
Class I_ 

Boo]c__„ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSOl 



Tourists may learn liou) raucli easier is fhe task 
of reaeliing the Great Forest than formerly, 
by consulting fhe foUou^ing impor- 
tant article. 



HE Adirondack Division of the New York Cen- 
tral AND Hudson River Railroad is the ideal 
route to the Great Wilderness of New York, 
and offers incomparable service to all the principal 
resorts of that delightful region. This Division is 
laid with 80 lb. steel rails, one-third heavier than those 
used on other roads, except the main line of the New York 
Central, and is therefore conducive to very safe running of 
trains. It has 3,000 ties to the mile, 400 more than used 
by other standard roads. The bridges are iron, of the 
solid- floor pattern, with one or two exceptions. Curves are 
avoided as far as practicable. Every device for the pro- 
j motion of safety, which has to this time been invented and 
successfully tested, has been adopted. 

The passenger-coaches are of the most substantial char- 
acter, having easy-running and riding qualities found on 
but few of the railroads in this country. All coaches are 
furnished with patent Buffer and Gould automatic couplers, 
Westinghouse Air-brake and train-whistle signal, the old 
bell-cord being discarded. 

Locomotives of the best and most approved pattern, 
both for freight and passenger service, are provided with 



11 ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the newly patented smoke-consumer and spark-arrester. 
The passenger-stations are of neat design, and constructed 
with a degree of taste displayed by few other roads. 

The Adirondack Special leaves New York City about 
7:30 p. M., dropping off sleeping cars at the prominent 
summer-resorts along the road, arriving at Malone at about 
8:00 o'clock the following morning, carrying express matter, 
the evening mail and New York City evening papers. 
Through sleepers run from New York during the winter, 
carrying passengers for all of the Adirondack resorts, for 
Malone and for points beyond. Now that these great 
health and pleasure retreats are opened to the public and 
reached by a broad gauge road, built without regard to 
cost, through sleepers will eventually run daily from Bos- 
ton and Chicago into the Wilderness, in addition to the 
sleeper and parlor car service to and from New York City, 
and also from Montreal. Suitable hotels have been erected 
with capacity sufficient to provide for all of the Adiron- 
dack health and pleasure seekers. 

The Southern termini of the line are Herkimer and 
Utica. At the former point connection is made with the 
main line of New York Central & Hudson River R. R., 
and also via Mohawk with the West Shore R. R. At Utica, 
connection is made with all trains on the main line of the 
New York Central, also with the West Shore R. R., D. L. 
& W. R. R., N. Y., O. & W. Ry., and the R. W. & O. R. R. 
Through trains between the Adirondacks and New York 
will run via Utica. The Northern terminus is Malone, 
where connection is made with the Central Vermont R. R. 



ACCESSIBILITV OF THE ADIRONDACKS. Hi 

for Ogdensburg and Rouse's Point, and also with the St. 
Lawrence and Adirondack Railway (a portion of the 
through line) for Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec. Via this 
route steamer may be taken from Clark's Island for a trip 
through the most interesting portion of the Rapids of the 
River St. Lawrence to the city of Montreal. Close traffic 
arrangements exist with the Canada Atlantic, Grand Trunk 
and Canadian Pacific Railways. 

Starting from Herkimer, the West Canada Creek is fol- 
lowed through Middleville, Newport and Poland to Tren- 
ton Falls, where it is crossed on the longest, solid-floor, 
iron bridge in the world (350 ft. in length) which passes 
over the stream just above Mill-dam Falls; thence to Pros- 
pect, from which point a branch runs to Gang Mills or 
Hinckley. Hinckley will be the nearest railroad point to 
the head-waters of the West Canada Creek, Morehouse 
Lake, Wilmurt Lake, North and South Lakes, Honnedaga 
(or Jock's) Lake, Piseco Lake and Lake Pleasant. 

North of Prospect the next station is Remsen where con- 
nection is made with the Rome Watertown & Ogdensburg 
R. R. At this point through trains from Utica and New 
York reach the Adirondack Division. From Remsen the 
R. W. & O. line is paralleled for a short distance, then the 
new road branches off to the north-east to Honnedaga 
station, from which point Honnedaga Lake is most easily 
accessible. This is the station of the Adirondack League 
Club. After leaving Honnedaga the railroad passes 
through Forestport to White Lake, which will be the nearest 
railroad point to the Bisby and Woodhull Lakes. North 



IV ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of White Lake station the railroad passes close to Otter 
Lake and crosses Moose River at McKeever station, about 
one mile south-west of the junction of the North and South 
branches of the river. The North Branch is then followed 
along the west side to "Arnold's Clearing," at which point 
Fulton Chain station is located. This depot is about 2 
miles from the Old Forge House and Steamboat Landing. 
From the Steamboat Landing a steam-yacht may be taken 
for the head of Fourth Lake through the Fulton Chain. 
The Adirondack League Club House on Little Moose Lake 
is between three and four miles distant from Fulton Chain 
station, reached for the present via Old Forge, First Lake, 
and carry. At the head of Fourth Lake competent guides 
may be engaged to make the trip in row-boats through 
Fifth, Sixth, Seventh and Eighth Lakes of the Fulton 
Chain, and the Brown Tract Inlet to Raquette Lake, a trip 
very easily made in three hours' time, and with four short 
carries or portages. At Raquette Lake, steam-yacht may 
be taken for Forked Lake Carry, or Blue Mountain Lake ; 
and via the latter Long Lake may be easily and quickly 
reached. 

After leaving Fulton Chain station the road still follows 
the Moose River, leaving it about five miles from Arnold's 
Clearing. The direction taken is slightly east of north, 
the line passing within about two miles of Big Moose Lake, 
which is in sight. Beaver River is crossed at Little Rapids, 
and the railroad passes close to Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (for- 
merly Albany) and Lake Lila, (formerly Smith's Lake) and 
about five miles west of Little Tupper, along the shores of 



ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. V 

Horseshoe Pond, and close to Pleasant Lake. Cranberry 
Lake and Rig Tupper are a short distance away and easily 
reached from Horseshoe Pond, the former by small boats, 
and the latter via carriage road. From Pleasant Lake the 
line passes around Arab Mountain, on the west side of 
which' the station is located for Childwold, the Childwold 
Park House being about five miles distant. This is also 
the station for Gale's Pond View House at Catamount 
Pond. The line crosses Raquette Pond at a point about 
two miles from the village of Tupper Lake, The station 
is located at Tupper Lake Junction, at which point the 
Northern Adirondack R. R. is intersected. Steamers ply 
on Raquette Pond and Tupper Lake, to and from the vil- 
lage, and Moody's, and the Tupper Lake House. 

From Tupper Lake Junction the line takes an easterly 
direction past Little Wolf Pond, and turning northerly passes 
Big Wolf, Rollin's, Floodwood and Long Ponds to Saranac 
Inn Station, two miles from Saranac Inn on Upper Saranac 
Lake. Connection at Saranac Inn is made with steam- 
yacht for Hotel Wawbeek, Rustic Lodge, Saranac Club and 
the Hiawatha House. Leaving Saranac Inn station the 
road runs eastward along the shore of Clear Lake (formerly 
Big Clear Pond) to Lake Clear Station. 

At this point a branch of nearly six miles in length 
leaves the line for Saranad Lake Village where connection 
is made with stages for Hotel Ampersand, Algonquin, Sar- 
anac Lake House ; also with trains on the Saranac and 
Lake Placid R. R. for Lake Placid, whence Concord 
coaches convey travelers daily to Adirondack Lodge, 



VI ACCESSIBILITY OF THE ADIRONDACKS, 

Mountain View House, Cascade Lake House, Keene Val- 
ley, Elizabethtown and Westport. 

After leaving Lake Clear the main line takes a northerly 
direction, crossing the Bloomingdale road about four 
miles from Paul Smith's Hotel, i6 miles from Meacham 
Lake, and about four miles from Bloomingdale Village, 
passing close to Rainbow Lake, to the west of Round Pond 
(Lake Kushaqua) paralleling from Rainbow the Chateau- 
gay Narrow Gauge Railway to Loon Lake, the station at 
this point being 3 miles from the Loon Lake House. From 
Loon Lake the line runs northerly, within a short dis- 
tance of the Chateaugay Railroad, near Wolf Pond, and 
thence in a north-eastern direction to Mountain View 
(formerly State Dam), where the Salmon River is crossed 
and followed on the east side, through the settlements of 
Owl's Head and Whippleville to Malone. 

During the season, excursion trains run to Trenton Falls, 
Fulton Chain, and also between the Saranac region and 
Malone, Montreal, etc. 



DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE 



TO THE 




(kAND OF THE f HOUSAND k/IKES) 



SARATOGA SPRINGS; SCHROON LAKE; LAKES LUZERNE, 

GEORGE, AND CHAMPLAIN; THE AUSABLE CHASM; 

MASSENA SPRINGS ; AND TRENTON FALLS. 



By E. R. WALLACE, 



EEVISED AMD ENLARGED. 






"^juNsiiesc 



ws0^ 



Containing Numerous Illustrations ; aJso^ Maps. 



SYRACUSE, N. Y. 
Watson Gill. 

THE AUTHOR, PUBLISHER. 
1894. 



CopyrlgM, 1894, 
By Edwin R. Wallace. 



ABBREVIATIONS 



USED IN THE 



ESCRIPTIYE f UIDE. # 



N— North. 
S.— South. 
E.— East. 
W.— West, 
r. — right. 

1. — left, long, or length. 
m. — mile or miles. 
r. — rod or rods, 
ft.— feet. 
R.— River. 
Mt.— Mountain, 
Pt.— Point. 
L. — Lake. 
P.— Pond, 
a. — acres. 
R. R.— Railroad. 

Dimensions of a Lake or Pond; e.g., (4 x 2) indicates 
a length of 4 miles and a width of 2 miles. 



IeNERAL ilVISIONS. 



I. 

The John Brown Tract, Oswegatcbie and Grass 
River Regions. (Pages 25-174). 

II. 
The St. Regis and Chateaugay Woods, and Sara- 
NAC Lake Region. (Pages 175-210). 

III. 
The Saranac Lake and Adirondack Mountain Re- 
gions. (Pages 211-338). 

IV. 
The Adirondack Mountain, Hudson River, Ra- 
quette and Long Lake Regions. (Pages 339-412). 

V. 

The Garoga, Pleasant and Piseco Lake Regions. 
(Pages 413-425). . 

VI. 

The Raquette Waters. (Pages 426-465). 

VII. 
Camp-Life, General Outfit, and Expenses ; Game 
Laws; Woodcraft; Hotel Directory, &c. (Pages 
466-508). 




MOONLIGHT IN THE ADIRONDACKS. 



'' The stag at eve 
Had drunk his fill." 



INTRODUCTION. 



The Great Wilderness of New York is generally known 
either as "The North Woods" or as "The Adirondacks," 
according to the view taken of its topography. The for- 
mer title indicates merely a wild, densely wooded district ; 
the latter, a region occupied by all the varied scenery of a 
most remarkable lake and mountain system. The one 
may have been the baptismal offering of a botanist ; the 
other of a geologist. We can easily understand how stran- 
gers, or the more sordid of the trappers and hunters, may 
speak of '''The North Woods i"^ but the more intimately 
cultivated tourists become acquainted with its wonderful 
diversity of characteristics, the more instinctively they 
think and talk oi^'The Adirondacks .'' And if our State 
authorities will but wisely take counsel of this increasing 
host, and continue the good work already inaugurated, the 
science of geography will soon add to its vocabulary, this 
euphonious designation of one of the world's popular 
resorts : **The New York State Adirondack Park." 
Foreigners will then find in the name itself — while perusing 
''''The American Tourist's Guide" — a suggestion of a fitting 
place for a few weeks' rest after their wearisome Atlantic 
trip, and of a happy prelude of thought and feeling before 
they visit the western prairies and the "National Yellow- 
stone Park !" 

*In the northern part of the State, and in the St. Lawrence valley, it Is 
called the "South Woods." 



XU INTRODUCTION. 

According to Hough, Clark, Parkman, Schoolcraft, and 
other eminent historians, upon the discovery of Canada, a 
powerful tribe of Indians was found occupying the northern 
banks of the St. Lawrence, chiefly between Quebec and 
Three Rivers.* It should be stated, however, that their 
dominions were not confined to the great basin of the St. 
Lawrence, but extended from the dark forests of Maine to 
the rocky slopes of the Pacific. From the French, they 
received the title of Algonquins, though the origin of this 
name is involved in obscurity. They were reputed at this 
era to be the most advanced in art, knowledge, policy and 
intelligence, the most distinguished for aptness and dex- 
terity in war and the chase, as well as the most populous 
of all the Indian nations of North America, not even ex- 
cepting the renowned Aztecs of Mexico. Golden, that 
great authority, speaks of -them as excelling all others. 
Their superior strength had previously driven the Iroquois 
from the country adjacent to Montreal. Their dialect was 
the softest and most musical known, which led the Iroquois 
to call them Sken-so-wa-ne^ "a bird that soars and warbles." 
They were tall, graceful and commanding, and in personal 
appearance had no peers among the aborigines. They be- 
came the terror of their enemies, and their unbounded suc- 
cess made them so arrogant that they looked upon them- 
selves as "gods upon earth." The Iroquois, however, who 
subsequently formed the celebrated "Confederacy of the 
Six Nations," were early noted for their skill, craftiness 
and stratagem, to which, in fact they owed their final rise. 
They again engaged in a long, fierce and ultimately tri- 
umphant war against the Algonquins, whom they defeated, 
and almost annihilated in a tremendous battle fought with- 
in two miles of Quebec. The spirit of the few remaining 

*Cliateaul3rlaiid affirms that Canada is an Indian name, signifying "a 
mass of huts." 




THE ADIRONDACKS IN THE OLDEN TIMES.— THE HUDSON, NEAR ITS SOURCE. 



BEHOLD the Indian warrior, whom a hand unseen 
Has smitten with his death-wound in the woods. 
Creep slowly to thy well-known rivulet 
And slake his death-thirst. 

— Byrant. 



INTRODUCTION. Xui 

Algonquins was broken, and in mortal terror they sought 
a hiding-place in the deepest solitudes of the New York 
Wilderness, which had always been their favorite hunting- 
ground. Here, goaded by deadly famine, and too weak 
and ambitionless to secure game, they subsisted for weeks 
upon the bark, buds, and roots of trees, and even the 
thongs of raw-hide forming the net-work of their snow- 
shoes. When reduced to this dire extremity, the Iroquois 
styled them, in derision, Ha-de-ron-dack^ "Bark or Tree- 
eaters," from the Indian words, Ha-des, "they eat," and 
Ga-ron dah, "trees." The French afterwards dropped the 
h and wrote the word, A-di-ron-dack (pronounced, Ad-e- 
ron-dak). Thus perished this mighty nation by the hand 
of a foe whom they had regarded with perfect contempt. 

The highlands of the New York Wilderness were first 
called the Peruvian Mountains by the early settlers, who 
believed that they were rich in mineral treasures.* They 
afterwards received the appellation of the Macomb Moun- 
tains, in compliment to Gen. Macomb. In 1842, Prof. 
Ebenezer Emmons, then State Geologist, bestowed upon 
them the name of Adirondacks and this title has since 
been adopted for the entire region. No more appropriate 
selection could have been made. 

The Adirondack Wilderness is a mine of beauty and 
of grandeur, and is justly the pride and the boast of the 
Empire State. Here is presented lake, river, mountain, 
valley and forest scenery in a combination so enchanting 
as hardly to be matched on the face of the earth. Al- 
though several railroads have pierced its leafy solitudes, 
large portions of the region, owing to their inaccessibility, 
will remain virgin ground for future explorers and sports- 

*Origmally In patents given witli parcels of this land, the exclusive in- 
terest In all the gold and silver that might he found, was reserved. 



XIV INTRODUCTION. 

men. Therein many a nook still exists, where, in perfect 
isolation from the shriek of the steam-whistle, and the 
world of travelers, the old-time way of camping out may 
be enjoyed. 

This vast reach of upland has a general elevation of 
nearly 2,000 feet above the tide, and its surface displays a 
gleaming labyrinth of lakes and lakelets, linked together by 
innumerable streams. By inspecting our index it will be 
seen that the waters of this pearly chain reach over 1,200 
in number, forming the most extraordinary net- work of the 
kind in the world.* 

Among the rivers that find their sources in the Adiron- 
dacks are the Hudson, flowing into the Atlantic ; the Bou- 
quet, Ausable, Saranac and Chazy, into Lake Champlain ; 
the Chateaugay, Salmon, St. Regis, Raquette, Grasse, and 
Oswegatchie, into the St. Lawrence ; and the Black River 
flowing into Lake Ontario, with their numerous tributaries. 
(See Index for Rivers.) 

That portion of the State of New York which lies north 
of the Mohawk Valley, is traversed by five ranges of moun- 
tains belonging to the great Appalachian system, which 
pursue a north-easterly direction and terminate at Lake 
Champlain. Their axes are nearly parallel, and about 8 
miles apart, though their spurs sometimes interlock, and 
occasionally the entire space is occupied by huge, isolated 
peaks. The greatest breadth of this mountain belt is 
nearly forty miles. 

The first, and most easterly range rises in the northern 
part of Saratoga Co., runs through Warren Co., and the 
narrow peninsula separating Lake George from Lake 
Champlain in Washington Co., and terminates in the pre- 

* This number may possibly be swelled to 1,400 or 1,500 by Including every 
tiny pond, or pool. There are many such which are nameless. 



INTRODUCTION. XV 

cipitous cliffs a little south of Fort Ticonderoga. This is 
called the Luzerne, Palmertown, or Black Mountain Range. 
The Hudson bursts through its rocky barriers near Glens 
Falls. Mt. Defiance, Black and French Mountains, and 
The Potash or Kettle Bottom are its most prominent 
elevations. 

The second range extends from Montgomery Co. through 
Saratoga and Warren Go's., traversing in its course the 
western borders of Lake George, and ends in the high 
bluff overlooking Bulwagga Bay, in the vicinity of Crown 
Pt. and Port Henry. This is termed the Kayadarosseras 
Range. Mt. Pharaoh, near Schroon Lake, is its highest 
peak. 

The third begins a little north of Johnstown, in Fulton 
Co , passes across the S. E. corner of Hamilton Co., 
through Warren Co., and terminates at Split Rock, near 
Westport. It has received the name of the East Moriah, 
and also of the Scarron, or Schroon Range, from the prin- 
cipal neighbofing body of water, Schroon Lake. Crane 
Mt. is its loftiest eminence. 

The fourth starts at East Canada Creek, in Montgomery 
Co., touches Hamilton and Warren Go's., and extends to 
Peru or Willsborough Bay. This is known as the West 
Moriah, or as the Bouquet Range, from the river of that 
name watering a portion of its base. Dix's Peak is its 
highest elevation. The other mountains of prominence, 
are Nipple Top, Giant of the Valley, Macomb, Colvin, 
Hurricane Peak, Boreas, and Camel's Hump (Noon Mark). 

The fifth and most important range, is more than loo 
miles in length. It begins at Little Falls, in Herkimer Co., 
crosses Hamilton Co., and ends in the rocky promontory 
of Trembleau Pt., near Port Kent. This is distinguished 



XVI INTRODUCTION. 

as the Clinton, or Adirondack Range, and divides the 
waters flowing into the St. Lawrence, from those that flow 
into Lake Champlain and the Hudson. The Mohawk 
forces a passage through its walls at the southern extremity, 
at Little Falls. The most elevated portion of this range is 
a remarkable circular group of many distinct peaks, includ- 
ing Marcy {Tahawus) with its altitude of 5,344 ft. — the 
grandest feature of the Adirondack chains — Mclntyre, 
Haystack, Clinton, Basin, Gray's Peak, Skylight, White- 
face,* Golden, the Gothics, Redfield, Santanoni, Saddle 
Back, Seward, Ragged, Wright, Cliff, Wolf's Jaws, Seymour, 
Snowy, Devil's Ear, Wallface, Emmons (Blue), Bartlett, 
Gore, Adams and Ampersand. 

It need not be said that all these chains pass through 
Essex Co. 

There is still another range, W. of the Clinton and Adi- 
rondack ; irregular in its course, less distinct and defined; 
terminating a few miles north of the Canada line. This 
includes Lyon Mt., Averill Peak and Owl'* Crest, and is 
sometimes called the Sixth Range. 

The Adirondack peaks are the most lofty and numer- 
ous in the State, and are far superior in variety and sub- 
limity to the famous Catskills. In average altitude they 
are but little inferior to the White Mountains of N. H., 
while they greatly exceed them in point of numbers. 
There are, it is believed, nearly five hundred in all, and 
with few exceptions, each mountain, has its lake, a feature 
generally lacking in the scenery of the ''White Hills." 

The rich forests of the region, with their dense and lux- 
uriant growth, though sadly encroached upon by the lum- 
berman, command the admiration of every visitor. The 

*Wliiteface, Seward, Eagged, Snowy, Blue and Ampersand, may toe con- 
sidered as outposts of this army of mountains. 



INTRODUCTION. XVll 

trees comprise, pine, hemlock, spruce, tamarack, balsam 
fir, cedar, balm of Gilead, maple, beech, basswood, birch, 
oak, ash, elm, aspen or poplar, black willow, wild cherry, 
ironwood, hornbeam, mountain-ash, sumach, black thorn, 
flowering dogwood, moose-wood, walnut, and others. 

Among the ferns, mosses, and flowering plants, the bot- 
anist will find abundant material for study, and will be 
able to collect many valuable specimens, especially upon 
the open summits of the mountains, where are found spe- 
cies which are absent in lower altitudes. Golden-rod, the 
Greenland sandwort and Houstonia coerulea, wood -sorrel 
with its delicate white flowers, dwarf-dogwood, meadow- 
sweet, and, above all, the fragrant white water-lily, which 
abounds in many of the lakes and ponds, are sufiiciently 
beautiful to attract attention from all lovers of flowers. 
(See pp. 8i, 82.) 

A list of the birds includes the blue jay, and the Canada 
jay, the chaffinch, pine or mountain-finch, and the grass- 
finch, or vesper-sparrow, the white- throated sparrow, the 
yellow-rumped warbler, speckled Canada warbler, and 
Audubon's warbler, the blackbird, bluebird, cat-bird, 
cedar-bird (wax-wing), snow-bird, and the humming-bird, 
the ptarmigan, bittern, chickadee, sandpiper, brown thrasher 
(Saranac nightingale, or hermit-thrush),stake-driver(yellow- 
hammer), whip-poor-will, rail, snipe, plover, kingfisher, 
woodcock, woodpecker, crane, heron, duck (goosander or 
merganser), mud-hen, Canada grouse, rufl'ed grouse (part- 
ridge), spruce-grouse, pigeon, raven, hawk, osprey, eagle 
and the American swan. But the feathered tribes are not 
largely represented here, and the almost oppressive silence 
of the forest is rarely broken by their notes. Yet, in per- 
fect harmony with its wildness, the mournful hoot of the 



XVlll INTRODUCTION. 

owl, and the weird cry of the loon frequently awaken the 
echoes in their lonely fastnesses. (See p. 378.) 

The cool and crystalline waters of the lakes and streams 
are inhabited almost exclusively by that gem of fish, the 
trout.* Shad, black bass, suckers, bullheads, whitefish, 
frost- fish, pickerel and other fishes are also found, but in 
limited quantities. 

Among the animals that hide themselves in the dewy 
depths of the green wood, deer and bears are still numer- 
ous ; the mink, muskrat, rabbit (hare), porcupine, chip- 
munk, and the red squirrel are plentiful ; the fox, raccoon, 
marmot (woodchuck), marten, badger, ermine, weasel, sable, 
and the otter are rarely seen ; and panthers (cougars), 
lynxes (catamounts), wild- cats (bay- lynxes), wolves, f and 
wolverines have been nearly exterminated. The moose 
and the beaver have entirely disappeared. 

The mineral wealth of the region is not inferior to the 
value of its forests. Many kinds of metallic and non- 
metallic deposits underlie large portions of the plateau, and 
the mountain-belt. The most extensive and valuable 
among these is magnetite, or magnetic oxide of iron. This 
is of superior quality, the ore being from 75 to 95 per cent 
pure metal, and producing steel equal to the best made at 
the Swedish and Russian mines. It lies in vast beds, and 
is mined successfully in several localities. The ore-beds 
of Jayville, Benson, Chateaugay, Palmer Hill, Arnold Hill, 
Port Henry and Crown Point, have proved especially pro- 
ductive. The Sanford vein at Adirondack Upper Iron 
Works is of the most remarkable character, surpassing in 

*Speckled or brook-trout {mlmo or saZyeZiw^s /07i«e?2a?/.s) andlake-tr out 
(Salvelimis naraaycusTi, or salmo-conflnis, or salmo-'''-A(ltron<3akus.") The 
latter is sometimes improperly called salmon-trout ; also "laker." 

tA large wolf was killed in the winter of 1893-4 hj Nelson Gary, of Long 
Lake. 



* 



INTRCDUCTION, xix 

extent any one, and perhaps all of the others named. It 
was estimated by Prof. Emmons to contain at least 3,000,- 
000 tons of pure iron. A limited amount of bog, or argilla- 
ceous iron ore, and specular oxide of iron have been un- 
covered in different sections. 

On the borders of the Wilderness, mines of galena (sul- 
phuret of lead), associated with blende (sulphuret of zinc), 
have been worked with good success, especially at Rossie, 
in St. Lawrence Co. Copper also is produced in that dis- 
trict, but not enough to render mining profitable. 

Gold and silver likewise exist in the Adirondacks, but 
thus far have not been found in remunerative quantities. 
It is quite possible that an abundant supply of these pre- 
cious metals will yet be unearthed, as it should be remem- 
bered that immense tracts remain unexplored by the 
geologist. 

The minerals next in importance, are, garnet, steatite 
(talc or soap-stone), and graphite (plumbago or black-lead), 
which are so abundant as to be a source of wealth. 

Here and there small deposits of Labradorite (opalescent 
feldspar), fibrous calcite (satin spar), chalcedony (agate 
and carnelian), and other minerals, valued chiefly for their 
beauty, are to be seen.* 



Batoingtonite, chlorite, Rensselaerite, Bruclte, apatite (phosphate of 
lime), calcite (carhonate of limes scapolite, Houghite, stalagmite, colopho- 
nite, aragomte, chondi-odlte, dolomite, ankerite, syenite, automolite, albite 
iy^i^-t® feldspar), muscovite (mica), ledererite (sphene), augite (pyroxene), 
sahlite (a variety of augite), coecollte (a variety of pyroxene), phlogopite 
a variety of mica), dysyntrlbite, anglesite (sulphate of lead), Arragonite 
(needle-spar), sulphate of baryta (heavy-spar), pearl spar, (crystalized dolo- 
mite), fluor spar, tabular spar (woolastonite), rhombspar, and calcareous 
spar, anthracite, peat, kaoline (porcelain-clay), water-cement, celestlne 
(sulphate of strontia), tourmaline, porphyiT, adularia (moonstone and sun- 
stone), spmelle, zircon, amethyst, jasper, sapphire, calcareous tufa, epidote, 
greenstone, idocrase, loxoclase (feldspar), sulphur, manganese, Epsom salts 
copperas, sulphate of barytes, rutile (titanic acld^, quartz crystals, horn- 
blende, with Its distinct varieties, comprising asbestus, tremolite, pargasite, 
amphibole, etc , and many other minerals are found, though not in suflficient 
quantities yet to be of any practical value. Upwards of 60 species of minerals 
have been discovered in the counties of Franklin and St. Lawrence alone. 



r 



XX INTRODUCTION. 

Gneiss, Potsdam sandstone, and hypersthene rock, black 
and verde antique, or serpentine marble, are extensively 
quarried at various places in the marginal territory. 

Agricultural ventures in the irreclaimable wilderness have 
never proved successful. This is sufficiently indicated by 
the deserted clearings, with their rude habitations, either a 
mass of ruins, or going to decay — pathetic witnesses of 
wasted time, effort, hardship and final disaster — scattered 
throughout the borders of the forest ! This region, from 
its cold and sterile nature, is absolutely unsuited to cultiva- 
tion. The hardy potato is the only vegetable that fairly 
thrives ; the garden, to yield a moderate supply of its usual 
products, must be well- sheltered ; and indeed, such is the 
poverty of the soil that no species of grain, excepting per- 
haps oats and buckwheat, take kindly to it; and grass, save 
that growing wild on alluvial lands, the *'beaver meadows," 
is invariably light. 

The entire Adirondack Region is one Vast Sanitarium. 
The pure and invigorating atmosphere, peculiar to high 
altitudes, is here highly charged with ozone, and is redolent 
of the healing aroma of the evergreens ; and, among the 
frequenters of the locality, there are numerous witnesses to 
its tonic power, which generally affords speedy relief to in- 
valids, and often effects permanent cures. Constitutions 
enfeebled by anxiety, over-taxation of the brain, and loss 
of vital energy, sufferers frofti dyspepsia, chronic nervous- 
ness, and some forms of rheumatism,* are usually restored 
to their normal condition, by a sojourn of several weeks or 
months within its boundaries. The climate is peculiarly 
beneficial to those suffering with hay-fever, and asthmatic 
affections, and the fame of the Adirondacks, both as a 



•Tlie writer was cured of muscular rlieumatism of two years' duration, by 
t liree weeks of camp-life in the Adirondacks. 



INTRODUCTION. XXI 

summer and winter resort for consumptives, is already 
wide-spread. Those well-known and reliable authorities, 
Dr. Alfred L. Loomis and Dr. Edward L. Trudeau, affirm 
that twenty-five per cent, of the patients sent to that region 
are cured, a proportion only equaled in the State of Colo- 
rado. Prof. B. E. Fernow states that it should be perfectly 
secure from the visitation of cholera ; and that, in India, 
villages surrounded by forests, are never visited by this 
dread malady, and that troops are always withdrawn into 
forest- stations in order to arrest the disease, which it has 
been proved is invited by removal of the trees. 

Tramping, boating, fishing and hunting, all so common 
in the Wilderness, with the resultant outdoor life, while 
they afford agreeable modes of physical training so greatly 
needed by Americans, especially those of sedentary habits, 
are remarkably exhilarating, and produce a marvelous effect 
upon the system. A summer-residence in this region has 
been found so conducive to health and pleasure, that people 
come from the most distant points in this country, and 
even from Europe, and frequently abide here throughout 
the season. 

There are weighty reasons, besides the considerations 
already advanced, why the forest should be preserved. 
The prevention of disastrous freshets, resulting from heavy 
rain-fall — the flood rushing with the irresistible power of 
an avalanche down the mountain-sides to the lowlands, 
there destroying property and human life — and the shrink- 
age of rivers owing to the failure of their usual water- 
supply, which would certainly follow the cutting off of the 
timber, are the most important of these. Enough has been 
said,by the public press and by eminent writers about this 



XXll INTRODUCTION. 

grave danger to render it unnecessary for us, with, our limi- 
ted space, to enter into a discussion of the subject.* 

The traditional divisions of the Great Forest are as 
follows : 

''^John Browns Tract,'' perhaps the most widely known of 
the Adirondack sections, extends across Herkimer County 
into Hamilton on the east, and Lewis on the west, and in- 
cludes 210,000 acres. 

^^The Oswegatchie and Grass River Regions'' are mostly 
included in the south-eastern portion of St. Lawrence Co. 

'"''The Chateaugay Woods" occupy a part of the western 
portion of Clinton, and the eastern portion of Franklin. 

*lNFLUENCE OF FORESTS ON CLIMATE.— Many rlvers liave totally disap- 
peared, or have been reduced to mere stre,ams by an liTational and heinous 
felling of the forests. In the northeast of Germany, the Narp and Gold 
rivers exist only in name. The classic lands of antiquity are rich in sad les- 
sons of deforestation. The springs and brooks of Palestine are dry, and the 
fruitfulness of the land has disappeai-ed. The Jordan is four feet lower than 
it was in the New Testament days. Greece and Spain suffer severely to this 
day from the effects of destroying their forests Many parts of the Kingdom 
of Wurtemhm-g have been rendered almost barren by the felling of the trees. 
I:i Hungary the periodically returning di-ought is universally attributed to 
the extermination of the forest. We attribute the present unfruitfulness of 
Asia Minor and Greece to the destruction of the woods ; steppes, ruins and 
tombs have taken the place of what was the highest culture. Sardinia and 
Sicily were once the granaries of Italy, but have long since lost the fruitful- 
ness sung of by the ancient poets. On the other hand, man can improve the 
condition of the land in which he lives, more slowly indeed, but as certainly, 
by cultivating and preserving the forests. In earlier years reliable authori- 
ties have told us that in the Delta of Upper Egypt, there were only ffve or 
six days of rain in the year, but that, since the time when Mehemet Ali 
caused some 20,000,000 trees to be planted, the number of days of rain in the 
year has inci'eased to forty-flve or forty-six. The Suez Canal has produced 
remarkable results. Ismaila is built on what was a sandy desert ; but since 
the ground has become satm'ated with canal-water, trees, bushes, and other 
plants have sprung up as if by magic, and, with the reappearance of the 
vegetation, the climate has changed. Fom* or five years ago rain was un- 
known in those regions, while fi'om May, 1868, to May, 1869, fourteen days 
were recorded, and once, such a rain storm, the natives looked upon as a 
supernatural event. (Facts recorded in the Vienna Neue Ereie Presye, May 
10, 1869, and in the English journals.) 

Austria herself has a very striking instance of a change of climate be- 
ing produced by deforestation and replanting. We refer to that stretch of 
miles of country over which the railroad passes, near Trieste, as you go 
from Austria to Italy— bleak, barren, stony, with hardly earth sufficient for 
a weed to take root in, a stretch of barrenness on which some dread anathe- 
ma seems to rest. It is a cm'se that rests on it called down fi'om Heaven by 
man. Five hundred years ago, and an immense forest stood on the ground 
where now is nothing but a sea of stone. Venetians came and hewed down 
the forest in order to procure wood for piles and mercantile purposes.— [For- 
est and Sti^eam.] 



INTRODUCTION. Xxiu 

^■'The St. Regis Woods'" embrace a part of the middle and 
western portions of Franklin, and the eastern portion of 
St. Lawrence. 

^''The Saranac Region,'' including the Tupper Lakes sec- 
tion, comprises the southern portion of Franklin, the south- 
eastern corner of St. Lawrence, and the northern borders 
of Hamilton. 

''''The Adirondack Mountain and Hudson River Regions'' 
comprise the horthern portion of Warren, and nearly the 
whole of Essex. 

^''The Raquette and Long Lake Regions" consist of the 
most of the northern half of Hamilton. 

^''The Garoga Lake Region" is included within the north- 
ern third of Fulton. 

''''The Lakes Pleasant and Piseco Regions" are contained 
by the southern half of Hamilton County. 

The area of these various sections amounts to more than 
3,500,000 acres, equal to a territory about 75 miles square.* 

Of this vast domain the State claims less than 800,000 
acres, in detached parcels, interspersed among lands pos- 
sessed by different individuals and associations. 

Into this wild region of lovely lakes, beautiful rivers, 
sparkling streamlets, silvery cascades, majestic mountains, 
charming valleys, profound gorges, and magnificent forests, 
we invite the reader's good company on the following 
excursions. E. R. W. 



*Tlils approximate estimate appeared In tlie first edition of this work, 
Issued In 1872 ; and now, after the lapse of 22 years, we are pleased to ohserve 
that the finding" of the Forest Commission so neaily coincides with our own. 
It recently reported, that after careful surveys, it was found that the Adi- 
rondack Region embraces 3,588,803 acres, of which the State owns 731,459 
acres. 



1 



^j^ F thou apt worn and. hard beset 
P^ With, sorpows, that thou wouldst forget ; 
y If thou -wouldst read a lesson, that will keep 
|j Thy heart from fainting and thy soul from sleep. 
Go to the -woods and hills! No tears 
Dim the SAA^eet look that Nature ^vears. 

—Longfellmo. 



f HE .IdIRONDACKS. 



THE PRINCIPAL AVENUES 



— INTO- 



The Great Wilderness, 



Krom Norttiern, Kastern, Soiitliem ainci 
'Western New York. 



DIVISION I. 



INTO THE JOHN BROWN TRACT, OSWEGATCHIE AND GRASS 
RIVER REGIONS. 

The different routes usually taken are those leading from 
Trenton Falls, Prospect, Remsen, Alder Creek, Boonville, 
Port Leyden, Lyon's Falls, Glendale, Martinsburg, Low- 
ville, Castorland, Carthage, Gouverneur, DeKalb Junction, 
Canton and Potsdam, all stations on the Rome, Watertown 
& Ogdensburg Railroad. From any of these points a few 

Note.— The Adirondack & St. Liawrence Railway, 

that marvel among railroad enterprises, also passes through Trenton 
Falls, near Prospect, through Remsen, and within 2^ miles (Forest Port) 
of Alder Creek. 



26 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

hour's journey conveys the tourist into an unbroken 
wilderness. 

First: — Trenton Falls. To this romantic spot the 
route is familiar to many of our readers. Easy of access 
(17 m. from Utica, and 23>^ m. from Herkimer), perfectly 
adapted to the requirements of the pleasure-seeker, and 
presenting a variety of charms truly enchanting to the lover 
of nature, Trenton Falls will ever remain a popular resort 
to those who would examine a multiplicity of natural at- 
tractions, with but little trouble or expense. Leaving the 
cars at Trenton Falls Station, we are conveyed by one of 
Moore's elegant Concord coaches to the. hotel (i m.; fare 
25 cts.); passing en route^ through a smiling pastoral district; 
fertile fields and gently swelling hills pleasantly encircling 
us, and murmuring streamlets sparkling brightly along our 
way, forming a fitting introduction to " one of the loveliest 
scenery haunts in all our picturesque country." 

West Canada Creek,* is the chief tributary of the Mo- 
hawk, whose Indian names, Te-uge-ga^ and Te-non-a natch- 
ie, signify, " a river flowing through a mountain." It is but 
little inferior to the main stream itself, and from its lake- 
dotted home in the wild solitudes of the Adirondacks, it 

*TMs Stream was originally known in the Indian vernacular as Komiedieyu; 
the word " Canada" heing a con-uptlon of that name, which signifies " heau- 
tlfui water," from its rich amher color. To this stream the Aborigines also 
applied the appellation of Ka-no-to, "dark hrown water"; and to the cascades, 
Datewa-sunt-ha-go, "Great Falls," and Emj-a-ho-ra, "fall of the glancing 
waters." Tradition asserts that in early days an Indian trail (a weU-worn 
path,) extended from the Mohawk Valley to the St. Lawrence, passing for 
many miles along the com'se of West Canada Creek ; and that the Mohawks, 
the most warlike trihe of the great confederacy of the Six Nations, evinced 
their admu-ation for the " Cascades of the Konnedieyu," hy adopting that 
location for a summer camp. 

The wi-iter deems it appropriate to give the Indian names of lakes, 
streams, mountains, etc.— often so peculiarly sonorous, euphonious, and even 
elegant— whenever they are not too harsh, and ill-connected, or almost 
Interminahle. 

Ye say they all have pass'd away, 

That noble race and brave, 
That their light canoes have vanish'd 

From off the crested wave, 
That mid the forests where they roam'd, 

There rings no hunter's shout; 
But their name is on your waters, 

Ye may not wash it out. 

Mrs, Sigourney. 



TRENTON FALLS. 27 

passes impetuously onward, characterized by foaming 
rapids, imposing waterfalls and occasional stillwaters— its 
branches nearly uniting with those of Black River — until it 
reaches Prospect Village, where through a deep, narrow 
and secluded ravine it precipitates itself in a succession of 
the most charming cascades, termed Trenton Falls. 

The walls of,this ravine are of fine dark limestone, gen- 
erally perpendicular, from 70 to 250 ft. in height, and from 
100 to 300 ft. apart. Thence — as if seeking rest after its 
mad career — the stream flows with gentler current for up- 
wards of 22 m. when it unites with the Mohawk ^ m. 
below the village of Herkimer. 

The whole line of its tumultuous passage, from the 
mountain fastnesses of the Great Forest to the foot of the 
Trenton defile, presents a most interesting variety of scen- 
ery; chffs, chasms and cascades abounding in delightful 
numbers. Its principal source, Great West Canada L. is 
2348 ft. above tide, and its mouth 380; so that in about 
90 m. it has a descent of nearly 2000 ft., or more than 22 ft. 
to the mile. From Prospect within 3 m. it descends over 
300 ft. forming six waterfalls of most absorbing interest. 
Besides these, there are several raceways from 10 to 20 
rods long, and from 10 to 15 ft. wide, through which its 
waters rush with great velocity. 

It affords immense hydraulic power, although but a small 
portion of it has as yet been utilized for manufacturing 
purposes. And farther on it will be seen (see Prospect 
route), that its upper waters, but little explored, constitute 
one of the finest trout streams in America. It receives 
Black Creek about 6 m. above the Upper Fall (Prospect), 
and Cincinnati Creek i m. below the Lower Fall, (Conrad's). 

Starting from the hotel to explore these neighboring 
marvels, we immediately enter a handsome grove, bound- 
ing three sides of the house, pass through a gate (entrance 
fee to those not guests, 25 cts.), and after proceeding some 
20 rods, the pathsides glorified by lovely wild flowers, we 
suddenly halt; for we have reached the brink of an impas- 
sable gulf, till now concealed by the luxuriant foliage of 
the arching trees. Recovering from our surprise, we des- 
cend five flights of stairs (with railings), securely attached 
to a nearly perpendicular wall 100 ft.. high. The chasm is 



28 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

here so thoroughly veiled by the bordering thicket — as 
though nature thus jealously sought to hide the attractions 
of this exquisite shrine from the eyes of all but her tru€ 
worshipers — that we receive hardly a hint of the wonders 
awaiting us, till we reach the very bottom of the ravine. 
Then, the spectacle so abruptly presented to us, is one of 
startling beauty and grandeur. We pause, amazed; spell- 
bound. Before us is disclosed a magnificent canon whose 
precipitous walls are composed of layers, and blocks of 
such singular uniformity, that they seem to have been 
placed there by masons' hands. Between them, over in- 
clined platforms of smooth flinty limestone the furious 
stream has carved its course. One's first thought is that 
the mountain cliff has been torn asunder by the mighty 
power of some earthquake; and these dark frowning bat- 
tlements left standing in their majesty. But the slow abra- 
sion has been going on through the lapse of ages by the 
agency of water, which in its constant action, beginning in 
a mere seam in the stratified rock, has wrought this 
marvelous chasm. 

Below the staircase (45 rods) we see the lower termina-- 
tion of the chasm, where we find the Village or Conrad's 
Fall (5 ft.). In the opposite direction, 37 rods above, 
Sherman Fall is in partial view. At the foot of the stairs, 
the stream is very narrow; not exceeding 10 ft. in width 
in the dry season, nor 20 ft. in the spring-time. From the 
staircase the route of the spectator lies mostly along the 
margin of the rushing waters, over a pathway cut by ex- 
tensive blasting in the face of the overhanging cliffs. Al- 
though this narrow shelf seems so perilous a passage, as to 
make the head grow giddy, for the careful tourist it really 
has no dangers; hand-rails and chains securely fastened to 
the rocky walls insuring perfect safety. Thousands of peo- 
ple, including many ladies,* pass yearly through this gorge; 
and yet, since the improvements were made no serious acci- 
dent has been recorded. The proprietors cannot be too 
highly commended for the excellent paths and stairways 
they have constructed, extending altogether nearly 2 m. 
Excavations have been made not only to provide safe and 

•Ladies should he sure to provide themselves with ruhber shoes and water- 
proof cloaks. 



TRENTON FALLS. 



29 



easy footways for visitors, but also to admit them to the 
best points of view; and thus the tour of the ravine is ren- 
dered more interesting and satisfactory. From some ele- 
vated places in the main pathway, frequently 15 or 20 ft. 
above the stream, the views of the rapids are singularly 
beautiful; and, as we pass along, we meet with many sur- 
prises, finding something to admire at every turn. But 
what impresses us most, is the primitive loveliness of this 
sanctuary of Nature. Utter wildness and sublimity reign 
supreme. 

From the foot of Sherman Fall the path to the summit 
of the wall over which the raging torrent sweeps, is nearly 
touched by the descending flood. Over this immense para- 
pet, the water — often decked with the richest hues* — pours 
its foaming tide (^^ ft.) into the boiling depth below; while 
on either side the dizzy crags rise grandly 150 ft. or more. 
This cataract exhibits its resistless might by its amazing 
excavations. Thousands of tons of enormous slabs are 
annually forced from the west corner, which receives the 
bulk of the torrent ; and such is the power and velocity of 
the stream in flood-time, that these slabs weighing from 5 
to 25 tons each, are sometimes actually swept through the 
rapids and over the lower falls, a thunderbolt of roaring 
waters ! 

Immediately above Sherman Fall, the stream widens, and 
soon we pass a boisterous, sinuous rapid, sweeping with 
headlong fury over hidden rocks, and claiming so much of 
our path that we are obliged almost to creep beneath a low 
projecting ledge. At this point people of all degrees, with- 
out regard to rank or sex, must do homage with bended 
forms before they are admitted to the grander scenes await- 
ing them. 

Emerging from this adamantine corridor, we reach an 
immense flat rock ; and our eyes are suddenly greeted with 
an enchanting prospect of the chief cascades, High Falls, 
40 rods beyond. We now survey a picture truly sublime. 
Extending diagonally across the canon, we see a massive 
rock 100 ft. high, doubly flanked by walls ascending 100 ft. 



* The peculiar color of the water presenting nearly every shade from amher 
to gold, is especially noticeable ; and in the afternoon sun the spray of the 
different falls is always tinged with the various tints of the rainbow. 



30 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

higher. From this majestic rampart the frenzied Kanata 
leaps first 40 ft. perpendicularly in foam and spray, the 
larger portion hurling its angry waters down the left hand 
side, while, on the right, a sheet like molten silver is dis- 
played. Midway for a space, this rock is untouched by the 
flood, and forms a commanding breastwork, as though 
planted there by Titanic hands to protect the more beaute- 
ous cascade from the rage of its violent neighbor. Uniting 
on the plane below, and gaining increased power by com- 
bined strength, the tumultuous stream — one mass of fleecy 
foam — abruptly dashes down a succession of giant steps 
(15 ft.) and with a sheer fall of 40 ft. plunges in an un- 
broken sheet into a deep, dark and spacious caldron be- 
neath. The lofty crags (including East Cliff), rise almost 
perpendicularly on either side, and stand like sentinels 
guarding the approach to this enchanted land. Here and 
there, feathery ferns, velvety mosses, tangled vines, dwarfed 
trees and the pretty blue hare-bell, cling with precarious 
foothold to the rocks, especially on the right bank, arraying 
them in robes of various tinted, living green. At other 
places these stupendous walls display no life, not even a 
tuft of grass. Gracefully reaching over the verge of the 
gorge, we notice a variety of evergreen trees forming, with 
their rich emerald shades, an exquisite fringe ; and high 
over all, in limitless space — a glorious canopy for so grand 
a scene — arch the etherial heavens. 

Opposite to and overlooking High Falls, 20 ft. below, — 
nestling cosily in the side of this mountain glen, and embo- 
somed in hemlock and cedar trees lending grateful shade 
— is the " Rural Retreat " (reached by stairs), a neat, rustic 
chalet, with a pleasant veranda, offering fine prospects, an 
agreeable resting-place, and various refreshments. Here, 
books and views of the surrounding scenery may be ob- 
tained. The situation of this " Half- Way House " is quite 
commanding, and very popular with visitors to the chasm, 
who always linger to contemplate and listen to the musical 
dashing of the waters. 

Pursuing our journey 40 rods farther, the ravine materi- 
ally enlarged and the Kanata broader, but quite shallow, 
we reach the peculiar cascade termed Mill Dam Fall. At 
this place the rocky battlement extends entirely across the 



TRENTON FALLS. 3 1 

Stream (loo ft.) and forms a smooth natural dam, producing 
the beautiful waterfall (14 ft.) so appropriately named. 
When the stream is swollen, numerous jutting points of 
rocks break the line of the fall, causing the water to descend 
in gracefully arching jets. The effect thus produced is the 
most fairy-like imaginable.* Here the banks have an ele- 
vation of 100 ft. Just above this spot, the iron bridge of 
the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (350 ft. in length; 
a model of engineering skill) spans the chasm at the dizzy 
height of 75 ft.; and from the windows of the passing 
trains is revealed one of the most wonderful landscapes in 
America. 

A short distance beyond, the Kanata suddenly contracts, 
and we immediately enter that wild realm of romantic 
beauty styled the Alhambra. We find ourselves upon a 
vast platform of polished rock, 15 rods in width (at low 
water) and 90 in length, completely fringed with cedar 
trees which veil the rocky heights towering heavenv/ard. 
Reaching the upper extremity of this superb cathedral of 
Nature, the culmination of this wondrous spectacle greets 
the eye. A Icffty rock shoots its naked length from the 
middle of the massive wall, and on its brow a tiny stream- 
let discharges its sparkling jewels in a perpetual shower, as 
though shed fromamagic sieve. Overshadowing cliffs dis- 
play their barren sides, occasionally enlivened by clumps 
of verdant shrubbery. 

At the left, down a broad stairway formed of successive 
layers of rock, the wild cascade of the Alhambra takes its 
silvery way, presenting a fine combination of the contradic- 
tory elements of gentleness and violence. Glancing up- 
ward through the sombre cleft with its many striking fea- 
tures, the scene is impressive in the extreme ; and language 
fails to adequately describe the weird and varied beauties 
here displayed. Mr. Sherman, in his neat little volume, 
*' Trenton Falls," edited by N. P. Willis, most admirably 
portrays the wonders of this exhibition. 

Resuming the ascent, and gaining the summit of the cas- 
cade, the wide opening here contracts, and we at once enter 

* It should l)e noted, that the aspects of these different falls are widely 
various, according to the condition of the stream. During the rainy season 
the dimensions of the river are greatly increased, so much so at times, as to 
render exploration of the gorge impossihle. 



32 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

a profound amphitheatre till now unrevealed. Its promi- 
nent feature is a majestic rock of great altitude, supported 
by a column of unique shape. From this huge, inaccessible 
cliff, monstrous slabs of strata have fallen, forming a chaotic 
pile of limestone at the base. 

A few steps beyond, is the first of a surprising series of 
rock-sculpture. This resembles a natural fire-place, as 
regular in its shape, as if hewn by human hands. Next is 
a notable example called the Rocky Heart, closely resem- 
bling the form which its name indicates. And near by is 
the curious perforation known as Jacob's Well, or the 
Potash Kettle. The water, by means of small granite peb- 
bles anciently lodged in depressed places in the rock, and 
kept violently whirling in seasons of freshets, has bored a 
smoothly polished circular hole, about 6 ft. deep and 4 ft. 
in diameter. Other similar pools but of smaller size, abound 
in various parts of the gorge. 

While the Alhambra is to many the crowning attraction of 
all the glen, the Rocky Heart is really the climax of this 
long reach of picturesque loveliness; and the tourist rarely 
passes beyond this point, as a continuance of the journey 
is attended by great inconvenience and some danger. Yet 
a few and even some of the gentler sex continue the explor- 
ation to the Upper Fall (Boon's Bridge), the termination 
of the chasm, 3 m. from the hotel. To make this excursion 
comfortably, requires an entire day ; starting in the morn- 
ing, dining at Prospect, and returning in the afternoon via 
the excellent road leading through the lovely valley of 
Cincinnati Creek. Those who proceed no farther than the 
Rocky Heart, are advised to return by the pleasant well- 
kept footpath which ascends from the Rural Retreat, and 
passes through the forest; as the scenery is always more im- 
pressive in going up the stream than in coming down ; and 
returning by another route gives more variety. 

The ravine of the Kuy-a-ho-ra affords an inviting and 
fruitful field for the geologist; for in the masses of rock are 
frequently found valuable specimens of organic remains, 
including the rare Trilobite {'^Isotelas Gigas,") orthocerat- 
ites, favosites, nautili, and many others. A large collection 
of these specimens, embracing fossils of great beauty and 
perfection, may be ins^pected at the hotel. The botanist 



TRENTON FALLS, ^^ 

also may here find ample material for study, as the woods 
and banks are interspersed with a profusion of wild plants 
and flowers; and the extensive flower garden near the 
hotel, with its wealth of floral treasures, filling the air with 
aromatic sweetness, wins the admiration of all. Rare 
plants, gaudy in the variety of their tints, and clumps of 
choice and fragrant shrubs brilliantly gay, flourish abun- 
dantly, some of which are vainly sought for in many a 
greenhouse 

Aside from the immediate fascinations of Trenton Falls, 
the vicinity abounds in delightful walks and drives. Among 
these may be named the following : First, a ramble through 
the woods near the hotel, which includes the " Lover's 
Walk," — a beautiful avenue of hemlocks— and along the 
margin of the ravine, viewing the rich beauty of the banks, 
and obtaining occasional glimpses of the white foam of the 
rushing torrent in the dark pass far below, should not be 
omitted. In fact, when the Kanata is so swollen as to 
render it unsafe to explore the bottom of the gorge, tourists 
take this route in visiting the High Falls, finding no less of 
beauty if losing much of its sublimity. Pausing at Car- 
michael's Pt. on the way, they obtain the best general view 
presented on this side of the stream. Along this wi!d and 
varied path, at convenient distances, easy seats have been 
placed; and while resting here, the reverberating music of 
the falls continually regales the ear. Next, by crossing the 
bridge a short distance below the foot of the gorge, and 
ascending the sloping elevations beyond, we are afforded a 
pleasing prospect of the surrounding country. The tourist 
should not fail to visit East Cliff, on the east side of the 
stream 2% m. from the hotel. It is perhaps the most inter- 
esting point of observation in the vicinity of the abyss. 
From this place the wild and entrancing splendor of the 
whole mighty gorge bursts fully upon us. The High Falls, 
the Mill Dam Fall, and the Cascade of the Alhambra, the 
Rural Retreat (nearly opposite), and Carmichael's Pt , the 
cliffs, — here bare, there verdure-draped, — and long reaches 
of the surging, tumbling Kanata, are included in the superb 
panorama spread before us. 

The drives along the banks of West Canada Creek to 
Newport (10 m. S.), one of the handsomest inland villages 



34 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

in the country; to Prospect, (2>^ m.) ; to Baron Steuben's 
Monument and Starr's Hill, near Remsen (lo m.); to Hol- 
land Patent, (7 m.); to South Trenton, (5 m.) ; and to 
Twin Rock Pond, (7 m.) — generally over excellent roads 
and through new, beautiful and constantly changing scen- 
ery — are especially enjoyable. There is a church at the 
Falls, and several at the village of Trenton. 

Trenton Village— formerly called Oldenbarneveld,* (Ind. 
One-ti-a-dah-que, ''in the bone ") a station on the R. W. & 
O. R. R., is pleasantly situated on Cincinnati Creek, 2 m. 
S. W. of Moore's Hotel. 

To sum up : Few resorts offer greater inducements for a 
short tarry or a quiet summer sojourn. The society is in- 
variably excellent. The hotel is not only home-like, but is 
distinguished for its luxurious appointments. It has from 
the first, been managed by men of unusual intelligence and 
refined and artistic tastes. f It has a frontage of 136 ft. and 
the veranda extending its entire length is 12 ft. broad. Its 
spacious apartments always scrupulously neat, are richly 
yet suitably furnished, and paintings and engravings by 
famous artists who have visited this spot, adorn their walls. 
The dining room is 60 by 30 ft., and the table, of such re- 
markable excellence as usually satisfies the demands of the 



* In honor of the patriot and statesman, John Oldenharneveld, Grand Pen- 
sioner of the State of Holland, who was heheaded In 1619. 

t To John Sherman, a grandson of Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence, and a graduate of Yale in 1T93, we are indebted for first 
hringlng to puhlic notice this favorite resort. This hrilliant divine, scholar 
and writer, and most estimable man, after filling a Congregational pulpit for 
twelve years, embraced liberal doctrines, and soon afterward (1805) accepted 
an urgent im-ltation to become pastor of the first established Unitarian 
church in this State, at Trenton Village. An ardent admirer of the charms 
of nature, the Falls immediately attracted his attention ; and he soon be- 
came owner of the tract embracing the most important of them. In 1822 he 
built the " Em-al Resort " (now called Trenton Falls Hotel), which he en- 
larged in 1825. His death, greatly regretted, occurred in 1828, and the monu- 
ment N. of the hotel marks his resting-place. Mr. M. Moore, a cultm-ed gen- 
tleman and merchant of New York, prompted by the reports that reached 
him of the rare attractions of this spot, visited the Falls at an early date, 
and being severely Injured one day by a fall while exploring the gorge, he 
was so faithfully nursed during his long confinement by a daughter of Mr. 
Sherman, that he became her suitor, and subsequently her husband, and the 
proprietor here. Mr. Moore was distinguished for his genial and urbane 
characteristics ; and after contributing to the enjoyment of his guests for 
nearly 60 years, he, too, passed away in 1888, to the great regret of numerous 
friends. The property, however, still remains in the hands of his family. 




MOORE'S HOTEL. 



TRENTON FALLS. 



TRENTON FALLS. 35 

most exacting epicure, or the invalid with capricious appe- 
tite.* 

Trenton Falls, for many years has been a theme for em- 
inent writers of this and other countries. George Wm. 
Curtis, Fanny Kemble Butler, Frederika Bremer, Lady 
Amelia Murray and George Combs speak of it with glowing 
enthusiasm. N. P. Willis makes the locality the scene of 
his pleasing romance, " Edith Linsey." 

"Trenton," says George William Curtis in his "Lotus 
Eating," " is the summer song of rest. Beauty and grace 
are its praises. You hear them from those who are either 
hurrying to the grandeur of Niagara, or from those who 
step aside to enjoy the music of the greater cataract soft- 
ened into an exquisite echo. The charm of Trenton is 
unique ; and in some choice niche of memory you will lay 
it aside, not as a sublime statue nor prophetic and solemn 
picture, but as a vase most delicate, and chased with pas- 
toral tracery." 

Those not desiring to penetrate the woods farther than 
Metcalf Creek, Jock's, or the Reservoir Lakes, and yet who 
who would find excellent sporting, regard the routes from 
Trenton Falls and from Prospect, 2% va. beyond — the two 
becoming identical there — somewhat desirable ones. 

Second: — From Prospect Station, on the R. W. & O. R. 
R., to Prospect Village the distance is 1 1^ m., while from 
the station bearing the same name on the A. & St. L. R. R. 
it is only }^ m. Stages meet every train on either line; fare, 
TO to 15 cts. This busy little manufacturing town is pic- 
turesquely situated on West Canada Creek, at the head of 
the romantic ravine we have just explored. The upper of 
the six cascades, styled Kuyahora Fall, (20 ft ) is in full 
view from Boon's Bridge, over which our route lies, where 
all will pause to survey and admire the romantic beauty of 
the spot. On the banks of this gorge, y^ m. below, is the 
Perkins House, a delightful location, where limited accom- 
modations are offered to summer visitors. (P. O. Prospect, 
N. Y.) At Bagg's Hotel or the Dodge House the traveler 

* There are two hotels under the same management. In the one more re- 
mote from the Falls, open to the public all the year, less expensive, though 
less elegant quarters may he secured. The larger house opens June 1st and 
closes ahout Sept. 15. 



36 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



will find excellent entertainment ; also the necessary con- 
veyances. All kinds of camping supplies, fishing tackle, 
ammunition, etc., are obtainable at George H. Worden's. 
From his great experience in camp life he knows just what 
the sportsman needs. Those desiring special information 
regarding the West Canada Creek region, may obtain the 
same by addressing him at Prospect. 

From Prospect to Hinckley's Mills, it is 2 m.; thence to 
Grant, 3 m.; Ohio, 5 m.; Wilmurt Corners, 4 m.; Ed. Wil- 
kinson's Hotel, 2 m ; "Griff Evans'" Hotel, 3 m. (the road 
branching 1. here from the main route); Wilkinson's old 
place, 2 m.; thence to Jock's (Honnedaga) Lake, 9]^ m. 
Total, from Prospect Station, 32 m. The road is in good 
condition for upwards of 22 m ; thence it has been so im- 
proved that travelers will not feel obliged to walk over that 
portion of the route as formerly. 




The Adirondack League Club Preserve lies south- 
west of Raquette Lake, partially in Herkimer and Hamilton 
Counties; embracing Townships 2, 5, 6, 7 and 8 of what is 



ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB. 



37 



known as the Moose River Tract, as shown in the accom- 
panying map. This is probably the largest private sporting 
reserve in this country; the forest lands owned by the Club 
in fee comprising 104,000 acres, while it has leased the ex- 
clusive hunting and fishing privileges of 75,000 acres ad- 
joining its property on the east and south * The average 
elevation of this vast tract, is 2,200 feet. 




THE LEAGUE'S PRESEKVE. 

To the oarsman and canoeist are offered endless possi- 
bilities for exploration and discovery. There are over 
thirty important lakes wholly or partially on the tract, in- 
cluding North, Honnedaga, (Jock's) Moose, Clear, Panther, 
Pico, Little Woodhull, Canachagala, Jones, Deer, Otter, 
Goose, Horn, Hardscrabble, Brooktrout, Spruce, Cedar, 
Twin Rock, Little Rock, Sampson, Whitney, Gull, the 
West Canada Group, Little Salmon, Baby, Caswell, East, 
Deer and Lily Lakes and Ponds; and also innumerable 
smaller sheets. Waterways, navigable to small cr aft, thread 

*Dr W. Seward Wel)b's grand preserve— .Ve-7ia-sa-we Parfc— nearly toucMng 
the northern houndary of this princely forest domain, Is perhaps equaUy 
extensive. 



38 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the forest in every direction. Doubtless many of these 
have never been followed to their source except by the 
birch canoe of the savage, while there are vast undiscovered 
forest depths S. and E. of Moose Lake, where the foot of 
the white man has never trod. Lower Stillwater of West 
Canada Creek is navigable within the boundaries from 4 to 
6 miles without a carry. Close to the northern boundary, 
and in fact partially within the tract, is First Lake, one of the 
"braided lakes " of the celebrated Fulton Chain; and one 
may paddle, with a few short carries, through this entire 
chain of Eight Lakes, into the Raquette, Forked Lake, 
Long Lake, the Tuppers and the Saranacs. Directly west 
is the preserve of the Bisby Club, a small and select sport- 
ing association of 25 members with which the relations are 
especially neighborly and cordial. 

This region has long been celebrated as a hunting and 
fishing resort, its inaccessibility having hitherto tended to 
protect both game and fish. 

The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railroad, con- 
necting with the Central at Herkimer, brings the edge of 
the tract within 9 hours of New York City. There are 2 
stations within easy driving distances of the Club houses. 
One of these is styled "Honnedaga" (22 m. from Honnedaga 
Lake), and the other "Arnold's" or "Fulton Chain." The 
other approaches are by wagon road from Prospect, Rem- 
sen. East Steuben, or Alder Creek, on the R. W. & O. R. R.; 
a drive of from 263^ to 32 m.* 

The Club was organized in 1890 by a number of gentle- 
men of sporting proclivities, for the purpose of establishing 
a game preserve in a chosen quarter of the Adirondack 
Wilderness. One of their leading motives was the desire 
to put into practice the system of rational forestry prevail- 
ing on the continent of Europe, which reconciles the pres- 
ervation and contiaual reproduction of forest areas with a 
permanent and increasing income. The experiment was 
undertaken under the most favorable conditions, (fully 93,- 
000 of the 104,000 acres being covered with a magnificent 
virgin forest of birch, spruce, pine, maple, cherry, cedar, 
hemlock and ash,) and its success has already more than 

* Remsen Is also on, and the otlier stations named, near the Adirondack 
& St Lawrence K. E. 



ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB. 39 

demonstrated the wisdom of the undertaking. Prof. B. E. 
Fernow, Chief of the Forestry Division of the Department 
of Agriculture at Washington, is one of the trustees, and 
the forestry adviser of the Club, and is in the active man- 
agement of its forest policy. A contract for the removal of 
the spruce above 12 inches in diameter at a stumpage price, 
already guarantees the Club an income from this source of 
^35,000 a year for the next fifteen years. This income, it 
is believed, could be increased to |6o,ooo a year without 
detriment to the tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and 
with positive benefit to the forest. Prof. Fernow estimates 
the value of the merchantable timber at a round million 
dollars ; which could be removed under the supervision of 
the Chief Forester, in such a way as to bring about the 
complete renewal of the lumbered portions in fifteen years, 
so that the process might go on forever. 

The plan of the Club contemplates a possible member- 
ship of 500. The price of a membership share is $1,500. 
Each share is unassessable and entitles the holder to an 
undivided five-hundredth interest in this superb property, 
with all its hunting and fishing privileges, to all dividends 
which may be declared, and also to a five-acre lot wherever 
selected, for a camp or cottage site, deeded to each mem- 
ber in fee. Most of the sites so far selected have been on 
Honnedaga or Moose Lake, where handsome cottages are 
being rapidly built. The Club House, formerly known as 
" Forest Lodge," and kept by A. D. Barber, Jr., is delight- 
fully located on the north eastern shore of Honnedaga 
Lake. Mr. Barber, who is a member of the Club and also 
its steward, furnishes Club members, their families and 
guests with excellent accommodations. Guides, boats, and 
all the accoutrements for hunting and fishing, are here ob- 
tainable. The entire property is owned by the Club. 

Another most attractive Club House, styled " Mountain 
Lodge," a model in every particular and costing nearly 
^30,000, has been erected on Moose Lake. (P. O., Old 
Forge.) This point is reached by trail from " Forest 
Lodge," (distance said to be 25 m.) and via Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R., from Herkimer to " Arnold's ; " 
thence by new road, 4>^ miles; or via Old Forge and First 
Lake. 



4© THE ADIRONDACKS. 

A fine hatchery, at a cost of $3,500, has been built on 
Honnedaga Lake where millions of fry will be annually 
ready for distribution. A Post Office has been established 
there, called '* Honnedaga," and the roads and approaches 
have been much improved.* 

Many of the members of this association are people of 
wealth and prominence in various parts of the country; (17 
being probably millionaires, 12 clergymen, and 4 ladies,) 
and the League, as a whole, has exerted a strong influence 
in promoting the enforcement of the game laws. 

The trustees of the Club are Hon. Warner Miller of Her- 
kimer, Mills W. Barse of Olean, O. L. Snyder of Buffalo, 
Judge Warren Higley, Judge Henry E. Howland, George 
H. Ripley, Wm. G. DeWitt, Henry S. Harper, Wm. H. 
Boardman, Robert C. Alexander and A. G. Mills (Prest. 
of the Club) of New York City, Rev. Dr. S. J. Niccolls of 
St. Louis, Alexander R. Harper of Philadelphia, Prof. B. E. 
Fernow of Washington, D. C, and Frederick G. Burnham, 
of Morristown, N, J. A handsome book containing maps, 
illustrations, and other interesting matter, has been pub- 
lished by the Club. Applications for membership should 
be addressed to the Secretary, Robert C. Alexander, 203 
Broadway, New York, or to any member of the Board of 
Trustees. 

Jock's Lake (6 x i), {ln6..j IIo?t-ne-da-ga, " clear water,") 
one of the chief sources of West Canada Creek, is a cres- 
cent-shaped body of water, framed in by densely wooded 
hills, margined by bold rocky shores, and presenting alto- 
gether one of the fairest woodland scenes in all that wild 
interior. It received its name from its discoverer, "Uncle" 
Jock Wright, one of the noted trappers of early' days, and a 
veteran of Revolutionary fame. It is sometimes designated 
Transparent, from the remarkable purity and clearness of 
its waters. We are glad that the owners of this liquid jewel 
of the forest have restored its beautiful Indian name of 
Honnedaga. For many years it has been a favorite resort 
of the angler, where salmon trout especially abound; and 
down the outlet % m. at Baby Lake, the hunter occasion- 

*Mr. Barl)er has been appointed Postmaster; a well-merited honor. 



NORTH AND SOUTH LAKES. 



41 



ally secures a deer. From the Club House a good carry* 
leads N. E. 3 m. to Jones L. {Vs x j{), a pleasant, hill- 
encircled trout pool. From the E. side, upper end, carry 
j4 ni. E. to Deer L., a small sheet set in a large marsh, at 
the foot of Panther Mt., where deer often graze. A short 
distance farther E. is Otter L., famed for trout; and % m. 
N. E. of that is a beautiful little deer pond styled Goose, 
and dignified, as the others are, with the general name of 
*'lake." Not far from the head of Honnedaga L. is Little 
Engineer or Hardscrabble L., a wonderful trout producer. 

From the Club House another carry extends S. of E. 3 
m. to Lower Stillwater, on W. Canada Creek, whence Long 
Stillwater and W. Canada Lakes are visited, i^ miles 
S. W. of Honnedaga L. is South Lake Reservoir; and 
2 m. W. of that is North Lake Reservoir ; , the first acces- 
sible by path and road, and the latter thence by road. 
These once pretty lakes are headwaters of Black R., and 
are termed " Reservoir " on account of their being em- 
ployed as "feeders" to the Black River Canal. The 
length of each is about 2 m. South L. is especially 
famous for fish, and what is remarkable for a North Woods 
lake, furnishes not only trout, but suckers, in abundance. 
It was once an extraordinary place for la^e trout, and even 
at a recent date, many very large fish have been taken by 
trolling. There are also some fine speckled trout, but they 
are not so plentiful as formerly. The increase to the flow 
line in this lake, caused by the dam, has interfered with 
the production of fish, as well as with the scenery. This 
is equally true in reference to North L. On the divide be- 
tween Honnedaga and South L., it is a very easy matter to 
get lost. It is said that more men get '* turned around " 
here than in any other locality in the woods. 

* A "carry," (Ind. Ke-wce-navt) is a path or trail, over wMcli portages are 
made. It should he rememhered that In this " Venice of America," nearly 
all the traveling is done by means ol boats, constructed of such light mate- 
rial (cedar or pine, weighing 20 to 75 lbs., yet conveying safely from 2 to 4 
persons), that they can be easily lifted fi'om the water and borne on the 
shoulders of the guide from one lake or stream to another. The accompany- 
ing illustration best describes the mode by which these graceful little shal- 
lops are carried over these forest routes. But these portages are very 
fatiguing, when made under the weight of all the paraphernalia of the camp. 
Along the carries, as well as the streams, beautiful mosses, delicate ferns 
and sweet wild flowers abundantly cluster, lending rich perfume to the 
mountain air, and grace and beauty to the woodland scenery. 



42 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The WoodhuU Lakes, sources of Black R., are visited 
from this vicinity by following good paths and roads ex- 
tending to them. Distance 6 to 9 m. From the upper end 
of North L. it is 2^ m. N. by path to Canachagala L. 

The route from Prospect to Wilkinson's also extends to 
the Piseco and Pleasant Lake region, as follows : — Prospect 
to Wilkinson's 16 m.; Griff Evans', 3 m. ; Morehouseville, 
4 m. ; foot of Piseco L., 10 m.; thence to L. Pleasant, 14 
m.; totaldistance from Prospect, 47 m. The road is most- 
ly in good condition, except that portion (9 m.) lying 
alongside Piseco L. 

HEAD-WATERS OF WEST CANADA CREEK.* 

To one weary of the tameness of " kid glove" fishing, a 
visit to the head-waters of West Canada Creek will afford a 
pleasant and exciting contrast. 

From Ed. Wilkinson's old place, near the Upper Forks 
(junction of E. & W. Branches of W. Canada Creek) a foot- 
trail extends about a mile above the mouth of Indian R.; 
beyond this is virgin forest, which has rarely been invaded 
even by the most adventurous sportsmen. Commencing at 
Prospect and following the winding course of this creek, we 
will find, perhaps, the most beautiful trout stream in Amer- 
ica. Leaving Prospect, we travel on the N. side, 2 m. to Gang 
[Hinckley's] Mills. Here, those desiring to go to Grant, 
Ohio "City," or Gray, must cross the bridge. But the 
former (N. side) is the better route to Wilkinson's; so we 
adopt it and proceed accordingly. Four m. farther are the 
Forks, where Black Creek unites with West Canada. Here, 
if so disposed, we may fish during the day, with or with- 
out boats, and after a rich day's sport, return at night to 

*It is generally estimated tliat the first waters of the W. C. Creek are found 
about 7iinety milea from its junction with the Mohawk River, near Herkimer 
Village. The several lakes that have received the particular name of 
"West Canada," are partially descrihed on another page. But it is 
claimed hy the hest authorities, Geo. H. Worden and others, that there are 
numerous W. Canada Lakes. Says Mr. Worden : " The Canada Lakes are all 
the lakes which supply the West Canada Creek ; and their name is legion. 
Thirty-five miles N. E. of Utica you commence to come upon them, and for 
miles the Wilderness is dotted here and there with lake or lakelet, filled with 
the speckled beauties, discharging their waters hy small hrooks or creeks 
Into the West Canada. I have fished in hoth salt and fresh waters in many 
different places, yet have I never found sport like this. West Canada Creek 
Is the home of the Silver Trout, the most beautiful of all the species." 



^^1 



WEST CANADA CREEK. 43 

Prospect. {A branch of the A. 6^ St. L. R. R. extends from 
Prospect Station to Hinckley s Mills ^ 2^ m.) 

Two m. above the Forks we reach Hess Rifts, where, if 
willing to wade, we may soon fill our baskets. Four m. 
beyond (12 m. above Prospect), is the Conkling Place, 
•where a small brook (*' Conkling ") flows into the Creek ; 
and from this brook to the ruins of old " Conkling " bridge, 
the angler will find superior trouting. Geo. H. Worden,* 
with a party of four, in June, 1876, caught over 300 fine 
trout in less than six hours of fly-fishing. 

Wilmurt Falls (50 ft.) lend additional attractions to this 
locality. From Conkling's it is 4 m. to the " Hunter's 
Home," Ed. Wilkinson, proprietor, where we usually find a 
dinner of savory trout awaiting us. Four Mile Creek enters 
W. Canada just opposite Ed.'s house. In the vicinity 
within ^ to I m. are 4 good trout lakes. From this point, 
some of our party, members or guests of The Adirondack 
League Club, propose to visit Honnedaga L.; so Ed. takes 
them aboard, and for 5 m. they journey on, over very pass- 
able roads, passing Griff Evans' Hotel (3 m ); then Ed.'s old 
place (2 m ). Just beyond this where they cross Big Brook, 
flowing from Little Salmon L., N. W.,t they strike into 
the Honnedaga L. road, and at the end of 91^ m. reach 
that lake. Formerly they did not ride far on this road 
before they were disposed to get out and walk, leaving Ed. 
with the horses to clamber over huge boulders and up steep 
elevations, over logs and through tree tops, until the 
novitiate stared with wide-eyed astonishment at the won- 
derful performances of horses and wagon. But this highway 
has been greatly improved and now affords a comfortable 
journey over the entire course. Some time after dark the 
Club House is reached, and Ed., after promising to see 
them again at a certain date, turns his team homeward, and 
in the darkness of night retraces the long 14^ miles. Next 
morning finds him ready for the next party. 

Those of us who remain, hire a cheap conveyance, also 
of Wilkinson, which transports us to the " Frazier Clearing," 

* To tMs accomplished sportsman, we are Indebted lor valuable Informa- 
tion concerning West Canada Creek. 

t L. Salmon L. (1 x ^) lies ^ m. W. of the road, 1% m. this side of Honne- 
daga L. It Is noted for the size and superior quality of Its speckled trout. 



44 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

(65^ m.) via Griff Evans'. Now we must bid adieu to our 
driver, shoulder our knapsacks, and falling back upon 
primitive locomotion, proceed more at leisure. A foot 
trail of 2 m. brings us to the Honnedaga Lake Outlet. Here 
in a good log shanty, with a spring of ice-cold water near, 
we take lodging for the night, — perhaps adopt it for a 
permanent camp. In the morning one of our party throws 
a fly into the Outlet and immediately fastens a fine trout ; 
another goes to the Creek, but a step distant, with the same 
result. In half an hour trout enough for breakfast are 
steaming over the coals, with the boiling coffee alongside. 
The waters here are literally alive with trout. Half a mile 
above the Outlet, upon the other side of the Creek, the 
Metcalf comes tumbling and sparkling down over the moun- 
tains from Metcalf L. Up the Metcalf 1 1>^ to 3 m. enter 
the outlets of the two Rock Lakes and Little Pine P., more 
beautiful than the pen can describe. One m. above, the 
outlet of Big Rock L. enters the Metcalf from the S., and 
perhaps ^ m. farther up, the waters of a chain of 6 small 
lakes, N., are received. Starting again from the Outlet 
shanty, we follow a trail for about 1 1^ m. to the mouth of 
Indian R., which enters the West Branch upon the E. side. 
Two m. up this is a lovely Stillwater, full of trout, and ex- 
tending over i^ m. At the head of this stream (4 m. 
farther) is Spruce L. ; not much visited, because hard to 
reach. If we are adventurous we will go there, and be re- 
warded by fine sporting and charming scenery. The 
Metcalf and Rock Lakes are more noted as hunting 
grounds, than any other part of this locality. From the 
mouth of Indian R., bearing mainly N., the trail can be 
followed by a ^<?^^ woodsman; if not such our compasses 
and the stream must be our guides. About 2^ m. from 
Indian R. shanty, we come to the 4 m. Stillwater, extend- 
ing the distance its name implies. Here are larger fish 
than in the stream below. Otter Creek, flowing from Otter, 
Deer and Goose Lakes, lying N. E. of Jones L., (3 m. N. 
E. of Jock's L.) discharges into this Stillwater, (N.). 

Above, we strike the rocky rift fishing, and we can walk 
for miles in the bed of the stream upon huge rocks, which 
lie so closely together that we will scarcely wet our feet. 
Small streams, probably the outlets of small lakes enter 



MOUNTAIN HOME. 45 

the Creek at intervals, mountains rising upon either side. 
We pass on the way *' Madcap Violet," the outlet of Gull 
L. [N.], and finally Long Stillwater is spread before us. 
Beyond the most poetic visions of the woodland dreamer is 
the loveliness of this crystal stream. No man can stand 
beside it and not feel the inspiration that moulded the 
character of Isaak Walton — moving him to mighty deeds, 
piscatorial. Above this not much is known. There is 
an extravagantly beautiful stream filled with trout, extend- 
ing a great distance, and very trying to weak knees and 
empty stomachs. If we go farther we are apt to get lost; 
so let us return while return we may.* 

Starting again from the Upper Forks we cross the bridge 
to the right, at Nobleborough, and following the East 
Branch 4 m., arrive at Morehouseville, a mere hamlet, 
located about 80 rods from the stream upon the S. side. 
Two m. N. E. of this, and ]^ m. N. of the main road, is 
the Sportsman's Home; well entitled to the name. 

Good accommodations are furnished here at very mod- 
ate rates; and the proprietor, T. C. Remonda, [P. O. 
Morehouseville, Herkimer Co., N. Y.] officiates as guide. 
This little hotel (to be enlarged soon) is situated near the 
edge of the forest, within 20 r. of the East Branch of W. 
Canada Cr. and at the base of the range of mts, rising N. 
of this stream. Majestic peaks lift their summits in nearly 
every direction. The Big Meadow Mt. nearly 2000 ft. 
above tide; the range S. of "G" Lake; also a towering 
pinnacle in the vicinity of Lake Pleasant, are plainly visible 
from the house. 

From Remonda's to Griff Evans's, where the road 
branches for Honnedaga L., it is 6^ m.; to Wilkinson's, 
9!/^ m.; to Prospect, 25}^ m. In the opposite direction it 
is 8 m. to Piseco L., and 22 m. to Lake Pleasant. One m. 
E. of Remonda's at the termination of the branch road is 
" Matteson's Mountain Home," now owned by an associa- 
tion of gentlemen of Utica, who maintain it for themselves, 
and for the public. Their forest park embracing 3000 acres 
where lies concealed the glistening silver of many a lake, is 

'Several interesting mountains rise near Long Stillwater, one of wlilcli is 
very rocky and precipitous . 



46 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

a most charming and interesting section of the Adiron 
dacks, though comparatively unknown to the general tour-; 
ist (P. O. Morehouseville). 

The East Branch from the Forks up affords excellen 
fishing; indeed this applies to all the waters above Wilkin- 
son's ; for any kind of a fisherman will fill his basket in 
from I to 3 hours. Upon the N. side (2^ m. from Sports- 
man's Home by road) is Wilmurt L., lying on the summit 
of Mad Tom Mt. 2700 ft. above the level of the sea, up 
which we climb in reaching this lovely trout-producing 
sheet (2 X ^). As this is private property^ none can fish 
here without special permission from the Mountain House 
Club. The outlet of this lake entering the E. Branch 3 m. 
distant, presents remarkable scenery through its entire 
course; first leaping down the mountain side with a fall of 
500 ft. to the mile, and anon rushing with great velocity 
through deep and narrow canons whose walls of solid rock 
rise 20 to 30 ft. on either hand. 

Crossing Wilmurt L. (i m.) we carry i m. N. W. to Snag 
L. (^ X i^) a pretty little pond, famous for its speckled 
trout ; thence i m. N. to Metcalf Creek, a cold, trout- 
stream; thence i m. N. to Little Rock L. {% x i^); thence 
}{ m. N. W. to Little Pine P. (i^ x i^); thence 2 m. N. 
E. to Twin Rock L. {^ x j^); thence 2 m. E. to Indian 
River Stillwater (Remonda's Camp); thence it is i^ m. 
by boat to head of this Stillwater ; whence we carry 2^ m. 
N. E. to the wildly beautiful Spruce L. (21^ x ^) 2,188 ft. 
above tide. From this it is 60 r. E. to Balsam L. (^ x 
5^) ; and 2 m. N. W. to the West Branch (trail) ; whence 
it is 8 m. N. (trail) to the first of the Canada L's. " From 
Spruce L. it is 12 m. S. E. by winter road to Piseco L., 
from which supplies are carried with team and sled to this 
sheet. Three m. from Spruce L. the route crosses Miami 
Cr., a source of Lewey L., and one of the finest of trout 
streams. 

From Remonda's Camp at Indian River Stillwater, it is 
^ m. S. to Eureka P. (j/s x ji), E. and S. E. of which are 
Cranberry and Deer P's, and " T " Lake. 

From Wilmurt L. it is i}4 m. E. (trail) to Big Rock L. 
(i^ X ^) which affords beautiful scenery, fair trout-fishing 
and good deer-hunting. Thence it is 2}^ m. N. E. by 



i 



WEST CANADA CREEK. 47 

blind trail over a mountain to Metcalf L. (2 x ^), discov- 
ered half a century ago by Col. Metcalf, the chum of Nat. 
Foster and Jock Wright. As an exception to the general 
rule, this lake contains no speckled trout. The outlet, 
Metcalf Cr., dashes vehemently down the steep slopes of 
the mountain, frequently wearing its path through ferrugin- 
{ous rocks and forming several picturesque waterfalls from 
I25 to 100 ft. high 

, Those who visit Sportsman's Home, generally fish in 
[Pine (r X ^) 5 m. E. (2 m. by boat and 3 m. carry), and 
|"G" (i X y^) Lakes, [r m. E. of Pine] upon the S. side of 
the stream and easily accessible. The former has 3 islands 
[and is a most attractive sheet. Farther up the East Branch 
|[8 m.] is a waterfall, 60 to 80 ft. in height, rivalling in 
beauty the more famous ones below. From Sportsman's 
Home to Spruce L. it is 12 m. N. E. by mere trail To 
j Morehouse L. it is 5 >^ m. S. E. To the Upper Stillwater 
Ion the E. Branch of the W. Canada, it is 8 miles N. E. via 
Fine Z., by tra-il. This navigable Stillwater — 2 m. long — 
affords capital trouting. Two m. above its head and 5 m. 
N. E. of Pine L., are the supremely beautiful Walton Falls, 
580 ft. in height, and affording with the wild surroundings, 
one of the sublimest spectacles the region offers. Midway 
between the Stillwater and the falls, are found natural "ice- 
houses," where,*between the numerous rocks, ice constant- 
ly abounds. 

Now let us return via Wilkinson's to the Forks proper, 
or junction of West Canada with Black Creek. It is worthy 
of remark, that none of the lakes which form West Canada 
Creek, neither any tributary nor the Creek itself, contain 
salmon trout. Not so, however, upon either side; for all 
the lakes of any size forming Black R., as also all those 
feeding the Sacondaga upon the S. E. abound with them. 
No good trouting will be found in Black Creek below 
Gray. The stream here is sluggish, falling only about 5 ft. 
between Pardeeville, i m. above Grant, and the Emory 
farm, 3 miles above that. This portion contains many bull- 
heads, dace, suckers, and a very few speckled trout. Above 
Gray we strike good trout fishing, both in the stream itself, 
the numerous lakes that compose it, and their outlets. 
The trout however are much smaller than those caught in 



48 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the West Canada — not so slim and silvery and with meat 
more red. 

Mount Creek, outlet of Mount L., and Worden's Creek, 
flowing with its 2 branches from N. Branch L., Mud, Wor- 
den's and Jerseyfield Lakes [2)4 x 2] enter Black Creek 
between Grant and Gray [N] * 

Two m. above Gray at the Alfred Bly place, we find 
accommodations, guides, &c., and are directed to excellent 
sport ; an hour's walk from the house taking us, in nearly 
every direction to superior fishing-grounds. Care should 
be taken in this locality to keep direct bearings, for the 
woods are cut up in every direction by bark roads, running 
generally in circles, which are well calculated to mislead 
the unwary. 

To sum this country up, the best fishing, as well as the 
most romantic scenery of all these streams, is to be found 
upon the Wes^ Branc/i of West Canada Creek. Here a 
man will form an attachment for the handiwork of Nature, 
which will never leave him ; and if his days should be pro- 
longed to even four score, he will revisit this place again 
and again in his dreams, and will find himself over and 
over longing for a chance to cast a fly once more upon its 
rippling, dancing waters, and to feel the tug of the spotted 
beauties at his hook. The house of Ed. Wilkinson is the 
magic key unlocking all these enchantments, as he can best 
inform you where to go to receive the greatest amount of 
enjoyment in the smallest space of time. Write to him 
and you will always find him punctual at every time and 
place. [P. O., Wilmurt, Herkimer Co., N. Y.] Here let 
us say that any parties desiring guides who can be relied 
upon for this whole section, and for thjir knowledge of the 
woods, their skill in cooking, shanty building, etc., will do 
well to write to '' Geo. Wright, Norway, Herkimer Co.," or 
to "A. E. Jones, Prospect, Oneida Co.," to meet them at 
Wilkinson's or Prospect. And those desirous of exploring 
the Easi Branch of the West Canada, or the neighboring 
lakes, ponds and streams, should secure the services of T. 
C. Remonda, who as a guide and companion, has perhaps 
no superior in the entire Wilderness. jBuf sportsmen visit- 

* Prospect to Grant, 5 m.; Gray, T m.; Mud L., 8 m.; Jerseyfield L., 2 
Total, 22 m. 



REMSEN. 49 

ing this section^ will regard the boundaries of The Adirondack 
League Club, as their preserve is private property. 

ROUTES FROM WILKINSON's TO THE STILLWATERS AND 
HEADWATERS OF WEST CANADA CREEK. 

[i.] Wilkinson's to Indian R. via stream, - 12^ m. 
Indian R. [mouth] to foot of Lower Stillwater, - 5 " 

Lower Stillwater, 4 " 

Rift between Stillwaters, - - - - - 3 ** 

Long Stillwater, - - - - - - 10 " 

Head of L'g Stillwater to ist Canada L.via. stream, 11 " 

Total, 45>^ *' 



1 [2 ] Wilkinson's to Honnedaga Lake, 

I Carry thence to foot of Lower Stillwater, 

i Lower Stillwater, ..--.. 

I Rift between Stillwaters, - . - - 

I Long Stillwater, 

Head of Long Stillwater to ist Canada L., 

(Or follow trail leading from WUson's Camp over a mountain, 6 m.) 

Total, 45 >^ " 

The latter is the favorite route. Good trails have recently- 
been made from point to point. 

Third : — From Remsen* to Bellingertown, 10 m.; thence 
to Dawson's old place, 7 m. ; North Lake, 5 m. ; South 
Lake, 2 m ; thence to Honnedaga L., 3^ m. Road, rather 
rough, but interesting, as for about r i m. it leads through 
a forest nearly primitive. Parties ride to South Lake and the 
take boats to the head, whence a road leads to Honnedaga 
Lake [i^ m] The same localities may be visited. from 
Remsen by the way of Prospect [2 m.] or via Wilkinson's 
[16 m ]. Travelers, at the outset, are -provided with suita- 
ble quarters at Hotel Bristol, Remsen. In fact, some tarry 
here for days and weeks, as it is a pleasant summer resort. 



^^y2 


m 






3 




4 








3 








10 




II 





* Remsen was named from Henry Remsen, Patentee of Remsenlmrg. 
5 



50 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In the vicinity is the monument of Baron Steuben. To this cele- 
brated Prussian officer, the Legislature granted, in 1786, 16,000 acres 
in the town of Steuben (so named in his honor) for his distinguished 
services in the Revolutionary War, He had spent his entire fortune in 
clothing the soldiers and gave them his last dollar. He located on his 
land soon afterward, erected a log house, and collected a colony of ten- 
ants ; but did not live to see his contemplated improvements carried 
into effect. He was stricken with paralysis Nov. 25, 1799, and died 
three days after. He was wrapped in his military cloak and laid in the 
earth, with his star of knighthood upon his breast. — {Fr, Gaz.) 

Starr's Hill is also near Remsen. Its summit afTords an 
admirable survey of Lake Ontario, and of a broad expanse 
of territory reaching into the great North Woods. Sea- 
shells have been found on the crown. 

Since the completion of the Adirondack & St. Law- 
rence Railway, Remsen has become an important point 
of entrance to the Great Forest. By this romantic line of 
travel, the tourist is enabled to reach conveniently the most 
charming and popular resorts in the entire region; includ- 
ing the far-famed Fulton Chain, Beaver River, Childwold 
Park, Tupper Lakes, Saranac Lakes, Lake Placid, Paul 
Smith's, Rainbow and Loon Lakes. From this line, also, 
may be reached by boat or stage. Long, Raquette and 
Blue Mt. Lakes and Keene Valley. 

Distances from Remsen to Ma lone ^ via Adirondack 6^ St. 
Lawrence R. R. 

MILES. 

To Honnedaga, ----- 4 

" Forestport, - ... - 8 

" White Lake, - - - - - '5 

" Otter Lake, . . . - 20 

" McKeever (Moose River), - - - 22 

" Fulton Chain, (''Arnold's"), - - 3o>^ 

" Big Moose Lake, - - - - 4'>^ 

" Beaver River, . . - - 50 

" Little Rapids,* - - - - 52^ 

" Ne-ha-sa-ne (Neha-sa-ne and Lila Lakes),* 59)^ 

" Bog Lake, ^ . . - - G^ 



* Ne-ha^sa^nc and Little Haplds arc private stations In Dr. Webb's Ne-ha- 
SA'NE Park. 



ALDER CREEK. 51 

To Horseshoe Pond (wagon road to LongLake,i6 m.) 72 

" Childwold, - - - - 79 >^ 

" Tupper Lake Junction, - - - 86 

" Saranac Inn, . - - - loi 

" Lake Clear (June. Saranac Branch), - - 104 

** Paul Smith's, . . . . 109 

" Rainbow Lake, - - - - iiij4 

" Lake Kushaqua (Round Pond), - - 1165^ 

*' Loon Lake, ----- 120^ 

I " Mountain View (State Dam), - - 132^ 

" Malone, - - - - - i45>^ 

I Fourth : — From Alder Creek Station to Alder Creek Cor- 
ners [Thurston's Hotel], % m.; thence to Forestport [Sher- 
man and Getman Houses], 2 m ; Bellingertown, 6 m.; where 
the route joins the one starting from Remsen, leading to 
I North, South and Honnedaga Lakes; or from Forestport to 
, White Lake Corners [Studor's Hotel], 6 m., a road diverges 
here to White Lake, i^ m. N. W.— [Hulser's Hotel]; John 
Landson's place, 3 m.; Woodhull Lake, 8 m. Total, 19^ 
m. (Herrig House; P. O., White Lake Corners.) 

Forestport and White Lake Corners are stations on the 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. Cincinnati L. and 
Otter L. (on same line) are a short distance N. of White 
Lake. 



Lying between the head- waters of Moose R., on the N., 
and the West Canada on the S. and E., are several exten- 
sive chains of lakes and streams finding their outlet event- 
ually in Black R. at the head of the State feeder, in the 
town of Forestport, Oneida Co. The largest of these lakes 
is the Woodhull, at the head of the stream of that name 
which enters Black R. at Forestport. This lake has been 
appropriated by the State as a feeder to the Black R. 
Canal, and through that channel to the Erie, on the long 



lUack R. (Ind. Ka-hu-a-go, "great or wide river") rises In Herkimer Co. 
and after flowing 108 m., empties into Black River Bay, at the foot of Lake 
Ontario. The wat(T of Its most important tributaries Is discolored by organic 
matter, iron, etc., giving the main stream an Inky hue, which originated Its 
name. Its head-branches nearly Interlock with those of Hudson River and 
West Canada Creek. 



52 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

level between Utica and Syracuse. It has been raised 20 
ft. by a dam at the outlet — a substantially built structure — 
and sets back sufficiently to take in what was formerly 
known as Wolf L. at the W. .end, forming now part of the 
reservoir. The whole sheet including Wolf L. is 5 m. long 
and has an area of 1,236 acres. The water of this reser- 
voir is never drawn upon except in the driest times. So 
great is its body, that a draft from the flood gates lowers 
the lake only about 2 inches in 24 hours. The lake once 
lowered to the flood gates requires 2 years to refill. It has 
no large streams for its source, the supply coming only 
from springs and small rills. Woodhull has long been a 
favorite lake for salmon or lake trout, and sometimes they 
are caught of great size. Wolf L. is noted for large fish. 
There are also speckled trout in Woodhull L., but they are 
generally in deep water and are not often caught except at 
baited buoys. There is a house at the dam kept by the 
reservoir tender during the season of canal navigation only, 
where accommodations may be found, but superior enter- 
tainment is furnished by the Herrig House near head of 
the lake. There are also camps on the N. shore occupied 
through the sporting season. From the Herrig House, on 
the same side, is a carry leading to the Fulton Chain. It 
strikes the famous S. Branch of Moose R. 1^ m. N., just 
below the Ox Bow, then passes W. to the river, near the 
foot of 3 Mile Stillwater, navigable for row boats. At the 
head of this Stillwater, the trail strikes northeasterly about 
2 m. to Panther L.; thence i^ m. N. to little Moose L., and 
crossing this sheet we strike an old path of ^ m. which 
ends at First L. of the Fulton Chain, about opposite Dog 
Island. 

It will be seen that access to Woodhull L. is far from 
difficult. From Alder Creek to White Lake Corners (8^ 
m.) on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway, the road 
is in good condition. Here turning to the E. it crosses 
Bear Creek, and continues 11 m. to the Woodhull dam. 
The larger part of this is a State road, generally kept in fair 
traveling order. The time of travel from Alder Creek to 
the dam is usually about 6 hours. 

A few rods below Woodhull L. [S.l is Mud L. [i<^ x ^] 
and a little farther [S.] Sand L. [^ x >^] both belonging 



ii 



HEAD-WATERS OF BLACK RIVER. 



53 



to the Woodhull Chain. Sand L. is also dammed up for a 
reservoir, setting the water back into Mud L. These lakes 
were formerly excellent fishing grounds, but the overflow 
has greatly injured angling. Lake and speckled trout are, 
however, still caught by diligent fishermen. 

A few miles below Sand L. is Chub L., having a long in- 
let of Stillwater. Here are some excellent spring holes, 
(and the lake itself has some speckled trout. Little Wood- 
jhuU L. lies S. E. of Chub L. Its outlet is the Little Wood- 
jhull Stream entering Woodhull Creek near its mouth. 
Little Woodhull L. is remarkable for its beautiful sandy 
beach extending around the lake. It was formerly a favor- 
ite resort of deer. Much hunting, however, has driven 
Ithem farther back in the woods. 

The next lakes of importance in this section are North 
'and South Lakes, connecting with corresponding branches 
of Black R. They are approached from the railroad set- 
tlements by wagon roads from Prospect, Remsen and Ald- 
er Creek station. (See pp. 35, 49. Si.) The distance to North 
L. from these places is from 20^ to 22 m.; and to South 
L., 2 m. farther. The reservoir keeper has a comfortable 
two-story frame house, with a pleasant piazza at North L., 
which by force of circumstances has become a hotel; ac- 
commodating a dozen guests. (P. O Forestport.) The 
road, especially the last 5 m., is generally bad. The dam- 
ming of these lakes has raised the water in each 20 ft., 
greatly marring the surrounding scenery. There are no 
game-fish in North L. except at the head, where enter the 
North Branch (really Black R.) and two smaller streams. 
Here in August may be caught some good speckled trout. 
Lake trout fry were put into this lake several years ago, 
but do not seem to have prospered, as no fish of the kind 
are taken. As the lake is mostly made waters, it is proba- 
ble that the foul bottom caused by the new flow line, is not 
favorable to fish development. Horn L., 7 m. N. E., is 
reached by trail. 

Two miles below North L, on Black R., is a Stillwater 
containing a number of fine spring holes. Here from the 
first of June to August is found good speckled trout-fish- 
ing. The fish generally are of good size and very gamy. 
Fair accommodations for a limited party may be obtained 



54 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

at Reed's, [Dawson's old place] on the road to, and 5 m. 
W. of North L. where Otter Creek enters Black R. At the 
road-crossing near this spot, is a spring remarkable for the 
coldness of its water. It is like ice-water, even in the hot- 
test days of summer. The spring issues from the bank of 
the river, and comes evidently from a source of great depth 
— doubtless some deep mountain gorge filled with snow and 
ice most of the year. 

From the head of North L. a trail leads to Canachagala 
L., 3 m. N.; and a road from South L. to Honnedaga L., 
ij^ m. N. (See p. 40.) 

Between the Woodhull waters and those of North and 
South Lakes, just described, is a chain of lakes lying up- 
wards of 2,000 feet above tide water, known as the "Bisbys." 
They were discovered by a hunter and trapper bearing this 
name. It is said that one day while on Woodhull, he 
heard the call of a loon, — such a call as this bird gives 
when on water, which is different from its note in flight. 
He followed in the direction of the cry, and found Upper 
or First Bisby (i x ^). Surely, he found ^'a joy forever" 
when he struck this charming sheet. Its beauty is a theme 
for the inspiration of poets. The lake is a prolonged oval, 
with high rocky bluff's on the N. shore, and several beauti- 
ful bays at the lower end. A few rods below, and separated 
from it by a short inlet only, is another lake of larger size, 
called Second Bisby (i^ x ^); totally different in contour 
and setting, but scarcely less beautiful than its lovely sis- 
ter, containing a number of wooded islands and several 
weird bays. Tumbling into this lake over a single rock, 20 
feet in height, come the waters of Chamber L. Nothing 
but this rock keeps the water from emptying out like an 
overturned bowl. Chamber L. is a sheet of considerable 
size, just showing itself at the rock outlet, and then hiding 
back in the woods. There is a Third, sometimes styled 
Rugged L., (^ X ^) and a Fourth Bisby, (i x i^) below 
those described, but neither have the beauty of the 2 upper 
lakes. The waters of the 3 upper lakes are cut off from 
their natural outlet at Third L., where the State has caused 
a dam to be built to turn the water through a ravine into 
Sand L. The natural outlet flows into Woodhull Stream. 
The remarkable feature of the Bisbys, is the peculiar 



BISBY CLUB. 55 

kind of trout they contain. They are a species of the lake 
trout, but quite different in form and quality from those of 
the other lakes in the Wilderness. They are long in body, 
with small heads and mouths, black-backed and silver- 
bellied. Their flesh is entirely white and of surpassing 
delicacy. They are hard and fiim, and have the best keep- 
ing qualities when out of water of any variety of the trout- 
family known. They run generally from }( oi a. pound to 
a pound in weight, and are very rarely of larger size. In 
1877 one was caught with rod and line, which weighed 3^^ 
lbs.; another 2^; but these were exceptional weights and 
may not be seen again in many years. The peculiar char- 
acter of this fish is attributable to the extraordinary purity 
of the Bisby waters, and the excellence of the food they 
contain. These lakes have hard sand or gravel bottoms^ 
and are supposed to produce some animal or vegetable 
substance especially adapted for fish food. The Bisby 
trout, except on a few days in the month of May, are 
caught only in deep water, at bouys baited with cut fish.* 
During the last 2 weeks in May, they may be taken at even- 
ing with rod and line, small pieces of dace or shiners 
being used for bait. They will not take artificial flies. 
Just as the sun disappears behind the western hills, they 
may be seen rising all over the lake. At nine or ten they 
subside into deep water and are not seen again till sunset 
of the next day. 

One mile E. of Upper Bisby, the peerless Canachagala^ 
(r^ X i) — lake of the green promontory and the rocky 
islands, situated almost up in the clouds — lies like a sleep- 
ing beauty in its mountain cradle, wrapped in a drapery of 
softest tinted foliage. The name is an Indian one, signify- 
ing "rocky lake, or rocks in the water." It lies in a ravine 
of rocks, the latter forming the most romantic surround- 

* A buoy Is simply a small log anchored in water from 40 to 100 feet in 
depth, Dy means of a stone and rope or cable formed of strips of bark tied 
together. Around this floating log, chubs, shiners, minnows, etc., cut into 
small pieces, are thrown morning and evening, for a day or two, producing 
a sort of rendezvous or feeding ground for trout or other fish. Afterwards— 
say 12 or 24 hours— the flsherman repairs to the spot, and after fastening his 
boat to the buoy, generally succeeds, with a long line and a large hook 
baited with a minnow, in capturing a satisfactory quantity of the portly fel- 
lows that have been feasting on the food he has furnished them. Care 
should be taken, however, not to overfeed the flsh, or they may become so 
gorged they will not take the bait. 



56 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ings. The lake is a tributary of the S. Branch of Moose 
R. The outlet enters this stream at the famous Canacha- 
gala Spring Hole, 5 m. from where it leaves the lake. For 
early fishing, this sheet has much repute. Its lake trout 
are seldom large, but are of excellent quality, and in the 
season are lively biters. The speckled trout, too, are 
numerous and gamy; though in the summer months they 
keep near the bottom, where they find plenty of food suited 
to their tastes, and seem little inclined to test the angler's 
bait. 

The Bisby waters and a considerable portion of those 
adjacent, have been appropriated by a club of gentlemen,* 
holding them by a lease from the owners of the Moose 
River Tract, in which they lie. Their lease covers 7,000 
acres and extends from Moose R. on the N. to Lake Can- 
achagala on the S., and by an L takes in the Bisby Chain 
and a part of Sand and Woodhull Lakes. It contains some 
of the best hunting and fishing grounds in the Wilderness, 
and being so accessible from the populated center of the 
State, is regarded as a very valuable sportsmens' preserve. 
The Club is incorporated. The membership is confined to 
25 persons, residing mostly in Oneida County. It is 
formed on the " Tontine " plan. There is no transfer of 
membership or interest, but on the death or withdrawal of 
any member, his interest passes to the company. The 
membership fee is $50, and this, with an annual assessment 
that cannot exceed this sum, pays all the expenses. The 
Club has erected an extensive range of buildings at the 
First or Upper Bisby, one of which is said to be the largest 
and best log house ever erected in this State.f It is 44 feet 
long by 22 deep, and 2 stories high, with a broad piazza 
extending across the whole front. Its sides and floors are 
all of hewn logs, and its roof, of shingles made on the spot. 
It is situated only 100 feet back of the lake and commands 
a water view to the head. It has a good landing-place, a 
large ice-house, and several excellent boats are at hand. A 
road connects it with the head of Woodhull L., (i}( m.) 

* Gen. Ricliard u. Sherman, ex-Sec'y of tlie Commission of Fisheries, a vet- 
eran woodsman, is Its President. The acknowledgments of the author are 
due to Gen. Sherman for important materials furnished hy him regarding the 
Headwaters of Black River. 

t The " Adirondack Lodge " at Clear Pond is perhaps, an exception. 




A. L. C. Ensign 



In May, 1893, the flag of the Adirondack 
League Club was raised over Bisby Lodge, the 
two Clubs having consolidated under the name 
of the larger organization. All the property of 
the Bisby Club was deeded to the Adirondack 
League, and the members of the former became 
members of the latter. The League has now, there- 
fore, three excellent club houses, Mountain Lodge, 
Bisby Lodge and Forest Lodge, each furnishing 
to the members a peculiar attraction. 

The Bisby Club conveyed 320 acres of land, 
containing their club house, hatchery, and the 
First Bisby lake, as well as their leases of 7,000 
acres more adjoining. (For Adirondack League 
Club, see pp. 36-48.) 

(56) 



58 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

are feeble and whose heads are gray, will recall with a smile 
and a sigh, the days when "Dick" Hurlburt, most genial of 
landlords, dealt hospitality with a generous hand, and 
when they told the story of their exploits by his blazing 
fire. Richard Hurlburt will never again give words of 
cheer or advice to hunter or fisher; but the Hurlburt 
House still remains, and under its present able manage- 
ment is as popular as ever. Parties desiring to have horses, 
guides, or rooms engaged, or any other arrangement made 
for them in advance, should address Hurlburt House, 
Boonville, or Forge House, Old Forge, N. Y. 

Sometimes a stage leaves Boonville daily for Moose 
River (12^ m.) where connection is made with trains on 
The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. 

Distances from Boonville to Raquette Lake .* 



Boonville to Moose River, 




> 


i2i<^ miles. 


Thence 


to "Arnold's," (8)^ m 


by 


R. R.) 


^1% 


« 




" Old Forge, (Fulton 


Ch 


ain) - 


2 


u 




Moose River, 




- 


^% 


<( 




First Lake, - 


- 


- 


154 


u 




Second Lake, 




- 


I 


a 




Inlet, 


- 


_ 


20 


rods. 




Third Lake, 




- 


I 


mile. 




Inlet, 


- 


- 


^ 


(( 




Fourth Lake, 




- 


6 


(( 




Inlet, 


_ 


. 


Vi 


a 




Fifth Lake, 




_ 


H 


(( 




Portage, 


- 


- 


^ 


(( 




. Sixth Lake, 




. 


'A 


(( 




Inlet, 


_ 


_ 


I 


(( 




Seventh Lake, - 




_ 


2 


(< 




Inlet, 


_ 


_ 


^y^. 


u 




Portage, 




- 


i}i 


u 




Eighth Lake, 


- 


- 


^y* 


(( 




Portage, 




- 


^% 


u 




Brown Tract Inlet, 


- 


- 


4 


a 




Total, (about) 


- 


- 


i^M 


a 



* Route, to Woodhuii Lakes .—Eooxi.\me to Hawkinsville, 3 m.; WMte lake 
Corners, 7 m.; Woodhull Lake, 11 m.; total, 21 m. Road good to Wliite Lake 
Corners. 



ARNOLD S. 59 

Several miles from Boonville, after ascending occasional 
sand-hills, the road enters a partially wooded region ; and 
when the traveler arrives at Moose R. (12^ m.) with an 
appetite sharpened to a razor-like keenness, by the joltings 
he has received while passing over the several patches of 
corduroy occurring on the way, he is ready to dispose of 
the excellent dinner that awaits his coming at the Hunter's 
Inn located here (Moose River House). The houses of 
the small settlement now called Moose River Village, 
were mostly occupied by the families of the employees en- 
gaged in the mammoth tannery of H. J. Botchford, located 
at this place, said to be the largest in the State, but which 
is not in operation now. (Road hence to Botchford's old 
Tannery, 15 m., from which it is 4^ m. to Otter Lake ) 

Moose River (Ind.: Te-ka-hun-di-an do, "clearing an 
opening") is twice as large as West Canada Creek, and is 
very rapid. The scenery along the most of its course is 
celebrated for its wildness and beauty. From its principal 
sources, the " North and South Branch " and the noted 
Fulton chain of "Eight Lakes," it flows from Hamilton Co., 
S. W. across Herkimer into Lewis, where it empties into 
Black River, just above Lyons's Falls. The Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R. crosses Moose R. a short distance 
above Moose River Village (McKeever Station). 

The angler might spend several days to advantage at 
Moose River, whipping that and the neighboring waters for 
trout. (Nelson's L. is only 2V2 m. N. E., on the R. R.) 
Below this point the stream is unnavigable, being broken 
by falls and rapids. But enterprising sportsmen some- 
times pass with boats in the opposite direction — by carry- 
ing around the several rapids that intervene — as far as Old 
Forge (18^ m.) whence they pursue their journey through 
the Eight Lakes and beyond. 

Those familiar with this particular route, will be pleased 
to learn that a bridge now spans the river here, obviating 
the necessity of fording or ferrying, as in former times. 
Reaching the N. bank the serious part of the excursion be- 
gins. The road hence to "Arnold's" (11 3< m ) has long 
been noted for its outrageous roughness; and probably the 
observation once made by Judge Stow of Lewis Co., that 
"this section presented such a forbidding aspect it would 



6o THE ADIRONDACKS. 

make a crow shed tears of blood to fly over it," had refer- 
ence to this abominable highway. But fortunately it has 
been greatly improved of late; so much so, that ladies now 
ride the entire distance on a "buck-board," (Phelps's stage). 
Some, however, still prefer the old-time mode of transport 
by pack-horses. It is stated by veracious witnesses that an 
increase of beauty and appetite is the invariable result of 
such a trip.* Two m. beyond the "Tannery" the branch 
road starts (1.) for Otter L Tannery, via Copper L. (2^ 
m ) and other interesting waters described in J^ou^e 7th. 
Another branches r. leading to "Jones's Camp" on Moose 
R., 7 m. And from a point about 60 rods beyond the "6 
mile tree" (one of the woodman's mile-stones used on this 
route) a path leads (r.) to the famous Middle Clear- 
ing Spring Hole on Moose R., i^ m. The same spot is 
reached from Old Forge House down the stream 10 or 11 
m. Only one portage of 5 rods around rapids, is required. 
When within 2^ miles of "Arnold's," by turning to the 
right from the road and proceeding 20 or 30 rods. Hell 
Gate Lakes, two secluded little ponds, 30 or 40 rods apart, 
may be visited. One mile S. W. of them lies another small 
lake; Wheeler's. 

The memory of "Arnold's" — long since deserted — is dear 
to the hearts of the members of the old Walton Club, and 
hundreds of others, who have enjoyed the shelter of the 
house. "The old Retreat has outlived its usefulness, and 
is now falling to pieces from gradual decay. Worms find a 
home in its rotting timbers, and horses and cattle find pro- 
tection from the inclemency of the weather beneath its 
roof. To what an ignoble use have these historic walls been 
dedicated ! How many merry gatherings have its timbers 
witnessed ! How many jolly songs and cheery laughters 
have its primitive walls re-echoed ! Alas, never more will 
its dumb sides resound the hearty jokes that went round in 
those early days when few drank in the beauties of this 
famous sporting ground." 



*The Adirondack & St. Lawbence R. K. crosses the Arnold Clearing, and 
iiowrenaers it unnecessary to take tJi is tedious journey; and it offers easy ac- 
cess to tMs famed locality. An omnlt>us from Old Forge House, 2 in. dis- 
tant; awaits passengers at this station ("Arnold's" or "Fulton Chain") and 
conveys them to that resort. Fare, 25 cts. 



"JOHN brown's tract." 6i 

N. and E. of it the country is as wild as on the day when 
Christopher Columbus shipped his baggage for America. 

It will be seen that the Arnold place has a history. In 1792, Alexan- 
der Macomb, a fur trader from Detroit, purchased of the State of New 
York, 3,670,715 acres of land for which he agreed to pay about seven- 
teen cents an acre. This purchase embraced a large portion of Herki- 
mer, a small part of Hamilton, and nearly the whole of Lewis, Jeffer- 
son, St. Lawrence and Franklin counties. Wm. Constable and Daniel 
McCormick were equally interested with Macomb in this purchase. 
Soon after this grant was secured, Macomb becoming insolvent from his 
losses in the "Million Bank" speculation. Constable became the princi- 
pal owner of this vast tract. Aaron Burr was indirectly interested in 
this operation and according to Dr. Hough, the means he took to get 
released from Constable showed him to be a polished scoundrel. 

In 1794, Jas. Greenleaf bought 210,000 acres of this land which he 
was obliged to mortgage within a year to Philip Livingston for $38,000. 
Subsequently he gave a second mortgage to other parties, including 
John Brown, a wealthy merchant and capitalist of Providence, R. I.'^ 
In 1798, Greenleaf, having utterly failed to make the proper payments, 
the foreclosure of the first mortgage occurred, and the entire tract was 
struck off at the sale to John Brown for $80,000, thus costing him about 
38 cents an acre. "John Brown's Tract" was long popularly regarded 
as the whole New York Wilderness; whereas it comprises only about 
Y^Y part of that region. Superficially it is 18 miles square audit lies 
mostly in Herkimer, though it reaches into Lewis and touches Hamil- 
ton county. John Brown first visited his forest estate in 1799, when he 
had it surveyed and divided into 8 townships named as follows: No. i. 
Industry; 2, Enterprise; 3. Perseverance; 4, Unanimity; 5, Frugality; 
6, Sobriety; 7, Economy; 8, Regularity. It has been said that all these 
social virtues are needed for the settlement of this region. Brown also 
then made a clearing at No. 7, (Old Forge) to which he opened three 
roads, (one leading from Remsen, another from Boonville, and a third 
from High [Lyons'] Falls,) erected a saw and grist-mill and a few log 
houses, one of which was immediately occupied by his agent and his 
family. Brown continued to make annual visits to his tract — though 
these journeys over the rough roads were toilsome enough — till 1803, 
when his death occurred. But little, at this date, had been accom- 
plished in the way of improving these wild lands. 

In 1812, Charles F. Herreshoff, a son-in-law of John Brown, a hand- 
some and accomplished gentleman, went to the tract, full of visionary 
schemes of founding a magnificent colonial estate, declaring he would 
settle the same or settle himself. The sequel proved that he did the lat- 
ter. He proceeded with commendable enterprise to repair the mills his 
father-in-law had built, to clear nearly 2,000 acres, and re-open the 
roads to the settlements; and he induced 30 or 40 families to locate on 
what he called The Manor. He established a sheep farm and stocked 
it with 300 of the choicest merinos and some high blooded cattle. This, 

* Tills name should not Ibe taken for that of the slave liherator, John 
Brown, of Harper's Ferry renown. 



62 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

his first project, proved a failure. He next opened a mine, erected 
huge smelting works, and in process of time succeeded in manufactur- 
ing a ton of iron of good quality which cost him one doUai a pound ! 
Here for seven years he remained, expending large sums of money in 
prospecting for iron and making improvements which brought him no 
productive returns. Finally, when his fortune was entirely exhausted, 
he drew upon his friends in Providence where his wife still remained, 
for more funds to enable him to continue his operations. The draft was 
dishonored; and stung with mortification and disappointment over the 
result of his unfortunate ventures, and in view of the utter ruin before 
him, he committed suicide. It is said that the day before his death he 
made preparations for going to Providence, and gave particular orders 
for his men to go out the next morning after he left and fill up a large 
hole that had been dug for ore. Before commencing their labor, one of 
them went down to see if any tools had been left ; and at the bottom he 
found Herreshoff who had secreted himself there for the purpose of be- 
ing buried alive ! The next day, Dec. 19th, 18 19, he accomplished his 
object by a pistol shot. 

Soon after this tragic occurrence, the settlement was entirelv deserted 
and the improvements went rapidly to decay; though the land was held 
by the Brown family till about 1850, when it was purchased by Lyman 
R. Lyons and others.* In 1832, Nat. Foster, the redoubtable trapper 
and hunter, leased the Herreshoff mansion and occupied it with his family 
for three or four years. Near him dwelt an Indian hunter by the name 
of Peter Waters, (familiarly called Drid) with whom he frequently quar- 
reled. As he was passing up the stream one day in a canoe, at a place 
since called Indian Point, just below First Lake, Foster waylaid and 
shot him dead. For this murder he was tried, but acquitted on the 
plea that the act was committed in self-defence, (?) the Indian having re- 
peatedly threatened his life. Uncle Nat. immediately removed to an- 
other locality. 

Another hunter, Otis Arnold, with his wife and one child, took pos- 
session of this lonely forest home in 1838. Here for 30 years he kept 
the place as a kind of farm-hostelry; rearing in the meantime a large 
family of children, some of whom became famous guides. But this 
fated locality was destined again to be the scene of a dire tragedy. In 
Sept, 1868, Arnold became involved in a desperate quarrel in his house 
with a guide named James Short, of Warrensburg. Frenzied with an- 
ger, he suddenly seized his gun and discharged it with fatal effect, Short 
dying 5 hours afterwards. Instantly overwhelmed with the keenest re- 
morse, the wretched man proceeded to Nick's Lake (named after 
"Trapper Nick"), J}4 va. distant, and after filling his pockets with 
stones and fastening a large one to his neck, entered a boat, paddled to 
the upper center, and cast himself into its depths, thus ending his life. 
In justice to the memory of Otis Arnold, it should be stated that until 
this hapless incident occurred he had led a spotless life; and many still 
remember him as a man of the most generous impulses, though doubt- 
less' possessed of a fiery temper. Should we not then be charitable in 
judging this ill-fated man, who never harmed a single fellow creature 

* Lyons bouglit 60,000 acres. See Lyons Falls ; Route Seventh. 



THE OLD FORGE. 63 

until in a fit of ungovernable rage, he committed this unpremeditated 
homicide ?* 

His son, Ed. N. Arnold, continued to run the house as a sportsman's 
hotel till its abandonment many years since. 

From "Arnold's" the tourist may either follow the smooth 
and pleasant road to the Forge (2 m.) or proceed 50 or 
60 rods E. to Moose River, and gain the same point by 
boat (41^ m.). 

From the old bridge where the road crosses the river, ^ 
m. beyond "Arnold's," a good portage extends i m. S. E. 
to Nick's Lake, one of the prettiest sheets in these woods. 
It is only about i^ m. long, but its shores are so serrated 
with bays and promontories, that it is some 6 m. around it. 
Trout are plentiful in its waters, which empty into Moose 
River. Its east inlet flows from a charming little pond, 
hardly three boat-lengths distant. Two and a half miles 
S. of Nick's L. is another beautiful lochan, called Rock 
Pond; well supplied with speckled trout. Above the 
bridge i^ m. the N. Branch enters the river, 1. By di- 
verging from the main stream and following this branch for 
about 2}^ m. {ij4 m. from "Arnold's" by path,) the "In- 
dian Spring Hole," a celebrated trout resort is reached. 
Gibbs' Lake, lying i J^ m. farther N. is accessible from it 
by path. 

From that it is 3 m. N. (blazed linef) to Lower Safford 
L.; and i^ m. S. E. (line) to North Branch, from which 
it is i}4 m. to Old Forge. Gibbs' L. has furnished great 
catches of trout. There are nearly a dozen nameless ponds 
lying between Old Forge and the course of the North 
Branch. 

At Old Forge, on a slight elevation that slopes gradually 
to the water — an extended reach of which it overlooks — 
stands the large and commodious Forge House. When 
tourists are reminded that they are here afforded 10 or 12 
m. of boating in either direction ; that they can descend 

* Tlie story of Arnold's suicide was doubted by some, wlio professed to be- 
lieve lie lived many years afterwards. We do not give this credence. 

t A "blazed line" in tne nomenclature of tlie woods, is a route throug-b the 
pathless forest indicated by marked trees. A broad chip having been cut 
with the ax or hatchet from conspicuous trees on both of the inner sides of 
our course within every rod or two, the white surface thus exposed instant- 
ly catches the eye as we pass along, and if sufficiently observing, we will 
have no difficulty in keeping the proper route. 



64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Moose River 10 or 11 m. before they encounter any 
serious falls or rapids ; or can pass upwards from one beau- 
tiful lake to another, until the farther extremity of Fourth 
Lake is reached ; and 12 delightful miles can be traveled 
without a single interruption to the even tenor of their 
meditations of a wearisome carry, none will fail to pro- 
nounce this location a most appropriate one for a forest 
inn. Ladies, especially, will note its superior attractions 
as a summer resort. The steam yacht Fulton makes 2 
trips daily through the first four lakes, landing at the dif- 
ferent private and public camps located on their shores. 
Fare, $1.00. 

From the Forge House it is i ^ m. N. W. fair carry, to 
North Branch. Here we strike the Gibbs's clearing, 
whence it is i^ m. N. W. (marked line) to Gibbs's L. (^ 
X ^). In this wild place, when the Forge was in full blast, 
Mr. Gibbs located and undertook to wring a livelihood 
from the soil. But he soon found that there was nothing 
to encourage agricultural development ; for with the excep- 
tion of potatoes and oats, nothing as food for man or beast 
could be produced. And such has been the experience of 
nearly all who have attempted to settle in the Great Wil- 
derness. 

From this point it is 2 rn. up the N. Branch (stillwater) 
to the noted Gibbs's Spring Hole, N. side. From here up 
the stream to First L. (N. Branch) it is about 8 m. Boating 
is very difficult, as we must carry over or around some 25 
flood-jams on the route. But the enterprising angler who 
makes the trip will be rewarded by some of the most re- 
markable trouting that the region affords. 

From Gibbs's clearing it is 3 m. down the stream to In- 
dian Spring Hole, before noted. This is where a little 
stream discharges its icy waters into the river on the N. 
side. Barrels of trout have been seen in this wonderful 
pool at one time — even lying in tiers. Hence down the 
N. Branch (encountering a portage of 30 rods around the 
falls, just below Indian Spring Hole) it is 2>^ m. to the 
main stream (Middle Branch) up which it is 2 m. to Old 
Forge. Parties going up the river from "Jones's. Camp" 
(Minnehaha ; on Moose R. 8 m. above Moose River Vil- 



THE EIGHT LAKES. 65 

lage) to Fulton Chain, must carry 60 rods around the 
rapids and dam at Old Forge. 

Two authors of Adirondack books, whose works on this 
subject we have perused with great pleasure, allude to 
John Brown's Tract in terms of exaggerated severity. One 
speaks of it as "the most repulsive portion of the entire re- 
gion." To say the least, the expression was carelessly 
chosen. While it is true that the scenery of the western 
portion of the Wilderness is inferior in mountain grandeur 
to that of the eastern side, yet its more numerous gleaming 
waters display equally enchanting attractions. Where with- 
in the limits of the Adirondacks can be found a brighter 
array of glittering links than the Fulton Chain ?* Where a 
more lovely sheet than Lake Lila or the ideal Canachagala } 
Headley manifested his true appreciation of this section 
when he wrote the following: — 

"The Eight Lakes are connected by streams, and form a 
group of surpassing beauty. They vary, both in size and 
shape, each with a different frame-work of hills, and the 
change is ever from beauty to beauty. 

"There they repose like a bright chain in the forest, the 
links connected by silver bars. You row slowly through 
one to its outlet, and then entering a clear stream over- 
hung with bushes, or fringed with lofty trees, seem to be 
suddenly absorbed by the wilderness. At length, however, 
you emerge as from a cavern, and lo! an untroubled lake, with 
all its variations of coasts, timber and islands, greets the eye. 

"Through this you also pass like one in a dream, won- 
dering why such beauty is wasted where the eye of man 
rarely beholds it. Another narrow outlet receives you, and 
guiding your frail canoe along the rapid current, you are 
again swallowed up by the wilderness, to be born anew in 
a lovelier scene. Thus on, as if under a wizard's spell, you 
move along, alternately lost in the narrow channels and 
struggling to escape the rocks on which the current would 
drive you, then floating over a broad expanse, extending 
as far as the eye can see into the mountains beyond. A 
ride through these eight lakes is an episode in a man's life 
he can never forget." 

* The Fulton Chain of Eight Lakes was named In honor of Robert Fulton, 
the celebrated American engineer and Inventor of the steamboat. 



66 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Of the physical outline of this "Tract," Prof. Lardner ' 
Vanuxem, thus remarks in his volume of the Geology of 
New York: — "The most interesting feature of the Wilder- 
ness region is its chain of lakes, placed so nearly upon a 
level, that but little labor from man is required to connect 
those of several counties together. The lakes of Herkimer 
and Hamilton are arranged upon a line which is parallel 
with the St. Lawrence R. and Ontario Lake, and with ihe 
Ohio, etc. ; appearing not to be accident merely, but the 
result of a law whose operations were in their direction, 
and on several parallels. These lakes, if a communication 
were opened from E. to W., would be much resorted to. 
The beauty of their waters, their elevation, and the wild 
scenery which surrounds them, would not fail to at'ract 
-visitors." 

We need not here enumerate the many other crystal 
lakes and rivulets that adorn this section, all situated in 
the midst of the finest scenery, as they are noticed in their 
proper places. 

Here at the "Old Forge," where Herreshoff erected his 
mills, is one of the best water-powers in the world. The 
original dam, some 40 ft. long, is still standing, and when 
first constructed, raised the water in Fourth Lake 2 ft. It 
has since been raised 4 ft. higher. No other vestige (ex- 
cept a rusty trip-hammer) remains to remind the observer 
of the former business activity of the location. Entering 
our boats and passing up the stream, pausing at Indian Pt., 
(1.) to examine the spot where Uncle Nat. shot his aborigi- 
nal foe, we enter First Lake. Here we will briefly turn 
from our route to make an excursion to the sequestered 
region of "South Branch," of Moose R. Turning sharply 
to the right, when near the middle of the lake, we pass Dog 
Island, and land at a little opening about 40 r. this side of 
the marsh, and carry S. over a good path ^ m. to Little 
Moose Lake. This beautiful sheet covers a surface of 450 
acres and contains no islands. A long green promontory 
nearly divides it in twain; and from its elevated summit 
we obtain an entrancing view of the whole lake, one of the 
purest and deepest on the "Tract." "It has a beach of in- 
comparable whiteness, and the bottom of the lake, which 
looks like a vast bed of fine white salt, can be seen as we 



LITTLE MOOSE LAKE. 67 

sit in our boats, glittering beneath, at an immense depth." 
— Headley.* 

It was long famed for the abundance and superior quali- 
ty of its trout, speckled and salmon, and received its name, 
as did Big Moose Lake, from the fact that it was once a 
favorite haunt of the now extinct moose. Moose Mt. rises 
near its shores. The inlet entering its eastern extremity, 
flows from East Pond, containing 40 or 50 acres; reached 
by a carry of ^ m. N. E. Its outlet unites with South 
Branch. t Traversing about two-thirds of its length, we 
land on its S. shore, opposite the rocky point, and carry 5^ 
m. S. to Panther Lake, a jewel of the first water with emer- 
ald settings, and really /^/^M^r- like in its wildness. This 
supplies one of its inlets. Passing over this sheet (^ m.) 
we make a portage of 2 m. S. to the South Branch. This 
carry is a difficult one; but our efforts will be rewarded by 
some of the very best speckled trout fishing to be found in 
the North Woods. The noted "Comb's Spring Hole," at 
the foot of the Stillwater, 2% m. below the river end of the 
Panther Lake carry, and "Canachagala Spring Hole," lo- 
cated 6^ m. above the same point, at the junction of the 
Canachagala outlet with South Branch (5 m. from Cana- 
chagaly L.; no path — follow the course of the stream), are 
of remarkable interest to fishermen. Deer are also found 
here in considerable numbers. On this stream, and nearly 
opposite Moose Lake, is a small clearing of several acres^ 
called "Canachagala," and supposed to have been made by 
Indians. Canachagala and the WoodhuU lakes are visited 
from this locality by taking a path leaving the river, S.^ 
and following the course of the old Remsen road. Dis- 
tance to Woodhull L., i^ m.; to Old Forge, in opposite 
direction, 6 m. The Bisby and Woodhull L's. (p. 54) are 
also reached from Comb's Spring Hole, via Comb's L. 
(}i X %) 1% m.\ and thence to the two Chub L's. which 
empty into Upper Bisby L. near by. South Branch is not 

* Tlie section embracing Little Moose L. and this portion of Soutli Brancli 
is owned by the Adirondack League Club. Sportsmen must not trespass 
upon this territory. A magniflcent Club House called " Mountain Lodge," 
has been erected at Little Moose. This is probably the most complete of its- 
kind in the entire country. (See p. 36.) 

t Lying N. of East P. and E. of First L., is Mountain P. From East P. a 
carry leads S. E. 2 m. to Lime Kiln Creek, whence it is a short distance, to 
two other little ponds E. and S. E. 



68 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

navigable below Comb's Spring Hole, nor above the Pan- 
ther L. carry. Near the latter point, Lime Kiln Creek, 
outlet of Lime Kiln L. 12 m. above, enters South Branch, 
and at the falls by that name, fine fishing is afforded. 

Several miles E. of Panther Lake carry, is Pico L., and 
another nameless pond. 

The scenery at the foot of First L has been greatly 
marred by the overflow caused by the dam at Old Forge — 
numerous dead trees lining the bank of the stream in the 
approach to this sheet. A prominent object in the S. E. is 
Moose L. Mt. A narrow submerged sand-bar forms the 
line of separation from Second L. We enter this through 
a channel about 20 ft. wide. Here on a pleasant point is 
located the noted "Siickney Camp," erected years ago by a 
wealthy citizen of St. Louis. 

Second L. [i x j4) has more abrupt and also finer shores, 
and is withal more attractive than First L. ; but Third L. 
([ X ^) [20 r. beyond by the sluggish strait], with its hand- 
some shape and pure deep trout-waters, is deemed the most 
important of the three. It furnishes excellent salmon (buoy 
or trolling) fishing, and its principal inlet is E. Creek, a 
favorite resort of those who seek for speckled trout. This 
deep but narrow stream, densely fringed with alders, is 
navigable for % m. Third L. has one treeless, grassy islet. 

The trail to the summit of Bald Mountain,* an elevation 
rising from the N. shores of Second and Third Lakes, and 
presenting a majestic front of naked rock nearly a mile in 
extent, starts from Perrie's Hotel at the head of Third 
Lake. Distance to extreme height about i m. The path 
ascends gradually till the summit is nearly reached, when 
precipitous cliffs are encountered, the scaling of which 
renders the final portion of the ascent somewhat laborious. 
The crest, entirely destitute of trees, is composed of smooth 
gneissoid rock, frequently shaped like the roof of a house; 
and along the sharp and gently ascending ridge, one can 
walk nearly ^ m. The southern side has a sheer descent 
where we may look down hundreds of feet. A charming 
prospect of wilderness-scenery is here enjoyed. Eleven 

* This peculiar mountain was recently renamed St. Louis t)y Verplanck Col- 
vin. It was formerly called Mt. Scope ; also Nat. Foster's Observatory; as it 
was a favorite lookout of tliat forest ranger. 



THE FULTON CHAIN. 69 

pearly lakes and ponds are in view; and mountains and 
valleys appear in every direction as far as the vision extends. 
At least 140 towering domes are visible to the naked eye. 
Among the most conspicuous of these is the famed Mt. 
Emmons (Blue Mt.); though the grand Tahawus, also 
Mclntyre, Saddle Back, Seward, Owl's Head and Amper- 
sand with dim outline, are included in the grand panorama 
spread before us. 

Passing out of Third Lake we work through a short 
and rapid channel of the clearest water, (}i m.) and with 
all the dramatic effect of the stage. Fourth Lake, the 
largest and grandest of the group (6 x i^) unfolds itself. 
The shores now grow high and commanding ; and rise in 
rapid ascents from the gentle undulating hill up to moun- 
tain precipices. As we pass along, the points and head- 
lands seem to shift their locations, as if ingeniously dis- 
placed for startling effects. The beautiful hemlock grows 
to the water's edge, and in the hazy light of a July sun, 
seems but delicate tracery covering the rugged ground, 
and giving it everywhere a poetic witchery. The surface 
of the water, calm and undisturbed, reflects all these 
beauties with strange precision ; and as we gaze, we lose 
the lines that divide the real from the shadowy world. In 
the center of this lake is a singular group of rocks, known 
as Elba Island (/^ a.) Its grey and bright yellow sides, 
interspersed with stunted vegetation, have a most brilliant 
effect in the noonday sun, and viewed at a distance, appear 
like jewels set in the cerulean blue of the surrounding 
water. Six miles is a long distance to impatient hunters, 
and Elba serves as a magnificent monument to break up 
the long reach. Many years ago some lads passing in a 
skiff thought they saw something moving among the brush; 
a careful inspection served to discover the sleek form of a 
large panther. The comparatively harmless shot of a 
fowling-piece drove the "varmint" into the lake ; the boys 
followed in pursuit, and by some fortunate blows of an oar 
succeeded in killing it. — [T. B. Thorpe ] 

Several other islands grace this lake. One mile from 
the foot is Deer or Big I. containing loo a., heavily tim- 
bered. Then follow. Bear (15 a). Cedar, Dollar, and Gull 
I's. — the latter being a peculiar rock shooting upwards 



70 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

from the water. On the Cedar I's, — connected by a pict- 
uresque bridge — is the Cedar Island House, where travelers 
will find the attractions of a pleasant home and interesting 
surroundings. 

They will be well entertained also at Fred Hess's (at head 
of the lake); and Alonzo Wood's Camp — both proprietors 
famous guides. Likewise at Johnson's, Forest Home, and 
Fourth Lake House. The latter has a pleasant situation 
at the foot of the lake, and is well patronized. Paths pen- 
etrating the forest, enable guests to stroll several miles 
through these shaded aisles — an agreeable diversion. 

Wood's place is located on the direct route to Big Moose 
Lake. 

There are also several furnished camps on the Fourth, 
well adapted to the wants of "campers," which may be 
rented. Steamer Fulton stops twice daily at all these 
points. (P. O. Old Forge, N. Y.) 

From the head of the lake rise two interesting peaks; 
Nipple Top and Black Mts. Both of these have trails to 
their summits and afford fair views. There is a signal 
station on the latter. Mt. St. Louis looms up finely as 
we look towards the foot of the lake. Five distinct echoes 
may be produced at this point. 

The trout resorts are: — Up Eagle Creek (entering the 
lake on N. W. side ^ m. below Eagle Bay) as far as the 
boat will float ; mouth of a little stream* S. side, opposite 
Big I. (midway); and mouth of another small stream just 
below Pine Pt. Good buoy fishing is also afforded. 

We will again deviate from our course to examine anoth- 
er group very interesting to sportsmen, namely: the North 
Branch (of the Moose R.) Chain. These waters lie parallel 
to the Eight Lakes, and their particular names are : First, 
Second,! Big Moose, Moss or Morse, Cascade, etc.. Lakes. 
The North Branch and the three first named are reached by 
two different routes, as follows : — 

* This is the outlet of a tiny pond called "Kiver" K m. 1. lying 60 r. from the 
lake. Carry starts opposite W. end of Big Island. It'has no trout Ibut swarms 
with "pumpkin seed" nsh. Opposite Elba I,, S. side. ^Q or 60 r. from the lake 
lies another pond. 

t It is to he regretted that the original names of First and Second Lakes 
were not retained, as much confusion might thus have heen avoided. The 
lormer was called "Landon," and the latter "Foster." 



THE NORTH BRANCH, 7 1 

1. 

We take out our boats about i m. above the foot of 
Fourth Lake, )., or J^ m. above the old Dunakin Camp,* 
situated some 40 r. beyond the first point that we pass af- 
ter entering the lake. We carry N. 3^ m. ; then cross Big 
or Carry Pond, }i m. ; thence carry 1^ m.; then pass over 
a portion of First Lake (^ x 5^), and up the inlet, r. N. 
E. (Moose R.) 21^ m ; then carry, 1. % m.; then take 
stream again ^ m.; then carry, r. j^ m.; thence row- 
through Second Lake 1 1/^ m ; and stream, N., i m ; thence 
carry, r. i J^ m. to Big Moose Lake. 

First L. presents scenery of considerable interest. A 
mountain around which the carry to Fourth L. leads, rises 
from its S. shore, and Panther and Moss L. Mts. with their 
savage cliffs, are very conspicuous in the N, E. The pine 
tree abounds along its banks. A few salmon and many 
speckled trout are taken from its waters. The principal 
spring-hole may be found where Shallow P. outlet enters 
West Bay. Carry from here to Shallow F. {% ^ /i) }{ 
m. W., whose shallow waters contain a few speckled trout. 

West of First L. )^ m. is a pond }i m. 1,; and }{ m. 
W. of that is another pond. 

South of First L., (& W. of Carry P.) are Fly and several 
other ponds. 

Passing down the outlet (North Branch) of First L. 
several miles, the angler at the important spring-holes 
en route^ will find extraordinary sport. F^rom this stream 
about ^ or I m. below First L. Little Safford L. is reached 
by carrying i^^ m. W. ; and Clear P. by carrying 1 m. N. 
of that; whence we carry i^,m. W. to reach Independ- 
ence L.; thence a carry leads N. E. i m. to Independence 
R. flowing from Otter P. about 2 m. E. 

Big Safford L. (^ x ^) a secluded sheet lying at the 
base of Panther Mt. is reached from First L. by carrying 2 
m. N.; or from Deep Hole Bay, a noted spring-hole i m. 

* The abundance of cold springs on tlie sliore of tills part of tlie lake, ren- 
ders it a favorite camping ground. At the Dunakin Camp a spring gushes 
from the rocks so cold (8 deg. above freezing point,) that the want of ice- is 
unknown. 



72 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

up the inlet (North Branch), by carrying i)^ m. N. W. 
It furnishes good speckled trouting and deering.* 

Resuming the route to Big Moose L. and passing up the 
North Branch from First L. we find the scenery quite strik- 
ing. The savage crags of Panther and Moss L. Mts. are 
ever in view, and the surroundings are of the most prime- 
val character. 

Second L. {i}i x }^) a charming sheet, (noted for its 
salmon trout) is overshadowed by Moss L. Mt. on the 
opposite side of which lies Moss L., reached by a carry of 

*Botli tlie North and Soutli Branches of Moose R. seem fltted W natui'e to] 
toe the home of the trout, and have long heen dear to many an American ] 
brother of the angle. 

A FISHING TRIP. 



I 



BY ERNST HELD. 

I made a trip, a stream to whip, 

Where plenty trout in frolic skip ; 

Before, Ahem — ! I took a sip — 

A fever-ague-killing nip ; 

So fortified, I let her slip 

My fishing-boat, a tiny snip, 

Down, where below a stony rip 

On NoRTHBRANCH — MooSE, the river's lip 

With kisses leaves a sandy strip ; 

There speckled beauties flop and flip. 

Which took the fly with eager grip, 

And filled the basket at my hip. 

But joys are fleet : There's many a slip — 

A story old — 'twixt cup and lip. 

Crazed by mosquitoes' bloody grip, 

I rose to fill and light my pip'. 

Whilst carelessly my bamboo whip 

Was thrown across the seat midship. 

Alas ! Alas ! My little chip 

Of boat made a preposterous dip ; 

I balanced, — staggered, — made a trip, — 

A seatwise fall, — a crash ! — *' O Rip 

Van Winkle ! Saint of woodmen ! Keep 

My soul from swearing lest a heap 

Of savory d s befoul my lip ; 

And would it cure my broken tip ? " 
Thus did I cry ; whilst from the deep 
The largest trout made leap on leap 
And dared me, with a saucy peep 
Of wistful eyes, to catch and keep 
Them, if I could.. A splintered tip 
Was the memento of my trip. 



BIG MOOSE LAKE, 73 

1 1^ m. Comfortable quarters will be found at Dart's Ho- 
tel. Hence it is about i^ m. to Fourth L. 

Big Moose or Sherman L. is a beautiful and sequestered 
sheet, {4)4 x i) encircled by a double frame- work of lofty 
heights, presenting with its varied features of points, bays 
and islands, (Echo 1. the principal one) a scene of pictur- 
esque loveliness rarely excelled. On its N. shore is a bay 
of such remarkable form, that it might well be regarded as 
a separate lake, being nearly detached from the main body. 
Big Moose is said to furnish the best June fishing in the 
Wilderness. Both speckled and salmon trout abound in 
its cold deep waters, and there is no scarcity of venison. 

The wide and deep N. E. inlet, one of the wildest of for- 
est-streams, outlet of the Two Sister P's, and navigable for 
i}^ m., swarms with large speckled trout; and the broad 
marshes lining its course, form a vast feeding-ground for 
deer. 

Two forest-inns— "The Higby," and "Camp Crag"— of- 
fer every attention and necessary comfort to sportsmen. 
They are both pleasantly situated ; and although this lake 
and the surrounding waters lie within the precincts of Dr. 
Webb's Ne-ha-sa-ne Park, sporting and camping privileges 
to a certain extent, may be obtained through the proprie- 
tors of these hotels. (P. O., Old Forge, N. Y.) Big Moose 
Lake Station on the A. & St. L. R. R. is within 2 m. of 
the lake, by wagon-road, where carriages await tourists 
bound for that point. Boats are taken for a portion of the 
journey. A line of boats also serve travelers who wish to 
visit the Fulton Chain. 

There are upwards of 40 different bodies of water within 

2 hours' walk of Big Moose. 

» 

From this lake by carries it is 3 m. to Twitchell L,, 
around which cluster a dozen beautiful lochans ; thence 
4 m. to Wood's L.; thence 2^ m. (passing Lily P.) to the 
Carthage Road and Loon L. 

From Big Moose it is j4 m, S. (carry) to West P. 

From N. end of Big Moose a new route leads to Raquette 
L. as follows:— Carry 2 m. S. E. to Constable P. (^ x j4); 
thence i m. S. to Queer L.; thence 2^ m. S. E. to Shallow 



74 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

L.; thence boat down the outlet 31^ m. to Cranberry P. 
{i}4 X 2y£); thence carry i m. to Raquette L. 

East of Constable P. is Pigeon P., and E. of that is Otter 
P. The most of them have bold shores and varied attrac- 
tions, and discharge into Big Moose. 



From Fourth L. we carry N. from the shore opposite 
Elba I. J^ m. to a pretty little round pond (i^ x }{); 
thence ^ m. to Bub's L * (>^ m. 1.); thence i m. to Moss 
L.; thence i^ m. to .Second L. North Branch; thence 
stream N. i m.; thence carry r. 1% m. to Big Moose Lake, 
(p. 71). Boats are not usually put in these waters in mak- 
ing the portage to Moss L. 

Bub's L. is of remarkable shape and also quite romantic. 
Sis P. (^ X }i) sparkles 40 r. S. W. of it. 

Moss L. (^ X ^) in whose clear waters is reflected the 
mountain bearing that name, has bold and striking shores 
and interesting environments. Both salmon and speckled 
trout are plentiful At the mouth of its outlet at North 
Branch (i^ m. above First L.) the latter are taken in great 
numbers. The chief inlet of Moss L. is the outlet of John's, 
or Cascade L (i^ x ^) lying 2 m. E. (carry). This lone- 
ly water is a gem-like sheet with romantic banks and at- 
tractive surroundings. The Murray P's. and Queer L. lie 
^ and i^ m. respectively N. W. and N. of it (blazed line). 
Cascade L. may also be reached from Fourth L. by a trail 
starting at Eagle or N. E. Bay; distance, 2% m. It is a 
rough carry leading over a mountain. 

Leaving Fourth Lake, boats are generally paddled up 
half the length of the narrow inlet, and then pushed the 
remainder of the distance, by the guides ; travelers usually 
preferring to walk over the pleasant portage Yz m. to Fifth 
L. (^ m. long.) 

Lime Kiln Lake is reached by following a trail leading 
from the head of Fifth Lake — from a point 10 rods from 
the inlet, r. Distance 3 m. S. The path is hardly percep- 

* Arnold used to send Ms son Otis (the efficient guide), wJiom lie designated 
" Bui)," to this lakelet, and a daughter, whom he called " Sis," to the neigh- 
boring pond, to watch for deer ; hence their names. 



THE FULTON CHAIN. 75 

tible and the marked trees must be closely observed. This 
lake is about ij^ m. 1., contains several pretty islands, 
and is famed for its beauty. It furnishes many large 
ispeckled trout. Its outlet — Lime Kiln Creek — discharges 
into the S. Branch of Moose R. A deposit of lime found in 
this stream, gave the lake and outlet their name. In the 
neighborhood are several ponds, reached by good carries. 

The intrepid explorer, Verplanck Colvin, killed a large 
panther between Lime Kiln L. and Seventh Lake Mt. Feb. 
15, 1876. 

From the Fifth to the Sixth Lake there is a continued 
fall the intervening distance of ^ m. With a single lock 
between these two lakes, a water communication might 
easily be obtained through the whole extent of the eight 
lakes. (Simms.) The portage encountered here is a rough 
one. 

The Fifth and Sixth Lakes (both very wild, with marshy 
shores) are noted as deer resorts. The lily-leaved surface 
of these wood-embowered lakelets offers tempting pasturage 
to these gentle creatures, and here many of them meet their 
doom. 

In the Sixth L. is found that remarkable curiosity in 
vegetation known as floating islands. These are composed 
of various plants and grasses interlaced, forming movable 
masses, which do not yield to our weight. On the marsh 
at the head of this lake, cranberries are found in abun- 
dance. 

Passing from the Sixth (^ m. 1.) up the narrow and rapid 
inlet, (i m.) we enter the Seventh Lake, and are delighted 
with the panorama at this point unfolded to us.* This lake 
(2 m. 1.) ha?, not far from its center, one island (White's) 
of some 50 acres, covered with rocks and pine timber, which 
has become a popular camping place. Near the island off 
its S. shore, salmon trout have sometimes been caught, 
at a depth of 10 ft. weighing from 15 to 20 lbs. For 

* Later— The Sixth and the once lovely Seventh L., now present a scene of 
desolation. A dam has heen placed at the foot of the former, and ghastly 
dead trees now skirt the once hright and verdant shores of these waters. 
The silver toeach at the head of the Seventh, so long the hoast of that local- 
ity, has disappeared. Its inlet and outlet, from pleasant streams have he- 
come dismal swamps, divested of every charm ; and thus some of its most 
attractive features are perhaps lost forever. 



76 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

speckled trout, visit the little stream that enters near this 
place, and the inlet and outlet. Seventh Lake Mt. rises 
near the S. W, shore. 

South of the lake, near the foot is a connected group of 
tiny dimples styled Church Ponds. 

To reach Bug and Eagle Lakes, 2 little sheets lying 
alone in the forest, W. of Eighth L., we follow the path N. 
that starts from the E. shore, about 100 rods N. VV. of the 
mouth of the inlet of Seventh L. The route, part of the 
way, {i}4 m.) is a mere trail, followed by the aid of barked 
trees. Bug Lake is an uninteresting body of water, in shape 
similar to that of a boot. "Boot L." would be a more appro- 
priate name. It furnishes no fishing. When leaving this 
lake on the return trip, by turning sharply to the 1. and 
proceeding 80 or 100 r. we will reach Eagle Lake. The 
shores of this little loch rise boldly, almost precipitously, 
from the water's edge. It was once famous for its numer- 
ous large speckled trout, and it still affords some fine catches. 

Continuing our journey up the inlet of Seventh L., we 
land 1. and pass over the fair portage (1^ m.) to Eighth 
Lake, (1^ m. 1.) one of the brightest links of this re- 
markable chain. Its scenery, though with slight preten- 
sions to grandeur, is scarcely excelled in beauty by any 
other lake. Its shores, finely clothed with primeval woods, 
rise gently to considerable height, and cast their shadows 
into its limpid waters which are rarely surpassed in crys- 
talline purity. The surrounding forest — unusually at- 
tractive — remains untouched and unspoiled by the vandal 
axe or match. And it is to be hoped that this smiling 
sheet may long be preserved in its native loveliness. 

On the only island adorning this lake was located the soli- 
tary camp of Alva Dunning, the noted trapper and woods- 
man. Fair buoy fishing is afforded; and at the mouth of 
its N. E. inlet some speckled trout are taken. 

A blazed line extends to Mohegan P., 6 m. S. E ; also to 
Trout P., about 2 m. E. of S. 

Traversing the rough portage from the head of this lake, 
we arrive at the Brown Tract Inlet, flowing from the two 
pretty little Brown Tract P's only 20 rods apart, lying about 
I m. W. of the landing, and which may be visited by boat 
up the stream when the water is high. They are also 



PORT LEYDEN. 



77 



reached direct from Eighth L. by carry of 1 1/^ to 2 m. On 
an island in one of them, huckleberries abound, so large 
and juicy they might be palmed off for wild grapes. About 
the year 1873, 17 black bass were placed in these ponds, 
which have multiplied enormously. Many of them have 
passed down the outlet 5 m. to Raquette L., where they are 
caught in considerable numbers. 

Resuming our journey down the sinuous Brown Tract 
stream — perchance dragging the craft some distance at the 
commencement — we wind through a cheerless swamp, (4 m.) 
and anon the lovely Raquette lies before us. Distance 
from Old Forge about 26 m. 

A line of row-boats between the Fulton Chain and Ra- 
quette Lake, will connect with the steamer Fulton at head 
of Fourth Lake. A more romantic and delightful excur- 
sion can hardly be conceived. Fare, about $3.00. 

Sixth : — Port Leyden is pleasantly situated in the val- 
ley of the Black River, and is surrounded by very hand- 
some scenery. A short distance below the village, the 
channel of the river is contracted to less than 20 ft. in 
width, and the torrent rushes through the gorge (first 
named Hell Gate) with immense force. Several pot-holes 
have been worn in the gneiss rock to a great depth. Rock 
Island at this place, is a rugged bluff, whose scenery is 
highly picturesque ; it is as yet mostly undisturbed by 
the hand of man. 

Another very romantic scene may be witnessed in the 
neighborhood on Sugar R. that tumbles down 100 ft. 
through a gorge, presenting a succession of steps, having 
a general slope of about 45°. The banks on either side are 
nearly vertical, and from 100 to 200 ft. in height. Below 
the falls, the gorge spreads out into a beautiful vale cov- 
ered with a dense growth chiefly of evergreen timber, and 
far above the massive walls extend on either side. About 
% m. below, the whole of the river in the summer disap- 
pears in the fissures worn by the current, and about 50 rods 
below again appears at the surface. A road passes over 
the natural bridge thus formed. Near this place and in- 
the same strata are caves that have been explored some 200 
or 300 ft in different directions. (Hough's Lewis Co.) 



78 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Parties wishing to spend a few weeks in the country will 
find Port Leyden a desirable location for a temporary resi- 
dence. Tourists en route for the Wilderness are furnished 
with guides and conveyances by the proprietors of the Pine 
Street or Powers House, both offering good accommoda- 
tions to summer guests. 

There are two routes from this point to Old Forge; one 
forming a junction with the Boonville route, about midway 
between the latter village and Moose River, (ii m.) mak- 
ing the distance to Old Forge 24^ m ; and the other 
leading to Lyonsdale, 4 m.; thence to "Deacon Abby's place" 
3 m.; thence to Old Forge, merging into the Boonville road 
about 6 m. beyond Moose R., 18 m. Total, 25 m. The 
first of these roads, as far as Moose R., is kept in good con- 
dition. Stage daily to Moose R., 11 m., where trains are 
taken on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. for 
"Arnold's," (2 m. from Old Forge) and various points be- 
yond. 

The other road is sandy, hilly, unpleasant, and now im- 
passable except for pedestrians and equestrians. Hence 
people seldom travel that route. 

Seventh : — Lyon's Falls,* (formerly called "High Falls") 
a pleasant hamlet situated near the junction of Moose with 
Black River, has very picturesque surroundings. The cas- 
cade from which the village is named, plunges over a ledge 
of gneiss rock in the Black River, 63 ft. in height, at an an- 
gle of 60 degrees, presenting a scene in time of freshets, 
really grand and beautiful. The precipitous banks, at and 
below the falls, are so colored by the iron gradually washed 
from this ledge, that they seem to have been painted by 
human art ; hence they are called the "Pictured Rocks." 
Tradition relates that "many years ago, a white man (some 
claim it was the trapper, ' Uncle ' Nat. Foster) pursued by 
Indians leaped safely across the channels here and escaped 
from his pursuers ; they paused at the verge of the fearful 
chasm, and dared not fire their pieces at the heaven pro- 
tected fugitive." 

* Named from Caleb K. Lyon, nrst resident a;jent. His descendants resid- 
ing here are proprietors of a princely landed estate in tli3 neigtiboring- wil- 
derness. (See p. 62.) 



LAKE BRANTINGHAM. 



79 



From Lyon's Falls to Carthage, (42^ m.) Black R. is 
navigated by small steamers. 

There is a factory between this place and Lyonsdale, 
(3 m.) where spruce and poplar wood are put to a new 
use— being converted into paper by a process recently dis- 
covered. 

This little village with its romantic environments, fine 
boating and fishing, should become a popular summer 
resort. Aside from the falls, Chase's and Brantingham 
L. (8 m.) Lyonsdale and Sugar River Falls,* Whetstone 
Gulf and Chimney Pt., all accessible by good roads, form 
the chief attractions of this locality. The Walton and the 
Gaffney House are the principal hotels. 

The route to Old Forge (24^ m ) unites with the one 
leading from Port Leyden at Lyonsdale, 3 m. (Rarely 
traveled. See p. 78). 

Brantingham ! euphonic name of a lovely lake lying on 
the border of the Great Forest, perhaps 350 ft. above the 
Black River valley, and 1,200 ft. above the level of the 
sea, perpetuates the memory of Thomas Brantingham, who 
once owned about 75,000 acres of land, mostly in this town 
(Greig). 

Its banks richly wooded, rise in gentle slopes to a mod- 
erate height, and with its various features it presents a 
scene charmingly wild and picturesque. Two islands^ 
''Round" and "Dark," adorn its waters; the former rising 
abruptly in mound-like form, on whose elevated ground is 
perched a little cottage embowered by evergreens. Dark 
Island, mostly clothed with dark green pines and but a 
short distance away, is a very popular camping-place. 

Long Point, a narrow, rounded promontory entirely 
forest-clad, extends nearly ^ mile into the lake, and forms 
one of its most attractive features. Indeed it would be 
difficult to exaggerate the charms of this favored spot. It 
affords fine sites for camps or cottages ; as well as delight- 
ful rambles over smooth, clean ground, with the bewitch- 
ing waters of the lake glittering on either side.f The dense 
shade, and the constant breeze, laden with the sweet, bal- 

* These pretty falls are on Moose R. in tlie midst of pleasing scenery. 
t Partridge's cottage, on tills point, lias a cliarmlng situation. 



8o THE ADIRONDACKS. 

samic odor of that aristocrat of the forest, the pine, furnish 
delicious coolness even on the hottest days. On the lake 
near this point, there is a remarkable echo that repeats 
itself 7 times. 

The lake (ij^ x ii^) is so serrated with bays and capes, 
occasionally rimmed with golden sand, it is said to have 
10 or 12 miles of coast; and a natty little steamer, in its 
frequent excursions through its liquid vistas and along its 
irregular shores, travels 6 miles in the voyage ; fare 25 cts. 
for the round trip. Brantingham, though a sheet of rare 
beauty, makes no pretension to the grandeur of the fnountain 
scenery witnessed from many of the Adirondack lakes; but 
its various other attractions bring thither numerous sports- 
men, invalids and picnic parties, who are never disap- 
pointed with the visit.* 

The Lake House is admirably situated on a pine-crowned 
bluff at the termination of the branch road. It is an un- 
pretentious structure of home-like character, but the table 
is excellent, while the terms for entertainment are so rea- 
sonable that nearly all can afford to tarry here for days or 
weeks. The grounds, the shade and the surroundings, are 
all that can be desired ; and from this spot is enjoyed an 
admirable survey of nearly the entire length and breadth of 
the lake. The evenings especially, are replete with gayety 
and delight. On the water, often flooded with the silvery 
light of the moon, are merry boating parties ; now listening 
to the plaintive cry of the whip-poor-will, that songster of 
the night, filling the star-lit air with its quaint melody ; now 
awakening from their slumbers the reverberating echoes. 
At that witching hour, the rich notes of a cornet produce 
an effect like that of enchantment. There is an extensive 
boat livery for the free use of guests ; also a pleasant 
pavilion, covering a large dancing floor. Several neat lit- 
tle cottages dot the shores. 

Among the rambles and boating excursions that may be 
taken from the hotel, are the following: — 

To the Mineral Spring f m. S. E. by road. It is situated 
1. of the farther end of the picturesque bridge spanning the 

* Brantingham L. is only 7 m. from that important line of travel, the R. W. 
& O. R. R., from which many of the Wilderness resorts are reached ; and the 

ONLY ALL-BAIL ROUTE TO THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 



THE WHITE WATER LILY, 8l 

outlet, and luxuriant evergreen and other trees overshadow 
it. Its waters are strongly impregnated with iron, and con- 
tain some magnesia and a trace of sulphur. 

It is 2 m. thence by this road — a branch of the main road 
— through the wood's to Palen's Mills on Fish Creek. This 
excellent trout-stream may be reached en route \ m. beyond 
the Spring (i m. from the hotel), by diverging to the right 
25 or 30 rods. 

The road branching (r.) a short distance from the Spring 
and leading to Northrup's Mills, affords a pretty walk 
through an avenue of overarching trees. Large and deli- 
cious blackberries are very abundant here and elsewhere in 
the neighborhood. 

In the opposite direction — passing Round P., r. — Lake 
Pleasant (i m. from the hotel) is reached. It may also be 
visited from the hotel by two other routes: i. Boat to 
Smith's Pt.* 40 or 60 r. thence road through the woods 
and across the fields ^ m. 2. Boat to head of bay just 
beyond Smith's Pt., % m.; thence good path ^ m. 

This little lake (25 a.) was really pleasant before its 
shores were shorn of the bordering trees, and is noted for 
its clear, cold water. It has no visible inlet or outlet now, 
though boats formerly found a passage to Brantingham L. 
It furnishes pickerel of very handsome shape and color, 
and of superior flavor. When here, the ramble may be 
continued to Bullhead or Burr's P. 25 or 30 rods N. W. 

Lying yi m. S. E. of the hotel is Lily or Beaver P., the 
path leading through a handsome grove (Brower's Pt.) and 
offering delectable views of both lake and lakelet, in oppo- 
site directions. Its surface is generously mantled with the 
pure and odorous white water-lily,f that most exquisite of 
our native flowers. This little loch is an oflf-shoot of the 
outlet of Brantingham L., flowing into Fish Creek (i m.). 

* Kev. Mr. Hoadley's cottage Is located at this delightful spot. 

t "No wonder that the Buddhists hall the holy lotus, and dedicate it to the 
apostle of their faith." The botanical name of the pond-lily Is i^ymphcBa 
oaorata, the poetical Greeks having, with their usual good taste, associated 
it with the water nymphs. The roots are often large, and are hurled deep 
down amidst the mud, while the round, flat leaves, often crimson underneath 
and attached to lengthy stems, repose upon the surface of the water. The 
flowers open in the early morning and rejoice in the summer sunshine, hut 
in the afternoon they close again to sleep through the hours of the night. 
The white of the petals is tinged with a delicate pink, suggestive of the Vic^ 
toria Regla, the queenly lily of the Amazons. 



S2 THE ADIRONDACK?. 

Traces are still visible of the dam built here many years 
ago by the historically industrious beaver. 

Long P. lies only 15 rods W. of the lake, nearly opposite 
Round I. And here, that curiosity of the vegetable king- 
dom, known as the Pitcher Plant,* flourishes in profusion. 

It is ii^ m. N. W. of Brantingham L. to Catspaw L., an 
old-time deer resort, but with nothing else to recommend 
it. Route: — Boat, jj{ m. — landing beyond Dark I., a 
short distance 1. of Partridgeville Landing; thence follow 
a lumber road (lined with blackberry bushes) through a 
belt of woods to the highway, (Otter Lake road) ; thence 
the way traverses a pasture, and passes through a pleasant 
pine-bordered amphitheater. 

Dyers P. — an interesting little ''punch bowl" — lies close 
to the highway some 40 or 60 rods E. of where our route 
to Catspaw crosses this road (i}4 m. from Hubbard's 
Hotel). 

The several waters just named are perhaps individually 
tame, and present few attractions ; but as a whole, they 
form a sparkling setting to the principal jewel, Lake Brant- 
ingham. 

Again, from Brantingham L. it is i m. N. to Otter Creek, 
one of the best natural trout-streams in this section ; and 
2% m. N. E. (road) to Crooked Creek, also a very fine 
trout resort. (See Glendale Route to Otter L., Independ- 
ence R , &c., dy which Brantingham L. is most conven- 
iently visited?) 

On Otter Creek are several pretty cascades, — 4 to 15 ft. 
fall — that merit a visit. Route from hotel : — Boat through 
lake to Partridgeville Landing i^ m.; thence road i m. to 
near Partridgeville; thence road (1.) through the woods Yi 
m.; or road along the lake 3 m. 

On Crooked Creek i^ m. from Partridgeville begin a 
series of beautiful waterfalls. There are 3 within a space 
of 2 m., one descending 20 ft. This well-sized stream is of 
crystal clearness, and produces trout of silvery hue. 

* "The flowers alone are curious enough ; hut as If not satisfied with mak- 
ing them unique, Nature has endowed the plant with leaves only surpassed 
in wonder hy the lidded pitchers of Nepenthes. These are often filled with 
pure and delicious water ; and when the hrooks fall to yield their limpid 
treasures, the pitcher-plant in the heaver meadow, presents its cup of spark- 
ling nectar to the wearied traveler or the wild gazelle, with almost thought- 
lul kindness." 



LAKE BRANTINGHAM DISTRICT. 83 

From the upper fall it is ^ m. by good path to Stony 
L., (75 a.) ; also reached by trail from Partridgeville, 3 
m. This picturesque sheet is fitly named. It is long (i 
m ) and narrow, and nearly encompassed by rocky shores. 
It contains one island, and several huge boulders dot its 
surface. It affords good " deering " and trouting, and flows 
into Independence River. 

Whortleberry P. (}^ x }i) also an affluent of Independ- 
ence R. lies about i m. N. W. of Stony L , and 2 m. from 
Spring or Sperryville, i m. E. of Chase's L. Huckleber- 
ries abound near this deer resort. Reached by road. 

Panther P. (pretty) likewise a source of Independence 
R., lies N. of it, and Bell's P., another source, lies N. of 
that ; and a little farther N. are Francis and Beaver L's at 
Number Four. 

Little Otter L. (^2 x ys) lies 3 m N. E. of Brantingham 
L. and is reached via a rough winter-road through the 
woods from the dam at Partridgeville. This attractive 
water is surrounded by a luxuriant growth of evergreens 
and is gilded at its upper end by a sand beach. It is very 
pleasing, and needs only mountains to make it really beau- 
tiful. It is noted for both deer and trout. Its inlets and 
its outlet — Little Otter Creek — are ^// good trout-streams. 

Inman P. (4 a.) i m. S. of Little Otter L. and i m. from 
Partridgeville by lumber-road, swarms with bullheads. 
Outlets into Crooked Creek. 

Long P. lies S. E. of Little Otter. 

Pitcher P. (8 a.) lies in the vicinity near junction of Big 
and Little Otter Creeks. 

The 3 Wormwood P's (muddy) lie i^ m. N. W, of Lit- 
tle Otter L. and i m. from Sand P. lying S. E. of Chase's 
Lake. 

Murtaugh P. (i a.) ^ m. S. E. of Little Otter L., (no 
trail) is as clear as crystal, and has no visible inlet or outlet. 

Brantingham L. is well adapted as headquarters for ex- 
cursions to other yet more distant lakes, streams and water- 
falls. Among them the following are recommended: — It is 
Ji}4 m. to Big Otter L. and 10 m. to Big Pine L. (i x yi — 
200 a.) via the Otter L. route; the road branching r, at 
Botchford's Tannery ; and from here it is 3 m. of rough 
traveling. Big Pine is a beautiful water, adorned by a 



34 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

single pine-clad island, and a densely wooded mountain 
rises from its shore. It is admirable sporting ground for 
deer or trout. Distance thence to Big Otter L. i}( m. N. 
E. (trail to the dam). Near Big Pine are East and West 
P's (25 a. each). 

From Big Pine it is 4 m, E. by blazed line to Middle 
Settlement L. (J x |), (2^ m. by trail from Brown Tract 
road) which takes its name from a clearing once made 
near it, mid-way, on the "Deacon Abbey road." It is long 
and narrow, and of peculiar shape; and is nearly surround- 
ed by bold mountain scenery. Its marshy borders furnish 
good feeding ground for deer, and it is also productive of 
trout. 

Thence it is i}4 m. E. by line to Cedar P. (30 a.); — 
richly fringed with ce^ar and tamarack trees, and well 
stocked with small trout. Near this carry (midway) rises a 
cavernous mountain, whose rocky ledges present an inter- 
esting spectacle. 

Thence by trail ^ m. N. E. is Spring or Gibbs's L. {ys 
X /^).* From here a trail leads 154 i^- to N. E. corner 
of Mid. Settlement L. Spring L. furnishes fine "deering" 
and trouting. 

From Cedar P. it is 2^ m. to East P., and ij4 m. W. 
(line) to Middle Branch L. (75 a.). This sheet has bold 
and rocky shores, and near its outlet an immense boulder 
50 ft. in diameter lifts its summit above the water. A sand 
beach enhances its comeliness, and it is generally pronounced 
the pearl of the entire group. It affords excellent trouting, 
especially in May ; but rarely any deer. Parties find it a 
most desirable camping- place, while they resort to Mid. 
Settlement L. ^ mile away by good path, for their venison. 
There is also a small deer-pond near. 

Thence through the trackless woods S. of W. it is about 
5 m. to Palen's Mills, and 2^ m. farther by road to 
Brantingham Lake House. The better route would be the 
lumber-road leading from Mud Hole to Palen's Mills, 5 
miles. 

* TMs is a mooted question. There are doubtless two separate bodies of 
water, and tlie sheet lying about 3>^ m. W. of Glbb's L. should be called 
Spring L., (20 a.) which has marshy shores and produces large trout. Mid- 
way between them lies easier P. (6 a.). 



BIG PINE LAKE SECTION. 85 

From Middle Branch L. to Spring or Gibbs L., it is 3 m. 
by good trail, where fine fishing is generally obtained. 
Thence it is i^ m. to N. Br. Moose R.; thence to Old 
Forge Hotel 1% ni. 

About ii^ m. S. W. of Mid. Branch L. (line) perched 
squarely on the summit of a bold acclivity several hundred 
feet in height, is Mt. Cascade P. (5 a.) discovered by Frank 
Perkins of Lyons Falls.* The outlet of this tarn forms a 
most picturesque cascade, plunging down the perpendicu- 
lar side of the parent height with one sheer fall of 60 ft. 
With the wild surroundings, it offers a spectacle quite im- 
pressive. 

The outlets of Cedar P., Spring, Mid. Settlement and 
Mid. Branch L's form Mid. Branch Stream, discharging in- 
to Pine Creek. 

Again, from Big Pine L. it is 21^ m. S. (trail) via Mud 
Hole, or i;^ m. direct to Little Pine L. (30 a.), also good 
ground for sport. 

Big and Little Pine, and Mid. Branch L's. discharge into 
"Mud Hole," which is nearly 1% m. long, 6 rods wide, and 
an expansion of Pine Creek, entering Moose R. about % 
m. E. of Fowlersville. The boggy shores of Mud Hole 
tremble beneath our tread for a space of 40 ft. Trout 
are plentiful in its muddy waters, especially in the spring- 
time. Distance to Little Pine, \ m. by good road. 

From Little Pine it is 1% m. S. (trail) to Copper L. (^ 
X 3^), famed for its large speckled trout. It derived its 
name from the color of its water ; the red-sand bottom giv- 
ing it a coppery hue. The abandoned Deacon Abbey road, 
leading from Port Leyden^ (14 m.) and Lyon's Falls, (13 
m.) to Old Forge, passes near it. And thus, this cluster of 
lakes may be reached by pedestrians, though the road is no 
longer passable for wagons. Copper L. — in beauty rare- 
ly surpassed — contains i pretty island, and outlets into 
Pine Creek. It may be reached by road from Brantingham 
L.; distance about 8 m. 

Hough and Garrett P's. lie near the Deacon Abbey road 
N. E. of Lyon's Falls. 

* To tliis expert woodsman and fine musician (Frank Perkins) we desire to 
offer our grateful tlianks for valuable information received. 



86 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

North of Copper L. ^ m. are 2 unimportant ponds 25 
rods apart, of 15 to 20 a. each, which unite in Mid. Branch 
Stream. 

A lumber-road leads from Botchford's Tannery (Otter 
Creek), to Moose River Tannery, (15 m.) via Pine L., Mud 
Hole, and Copper L.; uniting with the Brown Tract road 
3 m, from Copper L., and 2 m. from Moose River. 

Although the several lakes just named are bounded by 
no lofty mountains, they possess many remarkable features ; 
and though the lumberman and bark-peeler have long been 
busy in their midst, and numerous majestic pines and hem- 
locks have fallen a prey to the relentless ax, ("All the pines 
shudder and heave a sigh, when the lumberman steps on 
the forest floor.") yet a rich abundance of bright ever- 
green and other trees still remain; and this sparkling group 
presents such a combination of charms to the sportsman 
and tourist, as will long continue to attract them. 

Eighth : — From Glendale (Higby Hotel), a little village 
pleasantly situated on Black River, to Greig,* 31^ m.; 
Brantingham P. O. (Habbard's Hotel) 3 m.; (Brantingham 
Lake by branch road, i m.f) Partridgeville, 2 m ; Botch- 
ford's Tannery, 4 m.; Dolgeville, ^ m.; Otter Lake, (dam) 
3 m.; Otter L. Landing, i m. Total, 171^ m. 

One and one-half m from Glendale, on the route, will be noticed an 
imposing granite mass of considerable altitude that forms a very con- 
spicuous feature of the landscape, termed "Deer Lick Rock." A salt 
spring existing near its base, was once the common resort of deer ; 
hence the name. And could these silent witnesses disclose the secrets 
of the past, we should doubtless find this spot one of historic interest. 
In the swamp, near which the rock rises, many relics have been un- 
earthed, strongly indicating that this was the scene of some fierce con- 
flict in colonial days. Esq. Olliver of Glendale, has a collection of in- 
teresting specimens found at this place, embracing stone tomahawks, 
arrow-heads and gun-locks. Engraved on one of the latter, are the 
owner's name and the date (1779). 

* Greig Is a prettily situated village with 2 trout streams— Crystalline 
Creek and Cold Brook— in the neiglilDorliood. Choice of 2 roads (ascending 
grade) to Brantingham. 

t Although Brantingham L. lies l m. from the direct route to Big Otter L., 
none who would see a charming water, should pass it unnoticed. It is more 

CONVENIENTLY REACHED FROM GLENDALE, THAN FROM ANY OTHER R. R. STA- 
TION. 



BIG OTTER LAKE. 87 

The road from Glendale traverses a picturesque and un- 
dulating section of the country for a large portion of the 
route, now skirting Black R. in a long, pleasant reach, now 
nearly touching the noted Brantingham L., and thence fol- 
lowing the course of Otter Creek. It is in good condition, 
(generally well shaded and enlivened by occasional patches 
of corduroy) as far as Dolgeville; thence it is rough travel- 
ing through the unbroken woods to Big Otter Lake. 

Partridgeville and Dolgeville are mere hamlets. Botch- 
ford's Tannery was a mammoth comcern, managed by a 
popular and energetic man, who is also proprietor of the 
Moose River Tannery, to which leads a lumber road (15 
m.) But since the supply of bark in the surrounding for- 
est became exhausted, this place, once teeming with life, 
has been entirely deserted, and everything is going to 
decay. 

From Botchford's a rough road extends through the 
woods to Number Four; 11 m. This route, after leaving 
Independence Road passes through a remarkable canon, 
whose perpendicular walls of solid rock tower 25 to 40 ft. 
on either side, and affords just space enough for the passage 
of a wagon. Parties from No. 4. visit Big Otter Lake most 
conveniently by this route. There are several nameless 
ponds on the way. 

From Botchford's it is 3 m. S. E. to Big Pine L. (p. 83); 
and 4J^ m. N. to Independence River — with its silvery 
running waters — one of the wildest and most beautiful of 
trout-streams. The road (good) passes near an abandoned 
silver mine (3 m.). It is 4 m. up the river to Hitchcock L. 

At Dolgeville there is an immense mill, where large 
quantities of piano sounding-boards and broom-handles are 
manufactured. The machinery is so perfect that a log 
fresh from the stream or woods is converted into broom- 
handles in 15 minutes. Acadian quiet reigns in this un- 
pretentious hamlet ; but though the accommodations are 
rough; the people are very hospitable, and furnish cheer- 
fully the best they have. Mr. A. L. Leavitt, Sup't of the 
"Otter Lake Mills," keeps a little store where camping sup- 
plies may be obtained ; also a boarding house where guests 
are entertained at a nominal price. Sportsmen some- 
times stop here for days or weeks, and whip Otter Creek 



88 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

with great success. Guides, boats, and camping outfits are 
usually secured for the woods and waters beyond. 

At the termination of the road at Big Otter L. will be 
found a large and commodious hotel. This romantic sheet 
(ii^ X ^) has handsome bays and points, and in one direc- 
tion offers a fair mountain view. But devastating fires long 
since impaired the native beauty of its shores. The dam 
at the foot of the lake, through the overflow it has caused, 
has also damaged the scenery. Its outlet is Otter Cr. (Ind., 
Dah-ween-net, "the otter,") a stream of considerable vol- 
ume, frequently clothed with dark woods, and entering 
Black R. about i^ m. below Glendale. The lake is shal- 
low, (average 22 ft.) and in it is found the Chara^ by some 
called the fresh-water sponge. It is not particularly noted 
for deer, but is fame as a fishing resort has extended far 
away. It abounds in speckled trout, frequently of large 
size (4^ lbs.). Four trout-streams enter its waters; but 
the best fishing will be found at the mouth of the E. Inlet. 
Immense catches have been obtained there. 

Up S. Inlet about i m. (boat i^ m., path ^ m ) is a 
beautiful waterfall ; a cascade of silver churned into the 
whitest foam in. its descent of 15 or 20 ft. It is flanked on 
either side by towering rocks, and forms a scene almost 
sublime. This stream not only possesses the charms of 
wild and romantic scenery, but it offers extraordinary sport. 
Beyond the falls and below, the angry water is sometimes 
alive with trout ; the small ones above, and the larger ones 
in the dark pool beneath and down the sparkling stream. 
In fact, the entire length of this rivulet affords excellent 
fishing 

Two m. above the falls (path) is First Stillwater (camp); 
and Y^ m. above that is Second Stillwater ; where in a lit- 
tle nook of the forest is romantically situated the "Upper 
Camp," (an open log cabin with an immense rock in front 
of it). Third Stillwater is 2 or 3 m. farther up the stream. 
From this point it is about 4 m. S. E. through the tangled 
woods (line) to Gibbs's L , from which it is 3^ m. to Old 
Forge (p. 64.) 

East Inlet flows from East P. (^ x ^), 3^ m. N. E. ; 
reached by good lumber- road (2>^ m.) and path (^ m.), 
starting at Otter Slide Bay. It is a pleasant and secluded 



OTTER LAKE SECTION. 89 

sheet with one grassy island and has a peculiar rock rising 
near the center of its waters. It is set in a frame-work of 
mountains of fair elevation ; and having marshy shores, is 
a favorite resort of deer. It also furnishes remarkable 
trouting, especially in May. Within a few years panthers 
have been se^n and heard near its borders. 

To Cedar P. it is 2>^ m. (no trail). Follow the hard- 
wood ridge. 

East of East P. % m. (good trail over a mountain) is 
Simon's P. (30 a ) which empties into Upper Blackfoot P. 
The shores of this little lake are usually printed over with 
deer tracks. 

N. E. of East P. ^ m. (good carry) are the 2 Blackfoot 
P's (^ X i^ each) sources of S. Inlet ; and it is 4 m. from 
them N. E. to Independence L. ; making distance from 
Otter L. by this route 8 m. 

The Blackfoot P's are simply mud-holes, shaped like a 
foot ; hence the name, "Black" or Nigger-foot. They are 
40 r. apart, connected by boatable stream. Their numer- 
ous trout are clad in sable skins, yet the meat is salmon 
color and very palatable. 

From a point i m. on the way from Blackfoot P's to In- 
dependence L. a trail branches 1. Ys m. to Deer P. (10 a.). 

Independence L., (i x Z/i) lying in the neighborhood of 
Big Moose L. is one of the most wildly romantic sheets in 
this portion of the Wilderness. It has a solitary island and 
a sand beach. The forest enveloping it is primeval and 
unbroken, and until recently (1893) all around it has been 
solitude, boats having rarely disturbed its waters. Difficult 
of access, it was long the popular home of deer and trout. 
It was usually visited from the Fulton Chain, via First Lake, 
North Branch, until the construction of the Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R , which passes near its borders. Its 
outlet flows into Independence River. 

Wilcox L. is several miles N. W. of Independence Lake. 

Indian P., {% x j{) i m. from Simon's P., has bold 
shores and handsome scenery. 

A path branches 1. from the route between East and 
Blackfoot P's. to Chub or Round P. (15 a); but the better 
way to reach this sheet is by the good portage leading from 
upper end of Lower Blackfoot (}4 to ^ m ). 



90 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

From Chub P. it is ^ m. S. E. (trail) to East P. Chub 
outlets into Upper Blackfoot, and yields chubs of immense 
size; also large brook-trout. 

Carry from lower end of Lower Blackfoot, ^ m. to 
Simon's P. Good path. 

Simon and Chub are good trout ponds. They and the 
Blackfoot P's are surrounded by mountains of moderate 
height. 

North P. (I X 5) is reached from Big Otter L. by good 
portage (^ m.) starting at the sand beach, ist point. Its 
sequestered waters are fringed with tamarack trees. A 
nameless mountain rises near its banks. It is especially 
good for deer and trout. Discharges into Big Otter Lake. 

West P. (unimportant) ^ m. from the Landing, also 
empties into Big Otter Lake. 

A lumber-road leads from the Landing to Independence 
R. 3 m. N. Thence to Hitchcock L. it is i^ to 2 m. by 
good trail. From the end of that road up Independence 
R. it is 1% m. to Alder Creek. At the Stillwater, 10 rods 
up this stream, is fine trouting. 

Hitchcock L. (75 a.) though muddy and devoid of in- 
teresting scenery, furnishes good "deering" and trouting, and 
hence is popular with sportsmen. From there it is J^ m. 
E. to Grass P.; thence i m. E. to Moose P.; and thence 
2i^ m. S. by compass, back to the river again. Thence it 
is 6 m. (line) up the stream to Independence Lake. 

Near the Falls, in S. Branch, 2 m. from Hitchcock's L. 
is found most excellent trouting. 

Again, by following the good path leading from the ter- 
minus of the road just named, 3^ m., we reach Independ- 
ence L Total distance from B. Otter L., 8 or 8^ m. 
This is preferred to the East Pond route. 

From the Big Otter L. dam, it is 1 1^ m. S. W. (trail) to 
Big Pine L. (See p. 83) and from N. shore of Big Otter, it 
is 4 m. N. (trail) to the silver mine named on p. 87 ; from 
there it is about 2 m. N. to Independence River.* 

The Fulton Chain, lying 10 or 12 m. E. of Big Otter L., 
is reached by the aid of a compass, there being no trail. 

* Neither Independence R. nor Otter Creek— Doth hranches of Black R.— Is 
navigable for boats except on the stillwaters. 



LOWVILLE. OI 

Ninth .—From Martinsburg Station to Watson, called 
Beach's Bridge, over a good road, 3 m.; thence to Crystal 
Lake,* 10^ m.; Number Four, 4>^ m. Total 18 m. For 
9 ni. after leaving Watson, the road is very sandy ; the re- 
mainder of the route lies through the \voods,.and though 
sometimes rough and muddy, i§ .preferable to the first 
portion. 

Charles Fenton of Number F^^r, or the proprietor of 
the comfortable hotel at the Bridge^ will meet parties, 
either at Martinsburg Station or Lowville, and carry them 
to No. 4, or Stillwater at reasonable rates. 

Tenth : — Lowville, charmingly situated upon a bright 
little stream, whose miniature canons and silvery cascades 
form many a romantic scene, is one of the tidiest, loveliest 
and wealthiest villages in Northern New York. Its broad 
and cleanly streets adorned with handsome business blocks 
and tasteful residences, are richly shaded with the stately 
elm and the sugar maple. The center of a large and rich 
farming country, it is naturally an important furnishing de- 
pot ; and being the home of refined and educated people, 
it is possessed of good schools, fine churches, and the best 
of social advantages. The Kellogg House, (formerly the 
"Howell,") is the leading hotel, and we do not know of an- 
other village in the State of the s|:ze of Lowville, that fur- 
nishes a better one. Thus the hotel accommodations, and 
the natural advantages of the place, render Lowville one of 
the best patronized locations on the route. The roads in 
this vicinity are excellent, affording fine drives and views 
for 20 m. around; the scenery abounds in the varied charms 
of high cultivation and of the wildest beauty of bluff, forest 
and chasm. The 

LOWVILLE MINERAL SPRINGS 

are about i mile W. of the village, and an omnibus con- 
nects with every passenger train in the summer season. 
The existence of mineral waters has been known here for 
many years, but it was not till 1872 that anything was done 

* Crystal L. is a handsome sheet, with waters as clear as a diamond. Ly- 
ing S. E. in the unbroken woods near the oia Mo. 4 road, is the very pretty 
deer resort, Half-Moon L. ; so named from its crescrw^-shape. 



92 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

by way of improvement. In that year one of the residents 
bought the springs and 6 acres of land adjoining, where, 
in a beautiful maple grove of some 200 trees he built a 
fine structure — and out-buildings— the " Grove House," 
sufficient for some 60 guests. (It has changed proprietors 
since.) The waters are highly sulphureted, and are shown 
by analysis and trial, to possess medicinal properties second 
to none in the State, The quiet seclusion of the spot, and 
the charming scenery in the vicinity, render it a delightful 
place of sojourn in sumpier and autumn. A wild, rocky 
ravine a short distance from the premises, affords a pleasant 
ramble; and the road from the springs to the village is quite 
picturesque, affording glimpses of the great Wilderness in 
the blue distance, through a foreground of hemlock and 
cedar. 

chase's lake, 

10 m. S. E of Lowville, (good road) is noted for its pleas- 
ant scenery and is often visited by pleasure parties. There 
is an extensive manufactory of Tanning Extract in the 
vicinity. Hotel accommodations and boats for visitors 
are found at the lake. The unimportant Sand P. lies S. E. 

GULF and river SCENERS IN LEWIS CO., ON THE BORDERS 
OF THE ADIRONDACKS. 

A broad plateau occupies the western border of Lewis 
County and eastern part of Oswego, extending from Jeffer- 
son to Oneida. The rock is of Utica slate, that becomes 
on decomposition a firm, impervious clay. The interior 
of this elevated plain contains extensive swamps, and gives 
rise to Fish Creek, running S. into Oneida Lake; Salmon 
R. (Ind., Ga-hen-wa-ga; French, La Famine)^ running west 
to Lake Ontario; Deer R. (Ind., Ga-ne-ga-to da, "pounding 
corn"), flowing north, and several large streams running E. 
into Black R. The eastern slope of this plateau is known 
throughout Lewis County as Tug Hill,* and forms a bold up- 
land rising from the level, limestone country, to an elevation 
of 400 to 700 ft. The side-hill country back to a distance 
of several miles is an excellent dairying region. It has a 
deep, strong soil not liable to drouth, but often covered 

* This section is sometimes termed tne "Lesser V/ilderness." 



CHIMNEY POINT, WHETSTONE GULF, 93 

with deep snows in winter, and liable to be touched with 
late spring and early autumnal frosts. This side-hill be- 
ing composed of a soft, crumbling slate, is everywhere fur- 
rowed by running water. The smallest rivulet has worn 
its gorge, and even the spring rains and melting snows have 
made broad, deep channels in places altogether dry in 
summer. The larger brooks, especially Whetstone Creek, 
in the south part of the town of Martinsburg, and Martin's 
Creek, directly W. of Martinsburg Station (3 m.), have 
wrought out through centuries of time, gulfs of vast ex- 
tent, affording scenery that will compare favorably with the 
most noted of its kind in the State. If justly appreciated 
and widely known it would attract the attention of tourists 
and these places would become famous resorts. These 
streams, in winter powerful torrents, become so low in the 
summer as to afford no obstruction to crossing anywhere, 
and although not improved by stairways or other con- 
veniences, are easily accessible without great fatigue, and 
need no guide. 

CHIMNEY POINT 

derives its names from a huge triangular pyramid of slate 
rock having a fanciful resemblance to a chimney, and 
formed by the union of two gulfs. That on the S. side has 
a beautiful cascade some 60 ft. high. From a headland 
just over this fall, on the S. bank and in a dense evergreen 
thicket, we enjoy a charming prospect of the chasm, the 
wild and rugged gorge and fine agricultural plains beyond. 
The river valley and its eastern border rise into the forest 
region of the great North Woods until lost in the blue dis- 
tance, where dim traces of mountains on the extreme hori- 
zon rise into view, from whose summits the grander Adi- 
rondack peaks are plainly visible. The chasm is some 250 
ft. deep and the chimney 150 ft. high. The best view is 
afforded by the banks ; country roads passing near them, 
and the immediate approach being across open fields. 

A thrilling incident occurred here in the spring of 1839. 
Chillus D. Peebles was engaged in clearing land and rolling 
the timber off the gulf to avoid the trouble of burning.. By 
an unexpected movement of a log, he was thrown off the 
precipice, falling about 150 ft. and striking upon the steep 



94 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

crumbling slope of slate gravel that had fallen from above. 
Down this he rolled and bounded to the bottom, loo ft. 
farther; yet he was not so badly injured as to prevent his 
climbing to the top by the path usually followed, and with- 
out assistance. 

The N. branch of the gulf extends ^ m. farther up, un- 
til we meet with several cascades, entirely preventing fur- 
ther progress. Above these, the gulf presents nothing of 
special interest, as it gradually rises to the level of the cul- 
tivated country beyond. 

The S. branch forms a gulf very difficult of access, some 
50 rods up, and then suddenly ends at a beautiful fall 
known as the "Silver Cascade." Above this the stream is 
easily crossed, and its banks are low. This cascade can be 
seen to best advantage from the S. bank. 

WHETSTONE GULF, 

about 3 m. S. of Chimney Point, presents a greater amount 
and variety of scenery, and can be best viewed by passing 
through from the foot of the gulch upwards. Carriages can 
be driven about i m. up the ravine, which continues nearly 
2 m. farther. As we go up this gorge, the timber disappears 
and the banks become very steep, with numerous sharp 
turns, presenting new points of interest at every step. The 
walls approach nearer in the upper portions, until both may 
be reached by the outstretched arms, and the torrent is 
compressed into a deep, narrow chasm that forbids further 
progress without great difficulty. There are safe climbing- 
places near the head of the gulf, and the scenery from the 
bank, especially on the N. side, is fine. This can be seen 
without fatigue or danger by those who do not wish to en- 
dure the exertion of climbing. At one point a tiny cascade 
falls the whole distance from the top, like a white ribbon, 
and almost wastes itself in spray before reaching the bot- 
tom. Snow lies in this gulf well into the summer. 

Travelers by railroad can best visit this scenery by stop- 
ping at Lowville, whence it is 6 m to Chimney Pt. and 7 
m. to Whetstone Gulf. No hotel accommodations have 
been provided at either place, but a visit to both could be 
made in one day, without difficulty or danger. To the 
geologist they present a rare interest, from the fossils of the 



NUMBER FOUR. 



95 



Utica slate and Lorraine shales, which they contain in 
abundance. 

whittaker's falls, 

one mile S. E. of Martinsburg Village (on the same stream 
as Chimney Point) in their passage down the face of a 
ledge of limestone, form a very romantic scene. The rocks 
have many fossils peculiar to the Trenton limestone. The 
geologist by following the stream down some 2 m. farther 
to Martinsburg Station, will pass over this rock, the Black 
River limestone, a thin stratum of Potsdam sandstone and 
the gneiss or " primitive " rock so called, although itself 
stratified, evidently at a later period. Near the bottom of 
this limestone series, are strata from which water lime is made. 

HIGH FALLS 

are on Deer River, i^ m. below Copenhagen. The stream 
here makes a nearly vertical leap of 166 ft., into a chasm 
of limestone rock. The S. bank is 225 ft. high. By a rug- 
ged but not difficult path, a view may be obtained from be- 
low. On the N. side of the cascade, the rock presents a 
very steep inclination. It has been broken away, leaving a 
succession of small, narrow steps with slight projections, 
where the visitor may creep along a considerable distance 
up the bank, but not without imminent danger. Several 
instances have occurred of persons climbing to the top by 
this perilous way; and once a man of steady nerve passed 
from above down safely; foolishly venturing where the 
slightest slip would have been fatal. 

KINGS FALLS, 

two and ^ m. farther down this stream, form a cascade 
about 40 ft. high, of rare beauty. They were named in 
compliment to Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Naples and of 
Spain, by whom they were visited and much admired. 
(Franklin B. Hough.) These falls are eminently worthy 
of the attention of the tourist, and should not be over- 
looked. They are most conveniently reached by daily stage 
from Carthage, 5 m. distant; fare, 50 cts. 

* * * * * *** 

Two routes extend from Lowville to Number Four ; one 
uniting with the Martinsburg route, at Watson, 3 m. dis- 



g6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

tant; and the other leading via Smith's Landing, 2 m. dis- 
tant ; and thence to Dayansville, 3 m. ; Crystal Lake, 1 1 % 
m ; No. Four, 4% m.; merging into the Martinsburg route 
7 m. from Watson. Total, 21 m. The latter road though 
the longer of the two (3 m.) is smoother and less sandy. 

Entering the clearing and passing on ^ of a mile, we 
arrive at the Fenton House, a most suitable resort for those 
not desirous of camping out, and who, without leaving the 
R. R, more than a score of miles behind, would yet enjoy all 
the advantages in the way of the "line and the chase," that 
first-class sporting grounds afford. This explains why No. 
4 has become such a popular rendezvous. 

Says W. Hudson Stephens of Lowville, in his admirable 
historical pamphlet published in 1864: — 

"To realize No. 4 is to seek and find repose — exclusion and without 
care — from the treadmill of labor, the anxieties of politics, the perplexi- 
ties of traffic, and from the chain-like task of a weary and overtasked 
brain. 

" The first settler in the vicinity of No. 4 is believed to have been 
Ephraim Craft, who made a clearing in 1820 on the Champlain road, on 
the S. side of Beaver R., beyond the present Fenton House. No traces 
of this ancient clearing are now perceptible. 

"One Lippincott first bought and lived one season at No. 4 in a 
stockade of upright sticks, between Francis and Beaver Lakes. 

"As in remote localities in new countries, inducements were pre- 
sented to the earlier settlers. In 1822 Gov. John Brown Francis of 
Rhode Island, the successor of his grandfather, John Brown, in the 
ownership of the famous " Tract " of which No. 4 was one of the 8 
original townships, (Unanimity) offered a farm of 100 acres to the first 
ten men who would locate there. The adequate number speedily came. 
Following the ten pre-emptioners, other settlers came in shoals and 
schools. They presented as varied character of usefulness and merit, 
as the fish abounding in their streams and lakes. Orrin Fenton followed 
in 1826, and in 1835 the population had reached about 75. After this, 
becoming discouraged with the coldness of the climate, the unproduc- 
tiveness of the soil, and their absolute failure to obtain even a comfort- 
able livelihood in the untamable wilderness, one by one these pioneers 
removed to more inviting localities ; until this forest hamlet with all its 
improvements was nearly deserted, and the clearing originally compris- 
ing more than 1,000 acres, has since gone gradually back to its primitive 
condition. Here in this wild and lonely spot, Fenton and his busy 
house- wife lived for nearly 40 years, until his head was whitened with 
the snows of 79 winters. 

' WTiile years 
Have puslied his bride of tlie woods, witli soft and inoffensive pace, 
Into tlie stilly twiliglit of her age.' 



I 



THE FENTON HOUSE. 97 

*' With an intimate knowledge of every locality within miles, the run- 
ways of deer, the haunt of bear and panther, and resort of game ; the 
discoverer of lakes and streams, fish-holes, beaver meadows and wind- 
falls ; a faithful disciple of Walton — he quietly pursued the gentle avo- 
cations of fisherman and hunter, (keeping his house open to the public 
in the meantime) remote from busy haunts, and secluded beyond most 
men from the world, far beyond the average of life." 

Few men have made a better record than he; and his 
mantle has fallen upon the equally worthy shoulders of his 
son Charles, who continues to cater to the wants of the 
public* Thus this famous hostelry, one of the most impor- 
tant in all the region, has been conducted by this family 
for nearly three-fourths of a century. What a record in 
hotel-keeping! The Fenton House, from a small and rude 
beginning, has grown into an extensive villa. In addition to 
the main structure, a large building (60 x 3 2) 2 ^ stories high, 
has been erected. The entire lower floor serves as a grand 
drawing-room for the guests. In this great hall, warmed 
by a huge fire-place and lighted by showy chandeliers, vari- 
ous kinds of amusements, including dancing and dramatic 
performances, are enjoyed by the visitors. Connected with 
the house are supplementary buildings, including a store, 
(well stocked with all kinds of supplies) and a post-office ; 
and clustered near are many substantial cottages, offering 
pleasant accommodations. A well, with a venerable sweep, 
supplies the house with some of "the best water in the 
world." The table offers every variety and is proverbially 
excellent. Charles Fenton, an accomplished sportsman, 
reliable woodsman, and a true lover of nature, is eminently 
popular with his guests, and few men are better qualified 
for managing such an establishment. (P. O. Number Four.) 

From the veranda and cupola of the hotel proper we en- 
joy a charming prospect of the sparkling waters of Beaver 
L., (lying about 140 ft. below) and a vast amphitheatre of 
densely wooded hills overlooked by distant and lofty peaks. 
The sight frequently witnessed in the early morning when 
the fog rises from this pretty lake and " daintily lifts its 
skirts from the mountains and picks its way over their sum- 
mits," is one of the fairest imaginable. 

There are so many delightful places of interest within 
easy reach of Fenton's, that a tarry there neve r becomes 
* We tender Mr. Fenton our earnest thanks for important information. 



98 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

monotonous. Among these, the following should be 
noted : — 

Beaver Lake {i^ x ^), an expansion of Beaver R., is 
attained by a pleasant descending path (^ m.) partially- 
shaded by evergreen and other wild trees. Although in 
full view of the hotel, it is the frequent resort of deer. 
Near it, (S.) are Woodwardia and Beaver Ponds. 

By rowing down the lake (i m.) to its outlet, N. W., and 
following thence r. N., a path i^ m.. Crooked Lake or Lake 
Agan is reached. Distance from Fenton's, 3^ m. This 
is an unattractive sheet, so far as beauty of surroundings is 
concerned, but it has long been famed for the quantity 
and quality of its trout; though it has been overfished, and 
but few are taken nowadays after June 15th. Size of the 
lake, 1 1^ m. x 20 rods, and ignoring its large, crescent- 
shaped bay, it is as straight as an arrow; hence its very 
appropriate name (.?). It is the favorite fishing ground of 
Patrick H. Agan, Esq , of Syracuse, N. Y , a gentleman 
who has furnished many interesting papers relative to this 
section, and who had much to do with the introduction of 
the measures adopted to preserve the Adirondack Wilder- 
ness from the hands of the spoiler. In fact, he may well be 
regarded as the father of that movement.* 

A trail leads E. from Crooked L. to the Moshier Ponds. 

To visit Sand L., a charming little pond (^ x Yz) lying 
i^ m. farther N , and a favorite locality for deer hunting, 
row the length of Crooked L. (r ^ m.) and follow the trail 
leading from the head of that sheet. It has no trout. Its 
outlet is Fish Creek. Panther Bay is a remarkable resort 
for deer; and panthers, it is said, are occasionally heard 
there yet. About 35^ m N. is Long P., of the Oswegatchie 
group. (See Route Eleventh}) i^ m. N. E. are the two 
Spring P's (small) ; and not far W. are Upper and Lower 
Fish Creek Ponds. 

Those who would " float " with almost certain success, 
will paddle down Beaver River, to the large rock just below 
the portage to Crooked L., bridge their boat from this rock 
to another a few feet away, shoot the little rapids thence to 
the Stillwater beyond, and there obtain their venison. 

* Mr. Agan, once a confirmed invalid, is another living proof of the curative 
qualities helonging to this health-restoring region. 



EAGLE FALLS. 



99 



By descending the stream a short distance farther (2^ 
m. from Beaver L ), passing over three intermediate carries 
0-) of 3' 30 ^'^d 70 rods, respectively, access is gained to 
one of the wildest and grandest scenes of the Tract, name- 
ly: Eagle Falls, (20 ft,). The circumstance of a pair of the 
"winged Arabs of the air," having built for a succession of 
years, their eyrie on a cliff overhanging this charming cas- 
cade, suggested the name. This is justly a favorite excur- 
sion from the hotel. 

Francis Lake (1^ x i^), i m. S. E. of Fenton's, is still 
quite a deer haunt ; not noted for trout. Rather pretty. 

In Burnt Creek, outlet of Bell's P., (near Francis L., S. 
E.) there is a remarkable trout-pool, called "Burnt Spring 
Hole." It is about 3 m. S. W. of Fenton's, and is reached 
via the ^/c/ Watson road, 2^ m., and path, (1.) ^ m. 

Two m. S, E. of that is the excellent trout stream, Pine 
Creek. 

One or 2 m. S. E. of Bell's P., is Panther Pond. 

Alder Creek, entering Beaver R. just above the Crooked 
Lake carry, is a fine trout stream. It is navigable y^ n^- 
In the vicinity of its headwaters. Pepperbox P., &c., is the 
Seven Mile Meadow, (reached by hay road and blazed 
line) which is a favorite resort of the angler. 

Meadow Brook ^ m. W. of Fenton's, and Sunday Creek 
and Slough Brook in the immediate neighborhood, also 
afford good sport. 

A lumber- road leads from No. 4 to "Botchford's Tan- 
nery " (11 m.). From there it is 4^ m. to Otter L. (See 
p. 87.) 

Distances from Number Four to Lake Lila {Smith's Lake). 

MILES. 

To Francis Lake, by road, - i 

5 



Sunday Creek, 
Hog's Back, 
Lizard Spring, 
Stillwater, 
Loon Lake, 
South Branch, 
Little Rapids, 



6 

8 
II 

20M 



lOO THE ADIRONDACKS. 





MILES. 


Thence by River, _ - . 


134 


Portage, . - 


K 


River,* 


v^ 


Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (Albany Lake), 


4 


River, - - - - 


Yi 


Portage, 


Vb 


River, . . _ - 


1% 



Total, - - - - 303^ 

The principal road into the Wilderness from No. 4, " the 
old Carthage road," is kept open and unobstructed as far 
as Little Rapids (branch load) (20^ m.); beyond this to 
Brandreth's L. (71/^ m.) wagons are no longer available, as 
the bridges intervening are either swept away or in no con- 
dition to be crossed. Parties occasionally, when the water 
is high (intent upon desperate adventure^ take boats at 
Beaver Lake for ascending the river. In this case, should 
they wish to tarry and fish on the way, bark camps, located 
I m. and 2 m., and also 5 or 6 m. above the lake, will af- 
ford them comfortable shelter for a night. Beginning with 
Big or High Falls (40 ft.) 2 m. above Beaver L., there are 
sixteen or eighteen distinct falls and rapids between that 
point and Stillwater; about 10 m. beyond, by the winding 
of this tortuous stream. Much of the scenery, especially 
that near the High Falls, reminds one of the far-famed 
Watkins Glen or Ausable Chasm, It is the common prac- 
tice, however, to follow the road ; the able-bodied traveling 
afoot, as it is so rough in places that the ride to Stillwater 
(11 m.) is far from enjoyable. 

Lying S. of the road between No. 4 and Stillwater, are 
Sunday, Keefer's and Abortive Ponds. Fourth Creek, out- 
let of latter, is a fine trout-stream. 

From a point about 4 m. above Beaver L., a blind trail 
extends from the river N. 3 m to the four Moshier Ponds.f 

* Or road (2 m.) from Little Eapids to foot of Ne-lia-sa-ne (Albany) Lake. 

t These small ponds were named after theii' discoverer, John G. Moshier, 
the distmguished sportsman residing at Lowville. They are most conven- 
iently reached from No. 4, by trail N. E. 5 m. Theu' warm and shallow waters 
contain no trout. The "100 Acre" P. and several other ponds lie near them : 
and Bear and Pepperbox P's some distance W. 



BEAVER RIVER CLUB. lOI 

These waters, being seldom disturbed, are the common 
resort of deer. This is equally applicable to numerous 
other lakes and lakelets usually well supplied with trout, 
lying still deeper in the wilderness. Hence the peculiar 
attractiveness of this particular section as a sporting terri- 
tory. 

Perhaps 7 m. farther up the stream (^ m. below Still- 
water), a path is taken also N. to another and larger group 
of ponds, styled the "Eleven Lakes," from i to 8 m. dis- 
tant. These include the North Creek Chain, embracing 
Lower North L., Big or Upper North L., and others, 
forming the pretty little stream, North Creek, flowing into 
the Beaver, 

The first one of any importance is Kettle Hole P., 2 m. 
from the river. Carry from Kettle Hole P, i^ m, N, E, 
to Lower North h. {% x }(), now generally called Shallow 
pr Raven Lake: a handsome, shallow sheet; thence i m, N, 
E, to Big North L. (i x ^) usually termed Long L, and 
possessed of considerable attraction; thence ^ m, N, E, to 
Cold or Bear L, (^ x )^) a lovely, crystalline loch flowing 
into the Middle Branch of Oswegatchie River, Almost 
touching its southern shore (^ m.) is Dog Pond. North 
of Cold Lake i^ m. is Humbug P,; ^ m. N. E. are the two 
Silent Ponds; )^ m. E. is Secret (Leonard) Pond; 3 miles 
E. is Hawk (Emerald) Lake, and 2 m. S. W. is charming, 
island-gemmed Lake Sunshine (% x ^). 

From here it is i m. S, of E. to Raven L. and 1 5^ to 3 
m, W, to the Moshier Ponds, 

Muskrat P, is a short distance S. W. of Raven Lake. 

Evergreen L., belonging to the "Chain," lies i m. E. of 
Kettle Hole Pond. (See p. 108.) 

These diversified waters are usually reached by carries. 

Trout are rarely found in the North Creek Chain ; but 
deer are frequently killed on the borders. 

Stillwater-on-the-Beaver is really where navigation 
commences with parties passing up toward the headwaters 
of this stream. At this important point on a commanding 
plateau is located the Beaver River Club House, for many 
years successfully run as a hotel. The Club is incorporated 
and is limited to fifty members. The present trustees are 



102 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Rev. Henry R. Lockwood and S. C. Hayden of Syracuse, 
R.. J. Richardson of Lowville, R. H. Smith of Little Falls, 
and W. D. Moshier of Utica. 

The following are the charter members: 

N. L. Phipps, C. M. Raymond, Park M. Wooley, A. H. 
Hatfield, D. L. Daly, of New York City; Rev. H. R. Lock- 
wood, Dr. J. W. Candee,* Frank H. Wells, W. P. Good- 
elle and S. C. Hayden, of Syracuse, N. Y.; Chas. W. Wicks, 
Lester Griffith, Geo. B. Starbuck, John C. Hoxsie, Edward 
Kirkland, Chas. Moshier, W. D. Moshier, E. R. Comstock 
and H. L. Herley, of Utica, N. Y.; J. G. Moshier, A. C. 
Boshart, S. B. Richardson, R. J. Richardson, W. H. Morri- 
son and John D. Moore, of Lowville, N. Y.; A. K. Hale, of 
Adams, N. Y.; J. H. Tamblin, of Copenhagen, N. Y.; R. H. 
Smith and W. T. Loomis, of Little Falls, N. Y.; and Samuel 
E. Gary, of E. Orange, N. J. 

The property comprises the main building, several cot- 
tages, (many more are to be erected) and about 200 acres 
of land formerly owned by the well-known "Joe" Dunbar. 
A lease has been secured of 8,000 acres adjacent, and 
15,000 or 20,000 acres additional will doubtless be acquired. 
This choice sporting ground nearly touches the famed Mid- 
dle Branch of Oswegatchie River at the north, and joins 
the Webb preserve on the east. It embraces part of the 
Red Horse Chain, most of the North Creek group, a great 
extent of Beaver River (15 to 18 m.), and a number of 
other inviting waters. As a fishing and hunting center, 
Stillwater has long been famous and continues to maintain 
that reputation. 

The principal structure has been fashioned anew to meet 
the requirements of the members, and the premises gen- 
erally have been greatly improved. At present, transient 
guests are furnished with good entertainment at the club- 
house, and sporting privileges, with reasonable restrictions 
are granted them. 

Beaver River Station on the Adirondack & St. Law- 
rence R. R. is only 6^4 miles distant. There travelers will 
be met by conveyances, if notice has been given in advance 

* The autlior desires to express his acknowledgments to Dr. J. Willis Can- 
dee, of Syracuse, for Important Information fm-nlshed by Mm relative to this 
section and the Oswegatchie waters. 



THE HERMITS OF STILLWATER. IO3 

of their arrival; or they may take the steamer for Stillwater, 
at Beaver River Landing, one mile from the railroad sta- 
tion. The house has telephone connection with Lowville 
and Beaver River Station. (Post Office, Number Four.) 

Stillwater P. at this place, though assuming the form of 
a pretty little lake, is really an outgrowth of the river. 

A few rods east of the Club House, Twitchell Creek, 
(the outlet of Twitchell L.), a crystal trout-stream, with its 
series of delightful cascades, enters the Beaver. 

Two m. S. of this point rises Stillwater Mt. (path to sum- 
mit) whose southern base is laved by the waters of Hitch- 
cock L., while Hitchcock P. lies at the foot on the N. E. 
side. The path from the house to the top of this elevation 
(3 m. distant) passes through the border of a swamp, so 
closely set with evergreen trees as to form a thicket nearly 
impenetrable to man. This morass is a wonderful breed- 
ing-ground for deer. The summit of the eminence affords 
an admirable survey of the surrounding country, — forests, 
mountains, lakes and streams revealing themselves in every 
direction. 

Years ago, about 1820, Smith, the Hermit, located at this sequestered 
place, (Stillwater) and remained until encroaching hunters drove him 
still farther from civilization (1830). (See Smith's L or Lake Lila.) 
He was succeeded about 14 years later by another equally singular re- 
cluse, Jimmy O'Kane, who dwelt here in solitude until his death in 
1858. He died alone in his shanty, and a rude wooden monument 
marks his resting-place. 

" Found dead and alone! 
Nobody heard his last faint groan, 
Or knew when his sad heart ceased to beat ; 
No mourner lingered with tears or sighs, 
But the stars looked down with pitying eyes, 
And the chill winds passed with a wailing sound 
O'er the lonely spot where his form was found." 



Beaver River, {Ind., Ne-ha-sa-ne^ "beaver crossing stream 
on a log,") is 80 or 90 m. long, and from its extreme source, 
within 100 rods of Beach's Lake (Trout Pond), and within 
5 or 6 m. of Raquette Lake, flows in a southwesterly direc- 
tion, in a line nearly parallel with that of Moose River; It 
drains, in its passage, 70 or 80 handsome lakes and ponds, 
and discharges its waters into the Black River, some 8 m. 



I04 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

below Lowville, near Castorland. Fifty miles of its course 
is buried in a dense, unbroken wilderness, rarely trodden 
by the foot of man. But several habitations in all this ex- 
tent, indicate any encroachment upon its primitive charac- 
ter. Throughout most of this distance, the scenery in- 
vesting its borders is full of wildness; ofttimes of beauty. 
The foliage lining the stream, in various places, is almost 
tropical in its luxuriance. 



NE-HA-SA-NE PARK. 

Dr. W. Seward Webb is the owner of the most extensive 
game preserve in this or any other country. It lies mostly 
in the counties of Herkimer and Hamilton, and embraces 
250,000 acres — 40,000 acres more than the famous " John 
Brown's Tract " contained. Within its limits are the fol- 
lowing bodies of water : — 

Albany (Ne-ha-sa-ne), Big Moose, Cascade, Clear 
(Fall), Crooked, First and Second (North Branch), Gull, 
Grigg's, Little Rock, Loon, Lost, Moss, Oven, Panther, 
Partlow, Red Horse Chain (Clear, Nigger and Witch Hop- 
ple), Rock, Sand, Silver, Smith's (Lila), Terror, Thayer's, 
Twitchell, Wolf and Wood's Lakes ; and Arthur, Beaver, 
Bub's, Covey, East, Five, Game, Green, Hackmetack, Har- 
rington, Higby Twins, Lily, Marenus, Moose, Oswego, Ot- 
ter, Raynor, Rock, Rose, Sis, Slender, South, Thirsty, 
Trout, Twitchellette, Two Sisters, West and Wild Goose 
Ponds. Also numerous streams — the principal one being 
Beaver River. 

To the larger portion of this vast area (133,000 acres) 
Dr. Webb has given the name of Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. We 
have been informed that it is his intention to have a belt 
cleared 100 ft. in width, completely encircling the park, 
whose circumference is upwards of 60 miles. This will 
serve to prevent forest fires. On the inner border of this 
clearing a ribbon-wire fence will be constructed impenetra- 
ble to dogs and other animals. To the game already 
abounding, he will add a number of moose; not to be 
hunted within 5 or 8 years. A competent superintendent 
and mxany assistant forest-wardens will have charge of the 



NE-HA-SA-NE PARK. IO5 

park, and Prof. B. E. Fernow, Chief of the Forestry Bureau 
of the United States, will occupy the position of grand 
forester. Thus, carefully protected and managed, this 
great domain — mostly clothed with virgin forest, teeming 
with moose, deer, ducks, partridges, and other game ; its 
numerous waters, with brook and lake trout — will be truly 
an Ideal Sportsmen's Preserve. 



From Stillwater to Little Rapids there is a reach of nav- 
igation of 20 or 22 miles, uninterrupted save occasionally 
by a fallen tree over which boats must be lifted. On ac- 
count of the sinuosity of the stream, most tourists prefer 
the land route, even at the expense of a wearisome journey. 
The ride or walk, however, is one of considerable enjoy- 
ment. Admitting that the corduroys and other rough bits 
of road encountered are not very agreeable; yet the wild 
beauty of the woods — the route lying largely through an 
avenue of delicate evergreens silvered by the fairy birch 
and forming a fragrant and delightful arcade— should fully 
atone for the discomfort our bones and muscles have to 
undergo. 

Let us examine the different points of interest embraced 
by both routes, and first the one by land : 

1. 

Two and one-half m. beyond Stillwater, a path leads to 
the r. from the road, ^ m. to Mud P. ^ m. long. 

Loon Lake, lying within 20 r. of the road (1.), is a beauti- 
ful little sheet ^ m. 1 , whose outlet empties into Beaver 
River. A handsome, pine-tree-covered island of 4 acres, 
called Round Island, rises near its center. Though often 
visited by hunters, it is still frequented by deer, and trout 
are abundant in its waters. Here was located the noted 
**Rock Shanty," so named from a large boulder forming 
the back of this woodland shelter (4^ m. from Stillwater). 

Wood's, or Sylvan Lake (^ x 54^), is reached by trail 
from Mud P.; or from the road, }( m. W. of Loon L ; the 
trail passing near Lily P. Distance, 2^ m. S. Some pro- 
nounce this charming lough, ''the lake of the woods." It is 



I06 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

indeed a gem of beauty set in the emerald forest. Its 
waters — almost as transparent as air — teem with speckled 
trout, and the shores are the common resort of deer. At 
the head is a large, smooth, natural lawn, where cranberry 
vines abundantly grow. Near the foot, a peculiar rock 
lifts its summit above the surface. A trail leads to Twitch- 
ell L. 4 m. S.; passing Oswego P. (3 m.) The Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R. nearly touches the eastern side of 
Sylvan Lake. 

The old route to Big Moose Lake, S. E., offering the 
advantage of perfect solitude, leaves the State road i^ m. 
E. of Loon L. It was formerly traveled by pack-horses, 
but the road is partially grown over now and is but little 
used. Twitchell Lake lies on the way, 6 m. from the main 
road. The better route leads from South Branch i^ m. 
farther E., as follows: Road, 2 m.; thence path to Twitch- 
ell L., 5 m.; thence by boat, ^ m.; thence carry ^ m. to 
Mud P.; thence carry 25^ m. to Big Moose L. Total, 10^ 
m. This is passable for pack-horses as far as Twitchell 
Lake. (See p. 73). 

Twitchell L. (2 x ^), is an interesting body of water, 
beautified by several islands and islets, and encircled by 
densely wooded heights. Far from the beaten line of travel, 
it is wild and lonely enough to satisfy the most retiring 
anchorite. It received its unpoetic title from a settler, re- 
joicing in that name, who once made a clearing near by. 
Its outlet, flowing over a rocky ledge, forms a pretty cascade 
(10 ft.). This, and Wood's L., are especially sequestered, 
and their solitudes have been seldom invaded except by the 
trapper and adventurous sportsman. The scenery around 
them is very attractive, and but for the difficulty in reach- 
ing them with boats, they would soon become favorite 
haunts, as game and fish are always plentiful* Both are 
tributary to Twitchell Creek, a stream entering the Beaver 
a few rods E. of Stillwater. (See p. 103.) 

Hiram Burke (P. O. Lowville), the very efficient guide, 
has a substantial hunting lodge on the N. shore of Twitch- 
ell L., where sportsmen, we believe, are still entertained 

* TWs was before this district was Invaded t>y tlie railroad. 



SOUTH BRANCH. 



107 



and furnished with the best fare that the forest affords. 
When desired, he will conduct his guests (no better woods- 
man than he) to the various fine sporting grounds in the 
neighborhood, providing permission is granted by Dr. 
Webb. 

In the immediate vicinity, in different directions, are 
twelve or fifteen tiny ponds; usually swarming with large 
trout, and gleaming like gems in their solitary fastnesses 
amid the deep green of the forest. These include Silver, 
Oswego, Arthur, Mud, Marenus, East, South, Otter, Buck, 
Thirsty, Sunshine, Hackmetack and Twitchellette. 

The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. passes near 
Twitchell L. (Big Moose Station). 

'* South Branch," a pleasant clearing watered by the stream bearing 
that name, is a well known locality to the old-time frequenters of this 
portion of the Wilderness. For many years it was the abiding place of 
the famous guide, trapper and hunter, Chauncey Smith, of Number 
Four. Many were the recipients of his hospitality. His " Elk Horn 
Shanty" was indeed an "oasis" to many a weary traveler who called on 
his way to or from the headwaters of the Beaver. Uncle Chauncey has 
gone to the "Happy Hunting Grounds," we trust, and his cabin has since 
become a wreck. Another woodsman, and most eccentric recluse, Carl 
Hough, afterward made his abode near this spot, and lived in seclusion 
for several years, following his occupation of trapper and hunter. In 
his neat little bark camp, Carl cordially welcomed all who applied for 
shelter or information. In woodcraft he is an expert, and none under- 
stands the forest better than he. He was succeeded by Harris ; and it 
rests with Dr. Webb to say whether this hermit of the forest will be al- 
lowed to remain in Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. Beaver River Station, on the 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. is near this point. 

At the confluence of E. and S. Branch; the former flow- 
ing from Rose P. and Terror L. not many miles distant and 
the latter from Wild Goose and Moose P's, still deeper in 
the heart of the forest; S. E. of Harris' cabin, perhaps J^ 
m., is a notable spring-hole. Here, the fisher rarely throws 
his fly in vain. Two m, beyond South Branch, the road 
divides; the 1. leading to Little Rapids (^2 m.) ; and the r. 
the Carthage road, to Beach's L., (7^^ m ). From the lat- 
ter route, 2 to 4 m. beyond the forks, footways lead N. to 
Thayer's Lake, and S. to Rose and Deer Ponds, lying near 
the road, and to Terror, etc.. Lakes, more remote. {See 
route from Albany Lake to these waters?) 



I08 THE ADIRONDACKS. 



2. 

One mile above Stillwater the outlet of Tuttle L. (^ x 
}{) enters the river, (I.); and up this stream we pass with a 
boat ^ m. to reach that unimportant sheet. 

From the river, near the outlet of Tuttle I^ , we carry i 
m. N. to Peaked Mt. L. (^ x j{); generally the home of a 
colony of hedgehogs. From near the same point (on the 
river) a carry leads i ^ m. N. to the captivating Hanks' P. 
(i^ X }i), and another i^ m. N. of E. to Evergreen L. (i 
X i^), a crystal gem in emerald setting, sparkling on the 
crown of a nameless mountain, i m. E. of Kettle Hole P. 
It is within easy reach of the club-house : first a pleasant 
boat-ride, and then a ramble over a good, gently-ascending 
path conveying us to the spot. It is a favorite resort, es- 
pecially of ladies, on account of its beauty and accessibility 
and is the objective point of many a picnic excursion. 

Two miles above the Tuttle L. outlet, a carry leaves the 
river (1.) for Fish P.; so called because it contains no fish. 

One and i ^ m. farther up the stream, a path is taken 
(r.) to Little Burnt Lake (^ x ^), only 5 or 6 r. distant. 

Half a mile above this (5 m. from Stillwater) there is an 
artificial canal (called the "Dutch Gap") 4 rods long, which 
saves y2 m. of paddling around a bend of the river, usually 
well filled with drift wood. 

Two m. above that, a stream empties into the Beaver, (1.) 
flowing from a series of 12 or 15 lakes and ponds, N., 
termed the "Red Horse Chain,"* offering very attractive 
scenery. These are regarded as superior fishing and hunt- 
ing localities, and are reached with boats over passable 
portages, as follows : — Carry to Burnt L. (| x |), y^ m.; a 
comely sheet, until forest-fires converted the surroundings 
into a dreary, burnt waste. Carry thence to Little Round 
or Trout P. (i^ x ^), % m.; thence from W. side of inlet 
i| m. to Salmon L., {x}^ x ^). This lake is hemmed in by 
mountain-peaks, and greatly admired for its picturesque 
features. Carry thence i^m. to Witchhopple L. (^ x yi)\ 
thence ^ m. to Clear L , (^ x 5^) — water exceeding pure, 

* Thus named from the rea-horse sucker at)Oundlng in an Inlet of one of 
these lakes. 



THE RED HORSE CHAIN. IO9 

and "fat" with trout ; shores rocky and romantic. One of 
its inlets affords remarkable sport. 

Crooked I.. ( 2 x i^), fountain head of Oswegatchie 
River, distinguished for its numerous big trout, is reached 
from Clear L. by a J m. portage leading North; Mud-hole, 
sometimes called Summit P. because it lies on the water- 
shed between the Beaver and Oswegatchie waters, lying 
midway. It is a wonderful deer resort. 

Crooked L. is a lovely sheet of crystal clearness, mar- 
gined with bold and romantic shores, and embellished by 
several islands. Its shape is peculiar, approaching the form 
of a W. Two pretty ponds lie near it. Covey P. is ^ m. 
S. W. by carry. A trail leads from Crooked L. N. E. to 
the Oswegatchie and the Bog River waters. 

East of Crooked L. about 2 m. lies Nigger Lake (i}4 x 
}i) the uppermost link of the Red Horse Chain. It is en- 
veloped by scenery richly picturesque, and is considered 
the gem of the group; though each has its peculiar and dis- 
tinctive charm. Being extremely difficult of access, and 
therefore left almost entirely undisturbed by sportsmen, its 
borders are the frequent resort of deer, and its waters are 
amply stocked with portly trout, comprising both speckled 
and salmon. Some of the former attain the unusual weight 
of 3 lbs.; and the peculiarly dark color of the flesh of the 
latter, some say of the water, (shaded by walls of black 
spruce,) originated the name of the lake. Carry i^ m. W. 
to Clear Lake. 

About I J^ m. N. of Nigger L. is the interesting Oven L.; 
and 2}^ m. N E. (carry) is Gull L. (i x ^) noted for its 
romantic beauty and fine fishing. Deer Mt. and other pin- 
nacles overshadow its waters.* 

Crooked L. is 4% m. W.; Oven L. (^ x >^) i m. W.; and 
Little Deer P. i 5^ m. E. of Gull L. Cracker P. is about 2 
m. distant. 

A carry extends from Gull L. to Partlow L., lying about 
2 m. S. E. This sheet, also Gull, Oven, Little Deer and 

* "The Old Military Road" passes within a mile of Oven L. Remains of an 
oven, still discernilble, gave this sheet its name. The oven is said to have 
heen huilt by soldiers in the v^^ar of 1812 ; hut it is more reasonable to sup- 
pose that it was made by the builders of the road, or by surveyors to use in 
sheltering thetr instruments. 

10 



no THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Cracker, are sources of Oswegatchie R. Wolves still make 
this wild section their habitation. 

From Nigger L. it is 2 m. E. by carry to Partlow L., 
from which we carry 3 m. S. of E. to Lake Lila. 

From Nigger L. a marked line leads to Big Rock L. 
about 2 m. S. Between Nigger and Witchhopple L*s, S. 
W., lies Beaver Dam, or Goggle P., a fine deer resort and 
another link of the *'Chain"; and by this leads the carry 
(2 m.) connecting these two lakes. From Beaver Dam we 
may reach Big Rock L. by carrying 2 ra. S. E. 

North of Witchhopple L. are three little ponds; and E. 
of N. Yz m. by carry, is Little Rock L., an interesting rock- 
environed sheet with three islands. (Big Rock and Little 
Rock L's are not members of the Red Horse Chain.) 

Higby Twin P's lie about \% m. (carry) W. of Witch- 
hopple Lake. 

Bear or Hurricane P. is a short distance N. E. of Salmon 
Lake. 

From near the head of Salmon L. (little white birches 
marking the spot) a carry leads N. W. over a mountain i^ 
m. to Hav/k, or Emerald L. (i^ x i^). This "Lake of the 
Mountains" is so imprisoned within a circle of forest clad 
peaks as to form a charming picture. Deer are usually 
plentiful here. 

West of Hawk L. about 2^ m. is Secret or Leonard P., 
and yi m. W. of that is Bear or Cold Lake. (See p. loi.) 

North East of Hawk L. about 4 m., is Game Pond. 

From the foot of Hawk L. a blazed line leads to George 
L. 2 m. S. W. Some regard this as the best deer lake in 
the woods. Bear L. lies S W. of it. 

These last three lakes, and others near, were formerly 
called the Wolf Ponds, and they discharge into Beaver R. 

Nearly all of the waters just named ariorn the private 
property^ Ne-ha sa-ne Park. {^See following routes from 
Little Rapids and Albany Lake to the Red Horse Chain?) 

Near the mouth of the Red Horse stream, where a spring 
bubbles out of the sand, and the carry to Burnt L. is taken, 
usually stands a comfortable camp, frequently occupied for 
a night by parties passing up or down the Beaver. From 
the opposite side of the river a carry leads S. E., J^ m. to 
Loon L. South Branch, entering the river, r. about 15 m. 



LITTLE RAPIDS. Ill 

above Stillwater, affords good sport to the fisherman. By 
ascending this stream 50 or 60 rods and following a path 
thence r. V^ m. Harris's hermitage may be visited. (See 
p. 107.) 

Little Rapids, 5 m. beyond the mouth of South Branch, 
(carry r. ^ m.) is as important station on this route, as 
well as a central point from which to visit many interesting 
places in the vicinity. Here just above the seething waters 
of the river, is located the "Little Rapids Hotel ;" now closed 
to the public and used by one of Dr. Webb's forest-wardens. 
The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. crosses the 
stream a short distance from this spot and the station bears 
the name of Little Rapids. 

A sled-road leads hence N. 92 rods to Clear P. or Fall L. 
(^ X i^), a noted trout and deer resort; and one thence 
N. i^ m. to Big Rock L. (i^ x i/^), whose waters, though 
deep and cold, contain scarcely any trout, a strange excep- 
tion to the general rule. 

The bottom of the lake is thickly strewn with rocks; and 
ledges rise from the shores of Beaver Bay several hundred 
ft. high, whose perpendicular walls remind one of the Pali- 
sades of the Hudson. A rock-^xxAtdi island, but clad with 
evergreens, gems its surface, giving increased variety to the 
scenery. 

By following a trail, (starting at Beaver Bay,) 2 or 2^ 
m. N., Nigger L. is reached ; and other members of the 
Red Horse Chain are accessible from Rock Lake by way 
of Beaver Dam Pond, N. W. Only by the assistance of 
marked trees and compasses is it practicable to follow these 
rarely traveled pathways. (See p, 109.) 

Resuming our journey up the Beaver: — About \% m. 
above Little Rapids, near a sand-bar, (1.) where a little 
brook enters the river, is the most remarkable of the many 
spring-holes that furnish excellent trout fishing along this 
stream. One-half mile above that. Long Rapids are 
reached ; through which also the boats must be dragged, or 
carried, r. over the good portage, ^ m. There is a road 
from Little Rapids to this point (2 m.) Thence to Albany 
or Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake (>^ m.) navigation is considerably ob- 
structed by boulders. 

Big Moose Lake and the intermediate waters are some- 



112 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

times visited from this lake and from Little Rapids by the 
following route, starting from Beaver R. about i^ m. below 
the foot; a large rock marking the spot: — Rough carry, 
S. E. I m. to Thayer's Lake, formerly called "Aurora," (i 
X ys). This is a singular sheet, with handsome bays, but 
no islands. Discharges into Beaver R. It affords fair 
" deering " and trouting. Colonies of gulls have here their 
breeding place. 

Thence good portage S. i m. to Rose P. (^ x }£) (fine 
fishing and hunting in this section); the route crossing the 
Carthage road within 60 r. of it. Then fair carry S. 3 m. 
to Lake Terror (15^ x ^), where prime sporting ground is 
found — though better for deer than trout, as its seclusion is 
seldom penetrated by hunters, on account of the hardship 
attending such an excursion. (See p. 120 ) It received its 
name from an incident that occurred in the experience of 
two hunters, Chas. and Geo. Fenton, who were overtaken 
near its shores by a terrible storm and compelled to spend 
the night, without shelter, exposed to all its fury. The new 
carry ta Terror L. starts from the Carthage road about j{ 
m. E. of Rose P. This has been traveled by pack-horses. 

A "line" extends from Terror Lake, S. 3 m. to Big Moose 
Lake. (See p. 73.) 

Slim P. and a number of other sheets lying between Big 
Moose and Beach's Lakes, have hardly been explored, even 
by the enterprising trapper. 

Deer P. (Cedar L.) lies ^ m. S. of the Carthage road, 
2 m. E. of Rose P., and 4 m. from Little Rapids. Its shape 
is nearly circular {}4 x }4); and its cedar-fringed banks 
and emerald island invest it with a peculiar charm. Albany 
Mt. rises near. Two-pound, speckled trout are its chief 
commodities; and the quality of its water and lily pads is 
frequently tested by its namesake. 

Shingle Shanty L. (i x 'yi), % m. S., is reached by a good 
portage. It is a pleasant sheet, clear of rocks, and abound- 
ing in sma// trout and some deer. East of this is Unknown 
P.; and farther E. is Little Deer P. near Brandreth's Lake. 

West P. is about 1% m. N. E. of Shingle Shanty L.; 
whence it is ^ m. S. to Brandreth's Lake. 

The "Old Military Road" opened by the Government in 1812, be- 
tween some point on Lake George or Lake Champlain and Ogdensburg 



NE-HA-SA-NE LAKE. 



T3 



or Sackett's Harbor, for the purpose of transporting artillery and other 
munitions over it to the St. Lawrence, passes near Shingle Shanty L. and 
Deer P. An interesting relic in the form of a cannon has recently been 
unearthed in this vicinity; and at Albany L , 4^^or 5 m. from here, 
traces are still observed of the bridge once spanning the "narrows" of 
that sheet "Starting from Russell (St. Lawrence Co.) this road thread- 
ed the valley of Grass R., whence it diverged in a southerly direction 
towards the region of the lakes, penetrating the whole extent of the 
forest. It is said to have been originally laid out with considerable en- 
gineering skill. But only ore vehicle (unless gun-carriages may be 
termed such) ever passed over it. Now, it is a tangled yarn, and no 
twister ever twisted a twist like it." The route can be traced but with 
difficulty. The careful observer however may follow its devious course 
by noticing the evenness of size of the large yellow birches which thick- 
ly cover its line, and occasional remains of corduroys and causeways. 

It is evident that there were two of these roads, both 
being opened from Russell. The one leading to Lake 
George, touched Big Tupper Lake, Childwold Park and 
Long Lake. 

A rough carry extends also from near the outlet of Al- 
bany L., N. W. 2 m. to Big Rock L. A few rods E. of 
where this carry starts, at the mouth of Alder Creek, is an- 
other favorite spring- hole. The S. W. portion of the lake 
is known as Bull Frog or Lower Bay, and embraces about 
}i of its entire extent (5 x ^). (See p. iii.) 

Albany Lake, recently named Ne-ha-sa-ne by Dr. Webb, 
is especially attractive to sportsmen, for the reason that it 
is a remarkable resort for deer and large speckled and sal- 
mon trout. This is somewhat surprising so far as deer are 
concerned, as the lake is a common thoroughfare. But the 
rich aquatic pastures of pond lilies and grassy verdure that 
abound, especially on the Lower Bay, present a temptation 
which they are unable to resist. The upper portion of the 
lake, in direct contrast to that of the lower part, presents a 
pleasing variety of sandy reaches, rocky shores and wooded 
heights. It is singular in shape, being composed of three 
bays connected by narrow straits. 

Proceeding up the lake, we pause at the " bridge place " 
to examine what remains of the old structure. From this 
point, it is 4 m. S. E. to the Carthage road via the Military 
Road just named. The lake derived its name from the 
fact that this trail of Mars was sometimes called the '^Al- 
bany Road". 



114 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



A short distance above the "bridge" we pass a huge 
boulder that rises from the water, called Elephant Rock, from 
its resemblance to that animal; and passing Punkey or 
Panther Island, soon reach the neck connecting the two 
larger portions of the lake. 

By the smooth sandy beach on South Bay near E end of 
the lake was located the substantial "Maryland Camp," 
with two cold springs near. {Private property of Dr. 
Webb.) 

At the head of the little bay ("Perkins's Pt.") a short 
distance W. of the Maryland Camp, where a little brook 
(S. Inlet) discharges its waters, the most noted spring-hole 
of the section may be found. 

Shingle Shanty Stream, i ra. E., a famous deer and trout 
resort, is reached by a good carry, leading from the white 
sand beach a short distance E. of this camp. 

Leaving Ne-ha-sa-ne L , and passing up the inlet a few 
rods, the third rapids are encountered. (We will note here, 
"once and for all," that all such rapids in the region are 
the common haunts of trout.) Boats may at some risk and 
by great exertion be dragged up the stream here, but they 
are usually carried, 1. over the good portage, (road) ^ m. 

At the head of these rapids stands a dilapidated dam, 
built by order of the State about the year 1864, in fur- 
therance of a plan for improving the navigation of the 
Beaver, for the benefit of lumbering interests. An appro- 
priation of Ji 0,000 was made by the Legislature and was 
wasted in an abortive attempt to accomplish this object. 

A passage of i^ m. up the river from this point brings 
us to Smith's Lake, the queen of the Brown's Tract waters 
—recently denominated Lake Lila, by Dr. Webb in com- 
pliment to his wife. In attractiveness of surroundings, 
and its own bewitching beauty, many esteem it the peer 
of that pearl of the Adirondack waters. Blue Mt. Lake. It 
is certainly a worthy rival of that more celebrated sheet. 
It is (2^^ X 2%), and nearly cruciform in shape. 

It encircles seven or eight picturesque islands, upon one 
of which (Pine) traces of an Indian fortress are still ap- 
parent. 

Springs of deliciously cold water are found on the shores. 
Salmon trout weighing upwards of 20 lbs. are sometimes 



LAKE LILA. SMITH, THE HERMIT. 



115 



taken from the lake, and speckled trout of unusual size are 
also obtained. 

Pratt's Mt. (sometimes called Smith's Rock), named in 
honor of the late Judge Pratt of Syracuse, rises from the N. 
W. side. The tourist should ascend this bold and barren 
summit and survey the imposing scenery spread before 
him. The ascent is made with only a limited amount of 
toil. From the crown, the principal peaks of the Adiron- 
dacks, including Mt. Marcy and Blue Mt., are clearly per- 
ceptible, and the eye rests upon a scene more striking and 
beautiful than that surveyed from many loftier elevations. 

In the year 1830 an Englishman located at the base of 
this mountain, near the beach, and for a long period led a 
hermit's life, with no companions but his dogs and gun. 
Several acres of land were cleared by him, now covered by 
a thrifty growth of smallish trees. "None knew aught of 
his history, whence he came, to whom related, or by whom 
begot." One winter some hunters in pursuit of deer, upon 
visiting his lodge found it silent and deserted. From that 
day to this the mysterious stranger known as Smith, has 
never been seen — nor has anything been heard of his fate; 
and from that day to this, this lonely but lovely inland sea, 
surrounded on all sides by forests primeval, and nestled in 
the bosom of a group of lofty hills and picturesque moun- 
tains, has been known as Smith's Lake. — [James Grant 
Wilson.] (See p. 103.) 

The path we follow in ascending Pratt's Mountain, leads 
from Smith's clearing. 

It is said that once, while Smith was eating his dinner, a piece ot 
moose- meat lodged in his throat, which he could not remove. While 
in this predicament he was able to drink, but not to eat. Several days 
elapsed, and he was approaching starvation. His condition had be- 
come desperate. It was in the depth of winter and the wilderness. In 
the height of despair he laced on his snow-shoes and started for Num- 
ber Four, about 30 m. distant. After a weary and terrible journey, the 
horrors of which few can realize, he reached Fenton's, perfectly ex- 
hausted. He entered the house, and unbidden, staggered to the pan- 
try, seized a pan of milk, and had drank nearly all of its contents, when 
the meat suddenly left his throat and he was saved. 

On the N. W. shore, in a pleasant location, is " Smith's 
Lake House," no longer used as a hotel, but occupied by 



Il6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Dr. Webb's forest-wardens. Ne-ha-sa-ne Siation, on the 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. is in the vicinity. 

A short distance E. of the "hotel," at the Harrington 
spring-hole, the hard carry starts for Raynor or West P. 
(J X 5) 2 m N. It is prettily set in the midst of mountains ; 
and while it yields no trout, is frequently visited by deer. 

The Red Horse Chain is reached from Lake Lila via 
Partlow L. 3 m. N. W.; whence other most interesting 
waters in the neighborhood are visited. (See pp. 108-110.) 

The Tupper waters are accessible from Lake Lila by 
three routes. Two of them are indirect and difficult, but 
possess the advantage of passing through some of the best 
sporting grounds of the Brown's Tract region. 



1. 

Carry from mouth of North Inlet (first sand beach), }i 
m. N.; row up the outlet ^' m.; cross Harrington Pond ^ 
m.; thence carry from head of pond, i m. N.; cross Clear 
Pond (rightly named, but what is remarkable, containing 
no trout), % ni.; thence carry \ m. N; cross Bog Lake (i^ 
X Yz); thence carry from a point on N. side, about midway 
of its length, 3 m. N. (a rough and hilly portage); or de- 
scend the outlet, pushing your way most laboriously through 
interlocking alders that line this dismal stream, 4 m. to 
Mud Lake; thence to Big Tupper Lake, it is 17)^ m. 
{See route fr 0771 Tupper to Mud Lake.) 

Bog Lake ! What a misnomer ! as there is no marsh in the 
vicinity. It was formerly supposed to be the highest 
source of Bog River instead of Clear P., which is really the 
headwaters of th.it stream ; hence its name. Its shores are 
of the most romantic character; several bold promontories 
jutting into its waters and a picturesque island giving com- 
pleteness to the scene. It is indeed the liquid personifica- 
tion of beauty. No finer trouting (speckled) is found in 
that section than this lake affords. The Adirondack & 
St. Lawrence R. R. passes near. (Bog Lake Station.) 



CHARLEYS POND. II7 

2. 

Direct route : — Carry from the sandy beach N. E. shore; 

the place being indicated by a rocky point, upon which is 

a sparse and stinted growth of cedar trees. On one of 

these trees, serving as a guide board, is usually penciled: — 

" ^" Portage to Charley's Pond, \% m." 

This portage is quite uneven and considerably inter- 
rupted by fallen trees. 

A prettier sheet than Charley's Pond (^ x j^) is rarely 
seen. Perfectly sequestered, "with not a hand's breadth 
of civilization around it," it is a congenial spot for deer 
and trout. Its name was probably derived from the follow- 
ing incident, given by James Grant Wilson, in the language 
of one of his guides: — 

"Eight years ago I was out deer-hunting in the winter with two other 
men. At Charley's Pond, which was frozen over, Charley Brown said 
he was going across after a deer. We told him it was unsafe, but he 
would go, although the ice was thin and rotten, and, when about twen- 
ty yards from shore, he fell through. Both being heavier men, we were 
afraid to venture on the ice to aid him, but we threw him a pole, which 
he got hold of, and driving it into the muddy bottom of the lake, there 
about ten feet deep, climbed up on the ice, which again gave way un- 
der his weight. This he did several times until benumbed with cold; 
and unable to draw himself up, or even to hold on longer, he caught 
hold of the pole with his teeth. When I got back from our camp with 
a rope, and threw it out to him, he was too far gone to take hold of it, 
so I determined to save him at all hazards. I crawled out, lying flat on 
my face, and moving as cautiously as possible. Not a word" was said as 
I slowly moved forward, nearer, nearer, till at last I laid my hand in 
his. It was as cold as the ice on which I lay. Poor Charley was frozen 
to death ! Fastening the rope around him under the arm-pits, I cau- 
tiously and successfully made my way back, and we pulled him ashore 
with his teeth still fastened on the pole. We had a sad time getting 
poor Charley back to the still water," was the conclusion of the guide's 
short story of Charley's Pond. 

Some affirm that it was named after a man, who, on being drafted in 
the late war, fled to this wild solitude, thus practically placing himself 
beyond the reach of the law. Here, in a secluded spot, curtained with 
a dense thicket, he erected a rude hut (the ruins of which we have seen) 
and occupied it for several years, in self-imposed banishment from the 
world. {This section is within the limits ^/Ne-ha.-sa-ne Park ) 

Pass over about two-thirds the length of the pond, land 
r. E., just off those islands, and carry to Smith's Inlet (out- 



Il8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

let of the sheet), >^ m. Portage fair, but blind at com- 
mencement. The inlet is very shallow and narrow for the 
first 40 or 50 r., and boats must be towed. Thence to Lit- 
tle Tupper Lake, 3 m. it is passable boating. A notable 
spring-hole is located in this stream, about i m. above the 
lake on S. side, — a stake and a large pine log indicating the 
spot. Emerging from this stream. Little Tupper like a 
beautiful vision, lies before us. 



3. 

Pass up the S. E. Inlet, really Beaver River, entering 
Eldridge Bay. It is an extremely crooked stream, with its 
navigation considerably obstructed by "flood-jams." Avoid 
the branch, entering 1. several miles up. 4% m. above the 
lake, where the river divides, take the 1. hand stream ; r. 
branch leads into Deer, Little Rock, West and Shingle 
Shanty Ponds. Trout congregate at these forks. This 
branch, (Shingle Shanty Creek,) is larger than the main 
stream, and affords good navigation for 2 m. up. From 
time immemorial it has furnished trout-fishing of unsur- 
passed excellence. Deer also abound here. 

From the forks, boats are generally towed or poled % or 
^ m. to the portage (r.) of 30 rods. Bearing S. E., pass 
over Mud or Lily-pad Pond (5^ x ^), which is very irreg- 
ular in shape — really two sheets, connected by a short 
strait. The lower body is mostly covered with lily-pads, 
furnishing perfect feeding ground for deer. A wolf was 
killed here, just before the writer first visited it. Scenery 
generally very gloomy. Both salmon and speckled trout 
abound at mouth of inlet, entering r. S. E. Pass up this 
stream, 6 or 8 r. to the fair carry 1., of yi m. along the 
rapids. Camp at farther end. 

Follow stream again ^ m., dragging boats at commence- 
ment, to Little Salmon L. (^ x i^) — very pretty and se- 
cluded and presenting a scene of perfect wildness and weird 
loneliness.* Cross its S. E. portion and take inlet r. — stream 
straight and pleasant. Numerous tamarack trees serve to 

* A short distance E. of LUy-pad P. and Little Salmon L. are two nameless 
ponds. A caiTy leads from Little Salmon L. to Rock P., 2 m. N. E. 



BRANDRETH S LAKE. II9 

render the otherwise dismal swamp attractive. Proceed 
I ^ m , towing boat considerably ; carry 1 , ^ m. (blind) ; 
take the stream again — still shallow and narrow — ^ m. ; 
follow main channel ; as branches enter r. and 1. Forest 
here, clean and beautiful — ground carpeted with moss and 
furrowed by paths of wild animals; carry 1. }i m.; boating 
again 20 r ; carry over ridge 2 or 3 r. to Salmon or Jo- 
sephine Lake (2^ X j). This handsome body of water 
is one of the chief sources of the Beaver, and is en- 
compassed by mountains of moderate height, sloping 
gracefully to the shores. Camp on W. side. Salmon trout 
are very abundant here and of large size; some weighing 
30 lbs. Fish for them by the buoys. Lonesome P. lies i 
or 2 m. N. E. Carry from a point near outlet of Salmon 
L., up which our route to this lake lies, to Rock Pond, i ^ 
m. N. This is the noted "Murray Carry" — rough, swampy, 
and difficult. Cross the romantic waters of Rock Pond (2 
m.), with its golden beach, rock gwd^rdtd shores, and pine- 
clad island. Thence carry ^ m. from N. extremity around 
the falls and rapids in its outlet. Here the river plunges 
down through a wild ravine. Thence follow stream 3 m. 
to Little Tupper Lake. 

Route from Lake Lila to Beach's or Brandreth's Lake. 

To Salmon Lake the route is identical with that just 
given. Pass to the head of this lake, and up the deep and 
pleasant inlet bordered by the handsome tamarack, ^ m ; 
carry r. 1 ^ m. For a third of the way numerous prostrate 
trees obstruct the path ; middle portion smooth but 
swampy ; remainder of portage a perfect forest road, merg- 
ing into the Carthage road about ^ m. W. of the Brand- 
reth "Summer Shooting Box," situated at the head of 
Beach's, or more properly, Brandreth's Lake.* 



iw * Brandretlis' villa, consisting of 5 or 6 substantial buildings admirably 
fitted up with a view to all the requirements of woodland life, is deliglitfully 
located on a sliglit eminence gently sloping to a pleasant bay margined by an 
extended reacb of snowy sand, and commanding an extensive view of tne 
lake and surrounding country. 

^^W-This>ylran camp and the grounds are. no longer open to the public, as 
the privilege icas abused. Sportsmen will not trespass upon ttiis preserve, 
which embraces all of township d9—some 24,000 acres. 

We wisb to tender our tlianks for tlie rigbt royal hospitality once received 
here from the courteous proprietors. 



120 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The many charms presented by this sheet, elicit the ad- 
miration of all its beholders. Gentle elevations, alternat- 
ing with abrupt acclivities, completely encircle it. Bald 
Rock or Big Bluff rises in rugged prominence from the S. 
E. shore, its precipitous, hoary sides .glistening in the sun- 
light like the snowy locks of a mythical giant of fabulous 
times. West Mt., lifting its forest-clad heights towards the 
eastern sky, is revealed in the shadowy distance. Several 
islands and islets picturesquely grace the bosom of the lake, 
whose deep and crystalline waters are hardly surpassed in 
purity. Its size is generally over-estimated, it being only 
2^ m. long by ^ m. in breadth, according to actual sur- 
vey ; although if its two arms were included, its length 
would receive an additional mile. It is well supplied with 
fish ; salmon trout being caught with good success near 
Bear Point, around which the W. arm curves, and in the N. 
arm of the lake ; and speckled trout in the vicinity of Rock 
Island. We will proceed to note the other attractions that 
combine to render this comely lake one of the most desira- 
ble centers for sporting purposes in the Wilderness. Sev- 
eral lakelets — admirable fishing and hunting localities — are 
easily accessible from "Brandreths' villa." 

East Pond (^ x i^), a charming water, is reached by 
following the road, i}{ m. S. E., and then the path diverg- 
ing 1. 1 20 rods, or by boating down the lake about ^ m., 
landing on E. shore and proceeding thence by path per- 
haps % m. E. To reach Trout or Little Rock Pond {% x 
i^), follow the path that leads from the road a few rods E. 
of the clearing, ^ m. N. To visit West Pond (i/{ x ^), 
(formerly called Middle Lake) row up the W. arm of the 
lake % m., land r. and pass over the good portage ^ m. N. 

From the W. extremity of this pond, a trail leads 2^ m. 
N. W. to Thayer's Lake ; and another leads directly W. 
i^ m. to Deer Pond; and still another to Shingle Shanty 
L., 1 1^ m. S, W. Little Deer P. lies S. of and flows into 
West Pond. (See p. 112.) 

South Pond (^ x i^) is reached by a good carry of i^ 
m. W., starting from a point on W. shore, nearly opposite 
and just above Rock Island, near foot of lake. By travers- 
ing this sheet and carrying thence }4 m. W., the 2 Sister 



CASTORLAND. I2i 

Ponds, twin gems of the wilderness, are visited. These 3 
bodies of water are snugly embowered in the green depths 
of the forest, and being seldom approached by man, are 
the common abiding places of deer and trout. They are 
sources of Moose R , through Big Moose Lake, (p. 73.) ; 
all the others just noticed empty into Beaver River. 

The inlet and outlet of Brandreth's L , enter and out- 
pour very close together ; the latter paying tribute to 
Forked Lake, thus rendering Brandreth's Lake one of the 
fountain heads of Raquette River. The Carthage road 
skirts the margin of the lake, and is passable for wagons 
from the head, through to Crown Point. The distance to 
Raquette Lake (North Bay) is 4 m.; thence to Forked 
Lake Club House, 3 m. Near here (at Raquette Lake 
Landing) parties re-embark for other points. 

From Lowville the Oswegatchie Ponds are reached by 
the following route, over comparatively good roads: Smith's 
Landing, 2 m.; Dayanville, 3 m.; Croghan,* on Beaver R., 
5 m.; Belfort, on Beaver R , 4 m ; thence through the for- 
est to Long Pond, (Oswegatchie Lake,) 8 m. Total, 22 m. 
The waters in this vicinity are well stocked with trout early 
in the season, and deer are usually quite plentiful. Daily 
stage from Lowville to Croghan, (10 m., fare 50 cts.) where 
private conveyances are taken for the remainder of the 
journey, (12 m.). (See Route Eleventh?) 

Parties should take supplies from Lowville, although 
there are hotels at all of the villages named. The route 
intersects the Carthage road at Belfort. 

Eleventh : — From Castorland — a mere hamlet — to 
Naumburg, 1^ m.; Beaver Falls, 2>^ m.; Croghan, 3 m.; 
Belfort, 4 m.; Oswegatchie Lake, 8 m. Total, 19 m. Stage 
daily to Croghan ; fare, 50 cts. Conveyances are obtained 
of Bent at Castorland, and of Miller or Gardner at Cro- 
ghan. The road enters the forest about 2 m. from Belfort, 
and is in good condition for most of the way. 

* There Is a large Frencli Jesuit cliurcli at Crog-lian. 



122 THE ADIRONDACKS. 



CASTORLAND. — A ROMANTIC SETTLEMENT IN THE GREAT 

FOREST. 

On the 31st of August, 1792, at the moment when Danton and his 
blood-thirsty colleagues were filling Paris with dire dismay, and rioting 
in massacres of unparalleled atrocity, a contract was formed in that city 
between William Constable, of New York, and an associatiom of French 
capitalists, for the sale of six hundred and thirty thousand acres of land 
situated east and north of Black R., in the present counties of Lewis 
and Jefferson. This was done on the part of the purchasers, with the 
design not only of making what seemed a judicious investment, but of 
securing an asylum, for such as might desire to take up their residence 
in a country which, although a dense wilderness, was safe and desirable 
in comparison with France, at that period of her history. The 
scheme was some months in maturing, but in 1793 was fully planned. 
The tract was to be named "Castorland," (the Indian Couch-sach-ra-ge 
signifying the Land of Beavers,) and was to be surveyed into 12,000 
farms of fifty acres each. Two cities were to be laid out ; one to be 
christened "Basle," near the mouth of Black R. (Dexter), and the other 
"Castorville," at the lower falls on Beaver R., now known as " Beaver- 
ton."* Each city was to embrace 12,000 lots, and ample reservations 
were made for colleges, hospitals, and other public institutions. The 
company was to consist of 6,000 associates, each of whom was to receive 
a farm of fifty acres, and another farm and lot in each city at the end of 
twenty-one years, when the whole would have been enhanced in value 
by their improvements. They drew up a constitution and a code, fully 
defining the rights of property and rules of management, and everything 
was to be directed by a council in Paris. In short, the Golden Age was 
to be renewed in this forest Arcadia, which lay in the same latitude as 
the vineyard region of France, and the sunny climes of Italy ; and one 
need only to secure a share in the company (800 livi-es or $148.80), 
emigrate to their woodland domain, and become the possessor of 
wealth, peace and rural felicity. Rosy descriptions of the country and 
its resources were published, and a map was prepared in which the Black 
R. was shown as meandering among cities and villages like the Seine, 
in France. 

In the fall of 1793, Simon Des Jardins, formerly a chamberlain of 
Louis XVI. — a gentleman in middle life, of fine talent and education, 
— and Pierre Pharoux — a young architect and engineer of brilliant scien- 
tific attainments and almost spotless purity of character, — as commis- 
sioners of the company, came over to this "Land of Promise" to begin 
surveys and open roads for settlements. They were accompanied by 
Mark Isambert Brunei, a young refugee from the French Revolution, 
and emphatically a man of science, whose distinguished talents after- 

* Small steamers have ascended Beaver R. (which enters Black R. near 
Castorland station) 4 m , and to a point within x ^^- of Beaverton, the site 
of ancient Castorville. 



THE OSWEGATCHIE PONDS. I23 

wards placed him in a most eminent position in England, the great tun- 
nel under the Thames being one of the triumphs of his skill.* 

They found their way by water to Oswego, then a British garrison 
without one other inhabitant, and across the lake to the mouth of the 
Black R., which they followed many miles. In 1794, they opened a 
road from old Fort Schuyler (now Utica) by way of the celebrated 
Baron Steuben's place, in the present town of Steuben, and began set- 
tlement on the east side of Black R., just below the High Falls (Lyon's 
Falls). In 1795 they began improvements at the Long Falls (Carthage), 
and in September of that year, Pharoux— in attempting to navigate the 
river with a raft — was carried over the falls and drowned, in the present 
city of Watertown. This melancholy incident cast a gloom over the 
entire community. It was but the commencement of a series of mis- 
fortunes that one after another befell the ill-fated colonists, until the 
end was reached. 

The surveys were made according to the plans; and roads laid down 
in maps in Paris, without the slightest knowledge of the surface, were 
cut out but not bridged ; and some were so rugged they never could have 
been traveled. The tract proved to be only a third as large as had been 
estimated. The settlers found the rigors of our northern winters too 
severe for their endurance. Their funds finally were exhausted ; sick- 
ness from exposure and privations destroyed some, and accumulated 
miseries disheartened others, and caused an evil report to be spread 
among those intending to emigrate. In short, the gilded domes and 
blooming gardens of the Happy Land, vanished like the baseless fabric 
of a dream, on first contact with ihe realities; and only one of the un- 
happy colonists grew old and died near the scenes of their terrible hard- 
ships Und disappointments. 

The "Oswegatchie Ponds," fountain-heads of the West 
Branch of Oswegatchie River, form an interesting group of 
waters. Making Oswegatchie Lake, formerly known as 
Long or Slim Pond, (i^ x Yi) the center, within a radius 
of 5 or 6 m. are 25 or 30 handsome little lakes. The fol- 
lowing may be reached by good paths and roads leading 
from Bald Mt. House, situated at the N. end of that sheet. 

Rock P. (^ X i) lies 40 r. N. and has some picturesque 
features. Its outlet, Oswegatchie R., offers difficult navi- 
gation. 

Crossing the eastern portion of Rock P. (^ m.), and 
passing 5 or 8 rods up a canal-like strait, just wide enough 
to allow the passage of a boat, we enter Trout L. (^ x ^). 

* Among the refugees from France driven to this country in 1T97, were the 
Duke of Orleans, (afterward Louis Phillippe, Icing of the French) and his 
brothers, Monpensier and Beaujolais. These Illustrious exiles, pilgrims in 
the Adirondack forests, explored a large portion of that region, includmg 
Castorland.^[Hough.] 



124 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

This is very romantic and attractive, and a popular resort of 
those in search of the speckled beauties of large size. Its 
principal inlet is Trout L. Creek, and its outlet we have 
just navigated. 

Deer P. {J4 x }i) is ^ m. N. of Trout L, by an easy 
path. It is fringed with beautiful pines, and its shallow 
waters are well paved with lily-pads, in the midst of which, 
sparkle like silver a thousand snowy flowers, delighting 
every eye. These offer irresistible attractions to its name- 
sake. In one direction a pleasant beaver meadow stretches 
many rods away. It is a quiet and lovely spot. 

From Deer P. by following a trail through the tangled 
woods for about i^ m. (3 m. from the hotel) we will find, 
in Big Creek, several cascades of most exquisite loveliness. 

Desert ¥. {j{ x }i) is 2}^ m. E. of Deer P. It is appro- 
priately named, as it has marshy shores and dismal sur- 
roundings. Its shallow water is said to be poisonous, 
owing to the numerous noxious, aquatic weeds or plants 
that defile its depths. But it is '^immense" for deer. 

Wolf P. (}( X }i) excellent for trout, is 2 m. N. E. of 
Desert P. and flows into Middle Branch. 

Massepia P. {}( x }i) \s 2% m. E. of Desert P., and i^ 
m. S. E. of Wolf Pond. 

Buck L. (I X ^) is 3 m. E. of S. of Massepia Pond. 

These waters are all reached via "Ardison's Trail". 

Principal Route to Middle Branchy Rock and Sand Lakes ^ etc. 

From Bald Mt. House, it is ^ m. E. by good road to 
Ulrich's Mills. Thence it is t^Va. m. S. E. by trail to Jake's 
P. (^ X ^), (or by boat up Oswegatchie R. 2 m. and 
thence trail i^ m.); passing>« route a remarkable natural 
rock camp. This pretty sheet was named from a famous 
woodsman. "Uncle Bill" Lawrence, a noted hunter, has 
near its shores his solitary abode. ''Uncle Bill's Slide" is a 
few rods distant. 

From Jake's P. the trail leads 2^ m. E. to Tide L. with 
its delicious spring, and phenomenal . rismg and falling 
waters. Thence, J^ m. N. E. to Hog P.; >^ m. N. E. to 
Buck L.; i^ m. E. to the famed Middle Branch of the Os- 



MIDDLE BRANCH SECTION. 1 25 

wegatchie; 31^ m. N. E. to Sand and Rock Lakes. Total, 
1114^ m. from Bald Mt. House. 

Middle Branch, though difficult to reach, is a favorite re- 
sort of the angler, owing to its unfailing supply of trout. 

Near Jake's P. (N. E.) is Otter P. N. of that a short 
distance, is 5 Acre P. N. E. of Otter P., perhaps i m., is 
Turtle or Little P. Almost touching Tide L. (W.) is Sunk 
P. N. E. of Buck L., about i m., is Bassett L. or Jump- 
ing-Trout P. From Middle Branch to Rock and Sand 
Lakes, the trail passes Fawn and Grass Ponds. 

Grigg's L. {y2 X i^), (noted for trout) lies 3^^ m. S. E-. 
of Jake's P.; the trail diverging r. from the route to Middle 
Branch, i^ or 2 m. E. of Jake's P. at a point called the 
"Junction". 

The trail from the "Junction" to Middle Branch, follows 
the old "Emilyville Road". 

In order to induce setdement, an act was passed by the Legislature 
in 1 814, authorizing a road to be constructed through the dense woods 
from Turin to Emilyville, at the S. end of the town of Pierrepont. 
Years afterward this road was opened from Independence River to the 
"Old Military Road", joining the latter at the "Albany Bridge , E . 
Branch of Oswegatchie R. It extended about 50 m., and touched 
Beaver Lake at Number Four. (See pp. 98, 112.) The experiment, 
however, proved a failure, as this lone highway was never much trav- 
eled, and soon fell into total disuse. Now thrifty second-growth trees 
and occasional patches of corduroy obscurely mark its course. 

Green L. is ^ m. E. of Grigg's L.; and thence it is i m.. 
E. to Loon Hollow L.; whence a trail, passing near Sun- 
shine L., leads to Bear or Cold L. i^ m. S. E. (See p. 
loi.) The Moshier P's (p. 100) lie i3^ m. S. of Grigg s U 
(by trail). 

Flat Rock P. is a short distance S. of Loon Hollow L. 
******* 

Round 'P. (j4x Yz) communicates with Oswegatchie L. 
on the W. It is really a bay of the main sheet. 

The Twin P's., Upper and Lower (yi x Vq each) are 
2 1^ m. N. W. of Bald Mt. House, by road. 

Lane's P. (^ x i/^) a pretty lakelet, is ^ m. further N. W, 

Mud P. (i X ^) is 2 m. S. W. of Bald Mt. House, by 
miin road. Its name indicates its condition. 



126 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The 3 Clear P's, a chain of silver links, are 21^ m. W. 
and have no visible inlets or outlet. 

Bullhead F. {}{ x %) is }4 m. W. of Mud Pond. 

Sand L. is 3^ m. S. W. of the "Grant Place", at S. end 
of Oswegatchie Lake. (See p. 98.) 

The Oswegatchie section, owing to its fine sporting, is 
fast becoming a popular resort. 

Bald Mt. House, with its numerous little rustic cottages, 
is worthy of the highest commendation. It is charmingly 
situated on elevated ground, bordered by evergreens and 
other trees, and affords a complete view of Oswegatchie L. 
and the environing forest. Double verandas offer enjoya- 
ble shade, prospects and promenades. The table is excel- 
lent ; and the management generally, is characterized by 
admirable energy and enterprise. A well of remarkably 
cold water on the premises, is an important feature. The 
invalid, sportsman or pleasure seeker, will find this summer 
retreat eminently calculated to satisfy every reasonable re- 
quirement and at very low rates. Boats free to guests. 
The proprietor will meet parties at Castorland or Croghan, 
and convey them to his place at reasonable prices. Ad- 
dress Z, Bigness, Oswegatchie Lake, Lewis Co., N. Y. 

To ascend Bald Mt., cross Rock P. to N. shore ; thence 
follow path, which soon merges into a lumber-road leading 
2 m. N. to Ardison's bark-peeler's camp, at foot of the 
mountain. The view commanded by the summit, embrac- 
ing an interminable forest, with but little lake-scenery, does 
not sufficiently repay us for the scramble we have en- 
joyed (?). 

Twelfth : — Carthage is finely situated upon Black 
River, (third in magnitude in this State,) whose immense 
water power is here utilized extensively in the manufacture 
of iron, lumber, leather, etc. It is a handsome village; 
steadily increasing in size and business, notwithstanding 
the several calamities it has suffered through extensive 
fires. Great enterprise is a marked characteristic of the 
place. From here to Lyon's Falls (425^ m.) there is un- 
interrupted navigation for small steamers. This most beau- 
tiful stream in this extended reach, offers superior and 



CARTHAGE. 



27 



delightful opportunities to boating parties. But immedi- 
ately below the village and for several miles, numerous 
rapids and falls render safe boating impossible. Carthage 
was formerly called Long Falls, and was founded in 1795 
by the Castorlanders. 

Two excellent hotels, the "Elm-hirst" and the "Levis", 
furnish prime accommodations to travelers. 

Carthage is the S. W. terminus of the Carthage & Adi- 
rondack R. R., connecting here with the Utica division of 
the R. W. & O. R. R. It is also the W. terminus of the 
"Old State Road" opened through the Wilderness to Crown 
Point in 1841-47. The magnitude of this "forest waste" 
becomes manifest when the length of this road is taken 
into consideration. From a point about 20 m. E. of this 
place, to Schroon River ("Roots"), 95 m., with the excep- 
tion of the Number Four, Long Lake, Newcomb and sev- 
eral minor clearings, the route lies through a wilderness 
not yet invaded by civilization, if we except the lumber- 
men. This indicates also the sterility of the soil. 

Distances from Carthage to Crown Point. 

MILES. 

Carthage to Belfort, - - - 15 

Thence to Number Four, - - - 9 

" Stillwater, - - - ti 

" South Branch, ... 71^ 
" Brandreth's Lake, - - 9>^ 

" Raquette Lake, (North Bay) - 6 
" Long Lake Village, - - 17^ 

"Newcomb, - - - 13 

" Tahawus, (Lower Iron Works) - 7^ 

" Schroon River, ("Roots") - - 19 
" Crown Point, - - - 19 

Total, - - - - 134 

Portions of this road are not now traveled by wagons, viz.: 
Belfort to Number Four (it is passable 2 or 3 m. E. of Bel- 
fort), and from Little Rapids road (branching 1. 2 m. E. of 
South Branch) to Brandreth's Lake. 

In entering the woods from Carthage, parties may choose 
either of two general routes; one by way of Belfort (15 m.) 



128 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and thence to the Oswegatchie Ponds 8 m., or to Sand and 
Crooked Lakes — following the Oswegatchie road from 
Belfort 5 m., thence a path 5 m. to the former, whence it is 
i^ m. S. to Crooked L. (See p. 98.) The other leading 
to Harrisville, 20 m distant, passing through the village of 
Natural Bridge, 9 m. ' The road from Carthage to Harris- 
ville is in good condition and affords a pleasant ride. 

But the route almost invariably followed, is that of the 
Carthage & Adirondack R. R. By this line, the dis- 
tances from point to point are as follows : Carthage to 
Natural Bridge, to m ; Bonaparte Lake Station, 7 m.; 
Harrisville, 3^ m.; Jayville, 8^ m.; Oswegatchie, ()% m.; 
Benson Mines, present terminus of R. R., 4.5 m. Total 
from Carthage about ^3 miles. 

Natural Bridge is a pleasant little place situated on 
Indian R, (End., 0-je-quack, "Nut River"), which here 
runs under the ground in two different places, and emerges 
a few rods below, forming a natural bridge of white lime- 
stone 6 ft. above the water and 15 ft. wide; a curiosity of 
considerable interest. This gave the hamlet its name ; but 
a romantic bit of history connected with this locality gave 
it its chief celebrity. 

We learn from Hough's admirable writings that in 1800, James Don- 
atien Le Ray, Compte de Chaumont of France, while on a visit to 
America, joined his friend, Gouverneur Morris in the purchase of a vast 
tract of land lying in Franklin, St. Lawrence, Jefferson and Lewis 
Counties, N. Y In 1808 he erected an elegant chateau at Le Rayville, 
which he occupied for many years. Here he dispensed hospitality with 
a lavish hand to distinguished guests from Europe; many of whom were 
of noble, some even of royal blood. 

In 1 81 5, when visiting his estate in Tourraine, France, he heard of 
Joseph Bonaparte's arrival at Blois, in his flight before the allied forces. 
Thither he hastened to lend the fugitive king his respects and sympathy, 
and was invited by the prince to dine with him. Upon this occasion, 
Bonaparte suddenly remarked to the Count : "Well, I remember you 
spoke to me formerly of your great possessions in the United States. 
If you have them still, I should like very much to take some of your 
land in exchange for a part of that silver I have there in those wagons, 
which may be pillaged at any moment. Take four or five hundred 
thousand francs, and give me the equivalent in land." Le Ray replied: 
"It is impossible to make a hargain where one party alone knows what 
he is about." ''Oh," said the prince, ' I know you well, and I rely more 
on your word than my own judgment." Finally it was arranged that 




/, / '/./ 



^ / //'/ -^ //// '// 



JOSEPH BONAPARTE. I29 

Le Ray should receive 500,000 francs for 156,260 acres (less 32,260 
acres owned by settlers) and payment was secured by a certain amount 
of silver, diamonds and real estate, valued at $120,000. 

Joseph Bonaparte was born in Corsica in 1768. He shared the for- 
tunes of his eminent brother, and was of great service to him in a diplo- 
matic capacity, as he was distinguished for his genius in statecraft. His 
fine figure, handsome face, elegant manners, courtly and commanding 
presence, combined to render him an object of admiration to all. He 
was the elder and favorite brother of the great Napoleon; indeed, the only 
one whom he really loved. The record he made as a man and a mon- 
arch, was truly unblemished. His brief reign on the throne of Naples, 
was a succession of benefits to a people who had been long degraded by 
oppressive despotism. From 1808 to 1813 he wore the crown of Spain, 
and but for the intervention of the British, and the desolations of war, 
would have opened a happy path for that unfortunate kingdom. (Cot- 
tage Cyclo ) He rejoined Napoleon in Paris during the Hundred 
Days, and after the battle of Waterloo, in their last interview, gener- 
ously offered to surrender to the fallen Emperor his own means of 
escape, by taking advantage of their great resemblance to each other, in 
form and features, and remaining in his place. Napoleon, in deep emo- 
tion, rejected this noble offer, replying : " I will not allow you to 
expose yourself to dangers which belong to my destiny alone." But he 
agreed to meet him in the United States, as he had serious thoughts of 
locating on those wild lands and uniting with Joseph in founding vast 
manufacturing establishments in the Black River valley, which should 
surpass any interests of this kind in the world. How different might 
have been his fate, had he carried this commendable plan into execution. 

This arrangement having been made, Joseph sailed for America, in 
1815, under the assumed named of Compte de Survilliers. He pur- 
chased a mansion in Philadelphia, and, about a dozen contiguous farms 
on Delaware River, near Bordentov/n, N. J. (Point Breeze) for the site 
and grounds of a country-seat. This land, with very elaborate embel- 
lishments, became a magnificent park. Here he erected a spacious 
edifice that was a perfect copy of an Italian palace. This was enriched 
by his vast collection of busts, statues, paintings, precious stones, etc., 
which he had gathered in Spain, Italy and France. On this superb 
estate he expended a million of dollars. This stately structure was de- 
stroyed by fire in 1820, but the valuable contents were saved. It was 
subsequently replaced by a building much less ostentatious. 

During his sojourn in this country Joseph endeared himself to Ameri- 
cans by his benevolence, affability and accomplishments, and was elect- 
ed to many philanthropic and learned institutions. (Amer. Cyclo.) 

While residing on the Delaware, he received a proposition which 
surprised as much as it must have affected him. He was visited by a 
Mexican delegation, sent by that government to offer him the crown of 
Mexico. He entertained them royally for several days, and then gave 
them his answer in the following words: 'I have already worn two 
crowns ; I would not take a step to wear a third. . Nothing can gratify 
me more than to see men who would not recognize my authority when 
I was at Madrid, now come to seek me in exile; but I do not think that the 



130 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

throne you wish to raise again can make you happy. Every day I pass 
in this hospitable land, proves more clearly to me the excellence of re- 
publican institutions in America. Keep them, as a precious gift from 
Heaven; settle your internal commotions; follow the example of the 
United States; and seek among your fellow citizens a man more capable 
than I am of acting the great part of Washington." {Napoleon Dynasty.^ 

He made the village of Natural Bridge his residence for two sum- 
mers, and the large house he built and occupied — containing bullet- 
proof sleeping rooms — is still standing. 

As hunting was the favorite pastime of the prince, one of the several 
towns adjacent embraced by his purchase, was named by his request, 
Diana, after the goddess of the chase. 

About 3 j^ m. this side of Harrisville, and 17 m. beyond Carthage, the 
route passes near and in sight of Lake Bonaparte, (a wagon road ex- 
tending to its margin ^ m.) which is surpassed in beauty by few of 
the Wilderness waters It is 5 m. in length, and averages 2 m. in width, 
encircles several wild, rocky islands, and is environed by bold precipit- 
ous shores. Only three small clearings have been made on its borders, 
and with these exceptions it is surrounded by a magnificent and entirely 
primitive forest, in which the evergreen largely predominates. The 
water of this renowned lake is deep, clear and pure, and contains black 
bass, perch, white fish, ciscoes, bullheads and the large salmon trout. 
Brook, or speckled trout, are taken in the several inlets. The 
islands (Round, Rock and Birch) and the shores afford many good 
camping sites, near which are fine springs and bathing places of unsur- 
passed excellence. Other lakes and ponds in the immediate vicinity 
\%, to 2 m, from it) form a beaded circle around this liquid beryl spark- 
ling in their midst. These include Indian L. (S W.); Mud L. {% m. 
N. W.); Loon and Duck Ps. (N,); Green L. (^ m, N,— wild, secluded 
and romantic, and the home of numerous mountain trout); Bullhead P. 
{% m, S. E ); Dobesson's P. (i m.); and Nutmeg P. (2 m.). 

Deer yet have their abiding places near all these pleasant sheets and 
the number killed during the hunting season is considerable. 

It need not be said that Lake Bonaparte was named in honor of its 
kingly possessor, who in 1818 erected a rustic lodge upon the most 
beautiful and commanding site its banks afforded, for the use of himself 
and companions while out on sporting excursions. Upon this lake 
and Black River he placed a six-oared gondola decorated with gorgeous 
trappings, which plowed those waters majestically; and attended by a 
gay suite of favorites, (attired in the richest apparel; green velvet with 
golden trimmings predominating) many of whom had shared his sunny 
fortunes in royal courts, his boating excursions and other rural pastimes 
were replete with regal magnificence. 

He sometimes traveled from his mansion in New Jersey to his forest- 
home in a gilded coach drawn by six horses; and upon one occasion 
when returning from his wilderness-estate, the cortege halted at a 
•chosen spot, between Natural Bridge and Evans' Mills, partook of a 
sumptuous feast, embracing every delicacy that the country afforded, 
prepared with great care, and served on golden dishes, with royal cere- 
monies. 



ANNALS OF LAKE BONAPARTE. 131 

Liberal in the use of money, singularly suave and winning in his man- 
ners, and sociable with all who were brought in business relations with 
him, he was of course very popular among our citizens ; and his annual 
return was awaited with interest, and remembered with satisfaction. 

'■ The hunter loved his pleasant smile. 
The baclvwoodsman his quiet speech : 
And the Usher's cares would he beguile 
With ever ]^indly deeds for each." 

After twenty years of ownership, however, (in 1835) he sold his forest 
possessions to John La Farge, a wealthy merchant of New York, for 
$80,000, and was seen there no more. The villa which he had con- 
structed in 1S17 on the outlet, i^ m, below the lake, (where the almost 
deserted little mining village of Alpine now stands) for the purpose of 
making this a summer residence, soon went to decay ; and the hunting 
lodge on the shore was subsequently burned. Bonaparte finally left 
America in 1839: his departure regretted by all who knew him ; and 
died in Florence, Italy, July 28th, 1844. This eccentric episode in the 
life of that remarkable man has been celebrated in song by the Lewis 
County poet, Hon; Caleb Lyon. 

newell's coon-skin cap. 

Mr. Wm. Nunn, of Harrisville, N. Y., contributes the following 
anecdote of Joseph Bonaparte: — 

"About the year 1837, I heard Horace Newell, a noted hunter resid- 
ing in the town of Diana, relate his hunting experience with the ex-king. 
The latter was then occupying his abode at what is now called the 
' Bonaparte Clearing', near Alpine. He sent for Newell to come and 
hunt for him on a certain day. While Newell was making preparations 
to start, his wife, being more refined, urged him to dress up, in order to 
appear respectably before a king ; and to take off his cap when he en- 
tered his presence. Newell told her in reply, that he was a Massachu- 
setts Yankee and that his people never took off their hats even to a king. 
In due time, with gun and dog, he reached the appointed place, and 
was met at the door by a servant who politely requested him to name 
the nature of his business. The hunter did so. Then the servant re- 
tired and Bonaparte immediately appeared. The grand military cap he 
wore came off with a bow and he warmly shook the hand of the forester. 
'Tell ye what, boys,' said Newell, 'didn't my coon-skin cap come off 
mighty quick then ? Good manners, boys, even from a New Englan' 
Yankee, called for it. The thought of sich a man takin' off his cap to a 
coon-skin larnt me a lesson that I will never forgit. Bonaparte had five 
or six slick lookin' chaps with 'im, all trimmed up with gold and silver; 
but they had the raal grit in 'em. We hunted and fished four days, and 
had the most amazin' time I ever hearn tell on. Every one killed a 
deer and ketched lots o' trout ; and we come purty nigh havin' a scrim- 
mage with an all-fired big painter, that riled us up consider'ble with 
his tarnal hootin' and yellin'; and the pesky varmint was sorter sassy- 
like with his leetle pranks when we happened to run agin 'im and 
skeered 'im out. For my sarvices each man gin me a present, but the 



132 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

king the biggest one ; and I'm blamed if I didn't go hum with $40 in 
gold in my pocket.' This occurred about 1818." 



There is probably no more romantic, picturesque or conspicuous 
figure connected with the chronicles of Lake Bonaparte than Col. Zeb- 
ulon H. Benton. The accompanying engraving faithfully represents his 
appearance in daily life. He invariably dresses with the nicest regard 
to minute particulars, in peaked felt hat, long black coat and ruffled 
shirt — every article faultlessly neat. With his fresh ruddy complexion, 
clean-shaven face, rich growth of snow-white hair, graceful carriage, 
and form almost as lithe and perfect, at his ripe age of 82, as if in the 
flower of youth and strength, he seems the embodiment of a gentleman 
of the old regime. 

Col. Benton was born in Apulia, N. Y., Jan. 27, iSii ; and the de- 
tails of his checkered life would fill a book. We can only briefly allude 
to the following facts: lie was a cousin of Thomas Hart Benton, the 
great Missouri statesman, and consequently a kinsman of his daughter, 
Jessie Benton Fremont, the noted wife of the famous "Pathfinder". In 
the War of the Rebellion, he received an appointment on the staff of 
Gen. Fremont ; but before he could arrange to take the position, that 
personage was superseded. He was also a relative of the eminent nov- 
elist, James Fenimore Cooper. From his very boyhood he has led an 
extremely active life ; and before he was fairly out of his teens, he was 
entrusted, by his employers, with commissions of the utmost import- 
ance, which he brought to successful consummation. He has been en- 
gaged from time to time in great enterprises, especially those of land, 
mining and rail-roading. The capital invested in these, sometimes 
equaled or exceeded a million of dollars. His ventures, often gigantie, 
were not confined to Lewis and St. Lawrence Counties, but extended 
into the Canadas, to the Gulf of Mexico, and even into South America. 
The mines at Rossie, Clifton, Jayville and Alpine (the two latter still 
owned by him) are examples of these operations. We are convinced that 
the Carthage & Adirondack Railway owes its existence to Col. Benton 
and to Hon. Joseph Pahud, of Harrisville, N. Y., as they were unceas- 
ing in their efforts to establish that line to Jayville Mines. 

From the Carthage Republicari^ Philadelphia Press, and other relia- 
ble sources, we have gleaned the following information : — 

Soon after the arrival of Joseph Bonaparte in this country, he met 
and loved a beautiful Quakeress, by the name of Annette Savage, a 
member of a family of high respectability, residing in Philadelphia, 
descendants of the celebrated Indian princess, Pocahontas.* They were 
subsequently married in private by a justice-of-the-peace in that city. 
Two daughters were the fruit of this union, one of whom died in in- 
fancy. The other was christened Charlotte C. Soon after arriving at 
maturity, she became the wife of Col. Benton. Their marriage resulted 
in seven children. The five surviving bear the appropriate names of 

* Savage's Station, Ya., brouglit into prominence by the late war, was 
named in honor of tliis family. 




COL. ZEBULON H. BENTON. 



^ 



COL. ZEBULON H. BENTON. 



133 



Josephine Charlotte, Zenaide Bonaparte, Louis Joseph, Zebulon Napo- 
leon and Thomas Hart. 

Mrs. Benton, having obtained a letter of introduction from Gen. 
Grant (then President) to Hon. Elihu B. Washburn, U. S. Minister to 
France, and one also from Dr. J. De Haven White, the eminent Phila- 
delphia dentist, to his former pupil. Dr. Evans, the dental surgeon of 
Louis Napoleon, repaired to Paris in 1869 She obtained audience with 
the Emperor, and received immediate recognition as the daughter of 
Joseph Bonaparte ; and by his imperial will, and the laws of France, the 
union of her parents was confirmed and her legitimacy established.* 
Honored by an invitation to attend the French court, she and two of 
her children were there kindly and cordially entertained by the Em- 
peror and Empress, who presented her with valuable souvenirs upon 
this occasion. Napoleon often expressed great regret that he did not 
know his cousin earlier, so that he might the sooner have bestowed 
upon her children the places to which, by right of birth, they were en- 
titled. He presented her with her father's palace; but this was lost 
through the downfall of the empire and that ill-fated loyal family, Mrs. 
Benton attended Napoleon during his imprisonment in Germany, and a 
short time afterward (187 1) returned to America. She was a woman of 
remarkable beauty and talent, and of most lovely characteristics. Her 
eyes were large, dark and lustrous, and like the Colonel's, never dimmed 
by age. Receiving a fine education, in Europe and in this country, she 
early developed great versatility in writing. Many brilliant articles in 
various papers and magazines were the productions of her pen, and she 
was the author of a book of rare merit, entitled, "France and her Peo- 
ple." She died Dec. 25, 1890, at Richfield Springs. 

Col. Benton becoming largely interested in coal and other specula- 
tions in Philadelphia, Pa., located in that city in 1852, where his family 
still resides But he frequently visits Alpine ("Alpina" is a corruption 
of this word), Lake Bonaparte, Jayville Mines, and many distant points, 
attending to his various interests, as his wonderful activity is still un- 
abated. 

Note. — Since the article on Col. Benton was placed in the printer's 
hands, the sad intelligence has reached us of his sudden decease, which 
occurred May 16, 1893. 

The Lake Bonaparte House, a large and imposing struct- 
ure, picturesquely situated on the site of the old Campbell 
place, so well known to "old timers", at the head of the 
historic sheet from which it was named, replaces the one 
destroyed by fire in the winter of 1892. 

* I-i this first interview with the emperor, Mrs. Benton attempted to show 
her letters ; tout he prevented her with the remark : "No, my cousin ; this Is 
unnecessary, as I see my uncle Joseph In your face. Why did you not come 
sooner? What a pity," As if the shadow of the approaching- war were in 
his thoughts. 



134 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



The main building stands 25 or 30 feet higher than the 
Surface of the lake, and its triple verandas offer a prome- 
nade of over 30 rods, and insure absolute coolness in the 
hottest weather, while pretty groves of butternut and cedar 
trees fringe the sloping grounds, lending ample shade. The 
rooms are tidy, airy and well equipped. The dining-room, 
with its large open fireplace, is exceedingly pleasant, the 
table unexceptional, and a spring of remarkable size sup- 
plies the house with delicious drinking water. On the bold 
eminence 200 feet W. of the hotel the enterprising proprie- 
tors have erected a fine annex for the comfort and conven- 
ience of their patrons. This contains a spacious parlor 
furnished with a piano, lounges and easy chairs. From the 
broad piazzas, completely encircling this building, a charm- 
ing view of the forest- encompassed lake is enjoyed; the 
lofty plateau, 200 feet above the water, on which was situ- 
ated the hunting-seat of Joseph Bonaparte, being included 
in the scene spread before us. A lawn tennis court, cro- 
quet grounds and billiard parlor offer a variety of amuse- 
ments to visitors. At the landing, 15 rods from the hotel, 
a large dancing-hall, anchored to huge boulders and pro- 
jecting over the water, accommodates 75 couples, and 
affords a cool retreat on hot days. Under this is moored a 
large fleet of new, safe and commodious row-boats, designed 
for the use of guests. Neat little sailing yachts are also 
provided for their pleasure. A large and safe steam-launch 
makes frequent excursions around the lake for the low fare 
of 25 cents. Lake Bonaparte is within easy reach of some 
of the best sporting grounds of the Great Wilderness ; not- 
ably the Oswegatchie waters, now conveniently accessible 
via the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. (Depot ^ mile 
from the hotel. A free carriage meets every train.) This 
beautiful summer retreat is certainly one of the most desir- 
able of all the Adirondack hostelries, and its accessibility 
and numerous attractions (only 17^ m. from Carthage) are 
fast rendering it one of the most popular resorts in that en- 
tire region. (P. O. Harrisville, N. Y.) 

The small but thriving village of Harrisville is situated 
on the W. branch of Oswegatchie R. and contains a large 
tannery, several saw-mills, and other manufactories. This, 
too, has its history. 



HARRISVILLE. 



135 



We are informed by Hough, that in 1852 Prince Sulkowski of Belitz, 
(a political exile from Polish Austria) became a resident of this village. 
His uncle had been a general under Napoleon, and fell in the battle of 
the Pyramids. The Prince, in the revolution of 1848, became obnox- 
ious to the government, but managed to reach America with his family, 
and to secure a small stipend from a once large estate. He was attract- 
ed to this section by the opportunities it offered in the pursuit of his 
favorite diversion, that of hunting. Many years since some attention 
was called to this person, from a report that he was to marry the infam- 
ous Lola Montez ; but the story originated from parties in Europe who 
were interested in preventing his restoration to the royal favor, was 
easily refuted and had none of its intended effect. Subsequently he 
was restored to his hereditary titles and estates. 

There is a good hotel at Harrisville,(Kenwood Hall) from 
which parties can sally forth in the morning, enjoy capital 
fishing through the day, and return to the house in the 
evening. Or they may ascend W. Branch 12 or 14 m. — 
carrying around several rapids intervening — and visit its 
tributaries, lakes and ponds; or pass up Middle Branch 
from the forks of these two streams (3 m. above the village) 
12 m. to Humes' (5 m. by road) and examine the interest- 
ing section beyond. 

In addition to Lake Bonaparte and its surrounding 
waters, the others of easy access from Harrisville, are the 
Jayville Lakes, Sj4 m. N. E. ma C. & A. R. R.; Jenny 
Creek L., 6 m. E.; South Creek L., 6 m. S. E.; Round L., 
ii>^ m. (3 m. S. of Jayville); Long L., ^ m. from latter; 
and the '''rising star' of the Adirondacks, Star Lake, 20^ 
m. E. via C. & A. R. R. 

Again we may proceed by good road to Fine 12 m., {via 
Pitcairn, 3 m. and East Pitcairn, 7 m.), thence 11 m. by 
poor road to "Landing"— whence it is passable boating up 
the E. Branch, (interrupted only by 3 easy portages of 40 
rods, i^ m., and i m.) through a dense forest to Cranberry 
L., 10^ m. Total, 35 m. {The Star Lake, or Benson route 
is preferable^ 

Near East Pitcairn (N.) is Pontaferry Lake. 

Harrisville is also connected with Gouverneur by a fair 
road, 20 m. Stage daily; fare $1.50. Telegraphic station 
at this place for all points. 



136 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

About 3 m. above Harrisville, the West and Middle 
Branches of the Oswegatchie unite their waters.* 5 m. up 
the latter stream where the main road terminates, is located 
the " Forest Home " of the hunter and woodsman, Warren 
Humes. His large farm is a notch in the wilderness, and 
within 40 rods of his house the Great Forest begins. We 
have now reached the borders of a district whose dense 
and undisturbed woods may truly be styled "the forest pri- 
meval." It is perhaps the least known, most sequestered, 
and wildest portion of the entire region. Save in improv- 
ing the immense sugar bush comprising upwards of 5,000 
trees belonging to Humes, said to be the largest in the coun- 
try, the ax has made but slight encroachment upon these 
primitive wilds, which still retain their pristine beauty. As 
a natural result, the many unnavigable streams, and spark- 
ling lakes watering this section, are well stored with trout; 
and, not many years since, numerous wild animals, such as 
deer, bears, and even wolves and panthers, roamed almost 
as unmolested through these leafy solitudes as when the 
Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. It may well be 
called the "Elysian Fields" of the sportsman ; though but 
few have yet tasted the delights of this locality. In the 
summer time it is no uncommon occurrence to sight a deer 
grazing on the fields of Humes' farm, and the howl of the 
wolf, and the scream of the panther still occasionally salute 
the ear of the trapper, who penetrates the somber forest a 
few miles only. 

Humes' house stands on the bank of the river, down 
which we may paddle our boat 8 or 10 miles. Navigation, 
however, is rather difficult in low water Jh either direction. 
Above his place the stream is navigable for 3 m. only, 
where the first of a series of charming waterfalls prevents 
further progress by water. These several cascades (8 of 
them within 8 m., all situated in the midst of the wildest 
scenery) are respectively styled Biscuit (15 ft.), Sluice (60 
ft.). Mill Dam (45 ft.). Burnt (18 ft.), Ash-hill (20 ft.), 
Rainbow (55 ft.), Floodwood (35 ft.), and Clark (25 ft.). 

*0swegatclile R. lias 3 branches, termed the Eastern, Middle and Western. 
The group of ponds forming the headwaters of the latter stream we have al- 
ready descrihed. (see p. 12s.) The Eastern Branch flows Into and out of 
Cranberry Lake. 



HUMES' ** FOREST HOME." 



37 



They present most bewitching attractions and should never 
be passed unnoticed. 

From Humes' place, rare sporting grounds and pictur- 
esque resorts are generalh^ of easy access. In the neigh- 
borhood are numerous lakes and ponds, mostly headwaters 
of the Middle Branch. The most important of these are 
as follows: — 

Liger's L. (i x ^), (named after Humes' uncle Elijah,) 
i^ m. N. E. of Humes' by sled road, is a romantic sheet, 
lying on the summit of Beach Mt. Its "Elephant Rock" 
affords a delightful view of the surrounding scenery. The 
lake is fed by springs and contains speckled trout weighing 
i^ to 2 lbs. 

South Creek L. i m. N. E. of this, furnishes no trout, but 
excellent hunting. 

Round h. (J4 X ^) s}4 m. S. E. of Liger's L. (trail), is 
a handsome little sheet, margined by rolling ground and 
beautiful woods, its crystal waters producing speckled 
trout in limited numbers, weighing J^ to 3 lbs. 

The 2 Squddle Hole P's {yi m. apart) ^ m. N. W. of 
Round L., are quite pretty and are deer and trout resorts. 

From Round L. it is 3 m. N. to Jayville. (See p. 140.) 

Long L. (^ X ^) 34 m. S. E. of Round L. (trail) is 
abundantly stocked with small trout. 

Streeter's L., 4 m. from Long L., supplies us with a few 
trout, and good hunting. 

Silver Dam P's, 6 m. S. E. of Humes', yield no trout, but 
are frequented by deer. 

Mouldy P. (i X J4) I m. farther S. has only a few trout, but. 
is a fine deer resort. It is a showy little lake, completely 
fringed with evergreens ; large, majestic pines predominat- 
ing on one side of it. Located on its shores is a log camp, 
near which is a good spring. It is 4 m. S. E. to Humes' 
enclosed shanty on Wolf Creek. 

From Wolf Creek camp to Humes' camp on Middle 
Branch of Oswegatchie R., it is 2}4 m.; thence to his 
"Maple Hill Cottage,"* it is 3 m.; thence to his "Big Alder- 

"^T^ree m. S. E. of Maple Hill Cottage Is Gill P. TWs pretty little basin 
was named after Mr. Watson Gill, of Syracuse. In the vicinity are several 
other secluded ponds avraiting* names. 



138 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Bed Camp," it is 3 m.; thence to Rock and Sand Lakes, 3 
m. — all reached by trails. Humes transports baggage and 
supplies from his resort to Wolf Creek Camp, via Silver 
Dam P's, and Mouldy P.; the first 3 m. with a wagon, en- 
abling sportsmen to ride over that^ortion of the route only; 
thence by sled, the remainder of the distance, 8 m. 

Rock and Sand Lakes (the latter named from its exquisite 
golden strand) — twin gems in the royal diadem of lakes and 
lakelets adorning the Adirondack Region — are perhaps the 
most remarkable of any we have named. Separated by a 
narrow ridge only 25 ft. wide, the former 6 ft. higher than 
the latter, they peacefully sleep side by side in their native 
beauty and loneliness. Being difficult of access, and rarely 
disturbed, they furnish sporting of superlative excellence. 

By trail it is about 2Y2 m. N. E. to Wolf Lake (i x i^); 
thence 2 m. N. W. to Cage's L. and Bladder P.; thence 2 
m. to Streeter's Lake. 

Bladder P. is merely an offshoot of the larger sheet. 
Cage's L. Near them, W. or S. W., are the 2 Quiet Ponds, 

From Wolf L. it is 2 m. to Rily P.; so named because its 
shallow waters are often rendered turbid by the wading of 
numerous deer. 

Streeter's Fish P., a wonderful trout-pool, lies between 
Wolf L. and Rily Pond. 

One and one-half m. N. E. of Sand L. is Rock Pond. 

Sid's P.* lies about 2 m. S. of Sand L. There is a 
spring of water near of such frigid temperature that fish 
may be preserved in it for several days. 

Beech Mt. or Two Pound P. lies i or 2 m. N. E. of Sid's 
Pond. 

South W. of Sid's P. about i m , and i^ m. S. W. of Sand 
L., is a connected group styled Cluster, or the Four South 
Ponds; and several miles W. of them are Tide, Buck, Hog, 
and other ponds. (See p. 124.) 

Wolf P., 3 m. S. E. of Mouldy P., was most appropriate- 
ly named, as parties formerly camping in this wild place 

* Named from its discoverer, Sid. Snell. To liim and his father, the late 
Esquire Snell, the distinguished Adirondack surveyor, we are indebted for 
valuable map-work on this section. 



I 



THE HUMES DISTRICT. 139 

were frequently serenaded by wolves and also panthers. 
Trout small; hunting extra. 

Massepia P., i^ m. S. E, of Wolf P., affords fine trout- 
ing and deer-hunting. So does Griggs L., 5 m. S. E. of 
that. 

Panther L., about 3 m. S. E. of Grigg's L., is still occa- 
sionally visited by its namesake. (See p. 125 for other 
lakes.) 

It will be noticed that Humes has erected camps and 
placed boats on a number of the lakes and streams, within 
15^ (Liger's L.) to 191^ m. of his place. He is also build- 
ing camps at other points, easily reached. As he has re- 
cently leased 30,000 acres, in the wildest portion of the 
Adirondacks, adjoining his own lands and Dr. Webb's Ne- 
ha-sa-ne Park., (p. 104) he is enabled to offer opportunities 
to sportsmen not equaled in any other locality. It is his 
custom to furnish parties, who desire to occupy these 
camps, with supplies and transportation at reasonable rates, 
and to give them free use of his woodland lodges, if they 
are his guests. 

It should be noted in connection with this, that Dr. 
Webb's great purchase includes Rock and Sand Lakes and 
many other delectable waters in the vicinity. It is stated 
by reliable guides that 53 lakes and ponds may be visited 
from the former; the most remote being not more than 10 
miles distant. As trespassing will not be allowed on Dr. 
Webb's domain, Humes' grand sporting grounds are great- 
ly enhanced thereby in value. 

From Humes' it is 5 m. to Harrisville, (12 m. by stream) 
making it 25^ m. to Carthage. It is 7 m. to Lake Bona- 
parte; and thus i^ m. may be saved en route to Carthage, 
(24 m ) by leaving Harrisville out. 

The farm-hostelry of Warren Humes (P. O. Harrisville, 
N. Y.) has been quadrupled in capacity, and now consists 
of two large structures and nearly a dozen cottages, all 
suitably equipped, and offering most commodious and 
home-like quarters to visitors. This establishment is a 
model of neatness and comfort ; and the table is supplied 
with the products of the farm, flood and forest. Fresh 
milk and maple sugar are furnished in abundance. Well 



I40 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and spring-water of icy coldness supply the house. Boats 
free to guests. Those who seek a quiet summer resting- 
place, will find "Forest Home" admirably adapted to their 
wants; while sportsmen will find it most suitable head- 
quarters for excursions to the neighboring streams and 
lakes, where rare sport may be enjoyed. 

Humes is a distinguished forester and hunter; thorough- 
ly versed in woodcraft and in , all the habits of game. 
Hence, those seeking his advice, or placing themselves in 
his charge in a sporting sense, may confidently look for 
favorable results. Tourists en route to Humes' now leave 
the cars on the Carthage & Adirondack Railroad, at Har- 
risville, whence a pleasant drive brings them to this famous 
resort. 

At Jayville, a hamlet in the woods, extensive mines, pro- 
ducing iron ore of the best quality, are worked with good 
success. Fair sport is afforded by a cluster of lakes and 
ponds in the immediate neighborhood. Among these are 
"Twin," "Goose," "Pine," ''Bear," "Sucker," "Anderson" 
and "Dry Timber." 

The route (good path) from Jayville to Round L. (3 m. S.) 
for a large portion of the way, lies through a dense and primi- 
tive forest ; beautiful, fragrant and silent, acres of whose 
floor are carpeted with the softest, velvety moss, forming 
most grateful smoothness for our feet. About midway we 
cross the romantic gorge of Jenny Creek, and here, by the 
side of an ice-cold spring, beneath the "pillared shade" of 
the leafy greens, we usually take our lunch. From this 
route, a short distance from Jayville, a path leads (1.) to 
Dry Timber Lake. 

Oswegatchie, (Forest Union Hotel) on the Carthage & 
Adirondack R. R , is the present station for Star Lake, 
about 2]^ m. distant. A new railroad station will soon be 
established within i ^ m. of that resort. The ride from 
Oswegatchie is over a good highway, and mostly through a 
magnificent forest. Stages await every train. Fare, 25 
cents. 

Star Lake, (ii^ x i)\f/^r-like in form, purity and 
brightness, is one of the fairest of all the galaxy of gems 
adorning the Adirondack Wilderness. On the early maps 



STAR LAKE. 141 

it appeared as "Point Lake," having thus been designated 
from its curiously scalloped shores; and it has but recently 
received its more appropriate name. Its waters are as 
clear as crystal, objects being discernible at a great depth. 
It is apparently one vast spring-hole, having no visible in- 
lets or outlet.* This many armed, islet-adorned, and hill- 
encircled little loch, fringed here and there with golden 
sand, presents a lake-picture of peculiar and entrancing 
loveliness. Indeed, it may well be termed, Blue Mountain 
Lake in miniature. Until the completion of the Carthage 
& Adirondack R. R.f to this locality, few were aware of 
the existence of this veritable dream of beauty ; but it is 
now so easily accessible, that increasing numbers of visitors 
are attracted thither; and as a natural result, cottages are 
being rapidly built on its margin, and sites for numerous 
others are in great demand. Residents of Utica, Rome 
and Syracuse, are enabled, by the admirable train service 
offered them, to breakfast at home and dine the same day 
at Star Lake. No other Adirondack resort offers equal 
accessibility and none greater attractions J 

On a commanding site, at a convenient distance from the 
lake, stands the Star Lake House, which, with its recent 
improvements, offers fair accommodations to travelers. 

The Edgewood House — hidden among the trees — has 
also a pleasant situation, affording an extensive view of the 
lake. It receives its share of public patronage, and has 
been accorded much praise. 

The Cottage Hotel, if not so pleasantly situated as the 
others, is well patronized throughout the season. The 
post office (Oswegatchie, N. Y.) is in the house. 

The pretty and unique little school-house near, with its 

5 or 6 pupils, is an object of curiosity and admiration to 
visitors. 

* During wet seasons several tiny streams discliarge into the lake, tlie lat- 
ter outpouring ttirough. a small channel into Fairy Pond. 

t Many people, seeking summer-homes in the Adirondacks are taking ad- 
vantage of the pleasant and easy access to them afforded by the Carthage 

6 ADIRONDACK R. R., now Controlled by the N. Y. C. R. R. Co. Tourists 
passing over this well-conducted line are treated with marked attention and 
courtesy. With its heavy grades and fine forest scenery it IS a very interest- 
ing line of travel. 

jFrom Carthage, by this line, the distance to Lake Bonaparte, is IT m.; to 
Jl^rrisvllle, 20% m.; to Jayville, 29X m-; to Star Lake,.4lH m. 



142 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The tourist will be richly repaid for ascending Bald or 
Sunset Mountain, rising near the Star Lake House. Al- 
though mostly devoid of large trees, it is clothed with ver- 
dure to the very crown. By the well-kept footpath, pret- 
tily fringed with shrubbery, the easy ascent can be made 
within lo or 15 minutes. The summit, though of but slight 
elevation, commands a delightful view of the various points, 
bays and islands of the lake, as well as of the dark heights 
of the forest surrounding Cranberry Lake, a wilderness in 
other directions seemingly interminable, and different 
mountain peaks that stretch in cerulean fairness across the 
far horizon of the east. We know of few views so satisfac- 
tory to be enjoyed with so little effort. 

Panther Mt. (Maple Hill) with beautifully wooded slopes, 
rises from the W. shore; and a somber, nameless peak lifts 
its crown at the N. W., near Lake View Point. This 
might appropriately be called Rocky- Mt.-in-disguise, as no 
one would imagine when viewing its dense evergreen cover- 
ing that it is girdled by precipitous rocks, the formation of 
which is of singular quality; similar in some respects to the 
marble so extensively quarried at Gouverneur. Here the 
curiosity-seeker would find a very satisfactory field for re- 
search. 

Lake View Point is a beautiful, foliage-clad promon- 
tory reaching far into the lake, and offering from its elevated 
heights enchanting views in many directions. No finer site 
was ever furnished by nature for a grand hostelry ; yet it is 
still unoccupied, while hundreds of people each year pass 
on to far less desirable resorts, per force of circumstances, 
being refused admission to this enchanted land, because 
the hotel accommodations at Star Lake are far too limited 
for the great demand. 

The scene surveyed from Ridge Point, which extends 
from the S. W. side of the lake, is also of absorbing inter- 
est, as ten distinct radii, sufficient to satisfy any reasonable 
STAR, may be counted. The neck of Ridge Point is so 
narrow that boats are frequently dragged or carried across 
it, from one lake to the other ("Second" to "Third"). 

The extremities of Ridge and Lake View Points nearly 
touch each other, and form a charming strait, which flows 
from ''Second" to "Third" Lake. 



STAR LAKE SECTION. I43 

Lulu Island, in form and dress of singular grace and 
loveliness, is separated from Long Island by a little chan- 
nel just wide enough to permit the passage of a boat. 

The exquisite Echo Bay on the S. side, with its moss- 
clad banks and wealth of forest — solid walls of somber spruce 
— and Lonesome Bay on the N. W. side (recently receiving 
the more suitable name, Francesca) — long, weird and lovely 
— are attractions that should not be overlooked. 

Several sparkling streams within a mile or two of the 
hotels, and Little River, i% to 2j^ m. away, afford fine 
trouting; while other sequestered waters still more distant, 
offer abundant sport. 

Of the numerous short excursions which may be made 
in this neighborhood, the following deserve particular 
mention : — 

The Twin Lakes (ji x }i and }{ x }i), affluents of Lit- 
tle River, lying i^ m. N. E. of the Star Lake House, are 
peculiarly attractive. That portion of the route, which is 
a branch of the main highway, is a fragrant aisle through a 
beautiful forest, and a walk or ride under overarching trees, 
with interlacing foliage, conducts us to a spot of gentle 
loveliness. The evergreens, clothing in rich profusion the 
high ridge (75 ft.) separating the two lakes, which lie with- 
in a few rods of each other, afford delicious coolness while 
we rest in their shadow, and give an additional charm to 
this sylvan retreat. These tarns (one Oyi ft. higher than 
the other, into which it flows) are nourished by mountain 
springs pure and cold, and are amply stocked with trout; 
but though open to public inspection, no trespassing will 
be allowed, as they are private property. There is a 
hatchery on the grounds capable of producing 300,000 fry 
yearly ; three times as many as are needed to supply these 
waters. 

Another lakelet not far away is styled Anderson's Pond; 
named after the proprietor of this preserve. 

Benson Mines, terminus of C. & A. R. R., 43 J m. N. E. 
of Carthage, and 2% m. N. E. of Star Lake by a fairly 
good road, are well worthy of the attention of the scientific. 
At this place the Magnetic Iron Ore Co. has erected exten- 
sive works, and is producing, from vast beds of iron exist- 



144 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ing in the vicinity, an immense quantity of superior ore. 
The village is of considerable size and shows great activity. 
Little River noted for its numerous (small) trout, passes 
near. 

Heath P. (^ x i^), a secluded deer-resort and source 
of Little River, lies about 3 m. E. of Benson's. 

Sternberg's, on the Big Inlet, 4 ^ S. of Benson's, is reached 
via the old "Albany" or "Military Road"; the route passing 
near Lost or Lonesome P. and Hick's P., whence Cranberry 
Lake may be visited. 

A road also extends from Benson Mines to Cranberry 
Lake; distance about 8 m. A daily stage connects with 
the cars and conveys passengers to that lake, where steamer 
is taken for Hare wood Park Hotel, formerly Cranberry 
Lake House. (See Cranberry Lake.) 

It is reported that the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. is 
to be extended to the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R.; 
forming a junction with that line at Lake Lila, (Smith's 
Lake). (See p. 114 ) 

One should not fail to visit Little River Falls, i^ m. S. 
W. of the lake. To make this excursion, cross to the 
farther side, and debark from what is called "Third Lake". 
Thence there is a good path that soon strikes a lumber- 
road, and after following this a short distance (r.) the path 
is resumed (1.) * (Little Twin Ponds and Beaver Meadow 
Pond opening into one of them may be visited en route by 
diverging (1.) and following a well-marked path a few 
rods.) We soon cross a beaver-meadow, where unmistakable 
signs of deer are seen. Here may be observed what seems 
to be an insignificant beaver-pool, (3^ m. from the lake,) 
which nearly all pass by unnoticed. But do not fail to take 
a boat — usually moored by the shore; and soon, while 
gliding over the placid waters, you will enter a fairy-land 
of almost unknown and rarely visited beauty. This has 
received the name of Fairy Pond, and is composed of 3 
sheets closely linked together. Near the first, a remarkable 
ledge, displaying bare and precipitous sides, rises boldly 
from the leafy depths of the woods, a unique and con- 
spicuous object in the landscape. At the narrows, the 
boughs overhead fairly interlock, forming a canopy of con- 



LITTLE RIVER FALLS. BROWN S FALLS, 1 45 

stant shade. In fine, with its arching gateways, rich green 
forest and verdure-draped banks, it is difficult to imagine 
a more charming picture of serene and shaded loveliness 
than this little tarn presents. 

Resuming the tour we pass through a handsome forest, 
and finally the path descends abruptly to Little River. 
Here a captivating scene of absolute seclusion greets the 
eye. The stream, of considerable volume, rushes impetu- 
ously through a narrow chasm, and forms a picturesque 
cascade 20 feet high; the waters rebounding gracefully 
from their rocky bed. The white foam of the falling tor- 
rent, the seething rapids whirling by, the murmuring music 
of the moving flood, and the wild and romantic character 
of the environs, render this spot one of the loveliest resorts 
to be found in this entire section. 

A rew rods below the falls, on the bank of the stream, 
where delicious water bubbles up, picnic parties often take 
their lunch, the bill of fare perchance including crispy trout, 
freshly taken from the river. 

A visit to Brown's Falls should not be missed. Indeed 
it is a favorite point of pilgrimage with sojourners at Star 
Lake. The route leads to Oswegatchie Station, 2% m.; 
thence to Oswegatchie River, 3 miles ; crossing Little 
River twice, here a stream of respectable size. The drive 
thither offers a succession of landscapes in which there is 
a delightful mingling of forest, field and flood. One charm- 
ing scene succeeds another like enchantment, — here wild, 
there pastoral — until the very falls are reached. Here the 
full width of the Oswegatchie makes a descent of from 50 
to 75 ft., in 3 or 4 pitches, within y^ mile. The flashing 
silver of the leaping waters, the luxuriant foliage gracing 
the banks, and the picturesque rocks and islands that bor- 
der and divide the current, form altogether one of the fin- 
est pieces of river scenery we have yet surveyed in all our 
wanderings ; and should a day be spent around this spot, 
one would long to return again and again to its romantic 
loveliness. 

From Brown's Falls the ride may be continued with 
much enjoyment down the smiling valley of the Oswe- 
gatchie, through ever-changing scenery, to Fine, 3^ m. 

13 



146 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

farther. The road from Star Lake to this point (9 m.), 
either via Brown's Falls or Blue Mt., is excellent nearly all 
the way. This busy little village, with its pretty cascades, 
mineral wealth and pleasant surroundings, offers a very 
agreeable resting-place for an hour or two, or for several 
days. At the St. Nicholas — a good hotel — the traveler 
will find a well-spread table and rural comfort. Stage 
daily to Gouverneur; fare, $1.50 or $1.75 ; distance, 24^ 
miles. 



Before leaving this section we feel warranted in inviting 
especial attention to this favored locality. First, not to 
name the ease with which it is reached, its elevation should 
be considered, as Star Lake is nearly 2,000 ft. above the 
level of the sea. Next, its healthfulness should be remem- 
bered, as no malarial marshes pollute its borders; the 
shores being clean and high. The environing forest is of 
rare luxuriance; and the clearing on the north side, inter- 
spersed with handsome groves and emerald fields harmo- 
niously blended, gives variety and completeness to the 
landscape, while it furnishes the various products of its 
farms, to the neighboring cottagers. No element of beauty 
is lacking here ; though grandeur may be absent, as no 
i^/y mountains disclose their sublime heights. Owing to 
the size and peculiar shape of the lake, it is rarely tossed 
in dangerous waves ; therefore boating is much safer than 
on the larger sheets. 

To the sportsman also, this district has its attractions, as 
the lake has been repeatedly stocked with trout, and fine 
specimens are often taken from its waters. Furthermore, 
like Humes', it lies on the very verge of the wildest por- 
tion of the "Great Wilderness," where the pleasures of the 
"line and the chase" maybe enjoyed to the utmost. 

Streeter's L. (^ x Yz) is reached from Star Lake as fol- 
lows : Good road, i^ m. S. E. to Moncrief's, a farm-house 
on the margin of the wilderness. Thence trail 31^ m. 
This is a lovely lake, adorned with several sand beaches 
and a forest peculiarly attractive. It is a famous deer re- 
sort, though not prolific of trout. Its outlet affords fine 
fishing. From this sheet one may strike, within ij4 or 2 ra., 



BIG INLET OF THE OSWEGATCHIE. I47 

the noted Middle Branch and a net-work of glittering 
waters more remote. (For Wolf, Cage's, Long, Sand and 
Rock Lakes, etc., see pp. 137, 138.) 

The road above named passes the pleasant "Walker 
Place" (i m. from Star L.) — a well cultivated homestead, 
carved out of the forest. This is the home of a noted fam- 
ily of pioneers, who have long contributed to the pleasure 
and convenience of sportsmen visiting this locality. ''John 
James," next to the eldest of several brothers, is a man 
of untiring energy and of the strictest integrity. He 
stands ready at any hour to serve the wants of those desir- 
ing shelter, the productions of the farm, or a conveyance in 
any direction. We unhesitatingly commend this sturdy son 
of the wilderness to those who require faithful service, in 
his line of business. 

Again, pursuing the road from Walker's, 5 m. farther — 
leaving Moncrief's to the right — we reach Sternberg's (6 
m. from Star Lake) located on the Big Inlet (E. Branch of 
the Oswegatchie) at "Albany Bridge," so named from a 
rude structure which many years ago spanned the river 
here.* This is on the line of "The Old Albany or Military 
Road," so often mentioned in this work. (Seep. 112.) 
The "Emilyville Road," named on p. 125, terminated at 
this point. This place is at the head of about 2 >^ m. of 
rapids, on which, about June ist, we have a few days of 
fine fishing, as the trout seem to run up from Cranberry 
Lake. Quite a number are caught every year weighing 4 
and even 5 lbs. each. From the /oo^ of the rapids, around 
which we must carry 3 m., it is about 3 m. by river — called 
"the flow" — to the lake proper, whence it is some 9 m, to 
Harewood Park Hotel, at the foot of that sheet. A little 
steamer belonging to the hotel, if notified, meets parties 
coming from Star Lake and Sternberg's, at the head of "the 
flow," and conveys them to that resort. Several handsome 
cottages will be noticed en route, notably those of A. Ames 
Howlett and A. H. Hiscock of Syracuse. In passing along 
the rapids the traveler should turn aside to examine Big 

* The thirsty traveler, journeying towards Sternberg's, should pause, yi 
m. beyond Walker's, at "Dawson's Spring," a crystal fountain, icy cold, pure 
and sweet, embowered in evergreens near the road (r.) 



148 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and Little Falls, 1^ and % m. respectively, below Stern- 
berg's,* as they are worthy of inspection. 

The accommodations at the Inlet House, (P. O. Benson 
Mines, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y.) are simple; but the house 
is clean, the food sufficient and the charges reasonable. 
Many are content to remain here for weeks ; some for the 
entire season. It will be remembered that this place is not 
only accessible from Star Lake, but from Benson Mines, 
4^ m. distant, by road. 

Above the Inlet House, a Stillwater extends to High 
Falls, a distance of about 19 miles. By road it is only 6 
m. to that point. Within 16 m. by river (Washburn's 
Camp midway) or 5 m. by road, we reach a vast, natural, 
treeless meadow, embracing from 400 to 600 acres, styled 
"The Plains", which is embosomed in mountains, densely 
wooded to the crowns, and is the favorite feeding-ground 
of deer. The soil, though mostly composed of magnetic 
sand, yields strawberries and whortleberries in abundance. 
This ideal trout-stream threads its serpentine course 
through a lovely valley about ^ m. wide, bordered on both 
sides with a virgin forest. The interspersing evergreens, 
adorning in rich variety this fair vale, give a park-like as- 
pect to the scene ; and we almost imagine, as we float 
along that we are gliding by the well-kept grounds of some 
English gentleman. 

Twelve m. up the river (no road) is located the "New 
York Camp," where, in one or more open shanties, com- 
fortable shelter is found. High Falls, 7 m. above this 
place by stream, though rather difficult to reach, will amply 
repay the visitor, as they are charming enough. And here 
the angler rarely fails to secure an abundance of trout. 
Carrying around the falls, we are offered fair navigation for 
4 m. Within the first mile we cross the boundary of Dr. 
Webb's Preserve. In this long stretch of 23 miles, only 2 
carries of a dozen rods each occur. 

Fine river scenery is not only afforded on a trip up the 
Big Inlet, but hunting and fishing of remarkable excellence. 
Among the spring-holes abounding on this route the most 
important are the famous "Cages," at the mouth of the out- 

* Our thanks are due to Mr. Sternberg for reliable information furnished. 



GOUVERNEUR. 149 

let of Cage's L., lying several miles W.; ''Wolf Creek 
Pool;" "Glory;" and the "Five-mile-rock," 5 m. above the 
Inlet House. Many parties make this ideal trout-stream 
their camping ground ; and well they may, as it is much 
more desirable than that of the lake with its broad, danger- 
ous waters, and dead-tree-lined shores. For the informa- 
tion of sportsmen, it should be stated, however, that these 
privileges are not gratuitous, and that "trouting" and "deer- 
ing" are not "as free as .water". A large tract, embracing 
7,000 acres, through which the Inlet flows, is owned by D. 
C. Connell, who keeps a forester on the ground to collect 
tribute-money. Each person must pay ft. 00 for license to 
fish, hunt or camp for an hour or for all the season. 

From the Inlet House to "The Plains" it is only 5 m. by 
road, and beyond this wagons do not go. From here to 
Big Deer Pond (Colvin's "Lost Lake") it is 6 m. S. E. by 
sled-road, over which baggage is hauled. Near this, are 
Clear, Nick, Tamarack, Long, Cowhorn, Bossout and Cat 
Mountain Ponds, with good sporting at most of them. 

It is also less than 2 m. from Lost L, to the head of 
Mud L., on Bog. R. West a mile or so from the "Plains" 
are the Five Ponds. S. by S. E. 6 m. lies Gull L., also 
reached by sled-road. We pass on the way, West, Gall and 
Cracker Ponds. Two and a half m. S. W. is Nigger L.; and 
Partlow, Oven, Smith's or Lila, (11 m. from the "Plains") 
and other lakes, lie in that section. (See p. 109). From Gull 
L. to Crooked L. it is about 4 m. W. This is the extreme 
head of the Oswegatchie. Numerous small ponds are 
scattered throughout this part of the Wilderness, lying there 
in their sparkling beauty, jewels ornate on the forest's em- 
erald robe.* 

Thirteenth : — Gouverneur — named in honor of Gouver- 
neur Morris, originally proprietor of the most of this town 
— is beautifully located on Oswegatchie River, and is the 
seat of a flourishing academy, and of a thriving trade. A 
rich variety of interesting minerals, including amethyst, 
abounds in the neighborhood. Marble of excellent quality 

* Perhaps all of the lakes and ponds just named lie within the boundaries 
of Dr. Wehh's Ne-ha-sa-ke Pabk, and must not he encroached upon. 



150 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and various colors is found on the bank of the river, about 
4 m. above the village. 

Sawyer's Creek Falls — consisting of several cascades, 
occurring in a gorge extending half-a-mile, and bounded 
by rocky walls from 20 to 50 ft. high — are 4 m. from Gouv- 
erneur and command the admiration of every visitor. 

One of those ancient works constructed by the "Mound- 
builders," so common in the western country, may be in- 
spected in the vicinity ; where within an embankment en- 
closing about three acres, many vestiges of Indian opera- 
tions and their rude sculptural efforts remain. 

The first settlement was made here in 1805, by Dr. Richard Town- 
send and several others, who came through the pathless wilderness from 
Lake George, guided only by a compass. With an outfit of but three 
days' provisions, they were seven days on the route, and experienced 
great hardships and some peril — being followed for a long distance by 
panthers. Finally, when nearly famished and exhausted, they reached 
the Oswegatchie ; where its placid course was broken by a small cas- 
cade, and its channel divided by two beautiful green islands, in the 
present village of Gouverneur. — (Dr. Hough.) 

The Van Buren and the Fuller House are the principal 
hotels. 

Warren Humes, Star Lake, Trout Lake and Cranberry 
Lake, well in the heart of the Wilderness, are the chief re- 
sorts for parties starting from this point. 

From Gouverneur there is a daily stage to Harrisville, 20 
m. (fare $1.50); whence that important district (called 
"Humes") embracing the headwaters of the Middle Branch 
of Oswegatchie R., may be visited. (See p. 136.) 

From Gouverneur to Hailesboro the distance is 21^ m.; 
thence to Fowler, 4}( m.; Fullerville, 2^ m.; Edwards, 
5^ m.; Fine, 9^ m. Total, 24^ m. Stages daily from 
Gouverneur to Fine; fare $1.50 or Si«75- (St. Nicholas 
Hotel. See p. 146.) 

The construction of the Gouverneur & Oswegatchie R. 
R. to Edwards, will doubtless render staging hereafter un- 
necessary. This railway was built in the interest of the 
owners of extensive talc mines, located near the flourishing 
little village. This silicate is used in the manufacture of 
paper.* 

* Tills railroad has since passed into the hands of the N. Y. C. R. R. Co. 



TROUT LAKE. 151 

From Fine we have a choice of two routes to Cranberry 
Lake, ist: — -5 m. main road to "Griffin's", then 6 m. poor 
woods road to ''Landing" at foot of the Stillwater, from 
which, by boat, it is 10}^ m. up the Oswegatchie to the 
foot of the lake— encountering three portages en route of 
^, Yq, and I m. each respectively. This route is rarely 
traveled. 2d: — (and now the favorite route) 61^ m. from 
Fine, good road to Oswegatchie; thence 2^ m. to Star 
Lake; i m. to Walker's; thence rough woods road 5 m. 
to "Big Inlet" of Cranberry Lake. (Sternberg's; see p. 
147) 

From Gouverneur, Trout Lake, (8 or 10 m. distant) may 
be reached by livery direct, or via railroad to Edwards, 14 
or 15 m. Thence it is 2 m. farther, or 3^ m. to the Trout 
Lake House, whose stage meets every train and conveys 
passengers to^that resort. Fare, about 40 cents. 

It may also be visited from Richville (7 m.) and De 
Kalb Junction (11 m.) ; both stations on R. W. & O. R. R. 

Trout L. (2 X ^) is graced with 21 islands and isltts, 
generally verdure-clad, some wild and picturesque — seem- 
ingly floating like fairy shallops upon the silvery tide. 
The shores are bold and rocky; interspersed with charming 
little sand-margined bays. In some places the banks as- 
sume the form of precipices — though dotted with foliage — 
and are faithfully reflected, with all their colors and tra- 
cery, in this liquid mirror. Trout L. was formerly one of 
the finest bodies of water in Northern New York, as it was 
then bordered with a dense growth of yellow and Norway 
pine, spruce, cedar and tamarack trees. But the cupidity 
or the lumberman outweighed the sentiment of the traveler, 
and the axe has made sad havoc among the surroundings. 
It will be seen, however, that its attractions have not all de- 
parted ; and should the efforts being made to prevent fur- 
ther devastation prove successful, the timber will renew it- 
self sufficiently within a few years, to restore to its pristine 
beauty most of the forest scenery so ruthlessly destroyed. 

A large hotel (Trout Lake House ; P. O. Hermon, or 
Edwards, N. Y.) offers good entertainment ; and two little 
steamers give delightful excursions to tourists. Numerous 



152 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

cottages adorn the banks, giving interest and animation to 
the place.* 

Cedar L. lies within Y^ m. ; Wolf L , 2 m.; Clear L, 2^ 
m.; Mud L., 3^ m.; Huckleberry L., 3 m.; and Chub L,, 
41^ m. All of these except Cedar, are in the woods. They 
form an interesting group and merit examination. 

Fourteenth : — From De Kalb Junction (Goulding 
House) to Hermon, 5 m. ; Russell (Grass River), 6 m.; 
Clarksboro (Clifton Hotel), 11 m.; Clifton Iron Mines, 

2 m ; thence to Cranberry Lake, 11^ m. Total, 35^ m.f 
There is a daily stage from DeKalb Junction to Russell, 
where conveyances may be obtained for the balance of the' 
route. The R. R. connecting the Iron Mines with E. De- 
Kalb Station is not in operation now. In fact it never 
was employed as a transit for passengers, being solely used 
by the Clifton Iron Co., by which it is owned, in the trans- 
portation of iron ore, that exists in considerable quantities 
in the neighborhood. 

Clarksboro is 3 m. in the woods, and is pleasantly situ- 
ated at the foot of Clifton High Falls, on Grass R. Allen 
Pond lies i^ m. N. 

From DeKalb Junction to Clarksboro and thence to the 
bridge over Grass R. (5 m.) the road is good. Fine fishing 
from this point up the river. Copper Falls and the veins 
oi copper near well repay a visit. Bridge to Tooley P. 2^ 
m ; road, fair. This is a beautiful sheet of water nearly i 
mile long, and noted as a favorite resort of deer. Thence 

3 m. of poor road to Cook or Davis Pond. One m. beyond 
this we strike Oswegatchie R., just above "The Old Indian 
Fishing Ground," an old-time resort of the Oswegatchie 
Indians, a place once famous for the size and quantity of 
its trout. From here boats descend this beautiful stream 
83^ m. to the foot of the Stillwater; fine camping spots and 
spring-holes occurring on the way. J Thence it is 11 m. by 

* To the accomplislied woodsman and surveyor, James McKee, Jr., of Ed- 
wards, N. Y., we desire to express our acknowledgments for imparting val- 
uaiDle materials used in these pages, 
t From DeKalb Junction to Fine, it is about 25 m. (See p. 152.) 
X In this reach of 8>^ m., three portages must he made of %, % and l m. 
carry from this Stillwater N. to Moose Head P.; and S. about 2 m. to Benson's 
Mines. See p. 143. 



CRANBERRY LAKE. I53 

road through the woods to Fine. At this point is an old 
mill dam, near the site of a former settlement made by G. 
M. Dillon and others, long since deserted. Dillon Pond, a 
charming, oval-shaped lakelet, lies in the neighborhood. 
The abandonment of the mill dam leaves nearly Y^ m. of 
bad rapids immediately above ; so, although there is i mile 
of Stillwater above these, the traveler would better remain 
in the wagon 2 m, farther to the foot of the lake, or pro- 
ceed still farther (^ m.) along the shore to Harewood Park 
Hotel. This establishment is located at the terminus of 
the road, in full view of the lake and Silver P. (13^ x ^), 
but 65 rods away. What was known as the Cranberry Lake 
House, has passed into the hands of the Harewood Park 
Hotel Co. The Bishop tract of 75 acres, the Gilbert lot of 
42 acres, and the Hodskin lot of T12 acres, have become 
the property of this incorporated association. These com- 
bined possessions present a grand lake-frontage of more 
than a mile in extent. While the original hotel has been 
greatly improved, an additional structure of large size has 
been erected, having all the modern improvements. The 
parlors and apartments are spacious and tastefully fur- 
nished. A special feature of this house is its variety of 
home-comforts. The cuisine is of unusual excellence and 
the table will be maintained at the highest standard. Not 
to name trout and venison, that seasonably abound, the 
hotel-farm of 75 acres furnishes fresh eggs, milk, butter and 
vegetables in abundance. Several neat and commodious 
cottages will be immediately constructed, facing the water, 
where families can have all the privacy and conveniences 
of their own homes. (Later. The company now possesses 
15,000 acres. 

The Harewood Park Hotel, in its entirety, can enter- 
tain 175 guests. (P. O., Harewood, N. Y.) Boats and 
guides may be obtained here and a little steamer will 
convey parties to different points on the lake. 

Cranberry, or Oswegatchie Lake, (9 m. long and 5 m. 
wide, with the overflow) is really an expansion of Oswe- 
gatchie River, which, rising by three branches in N. part of 
Herkimer Co , pursues a circuitous course of 125 m. through 



154 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

St. Lawrence Co., in a N. W. direction, and unites with St. 
Lawrence River at Ogdensburg.* 

Several islands bedeck this lake, among which are "Buck," 
*'Birch," "Gull Rock," and "Matilda." Its waters, and 
those of its inlets and outlet, are plentifully supplied with 
fish, having yielded in some instances, speckled trout 5 lbs. 
in weight; and the hunting around it is still very good, 
though somewhat injured in reference to deer, by the 
raising of the lake some 15 ft. by means of the dam at the 
foot. The marginal scenery is also seriously affected by 
the same agency, as numerous "drowned" trees standing 
in the water near the shores, greatly mar its beauty. It is 
encompassed by highlands of fair proportions, and Bear, 
Long Joe, Graves, Cat and Edgar Mts. soar far above the 
surrounding heights. Iron Mt. about 4 m. from the lake, 
(E.) is composed mostly of pure metallic iron. 

The summit of Bear Mt., only i m. from the hotel, is 
easily reached by good path and offers a fine view. 

Clear Pond, E., and Lily Pad P., (source of Brandy 
Creek) N. E., are accessible by trails. 

Curtis Pond is reached by rowing up E. Inlet as far as 
practicable, and following thence a good, but ascending 
path 2 m. "This," said the distinguished angler, the late 
lamented " Uncle " Reuben Wood, " is an all-fired nice 
pond, abounding with the prettiest trout I ever saw." A 
legend says that one can catch but a certain number of the 
spotted beauties here ; after v/hich no lure, however tempt- 
ing — be it bait or fly — will induce this noble game of the 
fountain to take the hook. Mud P. is ^ m. N. E. of Curtis 
P., whence it is a short distance E. to Trout P. Thence a 
carry leads E. i^^ m. to Panther P., from which we carry 
W. of S. '^ m. to Triangle P. A carry also leads from 
Trout P., S. E. ii^ m. to Silver L., lying S. W. of Triangle 
P. Lake Colvin lies between Cranberry and Silver L's. 
and near the latter. Lying N. of L. Colvin is Beaver 

* Os-we-gatcMe or Og7)-swa-gatcMe, (locally known as the Oshegoshy,) is an 
Indian name, wliicli signifies going or coming round a liiLl. Tlie great tend 
m Oswegatcliie River, on the horders of Lems County, originated its sig- 
nihcant name. An Indian tribe, hearing the name of the river, once lived 
upon Its hanks; hut its fate, lll^e that of many sister tribes, has been to melt 
away hefore the progressive step of the Anglo-Saxon. (Simms.) Sabattis 
denned Oswegatch as meaning slow and long. 



V€/f 







Address W. R. BISHOP, Manager, U^l^ 




J3WOOD, St. Lawrence County, N. Y. 



ENVIRONS OF CRANBERRY LAKE. 155 

Meadow P.; and S. W. of that is Lake Ely. Heath P. lies 
W. of Cranberry Lake. (See p. 144.) 

Crooked Lake, the extreme source of the Oswegatchie, 
lying 12 m. S., is reached by pursuing a line indicated by 
marked trees. It is much more easily visited, however, 
from the Red Horse Chain. (See p. 108.) ♦ 

Grass R. is 2^ m. N. E. of the hotel by carry — crossing 
on the way Silver P., "beautiful as a mirror of silver, set in 
a framework of emeralds, festooned with lilies." A short 
distance up the stream is the Reservoir. From here a road 
leads to Colton. Grass R. affords some fine stillwaters 
and trout-fishing, especially below the Reservoir, and is 
wildly attractive. Some of its scenery, however, in the 
approach to Massawepie L., its principat fountain-head, is 
dismal enough. 

Big Inlet (Oswegatchie R.) enters the head of Cranberry 
L. about 9 m. from the hotel. To this point, and 3 m. 
farther, up the river, the steamer carries travelers. The 
stream is very enticing to sportsmen. In ascending it, we 
carry 3 m. around the rapids to the old "Albany Bridge," 
(Sternberg's). From there the route is given on p. 148 . 
At the foot of the rapids just named, the fly may be cast 
profitably, as here the large speckled trout congregate in 
considerable numbers. 

From the Big Inlet we may reach the pretty little 01m- 
stead P. by carrying 2 m. S. E. Near this (S. W.) are two 
other tiny sheets. S. of Olmstead, and in the vicinity of 
Glasby and Fish Pole P's. is Cat Mt., a panther resort. 

There are numerous excellent deer and trout ponds 
adjacent to Cranberry Lake, that have never been laid 
down upon any map. It is claimed by good authorities, 
that there are more than 100 sheets of water within 7 m. of 
the hotel. So it may easily be believed this lake and its 
environs afford an extensive field for the sportsman. 

The noted trout pools of this section are in Brandy 
Brook, E. side of the lake ; in Basin Brook, entering the 
Oswegatchie i m. below the dam ; and at "Cook's Spring 
Hole," 4 m. farther down that stream. 

The best and most suitable sites for camps will be found 
on the beautiful Oswegatchie, both above and below the lake. 



156 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Adventurous parties sometimes penetrate the Bog River 
region from Cranberry L., and proceed thence to Tupper 
Lake by the following routes : 

1. 

By boat, i m. up Chair Rock Creek, entering the lake's 
S. E. extremity; thence carry 2 m. S. W.; thence cross 
Oval, or Darn Needle P.; thence carry 2j^ m. S. E. to 
Fourth P. There is also a portage opened from Chair 
Rock C. to the headwaters of Bog R.; distance 3 m. (See 
Route "3." 

2. 

Carry from Darn Needle or Oval P., (really two sheets 
connected by a narrow neck) 2 m. S. E.; cross Grass P.; 
carry 2 m. S. E , striking Bog R. a little below Mud Lake. 
Or carry from Oval P. to Gull P. (i x |) ^ m. S. E. (pass- 
ing John's P., a wild and lonely sheet, about midway of 
the route); thence carry i m. S. E., to Graves P. (See "3") 

3. 

From Curtis P., carry about 3 m, S. E.; cross Silver L., 
V2 m ; carry )^ m. S. W.; cross Otter P., ^ m.; carry i m, 
S. W.; cross Graves' P., ^ m.; carry ^/^ m. S. W.; cross 
Fourth Pond ^ m.; pass down stream ^ m.; cross 
Three Chain Ponds (ist, 2d and 3d) i^ m.; pass down 
Bog River, 4 m.; carry 30 rods; cross Hitchings' P., ^ m.; 
pass down Bog R., \% m., and up Horse Shoe P, Outlet, 
1 1/^ ra.; cross Horse Shoe P., i m.; thence carry over good 
road, 3 m. to Big Tupper Lake. Distance from Cran- 
berry Lake about 23 m. The portages are not cut out 
to any extent, but this could be accomplished with little 
labor, as they are not very difficult. {^See route from Big 
Tupper to Mud Lake?) 

When ordered, a stage will run from the hotel to the 
dam on Grass R., S/^ to 7 m. distant, whence boats may 
be taken for Childwood Park House, 4 m. up that stream, 
if timely notice has been given. (See Lake Massawepie.) 



CANTON. 157 

Fifteenth: — Canton, the county seat of St. Lawrence Co., 
is a lively manufacturing village situated on Grass R., here 
affording great hydraulic power. It contains the county 
buildings, the St. Lawrence University — a very popular 
school attended by young men from all parts of the U. S. — 
and a number of fine churches. The leading hotels are the 
Haven and American, where good liveries are kept. 

A vein of hematite and magnetic iron ore combined, of 
remarkable richness, has recently been discovered in the 
neighborhood. In the S. part of the town, about i m. be- 
low the High Falls on Grass R. this stream issues from a 
cleft in the rock, forming a most romantic scene. Here 
sulphuret of iron abounds ; and large quantities of cop- 
peras and alum have been manufactured. 

A neat little steamer offers delightful excursions from 
the village up Grass R. 5 m. to a handsome grove, fitted up 
for the use of pleasure parties. 

Canton being located nearly midway between DeKalb 
Junction and Potsdam, is a desirable point of departure 
for either the Raquette, Grass or Oswegatchie sporting 
grounds. It is but 5 m. farther to the Raquette than from 
Potsdam, and 5 to 7 farther to Fine, than from DeKalb 
Junction or Gouverneur. Thus the sportsman can change 
his route, without extra cost or time if so disposed. The 
distance to Colton is 14 m.; stage daily. (Thence see 
route from Potsdam). 

Route to Cranberry Lake : Canton to Clarksboro, 
23 m.; thence the route is identical with the one leading 
from De Kalb Junction, p. 152 ; making total distance to 
Cranberry L , 36^ m. 

From Canton to Fine it is 30 m. by good road. For 
route thence see p. 151. 

At Canton good teams with careful drivers may be ob- 
tained at the Haven House. The journey to Moose Head, 
on the Raquette, to Cranberry L., or to Star L. is made 
in a day. Boats can be carried over these routes safely 
and without extra charge, by means of a rack on which 
they are placed overhead, entirely out of the way. Very 
light boats— marvels of beauty and symmetry— especially 

14 



158 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

adapted to this locality, can be purchased here of the m 
FAMOUS Adirondack boat manufacturer, J. H. Rush- ■ 
ton.* 

Sixteenth: — Potsdam, a flourishing village, settled in 
1803 by Benj. Raymond from Richmond, Mass., is located 
on Raquette River, here "divided by islands, broken by 
rapids, and furnishing an extensive water-power," It is a 
pleasant town, possessing great beauty of situation, many 
fine streets and handsome buildings, and is the site of the 
"State Normal and Training School for Northern New 
York." Its several large mills and factories, and exhaust- 
less quarries of the celebrated Potsdam Sandstone, (form- 
ing elegant and invaluable material for building or flagging 
purposes,) give life and animation to the place. f There 
are two good hotels, viz : the Albion and the Windsor. 
At either of these, guides and conveyances may be procured. 

To Russell it is 18 m.; thence to Cranberry L. 24 1/^ m. 
(Seep. 152). 

This route to the Great Wilderness up Raquette River 
and Valley is generally much underrated and only occa- 
sionally followed by the general tourist ; but it really pos- 
sesses attractions in the way of diversified scenery and 
sporting opportunities, rarely excelled. A pleasant ride of 
only 4 hours from the cars, over an excellent road (21^ 
miles), is all the exertion it costs to reach good fishing and 
hunting territory. 

To Colton, the last place of importance on the route, it 
is 9 m. This is a thriving village, pleasantly situated also 
on Raquette R., where this stream hurls its liquid treasure 
down a steep declivity 60 ft. and thence descends 300 ft. 
in rapids and cataracts, within 2 m.; forming a spectacle of 

*To tMs model sportsman we are inaelited for essential information ren- 
dered regarding this and other routes. 

ton the flight of Sir John Johnson and his followers through the pathless 
forest, fi'om Johnstown to Canada in 1716, in which they experienced terrible 
hardships for 19 days and nearly pei'ished from hunger, it is said, that as he 
passed down the Raquette, he noticed the Potsdam sandstone piled up in 
heautiful regularity hy nature with all the symmetry of art, along its hanks, 
and predicted that a city would be bnilt some day in the vicfntty of that stone. 
More than thirty years afterwards he enquired of one from that place at 
Montreal, if any use had heen made of that stone ledge.— HoMg'Ti. 



POTSDAM ROUTE. RAQUETTE RIVER. 159 

wildness and grandeur, that elicits the highest admiration 
of the spectator. It contains a thriving hotel, the "Empire 
Exchange," of whose superior accommodations and man- 
agement any country town in the State might be proud. 
The proprietors appreciate the wants of their guests and 
cater to their tastes in a courteous and satisfactory manner. 
The ample livery connected with the establishment is con- 
ducted with special reference to sporting parties. 

From Colton to South Colton ("Three Falls") on the 
Raquette, a lively little village, it is 4^ m.; thence to Stark's 
Falls (a charming cascade on the Raquette, of 40 ft.) at 
the foot of Little Bog it is 8 m. Here, at the "Forest 
House," the sportsman takes his first meal (always an 
excellent one) in the woods; here also boats are taken, 
and at this point the sporting field commences. This 
pleasant hotel possesses adequate facilities for supplying 
the wishes of transient customers or those who desire per- 
manent board while availing themselves of the attractions 
and advantages offered by the Bog and the surrounding 
ponds. Boats and guides can be engaged here at any 
tim.e. (P. O., Stark, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y.) 

From the Forest House it is 2 m. N. E. by good road 
and path to Joe Indian P. (2 x ij^); so called from an 
eccentric Indian hunter named "Joe" who lived and died 
near its shores. It is a beautiful sheet abounding with 
large trout, and is also the frequent haunt of deer. Save 
a small clearing at the foot, the forest around is un- 
broken. A carry leads to W. Branch of St. Regis R., 
3 m. S. of E. 

Several miles S. E. of Joe Indian P. is Kildare P.; and 
E. of that, perhaps 2 m., is Whitney Pond. 

Trout or Boulton P., lies near the main road, a short 
distance from the Forest House, N. W.; and N. of that is 
Berkley Pond. 

From Stark's Falls the journey is continued by boat or 
wagon at the traveler's option. Proceeding by land, a 
drive of 6^ m. over a fair woods road, carries us to the 
"Jordan House," at the head of the Bog.* 

*0ne should not be misled My this inappropriate name, as tliese "bogs," so 
termed, are really beautiful sheets of still water, bounded by rlcmy wooded 
and flowery shores, with no swamps near them. 



l60 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Continuing from Stark by water, a row of i J^ m. conveys 
us to Bog Falls, the termination of Little Bog. Crossing a 
portage of lo r., (1.) easily accomplished (as the boat is 
drawn over on a track without being unloaded), we reach 
the Jordan House, at the head of Big Bog and near the 
mouth of Jordan River, by an easy row of 5 m. On the 
right are high banks, and in the distance elevated hills ; on 
the left is undulating lowland covered with small timber, 
and in the remote background tower the grand Adiron- 
dacks. On this stretch of Stillwater occurs some of the 
best deer hunting found any where on the route, and this 
is popular camping-ground. 

The Jordan House is well kept, and persons not desiring 
to camp out, but to secure a boarding place in the heart of 
good sporting grounds, will find this a most desirable loca- 
tion. The table is invariably well laden with all the deli- 
cacies the water and forest produce, and each summer 
brings an increasing number of boarders. (P. O., Stark.) 
From here access is easily gained to several lakelets by 
taking a short tramp back from the river. 

Church P. {% X }{) 2^ m. W., famous for deer, and a 
source of Grass R., (N. Branch) is reached by good path. 

Crooked P. (i x ^), affording good "deering" and trouting, 
lies 3^ m. S. by road. (It is more conveniently reached 
from Ferry's.) Clear P. lies farther S. W. 

Nearly opposite the Jordan House, Jordan R. enters the 
Raquette, flowing from Jordan L, (2 x i^) 7 m. E. East 
and N. E. of that, are Otter, Willis, Blue, Rock, Midward, 
and other ponds. South of it are Deer and Windfall P's.; 
and W. and N. W. are Amber L, (i m.), and Marsh, or 
Kildare P. Carry 3 m. N. E. to Potter P.; thence, i m. N. 
E. to McDonald P.; thence % m. N. to Elbow P.; thence 
i^ m. W. to Little Rock P. A large portion of the district 
embracing these waters, comprising four thousand acres 
of wild forest land, is in possession of the Vanderbilts and 
others of New York, forming the Kildare Club, who hold 
it as a grand sportsman's park, or preserve for their exclu- 
sive use. They have erected on Jordan L. a sumptuous 
"Hunting Lodge." Good road from here to Kildare Sta- 
tion, on Northern Adirondack R. R, 6 m. S. E. 



RAQUETTE RIVER ROUTE. l6l 

From Jordan House to Seavey's boat-landings at the foot 
of Moosehead Stillwater, a "draw-by" of 8 m. succeeds, 
passing Rickey's Rapids, Jamestown Falls, Moody Falls 
and Percefield Long Rapids. The proprietor of Jordan 
House and Mr. S., hold themselves in readiness to trans- 
port parties and baggage over this road ; price, $4. Six 
and a half miles above Jordan House, and 2 m. from 
Moosehead, a road branches from this route which former- 
ly led to the head of Big Tupper L., conducting to Child- 
wold, Gale's and foot of Tupper Lake. Distance to the 
latter about 18 m. 

About midway between the Jordan House and Seavey's, 
(3^ m. from Jordan House, 3 m. from Seavey's) on the 
main road, is located the Ferry House, where entertainment 
is furnished to a limited number, at moderate rates. 

Clear P. (^ x i^) (a handsome little lake), i m. W. of 
Ferry's, is reached by a path, passing Bear P. en route. 
Long P. lies W. of Clear Pond. 

Crooked Pond is but a few rods S. of Ferry's. 

Chandler P. (i x J/^), S. W. of Ferry's, is accessible by 
road, I m.; path, ^ m. 

The Windfall House, Johnson Seavey, proprietor, (P. O. 
Childwold), is pleasantly situated at the foot of Moosehead 
Mt. and near Jamestown Falls; a pretty cascade of 25 ft. 
on the Raquette. No better accommodations or table, are 
furnished anywhere on the route than at Seavey's. His 
prices are reasonable and his service excellent. Boats and 
camping outfits provided on order. By stage route it is 3 
m. to Childwold, 6 m. to Gale's, 7 m. to Childwold Park, 
and i^ m. by rough road to Raquette River, 

Near Seavey's (W.) is a small pond. 

Sampson P. (^ x ^), a wild and lonely sheet (reached 
by lumber road) famous for deer, bears and wolves, but not 
for trout, lies 3 m. from Seavey's (W.) on the track of the 
"Great Windfall." In the vicinity, N. and N, W., are 
Bear and Long P's, which, with Sampson, are sources of 
Grass River. 

West of Sampson P. i>^ m. is a brook swarming with 
trout. 



l62 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Leaving by boat the foot of Moosehead Stillwater (6^ 
m, 1.) we have 4 m. of good navigation, passing on the way 
(3 m. up) the line of the "Great Windfall", embracing in 
the Wilderness, an area 50 m. long by 5^ m. wide. 

This is the effect of one of the most remarkable tornadoes that ever 
visited this continent, w^hich occurred on Sept. 20th, 1845, commencing 
in Upper Canada and extending 200 miles in a direct line, almost due 
east, to Lake Champlain, and follovi^ing it to its foot. 

At 3 o'clock P. M. it was at Antwerp; at 5, on the Saranac ; and at 6, 
at Burlington, Vt. 

The work of destruction began one mile E. of Antwerp, and in its 
course through the forest it swept all before it, leaving a track of desola- 
tion half a mile wide, where nothing was left standing. It cut a swath 
as clean and well defined as if the work of a mower's scythe. Its ap- 
pearance was described by those who observed it at a little distance, as 
awfully sublime; being a cloud of pitchy blackness, from which vivid 
lightnings and deafening thunder incessantly proceeded. The air was 
filled to a great height with materials carried up from the earth, and 
branches torn from the trees. Torrents of rain and hail fell along the 
borders of the track, and much damage was done by lightning. It en- 
tered St. Lawrence Co. in Fowler, and crossed that town and Edwai'ds, 
where it entered the uninhabited forest, and was not further witnessed. 
\ Forest Arcadia.^ 

To resume, we then encounter about 50 r. of "quick 
water," succeeded by 2^ m. of easy rowing, terminating 
at the foot of Hedgehog Rapids. The Moosehead Still- 
water is dotted here and there with many pretty islands, 
and as the river winds around and between numerous hills 
and mountains on either side, it presents a great variety of 
pleasing scenery. The forest grows luxuriantly to the 
water's edge, and is mirrored on its glassy surface. This 
Stillwater affords many agreeable camping grounds along 
the dry and pleasant shores. The sportsman, too, will find 
his occupation successful here. From a point near the 
head, a good path leads r. i m. to Childwold, the little 
hamlet near Jock's P. (once famous for deer) and Moose- 
head Mt., 38 m. from Potsdam. 

At Hedgehog or Flat Rock Rapids occurs a portage of 
50 r. (r.). Experienced guides, when the water has been 
low, have rowed up these rapids with great exertion; but 
the usual practice is to tow the boats or carry around them. 
Thence, after traversing Burnt Island Stillwater, ^ m. 1., 
we reach the "Piero," where we carry 1. 6 r. Passing over 



CHILDWOLD PARK. LAKE MASSAWEPIE. 163 

60 r. of rapid water and the Blue Mt. (Matumbala) Still- 
water, 3 m. in extent with one little passage of quick water, 
we arrive at Gale's ("Downey's") Landing, W. side. The 
scenery along the portion of the route just passed is grand 
and beautiful. Some go so far as to say there is no finer 
river scenery in the State. 

Parties wishing to visit Gale's, Massawepie Lake (Child- 
wold Park) and the adjoining waters, leave the liver at 
"Downey's" Landing, and take the good road leading W. 
1% ni. to Catamount Pond. 

The Pond View House, Noah Gale, proprietor, (P. O. 
Gale, N. Y.), is delightfully situated on the banks of this 
pleasant little lake, and supplies every reasonable requisite; 
also boats and transportation. It is a quiet, agreeable 
and home-like resort, still retaining its old-time popularity. 
Entertainment is offered to 80 guests. As Gale has a pri- 
vate trout preserve (within 4 m. of the house by good car- 
riage-road), an ample supply of that dainty fish is always 
at command. His stage meets every train at Childwold 
Station on the Northern Adirondack R. R. (about 6 m.) 
and at station of the same name on the Adirondack & St. 
Lawrence R. R. (about 5 m. distant). 

Lying in the immediate neighborhood of Pond View 
House; is a group of glittering lakelets, irresistibly attrac- 
tive to deer as well as sportsmen. A short passage across 
Catamount P. and thence over a portage of 60 rods W., 
takes us to Massawepie Lake, (^ m, from the hotel) which, 
with its adjacent waters, is greatly admired for its various 
attractions. 

Childwold Park is most charmingly situated on Raquette 
River, among the foot-hills of the Adirondack Mountains. 
It consists of over 5,000 acres and embraces Massawepie — 
the fountain-head of Grass River — and a silvery chain of 
seven lochs and lochans. 

It is evident from the elevated shore-lines extending many miles in 
every direction, that Lake Massawepie was once vastly larger than it 
now is. That it was formerly the bottom of an archaic sea is conclu- 
sively proved by the wave-washed and rounded stones abounding on its 
present shores. The abutments of the huge fire place in the magnifi- 
cent reception-room of the hotel were constructed entirely of these 
stones. 



164 THE ADIRONDACKS 

The site of Childwold Park House, on the elevated shore of this lake 
and 27 feet above its surface, has been bored to the depth of 60 ft. 
through pure sea-shore sand, without reaching the bottom of the depos- 
it. Sea-shells are freely intermingled with the sand. The Adirondack 
Mountains are believed to have been the first land that emerged from 
the Azoic Seas on this continent. That they buttressed the silent corri- 
dors of Time centuries before life was evolved on this earth, is very ap- 
parent. 

It is evident, also, that these mountains are substantially the same 
that they were during the great Ice Age ; for great numbers of aberrant 
boulder-rocks are found just as they were dropped from the retreating 
glaciers. Many of these, weighing from loo to 1,000 tons, may be seen 
in Childwold Park and vicinity. One of the very largest is lodged on 
the oval top of a small, granite hill in the track of the "Great Wind- 
fall". 

As the summer guests stroll through the S. W. part of the Park, 
their attention is arrested by what seems to be an alley-way cut through 
the forest, on which a younger growth has come. This is the old 
Military Road made in 18 12 for transporting our armies from Lake 
George to Lake Oniario or the St Lawrence. (See p. 112.) Now, the 
raven, that 

Ill-omened l)ird, as legends say, 
Wliicli lias the wondrous power to know 
Willie liealtli nils liigli the throliWng- veins, 
The fatal hour when blood must flow,— 

croaks there, as he scans with hungry eyes the deer threading this soli- 
tary path on the way from Arab Mr. to slake his thirst in the clear, cold 
water of Burnt Bridge Pond, where a bridge once existed on this road, 
but was unfortunately burned many years ago. Many of the old cor- 
duroys — logs laid crosswise over the swamp — may still be seen in situ. 
This ancient highway, over which, some say, only one vehicle ever 
passed, continues on and on through the vast forest, skirting Pleasant 
Lake, the head-water of Dead Creek (a fine trout-stream) and Tupper 
Lake ; and from there on to Lake George. At the time the road was 
made, this great forest was the abode of the gigantic moose, or elk, — 
now extinct, to the everlasting shame of the State be it said, which 
should have protected them by stringent laws. It was reported in 1889 
that two of these noble animals were seen making their solitary way 
through the North Woods ; but the report is not generally credited. 
The beaver, too, whose industry had so much to do with the lacustrine 
formation of this region, is also extinct, but the evidences of his industry 
are to be seen everywhere. 

From Lake Ontario to Lake Champlain, one is often asked, what 
aboriginal tribes, if any, inhabited this vast lake and mountain district. 
Their stone implements have been found on the sandy shores of Massa- 
wepie : and bones have been unearthed — possibly those of savages, but 
more likely those of the civilized victims of their tomahawks. {See in- 
troduction.) 

There is an Indian legend that this region was once the habitat of a 
terribly ferocious animal, with claws as long as a person's fingers, which 



CHILDWOLD PARK HOUSE. 165 

the aborigines called the to-ge-sho ("the naked bear"). It made an easy 
prey of all other animals, from the panther and the bear down ; and 
would follow the track of an Indian hunter by scent until overtaking 
and devouring him. It would also enter the wigwams and devour the 
women and children. War was made against this fell destroyer, until 
all but one were exterminated. Then the Indians (so the legend says) 
gathered on a rock by the shore of a lake that had an inlet from the 
north, and on outlet from the south — which describes Lake Massawepie 
— where they waited Knowing that the beast would follow them 
(which he really did) they reckoned upon being able to kill him with 
their tomahawks as he attempted to spring upon the rock ; and were at 
length successful. They cut off his head and sent it to a tribe of sav- 
ages living on the Hudson River, where many other tribes came to see 
the monstrous thing. 

This legend was transmitted from one generation to another from be- 
fore the time that Columbus discovered this continent, and called the 
nation he found here "Indians", supposing that he had reached the true 
India. 

When Sir John Johnson, son of the redoubtable Sir William Johnson, 
and the reputed half-brother of the famous Indian warrior, Tha en-da- 
nega — better known as Brandt — was suspected of disloyalty in 1777, 
Gen. Schuyler sent Col. Dayton to arrest him at his stronghold, Johns- 
town ; but having been warned by his Tory friends at Albany, he hasti- 
ly buried his valuable treasures in his court-yard, and escaped to Can- 
ada with a large following of Indians, by ascending the upper Hudson 
River to its head in the Adirondacks (within a stone's throw of the 
Raquette waters), and descending Raquette River to the St. Lawrence, 
by passes known only to his dusky scouts. This was in mid-winter ; 
and had not the St, Regis Indians sent him aid and supplies from Can- 
ada he must have perished in the Adirondack Wilderness. He was 
probably the first white man who visited these wooded solitudes. (See 
p. 158) 

All attractions of the Adirondack Region are combined 
in a rare degree at Childwold Park and supplemented by a 
fine hotel. The situation of this spacious and elegant hos- 
telry is elevated and delightful. It is nearly surrounded 
by natural forest trees, lending grateful shade and medi- 
cating the mountain air with aromatic fragrance. It com- 
mands an uninterrupted view of lovely Lake Massawepie, to 
the shores of which its extensive lawn gracefully inclines. 
The hotel was built in a very substantial manner, and is 
equipped with everything that can add to the comfort, con- 
venience and amusement of its patrons. A broad piazza 
encircles the building, offering 500 ft. of covered prome- 
nade. Large stone fireplaces enliven the parlor and office. 



l66 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Half-a-dozen Queen Anne cottages, pleasantly located 
conveniently near, may be secured by those who prefer the 
greater retirement of cottage-life. Entertainment is pro- 
vided for 250 guests. The house is well established and 
numbers among its patrons the best class of tourists who 
visit the Adirondacks. Here they find a congenial, restful 
home. Here are united the luxuries of in-door life with 
the more exciting pleasures of out-door sports in the Park, 
the woods and on the lakes. Sporting is excellent, as deer, 
lake and brook-trout and bass are plentiful. Indeed there 
is a peculiar charm about the place which attracts the vis- 
itor from season to season. It is perfectly adapted to fam- 
ilies seeking a quiet retreat and rural life for their children. 
The little folks will find romping grounds here of great 
extent. As fog rarely appears on the lakes, and no marshes 
are near, there is absolute freedom from dampness and 
miasmatic influences. Malaria is unknown. The air is 
cool, dry and invigorating and victims of hay fever experi- 
ence immediate relief. As a health, as well as a pleasure, 
resort, a better location could hardly be found. A resident 
physician is always at command of those who may chance 
to require his services. 

The table is unsurpassed. It is supplied not only with 
the best delicacies that the large city markets afford, but 
with milk, cream, fresh eggs, poultry and vegetables from 
the large farm belonging to the Childwold estate ; also with 
game in the proper season. The establishment is under 
the personal supervision of Mr, Wm. F. Ingold, the accom- 
plished manager of the winter resort, MagnoHa Springs 
Hotel, Florida. This should be sufficient guarantee that 
the Park House is admirably conducted, in all its details. 

In close proximity to the hotel is a fine sand beach, 
where safe bathing is enjoyed. 

A variety of charming drives, walks and boating excur- 
sions forms an especial attraction of Childwold Park. A 
good livery and a large fleet of boats furnish every requi- 
site for driving or boating. Guides are always obtainable 
at the hotel. 



ENVIRONS OF CHILDWOLD PARK. 



167 



Distances from Childwold Pai-k House 

To Pond View House (on opposite side of Cata- 

N. E. 

- N. W. 
- S. 

- s. w. 
s. w. 

- s. w. 
s. w. 

w. 



MILE. 



3 

2 



E. 7 



14 
6 
6 



mount Pond,) 

'' Childwold Post Office, 

" Long Pond, 

" Horse Shoe Pond, - - - S. W. i^ 

" Boot Tree Pond, 

'' Deer Pond (or Egg Pond), 

*' Town Line, 

" Pine Pond (or Outlet Pond), 

*' Tupper Lake (near foot), (by Military 
Road; trail, 5 m.) - - S 

" Tupper Lake (Tupper Lake House, near 

head), - - - E. of S 

'' Center Pond, - - - S 

*' Sardine Pond, . . . _ 

" Silver Lake (passing Panther and Trian- 
gle P's), - - - S. 6>^ 

" Mt. Ma-tum-ba-la (Blue Mt.), (traditional 

burying-place of the Indians) - E. 4 

" Rolling Stone, - - - N. 5 

*' Cranberry Lake, - - - - W. 10 

All the waters mentioned above except "Tupper," "Cran- 
berry," "Silver," "Panther" and "Triangle" (the last three 
named feeding Bog River), are sources of Grass River, (Ind., 
Ni-kent-si-a key "full of large fishes;" French, riviere de 
grasse, "fat, or fertile river," from the natural meadows near 
its mouth,) which, with its 3 branches, rising in the S. E. 
part of St. Lawrence Co., flows in a northerly direction to 
Sr. Lawrence River, and enters it opposite to Cornwall 
Island, Canada. This river is still the home of the trout. 
Its length may be 115 miles. It will be observed that it 
nearly touches Raquette River, (Ind., Ni-ha-na-wa-te, 
"racket, noisy, or sounding river." See Raquette Waters) 
their head-waters actually commingling in time of freshets. 

Cranberry Lake may be reached from Childwold Park 
House, as follows: — Boat down Grass River 4 m. to " The 
Dam;" thence stage 5)^ to 7 m. toHarewood Park Hotel, 
if seasonable notice has been given. (See pp. 1-53, 156.) 



l68 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Childwold Park is easy of access. From New York the 
traveler has a choice of two routes, viz: — New York Cen- 
tral R. R. to Herkimer; thence Adirondack & St. Law- 
rence R. R. to Childwold Station; thence Childwold Park 
stage to hotel, by good road, 5 m. Or, New York Central 
R. R. to Albany; D. & H. R. R. to Mooer's Junction z-/^ 
Plattsburg ; (steamer might be taken if preferred on Lake 
Champlain from Ticonderoga to Plattsburg;) Central Vt. 
R. R. to Moira; Northern Adirondack R. R. to Childwold 
Station ; thence Childwold P. stage to hotel, 7 m. By the 
Herkimer route vestibuled trains and buffet cars run from 
New York to Childwold Station without change. 

Childwold Park may also be reached from Plattsburg via 
Chateaugay R. R. to tipper Saranac Lake ; thence by Ad- 
irondack & St. Lawrence R R. as above. Tourists from 
the West should certainly follow the A. & St. L. line from 
Herkimer. Easy-riding carriages from Childwold Park 
House meet every train at the stations on either line. Tel- 
egraph office at the hotel and mails received daily. (P. O. 
Childwold, N. Y.) 

Leaving "Downey's,' Landing on our way up the river 
(parties seldom travel the rough sled-road to Setting Pole 
Reservoir Dam, 8 m.; usually preferring the water route), 
we immediately encounter Sol's Island Rapids, 5^ m. in 
extent including the "Upper" and "Lower Pitch," (2 falls 
of 8 and 14 ft.) where there are 2 portages of 20 r. (1.) and 
10 r. (1.) respectively. The remainder of the rapids may 
be towed or rowed, according to the ability of the guides 
Then succeeds 2^ m. of comparative Stillwater, including 
Dead and Averill's or Black Rapids (^ or ^ m. above 
Sol's Island Rapids), up which boats are rowed without 
much difficulty. Otherwise we carry (1.), i^ m. 

A grander exhibition is seldom witnessed in the woods 
than that which the tourist finds in Percefieid High Falls, 
(Ind., "Leap of the Foaming Panther") as seen in the dis- 
tance when turning a bend in the river at the head of Av- 
erill's Rapids, I m. below. Over a rugged ledge the Ra- 
quette fiercely sweeps to a granite shelf below, where the 
water is thrown up in finest spray or maddened foam , 
thence it leaps to another shelf, from which it pours a seeth- 



TUPPER LAKE VILLAGE. 169 

ing mass into the agitated depths beneath. The river falls 
in sheer descent 35 ft., and forms the most picturesque bit 
of scenery surveyed on the entire route. Here is a hard 
carry up the face of the rock and over the steep bank, of 15 
r. (1). Then follows }( or j4 m. of Stillwater, succeeded 
by Fish Hawk Rapids, covering a distance of about 50 r., 
through or around most of which boats must be towed, or 
carried, r. Thence there is a Stillwater, extending 2^ or 
3 m. to Setting Pole Rapids — a romantic reach of foaming 
water — where there is a portage of }( m. (l). 

This was the favorite camping-place of the distinguished 
angler, the late lamented George Dawson of the Albany 
Journal^ before the glory of the Raquette above this point 
had departed. Of the Reservoir Dam at Setting Pole 
Rapids, he said : — 

"The high water thus caused is working great mischief in all this 
region. It has produced the overflow of tens of thousands of acres. 
The result will be that the beauty of the Raquette, once one of the most 
lovely streams in America, and its connecting lakes will be marred by 
the destruction of the beautiful evergreens and maples which line their 
banks, and which have rendered them so wonderfully attractive and 
picturesque. But this is not all. The receding waters in midsummer 
must leave this whole region a reeking mass of decaying vegetation, fill- 
ing the air with fever-exciting miasma, and making a sojourn in the 
midst of it exceedingly hazardous. Its effects are already seen in the 
thousands of dead trees which mar the beauty of the river's banks, and 
the coming seasons will demonstrate its pernicious influence upon the 
comfort and health of visitors, and the scattered residents upon its 
borders. Anglers are chiefly aggrieved by this obstruction to the free 
flow of the water, because it has destroyed several favorite trout haunts." 

This prediction has been fulfilled to the letter. 

From Reservoir Dam to Raquette Pond it is 2 m. ; 
through this pond 2 m.; up Raquette River to Big Tupper 
Lake 2 m. Thus the distance from Potsdam to this lake is 
about 58 or 60 m. 

From the bosom of the forest, on the sloping shores of 
the E. side of Raquette Pond, a bustling village has sud- 
denly sprung into existence. This is called Tupper Lake 
— P. O. the same — and it is the terminus of the Northern 
Adirondack R. R. Within i J^ or 2 m. of this point is 
Tupper Lake Junction, where the Adirondack & St. 
Lawrence R. R. intersects the former line. Stages meet 



lyo THE ADIRONDACKS. 

every train at this station and convey travelers to Tupper 
Lake Village, whence steamers are taken for Mt. Morris 
House, Moody's Redside Camp, or Tupper Lake House, 
the three hotels on Tupper Lake ; or stage for The Waw- 
beek, on Upper Saranac Lake, 9 m. distant. Although 
Tupper Lake Village occupies the banks of a sheet once 
very beautiful, formerly bearing the sweet name of "Lough 
Neak," (21^ x ^) the scenery now is greatly impaired by 
the "drowned lands of the Adirondacks," whose dead tim- 
ber presents an unsightly appearance to the eye, A pleas- 
ing view is here obtained of Marcy, Whiteface, Seward and 
other summits of the Adirondack Range. "Capt. Peter's 
Rocks" rise from the water near the foot. It is related that 
Capt. Peter, father of Mitchell Sabattis — a famous sire of a 
famous son — in former times made a practice of secreting 
his game and traps among these granite masses; and here 
he made his famous leap to the shore — good 16 feet. Great 
activity is manifested in the village, and it is destined to 
become a large and important town. Lumbering is the 
principal interest. Several hotels and stores offer every 
needed accommodation. 

There are numerous lakes and ponds besides those al- 
ready named on either side of the river, scattered along be- 
tween Stark's Falls and Tupper Lake, easily accessible 
from the route and perfectly adapted to sporting purposes. 
The Raquette also receives numerous tributaries, which 
afford good fishing during the summer months. 

Mountain Brook, entering from the E. below Sol'-s 
Island Rapids, and Dead Creek on the opposite side about 
5 m. above (3 m. from Gale's), are especially noted for the 
size and quantity of the trout they yield. The stillwaters, 
as well as the neighboring ponds, offer prime deer hunting. 

This river ride is really delightful. The stream, fre- 
quently decked with pond lilies, and interspersed as it is 
with islands, and varied by frequent falls and rapids, pre- 
sents to the admirer of nature a succession of enchanting 
scenes. The graduated unevenness of its mountain scen- 
ery, and the abrupt, ever-changing appearance of its shores, 
together with the varying colors of the forest foliage, afford 



OGDENSBURG. {^See next page?) 171 

the lover of the beautiful, ample compensation for the la- 
bors of his journey.* 

It should be stated that Raquette R. itself no longer 
affords any trout-fishing. Pickerel were put into Big 
Tupper Lake years ago, and they have driven the trout 
from this stream. But its inlets and the adjacent ponds 
furnish ample and superior trouting. Black bass were also 
placed in Tupper L. several years since and begin to man- 
ifest themselves in quantities, and of good size, all along 
this river. Although the "speckled beauties" are banished 
from the Raquette, the game qualities of the bass, and the 
abundance of the pickerel, partially compensate for the 
loss. 

From Potsdam, Concord coaches run daily to South Col- 
ton (Lindsay House), e3>^ m.; fare, $r. Thence stage 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday to Stark, 21)^ m.; fare, 
$1.75; Seavey's, 35 m., fare, $2.75; Childwold, 38 m., $3; 
Gale's, 41 m., $3 25 ; and Childwold Park House, 41^ m., 
fare, $3 35 ; returning on alternate days. 

The establishment of this mail line, with private mail 
boxes all along the route, affords excellent facilities for 
getting letters and papers at any given point. And the 
accommodation of the "unlicensed carrier," enables "camp- 
ers-out" to have their dailies with their deer, and to ex- 
change camp items for home news. {This stage will prob- 
ably be withdrawn.) 

To reach the most important points on the Potsdam route ^ 
tourists generally take the cars on the Northern Adiron- 
dack R. R., or the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Rail- 
way, enabling them to make these excursions in absolute 
comfort. (See Routes Nineteenth and Twentieth, 
from Moira and Malone.) 

* To Hon. A. B. Hepburn of Canton, N. Y., we are greatly indebted for di- 
rect aid rendered and written memoranda used in tlie description of tlie 
Potsdam route. 



172 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Seventeenth : — OgdensburgJ — named from Sam'l Ogden, 
under whose auspices settlement was made here in 1796 — 
is situated on the St. Lawrence on a beautiful plain near 
the mouth of Oswegatchie R. The confluence of these 
waters forms a safe and commodious harbor at the foot of 
sloop navigation. The position of this frontier city, which 
is a port of entry and delivery, cannot be overestimated. 
It is a prosperous place, possessing important commercial 
and manufacturing advantages ; the Oswegatchie furnish- 
ing immense water-power to its various factories. Several 
steamboat companies connect it with the commerce of the 
St. Lawrence and great 1-akes. The Ogdensburg & Lake 
Champlain, and Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg rail- 
roads terminate here, making it a depot of great import- 
ance. The structures of the former are on a magnificent 
scale, while the various streets are adorned with many ele- 
gant residences. Nearly a mile of wharves extend along 
the river, with a grain .elevator of the largest size at 
one extremity. K steam ferry connects these roads with 
the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific railways, at Pres- 
cott, which lies on the opposite side of the river, here i^ 
m. broad. 

Ogdensburg was anciently the site of an Indian village styled Swa- 
gatch, or Soegasti (Ind., Swekat-si, "black water;" the Oswegatchie 
— pronounced, Os-we-gotch ee — having formerly been entitled, Black 
River). As the O-swa-gatch tribe regarded themselves as the "fag-ends" 
{natte) of the Iroquois, this village was called, "the tail of the Five 
Nations." {Dr. Hough.) In 1749 through the efforts of Abbe Francis 
Picquet, the celebrated French Sulpitian Missionary, a Catholic mission 
named La Presentation, was established here. This became an im- 
portant military station, from which the French sent their war parties to 
ravage the feeble back settlements of N. Y. and Penn. The ruins of 
the fortress erected by them, (Fort La Presentation) still remain. And 
Chimney Island (Ind., 0-ra co-nen-ton ; French, Isle Royat) 3 m. down 
the St. Lawrence, also displays the ruins of Fort Levi, constructed by 
the French in 1759. This island has been the repeated scene of unsuc- 
cessful money digging. On the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence 
may be observed the remains of the stone wind-mill, the scene of an 
heroic defence during the Rebellion of 1837, maintained by a small 
band of patriots, (under the leadership of the unfortunate Polander, Van 
Shoultze, who had fought for the freedom of his native land, and wit- 

t Ogdensburg, Massena Springs and Rouse's Point, thougli not strictly 
"gateways" to the Wilderness, are classed as such, for the information of 
Canadian tourists. 



MASSENA SPRINGS. I 73 

nessed her expiring agony at ill-fa' 2d Moscow), against a far superior 
British force. 

The principal hotels of Ogdensburg are the Seymour and 
Windsor Houses. 

Tourists bound for the Adirondacks proceed from here 
by railroad to Potsdam, 31 m.; Brasher Falls, 36 m.; Moira, 
47 m.; Malone, 61 m.; Chateaugay, 73 m ; Plattsburg, 127 
miles. 



Eighteenth: — Massena Springs (Ind., Kan-a-swa-stak-e- 
ras, "where the mud smells bad") are situated on the verge 
of Raquette River, directly above what was formerly termed 
Lay's Fall, and i m. from Massena Village,* located on 
Grass R.f (White's model Hotel ) These waters (con- 
sisting of 5 springs, not essentially different in their proper- 
ties, of which "St. Regis" is the most important) have ac- 
quired a wide reputation for their medicinal qualities, and 
this celebrity is rapidly increasing. The early surveyors 
noticed them in 1799, when a copious volume of clear, cold 
water was thrown up, strongly charged with sulphur; and 
the earth around trodden into a mire-hole by deer and 
moose, which frequented the spot on account of the saline 
qualities of the water. It is said that horses and cattle pre- 
fer this to any other water. The Indians here found an 
abundance of game at all seasons, and vague traditions ex- 
ist, that they used the waters medicinally. {Dr. Jlough.) 
They have been most employed for cutaneous diseases, 
dyspepsia, rheumatism and chronic diarrhoea, for which they 
are regarded as specific. The surroundings of the springs 
are extremely beautiful, and the climate in this locality is very 
healthful. There are other attractions besides the springs. 
To the piscatorial tourist this section is full of interest. 
A finer fishing-center can hardly be found. Here he is 
within striking distance of three rivers which furnish fish in 
great variety and profusion, including bass, pickerel and 
the celebrated masq'allonge. Putting his boat in the love- 

* Named In lienor of Marshal Massena, tlie celebrated French general. 

t Grass and Raquette Rivers, here of about equal volume, run nearly par- 
allel for many miles above and below, and enter the St. Lawi'ence opposite 
Cornwall Island. 



174 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ly Raquette, he can pass to the St. Lawrence (12 m.), 
shooting like an arrow down the exciting but not danger- 
ous rapids that intervene; thence up the St. Lawrence (3 
m.) (or much farther if he desires) ; thence up Grass River 
to the dam (8 m.), which is only i m. below White's Hotel, 
at Massena Village — a short mile from the springs. What a 
delightful trip for a day. The Long Sault Rapids, one of 
the most attractive scenes on the St. Lawrence, 4 m. from 
here, can be run safely with small boats ; and in the eddies 
below is the finest of masq'allonge fishing. The Long 
Rapids on the Raquette, 9 m. below the springs, are the 
special haunts of legions of white fish rarely found else- 
where in the vicinity. Trout also are caught in the neigh- 
borhood. Up Earl Creek a short distance, which empties 
into the river 4 m. above these rapids, in May, 1874, the 
late David J. Mitchell, of Syracuse, captured 118 bass, 2 
pickerel and i pike — averaging over 2 lbs. each — in 3 or 4 
hours' fishing. Similar examples, illustrating the fruitful- 
ness of these streams, might be multiplied to any extent. 

The long-established Harrowgate House still remains 
very popular with the old habitues of this resort. The 
springs are located on the beautifully sloping and shaded 
grounds of the hotel, and are owned by the proprietors of 
this establishment. 

On the opposite side of the street, stands the large and 
elegant structure known as the Hatfield House, where, in 
all its appointments, the tourist will find everything that 
constitutes a first-class hotel. Its grounds and gardens 
elicit the admiration of every visitor. 

From the Springs stages run daily, via Massena Village 
to Dodge's Landing on the St. Lawrence, (4 m.; fare 50 
cts.) where steamers may be taken which pass through the 
Thousand Islands, or down the rapids of this river. The 
railroad from Norwood to Massena Springs, (15 m.) (con- 
necting with the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R. at 
the former point) and thence to Fort Covington, was long 
since completed. This important railway gives the Rome, 
Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R. direct connection with 
the Grand Trunk Line, and forms a most desirable route 
from various western points to Massena Springs, Montreal 
and Quebec. 



MOIRA. NORTHERN ADIRONDACK R. R. 175 



DIVISION II. 

INTO THE ST. REGIS AND CHATEAUGAY WOODS. 

The impression usually entertained, that the St. Regis 
and Chateaugay portion of the Northern Wilderness has 
been so far encroached upon by settlements as to be un- 
worthy of consideration as a resort for sportsmen, is in the 
main incorrect. Indeed, so far is this from being true, 
that even the "happy hunting grounds of the Saranac" are 
not superior for sporting purposes to the once famed 
woods of the "Shatagee."* The usual points of entrance 
to this section are Moira, Malonef and Chateaugay, stations 
on the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R., and Platts- 
burg, the S. terminus of the Plattsburg & Montreal R. R. 
(Now Delaware 6^ Hudson R. R. to Rouse's Point ^ 

Nineteenth : — Moira (Junction House) received its pre- 
tentious name from the English Earl of Moira. This little 
village suddenly became very prominent ov/ing to the con- 
struction of the Northern Adirondack R. R., which starts 
from this point. The present southern terminus of this line 
is Tupper Lake Village, situated on Raquette Pond, 3 m. 
below Big Tupper Lake. This route is one of the most 
comfortable by which the Adirondacks can be visited, as the 
cars convey the traveler well into the heart of that region. 

The distances from Moira to the following stations are 
as follows : Dickinson Center, 8 m; St. Regis Falls, 12 
m.; Santa Clara, 18 ra.; Spring Cove, 23 m.; Brandon, 34 
m.; Blue Pond, 43 m.; Kildare Station, 47 m.; Childwold 
Station, 51 m.; Tupper Lake Junction, 54 m.; Tupper 
Lake Village, 56 m. 

The district thus made accessible, though largely en- 
croached upon by the vast lumbering enterprise of Messrs. 
Hurd & Hotchkiss, (succeeded by John Hurd) who con- 

*5^=Tlie traditional name of all this section^includlng- Meacliam Lake- 
was Chateaugay or "Shatagee." 
t Malone Is the northern terminus of the Adirondack & St. Law. K. R. 



176 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

trol 50,000 to 75,000 acres within its limits, is generally of 
the wildest character and still offers fine sport. 

The attention of the public was first attracted in this 
direction by the history of "Spring Cove Cottage," given in 
an edition of this book in 1875. The "Cottage" (a forest- 
inn located on St. Regis R.) was the residence of the well 
known guide and woodsman, "Den" Smith, who was in- 
duced to locate here by the condition of his wife's health. 
Mrs. S., who had suffered from hereditary lung disease, ag- 
gravated by scrofula in throat and stomach, for upwards of 
sixteen years, was almost miraculously cured by a sojourn 
of two seasons in this locality. And Mr. Smith has recent- 
ly reported to us, (March, 1893) that his wife still enjoys 
good health.* 

Other well authenticated instances of remarkable cures 
wrought by a season of camp life passed in this section, 
might be given would space permit ; and would serve to 
prove the salubrity, and peculiar curative charactistics of 
this particular portion of the Great Wilderness, whose pure 
mountain air, medicated by the healing aroma of the ever- 
greens has generally a magical effect on wasting lungs ; 
steeling the susceptibility of the system to hay-fever and 
catarrhal affections also. 

' Spring Cove Cottage," long since abandoned, is a mat- 
ter of the past ; but at "Den Smith's" pleasant resort near 
Dickinson Center, those who adopt that location for their 
outing will find home-like quarters, and the most whole- 
some fare. The table is supplied with the products of his 
farm as well as the woods, and every attention is paid to 
his guests. Mr. Smith, when desired, accompanies sports- 
men who wish to camp on the sequestered East Branch of 
the St. Regis, 7 m. distant ; affording boating for 12 m., in- 
terrupted by only one carry of half-a-mile. He also fur- 
nishes them with all the requisite supplies on the most rea- 
sonable terms. As a guide, woodsman and intelligent com- 

* Tills should Toe noted lay unlDelievers, who so fiercely condemn Mr. Mur- 
ray's account of the consumptive young man, "whom the Wilderness re- 
ceived almost a corpse, hut which returned him to his home and the world 
as happy and healthy a man as ever bivouacked under its pines." 

Those suffering fi'om phthisis are strongly advised not to delay a visit too 
long ; as permanent benefit is most readily received in the inciineM stage. 



LAKE OZONIA. CRESTWOOD HALL. 177 

panion, the Wilderness has few superiors; and we most con- 
scientiously recommend him and his good wife to the in- 
valid in pursuit of health, or the sportsman seeking the 
pleasures the forest affords. 

Near "Den" Smith's," on the banks of the crystal trout- 
stream, Zina Brook, outlet of Baker P., stands the pictur- 
esque summer retreat of Henry E. Russell, of New York. 

The "North West Bay Road," constructed in the war of 
181 2 through the wilderness from Westport, on Lake 
Champlain, to Sackett's Harbor, on Lake Ontario, (Ind., 
O-non-ta-ri-io, "handsome lake,") passes 4 m. S. of Dickin- 
son Center, and through Santa Clara. It is difficult to 
trace but little of its course. 

Six miles S. W. of St. Regis Falls (Waverly House) is 
Lake Ozonia, formerly known as Trout Lake (3 x ^), 
charmingly set in the midst of forest-grown heights, gently 
rising from the pebbly shores. A sand-rimmed beach, 
many moss-clad rocks, several leaf-locked bays, with their 
secluded nooks, and three small islands lying like emeralds 
on its bosom, add so many charms to the loveliness of the 
scene. Unlike many of the Adirondack lakes, civilization 
has not yet robbed it of its pristine beauty, as the environ- 
ing wilderness remains unscarred by the woodman's axe.* 
Numerous springs, mountain-born, feed its crystal waters 
which are stocked with bass and salmon-trout. Superior 
hunting and fishing-grounds in the vicinity offer fine oppor- 
tunities to sportsmen. Choice bathing-places, with sandy 
bottoms, are found in the lake in various directions. The 
outlet flows into East Brook or Branch, a tributary of St. 
Regis River. 

Crestwood Hall is delightfully situated on the western 
shore, and commands a fascinating view of distant moun- 
tain-peaks. This hotel consists of a central structure — 
rustic and unique — connected with a number of cosey little 
cottages, offering the privacy and comforts of home-life. 
The sanitary arrangements are modern and perfect. This 
establishment is admirably furnished and managed ; and 

» 

* The suiTounding forest is virgin and unbroken, excepting a small clear- 
ing at tlie E. end of tlie lake— where an ancient hunter has his rude abode— 
and a little piece of ground on one of the shores, once burned over, but now 
covered with thrifty aspen-trees, 30 ft. high. 



1 78 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

with its accessibility and the neighboring attractions, may 
well be considered a lovely and desirable resort. 

It is most conveniently reached from St. Regis Falls (6 
m.), by stage; fare 75 cts. or $r.oo. It can also be visited 
by private conveyance from Brasher Falls on the Ogdens- 
burg & Lake Champlain R. R, via Hopkinton (7 m.); 
whence it is 8 m. to Lake Ozonia. (P. O., St. Regis Falls, 
N. Y.) 

West of Lake Ozonia 1 j5^ m, is Mud P., where the hunter 
frequently secures a deer. 

About ^ m. E. of the foot of Lake Ozonia lies East P. 

East Branch P. or Dexter L. is 3 m. E. of Lake Ozonia, 
whence it is i m. S. E. to Goose P. From the latter it is 7 
m. S. by road to Blue Mt. House, near St. Regis River. 

Four miles S. W. of Spring Cove, at the base of Azure 
Mt. (formerly known as Blue Mt.*) and near West Mt. is 
located the Blue Mt. House, (P. O., Santa Clara, N. Y.) 
which is a quiet summer retreat for visitors to this section, 
though it is as yet but little known to the sporting frater- 
nity. It is highly recommended for its ample size, good 
beds and table and general accommodations. A convey- 
ance runs daily to connect with the cars at Spring Cove ; 
fare, 75 cts. From this pleasantly situated hotel a delight- 
ful prospect is enjoyed of a broad expanse of forest extend- 
ing upwards of 50 m.; the grand peak of Essex Co., White- 
face ; De Bar Mt. near Meacham L., and numerous other 
lofty pinnacles in the N. E. and S E. As a sporting cen- 
ter this house has few equals, and it is destined to become 
a popular resort. There are a number of picturesque 
ponds in the neighborhood of easy access, where excellent 
fishing is found. 

Duck (^ x Y-i) and Spring P's, lying ^ m. apart, about 
3 m. N. E , are reached by road. 

To Goose P. it is 7 m. N., and to East Branch P. or Dexter 
L. (i X ^) 8 m. by road; the latter being i m. N. W. of 
the former, and 3 m. W. of Santa Clara. With the en- 
vironing lands, it is the private property of O. P. Dexter, 

* Fi'om Blue Mt. House to tlie summit of Mt. Azure, it is \yi m. l)y good 
path. 



MIDDLE ST. REGIS RIVER. 



179 



of New York, who has erected an elegant summer residence 
on its pleasant shores. 

West of East Branch P. about 3 m. is Lake Ozonia. (See 
P- 177 ) 

McCavenaugh P. (i>^ x ^), a fine deer resort, is 3 m. 
W. of Blue Mt. House. The route passes Mud P. 214 m 
W. 

Train P. is 3 m. S. W. of McCavenaugh P. Beyond 
that, ^ m. W. is Weller P.; and ^ m. W. of S. of the latter 
is Arquet L. These are all reached by carries. 

Ben's or Den's P., overshadowed by Rice Mt., is 3 m. S. 
E. of the hotel. 

Wolf P. 81^ m. S. W. of the hotel (Twin Ponds about 
midway), is reached by a rough sled-road. At this wild 
and rarely visited place, deer, bears and panthers were 
formerly found. An abundance of trout may be taken from 
the upper branches of Parishville River, a tributary of the 
West St. Regis, in close proximity to this little lake. The 
country in every direction for many miles is an unbroken 
wilderness in which lie nameless ponds and streams un- 
known even to the general guide. (In Vilas Preserve.) 

Long P., another wildly secluded sheet, lies about 3 m. 
S. of E. of Wolf P. and 2^ m. W. of St. Regis River. 

Marsh and Mud P's lie N. of Wolf Pond. 

To the Middle St. Regis River, which is the St. Regis 
proper, it is ^ m. E. from the hotel. To the lovers of 
trout and deer we cheerfully commend this stream. For 
excellent fishing it is unsurpassed, as its bed is filled with 
deep spring-holes, and the angler has 30 m. or more of the 
stream in which to cast a line — rapids and Stillwater alter- 
nating. The boat landing is at the foot of the "Three- Mile 
Rapids," and here the fisher seldom fails to experience the 
satisfaction resulting from perfect success. Passing down 
the "Four-Mile Stillwater," (not very good boating) we 
encounter rapids again. Around these, boats must be car- 
ried ^ m. We have now reached the Humphrey Nine- 
Mile Level, which affords good navigation for that distance, 
passing many springs and brooks on the way, where speckled 
trout are frequently found. Santa Clara (Santa Clara House) 



t8o the adirondacks. 

a pleasant little hamlet with delightful surroundings, is 
located at the foot of this Stillwater, and on the N. A. R. R. 

These river routes should ordinarily be selected by those 
in search of rest or recreation, and who desire to leisurely 
"paddle their own canoes," as but little exertion is required 
in following them. 

But the boast of this locality is the "Sixteen-Mile Level" 
on the St. Regis, beginning 3 m. above (S. E.) the Blue Mt. 
House. This grand secluded reach of boatable Stillwater 
furnishes some of the best trout fishing and deer hunting 
the entire region offers. Three miles up the Level, Quebec 
Brook, with 2 mouths, the outlet of Madawaska and Quebec 
P's, enters the river, E. The former sheet, famous for deer 
and large trout, 5 m. up the stream, may be reached by 
boat, if we carry half the way. It is said that many years since 
an old Indian bearing the name of "Quebec" followed the 
outlet of Quebec to the St. Regis and there planted on the 
banks an ash tree, still standing and of large size, which 
originated the name.* One m. S. W. of Madawaska P., is 
Otter Pond, a great duck resort. 

From Madawaska P. we carry 2 m. S. E. to Quebec P. 
(the stream connecting them being unnavigable), and thence 
I m. S. to Folingsby Jr. P., which is only 3 m. by road from 
Paul Smith's, S. E. 

Wolf P. {No. 2) lies about 2 m. N. E. of Madawaska P. 
In the vicinity rise Madawaska and Rice Mts. 

Four and one-half m, farther up the Level (from Quebec 
Brook), the outlet of Twin P's, but a short distance W. 
discharges into the river. This is called "Trout Hole." 

About midway of the Level (8 m.) the noted "Indian" or 
"Peter's Rock" is reached. Near this are several singular 
mounds, believed to be burial places of the Indians. This 
is a popular camping place — the stronghold of both deer 
and trout. 

Three miles above this point, ("Buck Mt. Camp") a car- 
ry leaves the river (r.) for Long P. (2 x i>^) 21^ m. W. 
This important sheet, encompassed by evergreens, lying 

* "C^ueDec" is said to Have laeen "Capt." Peter SaDattis, father of the fa- 
mous Mltcliell sabattis. 



THE SIXTEEN-MILE LEVEL. l8l 

near Buck Mt., is a source of the West Branch of St. Regis 
River. A fine camping site is found on the W. shore in a 
handsome balsam grove, with a cold spring near. Lying 
in this vicinity is Martin Pond. 

Three miles N. of W. of Long P. is Wolf P. (See p. 
179) 

South of Long P., perhaps i^ m,, is Whitney P.; named 
after the efficient guide, woodsman and surveyor, Cyrus 
Whitney. South W. of that are Elbow, Little Rock, Chuck, 
Potter and McDonald Ponds. (See p. 160.) 

From Whitney's P. we carry 2 m. S. of E. to Cranberry 
P., from which it is 2 m. N. to Long P. and 2 m. E. to Bay 
P. by carry. 

The solitudes embracing Long, Whitney, McDonald and 
Cranberry P's are seldom disturbed, and hence the sporting 
is of unqualified excellence. ( The most of this section be- 
longs to the Vilas Preserve.) 

Twelve and one-half miles up the Sixteen Mile Level, we 
pass through an expansion of the stream styled River P.; 
and I m. above this the carry starts (r.) for Bay P., 21^ m. 
S. W.; passing Bear P. (i^ m.) en route. From here by 
road it is IT m. S. of E. to Paul Smith's; and from Brandon 
Station, on N. A. R. R., located near the river N. E. of 
Bear or Dodge P., it is 7 m. by stage to the same resort. 

In the vicinity, W. and S. W. of Brandon, are Mud and 
Black Ponds. 

Resuming the journey, we immediately pass the outlet of 
Folingsby Jr. P., and soon, at the end of the Sixteen Mile 
Level, make a portage of ^ m ; then pass through 2 m. of 
Stillwater ; carry again § m.; thence row 2 m. to Keese's 
Mills, where we carry i^ m. From here we have uninter- 
rupted navigation 3 m. to Paul Smith's. Total distance 
from Blue Mt. House, 27I m. 

To sum up all, this locality may be regarded as peculiar- 
ly adapted to the wants of invalids in pursuit of health ; 
and lovers of the chase or of piscatorial sports, will usually 
be satisfied with their experiences here. But, to secure 
these privileges, application for "Permits" must be made to 



l82 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the "Santa Clara Lumber Co.," which owns the larger 
portion of this district. Small compensation required. 

St. Regis River (Ind , Ak-wis-sas-ne, "where the partridge 
drums") with its three branches has its source in a cluster 
of lakes and ponds lying in Franklin Co., in the immediate 
vicinity of the headwaters of the Saranac system. It flows 
in a course nearly parallel with that of Oswegatchie, Grass 
and Raquette Rivers. Of all these Wilderness streams, this 
is the very least known and the most rarely followed. 
Through a densely wooded region of wildness and solitude, 
where the foot of man has seldom pressed, it pursues its 
serpentine course until emerging at last from the forest's 
solemn shades, it enters the smiling meadows of the "North- 
ern Tier," and passes onward toward its final resting place, 
through the noble St. Lawrence. 

Brandon, on the Northern Adirondack R. R. (Bay Pond 
House), is within 7 m. of the famous hostelry at St. Regis 
Lake, (Paul Smith's) to which coaches run on arrival of 
the principal trains, there connecting with stage and boat 
lines running to all the principal resorts in the Wilderness. 

At Brandon, stage is also taken for Meacham Lake 
House, 12 m. {See Route Twentieth fro7n Ma lone ^ and p. 186.) 

From Blue Pond Station, Saranac Inn, located at the 
htad of Upper Saranac Lake, 7^ m., can be reached by 
private conveyance. Stage has been discontinued. It 
would be preferable, however, to change cars at Tupper 
Lake Junction, as named herewith. // would be still more 
desirable, to visit that fanned resort from M alone, via thk 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. (See p. 185.) 

From Kildare Station, a carriage-road leads 6 m. to the 
Kildare Club House, at Jordan Lake. (See Page 160.) 

At Childwold Station, stages await every through 
train, and convey passengers to Gale's Pond View House, 
6 m.; and Childwold Park House, 7 n). (See Page 163.) 

At Tupper Lake Junction, tourists bound for Saranac 
Inn, should leave this line and take cars on the Adiron- 
dack & St. Lawrence R. R. for that station, 15 m. dis- 
tant. (See Page 169.) 



VILAS PRESERVE. 183 

From Tupper Lake Village, travelers are conveyed by 
stage 9 m. to The Wawbeek, near foot of Upper Saranac 
Lake; also, by steamer through Raquette Pond, i m.; 
Raquette River, 2 m ; and Big Tupper Lake, 6% m. to 
Tupper Lake House, and intermediate points. (See 
PAGE 169.) 

VILAS PRESERVE. 

Few persons are aware of the large number of tracts, from 
a few hundred to a hundred thousand acres in extent in this 
region that are being withdrawn for the purposes of private 
"Game and Fish Preserves", chiefly for the use of clubs 
aid associations. Among the larger of these, some 50,000 
acres, situated in St. Lawrence and Franklin Counties in 
the St. Regis Valley, is the "Vilas Preserve." It was the 
second in order in this vicinity, the Kildare Club adjoining, 
having preserved some 4,000 acres a few years before. For 
years, many of its lakes and streams have justly been noted 
for the excellent hunting and fishing they afforded. Until 
1880 none except the veteran hunter pentrated into its 
wilds. Then the Northern Adirondack Railway opened 
the valley to Brandon or Paul Smith's Station, some four 
miles east of this tract ; but the almost entire absence of 
wagon-roads still made it a very difficult place to reach. In 
1890 the railroad was continued to Tupper Lake, near the 
center of the Adirondacks. The result of the continuation 
was to carry on beyond, the tide of sporting travel and also 
to open up four to five hundred thousand acres of wilder- 
ness that was before well nigh inaccessible. Up to 1890 
there had been no turnpike up this valley ; and at this time, 
before the sporting public could become acquainted with 
the country, it was surveyed, posted and established as a 
private "Game and Fish Preserve." It has since been well 
protected and a few parties under "Permits" have been 
allowed to spend a short period, hunting and fishing during 
the season. The general character of the country is level, 
cut up by numerous hard wood ridges, which in the St. 
Lawrence Co. portion, are more pronounced and sharp. 



184 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In the northeast corner of township 16 are Buck Moun- 
tain and a few ridges. Along the north line of south half 
of township 12 (Riversdale) is a succession of small moun- 
tains ("County," '*Weller,""Spawningbed," "Sheldon," and 
"Hamilton"). Few tracts in the Adirondacks are so well 
watered by brooks and rivers. Two branches of the St. Regis 
run diagonally through it, being from two to five miles 
apart in their course and furnishing 56 miles of navigable 
water. The lakes are small, but are ideal fishing and 
feeding-grounds and famous for deer. 

Until this tract is absorbed by some Game and Fish 
Club, "Permits" may be obtained for a consideration, to 
hunt and fish upon it. 

Information, maps, etc., will be furnished on application 
by E. A, Carpenter, 7 Linnean St., Cambridge, Mass. 



Tiventieth: — M alone,* (Ind , Te-kan-o-ta-ron-we, "a vil- 
lage crossing a river") the shire-town of Franklin Co., is 
the most important station on the Ogdensburg & Lake 
Champlain R. R., {Central Vernwtit R. R.) and the north- 
ern terminus of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Rail- 
way, It is finely situated on both sides of Salmon River, 
(furnishing here great water power) 61 m. from Ogdensburg 
and 57 from Rouse's Point. It is a very flourishing village, 
in the center of a rich agricultural country. Its principal 
streets are broad and pleasant, being ornamented by many 
handsome public and private structures. The scenery 
surrounding the place is very interesting. About 4 m. W. 
are several veins of magnetic iron ore, and i m. S. is an 
extensive quarry of Potsdam limestone. 

* First named •'IJaiTison," from Rich. Harrison, original proprietor of the 
suiTounding lands ; and afterwards M alone from a family related to him. 

Note.— To Chiistie E. Fay, the proficient artist of Mai one, we are under 
great ohligations for his valuahle assistance, and also for written materials 
descriptive of this district, furnished hy him. 



THROUGH THE GREAT FOREST FROM MALONE. 185 

Distances from Ma lone to Herkimer, and intermediate 
points^ via Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railroad. 

miles. 

To Mountain View, ("State Dam") - 13 

" Loon Lake, - - - - 25 

" Lake Kushaqua, (Round Pond) - 29 

" Rainbow Lake, - - - 34 

" Paul Smith's Station, - - 36)^ 

" Lake Clear, (Junction Saranac Branch) 415^ 

" Saranac Inn Station, - - 44^ 

" Tupper Lake Junction, - - 59^ 

" Childwold Station, - - - 66 

" Horseshoe Pond, - - 73^ 

" Bog Lake, - - - - 82^ 

" Ne-ha-sa-ne, (Private Station) - 86 

" Little Rapids, (Private Station) - 93 

" Beaver River, - - - 95^ 

" Big Moose, - - . . 104 

" Fulton Chain, ("Arnolds.") - 115 

" McKeever, (Moose River) - - 123^^ 

" Otter Lake, - - - 125^ 

" White Lake, - - - - 130^ 

" Forestport, - - - 137^ 

" Honnedaga, - - - - 1415^ 

" Remsen, - - - - 145 >^ 

" Prospect, - - - - 147^ 

" Trenton Falls, - - - 149^ 

" Herkimer, - - - - i73 

From Malone, a few hours' ride by road, or a few min- 
utes by rail, will carry the traveler to some of the finest 
sections for sport as well as scenery, existing anywhere 
within the boundaries of the Adirondacks. In this direc- 
tion the woods and waters have not been so thoroughly 
cleared of fish and game as in the wilderness farther south. 

Notwithstanding the construction of the A, & St. L. R. 
R., parties occasionally visit Paul Smith's from this point, 
by special conveyance, and generally express themselves 
highly pleased with the route. The road is in excellent 
condition now, as a large amount of money and work have 



1^86 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

been expended upon it within the last few years. The dis- 
tance from Malone to Meacham Lake is 25 m.; and 12 m. 
farther S. are the St. Regis waters and the "St. James" of 
the Wilderness, Paul Smith's. And what a delightful route 
it is— through a most picturesque region, just uneven 
enough for variety ; the road thickly shaded on either side 
by magnificent forest trees. At intervals we pass beautiful 
woodland lakes and ponds, into whose clear waters we are 
tempted to drop a hook, as we observe the mirrored sur- 
face broken into a thousand ripples, by the "speckled 
beauties" darting after flies. 

Meacham Lake, one of the most important of the St. 
Regis waters, is about 3 m. in length, and varies from ij4 
to 2 m. in width. It is bounded on nearly all sides by 
charming mountain ranges, and its three handsome sand 
beaches (which altogether form half of its circumference), 
but increase its manifold attractions. In the words of 
"Haviland," "we know of no finer landscape or scenery, 
than that presented by Meacham Lake and its surroundings 
as viewed from Carpenter Hill. When we first beheld this 
sheet rippling softly in the sunlight, it lay before us, one 
burnished sheet of liquid gold. A cloudless blue sky hung 
over mountain and forest, the clear atmosphere bringing 
into bold relief all the mountain glimpses for which this 
lovely lake is so justly celebrated. Debar Mountain (5^ 
m. distant and ascended from this lake), a savage looking 
peak, standing sentinel on the left, leads the scene ; St. 
Regis Mountain, due S., shows its blue summit in the air, 
while numberless other less noted pinnacles, including Rice 
and Madawaska Mts., feathered o'er from base to crown 
with 'wildering forests, continually divert and charm the 
vision." Its shores are clothed in primeval splendor and 
no signs of civilization or cultivation are manifest in any 
direction, except at its northern extremity, where the 
Meacham Lake House, located on one of those golden 
strands, and embowered by majestic pines, solicits the trav- 
eler's attention. No other habitation stands within 5 m. of 
its waters. 

It derived its name from Thomas Meacham, a noted Nimrod, who 
spent many years in hunting in this section, and who died in 1849, aged 
79. He kept an account of his successes, which resulted as follows : 



MEACHAM LAKE HOUSE. 1 87 

wolves, 214; panthers, 77; bears, 210; deer, 2,550. Mr. Meacham 
would relate many amusing anecdotes. His traps were always out, and 
one day in examining them he found two wolves and a bear, and shot 
another on the way, making, as bounties then were, a profit of $185. 
{Hough.) 

The well-known and popular hostelry, the Meacham 
Lake House, Alon. R. Fuller, proprietor, (P. O., Duane, N. 
Y.,) most suitably provides for the wants of tourists, and 
trout and venison in the proper season, constantly abound 
on its tables as well as in the waters and forests in the 
vicinity. It is a delightful summer resort, and its gentle- 
manly host is ever ready to cater to the various tastes of 
his many visitors. Good boats, reliable guides, and every- 
thing needed for a sporting life, furnished on short notice. 
As he owns the land surrounding the lake, he has full con- 
trol of its sporting privileges. So very desirable is this 
retreat that intending guests often find it necessary to 
apply for rooms, weeks in advance of their occupancy. 

The following resorts are conveniently reached by boats 
or good portages : Clear Pond, Y^ m. N. of Fuller" , has 
no apparent inlet or outlet ; its water is as clear as crystal 
and is alive with white-fish. It also yields large speckled 
trout, some of which (real salmo fontinalis) have reached 
the extraordinary weight of 5 lbs. Buck Pond, once 
famous for small trout, 60 rods farther N., is made up of 
spring-holes and its outlet feeds Deer River. N. E. of 
Meacham House, about 3 m. is Winnebago Pond. 

The outlet and chief inlet of Meacham Lake are b'oth 
at its southern extremity and but a short distance apart. 
Down the former, (the E. branch of St. Regis River,) at 
the old bridge, and not far from the lake, where the road 
from Malone (via Fuller's) to Paul Smith's crosses the 
stream, will be found most excellent trouting in the spring 
and fall. Below this point the stream is very rapid as far 
as the "Lower Landing" (about i>^ m.); but thence down, 
there are 6 or 7 m. of still-water fishing ; and this is the 
place generally visited for a good day's sport with the fly. 
At cne point (about 5 m. from the lake), where two small 
cold brooks contribute their quota to this Stillwater, the 
angler usually meets with unqualified success. The E. 
Branch unites with the St. Regis proper, some distance 



l88 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

below, near the "Nine Mile Level." If we except one or 
two small clearings, the entire course of this stream is 
buried in a dense wilderness. Deer, trout and ruffed grouse 
are abundant along its line. (See p. 176). 

About 5 m. N. of Meacham Lake the road crosses Deer 
River (Ind , Oie-ka-rout-fie, "Trout River," a tributary of 
the St. Regis, which widens as it flows. Here also is fine 
fishing and hunting. 

The principal inlet of Meacham Lake is the outlet of 
Osgood Pond. This stream flows in a circuitous course 
through a hilly section of the country. One can pass with 
a boat, up the inlet from the lake, to a point within i m. of 
the house of A. C. McCoUum, that most notable guide. 
The boat landing here is familiarly known as "Hog's Back," 
— not a very euphonious name, but a most romantic spot. 
This portion of the stream (4 m.) passes through a very 
wild and flat section, with little upland to vary the scene ; 
marshy patches and sloughs occasionally appearing on 
either side. These openings and swampy fields are fine 
feeding places for deer ; and frequent opportunity will be 
found to "draw a bead" upon one or more of them, by 
paddling up the inlet. 

Near McCollum's place there is a scattering settlement 
of 12 or 15 families, generally called "Burnt Ground." 
These people make pretensions to farming, but obtain most 
of their livelihood from trapping and hunting. Through 
this place, which is 6 or 7 m. S. of Meacham House, the 
road from Malone to Paul Smith's passes, and with this 
exception, the route after reaching Deer R. lies through an 
unbroken wilderness. There are many pretty lakelets in 
the vicinity of McCollum's, notably, Baker, Rice, Mud, 
Spring, Clear, Chain and McCollum's Ponds, situated in 
the midst of delightful scenery, and all accessible by easy 
portages. But few of the Adirondack resorts afford better 
sport to the hunter and fisherman than these waters. 

x\ trail extends N. W. 6 m. to Spring Cove, on St. Regis 
R. Years ago Mr. J. H. Titus, who built the Meacham 
House, of which he was proprietor several years, cleared 
out this inlet with a view to opening water communication 
with St. Regis Lake. He succeeded in a measure, and for 



LAKE DUANE. LAKE TITUS. 189 

a considerable period made a practice of running his boats 
almost to the h.nding of St. Regis Hotel. But the water 
route now taken from Fuller's to Paul Smith's, is as follows: 

MILES. 

Meacham Lake, . . . . .3 



In4et to Hog's Back, 

Portage to McCoUum's, 

Portage, r., W., 

Chain Lake, 

Portage, S. W., 

FolinVby, Jr., Pond (2 x ^), 



Folingsby, Jr., Pond Outlet, (crooked and shallow), \% 
Middle St. Regis River (or road 3 m), . . 5 

Portage around dam at Keese's Mill, . % 

St. Regis River, . . . . .3 



3^ 

I 



Total, . . . 22 

Tourists generally prefer the land route, as it is some 
lo m. shorter and less tedious; but those intent upon sport 
and adventure follow the water course, as they always find 
plenty of fish and game on the way. 

There are many other beautiful lakes and ponds buried 
in the deep recesses of the woods, conveniently visited 
from Malone over good roads. The most important of 
these are the following : 

Lake Titus (2^ x ^ ; formerly known as Branch Pond) 
an affluent of Salmon R., lies 8 m. S. W. Maple Hill, Mounts 
Pisgah -'nd Immortelle, and the thickly wooded forest sur- 
rounding, render the scenery wild and striking. This lake 
is fast becoming a select resort, and a number of neat cot- 
tages have been erected within a few years. 

Salmon River, 3 m. E ; Deer River, 5 m. W.; and Bear 
P. I m. W., are reached by good roads or paths. Also 
Lake Duane, 2 m. by path or 3 m. by road S. W,; whence 
the interesting group of lakelets, described on another page, 
is visited. (See Lake Duane). 

From Malone, a drive of 13 m., via. Lake Titus, on one 
of the two routes to Meacham Lake, brings us to Lake 
Duane (i x i^^) formerly styled Long Pond, lying nearly 



ipo 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



2,000 ft. above the level of the sea. Among the many en- 
chanting lakes of the Adirondacks, few excel this sheet m 
the variety of its charms. Its quiet waters, winding like a 
river between high wooded banks, are shielded from furi- 
ous winds by the surrounding peaks— Humbug Mt. rising 
on the E. side and Mt. Francesca from the W. shore. 
Rowing is at all times perfectly safe ; while a succession of 
new and chirming scenes constantly surprises and delights 
us. Here the lake is but a narrow stream ; there a broad 
expanse. Now we row under the green bank of a peninsula, 
whose overhanging shrubs and ferns are mirrored in the 
still waters beneath. Again we gather white and yellow 
lilies in some sheltered bay where the water is dark with 
the shadows of the murmuring pines and hemlocks of this 
**forest primeval," whose emerald robes have never been 
marred by fire or the axe. We rest upon our oars and the 
solitude is only broken by the flight of birds through the 
branches, or the stirring of wild creatures of the woods, 
which makes the stillness even more impressive. But in a 
moment we have turned the boat and passed the point. 
The sunlight pours down upon a broad sheet of water, clear 
and spnrkling as a sea of glass ; and the great hotel and 
the distant mountains are again in sight. 

At the head of this sheet, on a gentle eminence drained 
by Lake Duane on the S. and Lake Frances and the Twin 
Lakes on the N. stands Hotel Ayers. It is a 3 story 
structure, with broad verandas on each story extending 
around three sides of the house. The lower floor, finished 
in natural hard wood of the region, is occupied by the parlor, 
dining-room, halls and offices. The apartments on the 
floor above are very desirable— most of them affording de- 
lightful views of lake, mountains and forest in various 
directions. The beds and furnishings are of superior 
quality. ... 

An abundance of pure water from a mountain-spring is 
carried through the house in large pipes, supplying the 
table, baths and closets with constantly running water. 
Great attention has been paid to sanitary plumbing. The 
soil about the premises is sandy and there are no marshy 
grounds in the vicinity. The house has a capacity for 100 
guests, is heated by steam and is kept open the entire year. 



HOTEL AYERS. DEER RIVER. 



91 



Order and neatness characterize the place, and in the 
season the table, always excellent, is generously supplied 
with trout and venison. Mr, Ayers formerly kept the 
Duane House, and in his experience of a score of years, he 
has gained a high reputation as a landlord. The resort he 
has established ranks with the very best in the Adiron- 
dacks. 

Boats for all purposes; also single and double carriages 
are provided at moderate rates, and here guides can always 
be engaged. (P. O. Duane, N. Y.) In the neighborhood 
are many pleasant walks and drives. Following a path a 
dozen rods, we reach Lake Frances (^3 x i^ ; formerly 
called Green or Gourd P.); richly wooded and quite at- 
tractive, with subterraneous outlet. Forty rods beyond 
this by path {j4 rn. from the hotel), is pretty Spring P. 
(yi ^ }i) whose bottom is alive with boiling spiHngs. From 
here we may enjoy 4 miles of boating down its outlet, 
through Twin Lakes (linked beauties only 4 rods apart) 
and Little Salmon R., with fine fishing all the way. 

Horseshoe P. (i x )^) is 2 m. S.; and Eagle P. (^ x Yz) 
2i^ m. S. E. of the hotel. Boats can pass down the outlet 
of the former (S.) a short distance to Deer R., which is 
navigable for 5 m. This stream (3 m. from the hotel) 
offers good trouting even during the poorest part of the 
season. 

Speckled trout of unusual size and quality abound in 
Lake Duane ; and as it is stocked with fry from the State 
Hatchery, the fishing is likely to improve from year to 
year. 

This section is also a remarkable resort for deer. 



DRIVES FROM HOTEL AVERS MILES 

Duane, 

Lake Meacham, .... 

Loon Lake, .... 

Deer River, ..... 

Debar Pond, .... 

Lake Titus, (by path 2 m.) 

Chasm Falls, .... 

State Dam and Indian Lake, . 

Malone, ..... 



12 1^ 

18 

3 
7 
3 
7 
1 1 

13 



192 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

It is the intention of the proprietors to run a stage to 
and from Malone, tri-weekly through July and August. 
Fare $1.50 or $2.00. In other months tourists should 
apply to Roby & Hardy, livery keepers at Malone, for 
conveyances to Lake Duane, or write to W. J. Ayers & Son, 
Duane, N. Y. 

Round Pond (called Indian Lake by Hammond), is 12 
m. S. E. of Malone, and is accessible by a road diverging 
from the main road at Titusville. This sheet of water 
(3 X 2), as its name indicates, is nearly circular, and is 
noted for its beauty. Not the least cultivation exists on 
its borders, and no less wild are the surroundings than 
when the first hardy trapper penetrated to its shores. Like 
most of these Wilderness waters, it is the home of the 
different varieties of trout; they especially abound near 
the mouth of a cold stream entering a little bay at its 
southern extremity. 

The outlet of Round Pond flows into Salmon R., i m. 
S. W.; and V2 m. below the junction of the two streams, the 
State has constructed a substantial dam, which has a tend- 
ency to force the water of the river back into the pond, 
thus making it a grand reservoir. Salmon R. (Ind , Ke7it- 
se-a-ko-wa-ne, ''big fish river") is to this county what the 
Raquette is to St. Lawrence County — the lumberman's 
highway. Hence in the spring time, when the river is too 
low for running logs, the gates of this dam are hoisted, and 
the great body of water, which has been held back from 
its natural course, now swells the stream, and the logs are 
speedily forced by the increasing flood down to Malone 
and Titusville, where the extensive mills belonging to A. B. 
Parmelee &. Son receive them. This dam, being only 13 m. 
from Malone, by wagon road or railway, is a favorite 
resort for the towns-people, who often visit it and return 
on the same day with a generous string of speckled game. 
In fact, above the dam, below the dam, and anywhere in 
the crystalline waters of Salmon R., one can catch the 
finest kind of trout. The flooding of the banks of the 
river, caused by the dam, has injured the bordering scenery 
somewhat ; but as a fishing centre, "State Dam" is unsur- 
passed ; indeed "the fame of this locality for the sport it 
affords is not excelled by any other in the Adirondacks. 



STATE DAM." MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE. 193 

A Stretch of river navigable by boats extends for miles 
both above and below the hotel, and it is generally con- 
ceded that the angler here finds good reward for his labor 
when from many other waters the creels come in empty. 
There isn't a day in the season but that faithful work will 
give a fair catch, while under favorable conditions the 
scores made by fishermen are such as visitors of a genera- 
tion ago used to make. There are twelve other bodies of 
water abounding in trout within a radius of seven miles, so 
that change of scene is open to the sportsman at his liking. 
The hunting is equally excellent, and no resort in this 
section registers more deer killed in the season." 

The Mountain View House (formerly "State Dam 
House") has been trebled in capacity, now providing for 
nearly loo guests. The following description of the pres- 
ent condition of that resort, reached us just as this book 
was going to press : 

The Mountain View House is not a new candidate for 
the public favor, except in the one sense that the old build- 
ing in which the resort's reputation was won has been en- 
tirely replaced by a new one, larger, modern, delightfully 
arranged and comfortable in every way. The new house is 
three stories in height, contains fifty-two sleeping rooms, 
bath room with hot and cold water, and large connecting 
sitting-rooms on the first floor with fire-places at each end. 
Every room in the house is heated by hot water, with in- 
dependent connections, so that each guest may determine 
the temperature of his own apartment. Every article of 
furniture in the house is new, and special effort has been 
made to have the beds the best. Wide two-story verandas 
extend around three sides of the house, giving magnificent 
views and affording opportunity for lounging or promenad- 
ing. From one point the guest faces an amphitheater of 
mountains, comprising sixteen distinct peaks and consti- 
tuting one of the grandest views in the entire Wilderness. 
The sanitary arrangements are perfect. Experienced and 
trustworthy guides will be furnished at moderate rates, and 
supplies can be had from the house by parties going into 
camp. 



194 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

HOW TO REACH MOUNTAIN VIEW. 

The Mountain View House is a short three minutes' 
walk from the station, Mountain View, on the Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R. Visitors from New York, Albany 
or the West should take New York Central R. R. via Her- 
kimer. Through sleeping cars, between New York and 
Montreal, stop at Mountain View daily. Visitors from 
New England points will find it most convenient to come 
to Malone via Central Vermont R. R. and thence via A. & 
St. L. R'y. Telephone in the house and telegraph at the 
station, only 40 rods distant. Entertainment of winter 
boarders will be a specialty. (P. O. address. Mountain 
View, N. Y.) 

The following forest-embosomed waters, sources of Sal- 
mon R., are accessible from this spot : — Round Pond, N. E. 
with which there is communication both by road (^ m.) 
and its outlet (r m.) 

Charley Pond, 2 m. S. E., is a pretty lakelet, noted for 
its beautiful environment and its fine quality of trout. 
The fish in this pond are quite large, and differ much in 
appearance from the trout taken from other waters. They 
are known as the "Silver Skins," having a bright silvery 
surface. When cooked, the meat is red and very firm. 
The distance from State Dam by water, to Charley Pond, 
including a carry of 100 r. is about 4 m. 

Deer Fly Pond is i m. S. E. of State Dam ; Wolf Pond is 
6 m. S. E. 

Plumadore P. (2 x 2), has usually been visited by diverg- 
ing 4 m.N. E. from the Ausable Forks route, at the "Ross 
Place," situated on the Hatch Stream, (famous for trout- 
ing) 20 m. from Malone ; but it is now more conveniently 
reached via the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. This 
charming body of water, is nearly circular and generally 
teems with trout. 

From here a carry leads to Wolf P., 2 m. E., from which 
it is 3 m. S. W. to Elbow Pond. 

The Chateaugay R. R. and the Adirondack & St. Law- 
rence Railway, pass near Wolf and Plumadore Ponds. 



RAGGED LAKE CLUB. 195 

Owl's Head P. lies in the shadow of Mt. Owl's Crest 
2 m. N. W. of Mountain View House. ' 

Lake Duane is ii m. W. of State Dam. (See p. 189.) 
^ As a general rule there is good fishing in these waters 
m every season, and as the country surrounding is very 
wild, deer are often seen in the neighborhood. 

Three m. above State Dam (S. E.) Salmon R. receives 
the waters of Ragged Lake, Wolf Pond, etc. 

Ragged or Salmon Lake, 16 j4 m. S. E. of Malone, is 
reached by the same road that leads to State Dam and 
Round P., being 3^^ m. from Mountain View House. The 
length of this lake is about 3% m. (6 m. if Mud Lake 
IS mcluded ; really forming its northern part), with a width 
varymg from 1/ to ^ m. In the language of Hammond, 
It is as lovely a sheet of water as ever enthusiast described, 
or poet portrayed in song." In the S. E., Mount Lyon 
rears his lofty head to the clouds, standing like a gigantic 
sentinel, overlooking forest and lake, and watching in 
moveless silence the wilderness around him. This lake is 
most appropriately named. Its outlines are peculiarly 
irregular, most emphatically ragged. In its clear and deep 
waters numerous trout have their homes. 

Good pathways lead from this lake N. E. 5 m. to the 
Chateaugay waters {via Mountain P. i m.); and to Ingra- 
ham Pond, 2 m. N. W. which is 4 m. from State Dam. 

The singular lake called "Figure Eight,"— the name in- 
dicating its shape— lying directly N. of Ragged L., is 
reached as follows: Carry }{ m. to Lily Pad P.; row 
across this sheet i^ m., and up the inlet i m.; thence carry 
j4 m. 

A large portion of the Ragged Lake waters have be- 
come the property of the Ragged Lake Club ; composed 
of gentlemen residing in Syracuse. No person, except 
members of the association, will be allowed to hunt or fish 
on this sportsmen's preserve, without special permission. 
A. B. Parmelee & Son, Geo. Ehret -and Hon. Ashbel P. 
Fitch, also own land on this lake. From here it is only 5 
m. to Wolf Pond Station on the Chateaugay R. R. 



196 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Another resort in this section must not be overlooked 
viz : the "Bend in the River," also lying on the main route 
to Meacham Lake and Paul Smith's, 2 m. S. of Titusville, 
and 10 m. from Malone. The "Bend," true to its name, is 
a sharp curve of Salmon R., forming quite an *'oxbow," 
and is upon the whole a very romantic spot. Boats ascend 
the stream 6 m, (within 2 m, of State Dam), and there is 
good fishing and night hunting all the way up. Down the 
stream a short distance, navigation is obstructed by rapids 
and falls. The Ellis House, at the Bend, furnishes pleasant 
but limited quarters for sportsmen. The environing si:e- 
nery is indeed picturesque. A little west of the main road 
and directly in the rear of the house, the land rises to 
a considerable eminence. From this point looking S. E., 
there is as fine a landscape as ever artist could wish to 
place upon canvas — a bold, broken foreground, admitting 
a fine view of the river, which like a silvery serpent, is seen 
winding amid the mountain ranges, until lost in the dark 
green foliage of the forest. Several years ago, a celebrated 
New York artist who frequents this section of the Adiron- 
dacks nearly every season, selected this spot for an elabor- 
ate painting valued at several thousand dollars. It ap- 
peared on exhibition at the Academy of Design. Lovers 
of the beautiful or those in search of the picturesque will 
be delighted with the country here. 

Lower Chateaugay Lake is visited from Malone by a 
pleasant drive of 13 m. over a good carriage road. (P. 204 ) 

On the main road leadings., (from Malone) to Meacham 
L. and Paul Smith's in the little hamlet of Duane, is located 
the Ladd House. This hotel is new, and is pleasantly 
situated — commanding on every hand a delightful prospect. 
The important peak, De Bar Mt. — distant about 5 m. — 
forms a grand feature of the landscape. The hotel is on a 
table-land, 1,000 feet above Malone. It is also situated in 
the immediate vicinity of choice sporting grounds, and 
frequently sportsmen as well as lovers of pure air and fine 
scenery, are content to tarry here for a day or for weeks, 
instead of penetrating farther into the Wilderness. It is 
a favorite " Half- Way- House " for parties en route to 
Meacham L. and Paul Smith's, who procure here a dinner 
invariably satisfactory in every particular. 



THE LOST PRINCE. 



197 



The distance from Malone to Duane, is 15 m.; to Mea- 
cham L., 25 m.; to Paul Smith's, 37 m ; to Lower Saranac 
Lake, 50 m.; to Loon L., 29 m., and Ausable Forks, 52 m. 

There is a tri-weekly mail and stage line between Malone 
and Duane, The route to Ausable Forks is identical with 
that leading to Meacham Lake, as far as Duane, where it 
strikes the old ''Military Turnpike" and bears thence S. 
easterly, passing Loon Lake. And here we are again in 
the very center of another famous sporting section. [That 
most important and delightful resort. Loon Lake House, 
is fully described under the head of Route Twenty- third.'] 



It may be of interest to tourists to know that Malone is 
within convenient distance of other delightful resorts for 
the sporting world. St. Regis Indian Reservation,* cover- 
ing an area of 22 square m., through which the extremely 
clear waters of the St. Regis R. flow, is distant only 24 m. 
This stream passes through the most charming scenery im- 
aginable. 

At the mouth of the stream, where it joins the waters of the beautiful 
St. Lawrence, is located the ancient Indian village of St. Regis. Here 
the old church with its historic bell still stands, an object of interest. 
Within 2 m. of St. Regis is the little village of Hogansburg, where 
Eleazer Williams, the "Lost Prince," the reputed Bourbon, supposed 
heir to the throne of France, spent the last years of his eventful and 
mysterious life, doing mission work among the St. Regis tribe. 
Whether he came of royal blood, or was the son of the noble red man, 
we know not. 

The Essex County Republican publishes the following interesting 
account of that remarkable man : — 

Rev, Eleazer Williams, claimed to be Louis XVII, heir to the throne 
of France. 

The thunders of the American Revolution had hardly died away 
when the terrible and bloody French Revolution of 1789 was inaugura- 
ted, which overthrew the old Bourbon dynasty and founded a nominal 
and short lived Republic. 

Louis XVI. was the unfortunate Sovereign, and his wife was the 
queenly Marie Antoinette, of the Royal household of Austria. The 
Dauphin, or heir apparent to the throne, was a child of only four years 
when the royal family was seized by the mob and sent to prison. The 
King was beheaded in January, 1793, and the Queen in October of the 

*Tlie St. Regis Indians are a remnant of that once powerful tribe, tlie Six 
Nations, now reduced to a few liundred people. 



198 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

same year. The Dauphin was kept a prisoner in the Temple. Afier 
the execution of his father he was proclaimed king by the Royalists, but 
in June 8th, 1795, his death while yet in captivity was announced. 

There was always a suspicion that the Dauphin, who had then 
reached the age of ten years, did not die in the Temple as announced, 
but was clandestinely sent to America. 

In July, 1 81 2, at the very opening of our second war with Great 
Britain, a prepossessing young man arrived in Plattsburgh and presented 
himself to Gen. Benjamin Mooers with a letter from General Dearborn 
introducing him as Eleazer Williams, Superintendent General of the 
Northern Indian Department. He did gallant service on the frontier 
during the entire war and was wounded at the battle of Plattsburgh. 
He remained in and about Plattsburgh for some time after the war, 
published a spelling book in the language of the seven Iroquois nations 
in 1813 ; officiated as lay reader among the Oneida Indians ; took 
orders in the Episcopal church ; and was subsequently sent west on an 
important Indian mission There will always remain a mystery about 
Eleazer Williams' origin. His reputed history was in substance that he 
was born in Caughnawaga, Canada, about 1787, his father being of 
English descent, named Thomas Williams, and his mother a full 
blooded Indian woman, named Conwatewanteta. But Williams claimed 
to be the identical Louis XVII., or the lost Dauphin whose disappear- 
ance from the temple was always shrouded in mystery, and that he was 
brought over from France directly to Ticonderoga, N. Y., and subse- 
quently taken to Caughnawaga. 

He died at St. Regis Falls, N. Y. in 1858, and was buried in the 
little church yard at Hogansburg, beneath the shade of beautiful ever- 
green trees. 

It is said that a St. Regis Indian, for committing some misdemeanor, 
has been banished for life, by his tribe, to an island in the St. Law- 
rence, near the mouth of Salmon R., since called Kar-is-tau-tee's Island; 
named after the exile. His name has been anglicized into Chris-tu-tu. 
The island — a delightful one — is bounded on the S. side by an extensive 
marsh or rush bed, reaching nearly to the main shore. 

In these marshes the ducks build their nests and hatch 
their young ; consequently in the fall of the year one can 
have rare sport about "Chris-tu-tu's Island." ' Canadian 
sportsmen from Montreal frequent this place every autumn 
and spend weeks, hunting ducks, "Indian Summer" is the 
best period for securing them. 

After the sportsman has feasted his eyes upon the beau- 
ties of the landscape, and gladdened his heart with a satis- 
factory quantity of the finny tribe, he can pay his particular 
attention to acres of wild ducks that are frequently seen at 
one time within the limits of the Reservation. 



CHATEAUGAY. I99 

Again, it is but 20 m. from Malone to the St. Lawrence. 
To Fort Covington, situated on Salmon R., the distance is 
15 m.; thence to the mouth of the river 5 m. Tourists can 
engage small boats at Fort Covington, and guides, who will 
accompany them to the river of the "Thousand Isles." 
There is fine fishing among the islands of the St. Lawrence, 
especially near the mouth of Salmon R ; and as far up the 
river as Fort Covington. Better trolling waters in the 
spring time cannot be found anywhere. Pike, pickerel and 
black bass, abound here, and masqueallonge are frequently 
caught weighing from 10 to 30 pounds. Thus it will be 
seen that those who visit Malone on a sporting excursion, 
can try their luck in the mountain stream, or in the broad 
waters of the mighty St. Lawrence ; and those not thus in- 
clined may make the highly exciting tour down the rapids 
("poetry of the river") and pass on to Montreal and Que- 
bec ; as steamers that ply between those cities and Corn- 
wall, run up the Salmon regularly to Fort Covington. 

The principal hotel in Malone is the Howard House, 
admirably located within a few feet of the handsome depot. 
In its stately proportions it is a striking ornament to this 
prosperous village — the imposing central-piece of radiating 
business marts. Few houses in the country afford pleas- 
anter quarters, better supplied tables, or superior manage- 
ment. Its elegantly furnished rooms and most admirable 
appointments are adapted to the requirements of nearly 
150 guests, 100 of whom the dining hall will seat. In no 
hotel is there more attention paid to the comfort and con- 
venience, and even luxury of its patrons. The happiness 
of the proprietors is in exact ratio to the enjoyment of their 
visitors. The tourist and pleasure-seeker will find this 
resting place, alike worthy of a visit and all commendation. 



Twenty- first: — Chateaugay (French, Chateau-gai, a"gay 
castle," once standing near where Chateaugay R., enters 
the St. Lawrence, opposite the Island of Montreal), a thriv- 
ing town, 12 m. E. of Malone, has many scenes of beauty 
in its immediate neighborhood. 

In close proximity to the station house is a wonderful 
gorge {Ind., 0-sar-he-hon, "a place so difficult that the 



200 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



more one tries to extricate himself, the worse he is off,") 
200 ft. in depth, riving the solid rocks through which the 
Chateaugay River pours in mad career. 

A prominent journalist thus fitly describes this natural 
marvel, styled the Chateaugay Chasm: 

"It is remarkable that the State 
of New York should possess three 
such places as Watkin's Glen,Ausable 
Chasm and Chateaugay Chasm. That 
the last, the wildest and grandest of 
all, should have been so recently 
explored and made accessible to the 
tourist seems to give it the character 
of a recent discovery. * * * 
We drove through the farming out- 
skirts of the town i^ miles, in the 
direction of the St. Lawrence, to the 
precipitous cliffs of ChateaugayRiver, 
at a point within a beautiful natural 
park of forest trees, where the 
river, bounding down from the 
Chateaugay Lakes, pours its tor- 
rents of water through the narrow 
confines of the sandstone cliffs 
that rise from the rocky bed of 
the stream to a height of nearly two hundred feet. In this 
whole region there is certainly no more beautiful and 
charming spot at which to spend a few summer days, or 
even weeks. 

"Although the Chasm has been but recently opened up, 
no pains have been spared to guard the life and promote 
the safety and comfort of the adventurer, for such indeed 
must be termed the person who explores the series of deep 
gorges beneath him, extending far down the valley ; but 
well is he repaid by the most picturesque views of wild 
and rugged grandeur. From the pavilion on the edge of 
the cliff, passing down steps formed in the rock, the des- 
cent being safe although quite abrupt in places, we come 
first to a broad, flat rock, by which the river dashes over a 
high ledge, forming the upper or first falls, a cascade of 




CHATEAUGAY CHASM. 201 



full volume and foaming brilliancy. High above is the 
rugged masonry of sandstone blocks, formed by the regular 
stratification of the deposit, with frequent irregular fissures 
and seams nearly at right angles with the strata. The mind 
can scarcely free itself from the impression that the steep 
and massive walls were the work of some mediaeval master 
builder ; since, in addition to their artificial structural ap- 
pearance, in many places not much play of the imagination 
is needed to form in general outline mighty embattled 
towers and gothic arches that may lead far into the realm 
of mystery. Such is the character of Cathedral Rock and 
the Bastile on the left, and the Niches of Jupiter on the 
right, nearly opposite Vulcan's Cave. The Niches arid 
Vulcan's Cave are seen high up in the cliffs as we pass still 
down along the narrow gallery of smooth, natural pavement 
by the rippling surface of the stream to a widening of the 
gorge, where the force of the agitated water is somewhat 
calmed by spreading in a wide, thin, silvery sheet over the 
smooth sandstone that at this point unites the two walls of 
the chasm below the water ; but it is only the calm before 
the storm, since the sparkling waters in a bright glossy sheet 
glide down from one to another of a series of smooth stone 
terraces, at each interruption in its hasty career seething 
and foaming and sending up clouds of tiny sparkling prisms, 
that in the sunlight show a succession of iridescent bows 
that span the gleaming walls. This is Rainbow Basin. 
We pass close by the leaping waters, down a natural stair- 
way of nearly loo steps formed by the successive strata of 
the stone, and passing by Rainbow Basin we rest upon the 
smooth, shelving rock, and quench our thirst from a mmeral 
spring at the entrance of Giant Gorge. 

"At this point, looking back up the chasm down which 
we have come, the view is magnificent; embracing the high, 
rocky cliffs, with their wealth of crowning ferns and the 
foliage interlacing, thus arching the heights above, and 
the foaming waters of the several cascades seemingly dash- 
ing down upon us. Upward, the walls, rising gradually, 
approach each other so that the distance across the gulf 
at the top is only 25 feet. In Colonial times, and until 
the year 1800, the Chasm was here spanned by a bridge 
that formed a part of the great highway of the Wilderness. 



202 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Many are the interesting traditions regarding this locality, 
but space forbids their relation here. This is still called 
Pioneer's Crossing. On the north side is Table Rock, 
sometimes called Point Lookout, from which giddy height 
the view down the gorge is worthy of miles of travel ; but 
the tourist shudders as he draws back, and generally does 
not make a second advance. As we enter Giant Gorge we 
are still more impressed with the wildness of the place, 
and our guide soon shows us one of the most romantic and 
interesting of its features — the entrance to Vulcan's Cave, 
60 feet above the bed of the river and fully 120 feet from 
the top of the overhanging cliff. Unless this cave was 
visited by daring Indians it is quite certain that it never 
was visited by man until within a few months, when it was 
reached with great difficulty by means of long spliced 
ladders. Since that time an enclosed stairway has been 
erected by which the tourist may ascend and thus enter the 
cave. Within the cave, which is about 30 feet square, the 
walls and roof present an interesting study to the geolo- 
gist, as does indeed the Chasm in its entirety ; but certain 
places, the niches and grottoes, and pre-eminently the 
interior of Vulcan's Cave, reveal to us in some degree 
Nature's processes of forming and upbuilding, and likewise 
the results of her freaks in tearing down and hollowing 
out the rocks, while at the same time we may witness the 
slow process of disintegration still going on. The cave 
was doubtless hollowed out of the sandstone. Here within 
the cave it has a gnarled and fantastic stratification, by 
tiny streams working down from above and gradually 
wearing away the softer stone and shaping the masses of 
harder deposit into a great variety of forms, in part archi- 
tectural pillars supporting gothic arches, miniature dormer 
windows and niches, and in part grotesque forms in relief 
adorning the walls with sphinxes, odd shapes of demons, 
and even of unfinished statues of a variety of colors. When 
the formation is at all regular in its stratification the layers 
vary in thickness from a small fraction of an inch to several 
inches. From the elevated platform in front of the cave 
we look still farther for a mile or more down the Chasm 
into a region as yet passable only with great danger. To 
us at present it is a realm of mystery, where it is said there 



THE CHATEAUGAY LAKES. (See nexf page.) 203 

are still other caves which may be made accessible by 
another season. Descending, we pass the foot of Pulpit 
Rock, and leaving the plank walk at its terminus with some 
difficulty we picked our way along the water's edge, by 
clinging in many places to the overhanging rocks, a distance 
of a quarter of a mile, to view the three grottoes of Juno, 
Venus and Minerva. These grottoes are rarely visited, 
but they will repay the difficult journey thither, since these 
form one of the most interesting features of the locality, 
and one in which the Chateaugay Chasm surpasses that of 
Ausable. These grottoes are entered through golhic arches 
of singularly correct architectural appearance, and although 
they do not extend far into the rocky side of the Chasm, 
yet without, when viewed at a certain angle, they impress 
the mind that through them may be effected an entrance 
to the land of enchantment where dwells the Great Spirit, 
the presiding deity of this almost Plutonian region." 

Since this resort was opened many decided improvements 
have been made by the Chasm Company both in the Chasm 
proper and the park surrounding. Near the entrance to 
the Chasm, on the edge of a grove, has been erected a 
fine hotel building, with accommodations for a large num- 
ber of visitors for any period of time. Excellent meals will 
be served at all hours, with well furnished and comfortable 
rooms, and every attention will be paid to the comfort of 
the visitor. The building is most delightfully situated, the 
air thereabout invigorating, and one will feel amply repaid 
for his visit. From the cupola of the hotel can be had a 
view of magnificent grandeur, the Adirondacks on the one 
hand, and the majestic St.* Lawrence and the Canadian 
shores on the other. 

The Chasm House coach meets every train, to convey 
visitors to and from the Chasm. 

The railroad crosses this deep channel worn by the 
Chateaugay, on an embankment, 160 feet above the river, 
and 800 feet long. There is a remarkable spring near the 
village that receives considerable attention. For quite a 
space of time it emits a large volume of water, highly 
charged with nitrogen gas, assuming the form of bubbles 
on its surface. Suddenly it ceases to flow and remains dry 



204 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

for an indefinite period. One mile N. E. of this there is a 
constant gas spring. 

Ladd's and The Union are the leading hotels of the 
village. 

The two Chateaugay Lakes are among the most attrac- 
tive and important of all the Adirondack waters. And 
from their easy access to the cars and telegraph, no other 
locality in that region is more favorable for sportsmen and 
pleasure seekers. 

The lower lake is situated about 7 m. S. of Chateaugay 
village. Concord stages meet the trains at the depot and 
convey passengers to this lake, by a pleasant ride of about 
i^ hours over an excellent plank road. Here at the foot 
is a good hotel — the Banner House — which is run in con- 
nection with Willow Beach Cottage, near the Merrill House, 
on the upper lake. Board, boats, and guides are furnished 
at reasonable rates. (P. O , Chateaugay Lake, N. Y.) At 
the wharf, in front of the hotel, lies a commodious yacht 
always "steamed up," This lake is 2^ m, in length and 
I m. wide, and surrounded by fine mountain scenery and 
rocky shores. Leaving this water by the steamer, the tour- 
ist enters the Narrows, 4 m. long, and from 10 to 40 r. in 
width, where there is, in some places, fine fishing. From^a 
point, 2 m. beyond the lower lake on the W. shore, a foot 
path leads W. to Ragged Lake (5 m.) via., Mountain P. 
(4 m) The Narrows soon widen and the scenery expands. 
A short turn is made and the upper lake, like magic, is 
revealed in one of the most lovely views in the world. 
There are a number of comfortable boarding houses at 
desirable points, and excellent sport. On the W. shore, 
fine private residences have been constructed by gentlemen 
of Boston and New York, who spend the summers here 
with their families. In the center of the lake is Rock or 
Mead Island, with a small private cottage. On visiting the 
spot one could easily imagine he was in fairy land, the 
picture is so grand and beautiful. None should leave the 
lake without getting a view of it from that point ; and but 
few have done so, if we may judge from the hundreds of 
names recorded there. (Watson). 

Upper Chateaugay Lake is 5 x 2, and thus there is an 
uninterrupted water reach, including the two lakes and the 




SCENES ON UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 



UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 205 

Narrows, of 1 1 m. not to name the se\ ^ il miles of inlet 
navigation. These waters abound in th^ finest quality of 
fish, such as speckled and lake-trout, shaa a,nd white-fish. 
Deer and other game are found on the neighboring 
mountains. 

The Twin Ponds, lying 3 m. S. of the head of the upper 
lake, at the base of Norton's Peak, are reached by trail. 
It is said that there is a wonderful cavern in this mountain. 

West of Twin P's are Spring, Wolf and Plumadore Ponds. 
(See Route Twentieth^ and p. 194.) 

From "Ralph's," on the N. E. side of the same lake a 
pathway extends 3 m. E. to Bradley Pond, a sheet of water 
some 2 m. in circumference, once a famous trout resort ; 
and thence Chazy Lake, 2 m. farther E., is accessible by a 
plank road, or by Chateaugay R. R. 

From the W. shore of the upper lake (about midway, a 
little N. of Indian Pt.,) a trail leads 4 m. N. W. — ascend- 
ing all the way — to Mountain P.; a small sheet discharging 
into this lake, and elevated nearly 600 ft. above it. 

From this we descend 400 ft. to reach Ragged L. i m. 
N. W. (See p. 195.) 

The hotel accommodations at Upper Chateaugay Lake 
are so exceptionally excellent that visitors attracted by the 
fame of this wildly beautiful and fish-burdened water, are 
generally induced to prolong their stay. 

"Ralph's," (P. O., Lyon Mountain, N. Y.) has become 
one of the most prominent of all the Wilderness hostelries. 
This spacious structure is situated on the E. shore of the 
lake, about i m. above the Narrows, nearly opposite Rock 
Island, and at the foot of Birch Mt., back of which towers 
the lofty form of Lyon Mt., the most conspicuous object in 
the landscape. The situation is truly enchanting ; com- 
manding, as it does, a continuous view of the entire lake. 
The house is three stories in height, and a dancing hall and 
three verandas extend the length of the building, the latter 
affording extensive and delightful promenades. The in- 
terior of the hotel has been arranged with especial refer- 
ence to the comfort of its patrons. Every sleeping-room 
contains a good bed, and generally affords a fine lake-view 

18 



2o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of several miles. The office, reading room and parlor have 
open fireplaces, which add much to their cheerfulness. 
The latter is furnished with an excellent upright piano for 
the use of guests. The dining-room is pleasantly located, 
with a seating capacity for 125 people. A building, con- 
taining billiard parlors and bowling alleys has been erected. 
A telegraph office is located in the house, and mails are 
received twice daily. Daily papers reach this place at 9:30, 
t\\Q morning of their publication. This is accomplished by 
means of the Chateaugay Railroad, extending from 
Plattsburg to Lower Saranac Lake. Carriages from 
"Ralph's" meet every train at Lyon Mt. Two steamers 
make several trips daily to the foot of the lower lake, (fare, 
50 cts.) — connecting with stages to and from Chateaugay 
Station on O. & L. C. R. R.; fare, 50 cts. The same 
point may be reached with carriages from Ralph's without 
taking a steamer. 

The New York Tribune says : — 

*'Many tourists who would be glad to spend a portion of 
the summer in the Adirondacks are prevented by dread of 
the long stage rides, which are necessary to reach distant 
points. 

"Ralph's Hotel offers to all such a most desirable and 
homelike retreat, only three and one-half miles from the 
Chateaugay Railroad, starting at Plattsburg, the latter 
place being reached by the Delaware & Hudson Rail- 
road, or by steamers on Lake Champlain. 

"These routes offer to travelers the very best facilities, 
and everything possible is done to insure their comfort. 
'Ralph's' is beautifully situated on Upper Chateaugay 
Lake, one of the most charming sheets of water in the 
wilderness, surrounded by high mountains and dense 
woods. 

"It has for several years been known as a resort for the 
best class of tourists, who desire a quiet time and a good 
rest without the restraints of larger and more intensely 
fashionable houses. The hotel is a marvel of neatness ; 
and the table, quality and service considered, second to 
none in the mountains. With good boats, delightful drives, 



RALPHS. UPPER CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 207 

rambles in the woods and first-class fare, the visitor's time 
is passed altogether too quickly, but with great benefit to 
health, secured by the pure and bracing air." 



Table of distances from Ralph's to 

MILES. 

South Inlet, (fishing grounds, boat) - - 3^ 

Rocky Inlet, (fishing grounds,) Indian Point, - 2 

East Inlet, (fishing grounds,) - - - V2 

Oul-e-out, (fishing grounds,) - - - ^ 

Lyon Mountain R. R. Station, - - - 35^ 

Summit of Lyon Mt., - - - - 6 

Chateaugay Ore and Iron Go's Mine, (all plank) 4 

Chateaugay Ore and Iron Go's Forge, - - 7 

Malone, (six miles of plank road) - - 18 

Ghateaugay, O. & L. G. R. R., (steamer and stage) 14 
Ogdensburg, - - - - - 87 

Syracuse, {via Norwood) - - - 208 

Syracuse, {via Malone and Herkimer) - - 258 

Plattsburg, connecting with D. & H. R. R. - 351^ 

Montreal, {via Plattsburg or Chateaugay) - 108 
Lake George, {via Plattsburg) - - - 102 

Boston, {via Plattsburg or Ghateaugay) - - 300 
New York, {via Plattsburg,) 13 hours' ride, - - 344 

Ghazy Lake, z;/a R. R., - - - - 81^ 

Rouse's Point, - - - - - 59 

Paul Smith's, {via Malone) - - - 60 1/^ 

Mountain Pond, {via boat and trail,) - - 5 

Ragged Lake, {via Mountain Pond,) . - 6 

State Dam and Round Pond, {via Ragged Lake,) - 9 

Wolf Pond, (boat and good trail,) - - 8 

Gharley Pond, (5 miles from Indian Point) - - 7 

Twin Pond, {via South Inlet and the Spring,) - 6 

The Merrill House, located near the foot of the lake E. 
side, and within ^ m. of the Narrows, also bears a high 
reputation. It is delightfully situated, affording a magnifi- 
cent view of the lake and twenty surrounding mountain- 
peaks. The building is flanked with broad piazzas, and an 



2o8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

open fireplace lends additional pleasantness to the parlor. 
It is nearly encompassed by evergreen trees, lending deli- 
cious shade and healing aroma to diseased lungs, while 
numerous charming walks and drives lead in all directions 
through the woods and along the shore, from which are 
afforded glimpses of beauty unsurpassed. A private park 
and fishing-ground have been established, for the enjoy- 
ment of guests. Several suitable cottages conveniently 
near offer pleasant quarters to the patrons. It will be seen 
that a special P. O., (Merrill, N. Y.) has been placed 
in the house. Mail and telegraph facilities are complete. 
Guests will be transported to and from the R. R. station 
at Lyon Mt., (4 m.) at 50 cts. each. 

Hotel Interlaken is also located on the eastern side, near 
the outlet, a few rods from the Merrill House and 1 5^ 
m. from "Ralph's" by boat, or 3 m. by carriage. Its situa- 
tion is delightful. It stands on elevated ground, 50 ft. 
above the water and 100 ft. fiom the shore — commanding 
a superb view of the lake and a score or more of encircling 
mountains. Several commodious cottages are used in con- 
nection with the hotel where home-like retirement is en- 
joyed. The entire establishment is capable of caring for 
100 guests. The broad verandas, well furnished rooms, 
open fire-places, excellent cuisine (under the supervision 
of an experienced chef') and moderate prices, offer sufficient 
inducements to command large patronage. The grounds 
are pleasant and extensive, affording the usual variety of 
out-door sports. The hotel stage meets every train at Lyon 
Mt., 4 m. distant. (P. O. Merrill, N. Y.) 

The Lake View House is pleasantly located near the 
shore, 60 rods from the Interlaken, and commands a pros- 
pect similar in picturesqueness to that disclosed by the 
other resorts named. It offers entertainment to 35 guests, 
at moderate rates. (P. O. Merrill). 

The Indian Point House has a charming situation on 
the bold headland — really a peninsula — reaching far into 
the water, on the W. side, near the head of the lake, 2 m. 
from Ralph's, and 3 m. from the P. O., (Merrill). The 
panorama of lake and mountain scenery surveyed from the 



ROUSE S POINT. 



209 



three spacious verandas of the main building, is of exquisite 
beauty and grandeur. 

The establishment has good accommodations for 40 
guests. The beds, furnishment and table, are excellent. 
The proprietor— R. M. Shutts— is well and favorably 
known to sportsmen, with his forest experience of more 
than a score of years ; and those who give him their patron- 
age _ will receive the most satisfactory attention. The 
choicest sporting grounds for the use of rod and gun, will 
be found near his place. 

No liquors are sold on the premises, and order, quiet and 
cleanliness prevail, while great care is taken to promote 
the comfort and pleasure of every visitor.* 

The steamers touch at this and at all the other summer 
resorts on the lake. 

The outlet of the Chateaugay Lakes is Chateaugay River, 
a tributary of the St. Lawrence, 

Vast beds of iron ore are successfully worked at Lyon 
Mt. by the Chateaugay Ore & Iron Co., in whose interest 
the Chateaugay R R. was constructed. 



Twenty - second :—Y -9.0111 Rouse's Point, (Windsor Hotel) 
the E. terminus of the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain 
R. R., and N. terminus of the Delaware & Hudson R. R., 
to Mooer's Junction, 12 m.; thence to Chateaugay, n ™ i 
Malone, 12 m.; Moira, 14 m.; Norwood, 22^ m.; Ogdens- 
burg, 24^ m. The "Montreal & Plattsburg Railway," 
(now p. & H. R. R.) connects with this railroad at Mooer's 
junction, 20 m. from Plattsburg. Tourists from the N. 
and E. pass over these lines to visit the Chateaugay, St. 
Regis, Saranac and Tupper Lake regions. i^See routes 
from Plattsburg^ 

The excellent restaurant at Mooer's Junction demands 
more than a mere passing notice. The superior lunches 

'And here let us correct the opinion held hy many, that the use of ardent 
spuits is Indispensable when camping out. No impression could he more 
en-oneous. The pure, bracing atmosphere of this mountain region, affords 
all the stimulus that any nature requires ; and health will he more readily 
gained, or more Hrmly established by the utter rejection of artificial stim^- 
lUants. 



2IO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and dinners provided here; always ready on arrival of the 
trains; have rendered this stopping-place famous through- 
out this line of travel. 

Near the Canada line, in the N. W. corner of this town, 
is a natural curiosity called the Gulf. This is a remark- 
able chasm i6 rods wide and 300 feet deep, enclosed on 
both sides with perpendicular walls of Potsdam sandstone; 
and at its bottom lies a pond said by some to be fathom- 
less — by others, 150 feet deep. Its formation is deemed a 
mystery, as no known existing agency could have produced 
this marvel. 




PLATTSBURG. 2£I 



DIVISION III. 



INTO THE SARANAC REGION. 



The ordinary avenues of approach are those starting from 
Plattsburg, Port Kent and Westport. Tourists cojning fro7n 
the N., tV., and S., however, will find it most convenient to 
follow that new line of travel from Malone, or Herkimer : 
The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway. 



Twenty-third : — Plattsburg is beautifully situated on 
the W. shore of Lake Champlain at the head of Cumber- 
land Bay and on both sides of Saranac River.* This stream, 
in its passage from its lake-adorned home in the Great 
Wilderness, (its principal sources are Upper and Lower 
Saranac, Round and Rainbow Lakes) flows with gentle 
current for most of the distance, (about 70 m.) until it 
reaches this point, where it descends some 40 or 50 ft. by 
a succession of falls and rapids, affording excellent water 
power to the numerous manufacturing establishments lo- 
cated here.f The surface of the town slopes toward the 
lake, rendering its situation most delightful. The village 
has suffered severely from several destructive fires, but has 
arisen from each infliction in augmented beauty and ren- 
ovated vigor. This is attested by the massive blocks of 
stores and manufactories, its elegant churches, public build- 
ings and fine private residences. 

In the year 1769, Count Charles de Fredenbuirg, a German nobleman, 
also a captain in the British army, having married a lady of the queen's 
household, in England, obtained a grant from the English government 



* Saranac is an Indian word signifying, "a river that flows under rock." 

t Three of the falls in this stream have a perpendicular descent of about 
40 ft. each. 



212 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of 30,000 acres of land lying on Cumberland Bay, in the present 
town of Plattsburg. He resided here in great splendor for several 
years, previous to the Revolution. At the commencement of that con- 
flict, he sent his family to Montreal but remained himself for some time 
on his estate. At length he mysteriously disappeared and it was sup- 
posed that he was robbed and murdered, as he had much silver-plate 
and other valuable property in his possession. His house and a saw 
mill he had erected some three miles from his residence were burned at 
the time of his disappearance. 

In 1784, Judge Zephaniah Piatt (after whom Plattsburg was named) 
and thirty-two other proprietors, who had acquired rights to soldiers' 
bounties, under the State Act of 1781, located these rights upon the 
land embraced by De Fredenburg's warrant; as the title of the heirs 
of the latter to this tract was not established or recognized ; and laid 
out the town of Plattsburg. — (Palmer & Mather.) 

Plattsburg is celebrated as the scene of one the most important battles 
that occurred during the last war with Great Britain. We allude to 
the Battle of Plattsburg, and the simultaneous naval conflict, be- 
tween the squadrons of Commodore Downie and Commodore Mc- 
Donough, on the nth of Sept., 1814. In this battle, a force of 1,500 
regulars, and about 2,500 militia, under General Macomb, defeated and 
routed a force of 14,000 well appointed and veteran troops, the victors 
of a hundred battle fields, led by Sir George Prevost ; and the fleet, 
under the command of Commodore McDonough, destroyed a force 
considerably its superior on the lake. The loss to the British land- 
forces, was more than 2,000, in killed, wounded, prisoners and desert- 
ers ; that of the Americans, not more than 150. 

. On the lake, the English loss was about 1,000, in killed, wounded 
and prisoners ; that of the Americans no. The British commander, 
Commodore Downie, was killed in the naval action. — [Mather.] 

Trent Falls, an attractive locality 9 m. from Plattsburg, 
is reached by a pleasant drive. 

The AusABLE Chasm may be visited from Plattsburg by 
a drive of about 12 m. By this route that sublime natural 
wonder is reached by a delightful carriage drive along the 
shore of Lake Champlain, winding through beautiful groves; 
and by fording the Ausable R. just above its mouth. 
Tourists en route to the Chasm, should pause, 3 m. from 
Plattsburg, at Hotel Champlain — the pride of this local- 
ity — ascend the observatory, and enjoy a beautiful and 
extended view of the lake, the Green Mountains, the 
Adirondacks and the surrounding country, including the 
State's Prison at Dannemora. 

In this excursion the drive might be pleasantly diversi- 
fied by a circuit over Hallock Hill, a delightful "look-out." 



FOUQUET HOUSE. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 213 

The Chasm we shall describe in another connection. (See 
Route Twenty-fourth?) 

The drive around Cumberland Head over a fine road 
skirting the lake, of which an extensive view is constantly 
presented, should not be omitted. 

The hotels of Plattsburg have established high reputa- 
tions. The Fouquet House has long been a prominent 
institution of its kind, and familiarly known for scores of 
years to the traveling community. It is an elegant and 
spacious structure, not less imposing in its dimensions and 
position, than attractive by the novelty and beauty of its 
architecture. It is capable of accommodating many guests, 
and with style and elegance that are always satisfactory. 
The rooms are large and well ventilated, and supplied with 
every promotive of comfort and enjoyment. The grounds 
and flower garden, animate with beauty and redolent with 
fragrance, afford a most agreeable retreat. The broad 
piazzas on two sides of the house, and the promenade up- 
on the roof, offer a wide and delightful view of the lake, 
the battle-ground and the scene of the naval engagement; 
the village, the surrounding country, the Green Mountains 
on the E., and the Adirondacks at the S., presenting every 
variety of scenery; the wild, the picturesque, the grand. 
This hotel, by its beautiful and spacious grounds, and per- 
fect quiet, furnishes peculiarly safe and pleasant accommo- 
dations for the residence of ladies and children during the 
summer. 

The Cumberland House and Witherill's Hotel are both 
excellent and convenient houses, spacious in their arrange- 
ments, and calculated for the entertainment of a large 
number of guests. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

Samuel de Champlain, the distinguished French officer, enthusiastic 
explorer, founder of Canada ("New France") and its first Governor 
General, joined a war party of the Algonquins in an expedition from 
Quebec against the Iroquois, and on the 3d of July, 1609. entered up- 
on the waters of this " wilderness sea." The date is worthy of notice, 
as the discovery of Champlain occurred eleven years previous to 
the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, and a few weeks before 
Hendrick Hudson had reached the site of Albany, in the Half Moon, 
(about Sept. i6th.) The lake has received various names. Among 



214 THE ADIRONDACKS. • 

those applied to it in the aborginal dialects, were Pe ta-on-bough^ in 
allusion to the alternations in its scenery of land and water, or signifying 
"a double lake," referring to Lake George; and Can-i a de-ri Gua- 
runte, "the Door of the Country." Also, kot-s tic h-ni, '*the evil or 
coward spirit," whose existence, according to the legend, terminated on 
an island in this lake (Holden); and " Lake of Corlear," in honor of 
Arent Van Corlear, (the founder of Schenectady; the beneficient friend 
of the Mohawks,) who was drowned in its waters. The two white 
companions of the leading discoverer called it Champlain. The French 
afterwards designated it Irocoisia, and Lac des Iroquois, or Mere des 
Iroquois, " Mother of the Iroquois ;" but posterity, with greater justice, 
has restored the most appropriate name. 

Lake Champlain from Whitehall to St. Johns is one hun- 
dred and twenty miles in length, and is about thirteen miles 
in width, opposite Port Kent, at its broadest point. The 
narrow portion extending from Whitehall to Fort Ticon- 
deroga, the Indians styled Tsi-non-dro sa, " Tail of the 
Lake." The rare and exceeding beauty of this sheet at- 
tracts and entrances the observer. Travelers pronounce 
it to be unsurpassed in either hemisphere, in its peculiar 
combination of the picturesque and beautiful with impos- 
ing magnificence. On the eastern shore it is bordered by a 
highly cultivated country, bounded in the horizon by the 
irregular outline of the Green Mountains; on the west, the 
dark and towering Adirondacks, broken into dislocated 
groups, spread into the interior as far as the eye reaches, 
at points projecting their rugged spurs into the bosom of 
the lake, and often forming lofty headlands covered by 
dense forests, or presenting frov/ning masses of naked 
rocks. Choice ranges of table- land intervene occasionally, 
strikingly contrasting with the rude mountain scenery, by 
the richest agricultural improvements, and embellishment 
of pleasant villages. Numerous islands enhance the beauty 
of the scene. 

The scenery of the lake in the winter, when earth and 
ice are clothed in their pure dazzling mantle of snow, and 
the mountains, glow in the sun-beams like vast masses of 
opal, is indescribably beautiful and imposing. 

Lake Champlain will attain a far more momentous com- 
mercial attitude than it has ever occupied, if the magnifi- 
cent conception of uniting the waters of the St. Lawrence 



FORT TICONDEROGA. 215 

with the Hudson by ship canals, of which the lake would 
be an important link, should be realized. 

Fort Ticonderoga is twenty- four miles from Whitehall. 
Champlain undoubtedly penetrated as far as this point, and 
probably visited Lake George. In this vicinity must have 
occurred the merciless battle with the Iroquois, — his first 
encounter with them, as leader of the Adirondacks (Algon- 
quins) — which he described with such graphic power in his 
journal, and an account of which will be found in all the 
recent histories of the region.* The massive and venerable 
ruins standing upon the bold, rocky summit of the promon- 
tory, — nearly loo feet above the surface of the lake, — are 
viewed with peculiar advantage in the approach from the 
south. No spot on tlie continent is surrounded with a 
deeper and more thrilling interest. Not only from its ex- 
tensive majestic ruins and hoary age does it claim attention, 
but deep feeling is aroused by the fact that it has been 
held by the military power of three distinct nations, and is 
the common theatre of their glories and triumphs ; of their 
defeats and disasters. Its environs were the nursery of the 
heroes of the Revolution. Most of the ramparts, the covered 
way, and walls of the edifices remain, and will attract and 
reward the researches of the tourist. The bakery, situated 
near the south-western angle of the barracks and beneath the 
glacis, is the best preserved portion of the works. Immedi- 
ately above the steamboat landing may be traced the 
"Grenadiers' Battery," at one period a formidable redoubt. 

The construction of the fortress at Ticonderoga (Ind.. Che on-de ro ga, 
"Sounding Waters," or "Where the Waters meet;" French, Carillon, 
"Chiming of the Bells," — alluding to the brawling waters amid the 
rocks in the outlet of Lake George,) was commenced in 1755, by the 
French. It was a place of great strength, both by nature and art. On 
three sides it is bounded by water, ar.d about half of the other side is 
occupied by a deep morass. The line of defence was completed by the 
erection of a breast-work, nine feet high, on the only assailable ground. 
In 1758, Gen'l Abercrombie, wi h a grand army, composed of British 
and provincial troops (16,000 strong,) passed down Lake George from 
Fort William Henry, with magnificent display, and made a bloody as- 

* Some of the best authorities claim tliat this battle occurred near Crown 
Point. 



2l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

sault on the fort, which was defended by the forces of Montcalm;* but 
was repulsed, with a loss of nearly 2,000, killed and wounded. Among 
the former was the noble and chivalrous Lord Howe, who was univer- 
sally beloved by the army. 

But the English, under the skillful leadership of the brilliant Lord 
Amherst, were more successful in 1759. A siege was commenced, and 
the garrison soon deciding that surrender would become unavoidable, 
hastily dismantled the works, and withdrew; leaving the fastness to the 
possession of the British. This was attributable to the necessity of 
joining Montcalm at Quebec. 

On the loth of May, 1775, the bold and reckless exploit of Ethan 
Allen, secured this stronghold to the Americans. 

The following bit of history we are confident will be entirely new to 
nearly every reader: — 

It has been stated on seemingly good authority that just before the 
Revolution, Col. Allen frequently visited Fort Ticonderoga, and thus 
became very familiar with its situation and condition and well ac- 
quainted with the garrison. This knowledge subsequently proved to 
be of great advantage to him. Acting in accordance with the establish- 
ed rule that "Everything is fair in War," he visited the fortress, the 
day before the date set to attack it, and artfully induced a number of 
the troops to get several hours' leave of absence from their commander 
and to join him in a drinking bout at a tavern near the opposite shore 
of the lake. The plan worked to perfection. The soldiers accompanied 
"the Green Mountain Boy" to the appointed place, and became so 
inebriated by frequent potions of strong liquor, carefully mixed, that 
they remained in a drunken stupor through the entire night. 

In the meantime, the fort, — weakened by the absence of many of its 
defenders, — had been surprised and captured, "In the name of The 
Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." 

This was immediately followed by the capture of Crown Point. (See 
p. 218.) 

In July, 1777, Ticonderoga was invested by the English host under 
Gen'l Burgoyne. Opposite, — on the S. side of the outlet of Lake 
George, and about 1,800 yards from the "Old Fort," — stands an emin- 
ence, over 700 feet in height, to appearance inaccessible, called Mount 
Defiance, (then " Sugar Loaf Hill,") where Burgoyne with a boldness, 
secrecy and dispatch almost unparalleled, conveyed a number of cannon, 
stores and troops. The artillery was raised by large brass tackles from 
tree to tree, and from rock to rock, over dens of rattlesnakes, to the 
summit, which entirely commanded the works of the fortification, and, 
with a battery of heavy guns, rendered them untenable. 

This circumstance must ever be considered as a full justification of 
General St. Clair's sudden retreat in the night time with the American 

* Montcalm is one of the most brilliant and heroic cliaracters that glitter 
in our colonial history. His fame is obscured by one or two acts of imputed 
ferocity, from which it has never heen successfully vindicated. Until its 
glorious last act, (at Quebec) his life was one unbroken series of triumphs 
and successes.— [Watson.] 




Ruins of Fort Ticonderoga. 



FORT CROWN POINT 



217 



army; and the observation which he made on his trial in his own de- 
fence that "though he had lost a post he had saved a state," was 
afterwards verified. — [Morse.] 

A heavy floating chain-bridge, 1,000 feet long, and an immense 
boom, erected across the lake to the fortified post at Mt. Independence 
(over which St. Clair retreated), was cut through in two hours. 

Upon hearing of the defeat and surrender of Gen'l Burgoyne, in Oct. 
1777, the English garrison precipitately abandoned the fort and returned 
to Canada. Neither of the fortresses of Ticonderoga or Crown Point 
was occupied for any length of time after that event. 

The " New York & Canada R. R." commences at White- 
hall, extends along the W. shore of Lake Champlain, and 
terminates at Rouse's Point. It is but another link in the 
magnificent chain of routes controlled by the Delaware & 
Hudson Canal Co. As the traveler speeds along on this 
line he is entertained by a constant succession of charming 
landscapes, sublime mountain and entrancing lake pictures. 

A railroad has also been built from Ticonderoga to Lake 
George (Baldwin) (4}^ m.) ; rendering a stage ride no 
longer necessary ; where the beautiful steamer Ticonderoga, 
or her consort, the Horicon, receives passengers and con- 
veys them through that peerless sheet. 

At Fort Ticonderoga the traveler, if weary of railroad 
traveling, may embark upon the Vermont, — one of the ma- 
jestic steamers of the Champlain Transportation Com- 
pany, — for Larabee's; Crown Point; Fort St. Fred- 
erick; Port Henry; Westport ; Essex; Burlington; 
Port Kent ; Port Jackson ; Bluff Point ; and Platts- 
BURG ; or at Westport, on the new steel steamer Chateau- 
gay, for North Hero, or any of the intermediate points named, 
— both steamers forming a day line between these places, — 
and connecting with various railroad routes on their pas- 
sage. These vessels are models of elegance, neatness and 
convenience ; their tasteful furnishing is wholly of native 
wood, and they are regarded as second to few steamers that 
float on American waters. 

On the Vermont shore, the first landing, about two miles, 
is Larabee's Point. 

The traveler's attention is soon attracted by the ruins of 
Crown Point, (6 m. N. of the landing bearing that name) 
situated on the long and beautiful peninsula projecting into 

19 



2l8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the lake from the western shore. The extremity of this 
promontory is picturesquely decked with a stone light- 
house. A part of the enormous barracks and fortifications 
are in good preservation, and although not tinged with any 
of the romance that entrances one at Carillon, are interest- 
ing as memorials of more than a century ago. 

The old French redoubt, — styled Fort St. Frederick, in honor of Fred- 
erick Maurepas, Premier of France, — was erected on the steep banks 
of the lake in 1731. Now, only the remnant of a wall, and a heap of 
rubbish are seen to remind one of its former existence. This cape was 
denominated ""Point de la Couronne,^'' by the French, and Tek-ya-dough- 
nig-a-ri-ga: — " two points opposite to each other" — by the Indians. 
The place opposite, on the eastern shore, presenting a bold bluflF, was 
called by the early Dutch, " Crum Point ; " by the French, — who occu- 
pied it as a military post, beginning with 1631, — ''''Point a la Cheveleur'P 
and by the present generation, Chimney Point, — deriving its name 
from the remains of pie-historic habitations found there by the settlers. 

From the testimony of ancient travelers, especially of Kalm, the 
Swede, and the vestiges remaining, in the form of a McAdamized street, 
lined with flagging sidewalks, well-worn ; and the ruins of numerous 
cellar-walls, it is evident that a flourishing French village, with a popu- 
lation of perhaps 3,oco people, once existed at Crown Point, under the 
'* protecting wings " of Fort St Frederick, where not a single original 
house now stands. In fact, a large area of the surrounding country 
shows unmistakable indications that it was thickly populated at an early 
period. — (Watson & Hough.) 

Immediately after Fort St. Frederick fell into the hands of the Eng- 
libh, in 1759, ^he construction of Fort Crown Point was commenced by 
Lord Amherst, within 175 yards (S. W.) of the former structure.* It 
became the most extensive and magnificent fortress in America ; cost- 
ing the British Government about $10,000,000 The walls, of solid 
masonry, 25 feet thick and 25 feet high, formed a circuit of % ro»» en- 
closing the officers' quarters, a double row of stone barracks, — intended 
for the possible use of 2 000 troops, — and a grand parade ground. Sur- 
rounding the works was a broad and deep trench, cut through the solid 
rock with immense labor and expense. On the N. side was a massive 
gate, a strong draw-bridge and a covered way to the water of the lake. 
(Spafford ) * 

At Fort St. Frederick Landifig, the Cham plain Transpor- 
tation Co. has made many improvement?, — including suita- 
ble walks; also a commodious cafe and pavilion, for the 
convenience and entertainment of passengers desiring to 
viisit the ruins of the forts. 



*It Is said that this place was called Crown Pt., hecause the Indian allies 
of the French, made many scalijing excursions from FOrt St. Frederick. 



-fia^. 









RUINS OF FORT CROWN POINT. 



"the cloven rock. lake champlain. 219 

Two miles across Bulwagga Bay, the boat reaches Port 
Henry. At the south appear the rough acclivities of 
Bulwagga Mountain, the beginning of the Kayadarosseras 
Range. The village, pleasantly si'uated. is the site of one 
of the most extensive iron works in the region and con- 
tiguous to a vast mineral district. 

After leaving Port Henry the mountain views on each 
side of the lake begin to unfold to the tourist, in their 
beauty and grandeur; Dix's Peak and Giant of the Valley 
being most prominent in the Adirondack group. Bald 
Mountain, standing midway between Port Henry and West- 
port, is easily accessible, and from its isolated position and 
proximity to the water aflfords a rich panoramic \*iew of the 
lake for an extent of fifty miles, and of the Vermont shore 
with surrounding mountains on every side. Near the base 
of the mountain lie the "Adirondack Springs." 

Westport, a pleasant village, is ten miles from Port Hen- 
ry. The spires of Vergennes, in the east, are soon percei- 
ved. The lake again contracts in breadth and at its nar- 
rowest point are the ruins of Fort Cassin, at the mouth of 
Otter Creek {Riziere aux Lo^utres.) the largest river in Ver- 
mont, and navigable eight miles to Vergennes. To this 
place, the steam-yacht. "Water Lily," runs daily from West- 
port, connecting with the steamer Vermont: and stopping 
at Fort Cassin, en route. On the opposite side of the lake 
is Split Rock Mountain (the northernmost summit of the 
East Moriah or Scarron Range.) with a light-house at the 
extremity. In front of this is a remarkable formation 
called by the French ^'Roche Rendu,"' ("Cut or Broken 
Rock") and now known as Split Rock, but originally called, 
with much better taste and far more euphony, "The 
Cloven Rock." A point of the mountain, which projected 
about 50 yards into the lake, appears to have been de- 
tached by some convulsion of nature. It is separated from 
the main land by a fissure 10 feet wide, and the opposite 
sides so exactly suit each other that one needs no other 
proof of their having been once united. It contains about 
half-an-acre of earth and rock, (covered with trees.) rising: 
nearly 30 feet, in a bold and vertical front. One can occa- 
sionally walk through this chasm, though its floor is usually 
occupied by the water of the lake. 



2 20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Round this point is a spacious bay sheltered from the 
south and northwest winds by the surrounding hills and 
woods. On the west side are four or five finely cultivated 
farms, which at certain seasons and in certain situations 
form one of the most beautiful landscapes imaginable. 
Sailing under this coast for several miles before you come 
to Cloven Rock, the mountains, rude and barren, seem to 
hang over the passenger and threaten destruction. A water, 
boundless to the sight lies before him. Man feels his own 
littleness and infidelity itself pays an unwilling homage to 
the Creator. Instantly and unexpectedly the scene changes; 
and peeping with eager eye through the cleft, nature pre- 
sents to the view a silver basin, a verdant lawn, a humble 
cottage, a golden harvest, a majestic forest, a lofty moun- 
tain, and an azure sky, rising one above another in just 
gradation to the amazing whole. — (Morse.) 

Split Rock Park, (3 m. S of Essex) embracing 400 acres, 
and presenting a grand lake frontage of nearly 2 m (largely 
on Whallon's Bay), is a pleasant resort. The "Split Rock 
Cottage " offers good entertainment to visitors. 

Essex, twelve miles from Westport, is a pretty village, 
delightfully located. A few miles north of this place al- 
most hidden from observation by overhanging trees and 
bushes, is the mouth of Bouquet River, a stream of great 
industrial value and interest, entering the lake at the 
foot of the long peninsula on the west shore, now called 
Willsboro Point — a charming summer resort. This was the 
site of the pioneer Gilliland's Colony, (whose history is so 
very pathetic) and the scene of Burgoyne's noted treaty 
with the Indians a dozen years later. 

Here settlement was commenced in 1765, under the auspices of Wil- 
liam GiLLiLAND, a wealthy, intellectual, energetic and estimable mer- 
chant of New York. His purchases in this locality, embraced nearly 
4000 acres, extending from the river (Bouquet) almost to Cloven Rock ; 
reached three to four miles into the interior ; and presented a superb 
lake frontage of more than six miles. Subsequently he bought other 
tracts on the lake, between Westport and Plattsburg, comprising many 
thousand acres ; forming altogether a princely domain. Gilliland at 
first designed to lay the foundation of a vast baronial estate ; and 
hence he sold no land, but leased it on the most favorable terms. 
Several miles of the lake shore were settled, mills were built and schools 
established. He held a justice's commission, and for many years was 



THE MANOR OF WILLSBOROUGH. 22 1 

the only judicial authority. The Revolution came, and with it, de- 
struction. Although Gilliland and his colonists ardently embraced the 
American cause, materially aiding Montgomery's advance in Canada, 
by furnishing provisions, and on the return of his shattered army, 
affording relief to the sick and wounded ; notwithstanding he assisted 
Arnold in the prosecution of his designs to the extent of his ability, yet 
in return for these kindnesses, by an arbitrary stretch of power, his 
dwellings, mills and stores were destroyed ; nearly reducing him to 
poverty. This splendid manor was wasted by both friends and foes ; 
and finally, when Burgoyne swept up Champlain like an avalanche, the 
ruin of the settlement was completed by the English army. Driven to 
despair, he petitioned Congress for relief, to which he was certainly en- 
titled ; but that body claimed to have no money to meet his losses. 
Shameless reward for generous, and patriotic services ! For sometime 
Gilliland was confined in New York City for debt ; but, regaining his 
freedom, he returned to his desolated colony, — the scene of his ill-fated 
enterprises, of his joys and his woes — and endeavored to retrieve his 
waning fortunes. Relinquishing all ideas of manorial greatness, he 
offered his lands for sale ; but new disappointments, adverse lawsuits 
and treacherous friends soon dissipated the remnant of his wealth and 
brought his existence to a miserable close. Becoming partially deranged 
by his misfortunes, he wandered into the wilderness and perished of 
hunger and exposure. And now nothing remains to remind one of the 
departed splendor or to commemorate the name of this noble but un- 
fortunate pioneer, except the town of Willsborough. — {^Dr. Hough in 
Fr, Gaz.) 

From a chasm near Port Kendall, a stream leaps 40 feet 
into Willsboro Bay. 

The four islands directly in front of Willsboro Pt., rep- 
resenting the cardinal points of the compass, were called 
by the English, "The Four Brothers;" and by the French, 
Les Isles des Quatres Vents, "The Islands of the Four 
Winds." Near this beautiful cluster the last desperate 
battle between Arnold and Carlton's fleets occurred, in the 
Revolutionary War. 

Nearly opposite, upon one of the highest peaks of the 
Green Mountains, will be observed a very striking object, 
which seems like the effigy of a reposing lion, carved on 
the imperishable rock. The French called the mountain 
Lion Couchant, "The Crouching Lion"; but it is now de- 
graded into the name of Camel's Hump. We now ap- 
proach Rock Dunder, which appears almost to interpose 
in the steamer's track. It is a dark, naked rock, rising in 
a perfect cone more than thirty feet above the water. Re- 



222 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

cent researches seem to identify it with the "Greek Rock 
Reggio," so prominent in the colonial archives, and accord- 
ing to the remote traditions of the Mohawks, a grand land- 
mark in past ages in the boundary line between their 
domains and the country of th« Algonquins or Adirondacks. 
They long preserved the story that a great chief — ages 
before the advent of the pale faces — named Reggio, was 
drowned at its base, and from him the rock and the lake 
were called Reggio, or Re-^i-och-ne. Just on the left is the 
light-house upon Juniper Island, and on the right hand 
Shelburn Bay, a long and narrow sheet of water extending 
four miles inland. Here is situated the harbor and ship- 
yard of the Champlain Transportation Company, where 
their steamers are built; and here their condemned hulks 
are collected, dismantled and left to decay. 

The fine stock-farm, and summer residence of Dr. W. 
Seward Webb are in the neighborhood. 

The elegant, spacious mansion of Col. LeGrand B. Can- 
non, occupying a conspicuous eminence immediately south 
of Burlington, commands particular notice. 

Burlington is one of the most beautiful and prosperous 
cities of New England, and its commanding position and 
great beauty are presented from the lake with peculiar 
advantage. Most of the streets are shaded by stately trees, 
and lined by many elegant edifices, embowered with trees 
and shrubbery. The "Van Ness," the "American," and 
the "Burlington" are the leading hotels. 

In the Green Mt. Cemetery, — which has a most sightly 
situation — lie the remains of Ethan Allen. His monu- 
ment (about 45 ft. high) is surmounted by a statue of the 
redoubtable hero of Ticonderoga. 

A short distance N. of the steamboat landing is the 
sumptuous club-house of the Lake Champlain Yacht Club. 
In the transit of ten miles between Burlington and Port 
Kent, the lover of nature will contemplate her works re- 
vealed in exquisite loveliness and in the wildest sublimity. 
The lake, studded with headlands and islands, expands on 
every side in the richest panorama. On one, the eye traces 
the outline of the Green Mountains half the length of 
Vermont, and on the other spread the Adirondacks, thrown 




STEAMER VERMONT, LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 




fW*--.Atte3 



BURLINGTON. PORT KENT. 



223 



into chaotic groups, with some of their highest summits 
lifted into the distant horizon. 

Douglas Bay lies on the left, and N. of Willsboro Pt. It 
was formerly called "Corlear's Bay," from the belief that, 
the distinguished philanthropist, Arent Van Corlear, was 
drowned in the vicinity. 

The Bay View House, at Port Douglas, is a lovely resort 
with picturesque environment. It is reached by D. & H. 
R. R. and also by steamer. Sojourners here should not 
fail to visit Buttermilk Falls; a charming spot not far away. 

A little farther N. is Schuyler's Island (Fr. ''Isle Chapon;') 
which at an early period was occupied as an encampment 
by Schuyler. 

Point Trembleau, on the main-land, is one of the few 
poetical names preserved from the French nomenclature. 
With this bold, rocky promontory terminates the most im- 
portant of the five mountain chains — the Clinton or 
Adirondack Range. 

The view from Port Kent is among the most beautiful 
and extensive upon the lake. The large stone mansion 
(copy of a French chateau), with massive pillars, stand- 
ing upon the elevated ground was the former residence 
of Elkanah Watson, and subsequently of his worthy de- 
scendant, the late Winslow C. Watson, the able historian 
of Essex County. The passage of fifteen miles to Platts- 
burg is crowded with objects of great historic interest. 
On the pine plain i ^ m. N. was the site of Amherst's brief 
encampment in 1759. The little island almost touching 
Valcour Island on the south is called Garden Island, from 
the tradition that it was occupied by the French and 
English naval officers for the cultivation of culinary vege- 
tables. At the southern extremity of Valcour, just in front 
of a tiny grass plat, lie the still perceptible remains of the 
Royal Savage, a large schooner of twelve guns, sunk in 
Arnold's battle. {Railroad from Port Kent to Ausable 
Chasm and Keeseville. ) 

While passing down the lake the attentive tourist may 
have observed what seemed to be a mere white speck, per- 
haps a score of miles away, perched upon the crest of a 
bold eminence rising abruptly from the western shore. On 



224 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

approaching nearer it gradually increased in size and finally 
assumed the grand proportions of a magnificent structure — 
the most conspicuous feature in a landscape of surpassing 
loveliness. This is Hotel Champlain, the summer-palace 
of the north. Its situation is simply superb. It stands on 
the summit of Bluff Point, 3 miles south of Plattsburg and 
within 40 rods of the station on the Delaware & Hudson 
Railroad. The place is rich in historical reminiscences. 
This lofty promontory overlooks Cumberland Bay, the 
scene of McDonough's victory in 1814 ; also the narrow- 
strait between Valcour Island and the main-land rendered 
famous by Arnold's naval engagement- in 1776. It com- 
mands a view of wondrous beauty and sublimity. By as- 
cending the central dome of the hotel, (125 ft. above the 
base, 325 ft. above the water, and 421 ft. above the level 
of the sea) we will be rewarded by one of the finest pros- 
pects the continent affords. And what a spectacle here 
greets the eye ! In the east is seen the Green Mountain 
group ; Mansfield towering majestically above all the 
others ; while spread immediately before us is the silvery 
sheen of Lake Champlain — 50 miles of water — embellished 
with numerous beautiful islands ; to the west are disclosed 
Mt. Lyon and Averill's Peak ; in the south-west are re- 
vealed the noble forms of Whiteface, Hurricane, Giant of 
the Valley, Dix's' Peak, the Gothics, Haystack and Mcln- 
tyre, and — uplifted above the heads of his princely com- 
peers, — the mighty crown of Tahawus, the chief of the Ad- 
irondack Range. Lovely intervales of fertile land are in- 
terspersed in this circuit of 300 miles, giving agreeable va- 
riety to the picture. 

The environing scenery is wild and romantic. A large 
portion of the grounds is occupied by a forest primeval, 
with its weird recesses, picturesque cliffs, and elevated pla- 
teaus. 

A model among specimens of colonial architecture is the 
stately edifice forming the subject of this sketch. Want of 
space precludes our entering into full details. Enough to 
say that in the construction, decoration and equipment of this 
vast establishment, nothing regarding comfort, luxury and 
grandeur was omitted. Every appliance known to archi- 



HOTEL CHAMPLAIN. 225 

tects for the modern furnishing and beautifying of a hotel 
was adopted. No effort was spared to render it capable of 
meeting the requirements of every traveler — even the most 
fastidious. Broad piazzas (20 ft. in width) offering cool re- 
treats and charming outlooks, nearly encircle the building. 
Here the visitor will sit and watch with peculiar interest 
the white-winged yachts, and the sumptuous steamers of the 
Champlain Transportation Company, sailing by. The 
house is supplied with the purest water ; the drainage and 
sanitary conditions are perfect, the service is excellent, and 
the cuisine is the best that experienced caterers, and the 
markets of Boston and New York can produce. A num- 
ber of large cottages, built and furnished in harmony with 
the hotel, are embowered in the pine grove near by. Hotel 
Champlain, with its annexes, provides for over 500 guests. 
It has extraordinary facilities for recreation. Among the 
many sources of varied diversions may be mentioned bowl- 
ing, billiards, lawn tennis, boating, and fishing, besides de- 
lightful bathing by the famous "Golden Beach of the Sing- 
ing Sands." A net work of terraced foot-ways, drive-ways 
and bridle paths, really bewildering in their intricacy, gives 
unusual opportunities for rambling and riding through 
scenes of varied beauty. So ingeniously are these avenues 
constructed that one may travel a dozen miles or more 
without leaving the grounds, consisting of 363^ acres 
The hotel and this natural park (whose interspersing lawns 
are brightened by fountains and flowers) are lighted by 
the Westinghouse system of incandescent electric lights. 
The roads leading in different directions are in excellent 
condition and afford easy communication with many inter- 
esting localities in the neighborhood. A perfectly equipped 
livery supplies guests with every needed conveyance. 

In accessibility, Hotel Champlain is unsurpassed by any 
summer resort ; being reached by cars and steamers over 
delightful lines of travel. Thus this remarkable combina- 
tion of attractions renders a soj urn at this caravanserai, a 
season of delight. It is largely patronized by people of 
social prominence of both America and Europe. It is 
under the personal supervision of Mr. O. D. Seavy, the ac- 
complished and nationally known manager of the celebrated 
Hotel Ponce de Leon, at St. Augustine, Fla. 



226 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Since the foregoing was written, in order to accommo- 
date the annually increasing number of visito^^s, a grand 
and imposing annex, 66 x 112 feet, 5 stories in height, con- 
taining 100 sleeping rooms, 4 parlors and 21 private bath- 
rooms has been erected. A covered passage-way, 100 feet 
long and 15 feet wide, with glass sides, connects this edifice 
with the main building. Midway of this, is an elegant 
dancing and amusement pavilion, 32 feet square. All the 
apartments are finished in natural wood and equipped in 
perfect consonance with the principal structure. On the top 
of the combined structures are 7 enormous water-tanks, 
each holding 2,000 gallons, to insure safety in case of fire. 
This establishment as completed, is truly the perfection 
of comfort and luxuriousness. (P. O., Hotel Champlain, 
N. Y.) 

Crab Island, (St. Michael of the French^ and known for a 
time as Hospital Island, from the fact that the wounded of 
both fleets in 1814 were placed upon it,) lies north of Val- 
cour. Between this island and the peninsula of Cumber- 
land Head is the theatre of MacDonough's victory in the 
warof 1812. A mile south of Plattsburg is noticed the 
modern government barracks. The old forts and canton- 
ment were located between the new barracks and the 
village. 

The trip between Plattsburg and Rouse's Point presents 
aspects unlike any other section of the lake, but is still 
peculiarly pleasant and beautiful. The steamboat landing 
is immediately contiguous to the depots of the Montreal & 
Plattsburg and Delaware & Hudson Railroads. Not 
stopping at this important and interesting village, (Platts- 
burg) to which we shall return^ we proceed with a chartered 
steamer on her route to Rouse's Point. After passing 
Cumberland Head, we leave the broad expansion of water, 
the rocky cliffs and stern promontories, but threading a 
more confined and placid channel, we are delighted with a 
view of the rich and luxuriant shores of the islands of Ver- 
mont and the main-land of New York, with the scenery of 
the remote mountains on either side softened by distance. 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. CHAZY LAKE. 227 

Cumberland Head, {.Cap Scrononion, of the French) three 
miles from Plattsburg, is a prominent landmark of the 
lake, and an interesting point in its annals. On the 
east stretches Grand Isle, the largest island in the lake, and 
one of the most fertile and lovely places in Vermont. 
Twelve miles beyond Cumberland Head is Isle La Motte. 
This island and Point Au Fer on the Western shore, a little 
north, were occupied as important military positions, both 
in the Colonial and Revolutionary War, Little and Big 
Chazy Rivers enter the lake a short distance south of Point 
Au Fer. The projection from the Vermont shore, nearly 
east of the north extremity of Isle La Motte, is Alburgh 
Tongue, distinguished by the French as Pomte Algonquin. 
The entrance to the beautiful Missisquoi Bay will be ob- 
served east of this point. Eight miles beyond Isle La 
Motte, on the eastern shore, is situated Windmill Point. 
The French erected at this place a large stone mill in 1731. 
This fact originated its name. Directly opposite is the vil- 
lage of Rouse's Point, and a mile beyond are the steamboat 
landing and the depots of the Montreal & St. John's, Dela- 
ware & Hudson, and Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain 
Railroads, where cars are also taken over the Central 
Vt. R. R., to the White Mountains, Boston, &c. {Wat- 
sons Essex Co , and Champlain Va//ey.li 

It sliould be stated that to the angler, this lake offers 
great opportunities. Indeed, no body of water in America 
furnishes better sport. The principal fishes, are black bass, 
Oswego bass, yellow and pike-perch and pickerel. It also 
affords superb resources for the yachtman. 

***** * ***** 

Parties traversing Lake Champlain or the Delaware & 
Hudson R. R , find Plattsburg a most available point of 
entrance to the woods. 

Before examining the principal routes from Plattsburg to 
the Great Forest, we will make one or two pleasant excur- 
sions to numerous Wilderness lakes, by private conveyance. 
Of these the drive to Clinton Prison at Dannemora (16 m.) 
over a plank road, and thence to Chazy Lake (5 m ,) is es- 
pecially agreeable. 



228 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The " prison in the woods," together with the adjacent 
village, occupy an eminence 1,700 feet high ; but the ascent 
is so gradual as to be hardly observable. From this eleva- 
tion is seen an embodiment of landscape loveliness, 
upon which the eye dwells with never-failing delight. In 
the east, the horizon is bounded by the Green Mountains 
looming up dim and blue ; Lake Champlain in queenly 
beauty stretching far away, cultivated lands richly diversi- 
fied, and the silver thread of the Saranac, gracefully 
fcurving through its emerald plains, cover the intervening 
space ; toward the S. W. the imposing architecture of the 
Adirondacks, rising in Doric sublimity from forests seem- 
ingly without limit, fill the remainder of the picture. A 
more glorious view is seldom witnessed even from moun- 
tain tops. 

The Clinton House at Dannemora supplies all the requi- 
sites to travelers. 

The road thence to Chazy Lake (pronounced Sha-zee) 
was constructed by the State and is in excellent condition. 
This important body of water (4 x i^) was named in 
honor of the unfortunate French nobleman, the youthful 
Sieur Chazy, who was murdered by the Indians in 1666, 
near where its outlet — Chazy R. — enters Lake Champlain, 
opposite Isle la Motte. Chazy L. is justly renowned for 
its attractiveness to the sportsman and to the admirer of 
nature's picturesque beauties.* Trout in satisfactory 
numbers and of superior quality, inhabit its deep pellucid 
waters, and scenery the most charming invests its environs. 
It is framed in a circle of majestic peaks — Rand Hill, 
rising with gentle slope from the pebbly beach; Mt's John- 
son, Ellenburg and others. The most important of these 
Mt. Lion — oftenest called Mt. Lyon — (whose peculiar form 
strikingly suggests the figure of the "king of beasts" 
in couchant attitude, as if about to spring upon his prey,) 
rises from the shores in proud conspicuousness. Its 
broad, level summit, isolated as it is, affords one of the 
finest points of view in the entire region. It is reached 

*Walls of Potsdam sandstone bordering tne shores, to large extent, 
present a most singular appearance. 



MT. LYON. SARANAC FALLS. 229 

by an easy route from the R. R. station at the head of 
the lake. Road 2 m ; trail ii/^ m. 

The route to Averill Peak (named from H. K. Averill, Jr., 
the distinguished surveyor of Plattsburg) i m. S. W., lies 
over Mt. Lyon and is reached thence by 40 minutes' walk. 
That also furnishes a remarkable view. 

The Chazy Lake House, located on the E. side, between 
Eagle and Half-way Point, is a delightful resort, affording 
every comfort and facility required by tourists. 

Bradley Pond, (unimportant) 2 m. W., is reached by 
wagon road; thence a road extends westward 3 m. to 
Upper Chateaugay Lake. 

The steam-yacht ^^]u]\a.," meets every train at Chazy 
Lake Station and conveys guests to and from Chazy Lake 
House. Distance, 25^ m.; fare, 50 cts. 

( // wt7/ be observed that Dannemora, Chazy and the 
Chateaugay Lakes are most conveniently visited via the 
Chateaugay Railroad.) 

The route of the tourist to Dannemora and Chazy Lake 
is a branch of the main road forking at Elsinore, a village 
about 1 2 m. W. of Plattsburg. This highway, passing through 
a romantic section of country, generally overlooks the 
Saranac R. and crosses several of its picturesque branches. 
At the Great Falls of the Saranac, near Russia and Saranac 
villages, 18 m. from Plattsburg, the scenery is especially 
replete with grandeur and varied beauty. Thence to Red- 
ford it is 4 m.; Clayburgli — within i^ m. of Saranac Forks 
— 2 m. Here the route, thus far an excellent one, divides ; 
following the two branches of the Saranac over poor roads. 
The N. Branch road, leads to Petersburg, }^ m.; thence to 
"Hunter's Home," (where Paul Smith first located,) situated 
on N. Saranac, 11 m. (within 1 5^ m. of Loon Lake House 
by the Malone road); J. M. Wardner's 9 m., at Rainbow 
Lake (3 X ^). 

By the S. Branch road from Saranac Forks to Silver 
Lake (3 x i), a beautiful sheet, it is 5]^ m. and the same 
distance to Union Falls by the divergent road, the two 
again uniting at Union Falls, 3 m. W. of the lake. Here 

20 



230 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the Saranac shoots with great velocity through a narrow 
gorge forming the cascade thus named— a most interesting 
spectacle. 

A short distance S. E. of Silver L , and about 8 m. N. W. 
of Black Brook, is Taylor P. (Crystal Lake), a picturesque 
loch, with sandy points and secluded, bays, lying in the 
shadow of Catamount Mt., (Ind., ^^Thi-pac). 

From Union Falls to Franklin Falls it is 8 m.; thence to 
Bloomingdale, 8 m. 



Two railroads extend from Plattsburg towards and into 
the Wilderness :— 



1. 

The Ausable branch of the Delaware & Hudson. By 
this railway to Point of Rocks, {Ausdble Station,) it is 20 m., 
where passengers will find stages in waiting to convey them 
to Keene Valley, 22 m. S., via Lower and Upper Jay; and 
to Lake Placid, 26 m. S. W., via Wilmington, and Wihning- 
ton Pass. {Later. Stages now 7'un only from Ausable 
Forks to Keene Valley, and to Bloomingdale, except on 
special order; none from Ausable Station.) 

From Point of Rocks, over a good plank road, to Ausa- 
able Forks, 3 m.; Black Brook, 4 m.;* French's Hotel, 11 
m.;f Franklin Falls, 3 m. (Franklin House. Travelers dine 
here or at French's); Bloomingdale, 8 m.; Lower Saranac 
Lake, 8 m. Total from Ausable Station, 37 m. From 
Bloomingdale it is 13 m. to Upper Saranac Lake; 9 m. 
to Paul Smith's, and 7 m. to Rainbow Lake. 

In this approach occasional glimpses are enjoyed of the 
gigantic forms of the Adirondack Range. 

*Fern Lake, (2 xl,) possessing considerate beauty, and many pickerel 
and gamy bass, lies about 2 m. N. E. of Black Brook. 

tWbiteface Mt. is ascended from French's. Carnages convey parties to 
within 2 m. of the summit. Total distance from the hotel, 6^ m. Fare for 
each person, the round trip, $2; guide for party, $3 extra. 



LOON LAKE HOUSE. 23 T 

The Chateaugay R. R. which terminates at Lower 
Saranac Lake (73 m.). This picturesque line of travel 
was built to give an outlet to the extensive beds of iron 
ore being worked by the Chateaugay Iron Co., at 
Rogersfield. (Lyon Mt.) It passes through some of the 
wildest and most romantic scenery this side of the Rocky 
Mt's.; and affords the easiest, speediest, and hence the now 
favorite mode of transit from Plattsburg to the Adiron- 
dacks. 

By this railway we reach the following famous resorts : 
Dannemora (171^ m.); Chazy Lake (285^ m ); Lyon Mt. 
(34 m.; Stage thence to Upper Chateaugay Lake, 3^ 
m); Loon Lake (54 m ; Stage to Loon Lake House, 3 m); 
Rainbow (60 m.; Stage to Rainbow Lake House, 3 m.); 
Bloomingdale Sta. (64 m.; Stage to Bloomingdale, 2 m.; 
Stage from Bloomingdale Sta. to Paul Smith's, 6 m.; to 
Saranac Inn, ii m.); Lower Saranac Lake (73 m.) 
(See pp. 206, 228). 

LOON lake house. 

This summer haunt, which suddenly sprang into exis- 
tence and public favor, is worthy of more than a passing 
notice. In 1878, an enterprising man of Essex Junction, 
Vt. — Mr. Ferd. W. Chase — discovered that a "forest re- 
treat" was lacking at Loon Lake, and decided to erect one 
there. Accordingly, in the fall of that year, he laid the 
foundation of his rustic lodge, and completed it in time for 
the season of 1879. This building (now a wing of the main 
hotel) constructed of hewn logs, two stories high, with 
verandas entirely encircling it, was placed on a command- 
ing plateau, 8 or 10 rods from the shore, on the south- 
eastern end of this beautiful lake. Mr. Chase's enterprise 
was rewarded by such success that the first season he was 
unable to provide for all who applied for entertainment, 
though the house could accommodate 100. But each sea- 
son since has found him with extensive additions to his 
buildings, enabling him to satisfy much better the demands 
of increasing numbers. The season of 1893 finds the 



232 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

capacity and desirability of this resort still further in- 
creased by the erection of a large annex, — an imposing 
structure of artistic style and proportions, — costing with its 
equipment, nearly $30,000. It is 100 ft. in length and 
finished in native oak throughout. A spacious veranda 
surrounds one story. It has 24 fire-places, is generally 
heated by steam and designed for winter^ as well as sum- 
mer occupancy. The rooms in the Loon Lake House, 
especially in the new structure, are large, high, well lighted 
and ventilated, and also decorated in admirable taste ; 
the furniture, — frequently elegant, — is all appropriate ; and 
in equipping the enH7^e establishment, — including several 
handsome and commodious cottages, — every attention has 
been paid to the pleasure and comfort of guests. The 
great experience of Mr. C. has made him familiar with the 
wants and wishes of his patrons. Thus all the appoint- 
ments, (including sanitary arrangements) are up to the 
highest standard. A mountain-spring furnishes an abund- 
ant supply of pure running water. The table is exception- 
ally excellent, affording remarkable variety. Connected 
with the premises is a superior farm that furnishes fresh 
eggs, milk and vegetables in abundance. Nearly every 
kind of out-door diversion, is provided for the enjoyment 
of visitors. 

Tents, hammocks, boats, guides, etc., furnished on 
reasonable terms. Post office, ("Loon Lake, N. Y."), and 
telegraph in the main house. 

The lake (2^ x ^) is of peculiar form, — the banks of 
its "narrows" approaching within 90 feet of each other, 
almost forming two separate bodies of water, an upper and 
a lower lake, — and is surrounded by a rich growth of green 
forest, with no marsh near to impair its attractiveness. 
The irregular, rocky shores, with a solitary picturesque 
island, render it exceedingly romantic; and the glistening, 
silvery beaches are a fitting inner frame to its many at- 
tractions. From the observatory of the principal structure 
we enjoy a magnificent prospect of the Green Mts. of 
Vermont and several of the lofty peaks of the Adironacks, 
including the far-famed Whiteface. This locality is of 
considerable elevation, furnishing persons suffering from 
" Hay Fever " with almost instant relief. To pleasure 



THE LOON LAKE DISTRICT. 233 

parties or invalids who would enjoy pure mountain air, fine 
scenery, shade-grounds in their natural state, and desire to 
pass the summer months at a retreat at once pleasant, 
retired and healthful, no Wilderness resort offers better in- 
ducements. Indeed, this extensive hostelry, with its ca- 
pacity for 500 guests, has become one of the best patronized 
of any in the Great Forest; and well merits its repute, as 
// stands second to none. 

Sportsmen will find several kinds of game abundant in 
the neighborhood, including deer, ducks, and ruffed grouse 
(partridges.) Speckled-trout fishing is excellent in various 
streams and ponds, easily reached. Loon Lake itself is 
famous for large fish. Three speckled trout were taken 
from it atone time in the fall of 1871, by Mr. A. Washburn, 
a noted hunter living near, weighing respectively, 3^, 4 
and 4^ lbs. Still this sheet is not overstocked with such 
"fellows." 

To Goldsmith's P. it is 4 m. by road; Elbow P., 4 m. by 
portage; Grass P., 3 m. (2 m. by boat); Plumadore P,, 8 m. 
(4 m. good road, remainder bad); Wolf P., 10 m.; Howe's 
P., I m ; Turner's P., 2 m.; Mountain P., 51^ m.; Buck P., 
65^ m.; Marsh P., 4^ m.; Otter P., i m.; Duck P., 7 m.; 
Beef P., 2^ m.; Pork Barrel P., 2>^ m.; Chub P., 2 m.; 
Catamount P., i^ m.; and Alder Brook, 4 m. 

Water Route from Loon Lake House to Wardners and 
Paul Smith's. 

Loon Lake, ii^m; outlet, i m.; portage, ^ m.; Mud 
P., ^ m.; river, i^ m.; portage, 5 rods; Round P., ^ m.; 
river, 2 m.; Lily Pad P., ^ m.; river, ^ m.; Rainbow 
Lake, 3 m.; river, % m.; portage to Wardner's, ^ 
m.; road, i m.; Jones' P., i}^ m.; outlet, ii^ m.; Osgood 
P., 2 m; portage to Paul Smith's, ^ m. Total, 171^ m. 

Loon Lake may be reached by livery from Malone (29 
m.), if any one prefers that tedious mode to railroad travel- 
ing. 

The Chateaugay Railroad offers the quickest and 
pleasantest route to Loon Lake from the east and south- 
east. Tourists arriving at Plattsburg on the D. & H. train 



234 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

in the morning, can reach Loon Lake in two hours, and 
Paul Smith's in about three hours by this line. 

At the famous resorts now reached by this route. New 
York morning papers are received the same day. 

The Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railway offers to 
tourists coming from the norths west and south the most 
delightful way of reaching the most important Adirondack 
resorts, over a wildly romantic and picturesque route. 
These two railroads form a junction at Loon Lake Station, 
3 miles from Loon Lake House, where the hotel stage 
meets every train. Fare, 75 cts. Travelers on the Chat- 
eaugay line, bound for Rainbotv Lake ( Wardners), Paul 
S7?uth's, Upper Saranac Lake (Saranac Inn), Tupper Lake, 
^c.^ should change, at this station, and take cars on the 
Adirondack c^ St. Lawrence R. R. 

Distances from Loon Lake. 

miles. 

To Malone, {ina Adirondack & St. Law. R. R.) 25 

" Malone, {via Ausable Forks Road) - - 29 

" Mountain View House, {via A & St. Law. R. R.) 12 

" Duane, {Ladd's) {via Ausable Forks Road) - 14 

" "Hunter's Home," - - - lyi 

" Ausable Forks, - - - ' - 23 

" Ausable Station, - - - - 26 

'* Ausable Chasm, - - - - 37 

" Plattsburg, {via Chateaugay R. R.) - 54 

" Chazy Lake " " " - - 25)^ 

" Lyon Mt. " " " - 20 

" Upper Chateaugay Lake, " - - 23^ 

'* Rainbow Lake, (Wardner's) {via A. & St. L. R. R.) 9 
" Paul Smith's (road, 18 m ; water, 171^ m.;) via 

Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. - 15^ 
" Lake Clear, (Junction Saranac Branch) - i6j^ 
" Lower Saranac Lake, {via Chateaugay R. R ) 19 
*' Upper Saranac Lake, {Bartletfs) {via Adiron- 
dack & St. Lawrence R. R.) - - 28^ 
" Upper Saranac Lake, {Saranac Lnn) (z//^ Adiron- 
dack & St. Lawrence R. R.) - 20 J^ 
" Lake Placid, {via railroad) - - - 28 
" Tupper Lake Junction, {via A. & St. L. R. R.) 34]^ 



WARDNER S. RAINBOW LAKE. 235 

From Loon Lake Hquse to Merrillsville, on the Ausable 
Forks road, it is 2% m. S.; thence to Vermontville, diver- 
ging from the main road and passing S. over Cape Mt., 5 
m.; Bloomingdale 3 m. Total, io>^ m. 

Wardner's forest home — the Rainbow Inn — is emi- 
nently calculated to answer the requirements of seekers 
after rest, health, sport or scenic beauty. It is emphatically 
desirable to those who would avoid the bustle and expense 
of the larger hotels; and people are becoming aware of all 
this, as each year brings an increased number of visitors. 
Situated in the immediate vicinity of a charming group of 
lakes and lakelets, (offering 12 miles of uninterrupted navi- 
gation,) and furnishing the best accommodations at the 
most moderate rates, it is not surprising that it is thus 
rapidly growing in public esteem. The table is supplied 
in a bountiful and substantial manner, (fresh eggs, milk, 
butter, and vegetables coming from the connecting farm,) 
not to name the various dainties that the forest and cities 
give; the rooms are neat, pleasant and home-like, and every 
reasonable comfort is afforded. Has capacity for 60 guests. 

Mr. Wardner and his brother Seth located at this place 
about 1850, when the region was an unbroken wilderness 
and almost as obscure as the interior of Patagonia. 
Perhaps, a score of bears and a thousand deer have been 
destroyed by his unerring gun within that period. His 
long experience in forest life, renders him a most suitable 
conductor of such an establishment. Nor should we omit 
to call attention to Mrs. Wardner's talent as a taxidermist, 
a most important matter to those desiring to have the 
trophies of their skill properly dressed and mounted. 

This locality is especially attractive to sportsmen, for in 
few places are the trout finer, larger or more abundant. 
The waters most noted for angling purposes are Rainbow 
L. (named from its shape) Jones P., Round P. (i;^ x i), 
Buck P. (i X ^), Lily Pad P. (i^ x >^), Elbow P. (j^ x ^), 
and Plumadore P. Besides these, there is excellent fish- 
ing in the N. Branch of the Saranac, from " Hunter's 
Home " to the head of the stream — about 3 m. above Rain- 
bow L. — and also in Jones Inlet. Nigger Brook, North 
Branch, Cold Brook, Rainbow L. and Round P. abound in 



ADIRONDACKS. 

superior " lakers " — frequently attaining enormous pro- 
portions, especially in the latter sheet. It was in Round 
Pond that the largest salmon trout on record was caught, 
reaching the extraordinary weight of 52 lbs. The Quack- 
enbush party of Troy were the lucky captors of this 
monster. This sheet has recently been styled " Lake 
KusHAQUA," (Ind.) and the station with this name, on the 
A. & St. L. R. R. is near the shores. Most of the lakes 
and ponds named, including Loon L., are linked together 
by the North Branch of the Saranac. Plumadore and 
Elbow Ponds flow into'Salmon R.; Jones' feeds Osgood P. 
and that Meacham Lake. (See pp. 186, 194). 

Rainbow Lake has been repeatedly restocked with trout 
within the last 6 years. 

In making the following excursions, we will visit, in detail 
nearly all the waters mentioned. 

Water Routes from Rainbow House to Hunter's Home and 
Loon Lake, ^c: — Path, i^ m. E.; N. Saranac R , i^ m.; 
Rainbow L., 3 m.; river, ^ m ; Lily Pad P. (a ///y- wreathed 
basin), y^ m.; river, 2 m; Round P, i^ m; road to 
Hunter's Home, 4 m. N. E. Total, 12^ m. Or the route 
can be varied thus : — Portage from Round P. around a 
dam, 5 r.; river, ^ m.; Mud P. (^ x }^), ^ m; river, Y2. 
m. to " Thatcherville;" thence road, 2 m. to Hunter's 
Home.* Total, 11^ m. River navigation rather difficult. 

From Mud P. pass up inlet i m. N.— with 80 r. portage — 
to reach Loon Lake. 

Carry from the river, just above Round P., ]4, m. S. E. 
to Buck Pond. 

Carry from Round P., >2 m. to Hope P. (5^ x ^); also 
carry from Round P., ^ m. N. W. to Mountain P. (i x ^). 

Clear P. (2 x %) is 4 r. N. of Rainbow L.; and 5^ m. N. 
of that is Loon P. (^ x >^). 

Square P. (^ x ^) is 4 r. N of Rainbow L. — just E. of 
Clear P. Carry over a steep ridge. 

Carry ^ m. S. E. from Lily Pad to Oregon P. (13^ x ^). 



*Himter's Home, an old-time resort, does tout little if any business now. 



PAUL SMITH S. 237 

Water Route from Rainbow House to Paul Smith's. 

Road S. W., I m.; Jones P., i 5^ m ; outlet, 1% m.; Os- 
good P., 2 m.; portage to Paul Smith's, % m. S. Total, 
6^ m. 

Distance by road from Wardner's to Paul Smith's, 6 m. 

To Barnum P. (i^ x ^), it is 5 m ; Grass P. (^ x %), 
II m ; Elbow P., 12 m ; Duck P. (i x ^), 14 m.; Plumadore 
P., 16 m. Barnum is reached via Jones and Osgood P. All 
the others via Loon L. (10^ m.) 

To Clear P., i m.; Loon P., 1% ^\ Square P., 31^ m.; 
Lily Pad P., 4^^ m ; Oregon P., 5 m.; Round P., 6% ra. 
(by road, 4^ m.); Buck P, 6^ m. (road 4^ m.); Hope 
P., 7 m ; Mountain P., 7^ m.; Mud P., 81^ m. 

Many of these waters are the resort of deer. Their situ- 
ation makes this apparent. Near the hotel is a strip of 
ground once burned over, but now covered by thrifty 
second growth, affording fine harbor for ruffed grouse and 
deer, and there rare sport is frequently enjoyed. It may 
well be imagined that the varied charms presented by this 
net work of glittering lakes thus beautifully interlaced, 
greatly enhance the fascination of sporting in their midst. 

Boats, guides, and supplies for camping out, are always 
obtainable here. 

Telegraph and Post office (Rainbow, N. Y.) in the house. 

It will be seep that this resort is very easy of access. 
The Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., has a station 
(" Rainbow Lake ") within two minutes' walk of the hotel. 

To Rainbow Station on the Chateaugay R. R. it is 3 m ; 
and Wardner's carriage will meet trains there if due notice 
has been given. 

From Rainbow House to Bloomingdale Village it is 7 m. 
by excellent road, whence it is 8 m. to Lower Saranac Lake. 
To Saranac Inn, via Ad. & St. Law. R. R. the distance is 
ii>^ m. 

"Paul Smith's," is a name that has become almost as 
familiar to the ears of the sportsman and the tourist 
as that of the "Adirondack Woods." To the initiated, 
it is always suggestive of beautiful scenery, luxurious 



238 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

quarters, epicurean meals and delightful hours. From the 
very beginning it has been a most fashionable resort ; com- 
manding the patronage generally of wealthy people from 
the large cities. The house, with its cottages, has a capaci- 
ty for 500 guests, and is a model of comfort and pleasant- 
ness. It is located on an eminence on the N. shore of the 
Lower St. Regis Lake, in the midst of an extensive pine 
grove, a dense forest stretching away on nearly every side. 
It is supplied with every modern convenience, including 
bath-rooms, barber-shop, etc.; also billiard-tables. 

An extensive livery stable, a telegraph and a post-office 
are connected with the house ; likewise a boat and guide 
building, affording accommodations for too boats and 
guides. Tents, blankets, and all the paraphernalia required 
in camp-life, also every variety of the choicest supplies, in- 
cluding numerous delicacies are procured here. To sum 
up, Paul Smith's is a synonym of all that is excellent in 
the line of entertaining the public. Such an establishment 
requires no extended notice ; its high reputation has long 
been made and continues to be fully maintained. (P. O. 
address, Paul Smith's Hotel Co., Paul Smith's, N. Y.) 

"Pol. Smith," of St. Regis. A copy of Dickens' "All 
the Year Round," for i860, contains an interesting article 
on the then primitive hunting grounds of the Adirondack 
region, in which this grand woodsman and now famous and 
popular landlord of St. Regis appears in the role of a guide, 
cook, etc. It refers kindly to his initial efforts in keeping 
a hotel, the many trials and difficulties he met and over- 
came, and the funny experiences of the writer in company 
with "mine host." We print from Forest and Stream that 
portion which refers to Paul's early beginning, and this the 
thousands of guests who have enjoyed his hospitality will 
read with pleasure, and with the perusal learn to respect 
their genial and indomitable host the more. We quote : — 

"Apollo's Smith was our guide on my first tramp among 
the Adirondack Mountains in New York. He is a famous 
fellow, Polios or "Paul" as he is called.* A tall athletic 
Yankee, with no superfluous flesh about him, raw boned, 

* Correct name : Apollo A. Smitli. 



THE ST. REGIS WATERS. 239 

with a good-natured twinkle in his blue eye, brimful of gen- 
uine Yankee humor ; he has no bad habits, and is, withal, 
the best rifle-shot, paddler, and compounder of forest stews 
in the whole region. Let me tell his last exploit. In 
Yankee parlance, he was "courtin' a gal," and in a strait to 
get married ; so he resolved to build him a hotel, and settle. 
He knew a little lake, or rather pond, on the middle branch 
of the St. Regis River suited to his purpose. There was a 
log shanty on it, with two springs close by ; it was in a part 
of the forest little hunted, and abounding in deer and 
trout, and it communicated directly with the great St. 
Regis Lake, and other ponds. The winter in those elevated 
regions is almost Arctic. In the month of January, 1859, 
he plunged into the forest with two lumbermen, took pos- 
session of the shanty, and began his clearing. The snow 
was five or six feet deep, and the cold intense. They 
felled the gigantic trees, pines, hemlocks, firs, and cedars, 
cut out beams, split shingles, and laid the foundation of a 
large house on the bank of the lake. The boards were 
sawn at a mill, down the- river. They cut out a road 
through the wilderness to the nearest point of a neglected 
military road, which traverses the St. Regis country from 
Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. During this time 
Smith, as he has told me, went a-courting every Sunday, a 
trifle of thirty niiles^ sometimes on snow shoes. He also 
went to New York and selected his furniture, besides visit- 
ing Boston. The house, a large frame building, was com- 
pleted and furnished, and Paul was married and settled 
before June." 

The erection of the elegant little Episcopal Church near 
the hotel, was largely due to the eff'orts and money of a 
munificent benefactor, Dr. E. L. Trudeau. 

Closely adjacent to the Lower St. Regis, and forming a 
beaded net-work around it, lie like so many gems, a score 
or more of exquisite little lakes and ponds, with their inlets 
and outlets, among which the Upper St. Regis, the fairest 
of them all, gleams and sparkles; the chief crown-jewel. 
These waters — mostly tributaries of St. Regis River — may 
all be visited from this " Wilderness St. James," on the 
same day; and embraced in the list, are Osgood, Jones, 
Spitfire, LT. St. Regis, Big Clear, Little Clear, Bog, Loon, 



240 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Little Duck, Long, Bear, Turtle, Little Green, Big Green, 
St. Regis, Big Long, Ochre, Fish, Rock, etc., Lakes and 
Ponds. 

Hence we hazard nothing in saying that Paul Smith's 
as a fishing and hunting locality, has few superiors; while 
as a wild- wood summer retreat, it has perhaps no peer; 
and taken all in all, it is as winsome a spot as ever charmed 
a traveler's eye or gladdened a sportsman's heart. 

Those adventurously inclined, may from this point, with 
boats and guides, visit the principal waters that begem 
this romantic region— the Saranacs, the Tuppers, Long, 
Forked, Raquette, Blue Mt. Lakes, etc.; pass up or down 
the sinuous courses of the numerous streams with which 
they are linked, and thus enjoy an excursion richly abound- 
ing in sylvan delights, over routes whose aggregate distan- 
ces would amount to hundreds of miles, without being 
compelled to abandon their boats except to traverse the 
short portages that intervene. But we are passing too 
hastily; these delightful routes should be taken up in de- 
tail and examined more leisurely; so we will return to the 
St. Regis House. 

Lower St. Regis Lake has features of interest we will 
not now pause to describe. It should be observed, however, 
that the shores are mostly low, and lack, to considerable 
extent, beauty and picturesqueness ; though St, Regis 
Mt. presents a fine picture, as viewed from this water. Its 
old-time favorite camping place was at "Peter's Rock," a 
rugged ledge projecting boldly from the mainland into the 
lake, and affording an admirable point for shore-fishing. 
It was so called from the famous Indian trapper, Peter 
Sabattis, who frequently in ancient days bivouacked by his 
camp fire, upon its sloping sides. 

Osgood Pond ^ m. N., as well as Jones' Pond i.^ m. E. 
of that, it should be remembered pay tribute to Meacham 
Lake. 

From Osgood P. carry i m. N. W. to Barnum P. which 
flows into Lower St. Regis Lake. . " 

Lying N. of Barnum P. is Mountain P. which supplies 
the St. Regis Lake House, (5 m. from there) with pure cold 
water. 



BAY POND. GREAT WINDFALL " REGION. 241 

Bay Pond, renowned for its many charms, is visited by 
passing down St. Regis River to Keese's Mills 3 m., and 
"drawing" thence 8 m. S. W.; or by following the river to 
the head of "Sixteen Mile Level," (9 m. from Smith's,) and 
carrying therefrom 2V2, m. S. W. As its name signifies, it 
is formed of three romantic bays, whose names and proxi- 
mate dimensions are as follows : South Bay (i x i^), North 
Bay (i x 5^), West Bay (^ x i^). Good springs are found 
here. The trout in this lake are of peculiar color. The 
Northern Adirondack R. R. crosses one of its narrows. 
Waters of Black or Deer P. enter from the N. 

Carry from Bay Pond i^ m. S. E. (blazed line) to reach 
Cat Pond (^ x ^), a pleasant sheet. Nice camping place 
near the inlet, by a cold spring. 

From Cat Pond a good portage leads 2 m. S. E. to Fish 
Pond (i x 3^), another handsome water and affording extra 
lake-trout fishing. This pond is also accessible by water 
(from Paul Smith's) via St. Regis Lakes, Spitfire, St. Regis, 
Ochre Ponds, etc. (See Nine Carry Rouie^ p. 245). 

Access is gained to Cranberry Pond (^ x Yz) by boat- 
ing down the outlet from Bay Pond 2 m. S. W. and carry- 
ing thence ^ m. N. W. Splendid "deering" in this vicinity. 

Passing down the stream 1 1/^ m. below the Cranberry 
carry, we reach Cranberry Rapids, which furnish superior 
trouting. (West St. Regis River..) 

Carrying from the Cranberry portage 3 m. S. W., East 
Pond (i X ^) is reached and we are rewarded by the very 
best of speckled-trout fishing. From that sheet a blazed 
line extends 3 m. N. E. to Cat Pond above named. 

Carry 3^ m. S. E. of East Pond to Big Long Pond. 
Portage cut out and crosses a spur of Long Pond Mt, 

Carry from East Pond 1 1^ m. S. W. to Windfall P.; 
thence about ^ m. S. E. to Dry Channel P.; thence about 
i^ m. S. E. to Big Pine P ; thence ^ m. S. E. to Flood- 
wood Pond. 

Little or West Pine P. lies ^ m. W. of Big or East Pine 
P., a sharp ridge separating them. This empties through 
"Pond with a Rock in it " into Rollins Pond, S. W. 



242 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Ledge Pond lies i ^ or 2 m. S. of East Pond ; and from 
that leads a blazed line i^ m. S. E. to Big Pine Pond. 

A trail leads from Big Long Pond W. to Windfall Pond. 
The outlet of this pond empties into McDonald Pond 
Stream (N. W.) and that flows into West St. Regis River 
Yi m. farther N. 

McDonald P. is 4 to 6 m. N. W. of Windfall Pond. 

Carry from McDonald P. to Elbow P., ^ m. N.; and 
thence to Little Rock P., ^ m. S. W. 

From McDonald P. a trail leads to Potter P., i m. S. W., 
and one from this to Jordan L. 3 m. S. W. (See p. 160.) 

Rock and Otter P's. are S. and S. W. of Potter Pcnd. 

From the N. W. shore of Windfall P. a trail leads i ^ 
m. W. to Willis P., passing N. of the "Great Windfall," (see 
p. 162,) and along the N. shores of Blue and Mud P. (or by 
boat across the latter). Thence it is only a few rods to 
Willis P. This sheet, from its shape and position, is well 
adapted to hunting. Deer abound in the vicinity of Willis, 
McDonald, Windfall, etc., Ponds, and wolves and cata- 
mounts are still occasionally heard. It is a wild and ro- 
mantic region. 

A large portion of this district is embraced by Vilas 
Preserve. The Northern Adirondack R. R. has a station 
at Blue Pond, whence it is 7^ m. E. by wagon-road 
through the woods to Saranac Inn. (See pp. 175-183.) 

Folingsby Jr. Pond, — 3 m. by road, or 5 m. by river N. 
W. of Keese's Mills (3 m. from Paul SmithV) — is admired 
for its beauty. It was named after Capt. Folingsby, a 
mysterious recluse of the Adirondacks. Good springs 
afford eligible camping locations here. 

Following a portage i m. N. W. we reach Quebec Pond 
(^ X ^), which is 2 m. S. E. of Madawasca P. (See p. 180). 

Three-fourths m. N. E. of Folingsby Jr. Pond is Mud or 
Slush Pond. 

From Keese's Mills it is 1 m. to the summit of Jenkins 
Mt.; view very fine. From the same point it is 3 m. (S.) 
by bridle path to the summit of St. Regis Mt. — the route 
passing by the two Spectacle Ponds, ^ m. from the "Mills." 
The following is a better route : — Taking boats at Paul 



MT. ST. REGIS. UPPER ST. REGIS LAKE. 243 

Smith's we pass up Lower St. Regis Lake, Spitfire Pond 
and Upper St. Regis Lake. Landing on the W. shore of the 
latter we carry lo r.; thence cross Upper Spectacle Pond 
and pass (r.) down its outlet 3 or 4 r.; and to the foot of 
Lower Spectacle Pond. (These ponds flow into St. Regis R.) 
From this point the enterprising ''Paul" has constructed 
a bridle path 4 ft. in width to the top of the mountain, a 
distance of 23^ m., and erected a sylvan cot near the sum- 
mit for the entertainment of parties desiring to remain 
over night. The scenic attractions unfolded at the crest 
are varied and sublime. The eye traverses a circuit of 
vast extent, and with the aid of a glass, the gleaming silver 
of half a hundred lakes and ponds is brought into charming 
display. The billowy expanse of a forest-ocean — one solid 
mass of boundless green, deeply furrowed by a countless 
multitude of proud-peaked shapes — sweeps away in ma- 
jestic beauty until lost in the distant horizon. 

Among the various excursions that may be made in the 
neighborhood, the drive to Meacham Lake House, 12 m. 
N. through a charming section of country, should have 
special mention. (See p. 186). 

The St. Regis Lake House is easy of access. To Bran- 
don, a station on the Northern Adirondack R. R., (starting 
from Moria, on the O. & L. C. R. R.) the distance is 7 m. 
N. W. {See water route from Blue Mt. House, St. Regis 
River ^ to Paul Smith's^ and pp. 180-182.) 

In the opposite direction it is 6 m. to Bloomingdale 
Station on the Chateaugay R. R. 

To Paul Smith's station, on the Adirondack & St. 
Lawrence R. R., (leading from Malone, also on the O. & 
L. C. R. R., and only 14 m. E. of Moira,) it is 4 m. E. 

Stages meet every train at each of these stations; fare, 
75 cts. 

From Paul Smith's station to Saranac Inn, via A. & St. 
L. R. R., it is 10 m. There are two other modes of access 
to that resort from St. Regis Lake House; one by carriage 
over a good road (distance, 17 m,,) and the other with 
boats by the following routes: — Lower St. Regis Lake, i>^ 
m. Spitfire Pond (very pretty, with sandy shores, but 



244 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Spiteful) I m.; Upper St. Regis Lake (2^ x 3/Q 2 m. The 
latter is an enchanting water, unique in form, spangled 
with picturesque islands ("Birch," "Averill," "One-tree " 
and " Burnt,") and mirroring upon its placid surface several 
encircling summits — Mt. St. Regis the chief of all. Its 
forest-draped banks, also those of "Spitfire," are studded 
with beautiful cottages, charmingly situated, generally 
expensive, and frequently ideals of architecture. 

The three lakes just named, are linked together by short 
winding inlets or narrows. At the Upper St. Regis a choice 
of two routes is presented : — one via Lake Clear, and 
the other via St. Regis Pond, the "Chain," and Little 
Clear Pond, etc. 

1. 

The portage {1% m.) to Lake Clear, is called the "St. 
Germain Carry,"* and horses, for the convenience of 
parties passing over it, are kept here by a resident whose 
house stands on the shore of the lake. Transportation 
over carry, Sr.50 per load. (The hotel named herewith 
may now perform the same service.) 

Near the end of the carry will be found Rice's Mountain 
View House, a quiet and pleasant resort, offering a fine 
prospect of Whiteface, Tahawus and other stately pinnacles; 
also first class accommodations for 100 guests. Daily stage 
from here to Lake Clear station, on A. & St. L. R. R., i^ 
m. A branch railroad, extending to Saranac Village (5^ 
m.), diverges at this point, (" The Junction "), enabling 
tourists to visit that place and also Lake Placid, via the 
Saranac & Lake Placid R. R. (9 m.) without changing 
cars. 

The waters of Lake Clear (formerly known 'as "Big Clear 
Pond ") are of crystalline purity, and exceedingly cold. Its 
shores are bold and rocky and the scenery encompassing 
it is of considerable interest. Its shape is nearly circular 
(2 X 2). A carry extends from the W. side to Little Clear 

* St. Germain (pronounced san-ger-mo) derived its name from an old ec- 
centric half-Tbreed wlio formerly dwelt in a rude hut at tbis place. 



PAUL SMITH S TO SARANAC INN. 



245 



Pond, about 2 m. S. W. Crossing Lake Clear, the route 
lies thence down its crooked outlet, S., 4 m. to U. Saranac 
Lake, with a portage at the commencement of less than ^ 
m. around a dam and rapids. The stream is now con- 
siderably obstructed and not easily navigated. Thence a 
portion of the head of the lake (ij4 m.) is crossed to reach 
S.iranac Inn. 

Travelers will usually prefer to take cars or carriage at 
Lake Clear for Saranac Inn, over a more direct and less 
tedious route. Distance, 3 m. 



2. 

From S. W. shore of LT. St, Regis Lake, carry 6 r. S. W. 
to Bog Pond (10 acres), interesting only as a deer resort; 
thence 5 r. over " Paul Smith's plank walk," to Bear Pond 
(40 acres), with golden beaches, two pretty islands, and 
charming surroundings ; thence 4 r. to Turtle or Middle 
Pond (10 acres); thence 40 r. to Little Long Pond (200 
acres), whose bays, points and several islets display great 
picturesqueness; thence 50 r. to Little Green Pond (30 
acres), one of the clearest gems that sparkle in the Wilder- 
ness ; thence 15 r. to St. Regis Pond. Good camp here. 

These little lakes are fed by springs, their waters being 
cold, fresh and pure. They have no visible connection 
with each other, but are doubtless linked together by sub- 
terranean streams. 

St. Regis i^d?/z^ covering about t,ooo acres, is a bewitch- 
ing, mount-encircled mere, interspersed with numerous 
forest-covered islands, and is as wild as when the tawny 
Indian rippled its surface in his bark canoe. St. Regis 
Mountain to the N., heaves his dark hulk in the air, and 
many other peaks, frown down upon its waters. 

A passage of i m. down the outlet of St. Regis P. (W.) 
takes us into Ochre P. (60 acres), deriving its name from 
the numerous beds of ochre found in the vicinity. By 
passing down the outlet of this sheet 2 m. (W.), or carrying 
about the same distance, we may reach Fish P. (75 acres), 
which connects, by navigable stream, with a pond of 5 



246 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

acres nearly adjoining, where wonderful trouting has been 
enjoyed. (See p. 241). 

Resuming the tour, we pursue our way across St. Regis 
P. and carry S. Yi m. to Little Clear Pond,* another ex- 
quisite lakelet of singular shape, with waters of crystal 
clearness, hemmed in by mountainous elevations; thence 
ii^ m. S. to Big Green Pond (^ x i^); thence 50 r. S. W. 
to Spring Pond, and thence pass down the short outlet 
to Upper Saranac Lake. 

This course through the " Braided Lakes " is called the 
"Route of the Nine Carries." With light baggage and 
experienced guides, the trip over it can be made in about 
4 hours. 

Distance from Paul Smith's to Saranac Inn, by either 
route, about 10 m. In making the round trip, it may be 
agreeably varied, by going one way and returning the other. 

Bloomingdale, it will be noticed, is a prominent point on 
several converging avenues to the Adirondacks. To this 
place travelers starting from Port Kent, — sometimes from 
Plattsburg — en route for Paul Smith's, Rainbow Lake, Up- 
per and Lower Saranac Lakes, occasionally pay tribute. 
Formerly 8 or 10 stages arrived here daily on their way to 
these different localities, connecting by excellent carriage 
roads. But the advent of the railway has made a material 
change; doing away with much of the tedious staging 
hitherto necessary. The village is pleasantly located near 
the forest, among hills, lakes and streams, within a few 
miles of Whiteface Mt. — that isolated pyramid rising ma- 
jestically in full view. 

About 2 m. S. E, of the village is Moose Pond {i}4x }() 
with rock-girded shores, and framed in by Moose Pond 
Mt. and other densely wooded heights. It abounds in both 
lake and speckled trout. One m. from that is a small 
sheet called Grass Pond, charmingly situated and also 
liberally supplied with trout. Saranac River passes within 
^ m. of Bloomingdale and affords good fishing; and the 
same may be said of three or four little brooks flowing 

* On Little Clear P. (450 acres) is located the State flsli hatchery ; and this 
sheet has heen rechristened Lake Brandon after the township in which it is 
located. 



THE VILLAGE OF SARANAC LAKE. 247 

through or near the place. The drives in the neighbor- 
hood are varied and delightful, offering rich displays of 
landscape loveliness. Taken altogether it is a pleasant 
resort for those wishing to spend a few days of rural life 
within the precincts of the Adirondacks. 

The Crystal Spring House, a commodious hotel, with 
pleasant rooms, bathing facilities, excellent table, and care- 
ful attention to the traveler's needs, has won an enviable 
reputation. It is supplied with water from one of the best 
springs in the region. It receives 50 guests. Carriage to 
Bloomingdale station, on the Chateaugay R. R., (2 m.) 
25 cts.; to Paul Smith's station, on the Adirondack & St. 
Lawrence R. R., {4}4 m.) $1.00. 

The Mountain View House, of about equal capacity, 
also offers good accommodations, at moderate rates, and a 
free ride from the Chateaugay station. 

From Bloomingdale to " Baker's " it is 6 m ; Saranac 
Lake Village, ^ m.; Lower Saranac Lake, i^ m. Total, 
8 m. The road commencing as far back as Franklin Falls, 
lies along the stately Saranac River, which is almost con- 
stantly in view, thus rendering the scenery very interesting. 

We have partially described the old-time stage route 
from Ausable Station to Lower Saranac Lake. But the 
completion of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence, and of 
the Chateaugay Railroads to this point, has revolution- 
ized staging to a large extent, ard rendered the very /zear^ 
of the Adirondack Region conveniently accessible. Invalids 
especially, seeking the benefit derived from a sojourn in 
the Wilderness, will hail this information with delight. 

The Village of Saranac Lake, lying on Saranac 
River, and i;^ m. E. of the N. end of Lower Saranac Lake, 
is a flourishing town, whose rapid growth is mostly due to 
the reputation it has made as a health resort, and to the 
business that the great hotels and the railways have 
brought. Three lines start from this point: — The Chat- 
eaugay; the Saranac & Lake Placid;* and the Saranac 
Branch of the Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. In 



* Those extremely popular summer resorts, Lake Placid and Mirror 
Lake, now readied Dy railroad from Saranac Lake Village, will oe fully 
described under liead of ''Route Twenty-flfth." 



248 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

accessibility, therefore, it is unsurpassed. The village dis- 
plays diversified styles of architecture — ranging from the 
humble, though neat habitation of the guide, (numerous 
famous ones dwelling here) to the costly residence of the 
man of wealth. It possesses many of the advantages en- 
joyed in the large cities, including the telephone and 
tel'egraph, daily mails, churches, schools, a public library, 
stores, water-supply, etc. Environing the town are gently 
rising hills, overshadowed by an amphitheatre of majestic 
peaks, with smiling valleys interspersed. The salubrity of 
the air, its elevated, yet sheltered situation, its attractive 
scenery, the opportunities it offers to sportsmen, and the 
superiority of the establishmxents here and in the vicinity, 
render it a most agreeable place for a long sojourn. 

The village hotels are of excellent character, and satisfy 
every reasonable requirement. Of these the Berkeley House 
(capacity, 100) is the most important. Its table and man- 
agement have long borne good reputation ; but to comply 
with the demands of increasing patronage, it has recently 
been enlarged, remodeled and greatly improved. Steam 
heat, open fire-places, electric bells, bath-rooms, and bil- 
liard parlor, are among its modern appointments. Dairy 
products and fresh vegetables are supplied by the hotel 
farm. Open all the year. 

Riverside Inn, receiving about 80, is also entitled to 
high recommendation. It is heated by steam, lighted by 
electricity, and encompassed by several spacious verandas. 
The rooms are large and richly furnished. Bathing and 
other conveniences will be found on every floor. It has 
perfect drainage system, a billiard room and a lawn tennis 
court. The table is excellent, being largely supplied by 
the Riverside Inn farm. 

Linwood Cottage, entertains 30 guests, in satisfactory 
style. Those preferring the greater quiet and lower prices 
of private boarding houses, will find many of them scattered 
through the town. 

THE ADIRONDACK COTTAGE SANITARIUM 

Has proved to be one of the most wholesome and desirable institutions 
of its kind in this countrj'. The Essex County Republican gives the 
following well related history of this establishment ; 

" The Adirondacks are fast becoming a winter as well as a summer 



THE ADIRONDACK COTTAGE SANITARIUM, 249 

resort, a condition of things chiefly attributable to the experience, 
example and efforts of Dr. E. L. Trudeau. Encouraged by a fortunate 
experience in his own case, and believing that what had been done for 
himself could be done for others, he conceived the idea of a summer 
and winter heallh resort in the wilderness, where people in moderate 
circumstances, in the first stages of consumption, could have all the 
advantages for recovery which he had himself enjoyed. Dr. A. L. 
Loomis, of New York city, and other prominent gentlemen, who had 
experienced the benefits of the Adirondack climate, were found ready 
to co-operate with Dr. Trudeau, and glad to contribute liberally to- 
ward the founding and support of such an institution ; and late in the 
year 1884 the Adirondack Cottage Sanitaiium was organized. The 
following year fifteen acres of land were bought, on an elevated but 
well sheltered plateau, about one mile and a fourth north of Saranac 
Lake Village, some two hundred feet above the valley, and nearly two 
thousand feet above tide, commanding a splendid view of the moun- 
tains on the south and east. A large main building, three cottages and 
outbuildings were erected, and the establishment was opened for pa- 
tients in May, 1885. Since then constant additions and improvements 
have been made, so that the buildings embraced in ihe Sanitarium now 
number seventeen, including the main structure surrounded by a half 
moon of sixteen cottages — all planned and finished with a view to a 
harmonious combination of the whole. One of its most attractive 
features is the handsome pavilion, erected for exercise and amusement. 
This is open on all sides, but enclosed with glass in the winter. The 
cottages are models of beauty, cleanliness and attractiveness, calculated 
to accommodate from two to four patients, comprising three or four 
rooms, the central one having a large open fire-place. They are all 
provided by private subscriptions, those who contribute having the 
privilege of building the cottage themselves, according to the plans 
adopted by the Association, or paying the money over to the directors, 
with instructions for them to build. We think the latter plan is 
adopted, as the more economical, a cottage being built of such dimen- 
sions as the amount contributed will allow, whether $500 or $2,500, ac- 
cording to the liberality of the donor. These cottages are kept open 
the year round, being thoroughly warmed in the coldest weather. Even 
in winter, sometimes when mercury is below zero, the patients — warm- 
ly clad in heavy garments — spend most of the hours of daylight in the 
open air ; those who are strong enough riding or tramping through the 
woods, leading all in winter pleasure and sport ; others, too feeble to 
do so, sitting in easy chairs on the verandas, wrapped in furs and blan- 
kets, with hot bricks or soapstones at their feet, inhaling the pure ozone 
and enjoying the bright sunshine. The expense at this institute, with 
medical treatment, is only $5.00 per week, which it can readily be con- 
jectured will scarcely pay running expenses. It is under the very 
capable superintendence of Mrs. Julia A. Miller. The trustees are Ed- 
ward L. Trudeau, M. D., Alfred L. Loomis, M. D., Charles M. Lea, 
C. F. Wicker, M. D., Daniel W. Riddle, George C. Cooper and W. H. 
Penfield. Dr. Loomis, Dr. Trudeau and Dr. Wicker give their serv- 
ices free of cost to all patients. The Sanitarium is developing into a 



250 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pretty and picturesque village, that now bears more of the aspect of a 
fashionable resort than a mere health institution. 

THE ADIRONDACKS AS A WINTER RESORT. 

" At this season of the year the grandeur and beauty of the scene, as 
witnessed from the Sanitarium, is seldom surpassed The view is 
scarcely less lovely beneath a winter sky than when clothed in summer 
verdure. Mountain and valley, placid river and snowy plain, the bare 
branches of giant trees tossed heavenward by the fierce winds, or gently 
waved by softer breezes, the evergreens standing like sentries at their 
post, whose duty will not permit them to doff their summer array, which 
they keep to give color and warmth to the scene ; all these form a pic- 
ture never to be forgotten. Where could another such place be found 
for the purpose ? They did wisely who located the Adirondack cot- 
tages for the relief and cure of pulmonary diseases in this charming 
spot. How great the results have already been. How many have gone 
out from this retreat to useful, happy lives ; lives prolonged many years 
by the benefit received from the healing of Natui-e, aided by the best 
medical advice, and the attention given to the small details of out- door 
and indoor life, which go far to stay the progress of pulmonary troubles. 
They go back to the conflicts of life with a better knowledge of what is 
required to retain the health regained. The great importance of pure 
air, out-door exercise and the like will scarcely be overlooked by those 
who have been so thoroughly drilled in them as have the patients 
at the Sanitarium, Honor to those who have spent so many years in 
study and practice which have made the success of this establishment 
possible, and may they long live to see its increasing usefulness. 

" The effect of Dr. Trudeau's making the Adirondacks his home, and 
the establishment of the Sanitarium for the treatment of consumptives 
all the year round has directed popular attention to the Adirondacks as 
a winter home. The building of the beautiful hotel Ampersand at 
Saranac Lake, to be kept open the whole year, is no doubt the direct 
result of of the growing demand for first-class accommodations for winter 
guests; and in Saranac Lake Village the keeping of fashionable winter 
guests has become an important business, while all about on the hill-sides 
and other commodious localities may be seen substantial and expensive 
residences, built and being built by weallhy people from the cities who 
contemplate spending the remainder of their lives in this health giving 
region. No doubt in time this same condition of things will extend to 
all parts of the Adirondacks; and the time is hastening when it will not 
bear the deserted appearance in the winter season that is usually wit- 
nessed at popular pleasure resorts." 

Lower Saranac Lake (Ind., "Lake of the Clustered 
Stars") is 6 m. in length with an average width of i^m. 
As the tourist threads his way through the intricate chan- 
nels of its numerous islands (fifiy-two in all ; " Eagle," ^ 
m. long, the largest),* and passes its winding shores and 

*A number of these islands are small, and masses of rock ; others are well 
clothed with forest. 




P0> 







A 






LOWER SARANAC LAKE. MARTIN's. 



251 



singular bays, its striking points and jagged headlands, the 
massive bulwarks of the Adirondacks frequently in view, 
he cannot fail to admit that this sheet of water possesses 
many picturesque attractions. Whiteface and McKensie 
in the N. E., Seward and Ampersand at the S., Marcy, Mc- 
Intyre and many "lesser lights " to the S. E., and the Tup- 
per Lake Mountains in the S. W., dominate the scene. It 
is so thickly studded with clustering islets near the middle 
of the lake, as to nearly conceal what is termed "Cluster 
Bay " — these forming a braided circle around that portion 
of the water, which seems like a separate tiny lake replete 
with romantic beauty. On the W. side, near the foot, 
there is a curious rocky promontory jutting abruptly into the 
lake, called " The Hedgehog," from whose elevated summit 
a grand prospect of the most fascinating scenery is enjoyed. 
But the comeliness of the landscape is sadly marred by the 
ravages of the many extensive fires that have swept through 
the forests in this section. It is said that the echo of one's 
shout, at some points on the lake, repeats itself 20 times, 
distinctly enough to be counted. 

One and one fourth mile from the village, on the eastern 
shore of Lower Saranac Lake, at the head of a beautiful 
bay, stands the Saranac Lake House, formerly styled 
"Martin's," one of the far-famed gateways to the Wilder- 
ness, and a most desirable tarrying place for all in quest of 
health or sporting recreation. From a rude beginning, 
with its many enlargements, it has developed into a pic- 
turesque structure of great proportions. It is nearly sur- 
rounded by broad verandas offering 1,000 feet of prome- 
nades. The rooms, large, airy, single and in suites, are 
furnished in accordance with perfect taste, neatness and 
convenience; and while occupying themi one may enjoy 
most of the comforts of " The Windsor " or " Fifth Ave- 
nue," together with all the rare and dainty viands the 
region yields ; at the same time commanding an exquisite 
view of the varied beauties that lake, mountain and forest 
ever give. Electric bells, large open fire-places in the 
office, dining-room and parlors, bowling alley and billiard 
rooms are included in the recent improvements. Sanitary 
plumbing and complete drainage prevail. The house is 
supplied with pure spring water; the tables with the 



252 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

choicest dairy and vegetable products by the connecting 
garden and farm. It has telegraphic communication, daily 
mails and New York papers, a well equipped livery, and a 
general store, furnishing all kinds of supplies needed for 
the camp. Lovely rambles are enjoyed in the charming 
grove of evergreens fringing the water but a short distance 
away. Varied out-door diversions are afforded, that in- 
clude driving, boating, croquet and lawn tennis. 

Wm. F. Martin, for upwards of 30 years, was proprietor] 
of the noted hostelry, whose reputation he made and which 
has been more than maintained by the present proprietor, 
Milo B. Miller. Like Paul Smith, Wardner, Baker and 
Bartlett, Martin was a veteran among pioneers ; a famous 
sportsman as well as landlord, and could throw a fly or 
secure a deer with a skill equal to that of the most finished 
disciple of Izaak Walton, or the fabled Nimrod. He passed 
away Oct. 3, 1892. 

The Saranac Lake House receives 300 guests. Concord 
coaches meet every train at the stations ; fare 5octs. (P. O. 
Saranac Lake, N. Y.) 

The Algonquin is delightfully situated on an eminence 
half-a-mile S. of the Saranac Lake House, commanding a 
noble view of lake, forest and mountain scenery. This 
fine hotel is replete with modern conveniences. Large, 
high and well ventilated rooms, appropriately furnished ; 
electric bells ; open fire-places ; spacious balconies ; pure 
spring water; large wall tents, with carpeted floors, con- 
veniently near; and the best of sanitary arrangements are 
among its desirable features. 

The table in all its details deserves the highest praise. 
The connecting farm furnishes abundantly the choicest 
dairy and vegetable supplies. The grounds, with a grand 
water-frontage of ^ of a mile, embrace many acres of ver- 
dant lawn, interspersed with flowers and shrubbery, and 
are prettily fringed with evergreen trees. Among the vari- 
ous amusements afforded should be named croquet, lawn 
tennis, boating, and rambles on the ground and through 
the surrounding woods. Orchestral music for dancing is 
furnished tri- weekly. The hotel livery offers every suit- 
able conveyance for riding. 



LOWER SARANAC LAKE. HOTEL AMPERSAND. 253 

The proprietor, John Harding, was an apt pupil of the 
great master, Paul Smith, and prides himself on his ability 
to provide for the wants of sportsmen and the traveling 
public. The Algonquin 4-horse coaches meet all trains at 
the stations, i^ miles distant. Fare, 50 cents. 

Telegraph and post-ofifice (" Algonquin, N. Y.,") in the 
house. 

On the sloping heights at the northern end of the lake, 
nestling in the foliage of the sweet-scented pine, balsam 
and hemlock, brightened by the sugar-maple and the silver- 
birch, stands Hotel Ampersand, the " Queen of the Tro- 
sachs." This grand establishment is elevated 5a feet 
above the water and commands a magnificent view of this 
island-gemmed inland sea with the adjacent mountains, 
whose most conspicuous figure is the stately tower from 
which the house derived its name. From the spacious 
piazzas in the summer-time a delightfully animated scene 
may be witnessed. The surface of the lake is then dotted 
with every variety of small craft, from the swift steam- 
launch glittering with gay colors, and the flying white- 
winged yacht, to the graceful little shallop peculiar to the 
Adirondack waters. This hotel is provided with all the 
appliances of a modern resort. Among the adjuncts are 
an elevator; electric bells; steam heat; gas illumination; two 
large fire-places in- the main office ; fire-places in abgut 60 
of the apartments ; general bath-rooms; many private bath- 
rooms ; reading, writing, smoking and card-rooms ; men's 
and ladies' billiard parlors ; ladies' writing-room ; elegant 
public and private dining-rooms; barber shop; guide- 
rooms ; sumptuous parlors ; luxurious equipment ; broad 
verandas extending the length and width of the house ; 
several commodious cottages ; a large annex building for 
athletic and amusement purposes ; a general store, furnish- 
ing complete camping outfits ; telephone; telegraph; and 
post-office ("Ampersand, N. Y."). 

The cuisine and service are unexcelled. From the "Am- 
persand Farm " the usual supplies are obtained, and every 
delicacy attainable in the markets of the great cities will 
be found on the table. Pure water and thorough sanitary 
arrangements are included in the appurtenances. Music 



254 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

every afternoon and evening is furnished by a select or- 
chestra. 

The beautifully ornamented and park-like grounds pre- 
sent a combination of lake-side and woodland charms not 
often surpassed. There various means of diversion are 
offered, including games in the ball-field and lawn-tennis 
court, and delectable wanderings under the trees, where at 
convenient intervals comfortable seats in the leafy shade 
will be found. 

Many delightful excursions by boat or carriage may be 
.made in the neighborhood. Hotel Ampersand has already 
become famous as a winter resort, especially for those af- 
flicted with consumptive tendencies. In that season of the 
year the verandas are enclosed in glass. Its faultless man- 
agement has won the highest encomiums of its numerous 
patrons. Upon the whole, this is doubtless cne of the 
most important and palatial of all the mountain hostelries, 
and is as complete as the most exacting could demand. It 
receives 300 guests. 

Tally-ho coaches connect with every train at Saranac 
Lake Village, i m. E. Fare 50 cts 

There are many interesting places of resort within easy 
reach of Saranac Lake, to which we will introduce the 
sporting traveler. 

Colby Pond, a lovely lakelet (i>^ x ^) lies y^ m. N. of 
the lake and near Hotel Ampersand. It is crossed by the 
A. & St. L. R. R. on tressel-work 1000 ft. long. 

Macauley Pond is connrcted with "Colby " by a carry 
of 2 m. W. ; length ^ m. This sheet is the rendezvous of 
deer. 

McKensie's Pond (i^ x ^), about 3 m. E. of the lake, 
is reached by road and path, via the village. 

Ray Brook, a branch of Saranac R., is visited via the 
village ; also, by descending the outlet (Saranac R.) which 
departs about midway the length of the lake. En route, 
we pass by the mouth of Rogers Brook (r.), — affording good 
sport — ,and through Millers P., an expansion of the river; 
Ray Brook entering here, on the r., near the foot.* 

*At tlie village of Saranac Lake, another outgrowth of Saranac River, form- 
ing a sheet of considerable heauty, has just heen christened Lake Flower, 
in honor of the Governor of New York, wUo is a strong advocate for the 
preservation of the forest. 



RAY BROOK HOUSE. AMPERSAND POND (p. 256). 255 

The Ray Brook House has a pleasant situation within a 
few rods of the famous trout-stream that furnishes its 
name, and is four m. from Saranac Lake, by road or rail. 

Duncan Cameron, the proprietor (an accomplished sports- 
man), is the owner of nearly 2,000 acres hereabouts, wa- 
tered by this shady rivulet. Therefore it is carefully pro- 
tected and reserved for the exclusive use of his guests. As 
it has been repeatedly stocked with fry, it still affords the 
old-time sport In fact it teems with trout, and when wa- 
ter, wind and season are favorable a skillful fisherman may 
capture his "pound a minute until he has his backload." 

Ray Brook P., an outgrowth of Little Ray Brook (a few 
rods from the house), offers good fishing and safe boating, 
and is a favorite resort of ladies and children. 

Highland Lake (heretofore known as McKensie's Pond) 
lies i^ m. N. of the hotel. This wild and secluded water 
is embosomed in mountains (Mt. McKensie, or Sugar Loaf, 
the most prominent), and presents an entrancing picture. 

The Ray Brook House is an excellent hotel, bearing a 
high reputation. The rooms are large and well equipped ; 
not gaudily, but with an eye to comfort and convenience. 
The house is supplied with pure spring-water; the table 
with the fresh products of the adjoining farm and with 
brook-trout during the entire season. The usual out-door 
amusements are enjoyed on the handsome grounds : cro- 
quet, lawn-tennis &c. It is a quiet and home-like resort, 
receiving 50 guests. The place affords an admirable sur- 
vey of Sewaixi, Ampersand, McKensie, Santanoni, The 
Gothics and other mountains. 

Telegraph and post-office ("Ray Brook, N. Y.") in the 
hotel. Two daily mails. Camp supplies and conveyances 
are always obtainable here. The station on the Saranac 
& Lake Placid R. R, is but a few rods away. Carriages 
free. (See Lake Placid.) 

Lonesome Pond (i>^ x i^), one of the most beautiful in 
the region, is visited by rowing up Saranac Lake 2 m., 
landing on E. shore at head of Lonesome Pond Bay, and 
following a path ^ m. E. 

Access is gained to Pine Pond, another pretty tarn, by 
proceeding with boats up the lake 2 m. beyond Lonesome 



256 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Pond Bay, and down the outlet (Saranac R.) 3 ni. and 
carrying (r.) i m. Good portage. 

To visit Ampersand Pond (really Ampersand; i x ^), 
one of the most sequestered as well as most lovely of all 
the Wilderness waters, we push the boat up shallow Cold 
Brook, a famous trout stream (which enters Saranac R., r. 
about 3 m. below the lake and near the river end of the 
portage to Pine Pond), i m.; and then carry (r.) S. W. 
across a difficult portage of 5 m. leading over a spur of 
Ampersand Mountain. The route passes near Little Am- 
persand Pond. 

At the termination of the carry, once stood the celebra- 
ted " Philosopher's Camp," the summer-home constructed 
many years ago at an expense of great hardship by Wm. F. 
Martin for Agassiz and his companions. This association 
was a gathering of congenial spirits, among whom were 
Emerson, Lowell, Judge Hoar, Dr. Jeffries Wyman, Dr. 
Estes Howe, John Holmes, W. J. Stillman, Amos Binney 
and Horatio Woodman.* (See Folingsby's Pond.) 

Ampersand Pond is also reached by a 5 m. trail leading 
from Middle Saranac Lake. And here, completely em- 
bosomed in the forest, where the axe of the woodman has 
rarely been heard, at the feet of mountain peaks (Seward, 
Ragged, Seymour and Ampersand), that guard it on every 
side as faithful sentinels, reposes this loch, most lonely in 
in its isolation, most bewitching in its loveliness. So far is 
it removed from the usual routes, and so very toilsome is 
the task of its examination, that the deer frequenting its 
solitudes and the trout swarming in its waters are not often 
annoyed by the approach of the sportsman. 

Here in ancient times, tradition asserts, the magicians of 
the Saranac Indians performed their weird, mystic charms 
for the purpose of raising the spirits of the dead. A trail 
leads from the shore to the base of Mt. Seward ; and this 
is the easiest route to its summit and to the Ou-lus-ka Pass 
(" the home or place of shadows " of the Indians. — Colvin), 
lying between that peak and Ragged Mt. 

•01 these eminent men only three survive:— W. J. Stillman, John Holmes, 
(hrother of Oliver Wendell) and Judge Hoar. (Aug. 22d, 1893.) 



1 



ROUTES FROM LOWER SARANAC LAKE. 



257 



Distances from Saranac Lake House: — 



To Saranac Lake Village, 
" Bloomingdale, (by road) 



Saranac Inn, (by road) 

Saranac Inn, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) 

Saranac Inn, (by water) 

Paul Smith's, (by road) 

Paul Smith's, \via A. & St. L. R. R.) 

Rainbow Lake, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) 

Ausable Station, (" Roger's.") . 

Keeseville, 

Port Kent, 

Plattsburg, (by Chateaugay R. R.) 

Ray Brook House, (by road or rail) 

North Elba, 

Lake Placid, (by road, via North Elba) 

Lake Placid, (by direct road) 

Lake Placid, (by Saranac & L. Placid R. R 

Adirondack Lodge, 

Mountain View House, 

Cascade Lakes, 

Mt. Marcy, 

Indian Pass, 

Keene, (old road) 

Keene, (new road) 

Keene Valley, 

St. Hubert's Inn, 

Elizabethtown, 

Westport, 

Wilmington Notch, 

Wilmington and Whiteface Mountain, 

"Bartlett's," (by water) . : 

Hotel Wawbeek, Upper Saranac L. (by water) 



MILES. 

8 
37 

46 
51 ^ 
743X 
4 
10 
12 

to 

loK 
i7>^ 
. 13 
18 

. n% 

23 
• 23 

25 
28 

31 

. 35 

43 

. 16 

22 

143^ 



Route from Hotel Ampersand to Upper Saranac, Long, 
Raquette and Tupper Lakes. 

Traversing the length of L. Saranac Lake, we may pause 
in Loon Bay, near the southerly end, on the 1., to quench 
our thirst, perchance to take our lunch at that romantic 
spot called " Jacob's Well." This is an ice-cold sprmg, 



258 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

whose waters come bubbling up from beneath a moss-cov- 
ered rock, near the base of a vertical bluff, frowning down 
upon us and reminding one of " Rogers' Slide," on Lake 
George. From here we pass up Saranac River, (narrow 
and tortuous) 3 m. to Middle Saranac Lake. Midway be- 
tween the two lakes are short rapids, where the river falls 
about 10 ft. within 10 rods. 

Guides formerly shot these rapids, when coming down 
the stream, and towed their boats when ascending it; but 
a lock placed there for steamboat navigation — since aban- 
doned—now compels all to carry (15 rods) around them. 

Middle Saranac, generally called Round Lake, is about 
8 m. in circumference, and is an attractive sheet, surround- 
ed by an amphitheatre of hills and mountains, Ampersand 
rising majestically from the southern side. It is decked 
with several handsome islands, and its bold shores are in- 
terspersed with sandy beaches. Here again our eyes are 
charmed by a distant view of the "Adirondack glories." 
For some reason not yet discovered. Round Lake is an 
easily-agitated and dangerous water. The breeze that 
merely ripples other lakes produces huge waves in this. 
A generous tourist, when passing through this section sev- 
eral years ago, was well-nigh shipwrecked at this place 
and forced to pass the entire night exposed to the pitiless 
storm, on a small peninsula near the foot of the lake. 
On this spot he afterwards had a substantial cabin erected, 
styled" Camp Refuge," to furnish shelter to others who 
might chance to have a similar experience. Since then, 
many weather-bound travelers have had occasion to bless 
this philanthropist for his thoughtful kindness. Crossing 
the lake and passing up Saranac River again, Yo. m. (a gi- 
gantic boulder on each side marking the point of entrance) 
we arrive at the Saranac Club House, occupying the site 
of the once famed " Bartlett's.* Though owned and man- 
aged by the " Saranac Club," it will continue to provide 
for the wants of travelers. But the name of "Bartlett's" 
will doubtless cling to the spot until the present generation 
is numbered with the past. (P. O., Saranac Lake, N. Y.) 

*A dally line of row-boats usually runs from the Saranac Lake hotels to 
«' Bartlett's " (12 m.) and thence to Sweeney Carry (The Wawheek), Upper 
Saranac Lake. A rough wood's road extends from Saranac Lake House to 
" Bartlett's." 



SARANAC CLUB HOUSE. MT. AMPERSAND. 259 

This popular hostelry has long been favorably known to 
the sporting and traveling community. It is situated im- 
mediately below the rapids, on the outlet of Upper Saranac 
Lake, and on the most direct route into the Wilderness by 
Lower Saranac Lake. Just in front of the house is the 
landing, from which boats and baggage are carried by 
team, loo rods, to the Upper Lake, (price for transporta- 
tion, 50 cents per load) and the situation is always animate 
with life from the passing of parties in and out of the 
woods. It is also a convenient and eligible place to ob- 
tain an outfit for camping expeditions. The house is well 
patronized especially by tourists from the large eastern 
cities. As Bartlett (who died in 1884) was one of the 
pioneers of the Wilderness (locating here in 1855), many 
old " Adirondackers " long made this place their head- 
quarters. Some of these here paid annual court for 25 
or 30 seasons ; notably Dr. J. R. Romeyn, of Keeseville, 
who made thirty-six yearly visits.* Although not really 
situated on a lake or large body of water, there are many 
things that lend an interest to this locality. Saranac R. 
runs directly in front of the house, and the murmur of its 
rapids, falling 60 ft., is constantly heard. Here is a farm 
clearing, with a number of rustic buildings suited to the wants 
of the interior life of the woods. The farm is skirted by for- 
ests which form its enclosure. Hills, with rich hardwood foli- 
age, rise in the near distance, and beyond these, moun- 
tains clothed with dark evergreens complete the horizon. 
From the summit of a moderate elevation in the rear of the 
house an impressive picture is enjoyed of the neighboring 
lakes and the Adirondack Mts, 50 or 60 peaks being dis- 
cernible, conspicuous among which are Saddleback, White- 
face, Rogers' and Ampersand. 

But the great event among excursions from this point is 
the ascent of Ampersand Mt.f Without this a tour of the 
Saranac Lakes would be incomplete. By thirty minutes 
boating down the river and through the bright and danc- 
ing waters of Middle Saranac Lake a good trail is reached 
leading to the top of the mountain. The opening of this 

*We Have been reliably informed that Dr. Komeyn Has made 41 annual 
visits to the Adirondacks (Sept. 'i. 1S93). 
tMt. Ampersand was formerly known as " Moose Mt." 



26o THE ADIRONDACKS. 

route — a most difficult matter — was solely due to the effort 
and enterprise of the late Dr. W. W. Ely, of Rochester. 
The path starts from the lower sand beach (S. E. side of 
the lake) near where the old carry to Ampersand P. be- 
gins It soon merges into an old lumber road which is 
followed for half a mile. A barked tree at the 1. indicates 
where we diverge from this road.* The ascent is usually 
accomplished in about 4 hours and no great discomfort is 
connected with the journey. The spectacle that awaits us 
at the summit is rich reward for double the toil. All 
around is spread a magnificent prospect. Immediately be- 
low, on either side, lie Round Lake and Ampersand Pond 
— gems of beauty bathing the mountain's base. Rising 
from the opposite shore of the pond, with savage sides and 
castellated crown, is Mt. Seward, attended by its rugged 
compeer, Ragged Mt. Farther away — many of them in 
the blue distance — at the E. and S. E., are Pitch-Off, Cas- 
cade, Porter, Mclntyre (concealing Marcy), Gray & Dix's 
Peak, Nipple Top, Slide, Santanoni, and countless other 
majestic mountains. In the S. and S. W. the entire length 
of Long Lake (13^^ m.) is revealed, and Blue Mt., Owl's 
Head, Mt. Morris and other less lofty pinnacles disclose 
their imposing forms. In the S. W. and W. and N, W. 
Big and Little Tupper Lakes, Raquette River, Simond's, 
Raquette, Big Wolf, Rollins, Floodwood, Big Square, Fish 
Creek, Folingsby's Clear, Hoel, St. Regis and Spitfire 
Ponds, U. St. Regis, Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes 
(with their fairy islands), the Weller Ponds and many 
sparkling waters besides, with their numerous tributaries — 
nearly fifty lakes, ponds and streams in all — display their 
glistening silver on a bed of boundless green. Westerly 
and northward. Buck, Ma-tum-ba-la, St. Regis and Lyon 
Mts. loom up grandly against the sky. To the N. and N. 
E. the beautiful valley of the Saranac stretches onward 

*An(i if you would avoid trouble, dear reader, accept our advice and do not 
be tempted to follow tMs road beyond this point, as we unwisely did many 
years ago— It looked so very inviting. It led us into difficulty, as it soon 
came to an end near the base of the huge mass we were to scale ; and 
rather than to retrace our steps we addressed ourselves to the Herculean 
task of scaling the precipitous walls before us, thereby enjoying (?) a rough 
and tumble scramble we have no desire to repeat. Peak after peak we sur- 
mounted, and gorge after gorge we encountered, always to find, until the 
very last, the true summit towering far away. No; follow the "straight 
and narrow" path, and not the "broad road." 



UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 261 

until absorbed by the valley of Lake Champlain, upwards 
of 50 ni. away ; and faintly perceptible are the glimmering 
peaks of Vermont, and less remote the massive Adirondack 
battlements of Ames, McKensie, Rogers', Saddle-back and 
Whiteface. 

AVell may Ampersand Mt. be pronounced the Rigi of 
America. A picture of grandeur and loveliness more en- 
chanting than that unfolded at its summit was never con- 
ceived in a poet's dream ; and it is while surveying such a 
scene that we completely realize what a wealth of beauty 
and sublimity nature has lavished upon this wild and won- 
derful region. A clearing has been made on the mountain- 
top (subsequently enlarged by the Slate Survey), and a 
substantial log and bark shanty, constructed by Dr. Ely's 
party, assisted by Dr. Read, of Boston. This mountain is 
ascended without deviating from the regular route through 
the Saranac waters, and no one can regret that a brief 
pause was made in the journey to enjoy the delicious treat 
the view affords 

Upper Saranac (Ind., San-bell o-nin-ipus, "Beautiful 
Lake," or, " Lake of the Silver Sky "), the "Queen "of 
the Saranac group, is about 8 m. in length by 2 to 3 in 
width. Its waters are deep, clear and pure ; surrounded 
by enchanting shores. It is a loch of exquisite bays, bold 
headlands, interesting narrows, picturesque islands and 
magnificent mountain views. The environing forest is 
dense and luxuriant. Numerous summer-houses, ornate 
and commodious, some, as costly as the average city- home, 
adorn the banks. Prominent among these is the cottage 
owned by Dr. S. B. Ward, of Albany, N. Y., and located 
at Markham Pt. on the E. side of the lake. 

From the Upper Saranac there are seven different meth- 
ods of approach to the Tupper waters, five of which are 
comparatively easy and pleasant, the remaining two dif- 
ficult but exceedingly romantic. 



262 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

1. 

From " Bartlett's Landing," cross the foot of the lake 
{il4 ™>) to Rustic Lodge; thence pass 

Over Indian Carry, . . . i mile. 

Over Spectacle Ponds, . . . 2 " 

Down Stony Creek to Raquette River . 3 " 

Down Raquette River to BigTupper Lake, 2o>^ " 

(Up Raquette River to Long Lake it is 13^ m.) 

{See route from Raquette Lake to Forked, Long and 
Tupper Lakes ) 

Rustic Lodge (formerly "Corey's") is pleasantly located 
on elevated ground at the southern end and enjoys a de- 
lightful prospect of the broad expanse of this noble lake. 
With its several neat little cottages, it offers good enter- 
tainment to 60 guests. The table, during Corey's admin- 
istration, was famed for its excellence throughout the re- 
gion and we believe this reputation is still sustained. Fare 
by steamer and stage to Saranac Inn, $150. (P. O. Axton, 
N. Y.) 

The celebrated Indian Carry is a smooth road over a 
level belt of cleared land. At the other extremity of this 
portage, on a gentle elevation near the first of the Spec- 
tacle or Stony Creek Ponds, delightfully overlooking its 
waters, is situated the Hiawatha House, where 40 guests 
are acceptably provided for. (P. O. Axton, N. Y.) In 
the vicinity, upward of one hundred years ago, the Sar- 
anac Indians had their dwelling place ; and on an emi- 
nence not far from the hotel is a mound-like seat where 
their chief was wont to keep his vigilant watch for the 
enemy. Here, too, is pointed out the impress in the solid 
rock of an Indian's foot. Corn-fields, in their season, then 
abounded where large second-growth timber now covers 
the ground. In fact, remarkable Indian antiquities have 
been discovered elsewhere in the Adirondacks. 

A fine mountain view is afforded from this spot; Sew- 
ard, Ampersand and other peaks being included in the 
picture. 



THE STONY CREEK PONDS. 263 

It costs but an hour's exertion to ascend Panther Mt. 
from this hotel, while a walk of 2 hours will take us to the 
summit of Stony Creek Mt. 

The proprietors of Hiawatha House and Rustic Lodge, 
with their teams, haul boats and baggage over the Indian 
Carry; price 75 cents per load. 

This road has been extended to Raquette River (2 m. 
distant), striking it at " Calkins," i/^ m. below the mouth 
of Stony Creek. Thus, when followed, 5 m. of water- 
travel may be avoided. Transportation always obtainable 
at the two hotels. 

The Spectacle Ponds (Ind., "Wampum Waters,") are 
connected by short channels. The first and third of 
these linked beauties are nearly round and about ^ m. in 
diameter. The second is much larger (the route crosses 
its narrowest portion) and very irregular in form, an island 
cutting it nearly in two. There is a carry of 2 m. from the 
E. shore of this pond to "Bartlett's Landing." In going 
from the first to the second pond, the " bridge of the nose " 
is passed by dragging the boat through the short outlet of 
4 or 5 r. In traveling up these waters on the way to Sar- 
anac Lake, a short turn to the left should be made soon 
after entering the second pond. Just where Stony Creek 
departs from the last of these ponds, on its shallow and 
sinuous course through marshy grounds to Raquette River, 
Ampersand Brook discharges the water, on the 1., it has 
brought from Ampersand Pond. At the mouth of this 
stream we advise the angler to throw his fly, as speckled 
trout of unusual size frequent the spot. 

The Indian word for Stony Creek is Wah-pol-ich-afi-i- 
^^;2, " Stream of the Snake." Its name is misleading, as 
there is hardly a stone to be seen in its depths. 

A road has been opened through the wilderness from 
the Hiawatha House to Tupper Lake, 12 m. This prob- 
ably, within 3 m., becomes identical with the one leading 
from The Wawbeek. Stage daily ; fare, $2,00. (See pp. 
170,265.) 



264 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

3. 

From " Bartlett's Landing " we cross the lake to Hotel 
Wavvbeek, 2 m. above Rustic Lodge on the W. shore and 
pass over the " Sweeney Carry " 3 m. to Raquette River 
(Tromblee's). From here to Big Tupper Lake it is 11 m. 
Hence the distance saved in comparison with the Stony 
Creek route is about 12 m. 

The "Sweeney Carry " is a pleasant forest-road passing, 
for most of the distance, through an immense sugar-bush. 
The proprietor of The Wawbeek and Oliver Tromblee, 
who keeps the small hotel at the river end of the portage, 
furnish transportation. Price, $1.50 per load ; passengers, 
75 cents each ; party of several, 50 cents each. At Trom- 
blee's, good meals are obtained for 75 cents. 

^^fe^elier picture is rarely seen than that beheld from 
the <fomm2W|^ing eminence on which The Wawbeek is 
seated.* Bea.u]tiful green islands frequently fringed with 
beaches of white sand, stud the waters of the lake in front, 
and on the right and left. Old Whiteface, with the light 
spot on his brow ever conspicuous, towers grandly into the 
sky, asserting his supremacy over many other ambitious 
peaks that rise and face him, dim and shadowy in the dis- 
tance. Far, far beyond the vision's utmost grasp, the un- 
broken forest stretches away. It is a scene to be viewed 
for hours with increasing delight. 

The Wawbeek is a pre-eminently attractive and fashion- 
able summer resort. In architecture it is very picturesque, 
and with its shapely towers and grand proportions forms 
an imposing feature in a landscape that claims the admira- 
tion of every beholder. Broad verandas nearly encircle 
the building, offering shaded promenades and views of 
scenery full of varied beauty and grandeur. It has nearly 
all of the modern appointments, including public and pri- 
vate baths. Open fire-places enliven the office and many 
of the apartments. 

From nearly every room (each high, spacious and well- 
equipped) may be witnessed an animated water-scene, a 

*Tliis hotel derived its name from the great houlder lying on the sloping 
grounds : Waw'jeek heing the Indian word for " Big Rock.". 



UPPER SARANAC LAKE. HOTEL WAWBEEK. 265 

virgin forest and numerous mountains. It has thorough 
sanitary improvements approved by experts. Pure water 
from a distant spring, mountain-born, is conducted through 
the house in iron pipes. Wall-tents (carpeted) and hand- 
some cottages suitably furnished and especially desirable 
to those seeking perfect quiet and better air are dispersed 
amid the leaf-fringed grounds. 

The table is liberal; perhaps unexcelled. Boating, fish- 
ing, rambling through the woods, games of billiards, cro- 
quet and lawn-tennis are among the amusements enjoyed. 
Every possible arrangement has been made to promote the 
health, comfort and enjoyment of 200 guests. Camp- 
outfits are procurable here. Telegraph and post-office 
(Wawbeek, N. Y.) in the house. Steamers touch at the 
landing daily and convey passengers to the different camps 
and hotels on the lake. P'are to Saranac Inn, via stage and 
boat, $1.25. 

4. 

A stage runs daily from Hotel Wawbeek over a good 
road through the forest (9 m.) to Tupper Lake Village, 
there connecting with trains on the Northern Adirondack 
R. R., (stage fare $1.50) and with steamer for Big Tupper 
Lake (3 m). (See p. 170.) 



Fish Creek enters the lake on the W. side, 3 m. above The 
Wawbeek and 4 m. below Saranac Inn. By paddling up 
the stream a short distance admission is gained to a chain 
of upward of 20 smiling ponds, tributary waters of the 
Upper Saranac, closely interlacing with each other, which 
may be visited in detail without carrying over 100 r. in the 
entire trip. In regular order, Lower, Middle and Upper 
Fish Creek and Big Square Ponds are traversed. It is 5^ 
m. up the creek from Upper Pond to Mud Pond, and i m. 
thence up the same stream to Duck Pond ; Little Copperas 
and Little Square Ponds follow in close succession ; and i 
m. farther still by inlet takes us to Floodwood Pond. Here 



266 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the course becomes identical with Route No. 7, p. [270. In 
this "Hunter's Paradise" the sportsman's " occupation is 
never gone.'* 

Parties visiting this lake formerly camped upon Bear 
Point, 3 m. above The Wawbeek ; Watch Point 2 m. above 
that ; Buck Island and Goose Island 2 or 3 m. from the 
head ; and Birch Island near the foot of the lake. 



6 AND 7, 

Saranac Inn is located on an elevated plateau at the 
northern end of Upper Saranac Lake. Standing on a pe- 
ninsula, it commands a water view of nearly three miles in 
a semi-circle, dotted here and there with beautiful islands, — 
forming a picture of transcendent loveliness. Beyond are 
numerous elevations of great variety and beauty, and far- 
ther back tower the principal mountains of the Adiron- 
dacks, of which no other situation, if Lake Placid is ex- 
cepted, affords so fine a survey. M^rcy, Mclntyre, Hay- 
stack, Golden, Whiteface, Wallface, Seward, the Long Lake 
Group, Ampersand, Mt. Morris and the Tupper Lake 
Range, Wolf, Cascade and Mt. St. Regis are all visible 
from the hotel and places near. 

The scenery at this point is impressive in the extreme, 
ranking with the finest in the region, and should be viewed 
by all tourists to the Great Forest. 

Saranac Inn is one of the oldest resorts in the Adircn- 
dacks and for many years it bore the name of " Houghs." 
With its new and extensive additions it is adapted to the 
wants of 125 guests. All useless display and ostentation 
are carefully avoided, it being furnished in a manner to 
conform to the pleasure and convenience of the occupants. 
It is a select family hotel, possessing in the quiet elegance 



'Deer Pond Is readied by a carry leading westward from tlie W. shore, at 
a point about midway between the mouth of Fish Creek and The Wawbeek. 

The carry to Deer Pond passes near Brandy Pond (N.) which is a short 
distance from the lake. 

Follow the path leading from Saginaw Bay. on the E. side of the lake, 1 m. 
S. E. to reach Big and Little Weller Ponds (linked closely together), lying 
near Boot-bay Mt., and about midway between Upper and Lower Saranac 
Lakes. They are quite attractive. 

Black Pond is visited by carrying from the E. side of the head of the lake, 
\yi m. S. E. 



> 

2: 

> 
n 



n 

> 




UPPER SARANAC LAKE. SARANAC INN. 267 

of its appointments more of the characteristics of a private 
home than of a public house. It is liberally patronized by 
Boston, New York and Philadelphia families of social 
prominence, and is a favorite haunt of President Cleve- 
land, whose picturesque cottage is charmingly situated on 
the well-shaded and park-like grounds. The excellent 
character the inn has gained is largely due to the long and 
efficient management of D. W. Riddle. The table is above 
criticism. Not to name the different delicacies offered to 
gratify the taste, it is always supplied in the proper season 
with the various dainties that lake and forest produce. 

Upper Saranac Lake has always been a famous sporting 
locality, and is still entitled to that reputation. Salmon- 
trout of large size are frequently taken from its waters. 
The fishing, it is claimed, is better here and in the imme- 
diate vicinity than in any other locality. Within a radius 
of three miles are over thirty lakes and ponds, all abound- 
ing in trout ; many frequented by deer. Other desirable 
fishing and hunting grounds more remote are easily reached 
from this place. 

Boats and camp-supplies may be procured at the Inn ; 
also suitable conveyances for drives to various points of in- 
terest in the neighborhood. Of these, the excursion to 
Bloomingdale (13 m.) over an excellent turnpike road; to 
Lower Saranac Lake (13 m.); and to Paul Smith's (17 m.) 
are especially recommended. A road, in fair condition, 
extends through the woods 7^ m. W. to Blue Fond, a sta- 
tion on the N. A. R. R. (See p. 182.) 

In the Inn will be found a telephone, a telegraph station 
and a post-office (" Saranac Inn, N. Y."). 

The hotel stage runs daily, over a fine road through a 
virgin forest to Saranac Inn Station (2 m.; fare, 50 cts.), 
connecting with trains on the A. & St. L. R. R. and steam- 
ers on the lake ; also to Bloomingdale Station, (13 m. ; 
fare, Si-5o) on the C. R. R. 

With the voyage through the Upper Saranac, in the 
fairy little steamers Loon and Saranac, touching at The 
Wawbeek, Rustic Lodge, " Bartlelt's " and other landings, 
all will be enchanted. 



26S THE ADIRONDACKS. 

It will be noticed that Saranac Inn may now be reached 
without the slightest hardship by means of the luxurious 
cars on that Ideal Line of "the Thousand Lakes," the 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., either via Malone 
or Herkimer. Tourists on the Chateaugay R. R. en route to 
this place or to other points on the lake, should leave that line 
at Loon Lake and take cars on the A. and St. L. R. R. j and 
those coming via the Northej-n Adirondack R. R. should make 
the same kind of change at Tapper Lake Junction. {See pp. 
169, 182, 234.) (This is Route No. 6 to Tupper Lake ) 

Pleasant Boat Excursions from Saranac Inn. 
{Round Trips?) 

Starting from Saranac Inn in a light boat, we row gen- 
erally in a westerly direction through the northern end of 
Upper Saranac Lake and through Spring Pond; landing 
at the W. end of that sheet i y^ m. from the house. A carry 
of yi m. takes us to Green Pond, across which we row 
Yo. m. landing on its west bay. The carry to Folingsby- 
Clear is about yi m., and the boat is then launched on one 
the prettiest ponds in this section. Through this we row 
about 2 miles; the general direction being S. W. and the 
course a winding one. On the W. shore of this pond, and 
near the southern end, the boat is taken out and carried 
about Yi m. into Fish Creek. From here the windings of 
this stream are followed E. of S. (passing by Big Square 
Pond and through Fish Creek Ponds) until we reach Up- 
per Saranac Lake at Fish Creek Bay. On the S. bank 
of this bay, an old clearing may be seen where the elder 
St. Germain had his hut many years ago, and who killed 
more tons of fish than any other man has ever taken out of 
the Saranac waters. From here the row home is just 4 
miles, passing Whitney Point, Buck Island, Burnt Point, 
Moss Rock Point, Markham Point and Green and Dry 
Islands en route. The carries amount in all to about i m,, 
while the water course is about 10 miles. Total, 11 miles. 

This trip may be varied by rowing almost due S. from 
the Inn to the southern part of West Bay (of Upper Sara- 
nac Lake); carrying Yz m. S. W. to the S. end of Folingsby- 
Clear; thence boating down the outlet of that lakelet into 



ROUTES FROM UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 269 

Lower Fish Creek Pond, and from that water back to the 
house as before.* Of course, Spring, Green and the larger 
part of FoHngsby-Clear are not seen. The walking amounts 
to only Yq, m. and the rowing to a little more than 8 miles. 
A somewhat similar excursion, but longer and prettier, is 
made by carrying from Spring Pond to Hoel, i m.; rowing 
across Hoel, i m ,f and through Turtle and Slang; carry- 
ing ^ or ^ mile to Big Long; rowing 2 m , through Big 
Long; carrying >^ m. to East Pine; rowing ^ m. through 
that pond; carrying V^ m. to Flood wood, and passing down 
the whole length of Fish Creek, into Upper Saranac Lake, 
and thence to Saranac Inn. This tour involves about 2^ 
miles of walking and some 15 miles of rowing, making 
total distance, 171^ miles. (See 265.) 

Distances from Saranac Inn to 

Loon Lake House, {via A. & St. L. R. R.)J 
Meacham Lake, (byroad via " Paul's ") 
Paul Smith's Hotel, (by road) . 
" " (bywater)§ . 

(by A. & St. L. R. R.) . 
Rainbow Lake, (Wardner's) (by A. & St. L. 

R.R.)II . . . 

Bloomingdale Station, (C. R. R.) 
Bloomingdale .... 

"Bartlett's," (Saranac Club House) 
Indian Carry, (Rustic Lodge) 
Sweeney " (Hotel Wawbeek) 
Raquette River, {via Hotel Wawbeek) 
Lower Saranac Lake, {via A. & St. L. R. R. 

" (by water) 

" (byroad) 
Blue Pond Station, (N. A. R. R.) 

*A cany leads from Upper Saranac Lake (N. of West Bay) to N. end of 
Folingslby-Clear Pond, % m. W. 

t From Hoel P. we may visit St. Regis P., by carrying 1^ m. N. E. (See p. 
245.) About midway of the carry a small pond is passed. 

tTne distance given on p. 234 is from Loon Lake and not fi^om the hotel. It 
Is 1 m. farther than named. 

§ For routes fi'om Saranac Inn to Paul Smith's hy water^ see pp. 244-246. 

I! This distance was erroneously printed on page 23T, ll>^ miles. 



24^ 


miles, 


29 


u 


17 


<( 


TO 


u 


14 


u 


I2>^ 


<( 


13 


(( 


13 


t( 


8^ 


u 


8 


u 


8 


<( 


II 


u 


i2y. 


(( 


20^ 


(1 




u 


13 




1% 


a 



270 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Saranac Inn Station, (A. & St. L. R. R.) . 2 miles. 

Ray Brook House, {via A. & St. L. R. R.) 16^ " 
Lake Placid, {via A. & St. L. & S. & L. P. 

R. R.) . . . . i9>^ " 

Big Tupper Lake, (via Hotel Wawbeek) .22 " 

Little Tupper Lake, ( " " ) 37^ " 

Tupper Lake Junction, {via A. & St. L. R. R.) 17 " 
North Elba, {via A. & St. L. R. R. and 

carriage) . . . . 19 " 

Adirondack Lodge, {via A. & St. L. R. R. 

and carriage) . . . . 261^ *' 

Keene Valley, {via A. & St. L. R. R. and 

carriage) • • • • 37 " 

Elizabethtown, {via A. & St. L. R. R. and 

carriage) . . . . 44 " 

Westport, {via A, & St. L. R. R. and carriage) 52 " 

Plattsburg, {via A. & St. L. & C. R. R.) 76 

Malone, (by A. & St. L. R. R.) . 46^ " 

Herkimer, ( " " " ) . . 130^ " 



Route (No. '].) from Saranac Inn to Big 

Hoel^ Floodwood, Rollins^ Wolf, etc., 

approximate distances : 

Inlet, 

Spring Pond, 

Portage, 

Green Pond, 

Portage, 

Hoel Pond, . 

Portage, 

Mud Turtle Pond, 

Stream, . 

Slang Pond, 

Portage, 

Big Long Pond, 

Portage, 

Floodwood Pond. 

Portage, 

Rollin's Pond, 

Portage, 



Tupper Lake, via 
Ponds, with 

y^ mile. 



5 rods. 

I mile. 

10 rods. 

^ mile. 

^ " 






% 



ROUTES FROM UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 27 1 

Mosquito Pond, . . . ^ mile. 

Portage, . . . i^ " 

Little Long Pond, . . . i^ *' 

Portage, . . . i ^ " 

Big Wolf Pond, . . . 3 '' 

Portage, . . . ^ " 

Little Wolf Pond, . . . 3^ '' 

Little Wolf Brook, . . 5 " 

Raquette Pond, (crossing a portion of it) i " 

Raquette River, . , . 2 " 

Total, . . 29 " 

Spring Pond is noted for the transparency of its waters. 

jGreen Pond is a most lovely sheet. 

Hoel Pond is famed for the abundance of trout it fur- 
nishes all the year through. 

Mud Turtle Pond affords but few lily-pads for deer. 

Slang Pond, on the contrary, is silvered over with them, 
especially at its upper extremity, and hence is very at- 
tractive to that animal. 

Portions of the shores of Big Long Pond are composed 
of marshy ground. 

Between Big Long and Floodwood Ponds a stream en- 
ters the outlet, flowing from Rainbow and Pine Ponds 
N. W. 

By carrying N. W. from these waters we may reach Dry 
Channel, Ledge, Windfall, Blue, McDonald, East, etc. 
Ponds, sources of St. Regis River. (See pp 160, 241, 242.) 

Long P. affords good springs and an abundance of trout. 
Clam-shell P. lies a short distance N. 

Floodwood P. has several very pretty islands, one of 
which is called Beaver Isle. It is a beautiful and favorite 
location for camping. From this pond by Route No. 5 (p. 
265) we may descend the Fish Creek waters 4^ m. to the 
U. Saranac, and pass up the lake 4 m. to Saranac Inn. 

Rollin's, or Rawlin's P. — a delightful sheet, commanding 
noble views of Mt. Seward and subordinate peaks — con- 
tains Camp and three or four other picturesque islands. 
By following the inlet entering its N. extremity from the 



272 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

N. W., we may visit White Pine P. ; and by carrying thence 
we will reach Mountain, River, Wells, etc., Ponds, head- 
waters of Jordan and St. Regis Rivers."* 

Mosquito P. is a dismal sheet; shores low and swampy; 
scenery gloomy and desolate. Between Mosquito and Lit- 
tle Long Ponds, acres of the marshy ground tremble be- 
neath our feet like the throbbing caused by an earthquake. 

Big Wolf P., a bewitching lake with shining beaches of 
sand nearly encircling it, is renowned for the large-sized 
trout it has produced. In 1871 Dr. Perkins, of Albany, 
brought one over the side of his boat weighing 25^ lbs. ; 
and " North Elba " Blin took therefrom a 30-pounder. 
But latterly none larger than 12 lbs. are taken. Cold 
springs and good camping sites abound here. 

Just below Little Wolf P. a stream enters Wolf Brook, 
flowing from Lead and Woodbury Ponds, lying E. and N. 
E. Wolf Brook is exceedingly crooked and frequently 
shallow. It may be avoided by carrying 2 m. S. to 
Raquette Pond. ^For Tapper Lake Village on Raquette 
Pond, see p. i6g) 

The "Wolf Pond Route," as this is called, being rough 
and swampy in many places, is only traveled by adven- 
turous hunters and fishermen. Ladies seMom attempt to 
follow it. The A. & St. L. R. R. passes near this group of 
waters. 

* -St * * -St * * 

At the village of Ausable Forks (Ind., Tei-o-ho--ho-gen^ 
" The Forks of a River ") at the junction of the E. and W. 
branches of the wild and turbulent Ausable River, the 
traveler journeying toward the Saranac Lakes may diverge 
from the plank road by a most romantic route, destined to 
become a popular avenue to the Wilderness. It possesses 
the advantages of being shorter than the one via Franklin 
Falls, and what is more interesting, it passes through the 
celebrated Wilmington Notch, a deep and wonderful chasm 
piercing the E. flank of Whiteface Mountain. 

"From Eollin's p. carry 1-^ in. E.; cross Whey P., (1 x %); carry l m. E.; 
cross Big- Square P. (1}<^ x i)— thus reaching Upper Fish Creek Ponds. 

Simons P., a trihutary of Rollins P., lies, not far, N. W. of it. and N. W. of 
that is Mountain Pond. 




BIG FALLS. WILMINGTON NOTCH. 



WILMINGTON. 273 

From Ausable Forks to Wilmington via Lower Jay it is 
II m.; via Black Brook, 9 m ; and thus the route may be 
shortened 2 m. by making Black Brook instead of Ausable 
Forks the diverging point, and pursuing the W. branch in 
place of the E. branch of the Ausable. 

Wilmington to Wilmington Notch, 51^ m.; thence to 
North Elba, 6^ m ; thence to Lower Saranac Lake, 10 m. 
North Elba to Lake Placid, 2 m. 

Wilmington is pleasantly located on the banks of the 
W. Ausable and near the base of Whiteface Mountain, in 
the midst of some of the most grand and imposing scenery 
of the region. 

Why is it that this quiet little village, encircled with a 
noble amphitheatre of mountains, and really wrapped in 
dreamy charms, is not thronged with summer visitors ? 
Tourists familiar with the White Mountains, visiting this 
place, would pronounce it the Bethlehem of the Adiron- 
dacks. In the vicinity are numerous beds of iron ore, formerly 
mined with fair success, while other industries flourished. 
But now neglected and deserted mills and forges give 
evidence of prosperity long since departed. There should 
be an immediate recovery from this state of obscurity. 
Wilmington has been isolated too long from the outside 
world, when it ought to be one of the best patronized re- 
sorts in the whole range of mountain travel. 

The Bliss House is pleasantly situated within 5 rods of 
the W. side of the river, and provides for the wants of 40 
guests. The table is very satisfactory, being amply sup- 
plied with fresh milk, cream, butter, eggs, fruit and vege- 
tables. An abundance of pure spring-water is a feature of 
the place. A croquet plat and a lawn tennis-court will be 
found on the grounds. 

The Storrs House is located on the E. side of the river 
and has good accommodations for about 35 guests. At 
either hotel boats may be engaged to use on the river, 
which here affords fair navigation for nearly i)^ miles ; an 
exception to the general rule. 

The Ausable, whose birthplace is in the Indian Pass and 
among wilds and tarns almost inaccessible, is so fierce and 



274 THE ABIRONDACKS. 

rocky a stream that boats can rarely travel on its waters. 
From its highest source (Scott Ponds, on the heights of 
Wallface) to Lake Champlain, a distance of less than 50 
m., it falls over 3,000 ft.; and for a large portion of its 
course it passes through the wildest scenery imaginable. 

Well shaded and picturesque rambles and drives may be 
enjoyed in the neighborhood of Wilmington. 

Both hotels furnish conveyances for ascending White- 
face Mt. From base to summit the distance is 6^ m. 
Travelers are conveyed with carriages 2^ m.; then saddle- 
horses are taken for the remainder of the ascent, 3^ m., 
the route passing over Pack-horse Mt. All should pause, 
on the way, at " Pt. Lookout " and cast a backward glance 
at the beautiful landscape spread below. The enterprising 
proprietors of the hotels have erected a rustic lodge 80 
rods below the summit, where good lunches and. comfort- 
able lodgings are provided. Hospitality nearly a mile 
above tide is a virtue worthy of celebration. 

The charge for guide is $2 50 ; guide and horse, $5 ; 
saddle-horse, without guide, $4. 

Whiteface Mountain (Ind., IVa-ho-par-te-me, also Wa- 
pa-si-ni, " White Head ") derived its name from an ava- 
lanche that swept down its western slope nearly 90 years 
ago (1806), laying bare a great extent of light gray rock. 
Viewed from a distance this slide presents a whitish ap- 
pearance, especially near the crown. Whiteface is in some 
respects the grandest pinnacle in this princely range. Sev- 
eral authorities before recent surveys pronounced it the 
loftiest. It furnishes, according to Emmons, a greater ex- 
tent of surface upon its summit, formed of chaotic masses 
of rocks, than any other mountain of the northern coun- 
ties. It is abrupt in its acclivities, symmetrical in its pro- 
portions, isolated in its situation, and commands the most 
extended and magnificent prospect of all the group. Look- 
ing toward the E. we behold the broad bosom of Lake 
Champlain, the emerald slopes of the Green Mountains, 
(Mansfield pre-eminent) and the shadowy outlines of the 
" White Hills," with intervening woodland and cultivated 
fields. To the S., Adirondack sublimity breaks upon the 
eye, "majestic forms towering above airy masses," proudly 



WHITEFACE MOUNTAIN. WILMINGTON PASS. 



'75 



conspicuous among which are Mclntyre, Nipple Top, and 
the grand Tahawus. In the W. we discern a limitless ex- 
panse of dense forests where gleams of silver disclose the 
location of the Saranacs, the Tuppers, and a multitude of 
other lakes ; while at the N. we overlook the flashing mir- 
ror of Lake Ontario, the glittering waters of the St. Law- 
rence, the spires and turrets of Montreal, and the far- 
spreading wilderness of the Canadas. At the foot of the 
mountain lies Lake Placid — a picture of fairy land — the 
most lovely feature of a landscape presenting such variety 
"that all the elements of beauty and grandeur seem blend- 
ed together,"* 

Stages usually depart daily from Wilmington for Ausable 
Station, North Elba, Lake Placid, Elizabethtown and 
Westport. 

Leaving Wilmington and approaching the Notch (Ind., 
Kur loo-na, '^ ^\>oi oi {h.Q Death-Song") we pause to in- 
spect and admire on the way The Flume (2 m), an at- 
tractive natural wonder ; Little Falls, (3^ m.), a dashing, 
charming cascade ; Big Falls (4^^ m. ), where the Ausable 
leaps down a precipice of 100 feet into the dark 
abyss below, and Copperas Pond (100 acres) lying far 
up the slopes of Promontory Mountain. The waters of 
this little mere are strongly impregnated with sulphate of 
iron and in the vicinity native copperas is found in rich 
profusion. Entering the colossal portals of the Pass we 
are filled with amazement and awe by its utter wildness 
and savage grandeur. Here the Ausable, compressed to a 
few feet in breadth, bursts through the mountain obstruc- 
tion and thunders onward in its furious career. On the 
right, Whiteface, with almost perpendicular ascent, towers 
in awful majesty 2,000 ft. above the river's bed. Upon the 
opposite side another precipitous mass attains an altitude 
of nearly equal sublimity. Thus for nearly 2 m. does this 
shadowy gorge extend, and through one-eighth of that dis- 
tance its tremendous walls so nearly approach each other 
that scant space is allowed for the road and stream. Short- 
ly after emerging from this wonderful gateway of natural 

*Itjs said that 60 lakes can toe counted from the summit of Mt. Whiteface. 



276 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

masonry by deviating to the r. by a " turn-off"* from the 
traveled route, Lake Placid may be examined; but it is 
usually visited via North Elba, from which it is 2 miles. 
(See Lake Placid and North Elba; Route 25th.) 
******* 

Again the tourist approaching the Saranac lakes via Port 
Kent, by making a detour from the regular route, also at 
Ausable Forksf and following the E. branch of the Ausa- 
ble over a good road, may visit Keene Valley, one of the 
most delightful and impressive of all the Adirondack 
haunts. By this approach he passes through superb val- 
ley, river and mountain scenery ; Clark, Hamlin, Bassett, 
McDonough, Whiteface and the more distant peaks of 
Keene being frequently in view. 

From Ausable Forks to Lower Jay, a very pretty village, 
it is 6 m.; thence to Upper Jay, 3 m.; Keene Center, 5 m.; 
Keene Valley Village, 5 m.; St. Hubert's Inn, at the head 
of the "Valley," 3 m. Total, 22 m. Here the old-time 
highway terminates, but an excellent road extends 3^ m. 
farther S, to Lower Ausable Lake. Stage daily to Keene 
Valley. 

This lovely vale is usually more conveniently reached f7'07n 
Westport via Elizabethtown^ and in that connection it is 
fully described. ^See Route Twenty -fifth }j 

From Keene Center it is 5 m. to Cascade Lakes; 10 m. 
to Mountain View House ; 13 m. to North Elba; 15 m. to 
Lake Piacid, and 23 m. to Lower Saranac Lake. The pro- 
posed Ausable Valley R. R. (the route is already surveyed) 
to extend from Keeseville, present terminus of the Keese- 



*Tlie Notch House, now closed, is at)Out midway between Wilmington and 
North Elba. From here Owen P. a short distance E., and Conery P., }4 m. 
W., are visited. Only 1 m. from the latter to Lake Placid, and 13^ to MiiTor 

Hoicomh P. (1 X jcj)— very romantic— lies 3^ m. from the Pass road, and 
several other lakelets sparkle in the vicinity. 

tThe railroad station first called "Point of Rocks," and afterwards 
"Ausahle," is now styled "Rogers." This was named in honor of J. & J. 
Rogers, owners of the vast iron-works at Black Brook and Ausable Forks, 
established by their family over 50 years ago. They have recently erected 
an immense sulphite pulp-mill at Ausable Forks, and the raih'oad has been 
f^xtended from "Rogers' Station" to this place. They own 75,000 acres of 
land in the vicinity. 

One-fourth mile S. of this village is a remarkable gorge called "Trumbull's 
Glen." 



PORT KENT. AUSABLE CHASM. 277 

ville, Ausable Chasm & Lake Champlain R. R., through 
Upper and Lower Jay to Keene Valley, and thence to 
Lake Placid, there to connect with the S. & L. P. R. R., 
will offer the traveler, when completed, a fine opportunity 
to take delightful all-rail round trips from Plattsburg via 
the C. R. R. or from Port Kent via the K., A. C, & L. C. 
R. R. 

Twenty-fourth. — -Port Kent (Lake Side House, and 
Trembleau Hall), 15 m. S. of Plattsburg, occupies a com- 
manding eminence nearly opposite Burlington, Vt., 10 m. 
distant. The view afforded from its elevated site is very 
extended and beautiful. (See p. 223.) The route thence 
lies via Keeseville, 5 m. W., now conveniently reached by 
the K., A. C, & L. C. R. R. 

Between these two villages is the celebrated Ausable 
Chasm, or, as it was formerly called " the Walled Banks of 
the Ausable," situated on Ausable River. The road crosses 
a bridge at the head of the gorge, and the Chasm, along its 
whole length, is accessible from the public highway^ 
Hence, it may be visited without labor or fatigue. This 
stupendous phenomenon has been well described as one of 
the natural wonders of the world. Miss Bremer, the Swed- 
ish author, while gazing on the scene with enraptured won- 
der and the delight of genius, exclaimed, that " a visit to it 
would reward a voyage from Europe." We have seen no 
better description of Ausable Chasm (twice visited, but not 
thoroughly explored by us) than that by the pen of Clifford 
P. McCalla, appearing in Scribners Magazine several years 
since. From this we are induced to quote: 

" A pleasant ride brought us to the precincts of Ausable 
Chasm and the elegant little chalet that guards its portal, 
and where books, geological specimens and views of the 
scenery may be obtained. Entering it, and arming our- 
selves with alpenstocks, we were shown through the op- 
posite door, which opened upon a stairway leading down 
to the cliff (entrance fee to those 7iot guests, 75 cents), and 
informed that the freedom of the Chasm was ours. The 
moment we reached the bottom. Rainbow Falls, the Niag- 
ara of Ausable Chasm, and a charming prelude to the 



278 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

grander panorama about to be unfolded, flashed upon our 
sight. The falls are twins, separated by a rocky tower, 
and on either side of it the massive current pours down 
the abyss an amber sheet of water (70 ft.). Just as we 
neared the base of the cataract the sun painted a prismatic 
arc upon the up-leaping spray. 

" From this point the tour began. We stood upon the 
level adamantine shore of Ausable River, near the center 
of an immense amphitheatre, with lofty vertical walls of 
rock on either side, and a rocky pavement beneath our 
feet.* We were in the bowels of the earth, in a natural 
canal, threaded in the middle only by a stream which 
careered through it from end to end, no particle of soil ad- 
hering to either the bottom or side of the gorge. Every 
spring and autumn the swollen torrent sweeps through it, 
often rising fifty feet above the usual level, carrying every- 
thing movable in its path, and polishing the floor and walls 
of the Chasm as thoroughly as an army of stone-masons 
could do it. Nature was the builder, and is still the jani- 
trix of Ausable Chasm. Its cyclopean walls bear the im- 
press of her architectural skill. She laid the tessellated 
floor with variegated stone. She dusts it with the wind, 
waters it with the rain, and cleans house always twice a 
year in good orthodox style ; and woe be to him who has 
the temerity to linger within doors on either of these grand 
occasions. 

" Our Nestor, he over whose physical frame seventy-four 
winters had passed, but whose spirit seemed to have been 
basking only in the light and warmth of seventy-four sum- 
mers, was quick to appreciate the smooth pavement over 
which we walked. It was faultless. Not a drop of water 
moistened it. Scarcely an inequality was apparent on its 
surface. 

" Soon we came in view of Horse Shoe Falls and Lean- 
ing Tower, and stepped over a tiny rivulet, which is an off- 
shoot from the main stream, upon Rock Island, between 
which and the opposite shore are the falls. They are not 

*Tlie walls rise perpendicularly on either side from 50 to 175 ft. while the 
%vidthof the canyon rai-ely exceeds 30 ft.; and in several places the stupen- 
dous masonry of the opposite walls approaches Avithin S or 10 ft. The length 
of the Chasm proper is ahout 2 miles. 



AUSABLE CHASM. 279 

lofty, but exceedingly beautiful. They pour a rapid tor- 
rent, which hurries over jagged rocks to form a series of 
foaming cascades. Pictorially this water-view is one of the 
gems of the Chasm. The Leaning Tower nearly opposite, 
a beetling cliff one hundred and fifty feet in height, over- 
hangs the gorge, simultaneously threatening and protecting 
it ; and adds materially to the grandeur of the scene. 

" Turning a sharp angle at this point we were face to 
face with a galaxy of wonders. Foremost was the battle 
of the waters, waged between the rival cascades, — the devil 
presumably viewing it from his Oven, opposite, and Jacob 
from his Ladder, — we together forming a mixed throng of 
beholders. The ceaseless conflict of those watery foes — 
every wave-crest being a tongue and having a voice — I 
never can forget. The scene, looking up the current from 
the foot of the Ladder, is inexpressibly lovely ; while that 
below, where the gorge contracts and assumes the appear- 
ance of embattled ramparts, the one side almost touching 
the other, is akin to the sublime. Jacob's Ladder scales 
the heights on the middle line between the two, and it is 
well named, since it can only be climbed in one's dreams ; 
while the Devil's Oven is a deep, dark hole, 20 ft. high at 
its entrance and 30 ft. deep, just like many another named 
for him the world over. 

" One evening there was a spell upon the Chasm, from 
Rainbow Falls to the Devil's Oven ; and it was suggested 
that that potent fairy, Fata Morgana, might have been the 
creator of its meteoric phenomena. Palisade walls, raging 
rapids, resounding waterfalls, were all ablaze with light. 
The marvels of nature were heightened by art. Flam- 
beaux and mimic conflagrations deep down in the gorge 
produced a unique exhibition of pyrotechnics. In the 
weird light the cascades danced with ghostly splendor, and 
the walls of the Chasm were crimsoned as with blood. The 
grand central fire was in the Devil's Oven, whence myriad 
tongues of flame crackled and shot forth. Stationary and 
shifting torches flared as far as the eye could see, while be- 
tween and among them all, the tide of humanity ebbed and 
flowed, every face aglow with light and wonder. Neither 
verbal nor pictorial delineation can do more than faintly 



250 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

suggest the splendor of the pageant at the illumination of 
Ausable Chasm. 

" A rustic bridge spans the river opposite the Devil's 
Oven ; crossing by it, we scaled the heights beyond by an 
airy stairway of 212 steps. Proceeding along the cliff, we 
speedily came to a descending flight of steps, where we 
were all charmed into a silence, only broken by exclama- 
tions of surprise and wonder. The reach of view is stu- 
pendous, both in length and depth. Through a gigantic 
buttressed aisle, for nearly one thousand feet, the flow of 
water is as straight as an arrow, moving with such depth 
and calmness that its liquid pavement wears the similitude 
of solid glass. The towering walls, with their fragmentary 
edges all water-worn, exhibit plainly the action of freshet 
and flood. From no point is the view grander than from 
the summit of this stairway. Cedars and pines brood over 
the gorge, overspreading its gulf with an evergreen canopy. 
Below, to the rear of the stairs, embosomed in a vast rocky 
fissure, unnumbered ferns are grouped, carpeting the cave 
with their delicate fronds, and completing this bower of 
greenery. If the fairies haunt this dell, this nook must be 
their presence-chamber. 

" Turning from the enchanted spot, the vista to the right 
is as singularly picturesque. On a ledge below, not access- 
ible to man, but readily so to the prince of darkness, is the 
Devil's Punch Bowl. The story goes that Satan, after 
cooking his daily meal in the Oven, resorts to the Punch 
Bowl to inaugurate his midnight debauch. To us the 
basin seemed to hold only pellucid water. If any other 
liquor is brewed in it, it is done so mysteriously as to leave 
no after trace. 

'* The origin of the Chasm is betrayed by the semi-cir- 
cular excavations apparent in various parts of its walls. 
These rock-hieroglyphics, which can be read by any geol- 
ogist, are many feet above the present water-level, and 
were evidently chiseled by the water. Like Niagara the 
Ausable owes its formation to the persistent quarrying of 
the water, aided at the outset, probably, by a volcanic up- 
heaval of nature, by which the rocks were partially riven. 
Ripple marks are visible throughout the chasm at every 



AUSABLE CHASM. 261 

Stage of its height, and geologists have found numerous 
specimens of bivalvular moUusks, termed lingulae. 

" To adequately describe all the freaks of nature here 
would require a book rather than the brief compass of a 
magazine article, and we must hurry on, merely naming 
Mystic Gorge, a deep lateral fissure extending on both 
sides of the river ; Cape Eternity, a beetling promontory 
on the side opposite to the spectator ; Hyde's Cave, an- 
other rift in the rocks forming a double cave ; Castle Rock, 
Tarpeian Cliff and Druid Rock. 

"The gallery of the Via Mala, however, merits especial 
mention, since it distinguishes Ausable above every other 
glen in this country yet opened, and affiliates it to the 
famous Splugen Pass and Gorge du Trient in Switzerland. 
Until last year this portion of the Chasm was inaccessible 
to visitors, and could only be viewed from a distance, 
above or below ; now it is easy of access, and as safe, even 
for a child, as any other section. At a height of fifty feet 
above the stream and for a distance of more than one 
hundred feet in length, a substantial gallery is firmly fixed 
by bolts into the perpendicular wall of the gorge. Here 
you view this lusus naturcR with unrivaled facilities for 
studying its rock revelations — the cliffs above, the water 
below, and the laminae of the strata at their various stages 
up to the summit. My companion had returned but a 
month prior to this time from the usual European tour, in- 
cluding a run through Switzerland and over the Alps into 
Italy, and he pronounced Ausable Chasm unparalleled this 
side of the canyons of the Yellowstone in America, and 
only equaled by them, and by the noted Alpine passes in 
Switzerland. 

" A host of grotesque natural curiosities discoverable 
from this point onward can be here merely named, such as 
Smugglers' Pass, Moorish Castle, the Alcove, the Study, 
and Decoy Ledge. The Reception Room is formed by a 
ledge of sandstone rock overhanging the path, and in 
which there are numerous cavities, that visitors have util- 
ized by making receptacles for their cards. I found auto- 
graphs in the English, Japanese and Turkish languages, 
from which it is apparent that the fame of this Chasm has 



282 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

reached from the Occident to the orient. These cavities 
are protected from both wind and weather, and their ac- 
cumulations grow richer with each day's throng of visitors. 

*' Descending the last stairway in the gorge we arrive at 
Old Point Comfort, opposite Sentinel, Table and Cathedral 
Rocks, and the point of embarkation for the boat-ride 
through the flume. (Fare, 50 cts.) Here we gained an 
experience in navigation which at first, from its perfect 
novelty, was bewildering, but once enjoyed, was sought 
after again and again. 

" This boat ride was strange enough. The boat itself 
was of the most primitive pattern, flat-bottomed, square at 
both ends, and with no pretensions to either grace or 
beauty. But when seated in it we could see nothing ex- 
cept the colossal walls and peaks about us, and were lost 
in admiration and in anticipation of the yet stranger 
scenes beyond. In a moment the boat was loosed from its 
moorings, and guided by the boatman, began to descend 
with the current through the cavernous fissure. It seemed 
like drifting through the nether world. The walls arose 
perpendicularly on either side to the height of one hundred 
and seventy- five feet, and gradually contracted until ten 
feet would measure the gap between them. 

" During this ride the voyager cannot realize his posi- 
tion. He glides for a distance of one thousand feet, first 
over rapid and then placid waters, shut in by cyclopean 
walls which as he advances between them close upon him, 
the sky above reduced to a ribbon's breadth, and the water 
almost literally running upon its edge, being fourteen feet 
wide and forty feet in depth. It is the concluding and 
crowning feature of Ausable Chasm, and one of the mar- 
vels of picturesque America. 

" The ride ends most gracefully. As the boat glides 
from between the narrow walls it sweeps out into a charm- 
ing bay, termed the Basin, where the rock-architecture is 
imposing, the water as clear as crystal, and the rounded 
view one of romantic beauty. The origin of the French 
name of this stream, formerly called "Sandy River," be- 
came apparent here. Both its bed and the neighboring 
shores are covered with sand. Au Sable (pronounced, 



AUSABLE CHASM. 283 

O-sahb'-l) i?/e'z>r^ signifies " the sand river," or "river of 
sand." The flinty particles are all the results of erosion, 
the wearing away of the rocks by the water. At different 
points farther down the stream, and also at its mouth, 
there are numerous beautiful sandy bars. 

" The following stories connected with the glen are well 
authenticated. Until a few years ago a bridge spanned 
the Chasm at the point where it is narrowest. This bridge 
was suffered to decay, and was finally disused. There re- 
mained of it at last only a single squared girder. Over 
this a mad-cap boy would sometimes venture, for a freak, 
but none were known to cross by it except such as were 
possessed of the insanity of youth. One dark night a 
clergyman on horseback approached it. He had been ab- 
sent abroad for several years. When he had been familiar 
with this section of country the A usable bridge was the 
usual avenue of approach to his home. He knew nothing 
of its subsequent ruin. Upon drawing near it in the dark- 
ness he confidently spurred his horse onward. When the 
horse's hoofs struck the single beam which remained of the 
bridge the rider sought to penetrate the darkness, but 
could not. Dropping the reins on the neck of his brave 
steed, he abandoned his thoughts to reverie. He was pass- 
ing over the wild gorge of the Ausable, with which he had 
oeen acquainted in youth and early manhood, and where 
he had indulged in many a perilous adventure, long before 
the Chasm had been prepared by art for the easy access of 
the timorous visitor. How many changes he might find 
upon his return — old faces buried, old landmarks removed, 
old houses fallen into decay. Before he had concluded 
this waking dream the hoofs of his trusty animal no longer 
echoed upon the bridge, but struck the solid ground 
upon the other side. He was safely over, without an in- 
timation that he had risked the smallest danger. Not 
until he had reached his home, and told by what route he 
had come, did he learn of his tremendous peril. The next 
morning, when he reviewed, by the light of day, the thread- 
like pathway over which he had gone, his knees smote to- 
gether, and he uttered a prayer of thanksgiving for deliver- 
ance from a horrible death. 



284 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

" A good-for-nothing character in the neighborhood was 
once caught in the act of theft, near the bridge just de- 
scribed, in the days when it was the usual avenue of travel. 
It having been playfully suggested by some one that his 
morals might be improved by suspending him by the heels 
for a brief season from the bridge over the Chasm, the 
punishment was instantly inflicted. The cure proved 
effectual, but the thief's morals were reformed at the ex- 
pense of his intellect, for he became a confirmed, though 
inoffensive, idiot. 

" A tragedy occurred not many years ago in the Chasm 
opposite Table Rock, which was formerly reached by walk- 
ing upon a log over the Chasm, and was a favorite but 
somewhat dangerous resort of picnic parties, until this 
tragic event arrested the habit. Mr. Dyer, an Episcopal 
minister, was in the act of leading a lady across this log, 
when suddenly losing his balance he fell into the rushing 
torrent, and never rose to the surface, nor was his body 
seen by the horror-stricken spectators until days after- 
wards, when it was found far below upon a shallow in the 
river. The beautiful and spacious woods on the rocks 
above, which have been neatly prepared for the purpose, 
are usually the scene of these festive gatherings, where 
often, on a bright summer day, several parties of pleasure 
seekers may be seen enjoying a healthful recreation and 
the beauties of the place, each, unless they choose to 
fraternize, remaining distinct, and undisturbed in their 
movements. 

" In the way of description and adventure much more 
might be written, but it is well to leave something to be 
discovered by the reader when he shall explore its wonders 
for himself."* 

In the Chasm, stairways, bridges, railings and galleries 
have been built, and other improvements made by the pro- 
prietors, which, together, enable the visitor to pass through 
its entire length, with the assistance of a boat, with ease 
and in safety. 

*Upper AusaWe Cliasm has lately toeen opened to the pal)lic. A beautiful 
cascade, Alice Fall, and a t>oat ride of % of a mile are among- its attractions. 
A pulp mill near this waterfall detracts much from its beauty and wildness. 



AUSABLE CHASM. LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 285 

Lying almost upon the line of one of the most thronged 
routes of pleasure travel on the continent, and reached 
with every desirable facility,— and, in addition, associated 
with numerous and varied other objects of mterest, — it is 
surprising that any tourist, in pursuit of the beautiful 
and imposing in nature, should pass through Lake Cham- 
plain without pausing and turning aside to explore the 
Chasm of the Ausable. It may be reached by a pleasant 
steamboat excursion from Burlington, or Plattsburg to Port 
Kent ; or by a delightful carriage ride of 12 m. from Platts- 
burg. If preferred the Ausable Branch R. R. will take the 
traveler to the depot at Peru, whence he will be conveyed 
by livery via Keeseville to the Chasm, or directly there ; a 
distance of about 7 m. But the only convenient mode of 
transit is from Port Kent. Therefore it is the usual course 
of the tourist to leave the steamer, or the cars on the D. & 
H. R. R. at that place and proceed at once to the scene, 
via the K , A. C, & L. C. R. R. (3 m.), and visit it at 
greater leisure, as it claims more than a transient and cur- 
sory examination The superior hotel, the interesting ob- 
jects of attraction, and the pleasant drives in the vicinity 
render a sojourn there peculiarly agreeable. The hotel 
coach meets the cars at the Chasm Station, only a few rods 
N. (fare, 15 cents ; round-trip, 25 cents), and private car- 
riages may always be ordered to accommodate individuals 
or parties. 

The Lake View House, owned by the proprietors of 
Ausable Chasm, stands near this glen, and from its elevat- 
ed situation commands entrancing views of Lake Cham- 
plain (500 ft. below) the Green Mountains, and the Adiron- 
dacks. It is one of the most finely situated hotels America 
contains. It has every modern appliance, including gas, 
hot and cold water baths on each floor, telephone, tele- 
graph, bowling-alleys, billiard room, tennis-court and livery 
stable, and is first class in every particular. With its cot- 
tages it offers entertainment to 100 guests. With the vari- 
ous attractions the vicinity offers, it is a bewitching spot 
where one may while away the summer months. P. O. 
Ausable Chasm, N. Y. 



286 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Keeseville (named from John Keese, the original pro- 
prietor), an important manufacturing village, located on 
both sides of the Ausable, enjo5's a situation of great beau- 
ty and picturesqueness. Its streets are adorned with taste- 
ful residences and stately business blocks. Being the cen- 
ter and market of an extensive iron district it teems with 
business activity. Among the objects worthy of inspection, 
in and around the village, may be named the twine, horse- 
shoe nail, and wire factories. 

The Essex Co. Republican, published here, is a sterling 
paper ably conducted, and invariably contains more news 
concerning the Adirondack Region than any other journal. 

The "Adirondack" (formerly "The Delmont ") is the 
leading hotel, and offers good inducements to permanent 
or transient guests. 

In the environs are many delightful drives to charming 
resorts (aside from Ausable Chasm, 2 m.) that we would 
gladly examine did space allow. Prospect Hill (i m.), 
Hallock Hill (3 m.), and the romantic gorge known as 
"Poke O'Moonshine," (a pocket edition of the Indian Pass,) 
7 m. S. on the road to Elizibethtown ([5 m. farther S.) 
are the most noteworthy points. 

Lying on the latter route, 2^ miles from Keeseville, is 
Auger Lake, a picturesque sheet enclosed by a frame of 
dark green woods, and whose winding shores and singular 
shape originated its name. Though only i^ m. long, it 
affords a coast line of over 6 miles. It is very prolific of 
large pickerel and black bass. 

Butternut Pond (^ by y^) S. of Auger L , and linked 
with it by a boatable channel i m. in length, is also famous 
for pickerel. 

South E. of Butternut P. are warm and Long Ponds ; 
and S. W. is Trout Pond. Two Story Pond lies S. W. of 
Long Pond. 

The Interlaken, a desirable and popular resort, is pleas- 
antly situated on a slight eminence on the northern end of 
Auger L., 80 rods from the shore. It commands a noble 
view of Poke O'Moonshine, Baldface, Bigelow and Ford- 
way Mountains, and also of those noted pinnacles of Ver- 



KEESEVILLE. AUGER LAKE. 287 

mont, Mansfield and Camel's Hump. On a clear day the 
spires of Burlington are visible from the house. This hotel 
offers good accommodations to loo guests. It is 3 stories 
in height and has 250 feet of verandas. Stairways on the 
outside of the building form perfect fire-escapes. The 
rooms are spacious and suitably furnished in the latest 
style. A farm of nearly 300 acres produces an abundance 
of good things for the table. In the list of attractions are 
included a lawn tennis-court, a bowling alley and a fleet of 
good boats. Near the house are beautiful pine groves, 
wherein delicious rambles and lounging on comfortable 
seats in leafy retreats are enjoyed. 

Within a few rods of the hotel there is an object of con- 
siderable interest styled " Auger Chasm." Through this 
deep and narrow cleft — flanked by perpendicular walls of 
solid rock — the outlet of the lake finds a passage. 

The drives in the neighborhood are varied and interest- 
ing. To Ausable Chasm the distance is 3^ m ; to Poke 
O'Mocnshine and Baldface Mt., 41^ m. ; to Elizabethtown, 
191^ m. ; to Hotel Champlain, iqI/^ miles. P. O. Keese- 
ville, N. Y. 

The distance from Keeseville to Plattsburg via Peru 
is 16 m., and 15 m. direct. To Rogers' Station (formerly 
" Point of Rocks "), where the route connects with the one 
from Plattsburg (Ausable Branch R. R ), it is an enchant- 
ing ride of 9 m. through the fascinating scenery of Ausable 
Valley ; the huge, symmetrical cone of Whiteface, glorious 
in its strength and beauty, ever facing us and forming an 
imposing feature in the landscape.* 

Miles. 
From Keeseville to L. Saranac L via Keene Valley, 50 

" Wilmington Pass, 45 

" Franklin Falls, 46 

" U. Saranac L. " Franklin Falls, qr 

" Paul Smith's, " " *' 48 



'Locust Hall, located on tliis road -ly^. in. above Keeseville. has been quife 
prominent as a summer resort. From here 4 m. of boatinj mav be en loved 
upon Ausable Elver. (P. O. Keeseville.! 



288 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The Keeseville, Ausable Chasm and Lake Cham- 
plain R. R , running from Port Kent (located on the Del- 
aware & HuDson R. R.) to Keeseville, will soon be 
extended to Lake Placid, via Keene Valley. There it will 
connect with the Saranac and Lake Placid R. R., which 
is linked with the Chateaugay, and the Adirondack & 
St. Lawrence Railways ; the latter with the Northern 
Adirondack and the "Great New York Central." 
Thus, by these combinations, almost endless possibilities in 
railroad traveling to, through, and from the Adirondacks will 
be afforded. (See pp. 175, 182, 185, 247.) 

Twenty-fifth. — Westport is pleasantly situated at the 
head of Northwest Bay, Lake Champlain, 26^ m. S. of 
Port Kent, and 50^ m. N. of Whitehall. Westport Inn, 
and the Richards House are the leading hotels. The dis- 
tance to Elizabethtown is 8 m. ; thence to Keene Center, 
12 m.; North Elba, 13 m.; Lower Saranac Lake, 10 m. 
Total 43 m. (See pp. 219 and 250.) 

Elizabethtown to New Russia, 4 m.; North Hudson, 16^ 
m.; Schroon River (" Root's), 2^ m. Total, 23 m. 

Elizabethtown (named from the wife of Wm. Gilliland, 
the noted pioneer; see p. 220), the county seat of Essex 
Co., is delightfully situated in " Pleasant Valley," upon the 
banks of Bouquet River,* a tributary of Lake Champlain. 
It is the favorite resort of many people of refinement, also 
of artists, who are attracted by the charms of the locality. 
After the summer season commences its hotels and even 
private houses are often thronged with visitors desirous of 
passing their vacations in the quiet enjoyment of mountain 
and valley scenery. H.ere in the beautiful cemetery lie the 
remains of Orlando Kellogg, who controlled the county 
politics for 20 years, representing his constituency in Con- 
gress through several terms, and being, above all, one of 

*sai(i to have been thus named hy Gilliland, because its banks when first 
visited were richly adorned with wild flowers. "Boquet," as it is usually 
spelled, is doubtless a corruption of "Bouquet." Some authorities assert that 
the name was derived from the French " baquet," signifying a trough. It is 
navigable for only 2 miles from its mouth. The remains of an intrench- 
ment constructed by Gen. Burgoyne give it considerable historic importance ; 
and here he made his memorable speech to his Indian allies, advising 
against indiscriminate slaughter. (Street.) The length of this stream \^ 
about 35 m. 



ELIZABETHTOWN. 289 

the noblest Specimens of that " noblest work of God — an 
honest man." 

Elizabethtown is rich in imposing and picturesque scen- 
ery. It is surrounded by spurs of the great Adirondack 
Range * On the western borders of the town are situated 
two of the most conspicuous summits of the group. The 
southern of these is also one of the highest, presenting 
when viewed from the Champlain steamers an apparent 
altitude scarcely less than that of Dix's Peak, which is but 
little inferior to the towering dome of Tahawus itself. This 
mountain or culmination of mountains has borne no name 
until recently, when several individuals christened it " The 
Giant of the Valley," though this title properly belongs 
and was first applied to Cobble Hill. A perpendicular 
wall 700 ft. high lies on its northern declivity. The other 
one of the two above named stands about 5 m. N. W. of 
the village, in prominent view, and is the greatly admired 
Hurricane Peak. (Ind., No-do-ne-yo, " Hill of the Wind.") 
Its pyramid of naked rock rises with beautiful symmetry 
from its densely wooded base, interlacing with a mountain- 
ous ridge stretching far to the N., but sinking rapidly, and 
in sonie parts perpendicularly, into the pass to Keene. Its 
summit, reached by a fatiguing walk and scramble up its 
steep acclivity, affords a prospect unsurpassed by that of 
any other Adirondack pinnacle, unless we except Dix's 
Peak or Whiteface Mountain. 

Cobble Hill, a remarkable pile of rocks i m. S. W. of the 
village, presents to the beholder a precipice on its eastern 
side of at least 200 ft. and a dome-shaped summit, crowned 
by a rounded knob, forming altogether one of the most 
peculiar features in the landscape. 

In the opposite direction, its dark and jagged sides lining 
the approach to EHzabethtown from the lake, rises isolated 
Raven Hill, sharply defined against the eastern sky. 

Wood Hill, N. E., with sloping flanks rising from the 
very skirts of the village, looks proudly down upon the 
two charming valleys that unite at its feet. 

*Five distinct and parallel mountain ranges, thougli bearing different 
names, popularly designated "The Adirondacks," pass through and are 
mostly comprised within the limits of Essex Co., a district that has received 
the appropriate appellation of the " Switzerland of America." 

25 



290 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

These, with other mountain peaks (including " McDon- 
ough," and " Saddle Back ") perhaps less imposing but not 
less distinguished for stately beauty, occurring in the grand 
panorama witnessed from the Windsor House, give to 
Elizabethtown a scenic fascination hardly exceeded by any 
village in the Adirondack Region. In the neighborhood 
are many delightful drives and rambles where the scenery 
is ever changing and full of native loveliness and mag- 
nificence. 

The Valley of the Bouquet, at the N. E. extremity of 
which the village stands and from which it received its 
early designation of "Pleasant Valley," extends S. W. 
about 8 m. and affords one of the most agreeable drives 
found in any locality. The winding of the river and the 
road varies the prospect with every few rods of progress 
till the eye and mind are almost bewildered by the sudden 
transitions from rock to dell ; from brawling brook to 
shady pool ; from precipitous mountain to gentle slope ■ 
from the luxuriant drapery of the dark green woods to 
waving cornfields and smiling meadows ; from quiet and 
romantic homesteads to the unromantic din of the iron 
forge. At its head the river in stormy passion rushes from 
its mountain fastnesses down through a deep and narrow 
gorge, over an inclined plane of rough and broken rocks, in- 
to the peaceful valley below. The descent is considerably 
more than 100 ft., and this wild, dark chasm (styled "Split 
Rock ;" 8 m. from the village), whose tumbling waters 
frighten the very echoes with their tumultuous voices, is 
very attractive to summer residents and picnic parties. 
Refreshments are obtainable here at a neat little restaurant 
imbosomed in trees. 

In other directions there are additional attractions for 
all who love to look upon the varied aspects of untamed 
nature. 

Lying 2 m. S. E. of the village is Little Pond ; and 7 m. 
farther in the same direction is Spring or Nichols' Pond. 

Some 6^ m. E. of S. of the village. Black or Lincoln 
Pond (i X }4), well stored with trout and pickerel, lies in 
sombre and tranquil repose. It offers equal pleasure to 



A GLIMPSE OF THE UPPER BOUQUET | 



i^P- 



'0-^Mm- 

^:j^ 



^Z ' -''- 






^w 



ABOVE SPLIT ROCK FALLS. 



r 




t 




m 





THE WINDSOR, ELIZABETHTOWN. BOUQUET RIVER. 



THE WINDSOR. ELIZABETHTOWN. 29I 

the angler and to boating parties, and is frequently the 
chosen theater of festive gatherings. (Hotel there.) 

Two m. S. E. of Lincoln P. is Long Pond, from which 
it is about 2 m. S. E. to Barton Pond — the latter in a di- 
rect course, 8 m. from Elizabethtown. 

In the S. W. part of the town, New Pond (i x yi), sur- 
rounded by mountain peaks and irreclaimable forests, is 
famous for the peculiar flavor of its trout and for the great 
number taken from its depths. It is a popular resort for 
citizens and summer visitors, who often encamp for a night 
or more upon its wild and solitary shores. It is about 10 
m. from Elizabethtown, and two m. S. of Split Rock Falls. 

Bouquet River, flowing through the village, offers a 
straight, clean course of 3 m. to the oarsman, as well as 
fine opportunities to the fisherman. 

For the information of those commercially inclined we 
would state that the manufacture of iron is the leading 
pursuit in this town ; extensive beds of the ore abounding 
within its limits. In the S.-eastern part, a hill 200 ft. high, 
covering 40 acres, is supposed to be nearly a solid mass of 
iron, except a slight covering of drift. 

The Windsor, Orlando Kellogg proprietor, is located on 
a plateau 50 ft. above the Bouquet. This commodious and 
extensive establishment is not only the leading hotel of 
Elizabethtown but is one of the most popular in the entire 
region. It consists of four connected buildings three sto- 
ries in height, each surmounted with an observatory, and 
fronted with broad, double verandas, — forming in its en- 
tirety a most attractive group, and offering charming views 
in every direction. Since its repeated enlargement it is 
complete in all its appointments and supplied with every 
modern elegancy. It now more than ever offers a most 
desirable residence to invalids visiting this healthful cli- 
mate or tourists seeking magnificent scenery. It furnishes 
apartments en suite for families and rooms for single gen- 
tlemen appropriately equipped. It has thorough sanitary 
arrangements; running spring water (proved by analysis to 
to be of marvelous purity); hot, and cold water baths ; 
reading and smoking rooms ; electric bells ; telegraph, ex- 
press and ticket office ; semi-daily mails. 



292 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Patrons of the Windsor are favored with an extraordi- 
nary variety of diversions. A well-selected orchestra gives 
daily concerts on the verandas or in the parlors, and pro- 
vides fine music for evening hops and amateur entertain- 
ments in the recreation hall. A billiard-room, a bowling- 
alley, a lawn-tennis court and croquet grounds invite the 
attention of those who find delight in such amusements. 
Riding, driving, rambling and boating contribute to the 
pleasure of many of the visitors. 

The table is supplied with fresh eggs, milk, cream, but- 
ter, and vegetables from the hotel- farm, and dainty trout 
from the private fish-pond. The attendance is excellent, 
and the cuisine all that can be desired. At no other hostel- 
ry are the wishes and comfort of guests (it receives nearly 
300) more carefully regarded. Mr. Kellogg (a descendant 
of Hon. Orlando Kellogg) by his enterprise, and experience 
of 25 years, is deserving the large patronage given him by 
distinguished visitors. Guides, saddle-horses, carriages, 
buck-boards, stylish turnouts, experienced drivers, and 
every requisite for mountain-excursions or for visiting the 
beautiful environs are obtained here at reasonable prices. 

The Mansion House, a few rods east of the Windsor, 
has long enjoyed an excellent reputation and is well pat- 
ronized throughout the season. It has recently been en- 
larged, remodeled and furnished in the latest style. It now 
affords the best of fare ; airy and spacious rooms ; orches- 
tral music in the fine " Music Hall ;" every kind of amuse- 
ment; first-class conveyances ; telegraphic communication 
and superior entertainment (with its connecting cottages) 
to 150 guests. All stopping here will appreciate its home- 
like charm. 

Maplewood Inn (formerly " Valley House "), located at 
the foot of the plateau and near the center of the village, 
is also a very desirable summer-home. It is especially 
adapted to the wants of those seeking repose; and the oc- 
cupants of the well-furnished rooms of this pleasant stop- 
ping-place may while away the days or weeks of their va- 
cation in quiet enjoyment. 



ELIZABETHTOWN. POKE O MOONSHINE. 

Distances from Elizabethtown to 



293 



MILES. 



Westport Station, 


7 


Westport Steamboat Landing, 


8 


Keene Center, ... 


12 


Keene Valley Village, 


• 12^ 


St. Hubert's Inn, (Head of Keene Valley) 


i5>^ 


Lower Ausable Lake, 


19 


Cascade Lake House, (Edmund Ponds) 


. 18 


Mountain View House, 


22 


North Elba, . . ■ ... 


2q 


Lake Placid, .... 


27 • 


Lower Saranac Lake, 


35 


Saranac Inn, (Upper Saranac Lake) 


44 


Paul Smith's, .... 


. 48 


Saranac Club House, (" Bartlett's ") 


47 


Keeseville, ..... 


22 


Ausable Chasm, . . . . 


23 


Schroon Lake, . . . 


32 


Adirondack Lodge, (Clear Lake) 


27^ 



A mail stage running from Schroon Lake and other 
southern towns to Keeseville (22 m.) passes through Eliza- 
bethtown on alternate days. In either direction the ride 
is delightful. 

Going to the N. the route lies through the wild gorge of 
"Poke O'Moonshine" (15 m.). The W. side of this pro- 
found and romantic ravine is the E. wall of the broad, level 
summit bearing that name, attaining an elevation of over 
2,000. ft.* Its overhanging precipices, towering to a dizzy 
height above the road, form a most sublime spectacle. 
(See p. 286 ) 

Traveling southward we pass through the charming scen- 
ery of New Russia ; and farther on pause to enjoy the im- 
pressive picture presented by Dix's Peak, Giant of the 
Valley, Macomb's Mt., Bald Peak, and other lofty Titans 
uprearing their mighty forms in majestic prominence 
against the western sky. 

Where the road departs from Bouquet River, near Put- 
nam's Mills, 10 or 12 m. from Elizabethtown, access may 

*Street says that this singular mountain (Poke O'Moonshine) was so 
named from its dark and pokerish appearance. 



294 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

be gained to Hunter's Pass by following the course of the 
stream N. W. a few miles. Pursuing our way we soon 
reach the large iron works at Dead Water, and anon the 
little hamlet of North Hudson, and " Root's Place " at 
Schroon River, from which Clear Pond and Elk Lake, and 
the great natural wonders near them are visited. 

Elizabethtown is easily accessible to tourists approach- 
ing by way of Lake Champlain. Cars and steamers arrive at 
Westport from the N. and S. several times a day, and are 
there met by the Windsor tally-ho coaches, with four and 
six horses, which twice daily during the summer and fall 
seasons convey passengers over a fine road, through the 
Raven Pass, to Elizabethtown (fare ^r.oo), affording, with 
the stage connection, easy and pleasant transportation to 
Lake Placid, via. those interesting resorts, Keene Valley, 
the Cascade Lakes and Mountain View. 

Concord stages run daily from Elizabethtown to Keene 
Center and Keene Valley, (village) fare, $1.50; Cascadeville, 
("Edmund Ponds,") $2.00 ; Mountain View House, $2,50; 
(connects with stages to Adirondack Lodge at Torrance 
Corners, ^2.50;) to Lake Placid, $3.00; where cars are 
taken for Saranac Lake Village, and stage thence for Lower 
Saranac Lake. (See p. 250). 

This is undoubtedly the shortest and most picturesque 
avenue from Lake Champlain to the Saranac Lakes. In 
few journeys of similar length do we meet with so many 
noble pictures of mountain scenery. The approach, par- 
ticularly, to North Elba — across Keene Valley and through 
the "Edmund Ponds Pass" — is a masterpiece of beauty 
and grandeur. At every turn until we reach the " Plains 
of Abraham," (North Elba) fresh surprises are presented 
to the admiring eye that linger in the memory long after 
the various scenes have faded from view. For a long 
distance between Elizabethtown and Keene Valley, the 
road lies almost in the shadow of the bold mountain-preci- 
pice known as Little Pitch Off Mt., a spur of Mt. Hurri- 
cane, and the high ground not far beyond on the route, 
perhaps best reveals the matchless charms of the Keene 
district and the majestic presence of Mt. Whiteface, "the 
lonely chief of the northern peaks.'^ 




lU 



H < 
^ > 

> in 



KEENE VALLEY. 



295 



Within the town of Keene the Adirondack Range reaches 
its loftiest culminations, and Keene Valley is one of the 
most enchanting of all the nooks in this region of wildness 
and beauty.* No place commands more glorious panoramic 
views. The entire horizon is grandly serrated with lofty 
pinnacles. It is hemmed in and overlooked by Camel's 
Hump, ("Noon Mark"t), Haystack, Giant of the Valley, 
Basin, Hurricane, Colvin, The Gothics, Wolf's Jaws, Sad- 
dle Back, Nipple Top, Slide, Sentinel, Porter, Hopkins', 
Baxter's, ("Balcony,") Bald, and Dix's Peaks ; and, with 
his mighty head uplifted above the dark shoulders of his 
subordinates, Tahawus, "The Cleaver of the Clouds," the 
monarch of these almost countless peaks, this veritable 
"Legion of Five Hundred."! So close together are 
some of these pyramidal towers, that the valley which they 
overshadow, is in certain places scarcely of sufficient width 
to accommodate both the road and the river (Ausable). 
The narrow district thus encompassed, about 8 m. in 
length, possesses, with its environs, a richer variety 
of natural beauties in the way of lake, mountain, chasm 
and cascade, than any other section of equal extent within 
the boundaries of these "Northern Wilds." A full descrip- 
tion of the delightful rambles and the superlative attrac- 
tions belonging to the neighborhood would require more 
space than the size of our volume will allow. We can but 
briefly allude to its most important features. 

Clifford Falls, upon an affluent of the Ausable, 2 m. N. 
W. of Keene Center^ are reached by wagon-road, a branch 
of the North Elba route. Their height is about 60 ft. and 
the wild chasm into which they pour, is itself one of the 
most attractive objects of this locality. From the bridge 
spanning the gorge we have a magnificent view of these 
falls. 

Sherburne Falls, upon the Ausable, are >^ m. S. of Keene 
Center near the main road. Their greatest height is about 
50 ft., and they present a rich array of charming scenery. 

*Keene Valley was formerly called "Keene Flats." 

t Camel's Hump Is commonly termed "The Dial," or "Noon Mark," be- 
cause the sun stands directly over its crest at 12 o'clock. 

X Tahawus is the Indian word for Mt. Marcy, signifying, '•'■He splils the 
Sky.'' "Grand name for the soaring eagle of the stately Adlrondacks." 



296 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Haine'?, or more correctly, Hull's Falls, also upon the 
Ausable, near the highway, ()^ m. S. of Sherburne Falls, are 
thus described by the spicy and brilliant pen of a lady 
correspondent of the Brooklyn Union : — * 

"After a drive of 3 m. along the ever-pleasant Ausable, 
after fording the rushing river to their unspeakable conster- 
nation and delight, after this and many more little adven- 
tures had been passed or forgotten, we came to Hull's Falls. 

"Now, what I particularly admire in the Adirondack 
Region is this : — the people never brag. Reason, — they 
have plenty to brag about ; consequently they never do it. 
In other places you hear unlimited eloquence lavished upon 
a lake (now I'm thinking of Saratoga; but don't mention 
it), and you take a long drive to see a miserable, stupid, 
low-banked little affair, no more to be compared to the 
Saranacs or Placid than I am to Hercules, or any other 
man. Or you are carried through perspiring distances to 
see a waterfall, and you behold a wretched little stream 
leaking over a i^^^ rocks in a fit of placid despair. Here, 
on the contrary, they mention incidentall)'-, when you tell 
them on what road you propose to drive, 'Wal, there's some ' 
falls along there, some folks think rather handsome ; p'raps 
you'd like to look at 'em as you go by.' You deign to cast 
a casual glance at the river occasionally on the strength of 
this mild suggestion, and you are astonished with a vision 
of a second Trenton. Hull's Falls are not so very high — 
not more than 30 or 40 ft. of sheer pitch, I should think, 
and then 10 or 20 more of roaring broken torrents over 
enormous rocks — but they are very grand indeed. There 
are the green wooded banks of the stream above the old 
log bridge, and the noisy rapids tearing along, and just 
below the bridge down go these fearful masses of rock, and 
roaring, frantic, foaming water, and below them again the 
straight grey mountain walls towering up against the blue 
sky. They are like the great fall at Trenton — not quite so 
wide, and the amber color of the water not quite so deep, 
but with a more savage wildness of expression, a greater 

*Tliis appeared in the fourtli edition of this work, issued in 1875. and be- 
fore we had visited Keene Valley. But after viewing this cascade, we have 
no better description of it to offer. 



KEENE VALLEY. ORSON S. PHELPS. 297 

ruggedness of rock and ferocity of water well suited to 
their wild surroundings." 

Phelps' Falls, so named for the distinguished guide, 
Orson S. Phelps, of whom we shall have more to say, are 
situated upon a little stream near its entrance into the Au- 
sable, a short distance N. of Keene Valley (village) The 
old hunter's habitation stands within a few rods of the 
falls, which have a descent of loo ft. Here, too, much 
that is lovely and romantic fills the scene. 

Ascending, with slight effort, Prospect Hill, rising from this 
place, we are rewarded by the grandest prospect oi mountain 
scenery presented from any easily ascended elevation in 
Keene Valley. Many of the great peaks of the region are 
in full view, the mighty Tahawus being the chief attraction 
among his gigantic neighbors. Village, valley, and river, 
interspersed with emerald fields graced with clusters of 
luxuriant trees, gleaming cottages, and graceful foot- 
bridges, add so many charms to the picture. 

Three or four miles from the mouth of John's Brook 
(which also empties into the Ausable) are Big Falls ; and 
3 or 4 miles still further up that trout-haunted stream are 
Bushnell's Falls. Both are perfectly sequestered and fas- 
cinating. They are accessible only by pathway. 

About 40 r. W. of the road leading to the Ausable Lakes, 
and near St. Hubert's Cottage, are Russell Falls. Here 
the Ausable shoots with tremendous velocity through a 
winding granite pass J^ of a mile in extent, whose massive 
walls tower upward perhaps 200 ft. above the thundering 
torrent. Within this distance the river falls about 150 ft. 
but makes no perpendicular leap of over 25 ft. At one 
place, about midway of the gorge, it descends some 50 fr. 
within 6 or 8 r. forming a most beautiful circular cascade. 
So narrow is this chasm, that it is very hazardous if not 
impracticable for one to pass through it when the stream is 
high. 

Beaver Meadow Falls, i ^ or 2 m. further up the Ausa- 
ble, strikingly resemble Russell Falls, but are on a more 
extended scale. Good paths lead to them from the road, 
which passes within 50 to 80 r. of the place. The river 



298 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

falls 378 ft. between Lower Ausable Lake and St. Hubert's 
Cottage, which includes the two cascades just named. 

One-half m. E. of the Ausable Lake road, and within 80 
rods of "Smith Beede's ^/^ place," hidden among the cliffs 
and forests, on the S. W. flank of Giant of the Valley, an- 
other cascade will be found, still more remarkable and 
impressive, namely, Beede's or Roaring Brook Falls. 

Let us quote again in reference to this marvel. "Leaving 
Hull's Falls behind, we passed through leafy woods along 
the river, here in a gentler mood.* Lovely openings in the 
soft, green foliage showed us sweet, serene glimpses of nar- 
row intervale dotted with feathery elms and glowing maples 
revealing little vistas of sunlit meadow-beauty fit for an 
English park, reminding us of Tennyson's landscape, 
where 



•'Grey twilight poured, 



On dewy pastures, dewy trees. 

Softer than sleep — all things in order stored, 

A haunt of ancient Peace.' 

"At last, after a walk about twice as long as we ex- 
pected, we came upon the falls — Roaring Brook Falls, I 
believe they are called — and all perils of flood and field 
were at once forgotten. The scenery was like Bash-bish, 
but much finer, and at the head of the gorge, right before 
it, towered an immense perpendicular granite wall, fully 
300 ft. high, through a narrow cleft in which fell the water 
sheer from the top to the rocks at our feet, dashed into 
millions of sparkling drops long ere it touched the bottom. 
I cannot imagine that the Staubach can be any grander, 
and the fall at Bash-bish fades into insignificance before 
this wonderful leap. You can see the top and bottom of 
the fall for some distance down the stream, but a twist in 
the chasm prevents your seeing it in its whole extent unless 
you climb a pinnacle of rock just where the water strikes 
the earth again. Here you see the whole length of this 
glorious cascade from its first plunge over the brow of the 
precipice — so high above you that the trees which crown 
it look like shrubs — down to the gathering of the scattered 

*Ausal)le River, In tlie vicinity of the village of Keene Valley, is a shal- 
low, fretful stream, hut holds many trout. 



KEENE VALLEY. ROARING BROOK FALLS. 299 

drops below your feet, whence they dash from rock to rock, 
making miniature falls and cool, trembling pools for 200 ft! 
more of slow and gradual descent. Through a great extent 
of its course a groove 5 ft. in depth has been worn into the 
solid rock by the force of the water. 

"While we looked and admired and did homage, the 
boys, whom we had pressed into our service, having first 
inquired if we thought it would be very wicked to make a 
fishing rod on Sunday, caught us a string of trout — such 
speckled beauties,— with which we went home rejoicing; and 
even the frightful fords were trampled through with satis- 
fied hearts, though bruised and aching feet, after such a 
feast of beauty as we had enjoyed that morning. The 
trout graced our tea-table, a welcome addition to its 
homely fare, for here is no pampering of dainty appetites, 
except with delicious cream and eggs and butter." — L. F. 
Wagons approach within 20 rods of Roaring Brook Falls. 

Chapel Pond ( J^ x ^), a source of Roaring Brook, lying 
I m. E. of these falls, in a narrow and profound ravine 
between Ausable and Bouquet Rivers, is reached by a 
good path, and also by road. This singular, cedar- fringed, 
and precipice-environed sheet (held in the embrace of 
Giant-of-the-Valley, Bald Peak, and Camel's Hump,) was 
named from a pioneer- hunter who formerly dwelt in this 
section. The scenery here is weird, massive, desolate; 
inspiring one with gloom, as well as admiration. Naked 
walls of rock rise to an unbroken height of from 200 to 600 
ft. above the deep and dusky waters* This lakelet is fed 
by two other little tarns, most worthy objects of the ex- 
plorer's attention. One of them (about 20 r. in diameter,) 
lies % m N. E. and nestles in a little nook set in the point 
of a mountain — like a diamond in a mass of agate — and at 
an elevation of nearly 500 ft. above Chapel P. An ir- 
regular, precipitous wall, like solid masonry, forms its savage 
and romantic surrounding. The other pond (yi x yi) is 
200 fc. higher still, lying almost perpendicular over Chapel 
P., and is reached by a winding trail of ^ m. This lonely 
basin is on the side of the Giant, and is called the " Giant's 
Washbowl." Its borders are less abrupt and interesting, 

* Wliltefisli are here found in atiunaaEce. 



300 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

but nevertheless, with its terraced, rock-bound shores, it is 
wildly attractive. It is said that a pebble may be tossed 
from the margin of the Washbowl into Chapel Pond. 

One and a half miles S. E. of Chapel P. is Round or 
Bullet Pond (/^ x ^), serving as a fountain-head of Bouquet 
R. In the vicinity are the Twin Ponds. 

Not far from Roaring Brook Falls, S. W., (perhaps ^ or 
^ m ) and within a few rods of the Ausable Lake road, 
are two other interesting objects for contemplation, viz : 
Gill Brook Flume, and the exquisite cascade, Artist's Falls. 
From them leads a blind and rugged trail S. to still another 
natural wonder, yet to be examined, namely, the "Hunter's 
Pass." 

Other scenes of equal beauty are revealed to those who 
penetrate more deeply into these wooded solitudes. It has 
been beautifully expressed that " Nature cunningly hides 
the gems of her landscape a little away from the noisy and 
dusty paths, and imposes the condition of leisure, calmness 
of mind, and reverent seeking, before they shall be en- 
joyed." — [Thomas Starr King.] 

The Village of Keene Valley is on the W. side of Ausable 
River, and 3 m. from the head of this famous vale. 
It has one or two churches, a good school, a public hall, 
and several stores. It has become a very popular and 
fashionable resort. 

A large number of city people of wealth and refinement, 
charmed with the beauties of this locality, have erected 
elegant summer cottages in the Valley. Among them may 
be named John Matthews, Dr. Smith, L. D. Ranney, 
Timothy Ranney, Wm. H. Dodge, Mr. Thomas, J. Gold- 
man, C. D. Wood, Dr. Alder ; the two noted artists, A. H. 
Wynant, and R. M. Shurtleff, and Salvador De Mendonca, 
the Brazilian Minister to the United States. 

A large mound near the village, evidently artificial, in- 
dicates that a pre-historic race may have inhabited this 
section. 

Very desirable hotels and boarding-houses, affording 
agreeable quarters to sojourners here, add much to the 



KEENE VALLEY, 30I 

allurements of the locality. The mo3t important of these 
we will enumerate: — 

The Estes House is i m. N. of the village on the E. side 
of the river and at the base of Prospect Hill. It has a 
pleasing situation in the midst of a smiling meadow bor- 
dered with thrifty trees — inviting groves not far away. 
The scenery witnessed at this house is varied, picturesque, 
lovely. Nearly all the mountains surveyed from the sum- 
mit of Prospect Hill are visible, and it is claimed that 
no other hotel in the Valley commands a perfect view of 
Marcy. Spacious rooms — some with fire-places, — pure 
spring-water; tennis, ball and croqiet grounds; a good 
livery and free carriage ride to church on Sunday, are 
among the advantages offered. The connecting farm has 
much to do with the well supplied table. It is a quiet and 
desirable retreat, especially for families and children. It 
receives 50 guests. 

The Tahawus House standing in the southern part of the 
village has been in successful operation for a quarter of a 
century, and now more than ever merits the patronage of 
the health and pleasure-seeking community. With the 
recurrence of each season every convenience and improve- 
ment that experience could suggest, and the increasing 
number of guests seemed to require, have been adopted. 
Thus it happens that since the first edition of this book 
was issued, in 1872,: the quaint, old building, by repeated 
changes and enlargement, 'has been transformed into a 
capacious! and 'showy structure with the suitable furnishing, 
belonging to a high class resort. We will not enumerate 
its various appliances,: but will name, among its attractions, 
a spacious^ hall for < dancing and entertainments, with a 
large stage, and also scenery. By ascending to the lofty, 
observatory; a wonderful panorama will be enjoyed. The 
prdductive farm under the; same management is an im- 
portant a;dj unct to the ; place. Mountain-springs supply 
the house with pure water. 1 Every opportunity is afforded 
for recreation. With its several cottages it has accommo- 
dations for 5tbout 2jOo guests. Camping outfits, but no 
liquors^ are furnished on demand. A good livery affords 
perfect facilities for riding, and carriages meet trains or 



302 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



steamers at Westport when due notice is given. The pro- 
prietor gives his personal attention to his patrons and is 
very popular with the traveling public. 

The Adirondack House (formerly " Blin's ") is located 
on an eminence rising a short distance W. of the village, 
on the road leading to the John's Brook valley. Few sites 
afford finer exhibitions of natural charms than that occupied 
by this commodious hotel. This establishment is a large 
three-story structure, with several wings attached, offering, 
with its 300 feet of verandas, agreeable shade and prom- 
enades. Since the construction of the main building in 
1882, it has received extensive additions and has recently 
been remodeled with special reference to the requirements 
of summer visitors. Running spring-water will be found 
on every floor and the sanitary system is unexcelled. It is 
appropriately furnished, and is a model of neatness and 
comfort. It has acquired high reputation for its excellent 
table and able management. A fine vegetable garden 
gives bountiful variety to the bill of fare. Here, 250 guests 
will find hearty welcome and abundant cheer. Various 
diversions contribute to the enjoyment of the patrons. 
Carriages, saddle-horses, and camp equipments are furnish- 
ed to order; also conveyances to meet parties at Westport. 
There is a telegraph in the house. 

One of the first places opened for the entertainment of 
tourists in Keene Valley was that of Henry Washbond, 
situated on the main road about )^ m. S. of the Tahawus. 
For many years the proprietor faithfully attended to the 
wants of his patrons, and finally increasing numbers in- 
duced him to erect a building better adapted to the neces- 
sities of the traveler, which was entitled " Maple Grove 
Cottage." The old farm-house where many a good meal 
has been taken, we believe still remains. And now, a score 
of years afterward, the remembrance of Mrs. Washbond's 
excellent cookery sharpens the appetite of the writer. The 
location is very pleasing, and it is rendered emphatically 
so by the beautiful grove adjacent. The view from the 
piazza of the Cottage is one of the most charming that can 
be enjoyed. 

In the rear of the buildings, only a few rods distant, is 



KEENE VALLEY. 303 

"Washbond's Flume," a wild, secluded ravine through 
which rushes an impetuous mountain-stream, forming a 
scene of singular and romantic beauty. 

Flume Cottage is located near the mouth of this glen, 
and in appearance, reminds one of a Swiss chalet. It is 
an ideal summer resting-place, devoid of the bustle and 
ostentation that characterize the larger hotels, and offers 
superior attractions akin to home-life. Rooms, exceed- 
ingly neat, furnished with a nice regard to the wants of the 
tourist, and a well-spread table of wholesome food, offer 
all that comfort or any reasonable taste may require. The 
Cottage is a favorite resort of people of culture and of 
quiet-loving travelers, who are enthusiastic in its praise. 
It is strictly exclusive in its regulations. Strangers, unless 
a favorable knowledge of their standing has been acquired, 
will not be entertained. Infants and Hebrews will knock 
vainly for admission. The usual superb valley and moun- 
tain views, — equal to the best — are here enjoyed. It en- 
tertains about 40 guests and is recommended for a pro- 
longed stay. 

Want of space prevents our even alluding to other 
worthy boarding places in and near the village. (P. O., 
Keene Valley, N. Y.) 

Stages for Westport, the R. R. Station and Steamboat 
Landing at Lake Champlain, call at all of these houses. 
Fare, $2.50. Also for Lower Ausable Lake. Fare for 
round trip, fi.25. Likewise for Ausable Forks. Fare, 
about $2.00. (See p. 276.) 

St. Hubert's Cottage is on the main road 2^ m. 
S. of the village. This pleasant summer retreat has been 
known to the traveling public for many years. The prop- 
erty was originally owned by Phineas Beede and after his 
death it was called "The Widow Beede's Place." Recently 
it has received its present name which seems to be a favor- 
ite appellation of the owners, who are also proprietors of 
Si. Hubert's Inn. The "Cottage" may be considered a 
remote annex of the principal establishment. It has lately 
been enlarged and fitted up with modern improvements. 
The outlook from the grounds is thoroughly delightful. 
(P. O., Beede, N. Y.) 



394, THE ADIRONDACKS. 

St. Hubert's Inn, a large and imposing edifice, rears its 
stately proportions on "Keene Heights," a mountain-locked 
plateau, situated at the head of the Valley (250 feet above 
its lowest point) on the road to the Ausable Lakes, and 
i^ m. S. of St. Hubert's Cottage. It occupies the site of 
the "Beede House" destroyed by fire in 1890, whose owner, 
Smith Beede the famous woodsman and mountain-explorer, 
passed away in the same year. The scenery surrounding 
is wild and majestic. From the observatory of the build- 
ing or from the adjoining heights, especially from "Windy- 
brow," a mountain-picture may be enjoyed, sublime and 
impressive beyond expression ; the grand masses of the 
Adirondacks stretching out distinctly visible for a distance 
of more than 30 m. It is an enchanting location in this 
most enchanting valley, and presents irresistible fascina- 
tions to the invalid, sportsman or tourist. The Inn is 
flanked with broad verandas, and is admirably arranged, 
having complete and luxurious appointments for 300 guests. 
The apartments are capacious, and well ventilated ; lighted 
with gas and heated by steam, when heat is needed. There 
are open fire-places in the principal hall, in the office, parlor, 
ladies' reading-room, dining-room and in several of the 
sleeping-rooms. It has electric bells, reception, smoking, 
reading and bath-rooms. There are billiards and bowling 
within, and croquet and tennis without on the fine pleasure 
grounds. The cuisine and attendance are unsurpassed. 
Not to name the various delicacies that the large markets 
afford, the table is furnished with the choicest dairy and 
vegetable supplies from the hotel farm. It has approved 
sanitary conditions and an abundance of pure water flowing 
from mountain-springs. Its group of cosy and well shaded 
cottages offers additional attractions to the tourist. 

Telegraph, telephone and post-office (Beede, N. Y.) in 
the house. As a whole it is perfectly adapted to the comfort 
and convenience of its guests and is filled each season with 
the best patronage of the large cities. Great enterprise 
characterizes the management, one of the proprietors being 
Orlando Beede the son of Smith Beede, and no expense 
has been spared to place St. Hubert's Inn in the front rank 
among the grandest hotels of the Adirondacks. 



ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN RESERVE. 305 

St. Hubert's Inn forms desirable headquarters for those 
who desire to explore the neighboring mountain scenery. 
Well defined trails radiate thence to the summits of Hop- 
kins' Peak {4}4 m); Giant of the Valley (4 m); Mt. 
Colvin (5 m); Noon Mark (2 m), and other pinnacles. It 
is affirmed there is no resort in the region that affords an 
equal number of delectable rambles. Saddle-horses and 
carriages are furnished on call, enabling one to enjoy the 
different trips that may be taken in the vicinity. Of these, 
the excursion to the Ausable Lakes; the one through 
Keene Valley; and also to Elizabethtown, over excellent 
roads, are especially commended. The ride through the 
Valley is a marvel of delight. Passing northward, the road, 
for a large portion of the way, skirts the western bank of 
the ever romantic Ausable, affording impressive views of 
the encircling mountains and charming surveys of rich 
bottom-land, sprinkled with clumps of greenery, modest 
farm-houses, and picturesque cottages. 

Stages leave the door semi-daily for Westport (fare, 
$2.50), there connecting with cars and steamers; and for 
Lower Ausable Lakes; fare, 50 cts.; round trip, 75 cts. 

Closely adjoining the property of the hotel is the ter- 
ritory of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, the rustic 
lodge and gateway belonging to the latter being only a few 
rods beyond the Inn. 

A little farther towards the lakes, placed in chosen spots 
and nestling in a wealth of fresh green foliage, are several 
summer-houses owned and occupied by the members of 
the Reserve; and still farther S. {s}4 m. from the Inn) is 
Lower Ausable Lake. 

A wagon-road leads from St. Hubert's Inn to Port 
Henry (Lake Champlain), 20^ m.; via Chapel Pond (2 
m ), Euba Mills (7 m ), Mineville and Moriah ; passing 
through the grand defile of Chapel Pond, (lying between 
Noon Mark and the Giant), and other wild and pictur- 
esque scenery. 

THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN RESERVE 

is a peerless mountain-park, embracing about 26,000 acres 
of land and over 40 square miles of territory. It extends 
from Keene Valley to ih'e Bouquet in the E., and stretches 



3o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

N. W. about lo m. — comprising a large portion of what is 
known as the " Mt. Marcy Region." Within its precincts 
are some of the most stately towers of the Adirondack 
Chain, including half of Tahawus, — the most elevated sum- 
mit in the State, with its altitude of 5,344 ft. — Haystack, 
Basin, the Gothics, Colvin, Nipple Top and Dix's Peak. 
The two Ausable Lakes, with their wealth of picturesque 
attractions, are also within its boundaries. 

The association owning the Reserve, is an incorporated 
company composed of liberal and public spirited gentle- 
men, mostly residing in Boston, New York and Philadel- 
phia, who grasped the opportunity to protect this splendid 
reach of virgin forest, whose immediate destruction was 
threatened by the relentless lumberman. 

The rules of the association may be regarded, at first 
thought, as unnecessarily stringent ; but really they are 
not too much so ; and they command the strictest observ- 
ance of their own members as well as of those who have 
no pecuniary interest in the property. The company de- 
siring to preserve the Ausable Lakes, streams, and adjacent 
forest in their natural beauty, to restock the waters 
with fish, to protect the game, and to render places of in- 
terest more accessible by roads and trails, have made in 
substance the following regulations, which visitors must 
observe: — 

Any injury to green timber is absolutely forbidden. No 
one but authorized guides will be allowed to make fires. 
Smokers must be cautious. None will be allowed to camp 
on the property unless accompanied by an authorized 
guide who has the use of a specified camp. All must 
register at the boat-house cottage on the Lower Lake. 
There, refreshments and commodious boats may be ob- 
tained. Rent of boat first hour, 35 cents; subsequent 
hours, 20 cents; per day, Ji.oo. On Upper Lake, $1.00 
for any part of a day. Each person must pay 25 cents for 
every night spent in camp ; for over two weeks, $1.25 per 
week. On Sunday nothing will be sold (liquor never is) 
and boats will not be rented. 

These "authorized guides," who are members of the 
"Keene Valley Association," have also boats of their own 




{^^iz,is^4'.^-sr-^-i'/ 



INDIAN FACE. APPROACH TO LOWER AUSABLE LAKE. 



LOWER AUSABLE LAKE. 307 

on both lakes. Camping privileges are secured through 
them only. Hunting and fishing will not be allowed except 
by special permit. 

At great expense a wagon-road has been constructed to 
the Lower Lake. Toll charged for saddle-horse, 30 cents; 
for one horse and wagon, 50 cents; for two horses and 
wagon, Jr. 00; for four horses and wagon, J1.75; for six 
horses and wagon, $2.25. Free passage for pedestrians. 

Those violating any of these regulations will be treated 
as trespassers. 

The traveler should not depart from Keene Valley with- 
out visiting the Ausable Lakes, those twin jewels of the 
Wilderness, and headwaters of the E. Branch of Ausable 
River.* They are placed in the midst of scenery of re- 
markable wildness and sublimity. Gigantic mountain- 
sentinels guard them on every hand, gazing solemnly upon 
their own sombre shadows in the still waters beneath. 
They are reached from the village by an admirable road 
ascending the interesting defile threaded by the Ausable, 
and following the winding course of that impetuous stream. 
The drive is pleasurable indeed, — tffering, as we pass 
along, rich displays of sparkling water-falls and woodland 
beauty. As we near the Lower Lake, the approach in- 
creases in interest till the climax is reached in the sublime 
spectacle spread suddenly before us. 

The Lower Ausable {i}4x^) is purely Alpine in its 
characteristics. It is enwa,lled by the gloomy precipices of 
Mount Colvin on the E. and the steep acclivities of 
Sawteeth Mt.f on the W., both towering to the clouds from 
the very water's edge, and rendering it difficult, if not im- 
possible for the pedestrian to traverse its dangerous shores. 
At various places, enormous uiasses of earth and stone, 
swept in the irresistible avalanche at different times down 
the savage declivities, and unsightly trees, wrenched by the 
violent breath of the hurricane from their precarious foot- 

* Indian name of the Ausablje Lakes, Ga-wis-aa-ga-o, "Two Goblets, side 
by side ;" of Lower Ausable Lake, " The Dark Cup ;" of the Upper Ausable, 
" Lake of the White Water Lily." (Street). 

tSawteeth Mt. (" Ressagonia ") was so named from its serrated ridge, 
composed of triple peaks. . 



3o8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ing, have found uncertain lodgment along the banks of 
this sable basin, — forming a perfect chaos of fallen trunks, 
interwoven boughs, roots and rocks. Murmuring water- 
falls, born on the dizzy heights, find their way in silver- 
threads, and with glittering leaps into the deep, black 
waters of the lake. 

On the eastern bank, near the foot of this sheet, upon 
the verge of a projecting cliff of red stone — the crowning 
feature of a majestic wall of vertical and columned rock — 
is the wonderful phenomenon styled " Indian Face," guard- 
ing in silent grandeur, the '" Dark Cup," gleaming like pol- 
ished ebony at its base, half a thousand feet below, while 
it rivals in colossal proportions and regularity of features 
that marvel c f Franconia, "The Old Man of the Mountain." 

" How sublime, that Nature should thus have carved the 
eternal rock into a likeness which remains as an imperish- 
able memento of a powerful race driven almost from the 
earth by one more powerful." — [Street.] 

On the opposite side, surmounting a ragged ledge, rising 
about 8co feet above the water, is a singular formation, 
called the " Devil's Pulpit." 

There is an " Ice House " on this lake formed by an 
impending crag wherein ice is found throughout the year ; 
but it is too dark and damp to merit a visit. 

Rainbow Falls are nearly 5^ m. N, W. of the outlet, and 
are accessible from the boat-house by a route leading first 
through a dense thicket, and then up the bed of the stream. 
This remarkable cascade is on Rainbow Brook, which 
plunges down the abrupt declivity of one of the Gothics, 
having finally a sheer vertical descent of 125 to 140 fr, and 
presenting, with the richness of the foliage drooping over 
the verge, and the absolute wildness of the environment, a 
picture of indescribable beauty.* 

Below the falls the limpid waters fret and whirl, forcing 
a passage, among the huge boulders that nearly block their 
course, through a narrow, cliff-walled aisle to the tumultu- 
ous river (Ausable) not far away. 

Ribbon Falls, on a branch of this rivulet, a short dis- 
tance above Rainbow Falls, hang gracefully upon the face 

* Rainbow or Cascade Brook falls 3,000 ft. within 2 m. 



UPPER AUSABLE LAKE. 309 

of the same precipice, and seem when viewed from afar, a 
braid of "living silver," suspended in mid-air. These 
lovely scenes command the admiration of the artist and 
the worshiper of Nature in her secluded temples. 

Resuming the journey, and making a portage of i m. 
through a beautiful forest of pines and birches — frequently 
enjoyinor glimpses of the leaf- embowered and trembling 
river, with towering masses revealed in the background — 
we reach the Upper Ausable, (2 x }^) a lake extolled by 
every visitor, and in the estimation of many, the loveliest 
water of the Adirondacks. The contrast between this and 
the Lower Ausable is marked enough ; f/iaf, in its confined 
and stupendous scenery, is awe-inspiring; M/i, with its 
softly curving shores, fairy, lily-wreathed nooks, secluded 
leaf-margined bays; and the graceful outlines of its more 
distant and gently descending mountains, is charming in 
the highest degree. 

In the N. and W. the Gothics, — with their turreted sum- 
mits and furrowed sides, — Basin, Skylight, Saddle-back, 
Ressagonia, Bartlett and other noble forms are lifted into 
lofty prominence ; and loftier still, but more remote, yet 
most conspicuous, is unveiled the clear-cut, symmetrical 
cone of the famed Haystack. 

Barring the S. and E , and apparently unending, is the 
Boreas Range, whose northern extremity, — a majestic 
dome, — has received the name of Colvin in honor of the 
eminent explorer. (See p. 307). 

The forest, on the encircling slopes, remains undisturbed 
in all its pristine loveliness. 

Upon the banks of the lake, at chosen spots, many rustic 
camps have been built by the authorized guides, which 
increase the attractiveness of the scene. At these sylvan 
retreats (comfortably equipped) visitors are provided with 
excellent fare (as. these wild-wood conductors axe experts 
in cookery) and beds of fragrant and healthful evergreen 
sprigs. 



3IO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

From Upper Ausable Lake there are two routes to the 
summit of Mt. Marcy : — 

1. 

We pass with a boat (S.) up the main inlet to Marcy 
Brook, (entering at r.) and up that stream as far as it is 
navigable. Thence we follow a trail along the W. flank of 
Bartlett Mt. and finally through Panther Go'rge (or via Lake 
Tear). Thence to the top, the grade is comparatively 
easy. The walking distance is probably 6 miles. 

2. 

We take the trail (formerly followed) leading from the 
foot of the lake over Bartlett Mt., and passing by Lake 
Tear-of-the Clouds, the highest pond-source of Hudson 
River, (4,322 ft.) lying within % m. of the summit. 

Thus, this sky-born fountain was christened by Verplanck 
Colvin ; and few lakelets bear a more appropriate name. 
It is only 25 or 30 rods in length and in itself is unimpor- 
tant; but its altitude and connection with the noble stream 
it swells, give it considerable celebrity.* 

" A few summers since I stood for the first time on the 
cool, mossy shore of the mountain-springlet, Lake-Tear-of- 
the-Clouds. Almost hidden between the gigantic moun- 
tain-domes of Marcy, Skylight and Gray Peak, this lovely 
pool lifted on its granite pedestal toward heaven, the 
loftiest water- mirror of the stars; beseeching, not in vain, 
from each low-drifting cloud some tribute for the sources 
of the Hudson; fresh, new, unvisited, save by wild beasts 
that drank; it was a gem more pure and more delightful 
to the eye than the most precious jewel." — (Colvin.) 

A bark cabin on this route, within ^ m. of Lake Tear, 
and y^ m. of the summit, affords one comfortable shelter 
for a night, if over-weary or overtaken by a storm. The 
distance from the Upper Ausable to the crown of Tahawus 
is 5 m., and though the ascent is very wearisome, especially 
via Bartlett, it is not considered dangerous ; but the services 
of a guide should not be diF;pensed with. 

•Lake Tear was first called "Lake Perkins," and afterward, "Summit 
Water." 



ASCENT OF MT, TAHAWUS. 3II 

It is sometimes ascended from Keene Valley, the nearest 
village to this mountain, by a path that follows the course 
of John's Brock S. W , passes between Slide and Saddle- 
back Mts., and unites with the "Panther Gorge Trail," which 
lies up the E. side. The distance by this toilsome route is 
about II m., and it passes within sight of Big Falls and 
Bushnell's Falls, heretofore named, and a most wonderful 
cascade that plunges down the side of Marcy i,ooo ft. into 
the dark and impenetrable caverns of Panther Gorge; and 
when the water has sufficient volume, it forms a spectacle 
thrilling and magnificent beyond description. This tre- 
mendous ravine, is formed by the precipitous sides of 
Marcy and Haystack. Its walls, in some places, tower 
aloft perpendicularly to an altitude of ten or twelve hun- 
dred feet. Its gloomy depths are completely veiled from 
the sun except during a small portion of the day. It was 
once the home of the cougar, then roaming unmolested 
through these wilds. 

The view from the crest of Tahawus, though one of the 
grandest that can reward the enterprising climber, is not 
considered equal to that afforded by the " Mountain of 
the White Star" (Whiteface). Here, the panorama un- 
folded, terrible in its sublimity, demands our homage ; 
there the picture displayed is perhaps unsurpassed in 
America in its varied, softened, and harmonious splendor. 
(See p. 274). 

In this lofty and lonely dominion, at the foot of Mt. 
Redfield, about i m. S, of Lake Tear, there sparkles an- 
other fountain that feeds the Hudson, viz: Moss Lake. 
The cold and crystalline waters of this mountain-goblet 
are set in a frame of rich and abundant moss. In altitude 
it is only inferior to its sister-spring, being 4,312 ft. higher 
than the sea. 

One mile above Upper Ausable L , the old bridle-path 
leading from Elk Lake over Boreas Mt., to Marcy, crosses 
the inlet 5/^ m, from Elk Lake House. 

Boreas Pond (ij^ x ^), S. VV. of the Upper Ausable, is 
reached by boating up the inlet (really Ausable River) 3 m., 
and following a trail thence 2 m. When passing up this 
narrow, picturesque stream, the voyager should cast a back- 



312 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ward look at the noble form of Haystack, the embodiment 
of grace and symmetry. Boreas P., a source of the Hud- 
son by Boreas River, is in reality three distinct bodies of 
water connected by short narrows. It is an uninteresting 
sheet with marshy shores, but it commands to the N. a 
noble mountain prospect. At times of freshets the waters 
of the Boreas and Ausable nearly commingle. This is a 
fine sporting territory. 

The remains of a long abandoned beaver settlement are 
still observable in the vicinity. The old trapper, Orson S. 
Phelps, thus writes to the Essex County Republican in refer- 
ence to this subject : — 

" On a beaver meadow some 5 m. W. of the Upper 
Lake, and 3 m N. W. of Boreas Pond, on the outlet near 
White Lily Pond, I found a beaver town or city, or about 
one acre of ground that was once water, I suppose, that is 
covered about as thick as it can be with beaver huts or 
houses and leave them room to go between. They were 
not particular about their streets being straight or square; 
but their houses are uniform. It is all grown over now 
with a beautiful grove of tamarack. I did not see a mark 
of the axe within a mile of it until I made it. The houses 
are about the size of a two-barrel caldron kettle. I pre- 
sume about the time Champlain was making his first trip 
into the Lake there were lively times with beaver in that 
pond, as it probably was a pond at that time." 

This pioneer-guide and engineer of most of the routes 
that scale the heights of the Keene Pyramids, whose numer- 
ous explorations have gained for him the sobriquet oi "Old 
Mountain Phelps," in a style characteristic of him, thus 
replies to some of our inquiries :— "I guess I am about as 
well known as I ought to be ; there is nothing historic 
about me except making a road to the top of Mt. Marcy 
from the south and east. In 1850 I climbed Old Tahawus 
from the E. and descended it to the S., and from all I can 
learn I was the first man that traveled either of those routes. 
Since then I have traveled them many times and seen 
many wonderful sights, but I am now growing old and 
about done climbing Mt. Marcy. Smith Beede, Harvey 



KEENE VALLEY DISTANCE TABLES. 



3^3 



Holt and myself, all of Keene Flats, are old woodsmen, 
hunters and fishermen."* 

Mr. Phelps furnished us much valuable information rela- 
tive to the Keene district ; also a map of that then unsur- 
veyed section, drawn by himself, which displays much 
artistic merit. He is truly one of "Nature's Noblemen;" 
an ideal son of the forest. 



Distances from the Village of Keene Valley to 



Keene Center, 

East Hill (WiUey House), 

Upper Jay, 

Wilmington, {via Upper Jay), . 

Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Upper Jay), 

Wilmington Notch, {via Wilmington,) 

Ausable Forks, 

Rogers' Station ("Point of Rocks "), . 

Plattsburg, .... 

Keeseville, .... 

Ausable Chasm, . . • . 

Port Kent, .... 

Elizabethtown, 

Westport, (Steamboat Landing,) 

St. Hubert's Cottage, 

St. Hubert's Inn, 

Bouquet River, 

Euba Mills, .... 

Port Henry, 

Schroon Lake, 

Chapel or Echo Pond, 

Round or Bullet Pond, 

Lower Ausable Lake, 

Upper Ausable Lake, 

Boreas Pond, 

Elk Lake, {via Hunters' Pass), 

Elk Lake, {via Ausable Lakes), 



MILES. 

5 

1% 
5 
^5 ^ 

19 
22 

42 

31 

33 
36 

I2>^ 
20>^ 

3 
9 
10 

to 23 

32 

4>^ 
6 

9 
16 

16^ 



*Mr. Phelps, at this date, has nearly reached his eightieth year. Smith 
Beede and Harvey Holt are numhered with the dead. To gain a perfect 
knowledge of this remarkahle character, one should read the delightful lit- 
tle volume, titled "In the Wilderness." by Charles Dudley Warner. 



'27 



3^4 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



MILES. 



Clear Pond, (via Hunters' Pass), 
Clear Pond, {via Ausable Lakes), . 
Summit of Prospect Hill, 

" Baxter's Peak, ("The Balcony") 
" Hopkins' Peak, 

" " Hurricane Peak, 
" Camel's Hump, 
" Giant of the Valley, 

" " Dix's Peak, {via Hunters' Pass), 

" " Mt. Marcy, {via Ausable Lakes), 

" " Mt. Marcy, {via John's Brook), 
Stiles Falls, (beautiful) (50 ft.) N. E ,* 
Clifford Falls, .... 
Sherburne Falls, .... 
Hull's Falls, ("Hull's Place"), 
Upper Hull's Falls, (N. W ) (Trap Dyke), 
White's Falls, .... 
Phelps' Falls, . . . 

Corinne Fails, (30 ft.) (S ) 
Mossy Falls, . . 

Russell's or Walker's Falls, 
Beaver Meadow Falls, 
Roaring Brook Falls, 
Artists' Falls and Gill Brook Flume, 
Fairy Ladder Falls, (150 ft.) (near Hunters' Pass), 
Minnehaha Falls, (beautiful) (60 ft.) (S. W.)t 
Rainbow Falls, .... 

Big Falls, .... 
Bushnell's Falls, 
Panther Gorge Falls, 
Washbond's Flume, . . . 

Hunters' Pass, 
Indian Pass, 
Cascade Lake House, 
Ames' Mountain View House, 

Adirondack Lodge, (Clear Lake) (z'/(2 Cascade House) 201^ 
Adirondack Lodge, {via Mt. Porter trail) 10 or 12 

John Brown's Grave, (North Elba) . ' .18 



14 

i^ 

3 

3 

7 

5 

6 

14 

7 

4^ 

3 

2>y2 

1/3 

^V2 

2 

23^ 

3 

VA 

5 

sA 

4 

lA 
10 

25 
1 1 

5 



* stiles Falls are 2)4 m. N. E. of Keene Center. 

t Mlnnelialia Falls are l m. from Lower Ausable Lake. 



KEENE VALLEY. MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. 



3^5 



Lake Placid, 

Bloomingdale, 

Lower Saranac Lake, 

Upper Saranac Lake, (Saranac Inn) 

Upper Saranac Lake, ("Bartlett's ") 

Lower St. Regis Lake, (Paul Smith's] 



MILES. 
20 

32 
28 

37 
40 

41 



Grand Mountain Excursion. 
Round Trip from the Village of Keene Valley to 

MILES. 

St. Hubert's Inn, 

Lower Ausable Lake, 

Upper Ausable Lake, . 

Mt. Marcy (Summit), 

Lake Golden, 

Calamity Pond, 

Upper Iron Works, 

Indian Pass, 

Northern end of Indian Pass, 

Adirondack Lodge (Clear Lake), 

Lake Placid, 

Whiteface Mt. (Summit) 

Wilmington, 

Wilmington Notch, 

Mountain View House, 

Cascade Lake House, 

Keene Center, . 

Keene Valley Village, . 

In making this trip, the tourist should be accompanied 
by an experienced guide. To accomplish it without suffer- 
ing great fatigue he should spend the first night at St. Hu- 
bert's Inn, or Upper Ausable Lake ; the second, at the 
camp near Lake Tear, or at the one in Panther Gorge ; the 
third, at Lake Colden Camp ; the fourth, at Upper Iron 
Works; the fifth, at the head of the Indian Pass,* where 
there is usually a bough shelter; the sixth, at Adirondack 

•The ascent of the Indian Pass is exceedingly toilsome even for a hardy- 
mountaineer. 



iV^ 


6>^ 


2^ 


9 


5 


14 


5 


19 


2 


21 


5 


26 


S 


31 


I 


32 


6 


38 


9^ 


AIV2 


8^ 


56 


6^ 


62^ 


5>^ 


673/ 


8 


753/ 


4 


793/ 


6 


85^ 


5 


903^ 



3l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lodge ; the seventh, at Lake Placid ; the eighth at ''Rustic 
Lodge," near the summit of Whiteface (p. 274); the ninth, 
at Wilmington; the tenth, at Mountain View House ; the 
eleventh at Cascade Lake House, or Keene Centre. 

Of course the -robust and ambitious pedestrian can per- 
form the journey in half the time named ; and it can be 
reduced still more by taking a carriage, wherever it is 
practicable. 

The tour may be varied by leaving out Upper Iron 
Works, and Indian Pass — diverging from the route at 
Lake Colden, and passing from that point to Avalanche 
Lake, 1^2 m.; thence to Adirondack Lodge, 5 m. It may 
also be varied by omitting Lake Placid, Whiteface Moun- 
tain, Wilmington, and the Notch, and proceeding direct 
from Adirondack Lodge to Mountain View House, 5 i^ m. 

The original trail from Indian Pass to North Elba — still 
occasionally traveled — does not lead via. Clear Lake. It 
is advisable to follow the new route via. Adirondack 
Lodge.* 

Keene Center is a pleasant hamlet, located at the north- 
ern end of the Valley, in the midst of fine scenery. Several 
stores and churches, a telephone and a telegraph-office are 
among its advantages. (P. O., Keene, N. Y.) 

The Center House is a well furnished and capacious 
structure, and offers good conveniences to a large number. 

The Glenmore, recently constructed, also affords satis- 
factory accommodations. 

From Keene Center to Elizabethtown the distance is 
12m.; the route thither diverging at right angles from the 
Valley road about midway between Keene and Keene 
Valley Village. 

The Willey House stands almost in the shadow of Hur- 
ricane Peak on the elevated plateau called East Hill, 2]4 
m. E. of Keene Center. Situated at an altitude of 1,800 
feet above the sea, it commands a magnificent view of the 
environing country. Not to name Keene Valley — spread- 
ing before us in all its loveliness — the graceful crest of 
Whiteface, the symmetrical form of Hurricane, the ponderous 

* By tlie old trail, It is 10^ m. from Indian Pass to Mountain View House, 
via. "Blln's," 9 m. 



lili 






THE CASCADE LAKES. 317 

dome of Marcy, rising in proud nobility amid the sky- 
aspiring summits of Haystack, Skylight, Ressagonia, Sad- 
dleback, Wolfs Jaws, Basin, the Gothics, the Giant, Colvin, 
Dix's Peak and Nipple Top, besides many minor peaks, 
are displayed to the enraptured gaze. 

The Willey House is a new, large and well-built structure 
with a piazza running the entire length of the front. Open 
fire-places increase the cheerfulness of the office, parlor 
and dining-room. The apartments are neat, spacious and 
tastefully furnished. The beds are of superior quality. An 
abundance of pare water is ever at hand. The table, in 
variety and excellence, is of high standard. Fine trout- 
fishing near the hotel insures frequent trout-dinners, which 
are a leading specialty. The wants of travelers are care- 
fully studied and anticipated, and patrons of the establish- 
ment are promptly provided with everything reasonable 
that will conduce to tbeir comfort. Numerous opportuni- 
ties for diversion are afforded. For the various places of 
attraction in the neighborhood, the reader is advised to 
consult the Keene Valley distance-table, p. 313. 

A favorite excursion of pedestrians is to the summit of 
Mount Hurricane, only 4 m. distant by good trail. This 
hotel offers a quiet and delightful home to both tourist 
and invalid, and has our hearty recommendation. It ac- 
commodates 75 guests. (P. O. Keene, Essex Co., N. Y.) 
Stages run daily from Lake Placid and Westport, to Keene 
Center. From there private conveyances are taken for the 
Willey House. If notified in time, the hotel-carriage will 
meet travelers at Elizabethtown (12 m ), or Westport. The 
distance is lessened by the new road, which does not pass 
through Keene. 

The Warren Cottage (private) i m. E. of the Willey 
House, is the most elevated place of abode in the Adiron- 
dack Region, being nearly 2,400 feet above tide-water. 

Resuming the journey at Keene Center to the Saranac 
Lakes and intermediate points, we there have a choice of 
two routes: one, the old road, leading over a spur of Pitch 
Off Mountain (Chimney Hill), and occupying 6 m. of 
ascent and descent; the other, more recently constructed, 
passing through the extremely romantic defile between 



3l8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Pitch Off* and Long Pond Mountains and uniting with 
the former a short distance E. of Ames' Mountain View 
House. Stages travel the new road, though the distance 
is 2 m. greater. (Keene to Ames' by old road, lo m ; by 
new road, 12 m.). Within this narrow and remarkable 
gorge, walled in by towering cliffs whose frowning heights 
(rising from 300 to t,ooo ft.) inspire the beholder with 
sentiments of profoundest awe and admiration, lie the 
" Edmund Ponds," worthy rivals, in impressive scenery, of 
the Ausable Lakes, and, like them, affluents of East Au- 
sable River. They were formerly embraced in one sheet, 
then known as " Long Pond;" but many years since (about 
i860) it was divided into two distinct parts by a tremend- 
ous avalanche that swept down the side of the southern 
peak f They then received the name of " Edmund Ponds." 
The larger pond (7 ft. lower than the other) was once 
called, ''Adirondack Lake ";j; but they are now generally 
styled "Upper" {% x %), and "Lower Cascade Lake" 
(ii^ X y^). A short and narrow stream connects them. 

The road, with but limited space afforded for its passage, 
for several miles picturesquely winds along the margin of 
these Swiss-like lakes, and around the base of Pitch Off 
Mountain, having been cut through the vast and desolate 
masses of debris that have fallen from this peak. Near 
these deep and shaded waters is a spot that will repay a 
prolonged inspection. A little brook leaps down the track 
of the avalanche nearly 800 ft., forming a succession of 
exquisite cascades,^ — a fairy exhibition of flashing silver, — 
and is finally lost to view amid the foliage by which it is 
concealed. In the bed of this stream innumerable minerals 
sparkle and glow in every direction. High up the preci- 
pice occur a series of caves, which are the deposits of 
various gems and minerals and in beauty and variety al- 
most rival the stories of eastern caverns. Here is found 

*An overlianging cliff, 300 to 500 ft. mgH, on the N. flank of Pitcli Ofif Mt., 
gives to it its singular name. 

t Long Pond Mt. This has lately been re-named, "Ausahle Mt." 

X It seems a pity, since names are now being adopted permanently for a 
region opened to the world of travelers, that the largest and most romantic 
of all of "r/te Thousand Lakes" in the Great Forest could not hear the title 
of "Adirondack." Even this little loch has been robbed of that name." 

§ These cascades gave these lakes their present name. 



CASCADE LAKE HOUSE. 319 

calcareous spar of various colors, and crystals of epidote, 
coccoline and hornblende. The scientific explorer would 
enjoy in this locality a rich and delightful field. — [Watson.] 
On the highway, and partially between these ponds, 
nearly imprisoned within barriers of impendent crags of 
dizzy height, with the "blue above and the blue below," 
stands the Cascade Lake House, occupying a grand sit- 
uation, with an altitude of 2,039 ^^- above the level of the 
sea. This mountain-hostel since the very date of its com- 
pletion has been held in high esteem, — this favorable 
regard being due to its excellent management. It has 
recently been trebled in capacity and is now an imposing 
edifice, possessing every modern appliance for comfort 
and elegance. Extensive and well-shaded verandas add 
much to the enjoyment of the guests. The office and main 
hall; the spacious parlor with its fine piano; and all the 
various apartments, in finish, equipment, cheerfulness and 
outlook, challenge the admiration of every visitor. Mas- 
sive and ornamental fire-places in the office and parlor; 
smoking and billiard rooms; a bowling alley and lawn- 
tennis court, are among the attractions. Superior beds are 
a feature of the establishment. Pure running water is 
conducted through pipes to every floor from the rocky 
heights of the cascades. The cuisine is in charge of an ex- 
perienced chef ixom New York. The table and service are 
unexceptionable. The waitresses are neat and rosy-cheeked 
country maidens. Birds, trout and venison are rarely 
lacking in their season. Fresh eggs, milk, cream and veg- 
etables are brought daily from the neighboring farms. 
Various delicacies, obtainable only in the large cities, daily 
find their way to this remote resort by means cf perfect 
stage and railroad facilities. Guests may rest assured that 
they will be treated here with the most considerate and 
courteous attention. The urbane and gracious hostess 
(Mrs. Ednah M. Weston) has the pleasure and convenience 
of her patrons ever at heart.* Thus ihe traveler is made 
to feel perfectly at home. This hostelry is considerably 
patronized by artists and devotees of nature, who delight 

* Mrs. Weston is the widow of tlie late Hon. Warren F. Weston, tlie dis- 
tinguished business-man, who ahly represented Essex Co. .for two terms 
in the State Legislature. Mr. Chas. Fury, one of the most capable and 
popular men in the business, is manager. 



3 20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

in the wild sublimity of the surrounding scenery. To 
them it is a dreamy, restful haven where they are content 
to while away their entire vacation. It is stated that Pro- 
fessor Franklin W. Hooper, of the Brooklyn Institute, 
during a recent exploration of the Adirondack Region was 
greatly inpressed by the beauty and desirability of this 
location, and in one of his published reports he not only 
devotes a very considerable space to the description of this 
locality, but recommends the purchase of it for State 
preservation. 

This place also commands the attention of the angler. 
The lakes are not only nourished by mountain-streams, 
but by springs that rise from the bottoms. As their pure 
and frigid waters have been repeatedly replenished with 
fry, and are carefully protected, they contain an unfailing 
abundance of speckled-trout. The famous woodsman, 
Wm. B. Nye, (recently deceased) assured the writer, many 
years since, that in no other waters of the Great Forest did 
trout breed so rapidly as in the Edmund Ponds. This 
superb fish-preserve being mostly owned by the proprietress 
of the hotel, is held sacredly for the use of guests, who may 
there invariably enjoy most royal sport. 

Owing to the shape and situation of these lakes the 
waters are never disturbed by violent winds, and thus 
boating is rendered safe and delightful. While making a 
circuit of their expanse with a boat, the wild and rugged 
shores, the rock-girt bays and points, the numerous leafy 
retreats, and the mighty ramparts that flank the glen, all 
combine to form an ever-changing panorama replete with 
grandly beautiful effects. 

There is a telegraph-office and a post-office (Cascade- 
ville, N. Y.) in the hotel.* A well equipped livery, main- 
tained by the establishment, offers every opportunity for 
riding. How Reached. — Though stages arrive daily from 
Westport and Lake Placid, parties who prefer private con- 
veyances, will, if they request it, be met at Westport with 
easy-riding carriages. It will be seen that Cascade Lake 
House has become easily accessible, as it is only 9 m. to 
Lake Placid, near which is the terminus of the Saranac 

"* Cascadevllle is a misnomer, as there is no village here. This name ap- 
plies to a scattering settlement several miles in extent. 







ifilw 






CASCADE LAKES TO MOUNTAIN VIEW, ETC. 



32f 



and Lake Placid R. R., enabling travelers to pass thence 
to the most distant points in America by rail. This will 
contribute greatly to its future success. 

The house entertains 150 guests. Here stage-passengers 
traveling in either direction usually dine, and are never 
disappointed with the bill of fare. 

Like Keene Valley and Elizabethtown, Cascade Lake 
House affords an admirable center from which numerous 
excursions may be made. From this location are visited 
Keene Valley, with its various atttactions, Wilmington 
Notch, Whiteface Mt., Lake Placid, Clear Lake, Mt. Marcy, 
the Indian Pass, and many minor points of interest. 



Distances from Cascade Lake House to 



Keene Center, 

Elizabethtown, 

Westport (Steamboat Landing), 

Keene Vallty Village, 

St. Hubert's Inn, 

Lower Ausable Lake, 

Clifford Falls, 

Hull's Falls, 

East Hill (VViUey House), 

Mountain View House, 

Clear Lake (Adirondack Lodge), 

Mt. Marcy (Summit), 

Indian Pass, 

John Brown's Grave (North Elba), , 

Ray Brook House, 

Lower Saranac Lake, 

Lake Placid {Railroad Station), 

Wilmington Notch, 

Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Wilmington), 

Whiteface Mt. (Summit; via Lake Placid) 

{See Keene Valley distance-table, p. 313). 



MILES. 

6 
18 
26 
II 
14 
n% 

7 

8 
■ 8>^ 

4 

9^ 
17 

7 

13 
17 

8^ 
10 

23^ 
17^ 



Emerging from amid the astonishing spectacles of the 
"Edmund Ponds Pass," the scene soon changes and again 
we enter the realm of stately loveliness, of savage sub- 



32 2 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

limity.* Tahawus, Mclntyre, Golden, Wallface, Seward, 
Whiteface, Dix's Peak, Nipple Top, and many others of 
the kingly host, " grouped in grandeur and mellowed into 
beauty, rise in full royalty before us." Here on these 
"Plains of Abraham," as this high plateau is sometimes 
termed, in the midst of these Alpine solitudes was placed 
the isolated habitation of Robert G. Scott, and here in con- 
stant view of the colossal watch-towers that with one sweep 
of magnificence sublimely indent the horizon's circle, this 
venerable patriarch of the mountains had his dwelling- 
place for nearly 70 years. At this ''smiling oasis in a wil- 
derness waste," Ames' Mountain View House, is an out- 
growth of the humble but famous abode of Scott, long 
since deceased, and is a resort most healthful and beautiful. 
It is commodious, home-like and of long-established popu- 
larity, especially with families. The rates are reasonable 
and many are induced to adopt this hotel for their summer 
sojourn. Telegraph-office in the house. It is only 41^ m. 
(N. W.) to Lake Placid railroad-station, Gapacity, 40. 
(P. 0.,Gascadeville, N. Y.) 

The ascent of a romantic elevation called "The Gobble," 
a few rods from the house, is a pleasant ramble. Looking 
southward from the summit we survey scenery of the bold- 
est and most rriajestic character, the distinguishing features 
of which are Mts. Golden and Mclntyre, and the jaws of 
the Indian Pass. 

Grand Excursion to Indian Pass, Mt. Marcy, &c. 
{Round Trip.) 

Mountain View House by road to Blin's i^ m.; thence 
to Indian Pass, by trail, 9 m.; through Pass, i m.; Upper 
Iron Works, 5 m ; Galamity Pond, 5 m ; Lake Golden, 2 
m ; summit of Mt. Marcy, 5 m.; back to Lake Golden, 5 m.; 
thence to Avalanche Lake, 1 1^ m ; Glear Lake (Adiron- 
dack Lodge), 5 m.; road via "Blin's" (4 m.) to Mountain 
View House, $% m. Total, 45^ m. 

In making this trip the pedestrian should stop over the 
first night at the head of the Indian Pass ; the second, at 

*Near tlie road en route, are Mud P. (wj x V,) (lem, and Round P., (% x ><^) 
(right); the former Ay^ m. and the latter 2 m. from Cascade Lake House. 



I 



CLEAR LAKE. 



323 



Upper Iron Works ; the third, near the base of Mt. Marcy, 
or at the camp near Lake Tear ; the fourth, at "Lake Col- 
den Camp"; the fifth, at Adirondack Lodge. (See p. 324.) 
The trails (beginning at Blin's), are generally well- 
defined. It is not prudent to undertake this journey with- 
out the attendance of an experienced guide. (See Keene 
Valley distance-tables, p. 313). 

To visit Clear Lake (5 ^ m.)we diverge from the highway 
3^ m. W. of Mountain View House, and fi^om the route to 
Indian Pass, eic^ at ''BHns.'' This famous lochan is thus 
fitly described in Street's charming volume, "The Indian 
Pass." 

"Among the beautiful waters of the Wilderness this heart- 
shaped pond is one of the most beautiful. Sparkling like 
a gem in its depth of woods, it rejoices in its loveliness, 
only for the most part in behalf of the fawns and dryads. 
Solitude reigns generally supreme, broken alone by the 
fish-hawk, as he dips his dappled wing for his prey, or the 
deer, as it steals to the brink to taste the molten silver. 
And what a picture the sunset painted ! Whereas two 
mountains were depicted in Lake Colden, no less than 
four found here their photographed features. To the W. 
Mt. Mclntyre was reflected ; at the S. frowned Mt. Colden; 
in the E. old Tahawus painted its black form ; while 'The 
Bear,' threw its sable counterfeit at the N. How beautiful, 
grand and impressive ! This little mirror in the woods, 
scarce a half mile broad, by the same distance in length, 
holding in its heart four frowning monsters, three of them 
the sublimest of the Wilderness, of which one is among 
the stateliest in the nation. How like the human heart 
enshrining grand objects in its small receptacle, and show- 
ing thus its lofty capabilities, as did Napoleon, — 

'The el)l3S and flows of wliose single soul 
Were tides to tne rest of mankind.' " 

Clear Lake itself would be a wonder in any country ex- 
cept in the Adirondacks. The purity and clearness of its 
waters, its bottom and shores of pure white sand, and its 
location, nestled among the tallest peaks of the State, 
would give it wide-spread fame in any land where lakes 
were not so plentiful. 



324 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Near the thicket-fringed strand of this sequestered water, 
imbosomed in a grove of native tree?, and encircled by this 
imposing scenery stands Adirondack Lodge. This struct- 
ure in tasteful and unique design is perhaps unsurpassed in 
rustic architecture. It is built entirely of logs and in the 
most artistic style. It is 87 feet in length and 40 feet in 
breadth, not to name a wing of nearly equal size. It is 
2^ stories in height and the first stoiy is surrounded by a 
spacious veranda. Upward of 600 fine, straight spruce 
trees were used in building the Lodge. The logs were 
joined together with the utmost care, the bark remaining 
undisturbed, and the corners displaying no marks of the 
axe. They were placed so as to to\ich each other their 
entire length. The building is surmounted by a lofty tower 
which affords the observer an outlook 65 feet above the 
ground. This furnishes a marvelous prospect of the en- 
vironing scenery with a:ll its impressive wildness and gran- 
deur remaining untouched by civilization. Within and on 
top of the tower are two pavilioned rooms, respectively 20 
and 10 feet square, very easy of access from the interior 
of the house, and affording delightful lounging and smok- 
ing-places. These pavilions are securely balustraded and 
are connected by easy stairs. This is a novelty in moun- 
tain-hotel architecture and will be found a most desirable 
appendage to the Lodge. Indeed, the construction of this 
building in its entirety shows wonderful skill in the archi- 
tect. It is the largest log house in the State and probably 
in America. It is also the most elevated hotel in the Adi- 
rondacks, standing 2,160 feet above sea-level. It is com- 
modiously, even elegantly furnished ; though everything is 
in rustic style. All useless luxuries are carefully omitted 
as not in harmony with the wild surroundings, but nearly 
every modern improvement that contributes to the comfort 
and pleasure of tourists is included in the equipment. The 
house is supplied with the purest water, and the most per- 
fect sanitary system has been adopted. Large fire-places 
will be found in the principal apartments. There is a 
general sitting-room, another for ladies, a reading and 
smoking-room for gentlemen, and a music-hall with a piano, 
an organ and a violin. Lawn-tennis and croquet grounds, 
a rifle-range and a bowling-alley, give additional enjoyment 



ADIRONDACK LODGE. CLEAR LAKE. 325 

to visitors. Boats on the lake are free to guests. In fine, 
its charming seclusion and rare attractions induce many to 
give it their patronage. Capacity, loo. (P. O., North Elba 
N. Y.) 

Adirondack Lodge offers an unusual opportunity to those 
who desire to penetrate deeply into the fastnesses of these 
mountains, which are, and should be the pride of New 
York. 

The Lodge is especially notable as being the nearest of 
any of the mountain-resorts to the true sovereign of the 
Adirondack Range, Mt. Marcy. It is reached by an ex- 
cellent trail, affording the easiest route to the summit. In 
addition, direct trails radiate from the Lodge to various 
points named in the following table, (some of which have 
heretofore been inaccessible) by direct or easy routes. A 
bridle-path leads to Cascade Lakes (8 m.) passing through 
''South Meadows," (2 m.) a level tract of land embracing 
perhaps 1,000 acres, densely covered with wild grass. (See 
p. 318). A carriage for Adirondack Lodge meets stages 
daily at the transfer station, near Mounta^i View House, 
or at North Elba. 

A Round Trip from Adirondack Lodge. 

Trail to Indian Pass, 6 m ; through Pass, i m.; thence to 
Upper Iron Works, 5 m.; Calamity Pond, 5 m.; Lake 
Colden, 2 m.; Avalanche Lake, i>^ m.; back to Adirondack 
Lodge, 5 m.. Total, 26^ m. Excursion might be varied 
by ascending Mt. Marcy from Lake Colden, 5 m. Stop 
over at "Deserted Village," and perhaps at "Lake Colden 
Camp." (See Upper Iron Works.) 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



From Clear Lake (Adirondack Lodge), to 

MILES. 

Avalanche Lake, . . . Trail, 5 

Lake Colden, . . . • *' 6^ 

Mt. Marcy (Summit), via Lake Colden, " 11^ 

Mt. Marcy, (Summit), (direct route), . " 71-^ 

Mt. Mclntyre, (Summit), . . "4>^or5 



326 THE ADIRONDACKS. 







MILES. 


Mt. Jo, ("The Bear") (Summit), . 


Trail, 


, 2 


Junction of Indian Pass Trail, . 


(( 


2 


Indian Pass, . , . 


(( 


6 


Deserted Village of Upper Iron Works, 


u 


12 


"Blin's," 


Road, 


4 


Mountain View House, (Path, 4m) 


ii 


5^ 


South Meadows, . . . . 


<< 


2 


Cascade Lake House, (Bridle-path, 8m) 


(( 


9% 


Keene Valley, (Trail, 10 or 12 m ), . 


a 


20j^ 


Elizabethtown, .... 


u 


2T% 


Weslport, . . . . . 


(( 


11% 


Wilmington Pass, 


" 


10 


Wilmington, . . . . . 


u 


i7>^ 


Ausable Forks, .... 


a 


26>^ 


Pittsburgh, . . . . 


a 


49 


Lake Placid, .... 


n 


9V2 


Lower Saranac Lake Hotel, 


u 


i7>^ 



Near Avalanche Lake (on the route) a water-fall of 20 or 
25 feet strikes a rocky ridge and divides — part feeding the 
Hudson, the remainder the Ausable. 

Avalanche Lake and Gorge, are among the most stupen- 
dous wonders of the Adirondacks. Distance through 
Gorge, i>^ m. 

William B. Nye, the noted mountain-explorer, when cut- 
ting out ihe trail to the summit of Tahawus, discovered, 
near the route, (about 4 m. from Clear L.) on a rivulet 
leaping from the airy heights above, a cascade of exquisite 
beauty, which he christened "Wallace's Falls." This has 
the highest elevation of any cascade, with an equal volume 
of water, in the Great Forest. 

Continuing our course from Mountain View House, within 
3 m. we reach the hamlet of North Elba. 

The principal celebrity of this section, aside from its scenery, lies in 
its having been for several years the home of John Brown.* Let us give a 
brief history of the early settlement of this town. In the year 1804 a 
few pioneers with their families entered into this remote and deeply 
secluded region. Divided from civilized society by a chain of almost 
impenetrable mountains, they probably reached the place by the circuit- 
ous route along the course of Saranac River and via the present village 

*Tliis name should not be confounded with that of tlie former owner of 
John Brown's Tract, from whom Vhai section derived Its name. (See p. 61). 



JOHN BROWN. NORTH ELBA. 327 

of Saranac Lake. This particular tract of rolling table-land was then 
known as the ''Great Plains" or the * 'Plains of Abraham."* Until 1809 
little progress was made in the condition of this distant colony ; but the 
construction about that time of the extensive works on Chub River, near 
the foot of Lake Placid, by Archibald Mclntyre, of Albany, and his as- 
sociates, under the name of "The Elba Iron & Steel Co.," with a capi- 
tal of $100,000, gave a new aspect to the affairs of the colonists. The 
business for several years was very successful ; but its remoteness from 
market finally ruined the enterprise, and the plant was practically aban- 
doned in 1826. (See Upper Iron Works.) In 1840 only 7 families 
remained on the 91,000 acres now forming the town of North Elba. At 
this period an important event occurred in the checkered history of that 
district. Gerrit Smiih, the eminent philanthropist, who had become an 
extensive land owner in that town, offered to present to colored persons 
a large number of lots from his wild tract, embracing 40 acres each, with 
the design of forming a colony, which should at the same time consti- 
tute a safe and congenial asylum for numerous fugitive slaves who were 
fleeing from the South to Canada. Many of them accepted the gener- 
ous offer. But much suffering and disappointment soon followed and 
the scheme for a long time seemed abortive. 

In 1849 a man called upon Mr. Smith, at his home in Peterboro, and 
referring to the project which had been announced in the newspapers, 
represented to him, that the negro, without experience in his contem- 
plated occupation and unaccustomed to the climate, was not adapted to 
the intended colonization. He proposed to take up a farm in North 
Elba, and by affording the negroes instruction and partial employment, 
to aid in the enterprise. Mr. Smith acquiesced in his views and prompt- 
ly conveyed to him 350 acres. This person was John Brown. At that 
time he was 49 years of age and a resident of Massachusetts. Soon 
af.erwards he removed to North Elba with his family and his flocks and 
herds. He erected a humble dwelling — plain and unpainted — on the 
summit of a high bluff on the W. bank of the Ausable, whose ebon 
waters wind their way through a rocky glen 200 feet below, and almost 
beneath the shadow of the loftiest pinnacles of the Adirondacks. This 
was his last though nominal home during the eventful scenes of the suc- 
ceeding 10 years which have passed into history. It is generally be- 
lieved that he was the indirect means of precipitating the late war. 
From North Elba he and his boys departed for Harpers Ferry, and to 
this place his inanimate remains were returned ; and also those of three 
of his sons, Frederick, slain at Ossawatomie.f August 30, 1856, and 
Oliver and Watson, killed at Harpers Ferry, Oct. 17th and 19th, 1859. 

*Tlie vestiges of Indian occupation wliicli remain in North Elba and 
around tlie Interior lakes, leave no doubt that at some former period the 
Aborigines congregated tliere in large numbers. 

An obscure tradition exists that the daring partisan Rogers, with his 
rangers, once destroyed the village, in the absence of the warriors, situated 
on the "Plains of Abraham." Relics of both European and savage weapons of 
war, found on the scene of the supposed conflict, seem to corroborate the 
legend. [Watson's Essex Co.] 

tit was from this battle-field that John Brown received the sobriquet of 
"Old Ossawatomie." He was executed at Charlestown, Va.. Dec. 2, 1859. 



328 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

His grandfather's tombstone, ancient, and weather-tinged, brought at 
John Brown's request from Massachusetts, and carefully protected from 
the relic-seeker, marks the picturesque spot near the house which he 
himself selected, where repose their remains, although the immense 
boulder at the foot of the sepulcher on the face of which is inscribed, in 
bold letters, "John Brown, 1859," ^^ the most appropriate monument 
imaginable. Loving hands have planted roses and other flowers over and 
around their resting-place. 

*'All, friends and foes, bore testimony to the native dignity of mind, 
person and manner belonging to John Brown. Inflexible in purpose, 
and unconquerable in spirit. Nature seemed to have cast him in the iron 
mould of the Puritan warrior." (Street). 

"Had he been made of such poor clay as we, — 
Who, when we feel a little fire aglow 
'Gainst wrong within us, dare not let it grow, 

But crouch and hide it, lest the scorner see 

And sneer, yet bask our self-complacency 

In that faint warmth, — had he been fashioned so, 
The Nation ne'er had come to that birih-throe. 

That gave the world a new Humanity. 

He was no mere professor of the word — 
His life a mockery of his creed ; — he made 

No discount on the Golden Rule but heard 
Above the senate's brawls and din of trade 

Ever the clank of chains, until he stirred 
The Nation's heart by that immortal raid." 

[Wm, Herbert Carruth, in New England Magazine ] 

It should be stated that, though John Brown faithfully performed the 
duties he had undertaken, and though the colonization project seeming- 
ly prospered for awhile, yet in the end it proved a failure. Many of the 
freeholds were sold for taxes, and most of the settlers removed to other 
places. To-day, few if any of the large number of original grantees 
retain the homesteads they received. [Watson's Essex Co.] 

"John Brown's Grave," the modern Mecca, of many a pilgrimage, is 
within ^ m of the highway leading to Saranac Lake, the house being 
clearly visible from the road. 

The farm and residence* have been secured by a company consisting 
of Kate Fields, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Williams, Wm H. Lee, Geo. 
A. Robbins, G. C. Ward, D. R. Martin, Chas. A. Smith, Isaac Sher- 
man, Elliot C Cowden, Thomas Murphy, Chas. G. Judson, Salem H. 
Wales, Sinclair Toucey, Horace C. Claflin, Henry Clews, LeGrand B. 
Cannon, S. B. Chittenden and J. S. Schultz. To the untiring exertions 
of the fair name that heads the list, this company is indebted for its or- 
ganization. Its object is to hold this property to commemorate the most 
startling event in the extraordinary career of the "martyr hero." 

•'When I revisited the Adirondacks recently,' says Miss Field, *'I 
found our property worth three times what we had paid for it, ($2,000), 

*Plaln but wholesome refreshments are obtainable at this place. 




JOHN BROWN'S HOUSE, AND GRAVE. 



330 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Picturesquely skirting the western shore of Mirror L. and 
lying almost in the lap of the "Great Range," is the Village 
of Lake Placid (P. O., the same), with its neat dwelling- 
houses, well-kept streets and general air of thrift. Here 
are stores of different kinds, several attractive churches, a 
number of elegant summer-residences of prominent people 
from the leading cities, and even an opera house. 

The construction of the Saranac & Lake Placid 
Railroad, terminating ^ m. S. of the village has placed 
the Lake Placid district in connection with the principal 
lakes of the region, and also in easy and rapid communica- 
tion with the outside world. Being a three-rail line, the 
narrow gauge cars of the Chateaugay R. R , as well as 
the standard gauge cars of the Adirondack & St. Law- 
rence Line, are enabled to convey passengers to Lake 
Placid without change. (See pp. 185, 231, 247). 

Hotel accommodations in this locality are sufficiently 
ample to satisfy every demand. Nash's farm-house, facing 
Mirror L , and the Lake Placid House, formerly, "Brews- 
ter's," standing between the head of Mirror L. and L. Pla- 
cid, have long been known to the public. The former — a 
quaint structure — where in 1872 we tarried for several days, 
we believe still provides for the wants of a limited number. 
The Lake Placid House has been lately rebuilt in accord- 
ance with modern requirements, and now offers good enter- 
tainment to about 60 guests. 

In the approach from North Elba the first public-house 
reached is Mirror Lake Hotel, one of the most sumptu- 
ous of summer-resorts. It is enchanting in its situation, 
imposing in its magnitude, attractive in its architecture and 
admirable in all its arrangements. In fact, it will compare 
favorably with many of the grand hostelries that the tour- 
ist may visit in any locality. It is owned by the "Lake 
Placid Hotel Co." and is equal to the wants of nearly 400 
guests. Backed by the tireless energy of such men as Paul 
Smith, president of the company, Phelps Smith, vice-presi- 
dent, and Charles E. Martin, manager, large capital has 
been expended in improving and beautifying the property. 

Many of the former habitues of the celebrated caravan- 
sary at St. Regis Lake, will recognize in Mr. Martin, the 



MIRROR LAKE HOTEL. 33 1 

brother-in-law of Paul Smith and once the exceedingly 
popular clerk of that establishment. His name and tuition 
under such a master are guarantees of excellence. 

To his persistent endeavors more than to any other cause, 
may be attributed the construction of the Saranac & Lake 
Placid Railroad, the connecting link between the villages 
of Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. 

Mirror Lake Hotel is 5 stories high and has a frontage 
of over 200 feet. Its spacious verandas look out upon 
pictures of great natural beauty, while from the tower sur- 
mounting the building and rising to the height of 115 feet 
the view that bursts upon the spectator like a lovely vision,, 
combines Italian verdure and softness with Swiss sublimity. 
This house is commodious and luxurious in the fullest sense 
of the word. The large reception-rooms are tastefully fur- 
nished and have open fire-places. The two grand drawing- 
rooms on the first floor are connected with a beautiful and 
capacious music-hall, which often, in the evening presents 
a brilliant spectacle of gay people whirling in the mazy 
dance to the inspiriting strains of a fine orchestra. The 
sleeping-apartments are of generous size, high, cool and 
well ventilated. In these, the best of 40 lb. hair mattresses 
woo the weary or nervous traveler to repose. As many as 
12 rooms en suite can be obtained on every floor. The 
decorations and furnishings are elegant and fashionable. 
Each room is supplied with electric bell and incandescent 
lights. It should be noted that among the mountains, fires 
are a frequent necessity, even in midsummer; hence steam- 
heat at this house insures comfort to guests. The advan- 
tages for various kinds of entertainment are numerous, and 
each has its devotees. 

In the pleasant basement will be found well-finished 
billiard-parlors for ladies and gentlemen, and a bowling- 
alley ; also smoking and reading-rooms; likewise a chil- 
drens' play-room of large size. 

Pure water, from mountain-springs of abundant flovy, is 
conducted through the hotel by a perfect system. Scien- 
tific plumbing renders the sanitary arrangements complete. 

The table, in charge of a skilful ''Chef de cuisine' and 



332 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

well disciplined waiters, is always satisfying even to the 
exacting epicure. 

A resident physician is in constant attendance. 

The park-like grounds are laid out with elegance and 
taste and slope gently to the waters of Mirror Lake. 

Every style of vehicle appropriate for mountain-travel 
may be obtained at the extensive hotel-livery, enabling 
guests to enjoy charming drives through ever- varying scen- 
ery, over the excellent roads in the vicinity. So numerous 
are the points of interest within easy reach of Lake Placid 
that the enterprising traveler maybe delightfully engaged 
for many days, visiting daily new scenes of rare beauty. 
The accompanying distance-table will aid the reader in 
making a selection of excursions. 

The Grand View House has an admirable situation on 
elevated ground, a short distance N. of Mirror Lake Hotel. 
With its late additions, it has nearly doubled its former size 
and is now one of the largest hotels in the region, affording 
entertainment for 200 guests. It is well entitled to the 
name it bears. From its grand location, both rooms and 
verandas command the loveliest views of lake, forest and 
mountain-scenery. The house is thoroughly built, is fur- 
nished in the best manner and no pains have been spared 
to make it complete in every particular. Thus, it affords 
the traveler nearly every possible comfort, convenience and 
luxury. Pure spring-water is on every floor. Drainage 
and sanitary conditions are perfect. Telegraph-office in 
the building. It has an excellent livery. 

The Stevens House is most imposingly situated on the 
lofty bluff {elevation^ over 2,000 ft. above tide) between Mirror 
Lake and Lake Placid. The original structure was destroyed 
by fire several years since, but the proprietors with commen- 
dable enterprise reared in its place a stately edifice of splen- 
did proportions. The main building, as well as the large 
annex and auxiliary cottages, is fitted up with every modern 
appliance, is luxuriously furnished and has all the desirable 
features of a first class -mountain-hotel. It is admirably 
arranged with spacious parlors and dining-rooms, and 
numerous convenient, airy and well-equipped sleeping 
apartments, many of them having open fire-places. . The 




LAKE PLACID AND MIRROR LAKE. STEVENS' HOUSE. 



STEVENS HOUSE. LAKE PLACID. 333 

table, of fastidious service, is supplied from the connecting 
farm, and also with various metropolitan delicacies. Water, 
sewerage and plumbing are of the best. A superb orches- 
tra gives concerts daily, and furnishes music for evening 
hops. Opportunities for the most popular modes of rec- 
reation are offered. 

With an excellent livery at command every facility is 
afforded tourists desirous of visiting the neighborhood, so 
replete with attractions. 

There is a telegraph-office on the premises. The entire 
establishment accommodates 350 guests. 

No site could well be more beautiful than that occupied 
by the Stevens House. The view obtained from the piazzas 
and observatory is one of the grandest that any region 
affords. Facing the south, we survey a lake and mountain 
picture almost peerless in its variety and sublimity. . Marcy, 
Haystack, Mclntyre, Wallface, Golden, Basin, Saddleback, 
the Gothics and many smaller pinnacles, are conspicuous 
in the scene. . In other directions we look upon Whiteface, 
Sentinel, Pitch Off, Henderson, Seward, Santanoni, Amper- 
sand and other majestic summits. Then there are the 
lovely lakes at our feet, forming perhaps the most charm- 
ing feature of the picture. Verily we seem to be looking 
upon an enchanted realm. Tourists who have repeatedly 
traveled through Europe are filled with surprise and ad- 
miration when surveying this spectacle, and admit that it 
surpasses any they ever beheld. 

In lake and mountain-prospect the Stevens House fairly 
divides the honors with Saranac Inn. By the majority of 
visitors, however, that of the former is considered superior. 
But it should be remembered that these magnificent masses 
are about a score of miles more remote from Upper Sara- 
nac Lake ; and though their outlines are far less defined, 
yet "distance lends enchantment to the view," and awe- 
inspiring grandeur is softened thereby into exquisite 
beauty. (See p. 266). 

Stages from all these hotels await the trains at the sta- 
tion. 

The RuissEAUMONT occupies a commanding position on 
the eastern shore of L'dke Placid, 3/ m. N. E. of the vil- 



334 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

lage. It is a modern erection of recent date and sprang 
into instant popularity. It is a large and stately edifice, 
whose architectural peculiarities form a bewildering aggre- 
gation of gables and towers, of verandas and colonial 
facades. 

It stands out in bold relief from the dark background of 
the rocky leaf-clad slopes of Mt. Whitney (''Cobble Moun- 
tain") rising directly in the rear ; while the singular cliff 
called the "Devil's Pulpit" displays its bold front in the 
opposite direction. The site combines with pleasant forest- 
surroundings a lake and mountain view of great extent 
and wondrous beauty. The appointments and manage- 
ment are of the first order. The cuisine and attendance 
are of the highest standard. Ic luxuriously provides for 
200 guests. Carriages meet every train at the station, 
about 2 m. distant. (P. O., Lake Placid, N. Y.) 

Lakewood Inn is a new and already popular aspirant for 
public favor. Full details have not yet reached us. 

Whiteface Inn, formerly called "The Westside," (P. O., 
Whiteface, N. Y.) is on the W. shore and near the foot of 
Lake Placid. I,t is a large establishment situated on a 
commanding plateau inclining gracefully to the beach, and 
with its several neat cottages, is embowered in a grove of 
maple, balsam and other evergreen trees. Its situation is 
picturesque and delightful, while from the verandas is com- 
manded the finest uninterrupted view of Whiteface Mt , of 
the three islands, and of the lake itself, that any hotel in 
the vicinity affords. The grounds, displaying verdant lawns 
interspersed with trees of the virgin forest, remind one of a 
well kept English park, and embrace several hundred acres, 
that skirt the lake for ^ of a mile. Through these sylvan 
shades and along the shore, delightsome rambles are en- 
joyed. From the summit of Colburn Peak, only ^ m. from 
the house, and easily attained, may be witnessed one of the 
grandest panoramas the region offers, embracing the whole 
scenery of the principal giants of the Adirondack Range. 
Whiteface Inn, though comparatively new, has already 
gained a high position among the Wilderness hotels. It 
has recently been refitted and re embellished, and now 
possesses every modern improvement and convenience. 



WHITEFACE INN. LAKE PLACID. 335 

General comfort, cleanliness and superior accommodations 
prevail. It is conducted by a reputable manager who en- 
deavors by the most strict attention to the wants of guests, 
to merit the excellent reputation the house has acquired. 
It will be found a cool and lovely spot in which to spend a 
summer vacation. Capacity, 140. 

A branch road leads from here, intersecting the stage 
road to Saranac Lake, i^ m. W. of North Elba. 

"Castle Rustico," a large rustic structure, built entirely 
of logs, is also located on the W. shore, but towards the 
head of the lake, opposite Moose Island. When it is con- 
ducted as a hotel it receives about 60 guests; but it is not 
always kept open to the public. (P. O., Whiteface, or Lake 
Placid, N. Y.) 

The northern end of Lake Placid is especially bold and 
imposing. The primeval forest stretches from the rocky 
shore to the surrounding mountain-tops, and water, islands, 
woods and ever- changing sky conspire to charm the senses. 
Upon a rocky point within i J^ m. (by water,) of the foot 
of "Old Whiteface," stands "Under-Cliff," one of the 
most picturesque of the select resorts of the Adirondacks. 
A pretty woodland park, a cluster of snowy tents and cr zy 
cottages encircling the central buildings, and a fine 
boat-house and lake- side casino suggest only the physical 
features of a most unique and delightful spot for a summer 
sojourn. The owner is a city- physician who insists on per- 
fect sanitation without any appearance of invalidism, and 
the motto of the management is "comfort and excellence." 

Viands of various kinds, simple, generous and carefully 
prepared, rather than the less wholesome luxuries of the 
great hotels, furnish the well-served table. 

By following well- graded paths a mile or less, leading in 
different directions through the fragrant woods, we will 
reach pearly mountain-brooks, sparkling waterfalls, and 
other points of the wildest beauty ; and on these routes, 
from elevations of moderate height, views of great range 
are gained. Under-Cliff is visited by many tourists, to 
avoid the noise, bustle and expense of the larger houses. 

It affords us pleasure to recommend this quiet, restful 
and charming retreat. Capacity, 50. It is accessible from 



336 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lake Placid Village, its P. O., 4 m. distant, by row-boat or 
steamer. 

To ascend Mt. Whiteface we follow a path leading from 
the head or northern end of L?.ke Placid. The rise is 
gradual at the commencement, but as the summit is ap- 
proached, becomes very abrupt; and let it not be con- 
sidered an easy matter to scale this pinnacle. We believe 
it is attended with some danger and the prudent will be 
accompanied by a guide. But if the task were five times 
as diflicult the climber would be well rewarded for his toil. 
(See pp. 230, 274). Distance from base to crown, 33^ m. 
The ascent and return trip to the different hotels are ac- 
complished within a day. Ladies have performed all this 
but not without suffering great fatigue. Charles E. Martin 
of Mirror Lake Hotel and A. E. Putnam of New York, have 
purchased Whiteface Mt., and a first-class carriage road will 
soon be constructed from that hotel to the summit, (about 
8 m. distant) and a "tiptop house" erected. All tourists 
to this locality will be deeply indebted to Mr. Martin for 
his untiring efforts in rendering Lake Placid and the sum- 
mit of this far-famed mountain so easily accessible. 

Lake Placid as a pleasure-resort, has a very select follow- 
ing and the best social elements have here full sway. It is 
mostly the rendezvous of a refined and wealthy class of 
tourists. Affording, as it does the nearest complete view 
of the most prominent peaks of the Adirondacks, likewise 
enchanting pictures of less elevated scenery, and its alti- 
tude, invigorating air, palatial hotels and agreeable society 
being considered, a visit to this spot becomes in time a de- 
lightful memory. And now that railroad communication 
is established, it may safely be prophesied that the day is 
not far distant when it will have become one of America's 
most popular watering-places. It already attracts annually 
thousands of visitors. The sumptuous cottages of many of 
these, in chosen places, adorn the richly wooded banks of 
Lake Placid as well as the shores of Mirror Lake. 

Fishing and hunting are as good in the neighborhood as 
at any other locality in the mountainous section, though 



ROUTES FROM LAKE PLACID. 



337 



trout and deer are not generally as abundant among the 
mountains as on the lowlands or plateau.* 

The pretty little steamer Ida affords tourists delightful 
trips upon Lake Placid. 

Stages depart daily for Mountain View House, Cascade 
Lakes, Keene, Keene Valley, Elizabethtown and Westport. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



From the Village of Lake Placid. 






MILES. 


Whiteface Inn, .... 


4 


Under Cliff, .... 


4 


North Elba, . . 




2 


John Brown's Grave, 




3 


Adirondack Lodge, Clear Lake, 




9^ 


Mt. Marcy, (Summit), 




17 


Indian Pass, .... 




i5>^ 


Upper Iron Works, (Deserted Village), 




21^ 


Mountain View House, 




s 


Cascade Lake House, 




9 


Keene Center, 




15 


Keene Valley Village, 




20 


St. Hubert's Inn, . . 




23 


Elizabethtown, 




27 


Westport, .... 




35 


Wilmington Notch, 




7^ 


Wilmington, .... 




15 


Ausable Forks, 




24 


Saranac Lake Village, {via R. R.), 




9 or 9^ 


Saranac Inn, {via R. R), . 
Paul Smith's, {via R. R.) 




i9>^ 




23>^ 


Averyville, 




5 


Miss Newman's, 




4 


Around the Square, 




7 


Around Mirror Lake, .... 


3^ 



-It is stated that on Aug. 1, 1893, a salmor.-trout 40 Inclies in length, 23 
inches in girth and 25 lbs. in weight was caught In Lake Placid. Indeed this 
water is hecoming famous for large trout. 

29 



338 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

Conery Pond (i x i^), is \j{ m. N. E. of the village. 
Thence it is i m. W. to Lake Placid, and j4 m E. to the 
abandoned ''Notch House" on the Wilmington Pass road. 

From this road to Owen's P. (^ x ^ ; nearly round) it 
is I m. E. by a good path along its outlet. 

Lying 3y£ m. N. E. of Owen's P. is the small Wink P., one 
of its sources. 

About 50 rods N. of W. of the head of Conery P. is Long 
P. (^ X }i). Three-fourths m. N. E. of this is Nigger P. 
(10 acres). 

Tom Peck P. lies }( m. S. W. of the lower end of Conery 
Pond. 

The three ponds last named empty into Conery Pond. 

Holcomb P. (i X ^) lies about 2 m. farther S. on the E. 
side of Ausable River, and ^ m. from the Pass road. It 
is small but attractive. 

Cherry Patch P. in the vicinity, on the W. side of the 
river, is unimportant. All these forest-hidden waters ex- 
cept Wink P. are plentifully supplied with trout. (See p. 
276.) 

Returning to North Elba, from this point to Lower Sara- 
nac Lake (10 m ) the route lies through a section devoid 
of important interest ; though it should be noted that a 
pleasant resort, the Ray Brook House, 6 m. beyond this 
place, is passed on the way. (See pp. 250, 255.)* 

*Let not tlie traveler he misled by our following the old-time route from 
Mountain View House to Saranac Lake. Of course, if lie consults convenience 
and speed, lie will \asit the latter point, from Lake Placid, by rniirnad. (Lake 
Placid to Saranac Lake Village, by cars, 9>^ m.; thence to Lower Saranac 
Lake, by stage, lu m. Total, 10% m.) 




DOWN LAKE PLACID FROM UNDER-CLIFF. 




THE BOAT HOUSE AT UNDER-CLIFF. LAKE PLACID. 



DIVISION IV. 

INTO THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN, HUDSON RIVER, 
RAQUETTE AND LONG LAKE REGIONS. 

Port Henry ^ Crown Pointy Fori Ticonderoga^ Fort Edward 

and Saratoga Springs^ afford eligible avenues 

to these sections. 

Twenty -sixth: — From Port Henry to Mineville it is 7 m., 
via Lake Champlain and Moriah R. R , whence it is 13^ 
m. to St. Hubert's Inn, via a fair wagon -road. Total, 201^ m. 

This will soon become an easy and popular route to 
Keene Valley, as commodious cars are to be placed on this 
line and the road is to be put in perfect condition. (See 
pp. 219, 305). 

From Mineville, Bald Peak (Ind., Oh-no-ro-no-rum^ 
** Bald Head ") is most easily ascended. The summit com- 
mands a fine view of Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. 

Near Mineville a road branches from the highway and 
leads N. W. to a new haven of rest and recreation styled 
Pine Ridge Cottage. Though called a " cottage " it is a 
large structure 2^ stories high and over 200 feet long. 
This pleasant situation offers interesting views of distant 
mountains faintly outlined against the sky. Within i ^ or 
2 m. is Long Pond, a handsome sheet of water (p. 291); 
and in the immediate vicinity are Chellis, Hatch and 
Chafey's Ponds. Bass, trout and pickerel abound in these 
waters. 

Pine Ridge Cottage is located in the- town of North 
Hudson, about 14 m. from Port Henry. It has already 
become quite popular and fashionable. 

By following this route still farther N. W. New Russia 
may be reached where another resort called " Lavertey's," 
will be found. (See p. 288). 



340 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

From Port Henry to ''Root's" 17 m.; thence to "White 
House," 4^ m.; thence to "Fenton's" % m ; Boreas River 
(La Bier's), 8 m.; Tahawus ("Lower Iron Works"), 6 m.; 
Newcomb, 71^ m.; Long Lake, 13 m. Total, 56^ m. . 

Stage daily to Root's; fare, |i.So. Stage, Monday, Wed- 
nesday and Friday to Newcomb; fare, fo.oo; on Tuesday, 
Thursday and Saturday from Newcomb to Long Lake; 
fare, $4.50. 

The route for a large portion of this distance after leav- 
ing Schroon River, passes through a section noted for its 
wild sublimity. Spurs of the Adirondack Mountains are 
crossed, rendering the road quite uneven,* but at the same 
time affording views of surpassing beauty and grandeur, 
which often burst upon the eye with startling abruptness \ 
At different places between Port Henry and "Root's," 
either N. or S. of the route, are Crowfoot, Moriah, Round, 
Twin, Ensign, Bullpout (200 a), Pine, Hammond, Hatch, 
Moose Mt., Lily Pad, Rogers', Berry and Spectacle Ponds. 

"Root's!" Who among Adirondack tourists is unfamiliar 
with this time-honored name ? Perfectly home-like in all 
its appointments, this long-established "Sportsman's Re- 
treat " affords a most agreeable resting place for the weary 
traveler. Guests, are furnished with pleasant rooms, and 
supplies are procured at " Root's Store." Although this 
establishment has changed hands, it continues to bear the 
old name. (P. O., Schroon River, N. Y.) 

Excellent fishing is found in the " W. Sturtevant," or 
"North West Branch," a stream that flows from Hunter's 
Pass through Elk Lake, passes thence S. W., receives the 
waters of Clear Pond through its % m. outlet, and unites 
with Schroon River i m. W. of the inn. This river flow- 
ing southerly, enters Schroon Lake and departs thence at 
its S. extremity for Hudson River. 

Root's Mountain, near by, is often ascended and com- 
mands a varied prospect of dense woodland, cultivated 
fields and towering peaks. 

* This road is Ijelng continually improved. It is excellent fi'om Newcomb 
to Long Lake. 

t These are especially manifested at La Bier's, where a magnificent pano- 
rama of the great peaks is unfolded. 



CLEAR POND. ELK LAKE. HUNTER S PASS. 341 

Johnson's Pond lies i^ m. S E. of "Root's," near the 
Crown Point road. 

At " Fenton's Place," which has a picturesque situation, 
a route to Mt. Marcy diverges N. at right angles as follows: 
— Clear Pond, 3 m.; Elk Lake, 2 m.; Mt. Marcy, 8^ m. 

These two ponds, each about i x }4, are among the 
loveliest of the Adirondack waters — indeed they are almost 
peerless in their majestic surroundings.* Conspicuous in 
the grand picture presented here, are Dix's Peak, Ma- 
comb's Mt., Nipple Top and the Boreas Spires. By as- 
cending one of the neighboring heights, the entire Adiron- 
dack group is brought into magnificent display. 

The secluded " Lake-side Inn," at Clear Pond, offers 
fair accommodations to a limited number. So does the 
Elk Lake House at Elk Lake. Trout-fishing and deer- 
hanting are claimed to be excellent. At Elk Lake House 
the wagon-road terminates ; but through the praiseworthy 
exertions of Samuel Sanders, aided by the purses of the 
inhabitants of the town of Schroon, a bridle-path was many 
years ago constructed to the base of Mt. Marcy, (8^ m.). 
It crosses Ausable River, (5^ m. distant) i m. above Up- 
per Ausable Lake. (See p. 311). This hotel is one of the 
nearest habitable points to this mountain, and this is the 
only method that enables the tourist to ride to the very 
foot of "Old Tahawus."t This trip may be varied by 
passing with a boat across the lake, }i m., and thence up 
an inlet about 2^ m , where the trail is taken. 

The opening of a good trail to the top of Dix's Peak, 5 
m. N, E. of Elk L. is due to the enterprise of the same 
parties. The prospect enjoyed from the summit is one of 
the grandest that any of the range presents, and is richly 
worth the exertion required for its attainment. Few have 
trodden its narrow, giddy and dangerous ridge. Descend- 
ing the mountain and passing onward a short distance we 

*It should toe stated, however, that Elk Lake is dismally fringed with dead 
trees. It was formerly called Mud Pond. It was once the common haunt of 
the North American Elk, or Moose ; hence Its present name. 

t By later advices we learn that the path is not used hy saddle horses now, 
as it is considerahly ohstructed by fallen trees. It should be re-opened. 

There Is a large log camp within 6 rods of where Elk Lake trail diverges 
from "Panther Gorge Trail," about % m. below the camp near Lake Tear. 
(See p. 310). 



342 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

enter "Hunter's Pass" or "Gorge of the Dial." (See pp. 300, 
313)- 

This imposing ravine is bounded by the stupendous 
walls of Dix's Peak on the S. E. side, and those of " The 
Dial " or Nipple Top* on the other. These mountains are 
classed among the loftiest of the Adirondack Range; and 
here their perpendicular sides, stretching away for a dis- 
tance of half a mile, attain an altitude of from 200 to 500 
ft. *' The walls," says the veteran hunter Elijah Simons, 
of Elizabethtown, "are not so high as those of Indian Pass, 
in sheer ascent, but they are still as green as God made 
them, and have not been desolated by fires as have the 
sides of Wallface and Mclntyre." Nature seldom displays 
a more amazing spectacle of gloomy, savage, solitary 
grandeur. Here perpetual silence reigns. Two lovely 
rivers, the Schroon and Bouquet, taking their rise in this 
place, course their way in opposite directions through the 
narrow gorge. (3 to 10 rods wide.) The pass is sometimes 
visited from " Root's," distant 11 m. via North Hudson. 

There is also a good trail from Elk Lake to the summit 
of Macomb Mt.; distance 3 m. 

With this digression we resume the main route. From 
La Bier's (Boreas. River P. O.) a lumber-road leads to 
Boreas Ponds, 6 m. N., whence, if boats are available, the 
Ausable Lakes and Keene Valley may be reached. (See 

p. 311) 

North, E. and S. of Boreas River, near the road, are 
Wolf, Sand and Cheney Ponds, with their marvelous views 
of Tahawus and the grand uplift of other mountain-crests, 
nearly lost in the clouds. West are the Van De Whacker 
Ponds. 

At HdikizyNM's, post-office ("Lower Iron Works,")t we again 
diverge N. from the regular avenue to examine one of the 
most interesting localities in this region. Passing ti m. 

* Nipple Top derived its name from the curious elevation rising from tlie 
center of its dome-shaped summit. This mountain was formerly known as 
*' The Dial." 

t Two and one-half m. N. E., lying under the shadow of the North River 
Jits., are Birch and Trout Ponds, each 1 m. in length ; and S. E. of Tahawus a 
short distance, Is Hyslip P. The "Adirondack Iron & Steel Co." has 
erected a cluh-house at the " Lower Iron Works." (See Upper Iron Works.) 



THE DESERTED VILLAGE — UPPER IRON WORKS. 343 

over a comfortable wagon- road, through a narrow valley 
skirted on opposite sides by Lake Sanford and a mountain- 
ous ridge, we arrive at the "Adirondack Upper Iron Works." 
The same point is also accessible by water as follows: — Outlet 
of Lake Sanford (Hudson River), 5 m.; Lake Sanford, 5 
m.; inlet i m. Either route presents mountain pictures of 
infinite grandeur. Tahawus and many members of his 

royal court, 

" are piled 
Heavily against the liorizon of tlie north, 
Like summer thunder-clouds." 

Astonishment possesses us when we find, in this lonely 
valley, a deserted village,* (not Goldsmith's, but Iron- 
smith's) as silent as the walls of Pompeii. When we visited 
the place in 1878, the structures standing there, comprised 
14 or 15 dwelling-houses, a church, school-house, hotel, 
store, bank, warehouses, shops, forges, furnaces, etc., once 
teeming with life and activity, but then rapidly going to 
decay. None were occupied save a solitary habitation, the 
old hotel (now the " Club House ") in which the superin- 
tendent and his family had dwelt for several years, sole 
occupants of the hamlet, — "monarchs of all they surveyed." 
The different buildings were given over to the bats, and 
offered a free entry to cattle and sheep. Broken window- 
panes, and shutters dangling upon a single hinge while 
creaking dismally in the wind, gave to the spot a gruesome 
sense of loneliness. And as if this were not sufficient, a 
report had gone out that one of the houses was haunted I 
To-day, with its grass-grown streets, and with the huge 
smelting- works and residences of the operatives fast crumb- 
ling into dust, the village presents a sad and singular 
spectacle. This is rendered all the more impressive by its 
wild environment and its remoteness from the settlements. 

The solid natural iron dam (Ind. Tsi-nagshe, "Place of' 
Beavers") over which pours the Hudson, f is one of the 
most unique objects in Nature's museum and excites the 
wonder and admiration of the beholder. It is said that 
this curiosity led to the discovery of the immense mineral 

* This village was first called " Mclntyre," and the hank hore the same 
name. The church was christened " Tuhal Cain:" 

t The Hudson is here locally known as East, or Adirondack River. 



344 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

wealth existing here, and to the subsequent settlement of 
the place. 

Much that is obscure and erroneous has been written and 
published concerning the discovery of this wonderful de- 
posit of iron-ore. Through the kind instrumentality of 
Mr. Robert Clarke, a nephew of David Henderson, the 
leading spirit in this important enterprise, and the senior 
member of the great publishing house of Robert Clarke & 
Co., of Cincinnati, we are enabled to place the facts before 
the reader, in the form of the following letter, a true copy 
of the original.* 

Elba, Essex Co , 14th October, 1826. 
Archibald Mclntyre, New York : — 

My Dear Sir. — I wrote you after our arrival here two weeks ago, 
and hope you received the letter. We have now left the woods, and 
intend returning home for several reasons. We found it impossible to 
make a complete search for silver ore this season. Duncan McMartin's 
time will not allow him to remain longer at present, and to search all 
the likely ground would take at least a month longer. But the princi- 
pal cause of our quitting so soon, is the discovery of the^most extra- 
ordinary bed of iron ore for singularity of situation and extent of vein, 
which perhaps this North American continent affords. 

As I have an hour or two to spare, I will give you a little sketch of 
our proceedings. 

The next day after we arrived here (Saturday) we went deer-hunting. 
All the settlement turned out and several deer were seen, but none 
killed. I had a shot at one, but at too great distance. 

On Sunday we went to Squire Osgood's meeting. On Monday got 
all in preparation for the woods pretty early. 

Just before we started, a strapping young Indian of a Canadian tribe, 
made his appearance at Darrows' gate. He was the first Indian that 
had been seen in the settlement for three years. 

Enoch (whom we had been plaguing about Indians and whose fears 
on that score were in consequence considerably excited) happened to 
be standing at the door when the Indian appeared, and made a pre- 
cipitate retreat to the back settlements of the house. 

"Well, now massa Henderson," he said; " this too bad. Don you 
'collect I tells you not to bring me in 'mong Injins. They be a people 
I want nothin' to do with." 

The Indian opened his blanket and took out a piece of iron ore about 
the size of a nut, saying : 

" You want see 'em ore? Me know 'm bed, all same." 

" Where did you find it?" we asked. 



*At the date of this letter, Messrs. Henderson, Mclntyre, McMartln and 
others, owned and were carrying on the unremuneratlve Iron works In North 
Elha. (See p. 327). 



Henderson's letter, the marvelous discovery. 345 

*' Me know;" he replied. " Over mountain, whose water runs pom, 
pom, pom over dam like beaver dam, all black and shiny. Me find 
plenty all same." 

'* Does any other Indian know of it ?" 

" No; me hunt 'em beaver all 'lone last spring, when me find 'em." 

*' Have you shown it to any white man?" we anxiously questioned. 

" Yes ; me show him ore, but no bed. No white man go see it." 

'* How far away is it?" 

" Me guess twelve miles over that way." 

The people ^out here laughed at the idea, and said the ore was no 
good, but the Indian had probably chipped it from a rock. But we had 
some further talk with him, and found that he had been at Graves' that 
morning, showing the ore to him, who had sent him after us. It seems 
that every one to whom he showed it, laughed at him; and no doubt, 
as Thompson thinks, Graves sent him to us that we might be led after 
the Indian on a "wild goose chase." 

The Indian being a very modest, honest looking fellow, we concluded 
to take him along with us at any rate; and inquired how much he 
would charge to remain in the woods with us until Saturday night. 

" Dollar, half, and 'bacco," he replied. 

To this moderate demand we assented ; so off we started with our 
packs on our backs. 

Our company consisted of Duncan and Malcolm McMartin, Dyer 
Thompson, our valiant nigger, the Indian, John Mclntyre and myself. 
By the way, the Indian's name is Lewis; his father's name is Elija and 
he calls himself Lewis Elija.* 

We (the descendants of Shem, Ham, and Japheth) trudged along the 
road in a peaceable manner; although it was plain to be seen that the 
descendant of Ham eyed the descendant Shem with suspicion, and 
kept at a most respectful distance. 

We followed the road- way through a clearing to the river, and wandered 
along its banks until we reached a point a mile above its bow. Dark- 
ness now approached; and we encamped for the night. Dyer cut an 
old birch tree for back and fore-logs — a tree which Mr. McMartin and 
I ascertained had withstood the blasts of one hundred and fifty winters. 
We procured the middle fire-wood from a huge pine that had been 
riven to splinters by the thunderbolts of heaven. Who could, that 
night, boast of so sublime a fire ? It was indeed a tremendous one, 
throwing a broad glare of light into the dark bosom of the wood. The 
very owls screeched as if wondering what it meant, and the blue-jays 
kept up an incessant chatter. Enoch said little, but thought much, 
always taking care not to be within a stone's throw of the Hebrew of 
the wilderness. 

But I find that neither time nor paper will admit of pursuing this 
train afiy longer. 

Tuesday and Wednesday were employed in running lines, and search- 
ing from near the ruins of the top of the largest burnt cobble, examining 

* This Indian was a cousin of Mltcliell Sat»attls, the celebrated guide, and 
douhtless his full name was Lewis Elijah Sabattis. It is possible that he 
was the son of " Old Sabele," the famous hermit of Indian Lake. 



346 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

every ledge as we went along. On Thursday we came across your old 
camp, and removed ours to within a gun-shot of it. Finished the ex- 
amination of that cobble by the evening. No signs of what we wanted. 

We had a good deal of conversation with the Indian about his ore- 
bed, and found him a sagacious and honest fellow, extremely modest, 
and willing to do anything. Before going any farther, I wish you to 
understand that this is not the same Indian that Malcolm McMartin 
had heard had discovered ' an ore bed near Elba. That was an old 
Indian, who showed his bed to one Brigham, but it was not good. 

On Friday morning we all started with the Indian for the ore bed — 
our course to a notch in the South mountains where the river Au Sable 
has its source. After a fatiguing journey we arrived at the notch — as 
wild a place as I ever saw. 

We had to travel through a narrow pass, with an immense rock rising 
perpendicularly on one side, our way almost blocked in many places by 
large masses of what had tumbled down. On the whole it was, a terrific 
place to think of traveling through. Our descendant of Ham gazed in 
a fit of astonishment when he found that we were scrambling on and 
must go through that which seemed so dreadful before him. 

"Well, now, dis beat all!" said he. " Fo' God Almighty's sake! 
How kin a body ever get ober dis ? What put it in yo' compurmhen- 
shun ever to come to sich a place ? I never think there be such hor- 
rificable place in all dis world ! * 

On we climbed, and came to a spot where we were all obliged to 
slide down with some caution. 

Enoch was brought to his trumps at this necessity; he liked not the 
idea of so long a voyage on his beam ends, and declared to me with a 
great deal of pettishness that " dis was a complete take-in." 

A few minutes afterward he made good his footing to a tree, but some 
green moss at its root having covered a dreadful hole, poor Enoch's leg 
was destined to fill it, and down he came, camp-kettle and all, the one 
leg pointing to the heavens, the other in the opposite direction; for it 
was a dreadful chasm below. 

"Well!" said I; "Enoch that is a complete 'take-in,' indeed I" 
At length we gained the summit of the notch — the very fountain-head 
of the Au vSable River where we found another stream running south. 
This appears to be the principal source of the Hudson River. 

We proceeded down the notch on the other side, and about half 
way were obliged to camp for the night. Our situation here was 
grand in the extreme — encamped at the head of North River in a nar- 
row pass, the moon glimmering by fits through the forest; the huge, 
perpendicular rocks on each side aspiring to the heavens for our cur- 
tains; the clouds for our canopy; the ground our bed and the infant 
murmurs of the giant river Hudson the music that lulled us to sleep. 

Astir betimes next morning, — it had every appearance of a rainy 
day, and we concluded to leave Enoch to make the camp as rain proof 

* The AlDorlgines are said to have deemed this desolate gorge haunted, or 
the ahode of the Evil Spirit ; hut nevertheless, through its portals led their 
well-worn trail, which gave this place the name of '-Indian Pass." 



HENDERSON'S LETTER.— (CoKtmued.) 347 

The Indian led us over a hill, and after traveling about four miles 
we came to the same stream on which we encamped the previous night 
but of course it was much larger. On crossing this we found a great 
many pieces of pure iron ore lying in the channel. Some were as large 
as a pumpkin We traveled down the stream about half a mile when 
to our astonishment, we found the bed of ore ! We had hitherto con- 
ceived It to be on the other side of the mountain. The river runs there 
nearly north and south and the vein strikes over it in a north-east and 
south-west direction. The Indian took us to a ledge five feet hieh 
nmning into the river, which was nothing but pure ore. He, however 
had no idea of the extent of the vein. ' 

We went one hundred yards below the vein, where is a waterfall of 
ITaTa ; D""fa\McMartin, his brother and the Indian, pro- 

ceeded down to a lake below^ (which is about four miles long) to make 
observations. Mr. Thompson. John and myself returned to the ore- 
bed to make a particular examination and to await their return 

We found the breadth of the vein to be about fifty feet. We traced 
It into the woods on each side of the river. On one side we went 
eighty feet mto the woods, and digging down about a foot of earth 
found a pure ore-bed there. ' 

Let me here remark ; this immense mass of ore is unmixed with any- 
thing. In the midd e of the river where the water runs over, the chan- 
nel appears like the bottom of a smoothing iron. On the top of the vein 
are large chunks which at first we thought were stone; but lifting one (as 
much as Thompson could do) and letting it fall, it crumbled into a 
thousand pieces of pure ore. In short, the thing was past all conception ! 
We traced the vein most distinctly, the veins parallel to each other 
and running into the earth on both sides of the stream. We had the 
opportunity to see the vein nearly five feet from the surface of it, on the 
side of the ledge that falls straight down into the water; and at this 
depth we made a cavity of a foot or two, where we found the ore 
crumbled to pieces. This, Thompson calls - sAot ore^' It was here of 
an indigo color. The grain of the ore is large. On the top of the 
ledge It seems to be a little harder than below, but not so hard but a 
chunk would break easily in throwing it down. Thompson considers it 
rich ore, and as we have now ascertained, entirely free from sulphur. 

Do not think it wonderful that this immense vein had not hitherto 
been discovered It is an extraordinary place ; you might pass the 
whole and think It rock;-it has been a received opinion that there was 
no ore south of the great ridge of mountains; a white man or even an 
Indian may not have traveled that way in years. But certain it is. here 
is the mother-vein of iron which throws her little veins and sprinklings 
over all these mountains. ^ 

t].?]''!;''^"' J^/^'^'^i'" ^""^ }^^ ^"^^^" returned to us. They paced from 
the lake and found it to be nearly a mile and a half from the ore-bed. 
The nearest house, where one Newcomb lives, is from six to eight miles 



' Lake Sanford. 



348 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

distant. The stream is excellent for works, and there is a good chance 
for a road to Newcomb where is a regular road. When the men re- 
turned to us the rain had begun to pour in torrents, and the day was 
nearly spent. We removed as much as possible all traces of work on 
the ore-bed — should it happen that any hunter might pass the spot. 

Drenched to the skin we hastened on our journey, the Indian our 
guide. What a wonderful sagacity is displayed by these unsophisticated 
children of the forest ! Let them but see sun, rivers or distant hills, or, 
failing those, the most indistinct previous tracks — they are never at a 
loss. " Here 'em bear to-day." " Moose here day 'fore yesterday." 
" Wolf here hour ago;" were frequent ejaculations of our Indian. I 
may here observe, when we were on the other side of the pass he turned 
up three tiers of leaves and said, " Brigham and me here two year ago." 

But to continue my narrative: Darkness came upon us, and we soon 
found that we had turned back — for we were going south with the 
stream. We made a great effort to return to the camp where we had 
left Enoch with our small stock of provisions that we had brought from 
our stationary camp; but it rained so hard we were weighted down 
with our wet clothes, and it was so dark we could hardly see our hands 
before our face. In short, we soon knew not in what direction we 
were going. The Indian now was of no more use as a guide than any 
of us; for without sun, head-lands or track, what could the poor 
Hebrew do? 

We were indeed on the same stream on which we had left Enoch ; 
but to travel along its banks in the dark, over wind falls and rocks, we 
found was impossible. As a last resource we plunged into the stream 
with the intention of wading up till we came to Enoch, but soon found 
that also impossible ;. and if it had been possible, dangerous. It was 
very cold also, for although all of us were as wet as water could make 
us, we were in a state of perspiration from the exertion, and it was 
consequently impossible for us to scramble up stream in the cold water. 
Being all wearied and hungry and Mr. Duncan McMartin feeling 
very ill, we halted about eight o'clock with the intention of waiting till 
morning. The prospect was very dreary. We had eaten nothing since 
early morning but a bite of biscuit, and all we had for supper was one 
partridge without any accompaniment, among six of us. We had great 
difficulty in getting fire — everything was wet, and the rain pouring 
down. The Indian at last got some stuff out of the heart of a rotten 
tree, and with some tow, he at length got a little fire started by the aid 
of my gun. But we had no axe, only a hatchet, and it being a place 
where there was little rotten wood, we could not with all our efforts 
make anything like a good fire. 

The rain wet faster than the fire dried us; and to make matters 
more unpleasant, it became very cold, with a shower of snow. We 
cooked our partridge, divided it into six parts, and I believe ate bones 
and all. Small as was the portion for each, it did us much good. 

It cleared off toward morning, and you may imagine we gave day- 
light a hearty welcome. We found ourselves only a mile from the 
place where we left Enoch, and hastened to him as fast as our stiff legs 
would carry us. 



Henderson's h^TTY.^.— {Continued.) 349 

We found him asleep after a wakeful night of** terrification '*' " The 
storm howled deadly," he said, *' all night." He did not shit his eyes 
for fear of bears, panthers, wolves and Indians, and the ** horricate " 
thought of being left alone in such a place. The very first thing we 
did was to drink up all the rum we had, raw— about a glass each; and 
the breakfast we made finished everything but a piece of pork about 
two inches square. We slept about two hours, then set out on our 
homeward journey. This was Sunday morning. We all, not excepting 
the Indian, found ourselves weak from previous exertion and fatigue 
and we had a pretty hard struggle to get back through the notch. ' 

Duncan McMartin's disorder continued, and we all felt that it would 
be impossible to reach our stationary camp that evening. So again we 
had the prospect of spending a day and a night without provisions. 
But we were more fortunate afterward. The Indian shot with the aid 
of Wallace, three partridges and a pigeon. One of the partridges flew 
some distance after it received the shot, and we gave it up as lost • but 
Wallace lingered behind, and in a short time brought it to us in his 
mouth. For the information of Mrs. Mclntyre in the way of cookery 
I will state, that with one of the partridges, the pigeon and a little 
piece of pork, we made an excellent soup in the camp kettle The 
other tw© partridges we roasted in the Indian fashion. This made a 
plentiful supper for all of us for which we were certainly thankful 

Next morning we started betimes for our camp, and the first thine 
we did upon arriving was to ** tap the admiral." I now felt happy 
enough and contented with having witnessed another scene of " Life in 
the Woods. ' 

Thompson declared that he had never experienced such a time We 
had now been out in the woods eight days without having our clothes 
ott, and we concluded to go into the settlement and recruit a little 

We arrived there that afternoon, and none of us received any iniurv 
from our little mishap. ^ •' ^ 

Next day the settlement turned out for a deer-hunt. I was on the 
opposite side of the river from the deer —he came running toward me 
and I waited expecting him to come into the river. But upon reaching 
the bank he discovered me and turned. When I fired, the ball brokl 
his hind leg. He bleated piteously, gave a spring, and fell into the 
river, head first. Thompson endeavored to get at him, but he turned 
about and got to the opposite side of the river out of his reach Poor 
creature ! He limped up the hill through the snow, his leg trailing 
behind him by the skin. He looked back and lay down two or three 
times before reaching the woods. The dogs followed him in and 
brought him out again. The poor mangled animal, lacerated behind 
by the ravenous dogs, was caught at last, and his throat cut. Confound 
the sport ! say I, if it is to be managed in this way ! 

Next morning we set off for the cobbles, over the Packard ridge 
where we have been till this day. This enormous iron bed has kept 
possession of our minds. I dreamed about it. We judge it best to 
lose no time in securing it, if possible. We will take the Indian with 
us up to Albany— dare not leave him in this country. Mr. McMartin 
has made all observations he can, so as to come at it in Albany, and the 



35° 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Indian has drawn us a complete map of all the country about. If it 
hsts been surveyed, there will be little difficulty; if not, there will be 
smieh — but it must be overcome. The thing is too important for delay. 
Speculation in Essex County is running wild for ore-beds. It would 
not benefit the Elba works — no chance of a road. But the vein lies on 
a stream where forges can be erected for thirty miles below it. No 
ore bed has yet been discovered on that side. We have shown speci- 
mens of the ore to some bloomers, — they said there w as no doubt about it. 
I have written you fully, and will write again upon our arrival at 
Albany as to what can be done. 

In the meantime I am, dear sir. 
Yours truly, 

David Henderson. 

In accordance with the plan expressed in the letter, Mr. Henderson 
and his associates repaired directly to Albany, where they purchased the 
htige tract of land embracing the principal beds of iron ore in this 
Kgion, Subsequently 300 acres were cleared, a road was cut through 
^e wilderness, so as to reach Lake Champlain, and with a capital of 
f 1, 000,000, (afterwards increased to $3,000,000), the "Adirondack 
Upper Iron Works," commenced on a grand scale.* But notwith- 
standing the extreme richness and inexhaustible abundance of this 
magnetic ore, (these beds being among the most extensive in the world) 
^e endless forest of hard wood, and the perfect water-power, the enor- 
moas expense attending the transportation of the iron nearly 50 m. over 
corduroy roads to Lake Champlain rendered the business unprofitable; 
and the tragic fate of Henderson, depriving the company of its resolute 
and enthusiastic leader, precipitated the abandonment of the enterprise 
and the utter desertion of the village. 

The vast surrounding tract, forming a grand private re- 
serve of 130,000 acres, styled Adirondack Club Preserve, 
is still the property of the Adirondack Iron & Steel Co. 
Sportsmen are not allowed to trespass upon this territory. 
Entertainment, li7nited to one nighty is furnished at the Club 
House of the company. The sleeping-rooms are large and 
the beds are good. The table is of remarkable variety and 
8s.cellence, with milk and cream in abundance, and trout a 
sertainty. (P. O., Tahawus). 

Were this a public resort, the Upper Iron Works, aside 
from their mineral resources, would have additional im- 
portance as a place of rendezvous for parties visiting the 

*Davia Henderson, ArcMbald Mclntyre, Duncan McMartin, ArcMbald 
Sobertson and David C. Golden were the original proprietors. Four moun- 
tains (and one lake) commemorate their names, viz: — "Henderson," "Mc- 
Sityre," "McMartin," (afterwards changed to "Golden") and "Robertson," 
isising near Lake Henderson. 




DAVID HENDERSON. 
From an Oil Painting owned by Robert Clarke. 



ADIRONDACK CLUB PRESERVE. 35 1 

various lakes and wonderful natural curiosities adjacent. 
The most important of these we will name: 

Lake Sanford, i m. S. of the village, (/. e.^ its inlet) is a 
river-like sheet, with a single island and fine mountain- 
views. In one place, apparently floating on its surface, is 
a curious rock- formation called "Napoleon's Cap," from 
its resemblance to the chapeau usually worn by the great 
commander. 

The Opalescent, wildest of rivers, enters its outlet after 
a turbulent flow from its mountain- girded home, thus en- 
riching the E. branch of the Hudson. 

Lake Sallie {yi x 1-16), lies 1 1^ m. S. E. of the village 
by road, and from there the trail leads to upper Ausable 
Lake, 13 to 15 m. E. (See p. 309). 

Lake Jamie (j^ x >^), is ^ m. E. of the village by path. 

Two miles S. W. of the "Works," Hunter's Pond or Lake 
Harkness, connecting with Lake Henderson, lies in beauty 
and solitude. It is most easily reached via a path leading 
W. I m. from the head of Lake Sanford. Lake Andrew, 
W. of the latter, most famous for trout, is about 4 m. S. W. 
of the village. It is most commonly visited by following a 
trail leading 2^ m. W. from a point about midway of the 
length of Lake Sanford. Its outlet flows into Lake Delia, 
lying 3 m. S. W. 

Lake Henderson, (2 x ^) (Ind., Ga-nuda-yu^ "Hand- 
some Lake,") lies Yi m. N. E. of the village. Its pictur- 
esque waters are held by a basin of solid rock and com- 
letely invested with lofty peaks. Looking towards the W., 
N. W., and N. E., a grand and well nigh overpowering 
spectacle greets the eye, of which Henderson, Santanoni, 
Golden, and the Indian Pass are the most imposing 
features. 

From the head of Lake Henderson, by a good, ascending 
path, it is 2 m. N. W. to the noted Preston Ponds. These 
three secluded lakelets are set in the midst of the most 
impressive scenery. Those heaven aspiring pinnacles, 
Henderson, Santanoni, (corrupted from St. Anthony; Ind., 
Si-non-do wan-ne^ " Great Mountain,") Seward, (Ind., 
(9z/ /^^r-/^>^, "Great Eye,") Wallface, etc., stand on every 



152 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



side in stern and solemn majesty. In our conversations 
with Mitchell Sabattis, he thus aptly and with aboriginal 
brevity expressed himself in reference to the section em- 
bracing Lakes Sanford and Henderson and the Preston 
Ponds. "It is a wild looking place; mountains thick all 
around you. Any one who don't want to see them must 
look right straight up !" 

These ponds vary from ^ to i m. in length, are only 
some 20 r. apart and are connected by unnavigable inlets. 
They are especially famed as trout resorts. The distance 




ADIKONDACK OR INDIAN PASS. 

from them to Mt. Seward is about 8 m. N. W. Cold River, 
their outlet, is tributary to the Raquette, some 12 or 15 m. 
distant. Several miles below the Ponds, it flows through a 
canon which is a remarkable piece of scenery. Quite a 
distance N. E. of this place, is White Cedar Pond. 

The Adirondack, or Indian Pass {Ind.^ Da-yoh-Jega go, 
"place of the Stonish Giants, where the storm clouds meet 
in battle with the Great Serpent.") 5 m. N. E. of the Iron 
Works, is more readily accessible from this locality than 
from any other habitable point. The well-beaten pathway 
leading to it from the head of Lake Henderson, and 



THE INDIAN PASS. 35J 

reached with boat, is traveled without much exertion ; but 
the examination of the gorge is toilsome enough. 

We do not pause here to describe fully this " splendid 
wonder," this great natural phenomenon. Headley, Street, 
Watson, and other brilliant writers, have so often and s© 
worthily celebrated its marvels that no further testimony 
in its behalf is needed at our hands. Enough to say that 
it is a tremendous defile lo to 15 rods wide, formed by the 
sloping heights of Mt. Mclntyre and the perpendicular 
precipices of Wallface Mountain uplifted to an altitude of 




TREES ON BOULDERS, INDIAN PASS. 

500 to 1,400 ft. and extending about i mile. Its floor is 
thickly strewn with enormous masses of rocks, on which 
the interlacing roots of trees frequently grasp the scanty 
soil like monster-talons.* These have been hurled into 
it from the impending cliffs, probably by the throes of an 
earthquake, as within the memory of Mitchell Sabattis this 
region has been shaken by one of those terrible convul- 
sions. — [LossiNG.] Yawning caverns have thus been crea- 

» One of these tooulders, of quadrangular form, measured 43 ft in lengith, 
41 In width and 35 in height, and had an estimated weight of 10,000,000 ids. 
or .5,000 tons ; and there are hundreds of others of nearly equal size. 



354 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

ted where solid ice exists throughout the year and whose 
gloomy depths, seldom penetrated by the rays of the siin, 
have sufficient capacity for sheltering a thousand men. 
Awful in its vastness, supreme in its sublimity, it is difficult 
to imagine any scene at once more terrible in its silence, 
more chaotic in its desolation, more savage in its magnifi- 
cence. Here side by side, 2,937 ft. above tide-water, the 
noble Hudson* and the impetuous Ausable are infant- twins 
in the same rough cradle. f The first issuing hence, passes 
through Henderson and Sanford Lakes and rolls onward in 
its passage of beauty and grandeur to the broad Atlantic. 
The other setting out on its more romantic and not less 
beautiful career, frequently sweeping along with the irresis- 
tible power of an avalanche, at last finds its resting place 
in the bosom of the comely Champlain.J; 

The 3 Scott Ponds, the highest sources of Ausable River, 
lie near the summit of Mt. WdUface. These remote, 
sequestered, and well-nigh inaccessible tarns, lying like 
jewels on the mountain's brow, are entirely unknown to 
the general traveler. Robert Scott, their discoverer, told 
Alfred B. Street, the "Poet of the Forest," that they 
send streams into the St. Lawrence via Cold River and the 
Raquette, into Lake Champlain by the Ausable, and the 
Atlantic by the Hudson. The largest is about 5^ m. long. 

From the head of Indian .Pass the trail, frequently skirt- 
ing the fretful Ausable, leads to Adirondack Lodge (Clear 
Lake) 6 m. distant, whence Lake Placid {g% m.). Moun- 
tain View House, (5^ m.). Cascade Lake House, (g}4 m.), 
etc., are reached by roads. (See pp. 319, 322.) 

Mt. Marcy is also accessible from the "Works" by a path 
leading N. E ; distance 12 m. Calamity Pond (5 m.) and 
Lake Colden (7 m.), distinguished for their great elevations 
and for the wild and majestic scenery that encompasses 
them, are passed on the way. 

*Named in honor of its discoverer. Henry Hudson. Ind., Co-ho-ta-te-a, 
"River of the Mountains." 

"Those peaks where fresh the Hudson takes 
His trihute from an hundred lakes." 

t It is said that a panther may place his hind feet in the spring-source of 
the Ausable, and lap water from the Hudson. 

t Near the summit of the Pass, (Point Looicout,) will he found a large rock 
which shelves upward 10 or 12 ft., forming a comfortahle shelter. 



ASCENDING TAHAWU; 



AVALANCHE LAKE. 



355 



Calamity Pond ! A melancholy interest is attached to 
this secluded little tarn from its having been the scene of 
the death of the unfortunate Henderson. And it was suit- 
ably named from that sad event. In this remote place, 
amid these more than Alpine solitudes, a unique and beau- 
tiful monument has been erected whose inscription tells 
thus its brief but touching story :— "Erected by filial affec- 
tion to the memory of our dear father, David Henderson, 
who accidentally lost his life on this spot, by the premature 
discharge of a pistol, 3d Sept. 1845." 

"How often has the wild wolf made his lair beside it ! 
How often the savage panther glared at its beautiful pro- 




HENDERSON MONUMENT, CALAMITY POND. 



portions and wondered what object met his blazing eye- 
balls!" — [Street.] 

Lake Golden (Ind., Ta-wis-ta-a, "The Mountain Cup,") 
is a noble sheet, graceful in contour, environed by the 
grand ramparts of Clinton, Colden and other stately towers, 
and by green forests unscorched by fire, untouched by axe. 

A large cabin has been erected here for the use and 
comfort of tourists en route to the mountains. 

Avalanche Lake (Ind., Ta-ne-o-dah-eh, "Lofty Lake,") 
lies \% m. N. of Lake Colden. Mt. Mclntyre, (Ind., Hen- 
oga, "Home of the Thunderer,") uplifts its towering and 



356 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



sometimes perpendicular heights from the western shore. 
Mt. Golden (Ind., Ou-no warlah, "Scalp Mountain,"*) rises 
precipitously from its waters, on the opposite side, and is 
nearly bisected from top to bottom by an enormous trap- 
dyke ; forming with the imposing surroundings, a picture 
of weird and rugged grandeur. It is one of the most im- 
pressive scenes in the Adirondacks. 




- ^^ --r^ ^*^ 



LAKE COLDEN. 

A trail passing along the western shore of Avalanche, 
leads to Adirondack Lodge, (Clear -Lake), 5 m. distant. 

*Lakes Colden and Avalanche now connected by a stream were originally 
one body of water. But years ago a tremendous avalanche swept dow^n the 
steep cliffs of Mt. Colden, thoroughly "scoi/)?"wg" its side, and creating two 
lakes from one. Under the rays of the sun, the track of this land-slide glit- 
ters like snow. Avalanche L. is S6 ft. higher than Colden. Its altitude is 
2,856 ft.; that of L. Colden, 2,770 ft. They are the highest Zafcr-sources of 
Hudson River. Lake-Tear-of-the-Clouds and Moss Lake are the most lofty 
ponfl-sources. There are no fish in Avalanche Lake. 



THE OPALESCENT. ASCENT OF TAHAWUS. 



357 



(See p. 323). At one place the frowning precipice has 
forced the path to the very water's edge ; but there, a 
floating log, securely fastened, offers a safe passage to the 
pedestrian. 

Leaving Lake Golden, 
whose outlet immediately 
enters the Opalescent, we 
follow, for a large portion 
of the route, the windings 
of this wild mountain tor- 
rent ; frequently crossing 
ing it on some of -the 
many boulders that break 
its surface. And was ever 
a translucent stream more 
richly tinted or more fitly 
named ? Its rocky bed 
glitters with crystals of 
that many-hued and most 
beautiful mineral, opales- 
cent feldspar, which "kin- 
dies this liquid diamond 
into the peacock's neck in 
hue." 

Soon we reach the no- 
ted "Flume,"(2 m. from L. 
Golden), where the river 
has forced a passage 
through a narrow cleft in 
the rocks, extending more 
than a mile, forming a 
spectacle of intensely ab- 
sorbing interest. The cas- 




OPALESCENT FALLS AND FLUME. 



cade of the Flume (50 ft.) 
(inexpressibly charming) 
the Indians styled: She-gwien dawkwe, "the Hanging 
Spear"; and the boisterous rapids a few rods above, Kas- 
kong-sha-di, "Broken Water.' * 



* On tlie Opalescent, 4 m. below the Flume, and 2 m. S. of L. Golden, oc- 
curs a succession of waterfalls, from so to 100 ft. high, of the most lovely de- 
scrip t'lon. 



35 8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Near this -point the trail diverges to the right from the 
old-time route, and follows, perhaps i m., the course of 
Feldspar Brook, the outlet of the lonely pool. Lake Tear, 
which anon is reached. From the camp, not far away, a 
half-mile scramble completes the ascent. Distance from 
Lake Golden, 5 m. (See pp. 310, 311, 325.) 

Of the glories awaiting the beholder at the summit of 
Tahawus we need not speak. As with the Indian Pass so 
with the mighty monarch of the cloud region. Most of our 
readers have acquired sufficient familiarity with the gorge- 
ous panorama here unfolded, from perusing the fascinating 
descriptions given by the writers already named. 

The district embracing Upper Iron JVorks,^ Indian Pass, 
Clear Lake, Keene Valley, Ails able Lakes and Elk Lake, 
may well be regarded as the"HEART of the Adirondacks." 
Here the mountains rise with a height and grandeur else- 
where unequaled in the region. Here we have the most 
magnificent grouping of the noble giants of the whole 
range.f 

[The Newcomb district is described under head oi Route 
Twenty -ninth J that of Long Lake under heading of the 
Raquette Waters ] 

Twenty -seventh — Crown Point, at the mouth of Putnam's 
Creek, 2 m. S. of Port Henry, and 18 m. S. of Westport, 
was the site of important military operations during the 
French and Revolutionary wars. The ruins of the old 
fort, 6 m. N., and those of the fortress of Ticonderoga 9 m. 
S.; also "Put's Oak," i^ m. W., are frequently visited by 
tourists as interesting objects of national history. (See p. 
217). The Lake House, with its delightful situation, is a 
popular place of sojourn for transient visitors. 

Crown Point is the E. terminus of the "Old State Road" 
commencing at Carthage, 134 m. distant. (See p. 127.) 

This route becomes identical with that leading from Port 
Henry, at '''Roofs,'' Schroon River. (See p. 340). 

* In several of his poems, the eminent poet, Hoffman, has woven into 
toeautlful verse charming legends of this locality. 

t These lofty elevations are supposed by scientists to he the oldest land 
■on the glohe, or the first that appeared ahove the waters. 





OUTLET OF PYRAMID LAKE. PARADOX LAKE. 



CROWN POINT. PARADOX LAKE. 359 

From Crown Point by C. P. & I. Railroad to Ham- 
mondsville, 12 m. (passing Penfield and Knob Ps. S.) fare 
60 cts.; thence, daily stage to head of Paradox Lake, 4 m.; 
fare, $1.15; Schroon Lake, 9 m.; fare, $2.10. Total dis- 
tance, 25 m. 

A correspondent of the Essex County Republican writes 
that arrangements have been perfected for rapid transit 
over the C. P. and I. R. R. Trains with palace coaches 
will connect with the afternoon train from New York at 
Crown Point, and convey passengers to Schroon Lake, via 
Ironville and Hammondville, in time for supper. Few 
persons beyond the vicinity are acquainted with this most 
picturesque route from Lake Champlain to the mountains, ' 
and nature's most perfect scenery, ever-changing into 
greater surprises, with views of hill, dale, and massive rocks, 
and passing through the raining village on the heights of 
Hammondville. From there through varied scenery along 
Lakes Paradox and Schroon, winding around the hills, the 
tallyho coach will make fast time to its pleasant destination. 
This will be the shortest and quickest route from Saratoga 
and points East. 

The Summit House, convenient to the depot at Ham- 
mondville, will be in readiness for tourists. 

Paradox Lake (4^ x ^) is so near the level of its out- 
let, Schroon River, that in seasons of freshets, the water 
flows into instead out of it ; hence its very suitable name. 
At such times boats pass down into Schroon Lake. Para- 
dox is a beautiful sheet, (really two lakes connected by 
narrows,) with pebbly beaches indented by miniature bays, 
and surrounded by rocky and enchanting shores ; and 
offering fair mountain views in nearly every direction. It 
yields no trout, but bass and pickerel are abundant. 

The Paradox House, situated on the S. shore (midway) 
is a pleasant resting-place, and is famed for its trout din- 
dinners. (P. O., Schroon Lake, N. Y.) 

Pyramid or Bel'eview Lake, i^ m. S. of Paradox L., is 
noted for its wild and beautiful scenery. This liquid tur- 
quois — engirdled by densely wooded peaks — is placed in 
the midst of a circlet of gleaming lakelets imbedded in the 
emerald and virgin forests. 



360 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In the vicinity are Bum Pond, N.; Long, Rock and 
Goose-Neck Ponds, E.; Putnam Pond, S. E.; Crane and 
Crab Ponds, and Pharaoh Lake, S., (the latter, 4^ m.); 
and Goose, and Gull Ponds, S. W. 

In addition to these waters, cliff, chasm, and cascade 
lend their picturesque charms to the neighborhood. 

Pyramid Lake House, a well-kept establishment, offers 
good accommodations, with all the requisites, to 100 guests. 
The lake is noted for its fine trout and bass fishing, and as 
it is private property, is held for the exclusive use of its 
patrons. It is a quiet, home-like and desirable summer- 
resort. (P. O , Paradox, N. Y.) 

Schroon Lake is a beautiful sheet and contests with Lake 
George for the title of "the Como of America." It is 91^ 
m. in length, and varies from ^ to 2 m. in width. Its 
designation is said by Lossing to be a corruption of "Scar- 
ron," the original name given to the lake and river. It 
received the appellation from a French officer, a young 
Count, who, with several companions, all stationed at Fort 
St. Frederick at Crown Point, visited it on a hunting ex- 
cursion in those early days, and christened it thus, in honor 
of the celebrated Madame de Maintenon, wife of the poet 
Scarron, who became morganatic queen of Louis XIV. 
Others say it is a corruption of the Indian word Sca-ni-a- 
da-roon, "a large lake," or of Scarona, the name of an In- 
dian girl who leaped over a precipice from her French lover 
and was drowned. Some claim it is derived from the Adi- 
rondack word Rogh qua non- da-go, signifying "Child of the 
Mountain." — [Street:] 

The western slopes of this miniature sea are clothed 
with sunny meadows and waving grain, interspersed with 
isolated trees. But the eastern shores are forest-clad and 
often rise with surprising abruptness from the water's edge. 
A curious phenomenon occurs in this lake. Inflammable 
gas in large quantities rises to its surface, and in the winter, 
through openings in the ice, it issues in large volume, which, 
when ignited, produces a brilliant flame many feet in height. 
Isola Bella ("Island Beautiful"; Indian, Cay-wa-noot,) gem- 
ming its bosom at the N. end, the site of the summer- 



SCHROON LAKE. ISOLA BELLA. 361 

residence of the family of the late Col. Bayard Clark, of 
New York, is one of the loveliest retreats on the continent. 

After the death of the original proprietor, Col. A. L. Ire- 
land, (a descendant of Sir John de Ireland, a Norman bar- 
on who accompanied William the Conqueror to England, 
and fought with him at the battle of Hastings, — Lossing^) the 
spot was abandoned for several years. At that time, when 
we visited the place, it seemed like a deserted castle in an 
enchanted wood ; but the present owners have restored it 
to its former condition, and improved it still further by 
beautifying the villa and the surrounding grounds — now 
bright with a thousand flowers. 

Near the head of the lake, on the north-western shore, 
delightfully overlooking its broad expanse, is the pleasant, 
and quiet, but flourishing village that bears its name. The 
streets are handsomely laid out and the place contains a 
number of large stores and pretty churches of the principal 
sects. A bright, laughing streamlet dancing its way through 
the little town, serves to increase its attractions. 

The hotel accommodations at Schroon Lake are not only 
equal to those of most of the famous watering-places, but 
the terms are far more reasonable. Here may be found 
Newport luxuries unaccompanied by Newport prices. It 
is a matter of no astonishment then, that this fascinating 
locality should be extensively sought by admirers of balmy 
air, landscape beauty, sporting facilities and elegant quar- 
ters. We will name first those located in the village. 

The Ondawa has long been known for the convenience 
of its arrangements, the excellence of its table, and the 
courtesy of the proprietors. "The old favorite," has kept 
pace with the improvements of the time and been modern- 
ized to meet the present demands. Its handsome grounds, 
shaded by stately elms and maples, embrace several acres, 
and are bounded on two sides by the lake. Its 300 ft. of 
piazzas front upon the park. It offers a desirable home to 
the summer-visitor. Capacity, 100. 

The Lake House, E. of the Ondawa, has a charming sit- 
uation near the steamboat landing. ' It is well arranged, 
commodious, and suitably furnished. All necessary com- 
forts are provided without offensive display. It is a very 



I 



362 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pleasing resort for those who desire to spend a few weeks 
on the shores of the lake. It receives 60 guests. 

The Leland House, a large and admirable edifice, 
stands on a prominent bluff at the eastern extremity of the 
village. Nothing could be more fortunate in the way of a 
site; and to the beauty of its position, the place doubtless 
owes much of its popularity as a summer-resort. It com- 
mands a bewitching view of the lake from three sides of 
the building, some of the grandest of the Adirondack 
Mountains from the other, and the exquisite scenery of the 
Schroon Valley in either direction. It has a magnificent 
frontage of 162 feet facing south, across which and the 
eastern end of the building extends a grand piazza 22 feet 
high, 13 feet wide, and 346 feet long, overlooking the lake. 
The observatory of the house, 107 feet above the water, 
affords a prospect not surpassed by many in the Adiron- 
dacks, which region contains few lakes more lovely than 
the Schroon. The grounds, embracing 6 acres, and ex- 
tending to the shores on the south and east, are beauti- 
fully laid out, and adorned with evergreen-trees, shaded 
lawns, flower-beds, shrubbery and fountains. A fine ten- 
nis-court, walks and drives gracefully winding in different 
directions, and several rustic summer-houses add much to 
the attractiveness. Every kind of diversion and exercise 
may be enjoyed. 

The Leland, since its first season, has been several times 
enlarged and improved to meet the requirements of its 
increasing business. Thus it has become, in its every 
appointment, a marvel of excellence and completeness. Its 
reputation is so well established it is unnecessary to enter 
into full details. The traveler may rest assured that all the 
appliances that go to make a first-class, modern hotel have 
been provided here. It is the rendezvous of prominent 
people from many sections, and an atmosphere of comfort, 
convenience and refinement pervades the place. 

The cuHnary department is in charge of an experienced 
steward and caterer, and the table is bountifully supplied 
with the substantial, delicaces and luxuries of the season. 
Vegetables and milk from the Leland House farm. Nu- 
merous liveries and boats, two lake steamers, post, express 



SCHROON LAKE. LELAND HOUSE. ^6^ 

and telegraph offices, the stores and churches of the village, 
good roads and drives and new walks for pedestrians, and the 
charms of the surrounding country, afford the pleasures of 
rural and forest life combined with modern social con- 
veniences and religious services, and offer unusual attrac- 
tions to all in search of health and enjoyment during the 
summer. It accommodates, with its several cottages, nearly 
300 guests. 

The Windsor, W. of the Leland, has many attractive 
characteristics and is worthy of commendation. Capacity, 60. 

Among the several boarding-houses, all pleasantly situ- 
ated in the village, are Arlington Cottage, capacity, 35; 
Leland Cottage, 30; and Prospect House, 35. 

The Grove Point House is picturesquely situated on a 
promontory on the W. shore of the lake, ^ m. S. of the 
village. It has spacious verandas extending 300 ft. and 
affording the usual delightful outlooks. It has many at- 
tractions and is entitled to high recommendation. It is 
handsomely and commodiously furnished, and managed 
with the liberality that its patronage demands. Capacity, 
100. (P. O , Schroon Lake, N. Y.) Steamers touch at the 
landing six times daily. 

Watch Rock Hotel is nearly 6 m. S. of the village, 
on the eastern shore of the lake. The location is upon a 
commanding eminence within a grand reservation of the 
primeval forest, and in close proximity to the legendary 
"Watch Rock," to which a good walk extends along the 
border of the water. It commands an extensive view of 
the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. Upon 
the S. W. and N. charming vistas have been opened, look- 
ing out upon the lake in the foreground, the adjacent hills, 
valleys and wilderness, and the rugged sides and towering 
pinnacles of the Adirondacks and other mountains in the 
distance. 

The summit of Mt. Marcy, and others of note, can be 
seen from the observatory of the house. From Park's Mt., 
distant 2 m., the scenery is unsurpassed, including views of 
Mts. Marcy, Mclntyre, Colden, Skylight, Pharaoh, Dix's 
Peak, Nipple Top and many other lesser peaks, and seven 



364 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

beautiful lakes. S. the Catskills, and E. the snow-capped 
summit of Mt. Washington are plainly visible. 

This elegant hotel, the liberal and rapidly increasing 
patronage of which has hitherto demanded its utmost 
capacity, has been recently enlarged, and in connection 
with the several cottages, placed on the beautifully shaded 
grounds, has now ample accommodations for 125 guests. 
The rooms are large and airy, — many of ihem arranged en 
suite for families wishing to spend the summer. The cui- 
sine is excellent, and one of the most noted mountain- 
springs in the region supplies the house constantly with the 
purest water. Large sums have been expended in im- 
proving the grounds, which embrace 15 acres. 

Situated in the midst of lofty peaks, no purer atmosphere 
can be found. The nights are deliciously cool and the 
temperature uniformly agreeable. The place is free from 
mosquitoes and all other insect pests. 

The drives are fine in all directions, and suitable turn- 
outs are furnished at moderate rates. Direct telegraphic 
communication; two daily mails; sail and row boats; music 
and dancing, and all the usual diversions are enjoyed in 
the fullest degree. No more acceptable "Tourists' Home" 
can be found in the whole line of travel. (P. O , Adiron- 
dack, N. Y.). 

There is a little hamlet here commonly called Mill 
Brook. The fine cottages of Geo. W. Cotterill, Judge 
John J. Freedman, Judge John K. Porter, and other New 
Yorkers are near the hotel. 

Route to Mill Brook : — Adirondack R. R., from Saratoga 
to Riverside, 50 m.; thence 6 m. in Leavitt's Concord 
coaches to Pottersville; thence to Schroon L., i m ; thence 
by steamer Gypsy or Effingham^ 4 m. to Watch Rock Land- 
ing. 

From Watch Rock Hotel it is i m. to Trout Brook; 
3 m. to Valentine Pond (i x ^); 2 m. to Biederman's 
Bay; 6 m. to Lake Pharaoh; 6 m. to Friend's Lake; 7 m. 
to Loon Lake; 5 m. to Brant Lake; 5 m. to Pottersville; 
II m. to Riverside; 9 m. to Chestertovvn ; and 7 m. to 
Natural Bridge. 



SCHROON LAKE. TAYLOR HOUSE. 365 

The Taylor House is on the W. side of the lake, opposite 
Mill Brook. Embosomed in a grove of native.pines, it stands 
on an imposing bluff, styled Lake View Point, elevated loo 
ft. above the level of the lake, into which it picturesquely 
extends. Closely adjacent are 15 or 20 neat and tasteful 
cottages, offering pleasant and home- like accommodations 
to guests. The table is supplied with the products of a large 
farm connected with the premises. The prospect from 
"Taylor Villa" is one of the most charming that this section 
affords. To the N. E, and S. stretch away the fair waters of 
the lake; N. and S. the beauteous Schroon Valley for scores 
of miles is in view, and in the N.W. many of the most majestic 
peaks of the Adirondack Range, including Marcy, greet the 
eye. The beautiful and well-shaded grounds, are threaded 
by a mile of board-walks, and offer delightful promenades. 
They are illuminated in the evening by electric lights, and 
afford the usual out-door amusements. Telegraph and 
post-office (" Taylor's-on-Schroon ") in the house. The 
traveler will find here every necessary comfort and con- 
venience and an admirably conducted establishment. The 
proprietors are untiring in their attention to guests. The 
quiet restfulness of the place is one of its marked features. 
It is very popular as a family-hotel and commands large 
patronage. Though Taylor's may be reached by carriage 
from the N. or S., the steamers offer the best and cheapest 
mode of transit, as they land semi- daily. Routes the same 
as those to Watch Rock Hotel. Has capacity for 180. 

Nor is this locality deficient in attractions of another 
kind. To the sportsman it offers an interesting and not 
overworked field ; and he as well as other pleasure-seekers 
will find enough to occupy his time while tarrying here. 
Schroon Lake itself is richly stocked with bass and trout — 
the latter of unusual size. Other kinds of fish are also 
taken in great numbers. Days and weeks may be pleasant- 
ly passed in visiting the various waters, including those 
mentioned at Mill Brook, that lie in the neighborhood. 
The principal of these we will name: — 

Goose Pond (70 acres), 21^ m. N. E. of the village, is 
remarkable for the marvelous clearness and purity of its 
waters, surpassing in this respect, it is claimed, those of 



366 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lake George, which, it is known, have been employed as 
"holy water." 

Crane Pond (if^ x i^), ^ m. N. E. of Goose Pond, 
furnishes an abundance of pickerel, some of them attaining 
a weight of 25 or 30 lbs. 

Crab Pond is about 2 m. S. E. of Crane Pond. 

Gull Pond (12 acres), is perhaps the same distance S. W. 
of Goose Pond. 

Lake Pharaoh (2x^3) (Ind., On-nis-ske, "White, or 
Silver Lake,") long but very narrow, is 6 m. E. of the vil- 
lage, and laves, with its crystal waters, the base of Mt. 
Pharaoh, (Ind , On-de-wa^ "Black or Bluebeard Mountain,") 
and other stately masses surrounding it.* Desolate Pond 
is passed en route. From the summit of Mt. Pharaoh, 
which rises almost perpendicularly from the waters of the 
lake, the view is simply superb. 

One m. S. of this is Whortleberry Pond (35 acres). 

Spring Hill Pond is near Lake Pharaoh. A white deer 
was killed there several years ago. 

Lizard Pond is about 3 m. S. E. of Pharaoh. 

Brant Lake (5 x 3-5) lies 9 to 11 m. S. E. of the village. 

Bartlett's Pond (15 acres), W. of the village, and Rogers' 
Pond (ij4 X 5^), and Little Rogers' P., likewise W. 3 m. 
furnish fine trouting. 

North of these waters ^ m., is North Pond (^ x j4). 

Deer-hunting is excellent at most of these resorts, especi- 
ally at Goose and Gull Ponds, where hunters seldom fail 
to meet with success. They are all easily reached by good 
roads or paths. The necessary equipments for sporting 
expeditions are furnished by the principal hotels. 

As Schroon Lake has a very picturesque country-environ- 
ment, the drives about the place are rich in interest and 
variety. Among the most popular of these are the follow- 
ing: 



*A vast tract in tliis vicinity, including Lake Pharaoh, forming a grand 
rivate preserve, is o\\ ' ' ' 
Plckhardt of New York 



private preserve, is owned hy the " Schroon Lake magnate," Mr. Wilhelm 
- ■ - rdt - " " ' 



EXCURSIONS FROM SCHROON LAKE. 367 

MILES. 

Schroon Lake Village to foot of Paradox Lake, 3)^ 

Schroon Falls, . . 5 

S. Schroon (Taylor House), 3^ 

Alder Meadow, . 4 

Mt. Severance, . 2^ 

Mt. Hoffman, . . 5 

Charley Hill, . 4^ 

Schroon River (" Roots "), 9 

Charley Hill, an elevation of 700 ft., affords fine views. 
In the round trip (9 m.) the ride is so varied that the same 
ground is passed over but once. 

By varying the trip to Paradox L., and traveling 10 m. 
instead of 7, only 2 m. of the route are passed over twice. 
These rides, especially the two last named, offer a series of 
the most beautiful views. 

Several neighboring mountains are visited from Schroon. 
Mt. Hoffman, (Blue Ridge) 5 m. N. near the route to 
" Roots," is frequently ascended and at the cost of but 
little exertion, as there is a bridle path to the summit, 4 m. 
and one can drive 2 m. The view is superb. 

Mt. Severance, 2;^ m. N., ^/^ m. from the road to 
'' Roots," is ascended with carriage. 

Mt. Marcy, Dix's Peak and Hunter's Pass are also visited 
via Schroon River and Elk Pond, (the road diverging 1. y^ 
m. S. of " Roots "). (See p. 340). 

Schroon Lake Village as noted before is conveniently 
reached from Lake Champlain by R. R. from Crown Point 
to Hammondville (12 m.); thence daily line of excellent 
coaches (13 m.); fare, $2.10. 

It is more often visited from Saratoga Springs, via 
Adirondack R. R. to Riverside (50 m ; fare, ^2.00); 
thence by Leavitt's Concord coaches to Pottersviile, (6 m % 
fare, $1.00 to Schroon Lake)', thence to the lake, nearly i 
m.; thence through the lake, 9 m. by the steamer Gypsy or 
Effiingham, making two trips daily each way, and touching 
at every resort. Fare, 75 cts. Strenuous efforts are being 
made to secure the construction of a branch railroad from 
Riverside to Schroon Lake. A tiny steam-yacht descends 
the outlet (Schroon River; Ind , Gain-bou-a-gwe, "Crooked 



368 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

River,") 5 m. to Starbuckville, where we find another 
pleasant resort, "Sunnyside." 

The " Great Northern Highway," starting from Moreau 
and Fort Edward, skirts the margin of Schroon Lake, pass- 
ing through Pottersville, Schroon Lake Village, Schroon 
River ("Roots," p 340). (9 m.,) Elizabethtown, (32 m.,) and 
terminating at Keeseville (54 m ). Stages run in either 
direction. The ride is a delightful one, especially over 
that portion of the route embraced by the Schroon and 
Bouquet Valleys. (See pp. 286, 288, 340). 

Twenty- eighth : — Fort Ticonderoga (Ind., Che-on-de- 
ro-ga, "where the waters meet"; or Ti-a-on-ta-ro-ken, "a 
point between two lakes "), 24 m. N. of Whitehall, which 
was the scene of a celebrated Revolutionary conflict familiar 
to every American and around which cluster recollections 
of many ancient and modern heroes, is a delightful point 
of entrance to Lake George (R. R. to Baldwin near foot of 
the lake, 4^ m.; fare, 75 cts.; see p. 217"^), as well as to 
the Great Wilderness. Mt. Defiance is a prominent object 
in the surrounding landscape. Pavilion Hotel, situated on 
the shore of the lake, is a charming resort. (See p. 215). 

From Fort Ticonderoga to Long Pond {2V2 x j^), (Ind., 
Quin-e-baug, "long pond"), an excellent fishing locality, 
it is 11^ m.; thence to Paradox Lake ij^ m.; Schroon 
Lake, 9 m. Total, 22 m. From Paradox Lake to Schroon 
River ("Root's"), 10 m. Thence the route has already 
been given. (See p. 340). 

Twenty-ninth : — From Fort Edward, D. & H. Branch 
R. R. to Glens Falls, 5 m.; fare, 20 cts ; Caldwell (head of 
Lake George), 10 m.; fare, 95 cts.; stage thence to Chester- 
town, 18 m.; fare, $2.25 ; Riverside (on Adirondack R. R.) 
5 m.; fare, $300. Total distance, 28 m. (See Route 
Thirtieth.) 

Fort Edward, on the D. & H. R R., is a prosperous 
village, finely situated on Hudson River. It has great 
historical celebrity. Near this place, in 1777, occurred 
one of the saddest events named in American annals, viz : — 

* Ttie railroad, about midway its length, passes tlirougli the flourishing 
village of Ticonderoga, 






JANE MCCREA. GLENS FALLS. 369 

the killing of Jane McCrea, a captive in the hands of the 
Indians.* Baker's Falls, on the Hudson, i^ m. above 
the village, will richly repay a visit. 

Glens Falls, (Rockwell's Hotel) a very important town, 
possesses great beauty of situation and immense manufac- 
turing interests. Here the Hudson pours its impetuous 
tide over a steep ledge of black rock 6^ feet high, forming 
a scene which approaches the sublime. When the island 
below the falls was peopled with Cooper's imaginative 
characters, the spot must have been wild and romantic in 
the extreme. But from the stern exactions of commerce, 
has resulted a radical change. Mill-owners have usurped 
the enormous water-privilege the stream affords; and now 
general utility, and not romance prevails. Quarries of 
black marble, highly ptized for its freedom from flaws, 
and hmestc ne nre extensively worked in the neighborhood. 

Leaving Glens Falls, the scenery increases in interest as 
we pass along, making considerable pretension to wildness 
and beauty. Hills of moderate height rise around us and 
in the distance are seen, in exquisite coloring, the lofty 
Green Mts. of Vt. Wooded ravines and sparkling cascades, 
occasionally lend additional charms to the joutncy. We 
f/rn-"^'^ ^^'^veling over historic ground. We pass Col. 
Williams' monument on the left, and Bloody Pond on the 
right^ the scene of the terrible engagement in 1755, between 
the English and French with their Indian allies, resulting 
in the death of the gifted Williams and the noble " King 
Hendrick," the renowned orator and warrior of the Six 
Nations t Suddenly, like a beautifu l vision, is revealed to 

ir.!"^^? tndians, with tlieir prisoner laslied to tlie toack of a liorse, were flee- 
t^lS*'^'"®^^®l^^?°^ent Of American soldiers, when a volley warflredbv 
K-S ThA^vipi\'l^,^t^^^^^ ''^ ^^^' ^^^ accidentall7Slled Miss 

oantv?" whnp w^ifnH^' ^'^^^ ^° their barbarous custom, scalped theirlovely 
offi ®' ^^l\® Her body was quivering in the throes of deatbu Immediately 
SeSl ofthJ^LfSS^?^ "-^^'^ ^°T trophy-the long, black,Zd sflkeS 
ti esses Of the unfortunate maiden— to her aflianced lover, and the terrible 
experience rendered him partially insane for the remainder of iSs life 

nJJ} }? ^^^^ that Joseph Brant (Thavendanegea) the celebrated Mohawk 
Zf?\diZ%^J'j:^^''^ °^'^' *°^^' ^^ ^^'^ ^'^ttle, his first lesson tothe art Of 
war, and at the commencement "trembled like an aspen leaf"- but during 

t?the end."' ""^ ^^' '''"^^'^' ^' "'"^^^"^ ^^' composure, and fought b?ave^f 

1 ^i^^*^°^? ^°^^ commemorates by its name this sanguinary battle The 
bodies of nearly 1,000 of the slain, mostly FrenchnieS, fouM, hi its dark 
weird and sequestered waters, a di-eary sepulchre. ' 



370 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the enraptured eye the gleaming silver of the queen of 
American waters, Lake George; with its rocky and 
verdure-draped islands, its bold and delightful shores, its 
forest-clad and majestic mountains — one sweep of enchant- 
ing beauty, "where all that's grand, with all that's sweet, 
entwine." 

" Loch Katrine, at the Trosachs, is a miniature likeness 
of Lake George. It is the only lake in Europe that has 
the same style or degree of beauty. The small green is- 
lands with their abrupt shores — the emerald depths of the 
water, overshadowed and tinted by the tenderest moss and 
foliage — the lofty mountains in the background — and the 
tranquil character of the lake, over which the wind is ar- 
rested and rendered powerless by the peaks of the hills, 
and the lofty island summits, are all points of singular 
resemblance. Loch Katrine can scarcely be called pictur- 
esque however, except at the Trosachs; while Lake George 
throughout all the mazes of its three hundred and sixty- 
five islands,* preserves the same wild and racy character 
of beauty. Varying in size from a mile in length, to the 
circumference of a tea-table, these little islets present the 
most multiplied changes of surface and aspect — upon some 
only moss and flowers, upon others a miniature forest, with 
its outer trees leaning over to the pellucid bosom of the 
lake, as if drawn downwards by the reflection of their own 
luxuriant beauty. 

" Nor is it alone the ever varying splendor of the lake, 
made classic by the struggles of our colonial wars, and by 
the pen of our great romancer, that claims the admiring 
eye of the wondering stranger. Hidden in the shadows of 
the forest are the lodges of a lingering remnant of the once 
mighty tribe of Mohicans, who here, where echoed the 
triumphant war-whoop of their forefathers, now win a 
precarious life by practicing the simple arts of 'the gentle 
savage.' Yet, though the tears of many years of sorrow 
have washed all traces of the war-paint from their cheeks, 
and the tomahawk that struck their Mingo foes has long 
since been buried in the dust, the birch canoes of the 

* Said to be just ttiat number,— if all the rocky ledges are included,— one 
lor each day in the year. All but IT are owned by the State. 



LAKE GEORGE. 371 

children o. rhe Lenni Lenape still dance at evening o'er the 
bosom of ilxc ' Horicon,' and the skill of Uncas gleams in 
the flight of their unerring Indian arrow." — (N. P. Willie). 

Lake George has received as many as seven different 
names, some of which were more appropriate than the one 
finally adopted. The Aborigines who first peopled its 
shores, styled it An di-a ta-roc-ti, and Ka-nordo-rOy^' t\\Q 
place where the lake narrows, contracts or shuts itself;" 
also Ca ni-de-ri-oit, "the tail of the lake," doubtless regard- 
ing it as an appendage to Lake Champlain. 

In 1646, just four years after he discovered it,* the devout 
Father Jogues, first missionary of the Iroquois, reached it 
the second time with his companions on the eve of the 
festival of Corpus Christi. Then, when, "like a fair Naiad 
of the Wilderness, it slumbered between the guardian 
mountains that breathe from crag and forest the stern 
poetry of war," he named it Lac du St. Sacrement, " the 
Lake of the Blessed Sacrament," in honor of the day; and 
it is still known to the Catholics by that- appellation. Its 
waters, on account of their remarkable purity and trans- 
parency, were carried by them great distances for baptismal 
purposes. Its secluded situation, once far aside from the 
great thoroughfares of travel, long assisted to preserve its 
sacredness of character. In 1745, the French General, 
Devillers, called it 'Lake St. Laurent'' Sir VVm. Johnson, 
in 1755, while flaunting the red cross of England before 
the lily of France, gave it, in compliment to the reigning 
sovereign, George II, f the name by which it has since been 
recognized; although the Indian title of Horicon, ^\<gvv\{y- 
ing "Silvery Water," bestowed upon it by Cooper, and 
redolent of fitness and euphony, should certainly be re- 
stored J 



"•First of white men, Jogues and liis associates gazed on the romantic 
lake that hears the name, not of its gentle discoverer, but of the dull 
Hanoverian king."— (Pakkman). 

It is claimed hy some historians that Champlain penetrated to Lake George 
between I6O9 and 1613, and hence was the first white man to visit its shores. 

t"I am building a Fort at this Lake where no house was ever before built 
nor a rod of land cleared, which the French call Lake St. Sacrament; but I 
have given it the name of Lake George, not only in honor to His Majesty but 
to ascertain his undoubted Dominion here."— [Sir Wm. Johnson]. 

t Named from the Indian tribe, "Les Horicans," once inhabiting the 
bordering forest. 



372 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Its length is 34 m., its width i tp 4 m., and it enters Lake 
Champlain through its outlet (" Sounding Water ") by a 
descent of 150 ft. near the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, about 
4 m. distant. (See p. 215). 

The scenery and the real and traditional history of this 
section are alike attractive. Perhaps no other locality in 
this country, so richly abounds in natural loveliness and 
historical interest combined. " Each mountain, precipice, 
and cape has its own tales and reminiscences of the olden 
time. Some of the fiercest conflicts of the last long wars 
between the French and English colonists took place upon 
it shores, and the pure and peaceful waters of this lovely 
lake were often ensanguined with the blood of fierce com- 
batants. Again, during the Revolution, war held high 
carnival; but since that period its visitors have been prin- 
cipally the lovers of the wild and beautiful in nature." 
The recounting of those thrilling events, too numerous for 
the scope of this work, come within the province of the 
historian, not ours. (See p. 215). 

Caldwell, a quiet, tree- embowered village, nestles at the 
foot of Mt. Ferguson (Prospect) which rises from the head 
of the lake. It was named in compliment to Gen. Jas. 
Caldwell, once the principal proprietor, and a liberal 
benefactor. 

A road runs from the village to the summit of Prospect 
Mt., where the Mt. Ferguson House offers good entertain- 
ment, and almost incomparable views. 

Two elegant steamers, the Horicon and the Ticonderoga^ 
owned by the Champlain Transportation Company, 
make two round trips daily, touching at all the landings. 
Fare, $2.00. At Baldwin, near the outlet, cars are taken 
for Fort Ticonderoga (41^^ m.; fare, 75 c.) which closely 
connect with trains on the D. & H. R. R., or Steamer 
Vermont on Lake Champlain. (See p. 217). 

Leaving Caldwell in the trip down the lake, the lovely 
little islet, known as Tea Island first solicits our attention. 
The next is Diamond Island, deriving its name from the 
profusion of crystals formerly found upon it. The next 
important point is Long Island, the largest of all. Near 
the centre of the lake beyond, is Dome Island, recognized 



■a 

:. > 

' X) 

1 > 

D 

! on 




LAKE GEORGE. ROGERS SLIDE. 



373 



in the distance by its dome-like arch. West of this is 
Recluse Island, a little spot occupied by a cottage, as are 
many other islets. The next landing is Bolton. Be- 
yond this is Fourteen Mile Island. In this vicinity is re- 
ported to be the best fishing grounds in the lake. Shelving 
Rock, a high cliff on the eastern shore, and Tongue Moun- 
tain, a bold and beautiful promontory on the opposite side, 
form the entrance to the Narrows. This portion of the 
lake is celebrated for its strikingly picturesque beauties. 
It is often referred to as the " Thousand Islands of the St. 
Lawrence," in miniature. The Narrows is a contracted 
passage of the lake, where the opposite shores nearly ap- 
proach each other, and beyond and in view, the numerous 

islands so cluster to- 
gether and crowd 
the lake, that only a 
sinuous track re- 
mains to be threaded 
by the steamer. Near 
Pearl Pt. is Paradise 
Bay, the most charm- 
ing nook in the en- 
tire lake. Immedi- 
ately north of Shelv- 
ing Rock, on the 
east side of the lake, 
will be noticed Black 
Mountain, the lofti- 
est peak in this sec- 
EOGERS' SLIDE, LAKE GEORGE. tion. Guides may 

always be obtained to ascend the mountain, and from its 
summit will be enjoyed an extensive and delightful view. 
Nearly opposite Black Mountain is Half Way Island, indi- 
cating half the distance between Caldwell and Baldwin. 
We pass several little islands, designated by various fanci- 
ful names. On the E. shore lies, at the foot of a pleasant 
bay, the small settlement of Dresden. Nearly opposite, on 
the W. shore, is Buck's Mountain ; its name originated from 
a sensational story that a buck in leaping from a precipice 
became impaled on the sharp limbs of a dead tree. The 
next object that will be noticed is Sabbath Day Point, a 




374 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

narrow spit of land projecting into the lake.* On the 
other side is Bluff Point and Odell Island, and on the W. 
the Scotch Bonnet. Farther N., rising in the midst of 
charming scenery and near choice fishing grounds, two 
prominent cliffs will be noticed ; Anthony's Nose on the 
E., and Rogers' Slide, four hundred feet high, on the W. 

The latter received its name from an incident traditionally related of 
the escape of Maj. Robert Rogers at this place in the winter of 1758. 
It is generally stated that upon being surprised on the summit of this 
rock by an approaching party of Indians, he reversed his snow-shoes, 
and treading in his tracks, withdrew from the spot and reached the base 
by a circuitous route, whence he sped up the lake on the ice towards 
Fort George. But it is authoratively claimed by Spafford that he act- 
ually did retreat down the frightful declivity^ by means of seams or 
cavities occurring on its face. He states in his Gazetteer, that in 1822, 
a very old man, who was one of Rogers' party, related to him many 
particulars of that daring adventure. The savages, according to Sabattis, 
have a singular superstition, that the witches or evil spirits haunt 
Rogers' Rock (Ind., At-al-a-po-sa, "sliding place", and seizing upon the 
spirits of the bad ones of their race, on their way to the happy hunting 
grounds, slide down the cliff with them into the lake, where they are 
drowned (Dr. Holden) So when this band of dusky warriors reached 
the verge of the precipice and saw the daring ranger fleeing from them 
like the wind, they concluded that the Great Spirit had taken especial 
charge of him and it was useless for them to pursue him farther. 

Two miles beyond, after passing Prisoner's Island, the 
steamer reaches her landing at Baldwin. A delightful ride 
on the cars along the picturesque course of the river, 
abounding in the most exciting associations of history and 
tradition, conveys the traveler to the Pavilion, a fine hotel 
near the ruins of "Fort Carillon." — [Watson]. The de- 
lights experienced in this romantic journey will cling to the 
memory for a lifetime. The route through Lake George 
forms an important link in the line of pleasure-travel from 
New York, Catskill Mountains, Saratoga and other popular 
resorts going north ; or from Niagara Falls, Montreal, 
Quebec, White and Green Mountains, the Adirondacks 
and other interesting localities to the south. The shores 
of Lake George are studded with superior hotels (not to 

•After great research we have decided that this name was derived from 
the following event :— During the French War, a small detachment of British 
troops landed at this place on the Sabbath, and fought a sanguinary hattle 
with a greatly superior force of Indians, who were in alliance with the 
French. Finally, the English, were overpowered ; and having no chance to 
retreat, were all destroyed. 



LAKE GEORGE. FORT WM. HENRY HOTEL, 375 

name private cottages) among which may be mentioned 
the following:— Lake House, Ferguson, Sherman, Sheldon, 
Lake View, Central, Grove, Hulett's Landing, Trout Pavil- 
ion, Crosbyside, Kattskill, Fourteen Mile Island, loo 
Island, Mohican, Bolton, Sagamore, Pearl Point, French 
Point, Horicon and Rogers' Rock. 

The celebrated Fort William Henry, near Caldwell, 
at the head of the lake, (P. O., Lake George) occupies the 
site of the fort from which it derived its name. It is a 
palatial establishment — perhaps the grandest and most 
finely located of the kind in the wide world. The traveler 
will here find princely accommodations for a vast number, 
and everything that constitutes a first-class hotel in all its 
branches. From the dome or broad verandas is revealed 
one of the loveliest scenes in America. The spacious 
grounds are an Elysium of beauty. This hostelry is con- 
ducted with the characteristic success of the accomplished 
managers. 

Vestiges of the wall and outworks of the fort are still to 
be seen. It was leveled with the ground by Montcalm and 
never rebuilt. Fort George was erected on a more com- 
manding site as a substitute; but it was never the scene of 
any important event. — (Mather). 

It was from this point that Gen. Abercrombie, in 1758, 
with a proud and powerful army of 16,000 men, passed 
down the lake. His flotilla, numbering 1,000 boats, pre- 
sented a splendid spectacle, floating along with marvelous 
regularity and seemingly irresistible power. Thus he 
moved onward with all the gorgeous pomp of a victorious 
commander returning in triumph from a conquered field, 
while in fact he was advancing to inglorious defeat under 
the walls of Fort Ticonderoga. (See p. 215). 

From the waters of Lake George large trout and other 
fish are frequently taken. Scattered along its course, on 
the elevated ground W. of the lake, at various distances, 
are many trout-haunted lochs and lochans, — including 
North, South, Indian, March, Polehill, Edgecomb, and 
Long Ponds, and Trout Lake. South of Lake George, is 
Butler Pond, and E. of its southern extremity are Sly, 
Ore-bed and Copeland Ponds. 



376 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



LAKE GEORGE DISTANCE TABLE, 

By the route of the Steamers^ 
From Fort William Henry Hotel. 



MILES. 



Trout Pavilion, 




7 


Bolton, 


5 


12 


14 Mile Island, 


2 


14 


100 Islands, 


I 


15 


French Point, 


I 


16 


Hulett's Landing, 


5 


21 


Sabbath Day Point, 


2 


23 


Hague 


. . 6 


29 


Rogers' Rock Hotel, 


. 6 


35 


Baldwin, 


I 


36 



Among the charming drives from Caldwell in various 
directions, the most notable are those to Lake Luzerne, 
11^ m., and to Thurman, 9 m. Tallyho coaches usually 
serve these routes. 

The following is the old route to the heart of the Wilder- 
ness: — 

From Caldwell to Warrensburg (3 m. from the Adiron- 
dack R R ) it is 6 m.; thence to Chestertown, 12 m; Pot- 
tersville, 6 m.; (the route diverging here from the great 
" Northern Highway " and uniting with the Crown Point 
and Carthage road i^ m. W, of Tahawus or the Lower 
Ironworks;) Olmsteadville, 6 m; Minerva, 2 m.; Boreas 
River or "Aiden Lair,"* 8 m ; Newcomb, 12 m ; Long 
Lake Village, 13 m. Total, 65 m. The scenery along the 
route is frequently very attractive. Through winding dales 
clothed with luxuriant foliage, mountains gleam — now ob- 
scured, now revealed. Thus the Adirondack towers are 
in occasional view throughout the entire journey and re- 
place one another in delightful variation till we reach New- 

* In tliis vicinity and near Van De Whacker Mt. , in different directions, are 
25 or 30 lakelets, including- Hewitt's, Hays', Bodey, Bigsby, Willis, Oliver, 
Lida, Bloody Moose, Nate's, Loon, Mink, Thumb, Hot-water, Van DeWhacker, 
rish. Little Fish, Long, Cheney, Stony and the three Beaver Ponds, offering 
fine scenery and sporting. 

In this township (No. 26) alone are 21 lakes and ponds, 18 of which abound 
in trout. It is a wild and little-known district. (See p. 342). 



NEWCOMB. RICH AND HARRIS LAKES. 377 

comb, where the crowning spectacle awaits us, and we are 
introduced to one of the richest feasts of loveliness and 
sublimity found in the whole magnificent group. To the 
N. E. Tahawus again appears in majesty before us, the 
grand central figure in a proud assemblage of Herculean 
forms, Golden and Mclntyre the most conspicuous. 

The forest-encircled little village of Newcomb is located 
not far from the shores of Rich and Harris Lakes and near 
the western branch of the Hudson River. It is encom- 
passed with numerous lakes, ponds, rivers and mountains. 
Travelers may spend many days to advantage here, as the 
scenery is fine, and sporting facilities are excellent. 

Wayside Inn, pleasantly situated midway between Lake 
Harris and Rich Lake, furnishes 50 or 60 guests with good 
entertainment. 

Several private boarding houses also offer home-like 
accommodations. These include "Chase's," (capacity, 15) 
and "Belden's," (capacity 10). The rates are very reason- 
able. 

General supplies, fishing tackle and ammunition, may be 
obtained of Washington Ghase, druggist, job printer and 
editor and proprietor of the neat little paper. The Adiron- 
dack News. A telegraph-office is one of the latest im- 
provements in the place. 

Rich Lake is a beautiful body of water, (2^ x ^) ir- 
regular in outline, picturesquely framed amid the foot-hills 
of the Adirondack Range, and affording far-reaching and 
varied mountain views. The northern shores are clad with 
unbroken woods, and near the southern side (generally 
cleared) rises Mt. Goodenow, whose crown displays a 
curious rocky knob. Jutting into the water, near the foot 
of the lake, is a bold and finely wooded peninsula, which, 
in time of freshets becomes an island. The limestone rock 
forming its base, is singularly honey-combed, and in one 
place, resembles the rear portion of an elephant. Hence 
it is called Elephant Island. 

Glosely adjacent to, and connected with this sheet on the 
E. is Lake Harris (2^ x ^), which also has many ad- 
mirers. The rapids just above the head, and in the outlet 



378 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



of Rich L. are picturesque enough. f From the foot flows 
the W. branch of the Hudson, a Stillwater until it reaches 
Ord's Falls, i m. down the stream. 




THE LOON.* Harris Lake and Goodenow Mt. 



* The Loon {CoJymbus glacialis ; Ind., Me-da-wis-la,) is the most remarkahle 
as well as one of the handsomest of all the hirds that awaken the echoes of 
the soUtary lakes of the Adlrondacks. It Is easily identified hy its weird, 
clarion cry, and hy the marvelous cLulckness with which it dives at the ap- 
proach of danger. Indeed it will dodge the flash of a gun— some assert the 
very huUet. Well may it he called the Great Nokthern Diver. It is ahout 
the size of a goose. "J.s crazy as a loon,^' has passed into a proverh. 

" What sound strikes his ear? 
Far off on the lake, 'mid the darkness and gloom, 
He hears through the forest the cry of the /oon. 

With voice of a fiend comes that sound from the gloom, 
Now laughing, now shrieking, like ghost from the tomb ; 
Now taunting, now crying, now screaming like mad. 
As he rocks on the waves of the lake, free and glad. 
He rouses the wolf from his brush tangled lair. 
And laughs, Ha ! ha ! ha ! in the lightning's red glare. 

At crack of the rifle, down under the wave 

Like a flash he is gone — to a watery grave ? 

No, no ! See, he rises and shakes his black wing, 

And he floats free as air ; on the wave he is king. 

Yes, ^ing- of the solitude, king of the wave; 

Then hurrah for the bird so blithesome and brave." 

— Forest and Stream. 

t Boats pass from one lake to the other (1 m.) with the interruption of three 
short carries. 



NEWCOMB. LAKE DELIA. SANTANONI PRESERVE. 379 

To visit Lake Delia or Newcomb (2^^ x 5^; N. E. of 
the village) by water, we pass down Lake Harris (E.) 21^ 
m.; thence up the " Iron Works Stream," ^ m; thence 
carry ^ m ; thence pass up Newcomb River a short dis- 
tance. The same point is gained via a fine carriage-road 
through a primeval forest; distance about 4 m. This se- 
questered loch is one of the fairest waters of this lake-be- 
spangled and leafy-solitude. It is crescent-shaped, island- 
adorned, and mountain-locked, — Moose, Baldwin, San- 
tanoni, and other peaks rising grandly near the shores.'^ 




ELEPHANT ISLAND, RICH LAKE. 

It receives the waters of Lake Andrews (3 m. E. of N.) 
from which it is about 4 m. N. E. to Adirondack Upper 
Iron Works. (See p. 343). 

Mr. Robert C. Pruyn, of Albany, is the owner of a tract 
of land, 61^ m. long and 2^ m. wide, comprising about 
11,000 acres, and including Lake Delia, Moose Pond and 



* Lake Delia, a source of the Hudson, Is really composed of two bodies of 
water of nearly equal size, linked by a narrow stream. The upper or 
western sheet possesses wonderful beauty, while the other makes slight 
pretension to attractiveness, being a marshy pond locally known as the 
Duck Hole. 



380 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

two Other lakelets. This he holds as a private preserve. 
"Santanoni Lodge," his summer- villa at Lake Delia, is one 
the most charming retreats in the Great Forest. It con- 
sists of a picturesque group of four rustic buildings, con- 
nected by covered verandas, and presenting the appearance 
of a rambling old English manor-house. 

Some 10 m. S. W. of Newcomb are the Chain Lakes, a 
series of seven united links — the largest of which is 2 
m. long. They discharge into Rock River, the outlet of 
Rock Lake, and a branch of the Hudson. The route leads 
as follows: — Road (3 m.) and path (i m ) to Goodenow P. 
(320 a.); down Goodenow R. to the noted "fishing rock," 
4 m. (or path direct from Wayside Inn, 6% ni.); path to 
Otter P. {yi X ^ — fine trouting), ^ m.; thence path to 
Chain Lakes, 1 1^ m. Mt. Joseph, supposed to be an ex- 
tinct volcano, whose summit or crater, is occupied by a 
deep pond, rises i m, W. of the "fishing rock." 

South of Newcomb i m. is Woodruff or Woodworth P., 
and 3 m. S. W. of that, is Zack's Pond. 

The following is the water-route from Newcomb to Long 
Lake, passing through excellent hunting and fishing 
grounds: — Belden Pond (near the "Wayside")^ m.; por- 
tage, 14 r.;* Rich L , 2^ m.; up Fishing Brook W. i m.; 
(rare trouting here,) up Catlin Lake Stream, N. W\ i m. 
(interrupted by three portages whose aggregate does not 
exceed 40 r.); Lily Pad P., ^ m. N.W.; portage, 4 r.; Long 
P., (Narrow Lake) i m.; portage, 2 r. ; Catlin L., 3 m.; 
portage N. i m.; Round Pond (i x ^), ^ m.; portage, N. 
W. ij4m. to Long Lake. Total distance, about 13 m. 

The last carry may be shortened somewhat by passing up 
Spring Brook as far as the boat will float. This stream is the 
outlet of Hendrick Spring, which is a source of the Hudson, 
and is only j4 m. E. of Long Lake. It was so named in 
honor of the great navigator, Hendrick Hudson. It is 
about 5 ft. in diameter, prettily fringed with drooping ferns, 
tangled vines, and luxuriant foliage — a fit retreat for the 
fairies. 

* Lake Harris and Eicli L. are laoth skirted by tlie " Old Cartilage Road " to 
Long Lake. 




HENDRICK SPRING. 




CATLIN LAKE. 



NEWCOMB. LAKE CATLIN. ROUND POND. 381 

Lake Catlin* is a lovely basin with silver-sanded beaches 
and forest-grown shores, lying in wild seclusion deep in 
the valley between Mt. Everett on the W. and the peaks of 
Moose and Baldwin on the E. The clear-cut outlines of 
Seward and Santanoni, almost hidden among a host of 
attendants, bar the more distant north-eastern horizon. 
N. E. of Catlin L., >^ m , is Deer P.; and i m. S. E. of 
that is Wolf Pond. 

West of the lower end of Catlin L,^ m., is another 
Belden Pond. 

Pickwacket P. lies S. W. of Catlin L , i m. N. of the 
main road, and 6 m. E. of Long Lake Village. All these 
lakes and ponds pay tribute to the Hudson River. 

The original name of Round P. was Fountain Lake. 
This title should be restored, as it is the true fountain- 
head of the direct or main (western) branch of our noble 
Hudson (Ind., Cha-He mac, "The Stately Swan "). Lying 
only I ^ m. from Long Lake, an attempt was made about 
the year 1854, by Prof. G. W. Benedict, representing the 
State Geological Survey, to unite these waters by a canal, 
for lumbering purposes ; but the enterprise was abandoned. 
Portions of the ditch are still visible. Had this project 
materialized, the waters of Raquette, Forked and Long 
Lakes would have been diverted from their usual course 
and found their way to the Atlantic via the Hudson within 
about 300 m., instead of seeking the same ocean through 
the St. Lawrence at a distance of 1,000 m. — (Lossing). 

Fountain L. is greately admired for its wild and pictur- 
esque beauty, affording views almost equal in grandeur to 
those commanded by Catlin Lake. 

From Fountain L. it is 2^ m N. to Cold River; and 3 
or 4 m. E. to Moose P. Latham and Trout Ponds lie 
several miles N. of Cold River. 

Stages arrive at Newcomb from " Root's " (Schroon 
River) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; from Minerva, 
on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; from Long Lake, on 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday. 

*A.M. Strauss, a millionaire of New York, has recently purchased a tract of 
land, which includes Catlin L., and will erect an elegant summer-residence 
on its shores. 



382 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Stages leave for ''Root's," on Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday, (connecting there with daily stage to Port Henry; 
fare, $1.50); for Minerva, on Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday, (connecting there with daily stage to North Creek, 
terminus of Adirondack R. R., 8 m.; fare, $1.00); for 
Long Lake, on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Fare 
to each place, $1.50 or $[.75. For description of Long Lake, 
see *'The Raquette Waters." 



Thirtieth: — Saratoga Springs. The word Saratoga is 
of Indian origin and has several variations and significa- 
tions: Sar-agh-to ga, "place of salt springs "; Chic-o-pee, 
"a large spring"; Sa-ra-ta-ke, "a place where the track of 
the heel may be seen"; and O sah-rah ka, "the side hills.'' 
In 1742 the French called it Sarasta. 

The most celebrated mineral waters on the American 
continent are those of Saratoga. The most famous of 
these, from which the entire series of 25 or 30 springs have 
received their high reputation, is 

THE CONGRESS 

This "Fountain of Health" was discovered in 1792 by 
John Taylor Oilman, an ex-member of Congress, who with 
a party of gentlemen was hunting in this section. In honor 
of the discoverer, it was immediately christened "Congress 
Spring." 

In 1823 Dr. John Clark, of New York, a gentleman of 
very considerable scientific knowledge, having seen and 
examined the water and being convinced of its great medi- 
cal virtues, purchased the spring and commenced bottling 
it for exportation and sale. In July, 1865, the property — 
including the Columbian Spring — passed into the hands 
of an incorporated company, which at the same time, pur- 
chased the Empire Spring, and assumed the management 
of the business, under the name of the "Congress and 
Empire Spring Company." This company continues the 
bottling, packing and shipping of the waters, which are 
sent not only to all portions of the United States and the 
British Provinces, but in considerable quantities also to 
Mexico, South America, the West Indies, Europe and 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 383 

China. The sale in foreign countries is constantly increas- 
ing. It would be difficult indeed to find a town of any 
magnitude in the United States where these waters are not 
kept for sale ; and scarcely a vessel leaves our shores for 
any distant port that does not include them among its 
stores of freight'. 

The lovely grounds of the Congress are greatly admired 
by all visitors to the Springs. 

To the other springs most noted for the excellence of 
their medicinal qualities we can only allude in a general 
way» 

Columbian Spring is only a few rods S. W. of the Con- 
gress, in the same beautiful park. 

Washington Spring is on the premises of the Claren- 
don Hotel. 

Crystal Spring is near the Columbian Hotel on South 
Broadway. 

Hathorn Spring, accidently discovered in 1869, and 
named after the owner, Hon. Henry H. Hathorn, is located 
on Spring St., and close to Congress Hall. 

Pavilion Spring is in Pavilion Park, between Lake 
Avenue and Caroline St. 

United States Spring, only 10 feet from the Pavilion, 
furbishes water differing considerably in its quality from 
the others. 

High Rock is the marvel among all these gushing min- 
eral fountains. Says Dr. Valentine Seaman in his descrip- 
tion of this interesting curiosity: — "The more we reflect 
upon it the more we must be convinced of the important 
place this dome-shaped rock ought to hold among the won- 
derful works of nature. Had it stood on the borders of 
the Logo d'Agnaus, the noted Grotto del Cani, (which 
since the peculiar properties of carbonic acid gas have been 
known, burdens almost every book treating upon the sub- 
ject), would never have been heard of beyond the environs 
of Naples, while this fountain, in its place, would have 
been deservedly celebrated in story and spread upon can- 
vas to the admiration of the world as one of the greatest of 



384 THE ADIRONDACKS. 



curiosities." Hither the Iroquois were wont to come for 
the cure of various maladies ; though the curative virtues 
of the waters were long carefully concealed from the 
"pale face." It is said that Sir Wm Johnson was the 
first white man who visited Saratoga Springs. Being fre- 
quently attacked by severe illnesss resulting from the 
serious wound he received at the battle of Lake George, 
he was induced, — after a solemn council of the Mohawks, 
who styled him War-ra-ghi-ya-ghy, " beloved brother," — to 
visit High Rock Spring; and to this place he was con- 
veyed on a litter through the pathless woods by his faithful 
allies. Tarrying here in a rude bark lodge for less than 
a week, as some claim, and partaking of these healing 
waters, he improved so rapidly that he was able to perform 
part of the homeward journey to Johnstown on foot. This 
was in 1767 and but a short time after the discovery of 
this spring. (See p. 369). 

Seltzer Spring is about 10 rods from the High Rock; 
and although so near the latter, its water is entirely different. 

Star Spring, formerly called the Iodine, is on Spring 
Avenue near the end of Circular St. 

Empire Spring is a few rods beyond the Star, on Spring 
Ave., at head of Circular St. 

Red Spring is also on Spring Ave., and only a few rods 
above the Empire. 

The "A" Spring is several rods from Red Spring. 

Excelsior Spring, i mile E. of the village, is located in 
a lovely valley embosomed by the trees of "Excelsior Park"; 
and is reached via Spring Ave. Loughberry Lake and the 
Water- works lie in this vicinity. 

Geyser Spouting Spring, a remarkable object, is i % 
miles below the depot, on the Ballston road, and not far 
from the railroad. 

Glacier Spouting Spring (sometimes called "Vichy") 
lies in the midst of a beautiful park in a little valley ^ mile 
from the Geyser and i mile S. of the village. 

Ellis Spring is between the Geyser and the Glacier. 

Besides those already named, the Hamilton, Triton, Flat 
Rock, Putnam, Eureka, Magnetic, Iron, Diamond and 



1 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. UNITED STATES HOTEL. 3^5 

White Sulphur Springs are worthy of high commendation 
as curative agents. 

Saratoga Springs is located on the . Del aware & Hud- 
son R; R..32 miles from Troy and 22 miles from' Schenec- 
tady.* Although it is laid out with, slight pretension to 
plan or regularity, it is a handsome village, with many 
pleasant streets, adorned with elegant buildings, and fre- 
quently shaded by the far-spreading branches of the grace- 
ful elm. Broadway, its principal avenue, is broad, long 
and beautiful; and in the height; of the season is gay with 
busy pedestrians and sumptuous equipages. As a fashion- 
able watering-place and summer resort, Saratoga has no 
peer in this country, no superior on the face of the globe. 

There is probably no place in the world where the busi- 
ness of taking care of the muhitude is so reduced to a 
science as at Saratoga Springs. From small beginnings, 
the village has risen to the dimensions of a city. Its growth 
has been coeval with that of the country; and no oil-well 
can fi )w, or gold or silver mine be opened, or prosperous 
ga^e waft commerce to our shores, but its benefits are felt 
at this great watering-place. With the superlative attrac- 
tions of this world-famous resort nearly every one in civil- 
ized communities is conversant. The wealth and the 
fashion of the nation concentrate here. To meet its de- 
mands there liave been evolved a class of magnificent hotels 
of the first magnitude, and upon their superior character 
tourists from all countries have already passed their favor- 
able verdicts. 

In the front rank of thes& stands the United States 
Hotel. It occupies the location once covered by the old 
United States, for a long time a favorite resort for the 
fashionable world.. In June, 1865, this hotel was accident- 
ally destroyed by fire. For seven years the site remained 
unoccupied, until, in November, 1872, ground was broken 

* Ind , Con-nuQli-lia-rip, " a great multitude collected together," and STca- 
na-ta-ti, "on the other side of the pines." It was for many years the head- 
quarters of the powerful Mohawk tribe, long hefore the " Confederacy of the 
Six Nations " was formed. And there is good evidence that hetween the 
Mohawks and the Onondagas, there was for ages a contest for the suprem- 
acy, as long and as bloody as that between the rival houses of York and 
Lancaster in the " War of the Koses."— (Spafford.) 

33 , 



386 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

for a new hotel, which, it was determined, should outrival 
in accommodation, elegance and splendor all the hotels 
that had been, or then were, existing in the world. 

The structure was two years in building, and the expense 
was over a million of dollars. All that the skill of archi- 
tects and the experience of a century could furnish or 
suggest were concentrated here; and the result is shown 
in an edifice of royal extent and princely magnificence. 
No place but Saratoga could produce a hotel so fitting and 
appropriate in its. design and appointments. It covers and 
encloses about seven acres of ground. The court is em- 
bellished with lawn, trees, walks, and fountain. On the 
south side is the cottage-wing, four stories in height, and 
about five hundred feet in length, devoted to suites, or 
flats, each having a parlor, piazza, and from one to seven 
bedrooms attached, with private table when desired. Free- 
dom and seclusion are enjoyed here, as well as the gay life 
of the hotel. On Broadway is the main front, where are 
the public parlors, furnished in the highest style of elegance 
and luxury. The spacious offices are in the north wing, 
which extends on Division Street from Broadway to the 
railroad. Here are located the reading-room, business- 
offices, reception-rooms, banquet-hall, private dining-rooms, 
and, finally, the grand ball-room, one hundred and twelve 
feet long by fifty-three feet wide, with ceiling twenty-six 
feet high. There are nine hundred and sixteen sleeping 
apartments. To them access is obtained by ten stairways 
and two elevators. To prevent serious loss by fire, the 
structure is divided into five sections by brick walls, and 
the openings are protected by heavy iron doors. Fire 
hydrants are in each section, with hose attached. The 
piazzas exceed half a mile in length, and encircle the inner 
court. This, when illuminated at night by gas, lanterns, 
and calcium lights, and enlivened with the superb music of 
the band, forms a scene of enchantment that almost 
realizes the tales of the " Thousand and One Nights."— 
[Col. B. C. Butler.] 

The Grand Union, a vast establishment, said to be the 
largest hotel in the world, was constructed and equipped 
with lavish cost and great completeness. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. SARATOGA LAKE. 387 

Congress Hall, the Clarendon and the Windsor belong 
to the highest class and offer superior attractions. 

The Adelphi, Continental, Temple Grove, Drs. Strong's, 
Washburne, Aldine, Huestis, Mansion, Everett, Commercial 
and the Worden, generally answer every requirement and 
are largely patronized. 

WALKS, DRIVES AND PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The most charming walk is that through Congress Spring 
Park, which has been wonderfully improved within a few 
years. This ramble may be continued, with pleasure, to 
the Indian encampment. 

Willow Walk, extending from the Pavilion through the 
valley of the springs to the Empire; and the delightful 
path through Excelsior Park to Excelsior Spring, offer 
tempting opportunities to the pedestrian. 

Of the drives, that to Glen Mitchell is one of the most 
agreeable; the one to the Lake the most fashionable. This 
magnificent Boulevard is 4 miles in extent, 100 feet wide, 
divided in the centre and margined with rows of shade 
trees, forming two leaf-embowered avenues. Carriages go 
down on one side and return on the other. Electric cars 
also swiftly convey passengers to the place. By diverging 
a little from this route. Lake Lovely or Lonely may be 
visited. 

Saratoga Lake (Ind., Cap i a- qui ^ also Ka-ya-de-ro gd)^ 

yi X i^) is a beautiful sheet of water, lending its charms 
to the many attractions of the region bordering on the 
Adirondacks. The bold headland called Snake Hill, pic- 
turesquely, rises 200 ft. near its southern extremity. A 
small steam-yacht plies on its waters, and boating and sail- 
ing are here enjoyed to the fullest extent. 

Situated on a gentle elevation on the W. shore is Moon's 
Lake House, long noted for the original Saratoga fried 
potatoes and extraordinary dinners. 

"There is," says Willis, "an Indian superstition attached 
to this lake, that probably had its source in its remarkable 
loneliness and tranquillity. The Mohawks believed that its 
stillness was sacred to the Great Spirit, and that if a human 
voice uttered a sound upon its waters the canoe of the 



3oo THE ADIRONDACKS. 

offender would instantly sink. A story is told of an 
English woman, in the early days of the first settlers, who 
had occasion to cross the lake with a party of Indians, who, 
before embarking, warned her most impressively of the 
spell. What then occurred the author, Wm. L. Stone, 
some years since, related to the poet, John G. Saxe, and 
suggested that he should work it up as he alone could. 
The result was the little gem, here reproduced : 

A lady stands beside the silvery lake; 

"AVhat," said the Mohawk, " wouldst thou have me do?'' 
' 'Across the water, sir, be pleased to take 

Me and my children in thy bark canoe." 

*'Ah!'' said the Chief, " thou knowest not, I think, 

The legend of the lake: hast ever heard 
That in its wave the stoutest boat will sink 

If any passenger should speak a word ?" 

" Full well we know the Indian's strange belief," 

The lady answered, with a civil smile; 
" But take us o'er the water, mighty Chief; 

In rigid silence we will sit the while." 

Thus they embarked; but ere the little boat 

Was half across the lake, the woman gave 
Her tongue its wonted play ! But still they float 

And pass in safety o'er the utmost wave. 

Safe on the shore, the warrior looked amazed, 

Despite the stoic calmness of his race; 
No word he spoke, but long the Indian gazed 

In moody silence in the woman's face, 

" What think you now?" the lady gayly said ; 

" Safely to land your frail canoe is brought ! 
No harm, you see, has touched a single head ; 

So superstition ever comes to naught !" 

Smiling, the Mohawk said, "Our safety shows 

That God is merciful to old and young ; 
Thanks unto the Great Spirit — well he knows 

The pale-faced woman cannot hold her tongue !" 

Returning from the lake, the drive may be so varied as 
to take in Chapman's and Wagman's Hills, and other in- 
teresting points. 

Bemis Heights, (15 m.) the scene of the great and im- 
portant battles that resulted in the surrender of Burgoyne 



MT. MCGREGOR. GEN. GRANT. 389 

and virtually gave us a free and independent country, may 
be visited in one day. These events will render the name 
of Saratoga memorable forever. 

From Saratoga Springs delightful excursions are made 
to Mt. McGregor, Lakes George, Champlain, Luzerne and 
Schroon, and to the Adirondacks. 

Mt. McGregor, io m. distant, is reached by a fine car- 
riage-road and also via the little railway by that name, 
which goes zigzagging through leafy beauty up to the sum- 
mit of this mountain, offering in the ascent, a series of the 
most charming views imaginable. On the very crown is 
located a grand hotel, the Balmoral, where many summer 
boarders find delightful escape from the heated cities. 
From the observatory spreads out to the eye a remarkable 
panorama ; and the exquisite pictures there enjoyed are 
not likely to be forgotten by the spectator. The far-reach- 
ing valley of the Hudson with its varied charms, the Green 
Mts., the White Mts., the Catskills and the Adirondacks lie 
before us in bewitching display. 

Three lovely lakelets, Artist, Princess and Bonito, silver 
the green forest but a few rods away, and furnish fine fish- 
ing and boating to visitors.* Pleasant walks and drives 
wind through the woods in every direction, as this mountain- 
plateau, elevated 1,200 ft. above sea-level, embraces a pri- 
vate preserve of 1,000 acres. 

The Balmoral is shadtd by noble trees, and is one of 
the most complete hotels in the country. Every modern 
improvement will here be found, comprising, steam-heat 
and open grates, pure hot and cold water, electric bells, 
gas and electric lights, table of unsurpassed excellence, 
perfect sanitary system, spacious verandas, billiard- room, 
bowling-alley and tennis-court, children's amusement-room, 
superb orchestra, etc. Free passes to and from Saratoga 
via the railroad to guests of the house. (P. O., Mt. Mc- 
Gregor, N. Y.) 

This romantic spot has been immortalized, through 'its 
associations with the final sickness and death of Gen. 

* Bonita Lake is 1 or \)4 m. from the hotel ; Artist and Princess Lakes, a 
few rods distant. Moreau Pond lies N. E. . 



39© THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Grant. Here the nation's hero made his first and last 
surrender, passed over the picket lines and was ushered 
into the presence of the Great Commander.* 

Proceeding by Delaware & Hudson R. R. to Fort 
Edward (17 m.,) and thence by D. & H. Branch R. R. via 
Glens Falls, (5 m.) we reach Caldwell (Fort Wm. Henry 
Hotel,) (10 m.), at the head of Lake George. (See p. 370). 
The same point is also gained by the Adirondack R. R. via 
Thurman, at the junction of Schroon and Hudson Rivers 
(36 m.), thence by livery through charming scenery to 
Lake George (9 m.). The exctllent road follows Schroon 
River for nearly 3 m., passing through a romantic gorge in 
the mountains and furnishing the tourist one of the most 
enjoyable carriage rides in the State. This excursion may 
be pleasantly varied by making a round trip of these two 
routes. 

By D. & H. R. R , we proceed to Whitehall, (41 m.,)t 
where we take the Canada & New York R. R. (Branch of 
D. & H. R. R ), to Fort Ticonderoga (24 m.,) whence we 
continue the journey by the same Jinely equipped line^ or 
embark there on the Lake Champlain Steamers for 
Plattsburg, &c , and intermediate points. Or we reach the 
same place (Ticonderoga) by steamer Horicon or Ticon- 
deroga through the enchanting panorama presented by the 
scenery of Lake George, (page 372,) (36 m.) and thence by 
R. R , to the old Fort (4^ m ). 

At Hadley, on the Adirondack R. R., (22 m.) we leave 
the cars for Lake Luzerne, ^ m. distant, just across the 
Hudson. Here (at Hadley) the Hudson plunges impetu- 
ously through a narrow, winding gorge bounded by high 
and rocky cliffs (called Rockwell's or Jessup's Little Falls) 
as if eager to unite with the equally boisterous waters of 
the Sacandaga, (Ind., Ti-se-ran do, or Tio-sa-ronda/'mtet- 
ing of the waters,") which it receives just below. The 
bridge spanning the chasm at the falls, is 50 ft. above the 

* THe Drexel cottage wHere Gen. Grant passed His Hnal days is now 
owned loy the G. A. R,, and is in constant charge of one of its oflicers. Visit- 
ors wiU receive courteous attention and be shown the various relics on 
exhihltion. 

tWhitehall was first named '-Skene.s^orough:' from Maj. Philip Skene, an 
English offlcer and its founder. The Indians called it Kah-clio-quaJi-na , "the 
place where they dip fish." 



.AKE LUZERNE. WAYSIDE INN. 



391 



rushing torrent, and the scene is very romantic and im- 
pressive. 

Luzerne, like its namesake in Switzerland, is a charming 
village, encircled by lofty hills and mountains, generally 
clothed with dark green forests. Most conspicuous among 
these peaks is "The Potash" (Ind., Se-non-ge-wah^ "the 
Great Upturned Pot"), a bold and rocky acclivity of hem- 
ispheric shape, from whose summit a wonderful view is 
enjoyed. Lying at its base is Hall's Pond. The environs 
of Luzerne are beautifully wooded, the trees assuming an 
elegance of growth seldom seen ; and the immediate scen- 
ery is very inviting. High above the village lies Lake 




LAKE LUZERNE. 

Luzerne (i x i/^), a gem of picturesque beauty, adorned 
with a single island. Its shores are extensively margined 
with evergreens, and the well-kept paths afford delectable 
rides and rambles through sylvan shades, while the smooth 
waters and the water-lilies of the lake are the delight of 
boating parties. 

East and N. E. are five or' six little ponds, most of them 
nameless, that merit a visit. 

About 6 m. distant, the road leading to Lake George, 
crosses an eminence styled "the Divide." From its sum- 
mit a crystal brook descends with some abruptness and 
flows S., 2 m. to Ferguson's P. (75 a); thence S. to Hall's 
P. (50 a); thence W. to Porteous P., or Fourth L. (200 a); 
thence S., ^ m. to Third L.; thence S., ^ m. to Second L.; 



392 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

thence to Lake Luzerne.* This cluster lies near the base 
of the Potash. A beaver-dam on "the Divide," the remains 
of which can still be seen, formerly turned this mountain- 
stream N. into Skaneateles or Black Lake, (150 acres). 

South W. of Luzerne, several miles, are Jenny, Hunt and 
Efner Lakes, and Black Pond. 

History has something to say about Lake Luzerne. The 
hunting-lodges of the warlike Iroquois anciently lined its 
banks, as this was their favorite gathering place. Vast 
numbers of savage implements, arrow-heads, stone ham- 
mers etc., found in the neighborhood sufficiently prove 
their occupancy of this section. Here "King Hendrick," 
the great war- chief of the Mohawks, with his band of dusky 
braves, encamped Vhen passing from Johnson Hall to Lake 
George, where he yielded up his heroic life on the ill-fated 
field of Bloody Pond. (See p. 369). Here Sir John John- 
son with his tory allies paused on their way from Canada to 
his late father's home, to recover the treasure buried there, 
and by this route he returned. (See pp. 158, 165). 

One-third of a mile from the village, on a pleasant 
plateau bordering the lake, stands the noted Wayside, a 
select and fashionable family-hotel, and the constant resort 
of the most desirable society. The large chateau-like 
building, is architecturally beautiful, being of the pictur- 
esque Swiss design. Its reputation is so well-established 
it is hardly necessary to enumerate its many attractions. 
Enough to say that it is a model of neatness, convenience 
and luxury, and possesses in profusion, the various modern 
appointments. The richly ornamented grounds of 20 acres 
are dotted with a dozen elegant cottages, and these with 
the main structure, offer luxurious accommodations to 200 
people. When the season is at its height, intending guests 
should apply for rooms several weeks in advance, as owing 
to the popularity of the place, it is generally impossible to 
secure them otherwise. 

The outlet of Lake Luzerne goes cascading down a 
ledge 35 ft. high, provides several manufactories located 
here with ample water-power, and passes on to the Hudson. 

*0ur tlianks are due to Hugh demons, Esq., of Luzerne, for courtesies 
extended t»y lilm. 



EXCURSIONS FROM LAKE LUZERNE. 393 

Among the many pleasurable drives in the vicinity, the fol- 
lowing are specially recommended : — Around the lake ; to 
Lake George (iij^ m), (see p. 370); along the ever inter- 
esting Hudson, and up the valley of the Sacandaga, all of 
which afford a succession of the most pleasing pictures. 
Upon the whole, Luzerne may well be regarded as an ideal 
summer resting-place. 

Pleasant drives from Luzerne ('The Wayside,"). 

MILES. 

Saratoga Springs, . . . . 20^ 

Lake George, . . . . . 1114; 

Bloody Pond, . . . . . 9^ or 10 

Skaneateles Lake,* . . . . . 6^ 

Glens Falls, 

Hadley Falls (ninety feet fall), on Hudson 

The Potash, 

Around the Lake, 

Around the Square, 

Mt. McGregor, . . . 

Ferguson's Chalybeate Spring, 

Conklingville (up Sacandaga Valley), 

Around Antonio's Mountain, 

Phelps' Bay (mouth of Sacandaga R.), 

Jessup's or Rockwell's Little Falls, 

A little steam-yacht makes regular trips semi-daily be- 
tween Luzerne (Hadley) and Jessup's Landing (6 m ). 

At Riverside, (Folsom's Landing,) on the Adirondack R. 
R.(5o m.), Leavitt's superior four- horse Concord coaches are 
in waiting to convey us over a good road through a pictur- 
esque section (passing Loon Lake, West, East, Ben Smith's 
and Lillian Ponds; Bird Pond lying N.) to Pottersville, (6 m.) 
near the foot of Schroon Lake. Thence we pass, in the 
steamer Gypsy or Effingham, through the entire length of 
this lovely sheet to Schroon Lake Village, (9 m., p. 360) 
A branch railroad from Riverside to Schroon L. is in con- 
templation. 

* It seems strange that two toodies of water In this State— one in Warren, 
and the other in Onondaga Co.,— should have received the same heautiful 
Indian name of Skaneateles, which signifies "very long lake," or "The 
Beautiful Squaw." 



13 
River, 7 

5 
• 3 

7 
. 12 

4 
. 6 

5 

I 

1/ 



394 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The little village of Pottersville has picturesque environ- 
ing. The hotel here is famed for the excellence of its 
table. Parties en route to or from Schroon Lake usually 
dine at this pleasant resting-place. 

There is a natural bridge within two miles of this point, 
which is richly worth the visiting A small and rapid 
stream, tributary to Schroon River, after falling over a 
rocky precipice into a large natural basin, enters a hill, the 
base of which is 60 or 70 yds. in diameter. Through this, 
it forces a passage in two branches, forming a most curious 
and beautiful arch, 40 ft. high and twice as broad, and as 
white as snow. It emerges in a single stream from under a 
precipice 54 ft. high and 247 ft. from its entrance. The 
fury of the water and the roughness of the bottom, added 
to the terrific noise within, have hitherto prevented any 
person from passing through the chasm. — {^Fr. Gaz). 

Stages are also taken at Riverside daily for Chestertown 
(5 m.) — a quiet but delightful summer resort, with sur- 
roundings of a charming character, and good fishing and a 
dozen neighboring lakes and many streams. 

Chester Hotel has long catered to the wants of the 
traveling public. It is a large structure, and provides for 
150 guests. The verandas are well shaded by a handsome 
maple-grove. The rooms are cheerful, and neatly fur- 
nished. The table is uniformly excellent. An abundance 
of ice-cold water is conducted into the house from a spring 
bubbling up on the summit of the famous Panther Mt., 
rising near the building. The pleasure-grounds offer op- 
portunities for the enjoyment of tennis, croquet and other 
games. The house has a good livery and telegraphic com- 
munication. Rates for board, moderate. 

From here, Loon Lake (i^ x ^s), 2>^ m. N. W.; Schroon 
Lake, 5 m. N.; Brant Lake, 4}^ m. N. E.; Lake Fathom- 
less, I m. S. and Friends Lake (2 x i^), 3 m. S. W., are 
reached by good roads. 

North east of Chestertown, 2 m., and S. of Schroon Lake, 
5 m. is "Sunnyside," an attractive hotel on Schroon River, 
promising to become a popular resort. Boating, fishing 
and scenery are fine ; P. O. is Chestertown, N. Y. 



,itrii ■ -ff^ 




<^**^-^^4 






.f 







CHESTERTOWN. AND BRANT LAKE. 



CHESTERTOWN. FRIENDS LAKE. BRANT LAKE. 395 

Friends Lake, recently renamed Atateka, is rich in quiet 
beauty and picturesque charms. It is the chosen site of a 
number of beautiful summer-homes. 

The Lake House, (capacity 50,) is a pleasant retreat, 
affording spacious and well equipped rooms, a table gen- 
erously supplied with the products of the hotel-farm, pure 
spring-water, and perfect drainage. Parties will be met, 
on notification, at Riverside, (5 m. distant) and conveyed 
to the house free of charge. Good livery in connection. 
(P. O , Chestertown, N. Y.) 

Loon Lake is i>^ m. N. of Lake Atateka; Valentine 
Pond, 5 m. N. E ; Brant Lake, 6 m. N. E ; and Beaver 
Pond, 7 m. Tripp Pond lies S. South W. of Atateka is a 
group of ponds styled, "Mill Creek," 'Indian," "Wolf," 
"Round," "Mud," "Bear," "Fish," "Cat," "Lizard" and 
"Second." 

The singular Crane Mt., (Ind., Mo-os-pot-ten-wa-cho, 
"Thunder's Nest,") is 10 or 15 m. S. W. of Atateka. A 
small pond near its summit is much frequented by cranes ; 
hence its name. Seen from Warrensburg, 1 1 m. distant, 
the mountain presents a striking resemblance to the profile 
of a human face. — ^Fr. Gaz.) 

Brant Lake has many attractions which want of space 
prevents our describing. We believe that there is a good 
hotel at the foot of the lake, called "The Libow." 

A cluster of waters lying S. E., includes Long, Lily, Duck, 
Round and Island Ponds. 

South of the lake lie Round, Burnt and Long Ponds. 
(See pp. 364, 366). 

isi^THE Adirondack Railroad whose southern terminus 
is Saratoga Springs, and whose ultimate destination is 
said to be some point on the St. Lawrence, is completed as 
far as North Creek. [58 m] It passes through the 
romantic and picturesque valley of the Upper Hudson, 
and from this route many and varied are the scenes of in- 
terest and grandeur presented. It is far the shortest, 
easiest and most desirable avenue to some of the most im- 
portant of the Adirondack lakes. Express trains leave 
Saratoga Springs on arrival of morning and midday trains 



396 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

from the south. By a new arrangement tourists can leave 
New York via N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. at 6:30 p. m. in sleep- 
ing car, reaching North Creek, without change, early next 
morning, arriving at Blue Mountain Lake in season for din- 
ner^ and at Raquette Lake, in the very heart of the Wilder- 
ness, for early tea. Leaving Saratoga on morning mail 
train, passengers arrive at Blue Mountain Lake same even- 
ing. Fare to North Creek, 12.25 * 

From North Creek, stages run daily to Minerva (8 m.; 
fare $r.oo), and from there every Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday morning to Newcomb (20 m.) and Long Lake 
{;^l m.) Private conveyances can be procured in Minerva 
at any time for the above named points and other Wilder- 
ness resorts. (See pp. 376, 381). 

Perhaps 3 or 4 m, N. of Minerva, a road branches from 
the regular route and leads to the territory owned by the 
Adirondack Preserve Association, about 8 m. N. W. This 
tract comprises 4,800 acres, and is watered by Loon, Mink, 
Frank, (famous for large speckled trout) and Huntley 
Lakes. South E., S. and S. W., are Split Rock and Bad 
Luck Ponds, and Pine Lake. 

Elegant 4 and 6 horse Concord coaches, belonging to the 
"Adirondack Stage Co.," leave North Creek daily on 
arrival of morning and noon trains, for Blue Mt. Lake, 
reaching that point at midday and the same evening. This 
highway passes through a thinly populated country and is 
generally as admirable as could be desired, being firm, 
smooth and frequently overarched with shade ; and along 
its course, many and superb are the mountain pictures en- 
joyed. The view is especially fine from "Ordvvays." (In- 
dian Lake P. O.) 

It should be noted however, that devastating fires have 
left their mark upon this route, and these burnt barrens 
always present a dreary appearance to the traveler. 

The following are the routes from North Creek to 
Thirteenth Pond, Indian Lake, Chain Lakes, Cedar River 
Falls, Blue Mt. Lake, Eagle Lake and Raquette Lake. 

*Great efforts are being made to extend this line to Upper Iron Works and 
Long Lake. TMs railway is now owned Iby ttie D. & H. E. K. Co. 




ENTERING ADIRONDACKS. BUCKBOARD. WINDSOR COACH. 



NORTH RIVER HOTEL. INDIAN LAKE. 397 

To North River ("14th Station"), 41^ m.; Indian River, 
(Indian River Hotel) 11^ m.; Indian Lake, P. O., (Ord- 
way House) i m ; Cedar River, (Cedar River House) 2 m.; 
Blue Mt. Lake, (Holland's Hotel), io>^ m.; Blue Mt. 
Lake, (Prospect House), % m.; total, 30 m. Stage fare 
from North Creek, $3.00. 

At North River Hotel the stage-passengers dine, and are 
always regaled with one of those "Adirondack dinners," 
whose superlative excellence has rendered this place justly 
famous. The hotel is large and inviting, with double piaz- 
zas, long and broad. Many visitors attracted by its merits 
and the picturesqueness of the surroundings, pass their 
summer vacations here. The noble Hudson, at this point 
a shallow but turbulent stream, sweeps by within a few rods 
of the house. 

The ''remarkable peak," Gore Mt., with its uncertain 
summit and savage cliffs, rises in the vicinity. Also Mt. 
Maxham. 

From North River to Thirteenth Pond (3 x ^) it is 4 m. 
S. W. by good road. At the N. end of this sheet and near 
the outlet is located Bennett's "Sportsman's Retreat," or 
" Maple Cottage," (P. O., North River). From Thirteenth 
Pond, a carry leads to Brook P., 25^ m. N.; one to Hour 
P., 2 m. W.; one to Botheration P., 2 m. S. E.; and another 
to Puffer P., 4 m. S. W., whence it is 3 m. S. W. to Round 
P., from which Johnny Mack, Crotchet P. and Indian 
Lake, W. and N., are visited. 

South of Thirteenth Pond (reached by sled road) are the 
two Siamele Ponds; and S. E. of Thirteenth are Second 
and Eleventh Ponds, all several miles distant. The 
Thirteenth Pond district is regarded as good sporting- 
ground. 

From the hamlet of Indian Lake to Indian Lake proper 
it is 2 m. S. W., the road branching from the main route, 
1. at Indian Lake Post Office (Ordway's Hotel and store). 
It is reached also with boats up the river from Indian Lake 
House; distance, 3 m. 

Indian Lake (4 x i, but with its overflow 10 or 12 m. 
long) was a beautiful sheet before its marginal scenery was 



398 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

impaired through the workings of the dam at the outlet. 
This stream is Indian River (Ind., Oi-si-kwa-ke, "where 
the ash tree grows with large knobs for making clubs,") a 
tributary of the Hudson. 

The lake is said by Hoffman to have been thus named from its having 
been a sacred place of resort to the Iroquois; but it doubtless originated 
in the fact, that Sabele, "the Indian of a Century," had near its shores, 
for many years, his rude and lonely home. This eccentric old Penobscot, 
when only 12 years old, was in the battle of Quebec, when Wolf and 
Montcalm fell, and the city was taken by the English (1759). In 1848 
he was still occupying his wigwam at Indian L., and although loi years 
old, was a straight and powerful man. Even then he would take his 
canoe, gun and traps, and go off alone six weeks at a time on hunting 
expeditions. Date of his death, unknown. — (Summer Gleanings). (See 
p. 345) 

The "Locke House " (P. O., Indian Lake), is located in 
the midst of good sporting grounds, on the W. side and 
near the foot of the lake. It is a new resort, and every- 
thing connected with it is fresh and attractive, and it offers 
very desirable accommodations. The stage fare from North 
Creek to Indian Lake Post Office is $1.50 or $1.75, whence 
private conveyance is taken for " Locke's." 

The following are the routes and approximate distances 
from the "Locke House" to the various waters adjacent: — 

To Squaw Brook, a noted trout stream, it is % m. 

To Crochet P. {% x 3^), boating 2 m., and good trail 3 
m S. 

To Long P. (i X J/^), boating 3 m., and trail 3 m. S. 
Good for deer and large speckled trout. 

One m. W. of Long P. is Rock P. (3^ x i^) — offering fine 
"deering" and trouting. It is also reached from Indian Lake 
by rowing up its inlet, Jessup River, i m. and carrying 
thence over a lumber-road i m. 

One m. N. of Rock P. is Johnny Mack P. (3 m. boating 
and 2 m. trail from Locke House.) 

South of Rock P. 2 m. by trail is Round or Marvina P. 
(i X i); also reached by trail from the head of Indian L. 
(5 m). It furnishes large speckled trout. 

East of Johnny Mack P. i m. is another Round P. From 
here it is 3 m. N. E. to Puffer P., which is 4 m. S. W, 
of 13th Pond. (See p. 397). 



INDIAN LAKE SECTION. LEWEY LAKE. 



399 



Ox Bow P. (3^ X i^) lies near the head of Indian L , and 
affords good " deering " and fair trouting. 

These lakelets, though not noted for fine scenery, offer 
excellent sport, as, being difficult of access, they are not 
overworked like many nearer the main thoroughfares. 

The "Griffin Indian Lake House" is also on the W shore 
of Indian L., 2 m. S. W. of "Locke's." 

From here the grand and lonely peak styled Squaw's 
Bonnet or Snowy Mt., that rises near the shores of the 
lake, may be ascended, via road i m., and path 3 m. The 
ascent is gradual till the summit is nearly attained, when a 
precipice roc ft. in height is encountered, seemingly pre- 
venting further progress. But rather than scale its per- 
pendicular face, the traveler winds his way around it, and 
soon reaches the top. 

Lewey or Louis Lake (i^ x ^), a sheet possessing many 
charms, is reached from Indian L. via lumber road; or 
with boat up Jessup's River and its branch, (r.) the outlet 
of Lewey L ; encountering only i portage of 40 rods at 
the falls, Yi m. below the lake. Distance from " Locke 
House," 10 m. This lake has long been wonderfully pro- 
lific of large speckled trout. 

It was once the hunting resort of a Canadian Indian 
called "Lewey;" hence its name. Two islands gem its 
surface, one at the head and the other at the foot. Snowy 
Mt. is in full view. 

On the S. shore is another pleasant summer home, called 
the Lewey Lake House (P. O. Indian Lake), an admirable 
center from which to visit the neighboring lakes, ponds 
and streams. The house has been enlarged and improved 
and now off-rs tempting inducements for a long tarry. 

The Cedar Lakes, about 8 m. W. of Lewey L., are reached 
via trail. 

From Lewey L. it is 12 m. S. to Lake Pleasant (ISFewton's 
Corners P. O ) by passable road. 

Mason Lake, 3 m. S., lies near this route, and Whittaker 
Lake is in the vicinity. 

The two interesting Dug Mt. Ponds lying under the 



400 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

shadow of Dug Mt., 4 m. S. E. of Lewey Lake House, are 
reached by trail. 

East of them, perhaps i m., is Round P. before named. 

Lewey Lake, with its environs, is emphatically worthy of 
the attention of the sportsman, invalid and pleasure-seeker. 

A few miles N. E. of Indian River Hotel is a group of 
lakelets — 12 or 15 in all — not especially interesting, that 
includes Bad Luck and Split Rock Ponds, and Pine Lake. 
(See p. 396). 

From Indian River Hotel it is 9 m. N., by passable road 
to the Seven Chain Lakes, a group of smiling waters de- 
lightfully interlaced, from which we enjoy noble mountain 
views in nearly every direction. (Teams are rafted across 
Cedar R., 7 m. from Indian River Hotel.) At the terminus 
of the road, and on the shore of the Third Lake (2 x 1^), 
the most important of these and one of the loveliest in the 
Great Forest, is situated H. Bonney's "Summer Retreat," 
where guests are nicely entertained. Charges moderate. 
(P. O., Indian Lake.) 

The other lakes, numbering from one to six, have an 
average length of i m., though the Fifth is the largest and 
most admired. Between the First and Second there is a 
fall of 3 ft., but the remaining 5 are practically on the same 
level. — (Canal Report). 

From the Fourth or Fifth Lake a land and water-route 
leads to Newcomb 10 m. N. E. We carry also from N. side 
of Third Lake to Deer P., i^ m. N ; and from 2d Lake to. 
Grass P., near by. Jackson Pond lies near the S. E. shore 
of Third Lake, and a nameless pond a short distance W. 
Chub and Frank Ponds lie S. E. of the Chain. Corner and 
Cedar Ponds lie near the route to Chain Lakes. Unknown 
Lake lies W. of the route. The Chain Lakes flow into 
Rock River, and that feeds the Hudson, through Cedar 
River. This is a good sporting center. (See p. 380). 

The Cedar River Hotel, (formerly Jackson's Arctic 
House) is situated in sight of Cedar River, which winds its 
way through the plain below. It offers pleasant, comfort- 
able and home-like quarters to invalids or sportsmen. 
Table, excellent. Telegraph office in the house. (P. O , 
Indian Lake). 



THE SEVEN CHAIN LAKES. CEDAR RIVER 401 

The fishing field hereabouts, embraces the Indian R., 
down to tlie Hudson ; up the latter to entrance of Cedar 
R. and so on to the Chain Lakes; also Indian and Lewey 
Lakes, besides numerous points east of the hotel. 

Indian R. is navigable for ^ m. below Indian River 
Hotel and 2 to 3 m. above. (See Indian Lake). 

Cedar R. affords gopd navigation for 2 m. below Cedar 
River Hotel. 

May and June usually furnish fine sport in this section. 
These are the only months in which trolling for trout in 
the Wilderness is fairly rewarded. Suitable conveyances 
are furnished by the proprietor of Cedar River Hotel, to 
Cedar River Falls, Blue Mt. Lake and Chain Lakes. 

Cedar River Hotel to Rock Lake, 4 m. — the road diverg- 
ing r. from the Blue Mt. Lake route. 

Cedar River Hotel to Stephen's P., 5^ m.; Cascade P., 
ii^ m.; Eagle Lake, 5 m.; ''Eagle's Nest," on opposite side 
of the lake, i m.; — total, 32 m. from North Creek {Rarely 
traveled.) 

Cedar River Hotel to Cedar River Falls, i2>^ m. S. W. 
Good road. 

The hotel at Cedar River Falls ("Wakley's") (P. O. 
Indian Lake), furnishes everything usually needed by the 
sportsman, tourist or pleasure-seeker, including tents, fish- 
ing tackle, ammunition, provisions, boats, guides and com- 
plete camp outfits. Boarders will be provided with every 
comfort they could desire, while those wishing to "rough 
it," will find no lack of requisites for camp-life. The table, 
always excellent, is supplied with vegetables, etc., by. the 
farm adjoining the premises.* 

This portion of the Great Forest is comparatively un- 
known. The scenery is wild and beautiful, and the sport- 
ing is unsurpassed. The important explorations and ad- 
mirable reports on the Topographical Survey of the Adi- 
rondack Wilderness, by Verplanck Colvin, have served to 

*We have learaed that this house has been destroyed hyfire, but win 
he speedily rebuilt. The owner has been peculiarly unfortunate in having 
lost two fine houses in this way. This season will probably find him with 
limited accommodations; but 'Hfin running order,^^ guests will receive every 
attention his facilities allow. 



402 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

attract attention in this direction. It is an exceedingly in- 
teresting district, and we will pause to examine some of its 
most important characteristics. 

Ascending a mountain i^ m. N. W. of the hotel, by a 
good road leading to the summit, we obtain a rich and 
varied view of the surrounding country, many of the Adi- 
rondack pinnacles being visible ; also 8 or lo bodies of 
water, including the bright expanse of Raquette Lake. 

One m. N. E. of the hotel, on the road to Cedar River 
Hotel, is Crescent P. — so named from its shape. This 
affords good fly-fishing, and is the almost nightly resort of 
deer. Indeed this animal sometimes approaches the house 
nearer than this. In the river, not 5 rods away, many a 
nice string of speckled trout is caught every season. 

The Three Cedar Lakes — sources of this river which is a 
branch of the Hudson — are reached by a rough wagon- 
road, or by rowing up the river 5 m.;* thence by carrying 
i^ m. W.; thence by boating across Moose Lake, (the 
head of the S. Branch of Moose River ; see p. 67), ^ m.; 
thence by carrying 3 m. S. W. (road) to the first of these 
lakes. Total, 10 m.; or 7 m. by road. These waters are 
closely connected and boats pass from one to another. The 
first lake, nearly touched by Beaver Pond, on the W., is 
ij4 X i; the second, nearly round and }4 ^- in diameter; 
and the third, i x ^. The old "State Road," opened 
through the Wilderness in 1812-1817, from Albany, and 
also Lake George, to Russell, St. Lawrence Co., passes with- 
in 2 m. (E.) of these lakes. This lonely highway was com- 
pleted for a distance of 94 m. It is now overgrown with 
trees, N. of this point, but is kept open from Moose L. to 
Lake Pleasant, 15 m. S. (See pp. 112, 164.) From the 
former lake a lofty mountain — recently christened Colvin, 
in honor of the great explorer — is prominently seen at the 
S. This peak rises near Piseco L. and is locally known as 
Panther Mountain. 

Entertainment was formerly furnished by Wellington 

*Tliis iDroad and beautiful stream, with its liigH and spruce-clad banks, is 
navigable 1 m. farther above this point ; but below the hotel, it is broken by- 
rapids. The fall proper is about l m. below "Wakley's." 



THE WEST CANADA LAKES. 403 

Kenwell, at his "sylvan lodge," near the foot of Moose Lake. 
(P. O., Indian Lake). 

A short distance W. is Sly Pond. 

About 4 m. S. W. of the 3d Cedar L. lie the most impor- 
tant of the West Canada Lakes, sources of W. Canada 
Creek. (See p. 26.) Wild are the surroundings of these 
almost unknown, unvisited gems. Twelve or fifteen bodies 
of water really belong to this group. The principal ones 
are called "East," "West" or "South," and "Middle." Each 
is about I m. long, and they are from J^ to t m. apart. 
Their crystal depths swarm with speckled-trout of superior 
weight and quality. In Big or Middle L , salmon-trout of 
very large size abound. 

Brook Trout P., one of the chain, lies ^ m. N. W. of 
Middle L., and East L. is >^ m. E. of the latter. 

On one of the two routes from the Cedar to the main W. 
Canada Lakes, are two sheets, termed respectively Pilsbury 
and Whitney L. The first of these is one m. from the 2d 
Cedar L., and the other (sometimes called Lake Low,) i m. 
farther on the way. They were thus named from Capt. L. 
D. Pilsbury of Albany, and his friend, who, with their 
guide, were the first persons to carry boats to these waters. 
Both lakes, like the others, are richly supplied with trout, 
and deer feed in the daytime around them. The other 
route leads from 3d Cedar L. via Mud Pond. 

Sampson L. lies near Whitney L., Little Moose P., lies 
several miles S. or S. E. of Whitney, and Jessup's L., still 
farther S. All the lakes named in this connection, except 
Jessup's, also, several ponds, are embraced by the West 
Canada system. 

The ambitious sportsman who has the enterprise to pen- 
etrate so far will find the West Canada district one of the 
wildest spots in the Great Wilderness. Here the forest is 
truly primeval,, while the sporting is most superb; indeed 
it should be sufficient to meet the desires of the most exact- 
ing Nimrod or Walton. (See route from Lake Pleas- 
ant TO THIS DISTRICT.) 

On the old State or Military Road, heretofore named, is 
some of the finest woodland scenery anywhere to be en- 



404 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

joyed, reminding one of the well kept parks of "Bonny Old 
England," — open hard wood limber abounding, with lio 
undergrowth to impede our progress, with here and there 
sparkling streamlets meandering through. It is, to the 
explorer of nature's sequestered beauties, a most delightful 
route. 

A road was opened many years ago from "Wakley's" to 
the Raquette waters, skirting the shores of Fonda (now 
-generally called Sumner) and Shedd Lakes, and terminat- 
ing at the South Inlet. Distance, 11 m. Thence it is 2 m. 
by this stream to Raquette L. But it is now passable for 
pedestrians only, and the following is the route at present 
traveled :— Road, 7^ m. N. W.; Lake Sumner, (boat) i m.; 
portage 2 m. N. W ; Shedd L , (boat) ^ m ; portage, 1% 
m. N. W, to falls at South Inlet; thence boat to Raquette 
Lake, 2 m. Total, 14^ m. Boats are provided by Wakley, 
(t/ he still keeps the hotel,) for the accommodation of parties 
passing over this route. 

To Blue Mt. Lake from Cedar River Falls it is 14^ m., 
the route being identical with the one leading to Cedar 
River Hotel for a distance of about 7 m., and thence with 
the Eagle Lake route. 

Some 14 m. W. of "Wakley's" is a locality of great inr 
terest, called the "Indian Clearing," (accessible by rough 
road via Moose L.. 4 m.) a cleared space of about 1,000 
acres (3 x ^), perfectly free from stone, stump or tree. 
How, when, or by whom made, none living know— none 
live to tell. It is not supposed to have been the work of 
the beaver. Near this singular, solitary clearing (^ m. 
distant,) Moose River courses its way — here, and for miles 
hence, a Stillwater. It is crossed by several smaller crystal 
streams teeming with rarely molested trout. Here, the 
enthusiastic angler may test his skill until his ambition is 
gratified to the utmost. On every side are numerous and 
nameless lakes and ponds, embosomed among hills richly 
clad in pine, spruce and hard wood, never* desecrated by 
the hand of man with the invading axe. It is a charming 
section, full of primeval and romantic beauty. Game in 
fair quantities is still obtainable, and deer which frequently 
pasture in this natural deer-park, may sometim.es be sighted 
in the day-time. 



BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE. 405 

On the border of the "Clearing" and on Sumner Stream 
(outlet of Sumner or Fonda L.) just above its confluence 
with Moose River, is located the "Sportsman's Home " 
(P. O., Indian Lake), where comfortable quarters are found. 
Boats also are kept here and at the neighboring waters, for 
the use of guests. 

North E. of this point are Bear and Lost Ponds ; and S. 
E. is Falls P., all distant several miles. 

West a mile or two, are the 3 Mitchell Ponds (head- 
waters of Red River, a branch of Moose River) wild and 
lonely enough. Near here Verplanck Colvin, and Jack 
Sheppard, the distinguished guide, killed a panther some 
years since. 

South W. of Sportsman's Home, from 2 to 3 m , are the 
secluded sheets, Beaver, Squaw and Indian Lakes, where 
is found some of the finest sporting the region offers. 

In this vicinity are Balsam Lake (W.), Muskrat P. (E.), 
Horn, Beetle and Odor Lakes. 

Sportsmen who visit this interesting district are rarely 
disappointed with the result. To reach "Wakley's" and 
Sportsman's Home, special conv-eyance is required from 
Cedar River Hotel. Stage fare from North Creek to the 
latter, $1.75 or $2.00. 

At Cedar River Hotel we will resume the main route. 

Blue Mountain Lake (3 x 2) is pronounced by all author- 
ities the "Koh-i-noor," of the smaller* Wilderness gems. 
Numerous islets and islands of various forms and aspects, 
some frowning with adamantine sternness, others smiling 
in robes of charming green, lie in its waters of translucent 
purity, like agates and emeralds in a setting of burnished 
silver. To traverse the winding water-courses formed by 
these picturesque groups, is to penetrate a labyrinth of 
intricate and bewildering avenues. The loveliness of the 
lake is greatly enhanced by the wild and majestic scenery 
surrounding it. Mountain- peaks on three of its sides dis- 
play their sublime fronts, pre-eminent among which is the 
noble dome whence the lake derived its name. 

*Tlie Kaquette is perhaps without a peer among the larger lakes. Some 
give the palm to Big Tupper. 



4o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The Blue Mt. Lake Hotel replaces the old building de- 
stroyed by fire in 1886. It is delightfully situated on the 
E. side, on an elevation looking off on the bewitching 
waters of the lake and gently sloping to the gilded beach. 
This large and showy house has been trebled in capacity 
at the demand of the rapidly increasing patronage, and can 
now provide for about 400 guests. It has 3 verandas 
affording delightful outlooks. Many rooms, single and in 
suites have been added, and 10 or 12 cottages constructed. 
All are furnished with the latest improvements, for the 
especial comfort and pleasure of tourists and sportsmen. 
The grounds, beautified and well shaded by a thrifty grove, 
have been fitted up with rustic neatness and in various 
ways improved. Since the erection of the original building 
in 1874, this establishment has been managed by Mr. John 
Holland, and a large portion of its success is justly attribu- 
table to his ability. He is untiring in his efforts to please 
his patrons and to render their tarry an enjoyable one. 
This is the first point the stages strike on reaching the lake 
and the last one they leave in the early morning. Stage, 
steamboat, telegraph and post-office ("Blue Mt. Lake,") in 
the house. With its admirable location, enchanting views, 
and superior management and furnishings, it has reached 
one of the first positions among summer-retreats. 

The great Prospect House, the palace of the lakes, was 
erected in 1881 in place of the old Ordway or American 
House, on the sightly point, >^ m. S. W. of Holland's, and 
is a marv^el among the Wilderness hostelries. No structure 
of equal magnitude or magnificence had at that time been 
elsewhere attempted in the Great Forest. In every par- 
ticular it is one of the most complete establishments of its 
kind, as it possesses every luxury, convenience and ap- 
pointment that modern ingenuity has devised. It is four 
stories high, with Mansard roof, has a frontage of 225 feet, 
with a wing 150 feet in length, and has accommodations 
for nearly 500 guests. It is beautifully situated in a park 
of several acres, brightened with fountains and flowers, and 
interspersed with lawns, tennis, and general amusement- 
grounds, sloping to the shores on three sides of the point. 
From the broad verandas, as its name indicates, a varied 
lake and mountain-view of rich and singular beauty is en- 



BLUE MT. LAKE, PROSPECT HOUSE. 407 

joyed. It is heated by steam, and has open fire-places. Its 
electric illuminators by night, render the grounds and that 
portion of the lake bordering the spot, as light as day. 
Life here is a true picture of that presented at the famous 
watering places. Upon the whole, with all its modern 
facilities, — electric annunciators, steam-elevator, shooting- 
gallery, bowling alley, bath-rooms, telegraph- office, daily- 
mail, etc., also elaborate cuisine and disciplined service, — 
it has no superior in all this region. (P. O., Blue Mt. Lake; 
Geo. W. Turnicliff, manager.) 

One m. N. of Holland's, on the road to Long Lake Vil- 
age (9 m.), ^ m. from the lake by bridle-path, is the Blue 
Mt. House, Tyler M. Merwin, prop'r. It is a charming 
spot, situated at an altitude of 2,000 ft, above tide, on a 
sort of plateau on the mountain-side. Looking from the 
grounds, the eye rests upon a wondrous vision of beauty 
and grandeur. No easily accessible place affords so fine a 
view of the lovely lake, and were nothing else to be seen, 
the tourist wauld here be richly repaid for a journey to the 
Adirondacks. The main house, and the several new cot- 
tages near by, furnish tidy, attractive and home-like ac- 
commodations for 80 guests, and the table, mostly supplied 
by the products of the proprietor's own farm, is really a 
superior one. It might be imagined from the prodigality 
of honey and cream provided, that the " land flowing with 
milk and honey" had been reached, Merwin 's is a most 
desirable resort on account of the high elevation, healthful 
air and magnificent prospect. In fact, a more charming 
situation for a summer-sojourn could scarcely be imagined. 
The plans and appointments are especially adapted to 
families with children. It is frequented by a refined and 
cultivated circle. Guests are furnished with free convey- 
ance to and from the post-office at Blue Mt. Lake House. 
Stages bound for Long Lake pass the house daily. 

Blue Mt. (Ind., To-war-loon-da, *' Hill of Storms ") is 
now ascended from the Long Lake road (on horseback, 
when preferred) — the bridle path starting at the brook just 
below Merwin 's, and nearly i m. from Holland's. 

By diverging here a little to the left of the road, a beau- 



4o8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

tiful cascade leaping down the mountain, is revealed.* 
The ascent {i% m.) is very gradual for two-thirds of the 
v/ay. A portion of the broad and level summit having 
been cleared by the State Survey, under Verplanck Colvin, 
it now affords an uninterrupted view. The prospect en- 

*THE MOUNTAIN BROOK. 



BY ERNST HELD. 

A mountain brook leapt from his cool lofty home, 
Singing and springing and eager to roam; 
His cradle was fair; on a soft mossy bed, 
Studded with diamonds and pearls he was laid. 

But he scorned the fair flowerets' pleading eyes 
And the birdlings' calls and their lullabies ; 
Caresses and kisses from fern and from spray 
He brushed from his brow and went singing away. 

He leapt from the cliff and he brawled over rocks ; 
In the woods he lingered in cool, shady nooks ; 
Through meadows he wandered and kissed sweet flowers, 
Whilst deer slaked their thirst in the still evening hours. 

To the fisher he yielded with sorrow and pride 
His gem-covered treasures, famed near and wide. 
But restless he grew ; he was eager for strife, 
His share to do in the work of life. 

He was joined by gay fellows on every side. 

Whose shoulders grew stronger and swifter their stride ; 

Heavy logs they bore to the valley with zeal 

And turned with glee the splashing wheel. 

Now broader and deeper the flood sweeps on, 
Bearing rich treasure from town to town, 
Laving of cottage and castle the feet, 
Bringing them comfort and bread and meat. 

Pleasures and sorrows the river bears, 
Garments of splendor and shadow he wears ; 
Vainly are seeking to hide in the flood 
Sorrow her anguish, and crime her blood. 

The river flows on to the ocean's embrace, 
Ending in bliss a long blissful race ; 
Yet ofttimes, arrayed in white ghostly shrouds. 
The mountain brook visits his home in the clouds. 



\ 



ENVIRONS OF BLUE MT. LAKE. 4O9 

joyed from this noted pinnacle is ample reward for the 
toils of the route. The majestic forest stretching inter- 
minably away, emblazoned with the silvery sheen of the 
pearl at our feet; the queenly Raquette, and a score or 
more of other gleaming lakes; the towering forms that in 
the N. attend the sovereign dome, Tahawus; the lofty 
heights of Snowy Mountain which proudly bar the S.; and 
the multitude of lesser peaks that in billowy masses inter- 
vene, present a landscape in which are garnered all the 
elements of loveliness and sublimity. 

Upon a pretty island, facing Holland's Hotel, ex-mayor 
Thatcher of Albany has a handsome " Hunting Lodge." 
Here with a select party of friends he spends a portion of 
the heated season. There is a singular cavern on this 
island. 

The "Crane Cottage " is located directly opposite, on a 
headland, embowered in trees, in a most romantic nook on 
the E. shore, and is the summer residence of the owner. 
Other choice sites on points and islands are occupied by 
these sylvan retreats, notably that of Col. Duryea, of New- 
York, near the outlet. 

Blue Mt. Lake is not famed alone for its picturesque at- 
tractions. The size and delicious flavor of its trout, though 
not as numerous as formerly, may well command the angler's 
attention. "Lakers" are occasionally taken here weighing 
upwards of lo lbs. Trolling with the "gang" or "spoon" is 
the usual method. 

We can only advert in general terms to the various 
waters lying in the neighborhood. 

Minnow P. (i x %), % m. N. E. of the E. end of Blue 
Mt. Lake, once teemed with speckled trout of extraordi- 
nary size, some of them attaining 3 and even 4 lbs., and 
large catches are still secured. It is reached by road 
from Merwin's, by whom it is owned. This pond is reserved 
for guests and is not open to the public. 

Two m. N. E. of Minnow P., is Salmon P. (i x ^); and 
it is the same distance, a little S. of E., to Tirrell P. (i x ^), 
trapper's line. Good carry from Salmon to Tirrell P., i m. 
S.; also from near the S. end of Tirrell P. (up hill) to Wolt 

S5 



4IO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

P. (i^ X ^), which is almost as round as a dollar. The 
waters of Tirrell and Minnow P., as well as of the lake, 
lave the base of the huge mass (Blue Mt.) towering above 
them. South P. is 3 m. N. of the lake ; Rock L., (2^x 2) 
4 m. S. E ; Rock P., (^ x i^) i m. S.; Deep P., ^ m. S. 
W.; Stephen's P., (^ x }() 2^ m. S.; Cascade P., 2>^ m. 
S.; Chain L's , 9 m. N. E. (See p. 400). 

Boating from Blue Mt. Lake has an extended and de- 
lightful range. Passing thence to Raquette Lake, (10 m.) 
and making a circuit of that magnificent sheet, in an exam- 
ination of its numerous bays, points and navigable inlets, 
one will have traveled a hundred miles with the interruption 
of but a single insignificant carry of ^ m. Then there is 
the almost endless navigation beyond. Indeed, nearly 
every desirable resort in the Adirondacks is accessible by 
water and portage from this lake. 

Blue Mt. Lake,* Eagle and Utowana Lakes are com- 
prised in the "Eckford Chain," and are the most remote 
sources of Raquette River. The serpentine stream form- 
ing their outlet is locally termed East Inlet, or Marion 
River. It discharges into a deep bay on the E. side of 
Raquette Lake. i^See following ''Distance Table.''') 

Near the head of Eagle L. is located the famous "Eagle's 
Nest" of Ned Buntline. Here for several years, commenc- 
ing with 1856, the "blood and thunder" novelist had his 
abode, and here are buried two children and a wife. A 
cluster of balsams, in the form of a square, mark their 
lonely resting-place. It is told that on a fairy-like islet in 
Blue Mt. Lake he produced some of his most sensational 
stories. 

Eagle and Utowana Lakes are pleasant sheets — the latter 
(Ind., "Sunshine, or fairest water") surrounded by unbroken 
forests. 

The region immediately S. of them is still very wild. 

*It is to Ibe regretted that the name this lake and mountain originally 
here of "Emmons" (so called in honor of the eminent geologist) was not re- 
tained. Blue Mt. Lake was also christened "Lake Janet" and Tallow Lake ; 
Eagle, "Lake Lyman," and "Lake Catherine," and Utowana, "Lake Marion." 

"Eckford Chain," was so called from the celebrated shiphuilder, Henry 
Eckford, for whose daughter Janet, Emmons named the upper lake of this 
noted group. It may he proper to state in this connection, that the famous 
Fulton Chain of Eight Lakes was named in honor of Robert Fulton, the great 
civil engineer, and constructor of the first steamboat. 



EAGLE LAKE. NED. BUNTLINE. 41I 

To visit the 3 secluded Sargent Ponds, we carry from 
Marion R. {}4 m. below the Utowana portage) 1 1^ m. N. 
by fair path. The first of these (^ x ^), a beautiful little 
gem, is almost as circular as the tracing of a compass. The 
second (j^ x tV) is an unimportant pool which trout scorn 
to inhabit. The third (i^ x j4) — nearly a mile N. of the 
first, the second lying midway between — is irregular in 
shape, and charmingly indented with bays and capes. The 
surrounding scenery is wild and picturesque. The two 
larger ponds are very deep, and the home of numerous 
lake-trout that here attain unusual proportions, some weigh- 
ing as high as a dozen pounds. We believe that these inter- 
esting waters are within the limits ^/Hamilton Park. i^See 
Little Tupper Lake.) 

Between Blue Mt. Lake, Big Tupper and the Saranac 
Lakes, there is now, or soon will be, a continuous line of 
steamers, affording close connection with each other, via 
Raquette, Forked and Long Lakes and Raquette River. 

The natty steam-yacht Towarloonda or Lrocosia, leaves 
Blue Mt. Lake, twice daily, conveying the traveler through 
Eagle and Utowana Lakes, with their connecting streams, 
to the "Utowana carry."* Hence a pleasant forest road is 
followed to the head of navigation on Marion River (^^ m.) 
where the steamer Killoquah is taken for Raquette Lake, 
and "Forked Lake Carry," (fare, $1.75) touching at the 
several camps and hotels en route.\ This journey forms one 
of the most delightful and enjoyable excursions that the 
region affords. | 

A carriage drive has been constructed through the woods 
between Blue Mt. and Raquette Lakes. 

Blue Mt. Lake, with the improved roads and facilities 
for travel in this direction, and its superior hotels, and un- 
surpassed scenery, has become one of the most popular 

*Supplies, entertainment and transportation (50 cts.) furnislied here at the 
rustic "Carry Inn." 

tExcursion Tickets from Saratoga Springs to Eaquette Lake and return, 
good for ten day, are issued by the Adirondack Kailway Co., and sold at 
all Ticket Offices in Saratoga. Price, only $10.25. 

tThe unique and costly Memorial Bridge, spanning the outlet of the lake, 
and erected in commemoration of the name of Dr. Thos. Clark Durant by 
his son William West, gains the instant admiration of the traveler. 



412 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

resorts in the Wilderness, and an important entrance to 
the interior of the Great Forest. 

The new road to Long Lake Village (9 m?) is now in good 
condition^ and daily stages serve that route. 

Round Trip — Blue Mt. Lake {Holland's). 

MILES. AOO. 

To foot of Lake 2 

Outlet i^ 2% 

Eagle Lake i 31^ 

Outlet _.,, iyi 4 

Uiowana Lake 2 6 

Outlet i^ 61^ 

Portage, r ^ 63/ 

Marion River to Raquette Lake , 5% 12 

Raquette Lake 7 ^ 191/^ 

Portage % 20 

Big and Little Forked Lakes 6 26 

Ponds and portages to Little Tupper Lake. . . 11^ 37^ 

Little Tupper Lake 6 43^ 

Outlet I 44^ 

Round Pond 2% 47 H 

Stream and portages to Big Tupper Lake 4^ 52 

Big Tupper Lake 7 59 

Raquette River to "Mother Johnson's" 27 86 

Portage.... i^ 87^ 

Raquette River 6 931^ 

Long Lake to "Kellogg's" (Lake House) 10 103^ 

Long Lake to near head ... 3 ^ 106^ 

Portage i 107 ^ 

South Pond i]4 1 09 

Portage to Blue Mt. Lake* 3 112 

Lake , 2 114 

*DiRECT Water Route to Long Lake.— Carry from Blue Mt. Lake (start- 
ing 50 rods beyond the old portage, and following a little stream), l m.; cross 
Minnow P., 3^ m.: carry 1^ m.; cross Mud P., ^^ m. (1 x 3^); caiTy j4 m.; cross 
South P., IX m.; carry l m. to Long Lake. 



DIVISION V. 

INTO THE GAROGA, PLEASANT AND PISECO LAKE REGIONS. 

Amsterdam^ Fonda^ Little Falls, Herkimer and Utica, 

locations on the N. Y. C. 6^ H. R. R. R., furnish 

the usual modes of access* 

Thirty-first : — From Amsterdam, a pleasant and thriving 
city on the banks of the Mohawk, (French, '^ River Corlac,'') 
Lake Pleasant and the adjacent waters are accessible by a 
good stage route, viz : — Northville, 24 m.; Hope Center, 6 
m.; Benson, t 2 m.; Benson Center, 3 m.; Wellstown,J 3 m.; 
Sageville, 15 m. Total, 53 m. Stages, we believe, run 
daily, though this section is most commonly visited from Fonda. 
A railroad now extends from that place to Northville (26 m.) 
via Gloversville, saving the traveler a tedious stage ride 
from Amsterdam or Gloversville to Northville, and render- 
ing it a comparatively easy matter to reach the Lake Pleas- 
ant and Piseco Lake region. R. R. fare, $1.15. (See 
Route 32d.) 

Thirty- second: — From Fonda, § the county-seat of Mont- 
gomery Co., (Fonda Hotel), another flourishing village 

'Amsterdam, Fonda {Fultonvillc), Little Falls, Herkimer (MoJiawk), and 
IJtica, have depots on, or near tlie West Shore R. R. 

tA limited quantity of gold-ore lias been found near Benson. 

t North-east, E., and S. E. of Wellstown is an extended group of waters, 
bearing the following names :— Mott and Kenyon Ponds, New, Wilcox, St. 
John, Len's, Mud, Sand and Livingston Lakes, which are reached by a rough 
wagon-road. 

§Ind., Cawg7i-^a-wja-flra "a coffin"; from a large black stone, in the river 
opposite the village, which resembles a coffin. One authority states that 
the name signifies, "cook the kettle," and that Amsterdam, Johnstown, New 
Broad Alban, and Mayfield lie in a square and were the ancient Caugh-na- 
wa-ga. The elegant country-seat of Sir Wm. Johnson, commonly called the 
"Old Fort," is 3 m. W. of Amsterdam. It is a massive stone edifice and was 
richly adorned. It is still standing and occupied, we believe, by a family 
bearing the name of Young. After removing to his new mansion at Johns- 
town, the baronet presented "Fort Johnson" to his son. Sir John. (See pp. 
158, 165.) 



414 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pleasantly situated upon the Mohawk, ihe Lake Pleasant 
waters are accessible by Fonda, Johnstown and Glov- 
ERSViLLE R. R., to Northville, on Sacandaga River, (26 m.) 
a charming village with a beautiful park {Sacandaga), and 
fine hotel; and thence by stage to Sageville, 29 m. Total 
distance, 55 m.; fare, $3 15. 

Between Fonda and Northville, one passes through 
Johnstown* and Gloversville (8 m), noted for their im- 
mense glove and mitten manufacturing interest. 

From Northville the wagon-road passes through a thinly 
inhabited region, ascends the Sacandaga Valley for a con- 
siderable distance, and offers mountain-views in various 
directions. 

Sageville, the shire town of Hamilton Co., but of small 
population, is delightfully located midway between the 
southern extremities of Pleasant and Round Lakes, lying 
only % m. apart and connected by boatable stream. Upon 
an elevation commanding an exquisite view of these and a 
dozen other glittering lakes, the surrounding country with 
its cultivated meadows and interminable forests giving 
richness and variety to the landscape, is situated Lake 
Pleasant Inn, a 3 story structure, encircled by two 
verandas, and facing a pleasant little park, whose thrifty 
maples lend delicious shade. The rooms are very pleasant, 
are suitably furnished, and the beds are unusually comfort- 
able. In the proper season, trout and venison are staple 
dishes on the table. A tally-ho coach enables guests to 
make enjoyable excursions over good roads to different 
points of interest. A small steam- yacht on Round Lake is 
also constantly at their service. The proprietor, an accom- 
plished woodsman, sportsman and hotel-manager, is very 

'Named in lionor of the celebrated Sir Wm. Jonnson, \)j wliom it was 
founded in 1T60. After a long and brilliant career, some of tlie best authori- 
ties claim, that this remarkable man ended his own life by hanging himself 
in his garden, as he foresaw the impending Revolution which would place 
him in an extremely embarrassing position. His lonely grave in the village 
church-yard— marked by no monumental stone— is unnoticed ; his home is in 
the hands of strangers; and the memory of him who was once "prince 
among his people," has nearly faded away. "Johnson Hall," the elegant 
mansion erected by him in 1763, and so long the rendezvous of his dusky 
brothers of the Six Nations, those "Romans of America," shows no serious 
marks of time. It is beautifully situated on an eminence X ^a- N. W. of the 
village, and commands a lovely view of the environing country. It Is in pos- 
session of Hon. J. E. Wells, who keeps it in excellent repair. (See pp. 3T1, 384.) 








% 




.Jt'^COMIi-^ ''^' ■- 



LAKE PLEASANT, AND ROUND LAKE. 



LAKE PLEASANT. SAGEVILLE. 415 

popular with the habitues of that locality. Capacity of the 
Inn, 75. 

Call's Hotel, (formerly Kun-Ja-Muck Inn), has also a 
charming situation, not far from the former, affording, 
from its broad piazzas, a view of great extent and beauty, 
60 peaks being in full display. Then there are the glim- 
mering lakes besides, lending many additional charms to 
the picture. This hotel offers many attractions to the 
traveler. The rooms are large, commodious and well- 
equipped. A mountain-spring gives its limpid treasure to 
the house. The sanitary condition of the premises is above 
criticism. The table is uniformly excellent. Acceptable 
entertainment is furnished for 75 visitors. The proprietor 
is a veteran guide, and his great experience in forest-life 
enables him to cater successfully to the wants of sportsmen. 

Four miles down the lake and within ^ m. of the outlet 
is the Sturgis House, also most agreeably located. The 
proprietor belongs to a family of noted hunters. (P. O., 
Newton's Corners). 

At any of these resorts, visitors will find a few days or 
weeks of summer-tarrying exceedingly pleasurable. Stage 
from Sageville to Newton's Corners twice a week ; fare, 
25 cts. 

Lake Pleasant is about 4 m. in length by i m. in width, 
and its outlet feeds the E. branch of Sacandaga River*, 75 
m. long, an important tributary of the Hudson, which it 
enters near Lake Luzerne. (See p. 390 ) It is embellished 
with a single island and handsome sand beaches, while the 
graceful slopes of the encompassing hills are richly varie- 
gated with green fields and darker patches of forest, pre- 
senting scenery soft and picturesque, as well as wild and 
grand. Near at hand rises the interesting mountain. Spec- 
ulator, casting its shadows upon the pleasant waters of the 
lake. Distance to base from Sageville, 2 m.; to summit, 4 
m. The view afforded here is something wonderful. Al- 
most countless peaks looming up grandly in the blue dis- 
tance, and about 40 lakes and ponds are visible to the 
naked eye. 

*Sa-can-aa-ga, or Sa-chon-da-gp, (local pronunciation, Sock-an-daw-gar,) 
is an Indian word, signifying "much water," or "drowned lands." 



4l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Burnt Mt. and Rift Hill, which lift their summits 2 m. 
below the lake, and Holmes' Hill, rearing its height near 
Sturgis Hotel, give additional interest to the landscape. 
Although Lake Pleasant can boast of but little wildness, as 
clearings nearly encircle it, it is admirably adapted as 
headquarters for excursions to innumerable waters that 
furnish fine sport and scenery. We will conduct the 
sportsman and pleasure seeker to the most prominent of 
these, generally reached from the hotels by comfortable 
roads. 

Rowing down the outlet 2 or 3 m., and up Kunjamuck 
R., the N. W. branch of the Sacandaga, about 4 m., we 
reach Elm Lake (i x i^; Ind. name, KunjamucJz), The 
same point is accessible by good road from Newton's Cor- 
ners, 3 m. 

About the year 18 15, Mr, Rhinelander, a wealthy gen- 
tleman from New York, cleared 300 acres here for a stock 
farm, and erected a costly mansion on the shores of this 
lovely little lake. For many seasons it was the resort of 
gay company from the south and east. But now it presents 
a scene of solitude and desolation. In 1819 the proprietor 
was stricken with paralysis, the house was afterwards des- 
troyed by fire, and this woodland elysium was abandoned. 
Now nothing remains to remind one of the elegant struct- 
ure which once occupied this enchanting site, or of the 
gayety that reigned within its walls, save a heap of black- 
ened ruins. N. E., E. and S. E, of Elm L. are Round, 
Kinser and Eder Ponds. 

Continuing the journey from Elm L, up the Kunjamuck 
12 m. by boat, or 6 m, by road, we reach Oregon Pond. 

Carry from Oregon P. i m. N. to Little Round Lake, or 
Round or Marvina P,; and from the latter, 2 m, N. to 
Rock Pond. 

From Rock P. carry i m. E. to Long P., and i m. N. 
to Johnnie Mack P., whence we visit Indian Lake. (See 
p. 398). 

Again from Oregon P. it is 6 m. S. E. to another Round 
P., which, though in the midst of a clearing, is noted for 
deer and trout. In the vicinity are the two Pine Lakes 
which furnish but few fish — all reached by paths or roads. 



LAKE PLEASANT SECTION. ROUND LAKE. 4x7 

The "Old State Road*" named on p. 402, can be traveled 
by footmen 40 m., and by wagon 15 or 18 m. from Lake 
Pleasant. To the three Cedar Lakes from Newton's Cor- 
ners by this route the distance is about 14 m.; thence to 
the West Canada Lakes, 4 m. (See p. 403). 

The route to Lewey L., 12 m. distant, branches r. from 
the *' State Road," 6 m. from Lake Pleasant, passing near 
Mason L. 3 m. this side of Lewey Lake House. (See p. 
399), (Reached by private conveyance from Lake Pleas- 
ant; price, $5.00.) 

By the Lewey L. route we reach Whittaker L. (i x ^4), 
a pretty sheet with two islands, 6 m. from Lake Pleasant. 

From Whittaker L, to the two Dug Mt. Ponds, the dis- 
tance by road is 2 m. Size of each ^ x J^. They are 
overshadowed by the precipitous peak from which they 
are named. 

From the upper of these it is i m. E. to Oregon P., and 
3J^ m. W. by carry to Mason Lake. 

The famous trout stream, Jessup's River, (Ind., "Talking 
Water,") the principal inlet of Indian Lake, is crossed by 
the "State Road " 6 m. from Lake Pleasant, and receives 
the waters of the Dug Mt. Ponds but a short distance 
away. (See pp. 399, 402). 

From Whittaker Lake it is 4 m. S. E. to Elm Lake. 

Hamilton L. (1% x %) lies 3 m. S. E. of Sageville, near 
the stage road. There are woods all around it except at 
the head, where there is a clearing made by fire. 

Round or Sacandaga Lake (35^ x 2%) the fountain-head 
of Sacandaga R., is quite irregular in form, lacking much 
of being circular as its name would indicate. Its s/iape 
was best described by an old Indian hunter, who asserted 
it was " like a bear's paw spread out with an island between 
the balls of the toes." It has, however, but one island. It 
is exceedingly picturesque, with wildly romantic shores, 
with the nearly unbroken forests, stretching away to the 
summits of the lofty hills bounding the horizon's circle. 

•This road was opened from Lake Champlain, Lake George, or Albany to 
Lake Pleasant, (TO m.) and 24 to 40 m. beyond. It was designed to extend to 
Ogdensburg, via Russell. (See p. 112). 



4l8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

As heretofore noted, boats pass freely down its outlet to 
Lake Pleasant, ^ m., passing Sageville midway. 

Lying between these sister meres and N. of the connect- 
ing stream is Echo Lake (i x }(), i% m. from Sageville. 

Mud or Beaver L. {}i x ^) is 2 m. N. by water, and 1% 
m. by road from Round Lake, into which it, and Echo 
outlet. 

Lake Sound {j{ x }() is j{ m. from Round Lake, and 
discharges into Mud Lake outlet. 

West of Round L., }4 m., and 2^ m. from Sageville, is 
Little Long, Fawn, or Tacalago L. It is very narrow, and 
an affluent of the W. branch of the Sacandaga. It is 
thronged with brook and salmon-trout, and its shores still 
display considerable wildness. As the summit-level be- 
tween Little Long and Round Lake is but a few feet above 
their surface, in wet seasons water runs both ways. Vast 
beds of beautiful moss are found in the neighborhood. 

From Tacalago L. we carry 2 m. S. of W. to Fly L., 
(^ X }() which is 5 m. by road from Sageville. The 
scenery here is wild and beautiful. 

Fall L. {j4 X }() twin-sister of the former, and both ex- 
pansions of the romantic little river, the chief inlet of 
Piseco L , is 3 m. S. W. These two pretty lochs are con- 
nected by this navigable stream and generally afford fine 
trouting. 

Ox Bow L., {ij4 X ^) so named from its shape, lies 4}^ 
m. S. W. of Sageville, on the good and direct road to Piseco 
L., lying 2 m. beyond. The "village" of Piseco is i^ m. 
farther. Ox Bow has well forested shores and is noted 
for its beauty. 

Piseco or Pezeeko Lake, (6% x i}() bears the name of 
a singular and venerable Indian hermit, who for some un- 
known cause, many years ago, deserted the tribe of which 
he was chief, and for a long time dwelt alone upon its 
shores. Some say the word was derived from pi'sco or 
piscis, a fish, and therefore signifies ''^ fish lake." Although 
lying near the borders of an open country, it is mostly sur- 
rounded by the wilderness. Its shore on the W. is abrupt 
and picturesque, and the scenery is very bold and striking. 



P13EC0 LAKE DISTRICT. 419 

Some of the surrounding mountains are 500 ft. above its 
surface. A number of cottages are perched on its banks. 

Speckled trout fishing is good in its inlets, and the lake 
itself furnishes salmon trout in considerable quantities. Its 
outlet (W. Sacandaga) is quite broad and deep, and, to- 
gether with a stream entering Gerundegut Bay, also near 
the foot of the lake, affords the best trouting in the vicinity. 
Bull-heads are found in great numbers near the head of the 
lake. There are feasible connections with other lakes and 
ponds by the inlets. In its neighborhood, E., are Fiddler's 
and Spy Lakes; S., are Cook's and Sheriff's Lakes. Near- 
ly all the waters previously named in this department pay 
tribute to either the E. or W. branches of the Sacandaga. 

Spruce and Balsam Lakes lying 12 m. N. W. are reached 
by following a sled-road. (See p. 46). 

"T." Lake lies N.; "G." and Pine Lakes, W., and More- 
house L , S. W. of Piseco L. (See pp. 45, 46, 47). 

The little village of Piseco, located at the head of the 
lake, once contained 250 inhabitants, and was the shire 
town of Hamilton Co.; but it is now nearly deserted, only 
three or four families remaining, of whom boats may be 
procured. Geo. Youmans, formerly furnished boats and 
good entertainment, at remarkably low prices. It is pos- 
sible he does so yet. 

Rood's Hotel, (P. O., Sageville,) is pleasantly situated 
in the midst of a clearing on the lake, 2^ or 3 m. above 
the outlet. The table and accommodations generally are 
highly recommended. 

The road from Lake Pleasant to Piseco L., extends 
thence to Prospect, via Morehouseville, *' Griff Evans," 
"Ed." Wilkinson's and Ohio, and is in good condition ex- 
cept that portion — about 9 m. — skirting and lying immedi- 
ately below Piseco Lake. Distance from Lake Pleasant to 
Prospect, 47 m. (See p. 42). 

A route leads from the foot of Piseco L. to Fonda as 
follows: — Road to "Shaker Place," 5 m ; Arietta, 9 m., (or 
by boat up S. branch Sacandaga, 14 m.); Wheelerville, near 



420 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Canada Lakes, 9 m.; Gloversville, 14 m.; thence to Fonda, 
by R. R., 8 m. Total, 45 m. The road is fair as far as 
Arietta. The latter, and also " Shaker Place," are good 
fishing points. There is only a farm-house at Shaker Place. 
Arietta is a hamlet of about 25 houses. Board is obtained 
there at a private house; price, 75 cts, to $1.00 per day. 
A hotel may have been erected. Stage tri-weekly from 
Gloversville to Wheelerville. 

Route to Garoga Lake Region : 

MILES. 

From Fonda, via Gloversville, to Garoga Lakes, . 18 
*' . " " " '' Pine Lake, . 22 

*' Stink Lakes, . 26 

The Garoga Lakes, two crystal sheets about i m. in 
length, are connected by a neck or short stream which lets 
the waters of the West Lake into those of the East Lake. 
They empty into the Mohawk. A little village, Garoga, 
has sprung up near their shores and a good hotel has been 
erected here, called the Sherman House. 

About 1 1^ m. N. of the Garoga Lakes is Fish or Canada 
Lake, also called Lake Byrn, a source of E. Canada Creek, 
(Ind., Ci-o-ha-na). It is irregular in shape, being in reality 
two lakes linked together and assuming the form of the let- 
ter S. The West Lake (i x ^) discharges its waters into 
the East Lake (3 x i). Its surroundings are quite roman- 
tic, the surface of the ground rising back from the shores 
being thickly covered with boulders of unique and fantastic 
shapes. Many pretty summer-homes give additional at- 
traction to the grove- clad banks. Tradition informs us 
that in this neighborhood, large sums of money were once 
buried by the Spaniards. The money digger however has 
met with no success thus far in his toilsome researches. 
The inlet flows from Pine, Stink, Mud, Prairie, Bellows, 
Otter and Green Lakes, a few miles distant. 

The scenery encompassing Pine Lake (4 x i) is quite 
interesting. In accordance with its name, large numbers of 
the "princely pine " adorn its borders. There are good 
boarding-houses here ; and we think that the large and 



GAROGA LAKE REGION. LITTLE FALLS. 42 1 

fashionable Pine Lake Hotel, burned to the ground a few- 
years ago, has been rebuilt. 

The three Stink Lakes, are not distinguished for their 
beauty. A great quantity of fish was once washed over a 
beaver-dam near these lakes, and decayed there, suggesting 
the offensive appellation. We are pleased with the name 
Verplanck Colvin recently gave them of "Stoner's" Lakes, 
after their discoverer. We believe that he also styles the 
upper sheet, Vrooman L., and the western one. Dexter L. 

North E. of Stoner's Lakes is Chase's L., and N. W. are 
the 3 Spectacle Lakes, and many miles N. W. is the group 
comprising Jerseyfield, Black Creek, North Branch and 
other lakes. (See p. 48.) {Trappers of New York?) 

Lake Good Luck, a few miles N. of the Stoner Lakes, 
empties into the W. branch of the Sacondaga \\ m, below 
Devereaux's Mills. Perhaps 2 m. below the outlet of this 
lake is Trout Lake, which, as its name intimates, is well 
stored with this favorite fish. It is about 2 m. below to 
Satterlee's Mills, located on the W. Sacandaga. By fol- 
lowing the course of the rapid stream from this point, 
Piseco Lake, its chief fountain-head, may be reached. 

The section just described, is a rocky, picturesque and 
wooded district. 

Thirty- third: — From Little Falls,* 21 m, E. of Utica, 
(Girvan and Metropolitan Houses), a prosperous manu- 
facturing village located on the banks of the Mohawk, on 
steep declivities, and also in a deep and romantic gorge, 
several routes lead to the Piseco Lake Region. Of the 
two usually selected one passe- through Fairfield, Norway 
and Morehouseville, and the other through Salisbury and 
Devereaux. The distance from Little Falls to Fairfield is 
73^ m ; thence to Norway, about 4 m.; Morehouseville, 20 
m.; foot of Piseco Lake, 10 m; to the settlement (Piseco) 
at the head of the lake, 6 m. Total, 47 ^ m. The distance 
by the Salisbury route is about the same. The road is 
good to the foot of the lake; thence it is bad. (See p. 418). 

From Morehouseville the head-waters of West Canada 
Creek are visited. (See pp. 42-49). 

* This village derived its name from tlie cascade in the vicinity. Being in- 
ferior in size to the more noted cataract of Cohoes, the place was denomi- 
nated the '^ Little Falls of the Mohawk." 



42 2 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Thirty-fourth : — From Herkimer,* the shire town of 
Herkimer Co., 14 m. E. of Utica, handsomely situated near 
the confluence of W. Canada Creek and the Mohawk, to 
Norway, it is 14 m. Here the route joins the one leading 
from Little Falls. Distance from Herkimer to head of 
Piseco Lake, 50 m. The Palmer is the leading hotel in 
this village. 

Herkimer is the southern terminus of that magnificent 
thoroughfare through the New York Wilderness, the Adi- 
rondack AND St. Lawrence Railroad. The construc- 
tion of this model highway through the wildest fastnesses 
of the mountain-forest, forming one of the most picturesque 
routes on the continent, is due to the enterprise of Dr. W. 
Seward Webb. (See p. 104.) In road-bed and equip- 
ment it has no superior in America. The heaviest steel 
rails are placed on ties, 3,000 to the mile ; the bridges are 
iron, with solid floors ; the coaches are of the latest design; 
and the locomotives are of the largest size. All the cars 
are furnished with modern couplers and automatic air- 
brakes. Safety switches are in constant use. The easy 
grades permit the passage of trains at great speed. They 
are run by the -telegraphic direction of experienced des- 
patchers, and the train-service is unsurpassed. A novelty in 
railroading is the "Club Limited," which is composed of 
club-cars, day-coaches and vestibuled "sleepers," running 
from the Grand Central Depot at New York to every Adi- 
rondack point on the line. 

The "Old Forge," "Fulton Chain," "Honnedaga," "Paul 
Smith," "Saranac," "Ampersand," "Lake Placid" and "Tup- 
per Lake" Wagner Drawing Room Cars, were built espec- 
ially for the road, and are not excelled in their appoint- 
ments. 

Thus, it will be seen, that by this mode of transit a jour- 
ney to and through the Adirondacks is accomplished in 
perfect comfort, and indeed, it has become a matter of 
absolute luxury. Every important resort in the region is 

*Named in lionor of Gen. Nicliolas Herkimer, who was mortally wounded 
on the bloody battlefield of Oriskany, in 1T77. 

At Ilion, 1% m. W. of Herkimer, is Remington's Immense Rifle and Pistol 
Armory, and Remington TYPEWRiTER-Manufactory. These arms, and the 
typewriter, have world-wide celebrity. 



^ 




DR. W. SEWARD WEBB. 



HERKIMER. ADIRONDACK & ST. LAWRENCE R. R. 423 

reached by this railway and its connections. The following 
distance-table will be of interest to the traveler. 

THROUGH THE WILDERNESS FROM HERKIMER. 

Distances from Herkimer to Malone, and intermediate 
points^ via Adirondack & St. Lawrence Railroad to 

MILES. 

Poland i6>^ 

Trenton Falls, (p. 25) 23 j^ 

Prospect, (p. 35) 25>^ 

Remsen, {Junction R. W. 6^ O. R. R.j p. 50) 27^ 

Honnedaga,* (p. 36) 31!/^ 

Forestport, (p. 51).... 35^^ 

White Lake, (p. 5 i ) 421^ 

Otter Lake, (p. 5 1) 47 ^ 

McKeever, (Moose River ; p. 59) 491^ 

Fulton Chain, ('Arnold's"; p. 60) 58 

Big Moose Lake, (p. 73) 69 

Beaver River, (p. 102) 77^ 

Little Rapids,t (p. in) 80 

Ne-ha-sa-ne,t (p. r 11) 87 

Bog Lake, (p. 116) 90^ 

Horseshoe Pond.J; (p. 51) . . gg% 

Childwold,|| (p. 163) 107 

Tupper Lake Junction, (pp. 169, 182, 261) ii3>^ 

Saranac Jnn Station, (p. 266) 128^ 

Lake Clear, § (Junction Saranac Branch ; p. 244). 131^ 

Paul Smith's Station, (p. 237) 136^/^ 

Rainbow Lake, (p. 235) 139 

Lake Kushaqua, (Round Pond ; p. 236) 144 

Loon Lake,** (p. 231) 148 

Mountain View, (State Dam ; p. 193) 160 

Malone, (p. 184) 173 

*Statlon for Adibondack League Club Pbesebve, 

tPrivate stations In Dr. Weblb's Ne-ha-sa-ne Pabk. 

tStation for Long Lake. 

llStation for Childwold Pabk Hotel. 

§Change cars at Lake Clear for Lower Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. (See 

pp. 247-250, 329.) 

**Cliange cars at Loon Lake for Cliateaugay and Chazy Lakes. (See pp. 
204, 228.) 



424 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The A. & St. L. R. R., threading its way along the banks 
of West Canada Creek and through that most delightful 
valley, affords another pleasant mode of reaching Jock's or 
Honnedaga Lake, and the waters beyond, by leaving the 
cars at Poland, 16^ m. from Herkimer. There private 
conveyance is taken for Ohio Village (9 m.) whence we 
proceed as directed on p. ^6. 



Thirty-fifth : — Utica, (Ind., Ya-nun- da- da-sis, "going 
around the hill,") the county seat of Oneida Co., is a hand- 
some and flourishing city, pleasantly situated on the site 
of old Fort Schuyler, and on the S. bank of Mohawk River, 
from which it rises to an elevation of 150 ft. It is the cen- 
ter of a rich dairy section, and is largely engaged in manu- 
factures. It is adorned by many elegant residences, espec- 
ially on Genesee St., and is enriched by a number of 
excellent institutions, including the noted State Lunatic 
Asylum. The Erie Canal passes through the city, and the 
Chenango Canal begins at this place. It is a very impor- 
tant station on "America's Greatest Railroad," the 
New York Central & Hudson River Railway, and is the 
southern terminus of the Black River Division of the Rome, 
Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R.* Here also connection 
is made with the West Shore,* the New York, Ontario 
& Western, and the Delaware, Lackawanna & West- 
ern Railroads. 

Among the several large hotels, the famous "Bagg's," 
and the Butterfield, are far the most prominent. 

The many routes leading from various stations on the R. 
W. & O. R. R. into the Great Forest have already been 
given. {See Trenton Falls, p, 25 y Prospect, p. 35 y Remsen, 
p. 49y Alder Creek, p. 51/ Boonville, p. 57^ Port Ley den, p. 
77y Lyon's Falls, p. 78y Glendale,p. 86y Martinsburg, p. gij 
Lowville,p. 9iy Castor land, p. 12 ij Carthage, p. 126; Gov- 
erneur, p. 149^ DeKalb /miction, p. 15 2y Canton, p. 157/ 
Potsdam, p. 1587 Moira, p. 175; Malone, /. 184/ and 
Chateaugay, p. 199. 

* The New Yobk Centbal is Lessee of tlie West Shore, and of the Rome, 
Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroads. 



UTICA. ADIRONDACK & ST. LAWRENCE R. R. 425 

By a recent change the terminal point of the Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R., has been practically removed from 
Herkimer to Utica, thus making that city a gateway to the 
Wilderness. By this arrangement, through trains leave 
Utica only, running on the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens- 
BURG R. R. as far as Remsen (21 m ), the junction of the 
two roads, and thence proceeding over the regular line. 
(See p. 50.) Local trains only will run from Herkimer, 
going no farther than Remsen, where passengers en route 
for the Adirondacks, must await the trains from Utica, 
unless they are bound for gateways on the R. W. & O. R. R. 
Tourists coming from the E. whose objective point is 
Trenton Falls, may find it more convenient and economical 
to leave the New York Central at Herkimer and take 
the A. & St. L. R. R., which is the Adirondack Division 
of that incomparable line. 




DIVISION VI. 

THE RAQUETTE WATERS. 

Raquette River (Ind., Ta-na-wa-deh, "swift water," or 
''full of rapids"; Mas-ta-qua, *'the largest or longest river"; 
and Ni-ha-na-wa-te, "racket, noisy, or sounding river,") 
and its tributaries form the most important water system of 
the Adirondack Region. The extent of drainage by this 
river is very great. Beginning a little N. of the center of 
Hamilton Co., (its extreme source is Blue Mt. Lake) the 
river runs north-easterly into Franklin Co., thence north- 
westerly into St. Lawrence Co., passing on through Pots- 
dam to discharge its waters into the St. Lawrence, opposite 
Cornwall Island, nearly 150 m. from its fountain-head. 
"From crystal cradle to grass -green grave, its shadowy foot- 
steps glide mostly through an unbroken wilderness." Re- 
ference to a map will show the numerous important lakes 
and ponds having their outflow in this direction. These 
waters, lying in the heart of the Great Forest, have long 
possessed the highest reputation as a sporting territory, 
and are generally distinguished for their wild and beautiful 
scenery. 

Raquette, (Ind., Kill-o-guah, or Kill-o-quo-re^ ^Wayed like 
the Sun ;" also "Lake of the Great Star") is the largest, 
most attractive and most remarkable lake in the entire 
Wilderness. No engraving or description can do adequate 
justice to its charms, which are almost matchless. Its in- 
tricate net-work of bays, points and islands, 20 in number, 
with its indented shores, gold and silver beaches, and its 
frame-work of majestic mountains, form a picture of mar- 
velous variety and beauty. It may truly be called the 
pride of the forest, the empress of The Thousand Lakes. 
Its elevation is 1,766 feet; its greatest length if we follow 
its winding course, is 12 m.; its average width is about 3 m.; 
and so very irregular is its shape that its coast line meas- 



RAQUETTE LAKE. 427 

ures upwards of 40 m. The peculiar form of this lake may 
have suggested its French name, of which the word "Rack- 
et" is a corruption. Raquette signifies snow-shoe; also 
cactus or prickly pear ; and perhaps, some fancied resem- 
blance between this plant and the singular arrangement of 
the bays of the lake will account for its designation. 

Lossing and McKay affirm that the Indians and French 
Canadians in ancient days resorted thither on snow-shoes to 
kill and flay the moose then found in large numbers, and 
that thus the name originated. In the beautiful volume 
issued by the Forest Commission in 1892, appears the fol- 
lowing bit of history on this subject : 

"During the War of the Revolution a party of Indians and British 
soldiers, under command of Sir John Johnson, a son of Sir Wm. John- 
son, passed through the wilderness on their flight from the Mohawk 
Valley to Canada. It was in the winter time, and on reaching this 
lake they were overtaken by a sudden thaw which made further travel 
on snow-shoes impossible ; and not wanting to carry their snow-shoes, 
or raquettes, as they termed them, piled them up and covered them over, 
making a large heap that remained there many years. This was at 
South Inlet. On the point, beneath the great pines, the raquettes were 
deposited, and these trees, gaunt and bare, stood there until a few years 
ago, when they were used in building Camp Pine Knot. Old Mr. 
Woods, one of the pioneers, heard this story from the Indians them- 
selves, and often pointed out to hunters the decaying fragments of the 
raquette sy (See pp. 158, 165.) 

The original settlers at Raquette Lake were Messrs. 
Beach and Wood, an appropriate combination of names 
for such a region. One located on Indian Pt., the site of 
an old-time aboriginal settlement ; the other on what is 
now known as "Wood's Place." The former died in 1862, 
and the latter, after residing here with his family for 20 
years, removed to Elizabethtown, where his death occurred 
about 1868. 

Let us examine some of the most interesting environs. 

The tourist may obtain a magnificent view of a wide 
expanse of the noble lake by ascending the heights of 
"Woods' Place." Here, in a romantic nook on the banks, 
shaded by embowering trees, is a spring of deliciously cold 
water. 

It is supposed that Lake Eldon (i x i^), the forest pearl 
lying near "Wood's Place," (E.) and Raquette Lake into 



428 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

which it flows, were originally one body of water, and that 
the belt of separation, only 3 or 4 rods in width, was the 
work of beavers. 

Marion River (East Inlet), whose lily-paved surface 
furnishes immense pasturage for deer, is frequently visited 
for the purpose of 'floating," though not with as much 
success as before the advent of steamers. The reader is 
reminded that up this stream lies the route to Blue Moun- 
tain Lake, (10 m.) (See p. 405). 

The broad and deep South Inlet is the "highway" to 
several objects of interest to the sportsman. Its crystal 
waters are inhabited by the silvery denizens of that ele- 
ment, and near the landing just below the picturesque falls, 
some 2 m. up the stream, a famous spring-hole is pointed 
out (r.) where 30 pounds of brook-trout have been caught 
at "a sitting." Amid the foam and eddies of the falls also, 
angling generally meets with its full reward. The scenery 
investing this spot is replete with beauty and primitive 
wildness. {See Route to Cedar River Falls, p. 404). 

Shedd Lake (i x ^), a romantic sheet with wild and 
rocky surroundings, is reached by a carry of i>^ m. S., 
leading 1. from a point near the falls. Its inlet, at the E. 
end, up which boats may pass Yo, m., affords good trouting. 

East of Shedd L. 4 to 6 m., is Unknown L., and about 2 
m. N. W. of that is Bear Pond. 

Fonda or Sumner Lake (2 x ^) is reached from Shedd 
L., by carrying 2 m. S. E. Its waters encircle two or three 
islands and outpour into Moose R. through Sumner Stream. 
By following the line of the old "State Road," pedestrians 
may visit Moose Lake and River several miles S. E. (See 
p. 402). Fonda L. is a famous deer resort ; so is a nameless 
little pond lying near it. 

Mohegan Pond (^ x i^) is about 3 m. W. of Fonda L,, 
by blazed line. It is also accessible by a portage of 2 m. 
S. W. from Shedd L., and one of 4 m. starting (r.) from 
South Inlet Falls. Though not easily reached with boats, 
its outlet may be descended with great effort by that mode. 
It is thronged with trout of indifferent quality^ is the com- 
mon haunt of deer, and is a region of utter silence and 



RAQUETTE LAKE REGION. W. H. H. MURRAY. 429 

seclusion, panthers and other wild animals still prowling 
around its borders. A marked line leads to Eighth L. 6 m. 
N. W., and one to Bear P., 3 m. S. W. (See p. 76). 

Mohegan Pond and Shedd Lake are the head-waters of 
South Inlet ; and Fonda Lake is the source of the S. branch 
of Moose R., 8 m. S. E., by Sumner Stream. South Inlet, 
Mohegan P. and Fonda L. are within the limits of Sumner 
Park. (See p. 431). 

Up the West or Brown Tract Inlet lies the route from 
Raquette L. to the Fulton Chain, as follows : Stream, 4 m. ; 
portage, ij^ m. to Eighth Lake. (See pp. 58, 76). 

Access is gained to Shallow Lake and "Nameless Creek" 
(and to nameless quantities of the "gamiest and brightest- 
tinted trout,") by the following route, starting from the 
head of Marryatt's Bay on W. side of the Raquette, about 
6 m. above the outlet: — Pass up Sucker Brook, a short 
distance with boats; thence carry i m.; thence cross Cran- 
berry Pond, 1% m., of which this brook is the outlet; 
thence ascend the inlet to Shallow Lake, 3^ m. The lat- 
ter portion of the route is very tedious, as the stream is 
narrow, winding and shallow, and for a considerable dis- 
tance boats can hardly be floated. The stream divides on 
the way, and the left branch must be taken ; the right 
branch terminates in a dismal swamp. 

Shallow Lake, is environed by mountains of moderate 
height, and its emerald border is broken here and there by 
golden beaches. East of it a short distance is Fox Lake. 

Nameless Creek, the principal inlet of Shallow L., flows 
from two charming lakelets, each about ^ m. in length, 
"discovered by "Honest John Plumbley"and by him named 
the Murray Ponds. As it requires great exertion to reach 
them, boats rarely plough their waters, though they are 
thronged with trout. 

By pushing the boat up Nameless Creek, i m. from Shal- 
low L., and carrying r. (N. W.) i% m., we may visit Queer 
Lake, one of its sources by the N. branch. It is also 
reached by carrying 2^ m. direct from Shallow L. Queer 
Lake is actually composed of two separate bodies of water, 
respectively ^ and i ^/^ m. long, connected by a navigable 
channel. (Some have called these the Murray P's.) Here 



430 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

we gaze upon a scene of rare and curious beauty. Seldom 
does a lake present so many varied charms of wild and 
romantic scenery. It is divided into bays of singular form, 
flanked by jutting points, and the shores are frequently 
precipitous. In other places the forest claims the banks, 
often spreading its far-reaching branches over the crystal- 
line waters. Amazing stories are told of the immense 
numbers of salmon and speckled trout that have been taken 
here. {See ^.73 /or routes to Otter, Pigeon and Constable 
Ponds, Big Moose Lake (3 m?), and Fulton Chain, W. and 
S. W.) 

Boulder, or Beaver Creek, entering Raquette Lake on 
the E. side, is another trout-swarming resort. The three 
Sargent Ponds, of which this stream is the outlet, are not 
accessible by water. They are most conveniently visited 
by way of the "Carthage Road," skirting the foot of the lake. 
A pathway leads (r.) to them, starting from a point 2)^ m. 
E. of the landing. Distance from the road i m. S. E. 
The favorite route to them leads from Marion River, just 
below the " Utowana Carry." (See p. 411). 

Upon a romantic islet in the lake, styled St. Hubert's, 
immediately S. of Murray Island,* was placed a few years 
since, a unique and beautiful Episcopal chapel shaded by 
over-arching trees, the gift of the late Dr. Wm. Durant, to 
whose enterprise and liberality, the many grand improve- 
ments on the line of travel through this section were largely 
due. Here services are usually held on Sundays through- 
out the season, as clergymen may generally be found 
among the campers who will officiate. On such occasions 
the steamers will carry passengers to and from this remote 
and sequestered place of worship at half fare. There is also 
a Roman Catholic church at Long Point. 

Two pretty little steamers, the Killoquah and Irocosia, 
ply daily between the various camps and hotels on the 
Raquette, affording excursionists an opportunity to enjoy 
a sail over the waters of the lake. These also form a daily 

* This island was so named because for years it was the favorite camping- 
place of W. H. H. Murray, author of several charming volumes on the 
Adirondacks. And yet, neither lake nor mountain commemorates the name 
of him who opened the eyes of the world to this Grand Sanitarium and 
Pleasure Ground ! 




ST. HUBERT'S ISLE AND CHURCH. CAMP ECHO. RAQUETTE LAKE. 



RAQUETTE LAKE. DR. DURANT. SUMNER PARK. 43 1 

line from the different resorts named, and " Forked Lake 
Carry," to Blue Mt. Lake. Fare for entire trip, $1.75. 
(See p. 405) 

Along the picturesque banks and on some of the most 
beautiful islands of the lake, elegant villas and cottages 
have been built. Among these are "Echo Camp," on Long 
Pt.; " Camp Fair View," on Osprey {^Murray) Island; 
" Deerhurst Camp" and "McCarthy Cottage "* on Kenwell's 
Pt.; "Henderson Camp," on Indian Pt,; "Camp Stott," on 
Bluff Pt.; "Ten Eyck Camp," and "Camp Hasbrouck," near 
the outlet; "Camp Osceola," near Brown Tract Inlet; 
"Camp Otetiwi," on Big or Wood's Island, and "Camp 
Pine Knot," on South Bay, The latter consists of a 
group of model Swiss cottages (including 10 or 12 buildings) 
fronting one of the pleasantest bays indenting the shores, 
and they elicit the admiration of all who inspect them. 
Here their owner, W. W. Durant, an accomplished sports- 
man, enjoys annually his " Summerings in the Wilderness." 

On the southern shore where a beautiful beach — Mur- 
ray s golden strand \ the silver shore not far away — lends a 
special attraction to the place, were located the "Forest 
Cottages" of the noted woodsman and caterer, Chauncey 
Hathorn. Here, for many years, he gave welcome cheer to 
the highest class of patronage. His many admirers learned 
with regret, that on Nov. roth, 1891, he was found dead in 
his boat, having died there alone ! He was a most intelli- 
gent and even scholarly gentleman, though quite eccentric, 
and will be greatly missed by those whom he so acceptably 
entertained. 

"Forest Cottages," perhaps removed or going to decay, 
stand on the border and within the precincts of Sumner 
Park, a fine private preserve, occupying township No. 6, 
and portions of No. 5 This reserve, clad with virgin 
forest, and silvered by the waters of South Bay, South In- 
let, Sumner Lake and Mohegan Pond, is the property of 
Mr. Durant. No trespassing on these grounds is allowed. 

* Owned by the estate of the late Hon. Dennis McCarthy of Syracuse. 



432 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In front of "Hathorn's," in South Bay, bass fishing is be- 
coming excellent, and in the deeper waters of the lake, 
salmon trout of immense size are caught. 

Hotels of Raquette Lake, 

"The Hemlocks," is a picturesque and delightful retreat, 
on Long Pt. near the mouth of Marion R., and is the first 
landing reached by the steamer on her downward trip. It 
is situated on a bluff, amid a grove of stately pines and 
hemlocks, of silver and yellow birches and other shade- 
giving trees, and commands superb views of the lake and 
surrounding scenery. The entire establishment embraces 
three structures : a main building with cool verandas, and 
two rustic cottages. One of the latter was constructed for 
the great vocalist, Madame Gerster. Tidy accommodations 
are offered to 65 guests who receive every requisite atten- 
tion. "Charlie" H, Bennett, the proprietor, made a fine 
record, years ago, as a guide, and his laurels have not 
withered as hotel manager. The fare he furnishes, greatly 
enriched by the fresh products of his fertile little farm, 
hidden in the woods a few rods distant, has received favor- 
able notices, an<i he is worthy of the large patronage he is 
receiving. 

The telegraph and post-office are within 2 or 3 minutes' 
pleasant walk. 

Of "The Antlers,"(under the same ownership,) we would 
say as we did of "Hathorn's place," in a former edition of 
this book : — 

Those seeking a sylvan retreat which supplies the primitive 
mode of er^joying a wild-wood life — devoid of the gaiety, 
dissipation and expense that characterize the more preten- 
tious resorts ; and which, with its environs, presents ideals 
of beauty, and opportunities for sporting seldom excelled — 
will find a worthy object of their search in this most 
favored spot. This "Summer Camping Ground " has a 
lovely situation on Constable's Point, in plain view of "the 
Hemlocks," but on the opposite shore. It commands a 
broad and bewitching prospect of the sheeny waters and 
their rich surroundings. It consists of a picturesque group- 
ing of wall-tents, open camps and neat little cottages, afford- 



1 



RAQUETTE LAKE, 



HEMLOCKS. 



ANTLERS. 



433 



ing the retirement and comforts of home- life, all clustering 
around the main structure, a building well fitted with mod- 
ern conveniences. This mode of entertainment is a pro- 
nounced success, and patrons of the establishment are 
enthusiastic over this new way of camping out. Capacity, 
80. Between "the Antlers" and "the Hemlocks," so differ- 
ent in character, yet each having its distinctive advantages, 
all tastes should be gratified. We doubt whether in any 
locality of the Great Forest a more delectable spot can be 
found for a summer sojourn. The steamers have selected 




AN OPEN CAMP AT BEIGHTSIDE. 

the former as the regular dining-place. From here a wagon- 
road has been opened to Raquette Lake Station on the 
Adirondack &St. Lawrence R. R., some 12 or 15 m. W., 
where stages from this place will connect with the principal 
trains. 

A line of row-boats and carry-wagons, also runs to the 
head of Fourth Lake, there connecting with Steamer Ful- 
ton, and forming daily connection at Old Forge with the 
A. & St. L. R. R. Fare, about $3.00. (See pp. 6^, 77). 

Brightside-on-Raquette displays its trim and artistic pro- 
portions on the S. side of Indian Pt., beneath the shadow 
of numerous trees. Within and without, in finish and 

3T 



434 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

decoration, it is a piece of rustic beauty, and indicates that 
the owner and builder possesses rare skill in the art of 
building and equipment. Cozy accommodations are offered 
to 30 guests. 

From the summit of "The Crags," immediately back of 
Brightside (opposite "Wood's Place") we may witness a 
scene of singular beauty and sublimity. The fairy group 
of islands disclosed to view, apparently float in liquid 
silver, while in the near distance are displayed long reaches 
of the sloping shores whose headlands are clad in robes of 
misty emerald ; and far beyond in different directions 
looming up grandly from the interminable forests, are Blue 
Mt., Snowy Mt. and other attendant peaks. 

"Blanchard's Wigwams," is the name given to a cluster 
of nice little cottages on Green Pt., E. side of North Bay. 
This place of entertainment is well recommended, and 
receives, about 30. From here to Brandreth's Lake, by the 
old "Carthage Road," it is 4 m. (See pp. 1 19-12 1). A 
trail leads from Blanchard's to the summit of West Mt. 

"Honest Joe" Whitney, the famous guide and forester, 
also entertains sportsmen in right rural style at his Rush 
Point Camp, on South Bay, near South Inlet. Capacity, 
12. 

The P. O. of all these hotels^ is Raquette Lake, JV. V. 

"Cary's Hotel," near the outlet — one of the landmarks 
of the Wilderness — has long been deserted, and is now a 
mass of ruins. The Carthage Road" passes near, and the 
distance to Long Lake Village is 13^ m. In going from 
Raquette to Forked Lake, guides sometimes run the }4 m. 
of rapids in the outlet, but the transit is usually made over 
the pleasant portage of }4 m. 

At "Forked Lake Landing," at the terminus of the carry, 
on the site of Helms' old sporting-house, long since de- 
stroyed by fire, is an admirable location for a hotel, the 
ground, from its smoothly sloping heights commanding an 
extended view of this magnificent lake. Several years ago 
Geo. Leavitt gratified the wish of sportsmen by erecting a 
suitable inn here. But the "Forked Lake House" soon 
became the property of the "Hamilton Park Club;" and 
now the public is not entertained except with single meals. 



BIG FORKED LAKE. 435 

Big Forked or Crotched Lake, (Ind., Pah-me-chinba- 
giick^ "water right across us") is about 7 m. in length, and 
is most appropriately named. Its numerous bays and in- 
dentations, points and headlands, render it most decidedly 
forked. It is fringed to the very margin with cedar and 
other evergreen trees, investing it with weird, strange 
beauty. It is a marvel that this lake is so rarely mentioned, 
as we consider it one of the richest water- treasures in all 
this wild interior. The inlet flowing from Brandreth's Lake 
(W.) is navigable in the spring to within i^ m. of its 
source. (See p. 119). 

Little Forked Lake (2x1) may be considered an exten- 
sion of the larger lake, as the stream connecting them is 
deep and short, and has considerable breadth. It is the 
"mother lake" in miniature, and fairly sparkles with pictur- 
esque attractions. A moss-covered, rocky bluff, to the r. 
of the point of entrance, is frequently occupied by the 
hunter as a lookout for deer. By facing to the S. W., from 
the middle of the lake, a noble prospect of water and 
mountain scenery is obtainable. High Pond lies a short 
distance W. of its lower extremity. 

At the head of the lake, E. side, which is about 6 m. from 
Forked Lake House, there is a well- sheltered camp, near 
which is a copious spring. We make a note of these "nat- 
ural reservoirs," as sportsmen fully appreciate their value 
when camping out. It should be noted, however, that this 
section \<s, private property., belonging to the club just named. 
A carry leads from this camp i ^ m. N. E. to Moose Pond 
(i i^ X Yz), another noted deer resort. And from the same 
point starts the following route from 

Little Forked Lake to Little Tupper Lake: 

Portage (N. W), .... ^ miles.. 

Gary Pond (near Moose Mt.), . . . /^ " 

Inlet, ..... 20 rods. 

Portage (N. W.), . . • ■ Ji miles. 

Sutton Pond, (very pretty), . ' . i 

Portage (N. W.), . . . . ^ " 

Bottle Pond, (/^^///^-shaped), . .1 " 



43^ THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Portage (N. W.) (rough and swampy), . 2^ miles. 

Rock Pond, . . . . 2 " 

Portage (N.), . . . . • /s "' 

Stream to Little Tupper L., • • 3 " 



Total, (nearly) . . . 11^ 

[See routes from Lake Lila {Smith's L.), and Salmon Lake 
to Little Tupper^ pp. 117, 119]. 

Lonesome P. lies W., and Flatfish P., N. E. of Bottle P.; 
Mitchell P., W. of Sutton P.; and New P., ^ m. W. of Gary 
P. Blazed line from Little Forked to Salmon Lake, 
N. W. 

Plumbley Pond (i x ^), a noted deer haunt, is reached 
by a carry of ^ m., leading N. W. from a point opposite 
the mouth of the Raquette Inlet, which enters Forked Lake 
2 m. below the ''Landing." It was named from its dis- 
coverer, "John," who on one occasion won a wager from a 
surveyor, who insisted that it was one of the "prongs" of 
Forked Lake. 

From "Forked Lake House" to the outlet, the distance 
is 4 m, the outlet of Raquette L. entering about midway. 

Owl's Head, with its barren twin-domes, and the dark 
masses of other Adirondack peaks, come out in grand relief 
as we journey in that direction. Encountering the rapids 
at the outlet, voyageurs land at the r. and pass around 
them, unless they prefer to shoot them a la Murray. These 
rapids, above and below the beautiful cascade styled But- 
termilk Falls, have been successfully navigated, but always 
in absolute peril. The first portage, though a long one, 
(r^ m.) is not very difficult. A squatter living here, hauls 
boats and baggage over this, "the Long Carry," for $1.50 
per load. Thence there is boating i m. to Buttermilk Falls 
(32 ft. high). Thence we carry down a steep descent 50 
rods and then follow the stream again nearly ^ m. Land- 
ing on the r. we pass over the last portage % m. to Long 
Lake. There is a cold spring on this carry. 

Long Lake, is 135^ m. in length, and varies from a few 
rods to 15^ m. in breadth. It was formerly called "Wide 



LONG LAKE. JOHN AND MITCHELL. 437 

River," as it is really an expansion of the Raquette. Its 
Indian name is In-ca-pah c/io, or In-capach o-in-i-pus^ sig- 
nifying "Linden mere," or "Linden Sea", from the bass- 
wood formerly lining its shores. It presents a most agree- 
able variety of scenery, there being a combination of 
picturesque wildness and rural beauty. The Carthage road 
passes along the margin of the lake on the E. side as far as 
Long Lake Village (35^ m.) where it turns to the eastward. 
On this road, Y^ m. below the inlet, is the humble home of 
John E. Plumbley, popularly known as "Honest John," 
who was rendered famous by the Murray book ; and who 
is a true representative of the iron-moulded, wild-wood 
conductors. The cultivation of his farm and the building 
of boats— those graceful Adirondack crafts and beautiful 
adaptations for water-transport-— occupy his attention when 
not acting as guide. His father, Joel Plumbley, located 
here about the year 1830-1836, and was the first settler on 
the shores of Long Lake. 

Pursuing the same road 3 m. fanher we reach the vil- 
lage. 

The town of Long Lake, though embracing an area of 
440 square miles, contains a population of only about 500 
people living in the village and scattered along the shores 
of the lake for several miles. The village proper, located 
y^ m. from the lake, consists of a church, school-house, 
store, post-office, several shops, a good hotel and 30 or 40 
private houses. It was once locally called "Gougeville," 
and is the most secluded village in the State. There is no 
locking doors o'nights in this forest locked hamlet, as bur- 
glaries are never committed. Indeed, we know of but one 
misdemeanor recorded upon the archives of Long Lake 
Village ; that was the vindictive burning of a boat. The 
perpetrator of that outrage fleeing, was pursued by officer 
Smith, who, to use his own language, went into the woods 
"30 m. perpendicular after him," finally effected his capture 
in the Tupper Lake section, and led him home with a dog 
chain. 

Guiding, hunting, boat-building and precarious farming 
are the principal industries at Long Lake. 

The substantial residence of Mitchell Sabattis, the cele- 
brated guide, stands near the village. His farm is kept in 



438 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

prime condition and everything connected with the prem- 
ises bespeaks thrift and enterprise ; but yielding to ad- 
vancing age, he has retired from his regular business. 

This noble red man is of pure Indian extraction, belonging to the St. 
Francis tribe, and was born in the year 1825. at Parishville, St. Law- 
rence County, N. Y. Sterling excellence seems to be characteristic of 
his family. It has been seen that it was his cousin who revealed to 
Henderson and his companions that marvelous deposit of iron ore at the 
"Deserted Village." (See p. 344). We have several times had occasion 
to mention his father, that worthy forester called "Capt. Peter." It 
was his father who, with Natanis, befriended Benedict Arnold, and 
conducted him, with his army, through the trackless wilds, from the 
Kennebeck to the Chaudiere, in 1775, to attack Quebec. — (Lossing) 

Arnold's march of about forty days through the wilderness, at the 
head of more than a thousand men, is one of the most stupendous things 
in the annals of war. He marched through a forest more than two 
hundred miles in extent, climbing mountains and scaling precipices, 
drenched with rains, and wasted with toil, enduring cold and hunger. 
Bonaparte fleeing from Moscow, Julian retreating across the desert, and 
Suwarrow over the Alps, are wonderful events in history ; but the won- 
der would have been tenfold greater, had they encountered these perils 
and hardships in marching aftej- an enemy, instead of fleeing before 
one. — (Guernsey), 

Mitchell's sons verify the old proverb, "like father, like son," as they 
too have proved themselves most excellent men and guides. 

Nor are these the only capable guides who live in the 
neighborhood. Gladly would we favor each of the many 
residing here, with a separate notice, if space would permit. 
We cannot refrain from saying, however, that Capt. Parker, 
the redoubtable hunter, explorer, musician and modern 
"Leatherstocking," still lives at Long Lake, though ripe 
with years. 

The Lake House has a pleasant situation at the edge of 
the forest and on the lake shore, ^ m. from the village. 
The house is comparatively new, and offers peculiar induce- 
ments to those seeking a quiet resting place with many 
home-comforts, in the heart of the Adirondacks. The 
courteous host and hostess are as thoroughly conversant 
with the needs of their patrons as they are with all the 
minutiae of woodland life. Capacity, 35. 

A floating bridge spans the lake here. 

The New Sagamore, the grand hotel recently com- 
pleted, is delightfully situated on a bold and lofty prom- 



LONG LAKE. THE NEW SAGAMORE. 439 

ontory, ^ m. above the Lake House, commanding in 
either direction enchanting views of the lovely "Incapah- 
cho," with its romantic shores and mountain scenery. It 
was constructed to take the place of the less extensive and 
commodious building consumed by fire in 1889 In size 
and equipment, as well as location, it will compare favor- 
ably with the leading hostelries of the Great Wilderness. 
The household features are unusually attractive. The 
rooms are spacious and richly furnished, each affording 
sunlight, plenty of fresh air, and a charming outlook. With 
its capable management, excellent table, broad verandas, 
capacious grounds offering the usual opportunities for di- 
version, perfect drainage, pure water, telegraph, daily mails ; 
in fine, possessing as it does most of the latest improve- 
ments of a modern resort, unaccompanied by overstrained 
style, it leaves nothing to be desired by the rest or pleasure- 
seeker. It provides for 250 guests. 

Post-office of this and the hotels before named, Long 
Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y, 

The pleasantly located Grove House stands near the 
beach on the E. side of the lake, about 2^ or 3 m. from 
its head. It is a well selected site, on a sandy point, high 
and cool. The proprietor, "Dave" Helm, made an excel- 
lent reputation as a guide, and is fully capable of catering 
to the wants of guests, especially of sportsmen. He is 
always ready with boat or wagon to convey tourists to 
Forked or Blue Mt. Lake. The house is generously con- 
ducted and well patronized. It receives 50 guests. (P. O., 
Grove, N. Y.) 

The steam-yacht recently sunk in the lake, has been 
raised from the water, and will be speedily repaired or 
replaced by a larger boat. 

South Pond (2 x ^), one of the finished beauties of the 
Wilderness, lies i m. E. of the head of Long Lake, and is 
reached by road and pathway leading from a point a short 
distance S. W. of Plumbley's place. The route passes over 
a high cleared elevation which overlooks a magnificent 
landscape. Thence the path (W.) descends quite abruptly 
through the forest to the pond. Near the landing is an 
ice-cold spring. This little lake is thickly studded with 



440 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

island- gems, most picturesquely commingling, and Blue 
Mountain, majestic and beautiful, rises near its borders. 
(Trail to the summit, 4 m.) In this wild and secluded 
place, Mr. A. F. Tait once erected and nicely furnished a 
sylvan lodge (since destroyed by some vandal hand); and 
here were produced some of those exquisite paintings which 
delight so many eyes. We doubt not his genius gathered 
inspiration from such surroundings, for never was the 
studio of an artist pkced in a lovelier spot. A master- 
hand was his in throwing the fly, floating for deer, or mak- 
ing the canvas glow with life ! 

Blue Mountain Lake, 3 m. S. E. of South Pond, is 
reached from here by a "winter road" or by the route 
given on p. 412. 

Tirrell Pond, N. E., is rarely visited as it is not particu- 
larly interesting. 

To ascend Owl's Head Mountain, pass up the creek, 
entering Long Lake just below Slim Point, and nearly 
opposite the old "Palmer" place, as far as practicable with 
boats ; thence follow path leading 1. from the stream. The 
ascent is gradual and easy until the summit is nearly 
reached. The distance from base to crown is 2}^ or 3 m. 
This mountain has two peaks, both of which are rocky and 
bare. The first one we have just ascended. The second 
and taller peak is visited by crossing the depression that 
intervenes between the two. There is no beaten path, but 
the walking is not difficult, as the woods are clean and 
smooth. This peak is also ascended by following a "line" 
that starts from a point nearly opposite the Grove House. 
Few Adirondack summits command a finer view. Twenty- 
five or thirty lakes are plainly visible.* 

On the W. side of the mountain, nearly midway between 
base and summit and about 2 m. from Long Lake, is a real 
liquid gem, called Owl's Head Pond. Its water is remark- 
ably clear, its bed is composed of the purest sand, and its 
depths are inhabited by numerous trout. 

Many pickerel, but no trout, are caught in Long Lake. 

•From the "Palmer place," near Jolrn Plumtoley's, and from Shaw's Hill, a 
mile or two from the village, the tourist may also enjoy admlraDle surveys 
of lake, mountain, and forest-scenery. 



LONG LAKE AND ADJACENT WATERS. 



44 T 



Route from Long Lake to Little Tupper Lake, via Clear, 
Slim and Stony Ponds. 

Portage (W. from opposite the Lake House), 

Clear Pond (i^ x i), 

Portage (N. E ), 

Mud Pond, ... 

Inlet, . . ... 

Little Slim Pond (good camp here), 

Big Slim Pond, 

Inlet (narrow and shallow). 

Portage, "... 

Stony Pond, 

Portage (W, from N. W. shore), 



Total, 



I 


mile. 




<( 


I 




2% 


<< 


y^ 


« 


. lO 


rods. 


I 


mile. 




it 


2 




Vl 


(( 


3° 


rods. 


y^ 


mile. 


k 


(( 



loYs 



Pleasant camping places and good sporting are found on 
this route. 

Antediluvian P. lies S. W. of Stony P., and 2 m. from 
Little Tupper Lake. 

Three other lakelets lie W. of Stony Pond. 

Robinson P. is i m. S. of the W. end of Big Slim P., and 
Sand P. ^ m. S. of the east end of the same sheet. 

The three Cat Ponds are i or 2 m. N. of Big Slim Pond. 

Clear Pond is a delightful sheet, nestling at the base of 
Owl's Head. Like Round Lake, (p. 258) its pellucid 
waters, fed by mountain streams and springs, are quickly 
agitated into dangerous waves by even a moderate breeze. 

A sad misfortune once happened here. Three men shantying in the 
neighborhood, disappeared and were never afterwards seen. But their 
boat, found di-ifting along the shore, and a cap and satchel discovered 
near by, together with the great distress of their faithful dog, doubtless 
a mute witness of the accident, indicated as strongly as words, the nature 
of their fate. Their bodies were not recovered, as the pond froze over 
soon after the occurrence, and when the ice went out in the spring it was 
piled 4 to 6 ft. high on the shore. The affair was then regarded as 
quite mysterious. 

Grampus Lake is visited by ascending Big Brook (a 
stream entering on the W. side of Long Lake about 3 m. 
below the Lake House), as far as possible, carrying thence 



442 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

1^ m. to Mud Pond, and thence to the lake 21^ m.; also 
by following a road leading 4 m. N. W., from near the 
mouth of Big Brook. Boats are kept at Grampus L. 
obviating the necessity of transporting them thither. 

Handsome Pond, most properly named, is reached from 
Grampus L.; distance i m. N. Fine salmon-trout are 
taken here. 

By carrying 2 m. N. of Handsome P. we may visit Duck 
Pond. Thence it is i^ m. N. W. to Jenkins Pond, and 
from there 3 m. W. to Big Tupper Lake, by carry. 

Mohican Pond lies Ys m. S. of Handsome Pond, and i 
m. N. W. of Grampus Lake. 

Sperry Pond is probably 2 m. W. of Handsome P., and 
about the same distance N. W. of Mohican Pond. 

Sperry and Mohican are 4 m. N. E. of Little Tupper 
Lake, by carry. 

Moonshine Pond lies directly W. of Grampus Lake. 

A portage of i m , starting from a point ^ m. below the 
Grampus L. carry, leads N. of W. from Long Lake to Rock 
Pond (i X %), an interesting little lough, with romantic 
characteristics. In a pleasant spot on its shores, Mr. Haz- 
ard Stevens has erected a model camp, consisting of an 
expensive rustic log-house, suitable auxiliary buildings, and 
complete equipments. 

Mud Pond, is immediately S. of Rock Pond. 

The Anthony Ponds are accessible by boating % m. up 
their outlet, which empties into Long Lake (W. side) about 
1^ m. above the foot, and carrying thence % m. W. These 
three pretty lakelets are linked by short but unnavigable 
channels. We carry i^ m. from the first to the second, and 
% m. from the second to the third. 

From the third or upper of these, we carry ^ m. N. to 
Hedgehog Pond. 

Stages leave Long Lake Village daily for Blue Moun- 
tain Lake, 9 m. distant; fare, $1 50. Thousands of dol- 
lars have been expended on this route, and it is now an 
excellent highway. (See p. 405). 

Stages also leave for Minerva {t,t, m.) via Newcomb 
(13 m.), on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (returning on 
alternate days); whence another line leaves daily for North 



ROUTES FROM LONG LAKE. 



443 



Creek, terminus of Adirondack R. R, 8 m. Fare, to 
Newcomb, $1.50 or $1.75 ; to Minerva, $325; to North 
Creek, $4.25 or $450. 

Stages leave Newcomb for Schroon River ("Root's") on 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, (returning on the fol- 
lowing days), connecting there with daily stage to and from 
Port Henry or Crown Point. Fare to Schroon River, $1.50 
or $1.75; thence to Port Henry, or Crown Pt., $1.50, 

Stages will probably run daily over all these routes in the 
near future; also to Horseshoe Pond Station (16 m.) (near 
Big Tupper Lake) on Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R. 
(See pp. 51, 127, 339, 340, 358, 376, 381, 396.) 



Route from Long Lake Landing to the Tuppt 


?r Lakes. 


Long Lake, .... 


10 


miles 


Via Raquette River to Cold River, r., 


I 


<< 


" '' Rapids, . 


5 


(( 


" Portage to Raquette Falls House, 


^)i 


(( 


" Raquette R. to Palmer Brook, r., . 


2 


u 


" " Stony Creek, r., 


4 


i( 


" " "Calkin's," r.. 


V2 


<( 


" " Folingsby's Brook, 1, . 


aV^ 


(< 


" " "Sweeny Carry," r., 


4 


c 


" " Half-Way Brook, r., . 


1^ 


(( 


" " Great Oxbow, 1., . 


4^ 


<( 


" " "Moody's," 


2 


(( 


" " Raquette R. Settlement, 


2 


u 


" " "McBride's," (Simon R) 


I 


u 


" " Big Tupper Lake, 


I 


if. 


Big Tupper Lake, 


7 


« 


Portage, (Bog River Falls) . 


15 rods. 


Bog River, .... 


2 


miles. 


i Little Tupper Lake Stream, 


% 


u 


Portage, 1., . . . 


^ 


u 


Stream, ..... 


V2 


(( 


Portage, 1., (Road) 


i^ 


<< 


Round Pond, . . . . 


2^ 


(( 


Stream to Little Tupper Lake, . 


I 


« 


Total, nearly 


59 


miles. 



444 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Leaving the Sagamore, and paddling down Long Lake, 
we are afforded an opportunity to examine its many ro- 
mantic features. First, about midway, we shall admire 
Round Island (Ind., "The Maiden's Rest"). Robed in 
its rich dress of Norway pines, it presents a striking simili- 
tude to Dome Island, in Lake George. With Headley, 
"we would like to own that island. It would be pleasant 
to be possessor of so much beauty." A singular illusion 
characterizes Round Island. When approaching it from 
the N. it seems ever the same distance away, until it is 
very nearly reached. Other handsome islands grace the 
lake, ("Scrag," "Camp," and "Ferris,") but none possess 
so many charms as this. The scenery continues to im- 
prove as we approach the outlet, and the lake, unlike its 
southern portion, widens into a fine expanse of water. 
Some 2 m. above, we obtain a superb view of the Adiron- 
dack battlements, Seward, with castellated summits, and 
Santanoni, foremost of the host, towering towards the 
heavens in infinite majesty. 

At Buck Mt. Point, a lovely situation on the W. shore, 
nearly opposite Camp Island, 2 m, from the foot, is perched 
the pretty Duryea Cottage ; and directly across the lake 
the summer-lodge of Senator Piatt, adorns the bank. 

A company owning a well forested tract of about 4,000 
acres on both sides of the lake, and also Round Island, 
offers fine opportunities for purchasing desirable cottage- 
sites. The Haines and Woodward cottages, both very at- 
tractive, stand on this ground. For particulars, address 
Gen. Hazard Stevens, 85 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass. 

Nine miles from the village we pass Outlet, or Lower 
Island, with its picturesque shores, upon which stands the 
Island House, offering accommodations to a limited num- 
ber. 

From the E. side of the lake, opposite Outlet Island, and i 
m. below the Piatt Cottage, starts the important water-route to 
Newcomb (13^ m.) via Round Pond (^Fountain Lake), 
Catlin Lake, and other interesting sheets. 

It will be seen by following this route that the waters of 
Long Lake once had a narrow escape from mingling with 
those of Hudson River. (See pp. 377, 380, 381). 



LONG LAKE. BOWEN, THE HERMIT. 445 

At the head of a charming bay W. of the outlet, on a 
smooth, grassy bluff, within the grateful shadow of a pine 
grove, is an oft-frequented camping place. Bowen's de- 
serted clearing is immediately back of it. This place was 
formerly the abode of a strange forester bearing that name, 
whom, it is said, love and the world outlawed. From the 
little eminence, facing southward, we again survey a rich 
and impressive landscape. On the right we see Buck and 
the Rock Pond Mountains, rising with rugged summits; to 
the left, Mt. Everett (Kempshall), with verdured symmetry, 
dips gracefully to the water's edge; in front, the lake, in 
transcendent beauty, spreads away until lost in the deep 
green of the forest. Traces of the " Old Military Road " 
and the log abutments of the bridges, once spanning the 
outlet, over which it passed, are still apparent. It seems 
hardly credible that the tramp of a marching army has ever 
echoed in these vast solitudes. (See p. 112). 

Leaving Long Lake, we enter the Raquette and are soon 
floating down the noble stream.* Cold River, flowing from 
Preston Ponds, discharges its waters i m. below, and is 
here, the larger of the two. It is navigable for 5 m. when 
swollen by the freshets of spring, but only i^ that distance 
in midsummer. From its mouth to Mt. Seward it is 12 or 
15 m. through the densest and most savage portion of the 
Great Wilderness. A large part of the tract is believed to 
be yet untrodden by human foot. Verplanck Colvin, 
whose explorations in the interest of geographical and 
general science, have proved of so much value to the 
botanist, geologist and other scientists, says, in a letter to 
us in reference to this mountain : " There is no trail to 
the summit of Mt. Seward, save some blazings which we 
made. The ascent is difficult, and I have the honor I 
believe, to be the first person who ever trod, or placed a 
barometer upon the true summit. About 2^ days were 
consumed in climbing the mountain; and in the return we 
journeyed day and night. There is nothing to invite tour- 
ists to the ascent." 



* Navigation is sometimes so obstructed toy reason of shallow water and 
sand-toars, just toelow Long Lake, that the voyageur can more conveniently 
carry )^ or ^ m. 



38 



446 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Latham and Trout Ponds lie N. of, and discharge into 
Cold River. 

A short distance below the mouth of Cold R., Moose 
Creek, flowing from Duck P. (W.), enters the main stream. 
(See p. 452.) 

Reaching the rapids, 6 m. from Long Lake, we carry 
ij^ m. to Raquette Falls House. The proprietor of this 
quaint and rustic woodland inn, transports baggage over 
the portage at $1.50 per load. This location is widely- 
known as "Mother Johnson's," from the good old lady 
named in Murray's book, who was wont to treat her visi- 
tors with most excellent pan-cakes in the days of ^^auld 
lang syne.'' 

The falls, j^ m. distant, at the foot of a long reach of 
rapids and cascades, descending 79 ft., are very pretty and 
romantic, and are entitled to all the notice they receive. 

In front of the house, on a grass-green bluff, close to and 
pleasantly overlooking the river, is an old-time favorite 
camping place. 

A good path leads i m. S. E. to Dawson's Pond (5 x}^), 
a vast spring-hole swarming with small-sized trout. 

Within % and ^ m. of Dawson's P., are three other 
little ponds, nameless and unknown to the general tourist. 
They are not noted for trout, but are frequently sought by 
deer. 

A trail extends from Raquette Falls House to Folings- 
by's Pond, 3 m. W., to which the water distance is 121^ 
miles. 

Leaving '"''Hotel de Johnson^'' the scenery continues to 
improve as we pass along, growing more varied and invit- 
ing. "The Raquette, with its sandy points and symmetri- 
cal headlands, its graceful curves and majestic reaches, is 
truly a most beautiful river. The arrangement of the trees 
on its wondrously wooded and flower-decked banks is most 
perfect, and constitutes one of its greatest attractions. 
Overarching water-maples line the shore, and with a sprink- 
ling of other kinds sufficient to prevent monotony, form 
the handsome groves which ornament the vast natural 
meadows that abound near this river. Their appearance 



MOTHER JOHNSON S. RAQUETTE RIVER. 



447 



is like that of fruit-trees; and one fancies, while gliding 
down the stream, that he can see the white farm-houses 
peeping through the foliage. Two m. below, where Pal- 
mer's Brook — an exquisite streamlet, winding gracefully- 
through one of these meadows — empties its waters into the 
river, fish for trout and watch for deer," 




RAQUETTE RIVER. 

Thus we wrote in 1870, when we made our first "voyage" 
from Long Lake to the Tuppers. But a sad change has 
occurred since then ; and now a truly dismal and desolate 
scene greets the eye, where once beauty and freshness 
reigned supreme. This district, extending 10 m., has be- 



44^ THE ADIRONDACKS. 

come a "Drowned Land," whose once luxuriant forest, is 
now composed of jagged, leafless, and lifeless trunks, — 
ghastly monuments of destruction ; victims, through the 
merciless flood, of the greed of man. The dam at Setting 
Pole Rapids has wrought this lamentable devastation. (See 
p. 169). 

Six miles below Raquette Falls, Stony Creek enters the 
river from the N. By ascending this stream (3 m.), cross- 
ing the Spectacle Ponds (2 m.), and passing over the 
Indian Carry (i m.), we may visit Upper Saranac Lake. 
(See pp. 261, 262). 

To visit Folingsby's Pond (3 x ^), we leave the Raq- 
uette, and ascend Folingsby's Brook, crooked and shallow, 
i^ m. S. 

This charming lakelet was named from a strange recluse of high de- 
gree (Capt. Folingsby) who for some unknown reason, left his native 
land (England) in 1820, and sought the seclusion of the Adirondack 
Forest. Here, on the shore of this lonely water, amid these wild soli* 
tudes, he built a rude log cabin in which he lived for many years en- 
tirely secluded from his fellow-men, being almost the same as dead to 
the world; and here he finally died.* Around this singular personage, 
a sort of poetic halo has gathered. Comrades he had none, and de- 
sired none. If a stranger chanced to find his hut, he was civil, even 
hospitable, but never social. And he was as haughty as retiring, — a 
shy, reserved, mysterious man, who piqued, yet baffled curiosity. There 
were strange rumors regarding his early history; but their truth or falsity 
was never known, for one wild and stormy night his troubled spirit 
passed away. 

"One step to the death-bed, 

And one to the bier. 
And one to the charnel. 
And one — oh, where?" 

He died, as he had lived, — alone ! 

On the following day two hunters happened to call at his cabin, and 
upon exploring the place, they discovered, secreted, a strong wooden 
chest. In this were found a bundle of papers, an elegant cabinet with 
costly contents, a magnificent court-dress, a sword of Damascus steel 
with richly jeweled handle, in a golden scabbard, and, blazing with 
scarlet and gold lace, the complete uniform of a British officer of exalted 
rank. From several of his letters, it was conjectured that he was of 
noble birth, and had met with some terrible misfortune in his earlier 

»Hls name was also bestowed upon Folingsby Jr. P. of the St. Kegls wa- 
ters and Folingsby Clear P. near Upper Saranac L., where he was accustomed 
to hunt and fish. (See pp. 242, 268). 



<r— '^^' ^ 


i^B^^lK '' 


Ik 




liiiililir \C 


E 




r\ 




m 


wm 


n 


^HH, 


ImJS 


IhP '^^^Bh^p- 




^^^ 


iW^ ■ ;> 


^^ ^B^r 


4 

1 V / 




•^^■^ ^j^^f^^^^tk s 


A 


J3 




B. 




^ 








^ 








^^^^BS^- 


F ! 



FOLINGSHY S POND. IMI II.OSOI'll KKS CAMP." 449 

years ; — the lady of his k)ve may have been false to him, or the wife of 
his bosom may have (led with his friend. The h)cation of his grave is 
no U)nger known. 1 1 is memory, however, still survives in the Wilder- 
ness, and is a sid)j(.'ct for conversati()n around the camp-fires of a sum- 
mer's night. A haunted place is I^'olingsby's Pond ; and many a dar- 
ing hunter or trapper, laughing at every other peril, trembles if night 
environs him in its dreaded precincts, —| Alfred H. Street] 

In 1858 or 1859 ^ h''i>i<l of eminent literary men, comprising Agassiz, 
Emerson, Lowell, Holmes, Stillman, Wyman, Hoar, Howe, liinney 
and Woodman, established their "IMiii.osornKRs' Camt" cm the distant 
shores of this seipiestered sheet. "FoUansbee Water," writes Mr. Still- 
man in the Century^ Sept 1893, "was then a rare an<l beautiful piece of 
untouched nature." They subsequently exchanged this location for 
that of Ampersand Pond. (See p. 256), 

Folingsby's P. is still regarded as excellent sporting 
ground. 

A trail leads from the head of 1^'olingsby to Duck P., 4 m. 
S. W., from which Big Tupper Lake is reached via Jenkins 
Pond. 

Another trail leads, also from the head, to Raqtiette Falls 
House, 3 m. E. (See pp. 442, 446). 

From "Sweeny Carry," ("Tromblee's") 4 m. below Fol- 
ingsby Brook, we may reach Upper Saranac L. by travers- 
ing the pleasant portage of 3 m. (See p. 264). 

Half Way Brook, entering the Raquette, was once a 
famous trout resort. 

The "Great Oxbow" is an immense curve in the river. 
A canal, 60 ft. in length cut across here, saved a distance 
of 2 m., before the water was dammed. (See p. 169). 

There is a little settlement of several families living in 
quiet retirement on the river, 2 m. above Tupper Lake, of 
whom farmers' supplies may be obtained. From this 
secjuestered hamlet to Raquette Pond, the distance by path 
is I m.; by the river it is 5 m. (See p. 169). 

Continuing our course, and rounding a bend in the 
stream, an abrupt transition occurs, and the first fair view 
we have of Big Tupper, glistening like a sea of silver sur- 
rounded by a fringe of limitless green, is one of surpassing 
beauty. A succession of romantic islands, some rocky and 
barren, others covered with the most luxuriant vegetation, 
adorns the waters of this lake ; beautiful bays and indenta- 



450 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

tions curve gracefully around densely wooded points and 
promontories ; and mountains of moderate elevation slope 
gradually to the shore, and are reflected in the liquid mir- 
ror at their feet. It only lacks the remote mountain fea- 
tures ennobling the landscape viewed from Long and 
Raquette Lakes, to render this sheet the queen of the Adi- 
rondack waters. 

Many years ago, (about 1795,) Mr. Tupper, a surveyor, 
and his companion, ^'losing their bearings" in the woods 
in this vicinity, in their random wanderings, discovered 
this lake, and gave it his name. It bore three Indian 
titles : — Pas-kun-ga-meh, signifying, "going out from the 
river," {Raquette) j Tsit-kan-i-a-ta-res-ko-wa, "the biggest 
lake;" and A-rey-una, "green rocks." 

Tupper Lake (7 x 1^2), has two outlets within \ m. of 
each other, both immediately entering Raquette R. Take 
the 1. channel to visit Raquette Pond (Lough Neak) (2 m.), 
Tupper Lake Village (3 m.), and perchance the St. Law- 
rence, into which the Raquette discharges itself after its 
majestic passage of 150 m. To Percefield Falls the dis- 
tance is about 8. m., down the stream. (See pp. 168, 169). 

In 1870 when we entered the lake, from the outlet, we 
noticed on the left a beaver meadow of large extent, 
dotted with pleasant groves; and a conspicuous object in 
the scene was the Mt. Morris House, its attractive appear- 
ance inviting the traveler to pause for awhile at the win- 
some spot. This building is still occasionally used as a 
hotel ; but the flooding of the neighboring land has greatly 
marred its ancient beauty. 

Martin M. Moody, who established and kept for a long 
time the Mt. Morris House, has erected another resort, 
styled Camp Redside, nearly ^ m. farther up the lake, 
nestling, on a lofty bluff, at the foot of Mt. Morris, which 
lifts its stately heights from the shores. This sylvan re- 
treat is situated near Redside Brook, a pretty streamlet 
which goes cascading into the lake. It consists of a series 
of rustic lodges which perfectly represent primitive wilder- 
ness-life. The Camps are conveniently furnished. The 
beds have twisted wire springs. The table is supplied with 
the best the market affords. "Uncle Mart," our genial host. 



BIG TUPPER LAKE. 45 1 

is an old-time guide, and is as familiar with the mazes of 
the forest as a school-boy is with the alphabet. Parties 
registering their names upon his books, may expect the 
most courteous attention to all their wants. The place in 
its entirety will provide for about 60. There is a good 
supply-store on the premises. Mails received daily. P. O. 
(Moody, Franklin Co., N. Y.,) in the main house. 

Bluff Island is the most noteworthy and picturesque of 
all the 42 islands of this lovely archipelago. Its W. ex- 
tremity is a perpendicular cliff of very peculiar shape, ris- 
ing majestically 70 or 80 ft. above the water. This pre- 
cipitous rock has received the name of the "Devil's Pulpit," 
and presents a most unique appearance as it is approached 
from the west. Indian tradition informs us that " the bad 
spirit was wont to ascend this rock up the great natural 
steps on the N. side, and from its summit to preach in a 
furious storm to his followers congregated on the ice below; 
and after his sermon was ended, to slide down the smooth 
face of the precipice on the other side."* 

It is said that once a deer, pursued by huntsmen, jumped 
from the top of this "Pulpit" into the lake beneath, and 
escaped by swimming to the main-land, only to be killed 
the following year. How they knew it was the same deer 
is not explained. 

The trout-haunts in this vicinity, are Bog River Falls, at 
the head of the lake ; Cold Brook, discharging its waters 
i^ or V2, m. E. of the falls ; the mouth of a brooklet enter- 
ing Rock Island Bay, 2 m. below; another little stream, i m. 
below that, flowing into Deep Bay (so narrow is the open- 
ing connecting this bay with the main body that it assumes 
the form of a separate lakelet with many charms); three 
small brooks emptying opposite the Norway Islands ; and 
Redside Brook on the E. side of the lake ; Grindstone 
Brook, the inlet of Grindstone Bay, 2^ or 3 m. from the 
foot; and Bridge Brook entering the bay of that name, i^ 
or 2 m. above Grindstone Bay, both on the W. side. 

The above was formerly the case ; but we believe that 

*We trust that the reader will not infer from tlie several "Pulpits" credi- 
ted to his Satanic Majesty in the Great Forest that it is his usual ahode. 
(See pp. 308, 334.) 



452 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the voracious pickerel has seriously interfered with trout- 
ing in these streams. 

Gull Pond, lying at the base of Gull Pond Mt., Y^ m. W. 
of the head of the lake, is easily reached by good portage, 
and affords very fine fishing. It feeds the waters of the 
pretty little Uz Pond, which lies immediately back (W.) of 
Grindstone Bay. 

The entire length of the lake and Whiteface Mt. are vis- 
ible from Grindstone Bay. 

Bridge Brook Pond is accessible by a good path leading 
J^ m. (W.) from Bridge Brook Bay. Carry from head of 
this pond Tj4m N. W. to reach Pleasant Lake, whose 
crystalline depths are almost as transparent as air ; and 
thence 5 r. S. W. to reach Long Pond, both head-waters of 
Dead River. N. W. of that lies Center Pond, a source of 
Grass River. 

Access is gained to Sperry Pond, where excellent sport 
and attractive scenery may be enjoyed, by carrying from 
the mouth of Cold Brook 3^ m. S. E., or 2^ m. from Bog 
River. 

East and S. E. of Sperry are Handsome and Mohican 
Ponds. (See p. 442.) 

We reach Jenkins' or Merritt's Pond, by rowing up Rock 
Island Bay Brook as far as boats will float, and thence 
crossing the fair portage of 3 m., leading E. over a spur of 
Mt. Morris. From the deep and clear waters of this deer- 
haunted mere, many lake-trout are taken. 

Carry from Jenkins' P. i}4 m. N. E. to Long P.; and 
i^ m. N. to Little Simon's P., lying near the foot of Mt. 
Morris. This lakelet is very secluded, and Mr. Moody 
regards it as the best fishing locality in the North Woods ; 
nor is there a scarcity of deer in the neighborhood. Its 
outlet connects with Big Simon's P., another deer rendez- 
vous, which is reached by carrying i ^ m. N. from Little 
Simon; also by boat from Raquette R., near which it 
lies. 

From Little Simon an easy portage is made to Camp 
Redside and Mt. Morris House, about 2 m N. W. 

From Jenkins' P. we carry j4 m. S. E. to Duck Pond, 
famous for ducks, deer, and speckled trout. The primeval 



TUPPER LAKE HOUSE. 453 

forest skirting its shores, the picturesque points projecting 
far into its waters, and the mountain ranges visible from 
the spot, combine to heighten the charms of this wild little 
lake. Both "Duck" and Jenkins" command fine views of 
Ampersand, Seward, Marcy, Mclntyre and their gigantic 
neighbors. 

The outlet of Duck P. is Moose Creek which" expands, 
in one place, into a pond called " Wide Water". 

A trail leads from Duck P. to Folingsby's P., 4 m. N. E. 
(See p. 448.) 

Handsome Pond is reached from Duck P. by carrying 
2 m. S. (See p. 442.) 

Mt. Morris, the n-oblest and most prominent pinnacle of 
this section, is generally ascended by taking a path starting 
from Little Green Bay, E. side of Tupper L ; distance, 2% 
m. S. E. 

Arab Mt., a conspicuous peak, rises in the N. W. 

The W. shore of the lake is the ground usually selected 
for camping, as a number of springs are found thereabout ; 
eligible locations are also furnished by some of its numer- 
ous islands, including Long or County, its largest (i m. in 
length). Bluff, Two Brothers, Two Norways, 'Jenkins', Mink 
and Green. 

Approaching the head of the lake, we are charmed by a 
constant succession of new and varied water views. In the 
distance. Bog River Falls are plainly distinguishable, look- 
ing like a white scarf fluttering in the air. 

The Tupper Lake House, (P. O., Tupper Lake) is situ- 
ated on the W. shore, within a mile of the head. It over- 
looks the water, and with its repeated alterations and en- 
largement has become a model establishment, ranking with 
the very best in the Wilderness. Recent improvements in- 
clude sanitary plumbing, the introduction on every floor of 
pure, running water from a mountain-spring, and various 
modes of amusement. The apartments are large, airy and 
elegant. In the parlor and principal rooms, facilities for 
heating, by means of open fire-places, are always in readi- 
ness to meet the occasional wet and cold days of summer. 
A good- sized farm, and a general supply- store insure many 



454 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

comforts. The house is lighted with gas. The table and 
service are excellent. 

This hotel is the property of the ''Lakeside Club" of 
New York, who here enjoy their annual outing, occupying 
however, another building. Here, the sportsman-tourist, 
if he has no desire to taste the hardships of camp -life, can 
stop to good advantage for a week or for the summer, and 
enjoy most of the luxuries that civilization affords, together 
with all the wild-wood dainties. 

Two steam-yachts, the Altar7iont and the Adirondack^ 
leave Tupper Lake daily for Sweeny Carry, connecting with 
the steamers on Upper Saranac Lake for Rustic Lodge, 
''Bartlett's," the Wawbeek, and Saranac Inn. Fare, from 
Tupper Lake House, %\.^o ; from "Moody's" and Mt. 
Morris House, $1.25.* Also twice daily for Tupper Lake 
Village, 3 m. below the lake, there connecting with the cars 
on the Northern Adirondack R. R ; also the Adirondack 
& St. Lawrence R. R. Steamer-fare, 50 cts. from Camp 
Redside and Mt. Morris House; $[ 00 from Tupper Lake 
House. {^For various routes and points of interest^ in con- 
nection with Tupper Lake^ see pp. 167, 169, 262, 264, 266, 
270, 443)- 

It is important to know that Big Tupper Lake, formerly 
accessible only by great hardship, is now easily reached 
by these railway lines. By leaving the cars at the station 
on the A. & St. L. R. R., near Horseshoe Pond, about 4 m. 
W. of the lake, and taking the stage there in waiting, tour- 
ists who leave New York and other eastern cities in the 
evening, are enabled to take breakfast the next morning at 
Tupper Lake House. 

Stages from Long Lake, 16 m. distant, will also soon 
connect with the trains at Horseshoe Pond. 

Since the advent of the railroads and the depredations 
that usually follow, the solitude and wildness of Lake Tup- 
per have departed ; but despite this invasion, its romantic 
beauty will ever remain. 

Tupper Lake House is the most favorable of all the loca- 

*The steamers may have deen withdrawn from tJiis route since the comple- 
tion of the A. c£- St. L. R. R. 



TUPPER LAKE TO MUD LAKE. 455 

tions for hunting excursions to the famous Mud Lake 
region. Complete camping equipments are furnished here. 

_ The route to Mud Lake starts from this hotel, and the 
distance is 17^ m. Boats and baggage are conveyed from 
this point by team over the 3 m. portage to Horseshoe 
Pond. Price, $3.00 per load.* 

From the high ground on this road, a few rods from 
the hotel, a far extending lake and mountain-picture of 
transcendent loveliness may be enjoyed. 

From Horseshoe P. the route leads down the narrow 
and shallow outlet to Bog River, which flows from Mud 
Lake; thence we pass up this stream, through a series of 
ponds, termed the First or Lower Chain, and the Second 
or Upper Chain. 

The first of these groups is made up of three little beau- 
ties, which, beginning from the E., are named respec- 
tively, North, Middle, and Hitchings Ponds, all connected 
by narrow passages. They vary from ^ to i m. in length- 
their waters are deep, pure and cold, and the scenery 
around them is pleasantly diversified. Large natural 
meadows of luxuriant wild grass, and high elevations 
crowned with timber of gigantic growth, form a pleasing 
variety in the landscape. On the W. bank of North P., at 
the head of a handsome little bay, is a very pleasant camp- 
ing-spot. There is also a most suitable location for a camp 
on the N. shore of Hitching's Pond. 

A little stream entering this lochan on the S. side, flows 
from Little Trout, Big Trout, High, and other ponds, i3/ 
to 2>^ miles S. 

A carry leads from Hitching's P. to Big and Little Trout 
Ponds, about j |4^ m. S. E. 

Leaving Hitching's P., the stream is so shallow that boats 
naust frequently be "poled," and when the water is low 
they must be carried here from 30 to 100 rods. 

The Second or Upper Chain, about 4 m. above the lower 
group, is also composed of three pretty lakelets, mingling their 

•Horseshoe P. received this name from Its shape. Before the stPflrY> 
ffi^.^'^^^^^^^^x:"^ clear waters were the fi-equent resort of deer It^mi 
Fs^eeTlfr'^^ ^^^* ^^' "*^^^^^ °^ *^^ ^- ^ ^^^- K- K is in this ylcM?y 



456 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

waters by short and sluggish inlets. They are from ^ to 
Yi m. long, and their shores are bold, rocky and romantic. 
On the N. shore of the middle one, on a green cape that 
slopes gently down to the water, is a most attractive camp- 
ing-place, an excellent spring near by, rendering the 
location the more desirable. For miles above the Second 
Chain, the savage "Bog," rapidly narrowing and extremely 
sinuous,* takes its course through a low, swampy and most 
unpleasant region. This part of the route is a fitting in- 
troduction to the dismal scenery about to be witnessed. 

Mud Lake— notoriously the gloomiest sheet the Wilder- 
ness contains, noted for deer and mosquitoes — was once 
famed as the home of the now almost " mythical moose." 
It is about I ^ m. in length and its shallow waters are 
covered with lily-pads. These, together with the great 
abundance of wild grass that skirts the shores, form the 
most extensive grazing fields for deer which exist anywhere 
within the Wilderness. The ground bordering the lake is 
sometimes trodden up like the cattle yards of Brighton 
Market. From the head of the lake, a vast boggy natural 
meadow stretches away beyond the range of the eye. This 
was once the breeding-place of the moose. At the mouth 
of the inlet entering here, trout may be caught in limited 
numbers, but not elsewhere in this lake. The only suitable 
camping-location hereabouts, will be found near the outlet, 
on the N. side, in a little grove of spruce and balsam trees. 
A cold spring, almost as large and remarkable as the 
famous one yet to be described, near the head of Tupper 
Lake, is the most agreeable feature of the place. Around 
this lake, each member of the insect tribe holds high car- 
nival throughout the summer months; and at the least 
disturbance, the ungainly herons rise slowly into the air 
from their fishing in the shallows, breaking the silence with 
their hoarse, solemn, and unwelcome trumpet-notes. f 

The Silver Lake Chain, lying N. E., is reached by branch- 
ing to the N. W. from the Mud Lake route, at the third 

* Hai'vey Moody pronounced Bog Eiver, with Folingstoy's and Little Wolf 
Brooks, "the confoundedest crookedest consarns in the woods." Vide 
Street's " Woods and Waters." 

t In our description of this route, we have drawn somewhat fi'om Headley, 
Street and Hammond. 



MUD LAKE. BOG RIVER SECTION. 457 

pond of the Upper Chain, and proceeding to Fourth Pond 
but a short distance away. On the N. side of this pleas- 
ant sheet IS usually a good camp, near a never failing 
spring From Fourth P. to the Silver L. Chain, the route 
passes N. E. through Graves and Otter Ponds, through 
Silver Lake, a charming basin reposing beneath the shadow 
of Long Tom Mt. and other surrounding peaks, and then 
through Triangle and Panther Ponds, with about 2>^ m 
of carry in all. As these waters are deeply buried in the 
seclusion of the wild, green woods, they may be classed with 
the very best sporting territory of the Adirondacks. 

Route from Big Tupper Lake to Mud Lake. 

Portage (W. from Tupper Lake House,) . ^ miles 

Horseshoe Pond, . . ^ t< ' 

'' outlet, (s! W.), ' . ' . ii^ <' 
Bog River to Hitching's Pond (W.) 1 1/ « 

Hitching's Pond, . . . y ^^ 

Portage (W. around an old dam), * . ' ^o rods 

Bog River, . . . . "^ j^-j^^ 

Three Cham Ponds, Upper Group, ^V " * 

Bog River, 4>l '' 

Total, about . . . .17^ 

Route to Long Pond :—Yxom Bog River, perhaps 25/ m 
above Hitching's P., carry S. up a steep hill % m. Carry 
also from Hitching's P. 2 m. S. W. to Long Pond 



Route to Three Pound and Hornet Ponds. 



MILES. 



Portage (N. from Bog R. about midway between 

ist and 2d Chain Ponds, Upper Group), tA 

Three Pound P. (Name indicates size of its trout), ' V% 

Portage (N. E , along the outlet), . 5 

First Hornet Pond, " \/ 

Outlet (S. E ), . . * . ' * () 

Second Hornet Pond. . ' ' " ' (^ 



Total, 



^Vi 



458 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



The outlet (not navigable) of Second Hornet P., enters 
Bog R. at the spawning-bed, just below First Chain P., 
Upper Group. Its length is ^ or ^ m. The Three 
Pound, (very pretty) Hitching's and Hornet Ponds are all 
famous for fish.* 

Routes to the Silver Lake Chain. 

MILES, 

(i.) Stream (N. W. from 3d Chain P., Upper Group,) yk 

Fourth Pond, . . . . . • /^ 

Portage (N. E. — ground low and swampy), "" . ^ 

Graves Pond (Near Graves Mt), . . - % 

Portage (N. E.), ..... i 

Otter Pond, (Wedge-shaped), . . - %, 

Portage (N. E), ..... J^ 

Silver Lake (Wolf Pond), . . . . 1 }| 

Portage (N. E. from W, side of stream), . . ^ 

Triangle Pond, . . . . - V2, 

Portage (N. E. from E. side of stream), . . % 

Panther Pond, . . . . - V2 

Portage (N. to Centre Pond), ... 3 

Total, .' . . . . . 9f^ 



The Silver Lake Chain flows S. W. into Bog River ida 
Fourth P. and the portages on the route just given, as far 
as Panther P., follow the unnavigable stream connecting 
these waters. 

(2.) Carry from W. end of Second, or E. end of Third 
Chain Pond, Upper Group, Yz m. N.; cross Spring Pond 
(a vast spring-hole, with no outlet) y^ m.; carry y^, m. N. 
to Graves P.; and thence proceed as per "Route No. i." 
This route via Spring P. is far preferable to that via Fourth 
P. Boats have been carried from Second or Third Chain 
Pond through the woods to Silver Lake. The route is not 
considered very difficult. 

• Brook-trout have toeen taken from the famous Hitching's Pond weighing 
five pounas. It is said to fm'nish the hest August fishing of any water in the 
woods. A numher of years ago a speckled trout was killed at one of the 
Hornet Ponds, hy "W. W. Hill, Esq. , of Albany, which turned the scales at i)4 
Ihs. The landing of such a magnificent treasure with a six ounce rod must 
have heen the very acme of sporting enjoyment. 



VERPLANCK COLVIN. 459 

(3.) Carry from Middle P. (which joins Hitching's P.) 
4 m. N. to Silver Lake. The line curves around and passes 
over a spur of Silver Lake Mt. 

It is generally known that the Legislature of the State 
has made several appropriations for the purpose of carry- 
ing out the measure of surveying the Adirondack Wilder- 
ness'partially with a view to the permanent reservation of 
this region as a "Grand Public Park." This commission 
was entrusted to Verplanck Colvin, and right worthily has 
this indefatigable explorer, with his efficient assistants, 
performed the arduous task. The survey has been in 
progress with slight intermissions since 1872, and in this 
laborious and dangerous enterprise, hardships have been 
experienced and results attained of remarkable character. 
Often, at the risk of limb and even life, mountains, hitherto 
untrodden except by prowling beasts, have been ascended, 
measured, and occasionally named. More than 200 lakes 
and ponds, hidden in the wildest depths of the forest, here- 
tofore nameless and also unknown save to the daring trap- 
per or guide, have been visited, christened, and mapped. 
Perhaps the larger portion of them constitute the fountain- 
heads of Grass, Oswegatchie and Beaver Rivers. Many of 
them lie partially between Mud Lake and the Red Horse 
Chain. We cannot speak definitely respecting the location 
or dimensions of these newly developed lakes ; but without 
aiming at strict accuracy will make brief and general allu- 
sion to them, and withhold careful details till later editions 
of this work are issued. 

South of Second L (Upper Group) a short distance is 
Dawson P. — thus named for the veteran angler, the late 
George Dawson, of the Albany Evening Journal. N. E. of 
Graves P., probably 2 m., is Lake Colvin, so called in 
compliment to the explorer. Its deep and pellucid waters 
are imprisoned by rocky shores, and overshadowed by the 
wall-like Rampart Mt. N. E of that about 2 m., is Beaver 
Meadow P. W. of L. Colvin, say i>^ m., and N. of Graves 
P., is Lake Ely; and S. W. of that, perhaps ii^ or 2 m., 
are Darn-Needle, Little Gull and other ponds. (See pp. 
154, 156.) 

Near Bog R., about midway between Fourth P. and Mud 



460 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

L., is Spruce Grouse P.; and between Mud L. and Grass P., 
and equidistant from each, is Silver- Leaf P. N. of Grass 
P. (lying I m. N. W. of Mud L., p. 456) i or 2 m. is Fish- 
Pole P. N. W. of Mud L., in the vicinity of Cranberry L., 
are Olmstead, Simons and Addison Ponds ; and less remote 
in the same direction are Glasby, Cat Mt., Cow-Horn, (so 
named from its curious shape,) Slender, Barsout, and other 
ponds. A short distance S. W. of Mud L. is Marsh P. 
Two and 3 m. N. W. of Mud L. are Tamarack and Crystal 
Ponds. Directly W. of Mud L. 2 m. is Lost L., or Big Deer 
P. (small and shallow, but handsome); and W. of that about 
the same distance is Nick's P. W. of the latter several m. 
are the "Five Ponds" and White P. ; and S. W. 2 or 3 m. 
are Gal, West and Cracker Ponds ; and still farther in the 
same direction, and more easterly, are Toad and Long 
Ponds, Oven L. and Grassy P. N. E. of Oven L., with 
Grassy P. lying midway between, is Gull L , which lies 
nearly due S. of Nick's P. E. of Gull L , and not far away, 
are Duck, Nick's, Little Deer, and Cold Spring Ponds; and 
S. E. of Gull L , 2 m., is Partlow L. Oven, Gull and Part- 
low Lakes, and others, lie in the neighborhood of Crooked 
Lake. (See pp. 109, 149, 154, 156.) 

Several of these waters are within the limits of Ne-ha- 
SA-NE Park. (See p. 104.) 

Mr. Colvin* tells us in his very able Reports that many 
of these lakes and lakelets are very important as well as 
beautiful ; that nearly all of them swarm with speckled 
trout, true salmo fontinalis^ of wonderful size and weight, 
some of them reaching 3 or 4 pounds, and that the marshy 
portion of their shores are stamped by the feet of number- 
less deer, mingled with the foot-prints of rarer and more 
savage animals. 

******* 

Resuming the route from Big Tupper Lake and turning 
a point near "Lakeside Retreat," we do not fail to stop, 
and take a delicious draught from the most remarkable 
spring within the Wilderness. It is of unusual dimensions, 
being fully six feet in diameter, and the water bubbles up 

*We desire to express our acknowledgments to Mr. Colvln for valuable 
favors received from Mm. 



BIG TUPPER. BOG RIVER FALLS. 461 

from its bed of snow-white sand, and is as clear, pure and 
sweet as ever mortal drank. Like Headley, "we long to 
take this spring with us." From this pearly fountain there 
flows a tiny brooklet, which takes its way, with rippling 
music, to the lake near by. Right here, on two different 
points, in close proximity to each other and to this spring, 
we may note two of the best camping-spots we have ever 
seen. Half a mile farther onward, we reach the falls, 
where Bog River discharges its waters in three cascades 
over a shelving ledge, foaming and boiling in its angry 
course, until it makes a final leap into the lake directly be- 
low, as if happy to find a resting place in its peaceful bos- 
om. The views from here and from the camping-grounds 
just mentioned, are among the most enchanting we have 
ever witnessed from any spot. Nearly the entire surface 
of the exquisite Tupper is spread out before us, its islands, 
bays and mountains, lending their peculiar charms to the 
landscape. Near this place, the ancient "Military Road" 
that we crossed at the foot of Long Lake, is still perceptible, 
though overgrown with young trees and brambles. (See 
pp. 112, 445.) 

Around the falls and up the steep bank, the boat is car- 
ried 15 rods and placed in Bog River, really a beautiful 
stream, despite its name. Two miles above this portage 
the stream divides.* Up the right branch led the former 
route to Mud Lake. It included 8 or lo carries ; no won- 
der it was abandoned. Continuing our journey we take 
the left or Little Tupper Lake Stream, and within 5^ m. 
make a portage (1 ) of nearly ^ m. Along the second 
(the old) carrying place (r^ m.), 2^ m. above the first one, 
which terminates at Round Pond, the scenery is strikingly 
bold and beautiful, full of wild and romantic interest, and 
strongly resembles that of Trenton Falls, except, that per- 
fect solitude here reigns supreme. After leaving Round 
Pond the stream flows on awhile with gentle current, all 
unconscious of its future mad career. Now it reaches a 
glen and fretfully hides itself in its rocky bed, soon emerg- 
ing therefrom a mere brooklet, so small that one can easily 
leap across it ; but anon it expands into the proportions of 

* From this Junction leads a carry to Sperry Pond, 2^ m. S. E. (Page 442.) 



462 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

a river. Then it dashes down the face of a rugged ledge 
in wrathful surges, and after flowing in stateliness for a 
little distance, madly sweeps over a pavement of pointed 
rocks. Huge boulders line the way, and around them the 
maddened river whirls and turns in its furious journey 
through the ravine. The dense forest crowds itself to the 
very edge of the precipitous gorge. It is strange that 
travelers so rarely mention this romantic passage. It 
would be considered a gem in the vicinity of the White 
Mountains, or in any region renowned for natural beauty. 
In making the last portage it is customary to follow a 
road which strikes the stream below the old carry ; dis- 
tance by this route to Round P , 1 1^ m.* There is usually 
a man living here who attends to the transportation of 
boats and baggage. Price, $2.00 per load. 

From the head of Round P. a carry leads to Clear or 
Loon P. (i X ^) 2 m. N. W. Near this are Bear (j^ or ^ 
m. W.) and High Ponds, and other lakelets, (N. and N. W.) 
all affording good trouting. (See p. 455.) 

A carry also leads from Clear P. to another pond, Y^ m. 
S. W. 

Cleaving through the bright waters of Round P. [2]/^ m.), 
a sheet of rare beauty, bedecked with several pine-clad 
islands, encompassed by moderate elevations, and almost 
as circular as if traced with a compass, we enter its broad 
and sluggish inlet, mantled with lily- pads, affording an 
immense feeding-ground for deer. The stately yellow 
pond- lily raises its golden head above the water, and the 
more exquisite white one, loveliest of forest flowers, with 
its glistening leaves of crimson and green, lifts itself just 
high enough to silver the surface while the day lasts, and 
then closes its pearly scollops for the night. This stream 
courses its way through a gloomy swamp. But though the 
many beautiful things placed here fail to render it a 
" Garden of Eden," yet they array it in rarest colors which 
go far to soften and relieve its dreariness. The scarlet 
Indian plume, glowing like flame; the wild rose, ever a 
favorite; the red berried Solomon's seal; the crimson Mo- 

* This portage is estimated 2 m, Iby some, we tlilnk erroneously. 



LITTLE TUPPER LAKE. 463 

hawk tassel ; the moosehead, in its royal purple ; and the 
arrow-head displaying its triple creamy . white petals, 
charm the eye of the traveler when passing through these 
usually narrow, sinuous and alder-fringed inlets, otherwise 
the most dismal thoroughfares imaginable. The graceful 
tamarack here predominates, lining the entire passage of a 
mile, at the end of which Little Tupper lies before us, pre- 
senting with its surroundings a landscape of great attrac- 
tiveness. We continue our course up the lake, pausing 
midway to feast our eyes upon the most impressive view of 
all its scenery. Looking to the N. E. we behold the giant 
forms of the Adirondack Range, dim shadows in the dis- 
tance, rearing their heads to the clouds and looking down 
in silent grandeur upon all objects lying beneath them. 
Few of the forest waters present a greater variety of 
picturesque scenery, or have better preserved their pristine 
loveliness. The bold rocky shores of the lake, resemble 
ancient fortifications or the battlements of ruined castles, 
and islands and bays of different shapes, some with golden 
strands, give completeness to the scene. Little Tupper 
Lake, or Lake Clute (Ind., Wandah, "Lake of Light"), 
has a length of about 6 m,, and a width of about 2 m. As 
it is more secluded and less frequented than Big Tupper, 
it is better adapted to hunting purposes. 

Its most noted trout- resort is at the mouth of Bog Stream, 
(not Bog River) which flows from Sperry and Handsome 
Ponds, entering the lake near the outlet. 

Its most desirable camping-location is at Sand Point, N. 
W. side, about a mile from the outlet. 

Near by, in this retired spot, in a nook of the forest, 
stands the Hamilton House, formerly " Pine Grove," where 
wholesome fare, and pleasant and comfortable quarters are 
obtainable. Visitors to the place give testimony to the 
excellence of this remote hotel.* There is a road hence to 
Round P. I m. N. E. 

Clear P., just named, is reached by carrying i^ m. N. , 

Carry from Clear P. % or ^ m. W. to Bear P. (See p. 

462.) The latter sheet is also visited from Little Tupper 

* This liotel may liave l)een closed, as it stands witMn Hamilton Park. 



464 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

by carrying 3 m. N. W. from the large bay above the 
Hamilton House. 

Sperry P., lying N. E of the foot of the lake, is reached 
by a 4 m. carry. 

Handsome P. is some 2 m. S. E. of Sperry Pond. 

South of Handsome P. J^ m. by trail is Mohican P., also 
reached by a carry of 4 m. from Little Tupper. (See p. 
442.) 

The two pretty Betner Ponds, i^ m. apart, are accessible 
by a carry of ^ m. leading from the bay immediately be- 
low Constable Pt., W. side of the lake. They are favorite 
resorts of deer. 

Bum P. lying W. of the head of the lake, is reached by 
rowing up the inlet as far as practicable and carrying 
thence i m. N. W. 

Antediluvian P, lies 2 m. E. of the head of the lake, by 
carry. Midway this portage, a path leads to Rock P., 
I m. W. of S. (2 m. from Little Tupper). Rock P., is also 
reached by rowing up its own outlet 3 m. and carrying 
thence Yz m.* From here starts the route to Forked and 
Raquette Lakes, etc. 

From the E. shore of Little Tupper, about midway its 
length, a carry leads ^ m. E. to Stony P., from which the 
route leads to Long Lake. 

Up Smith's Inlet, entering Little Tupper from the 
W., near the head, lies the route to Charley P., Lake 
LiLA, etc. 

Carries extend to other trout-inhabited and deer-fre- 
quented ponds not far away, which, though frequently 
nameless, help to swell the number of the thousand forest- 
embosomed lakes and lakelets — rare jewels set by Nature's 
hands, — that grace this wonderful region. The faithful, 
hardy guides will conduct sportsmen to all these popular 
haunts; but in Townships Nos. 37 and 38, permission must 
first be obtained of Dr. Webb, as they are within Ne-ha- 
sa-ne Park. This is also the case with Townships Nos. 
35 and 36, as they partially lie within the boundaries of 

* Erroneously printed x m. on page 119. 




FRANKLIN B. HOUGH, M. D.. A. M., Ph. D. 

To writings of this eminent, historian, scientist and statistician, whose noble 

career through a busy life ended June n, 1885, we are indebted 

for much important information given in this volume. 



ENVIRONS OF LITTLE TUPPER LAKE. 



465 



Hamilton Park, which embraces a tract estimated to 
include 32,000 acres. 

For route from Little Tupper Lake to Charley Pond and 
Lake Lila, or Smith's Lake, see p. 117; to Salmon Lake, 
p. 119; to Forked Lake, p. 435; to Long Lake, p. 436. 
These routes lead through and near many waters adjacent 
to Little Tupper, before described. 

The Tupper Lakes, with their environment, rank with 
the most interesting portions of the Great Wilderness. 

With Little Tupper Lake terminates our tour of the 
Adirondack Region. Those who are not already advocates 
of the proposed measure for converting this Land of a 
Thousand Lakes into a grand permanent State Park, we 
opine will become such after enjoying a few weeks of camp- 
life within the charmed circle of its sublime, ennobling and 
refreshing influences. 






^^3p^~' 




DIVISION VII. 



CAMPING OUT. 

The plan of a tour to the woods should always be care- 
fully prepared, in all its details, long before starting on the 
journey, as much needless expense may be saved thereby. 
Experienced campaigners begin to mike memoranda of the 
articles needed on a woodland excursion, and to get them 
together, several weeks in advance ; and they check off 
every item personally, when packed, so that nothing may be 
forgotten or overlooked. Provisions should receive final 
attention. 

GENERAL OUTFIT FOR MEN. 

Upon this subject but few suggestions need be made, as 
taste, means and other circumstances, will naturally be 
consulted in the matter. Care should be taken to have 
the outfit light and simple. Don't take too 7nuch, and be 
sure to leave the fancy articles at home. A large quantity of 
baggage is a great drawback to the pleasure of an excur- 
sion. The comfort of the tourist, and especially that of 
the guide, will be most readily promoted by adhering 
strictly to this rule. We will name those we consider the 
most desirable and useful : — 

Two pairs of stout woolen trousers, a coat, and a vest 
(■'cast-offs"). The Knickerbocker costume, comprising 
box-plaited jacket, knee-trousers and long stockings, is 
popular with many.* 

One or two heavy dark blue or gray flannel shirts, with 
collars. Some prefer red, as they are more conspicuous, 

*T]ie " Upthegrove Shooting and Fishing Suit," (water-proof) Is Mghly 
commenaed by sportsmen ; but It Is not very warm, and if Included in the 
outfit, it should he as an extra. Remember that warm clothing here is an 
absolute necessity. 



CAMPING OUTFIT. 467 

and lessen the danger of being mistaken for deer by care- 
less sportsmen. They are certainly more picturesque. 

Two suits of under clothing. Soft felt hat, light-colored. 

Two pairs of woolen stockings. Cardigan jacket, dark- 
colored. 

Pair of overalls, for night use. Neck-tie, or ribbon. 

A pair of heavy calf skin or French kip-skin boots with 
thick soles and broad heels, about one size larger than you 
usually wear. Stout lace shoes, (not too thick) high cut 
and wide, are still better^ as they support the ankles and 
serve to prevent their being sprained. Boots, too, are 
gotten on and off wit Ji difficulty when wet. The army brogan 
is admirable. Rubber-boots are burdensome and undesir- 
able. The soles of any kind of foot-gear should be well 
nailed to prevent slipping. // is highly important that the 
feet should be properly shod. 

Pair of stout camp (carpet) slippers, or base ball shoes. 

Rubber-coat, or poncho (light-weight) — indispensable.* 
Sailors' yellow oil-cloth suits are sometimes used. They 
are water-proof but not very agreeable or becoming. 

Two lubber- blankets, of the lightest material manufac- 
tured. 

Heavy double woolen shawl, or a pair of Indian blankets. 
A bag is a useful substitute for blankets. It should be 
made of Canton flannel, or what is preferable, woolen cloth, 
as it will be less likely to ignite when exposed to fire. It 
should be about 7 ft. long and 2^ or 3 ft. wide. We have 
seen ordinary grain-bags used for that purpose; but they 
afford too contracted a space. Such a bag can be conver- 
ted into a knapsack. A light comfortable, may be still bet- 
ter, as it answers for both bed and covering. 

A pair of light buckskin gauntlets, sufficiently long to 
button around the elbows, to protect from the sun and in- 
sects. A pair of mitts, made of long cotton stocking-legs, 
will answer as a substitute. 

Colored cotton or silk handkerchief. 

*A ponclio serves the double purpose of cloak and blanket, as there is a 
slit In the middle for the head to pass through. 



468 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Head- net — a protector from insects. This should be 
manufactured out of lawn or Swiss muslin over fine steel 
bands, arranged after the plxn of a hoop skirt. It should 
be shirred over an elastic band to gather around the neck. 
This article will be found very useful, especially when 
sleeping. Have it suspended from the roof of the tent, or 
shanty, with a string and fish-hook or bent pin, at a proper 
height to enable you to insert your head. 

By purchasing one of Roebuck's Mosquito Shields, an 
admirable article, costing only $1.00, you may avoid the 
inconvenience of making one. 

A piece of Swiss mull, 3 or 4 yards square, will be found 
of great service, using it as a sort of coverlet, or placing 
it snugly over the door-way, having previously expelled the 
insects from the lodge by a thorough smudge. 

Axe, and axe-pattern hatchet (in covers). (If a guide is 
employed, he furnishes the axe.) 

Hunting-knife (in sheath), and broad belt, with strap 
.f2<{i;^<?;^^(?^ for attaching a drinking-cup A jackknife. 

Broad leather straps for carrying. A shawl-strap. 

Thirty or forty ft. of stout twine, or small rope. 

Pocket-compass. An auger (r^ inch). A few smallish 
nails. 

Toilet-soap, towels, pins, needles, thread, buttons, writ- 
ing paper, plain and stamped envelopes, pens, ink, postal- 
cards, postage-stamps, pencils, etc., in limited quantities. 

Candles, candlestick, and matches ; the latter in a large- 
mouthed bottle. 

Comb, tooth-brush, razor, strop, lather-brush, and pocket- 
mirror. 

A guide-book and pocket-map of the Adirondacks. 

Hospital-stores, including bandages, lint, ointment, lini- 
ment, glycerine, collodion or court-plaster, peppermint, 
spirits of camphor, aqua-ammonia, soda, cholera drops, 
rhubarb or cathartic pills, quinine, Jamaica ginger, insect- 
preparations, &c., to use in case of emergency. Plainly 
label every vial, and package^ and put them in a miniature 
medicine-chest which is divided into pasteboard compart- 
ments to keep bottles in position. 



CAMPING OUTFIT. 469 

Cooking-Utensils and table-service, which should com- 
prise : — 

Tinned plates; half-pint tin cups; basins; and a dipper. 
Cheap knives and forks ; carving-knife and fork. Tinned 
iron table-spoons with long handles; tinned tea-spoons. 
Two light iron frying-pans with long removable handles ; 
large tin stew-pan with cover; two deep baking-pans; tin 
coffee pot which should have a nose or lip (not a spout) 
riveted on, and a bail. A two-quart, three-quart, five-quart, 
eight- quart and ten-quart tin pail, with lids or covers. Tin 
pepper-box; can opener; pancake- turner ; soap; several 
pot-hooks with short chains attached ; dish-towels. 

Take a cup, a plate, and a tea-spoon for each person, 
and 3 or 4 extra. The hollow dishes should be seamless, 
and of graduated sizes, so as to nest as much as possible. 

The "Patent Sportsmans' Kit" and "Dunklee's Camping 
Stove" are very useful to the camper. In either of these, 
the cooking- ware is packed in nests, and the aggregate weight 
is only from 15 to 25 lbs. 

The following may be classed as the useful non-essentials: 
Dutch oven or baker; one or two haversacks; ham- 
mocks. 

Pair of goggles; canteen; collapsing drinking- cup. 

A hand-saw; paper of 10 oz. tacks; tack-hammer; pair of 
scissors; pair of side-cutting pinchers; roll of small wire; an 
awl, and a gimlet ; a folding camp-bed. 

A lantern ; kerosene, in tin- can ; wicks. 

A little mixed white paint and a few copper nails, with 
which to repair boats in case of accident. Pieces of 
leather. A large sponge for wiping out boats. 

A knit sleeping-cap (a silk traveling-cap will answer); 
oil-cloth cover for hat; havelock; water-proof boot-grease; 
canvas or rubber leggins, or high boot-tops with straps; 
a rubber navy-bag, to hold the kit. 

A pack of cards and a few choice books will be found 
entertaining on rainy days. 

A rubber air-pillow, or a canvas case, which may be filled 

40 



470 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

with leaves of balsam, spruce, pine, &c., making a most 
healthful head-rest. 

A full piece of mosquito netting. Pocket alcohol- stove. 

All the articles enumerated, with the exception of the 
baker, axe, hatchet, saw, auger, cooking-utensils and 
blankets (which may be strapped together), can be packed 
in a common enameled double satchel. A knapsack is 
much more desirable and should be used when it can be 
procured.* 

SPORTING OUTFIT. 

One rifle or shot-gun (in a leather case), breech-loader 
if convenient. For general use, a shot-gun {^double barreled^ 
is preferable. One gun ought to suffice for a party of two 
or three. f 

Lyman's Patent Gun Sights are invaluable to hun- 
ters. 

Supply of necessary ammunition. Would suggest, 50 
loaded shells. 

One fly-rod, single-handed, three-jointed. We recom- 
mend a light one — say five to eight ounce. In material and 
workmanship, the Leonard "split bamboo"t is regarded 
the sine gua non among fly-rods. The Divine split bamboo, 
seems also to have nearly all the requisites of a perfect 
rod. There are others of perhaps equal excellence. 

Wood's Herculean Ferrule Cement will be found 
very useful in repairing a broken rod. 

One metallic or rubber reel. The "Automatic Reel" is 
a wonderful piece of mechanism, being manipulated en- 
tirely by the hand that holds the rod, and is largely used. 
No. 1 is the proper size. 

* Now don't tMnk it is necessary to take all tlie articles named. Use good 
judgment, and select carefully from our list, according to circumstances. 

It need not te said tliat the selection of a number of tnese articles should 
1)6 governed Iby the length of the campaign in prospect. 

tThe Winchester Repeating breech-loading rifle, a most superb 
weapon, carries evjhteen charges which can he fired in nine seconds. 

The "Hollenbeck " is said to toe the toest and cheapest nammerless gun 
made. 

fin the Calcutta l)ctml)oo, strength, lightness, and that steely spring 
which is the acme of perfection In a fly-rod, are found to a degree unequaled 
in any other known material."— (Wells.) 



"1 




I 



ONE OF NATURE'S NOBLEMEN, REUBEN WOOD. 



CAMPING OUTFIT. 



471 



The "Expert" is said to be the best cheap reel in the 
market. Take No. 19. These, and others of similar char- 
acter, are greatly superior to the old patterns, and are 
being generally adopted. 

For flies, make a selection from the following standard 
list : 

INDISPENSABLE. VERY GOOD. 

"Reuben Wood,"* 
Scarlet Ibis, 
Abbey, 
Grizzly King, 
Coachman, 
Yellow May, 
Seth Green, 
Brown Hackle, 
Marston's Fancy, 
Light & Dark Fox, 



Green Drake, 
Professor, 
Montreal, 
White Miller, 
March Brown, 
Black Gnat, 
King of Water, 
Queen of Water, 
Royal Coachman, 
Parmachene Belle, 



Soldier, 
Brown Coflin, 
Silver Doctor, 
Lake George, 
Beaver Kill, 
Cow Ordure, 
White Hackle, 
Red 
Grey 
Black 



The " Mullaly " fly, in which the bend and barb of the 
hook are concealed beneath the wings, forming a most 
effective lure, has been in high repute. We think it has 
gone into disuse. 

One-fourth doz. each of 7 or 8 kinds of flies will be suf- 
ficient. (Don't forget the fly-book.) 

The accomplished angler and high-minded gentleman. 
Judge A. J. Northrup, author of that delightful volume, 
" Camps and Tramps in the Adirondacks," after his 
great experience in fly-fishing, asserts that if he could have 

*Named from its originator, Eeut)en Wood, who was master of every de- 
partment of "the gentle art," and who held annual revels with the rod and 
reel for half a century. His favorites among flies, were the scarlet ihis, hlack 
gnat, brown coflin and "R. W." 

A TEIBUTE TO BEUBEN WOOD. 

A writer signing himself "T. W. P." in Land and Water, an English puhli- 
catlon, pays this tribute to the late Reuben Wood of Syracuse : "I wonder, 
by the by, whether 'The Tarpon Slayer' is any relation to that dear old 
American angler and prince or fly casters, Reuben Wood, who was with us 
through the time of our flsheries exhibition. It seems only yesterday since 
he slept under the very roof which now shelters my own head from a splen- 
did and most May-like shower of hailstones. And now, alas ! he sleeps un- 
der the green, mossy .turf, whose every blade of grass he loved with the 
sweet simplicity of a guileless heart. It is no exaggeration to say that every 
Englishman who had the pleasure and honor to know 'Uncle Rube', loved 
him alike for his simplicity of nature, envied him good-naturedly for his 
wonderful skill with the fly-rod, and honored and respected him for his ster- 
ling qualities as a sportsman. 



4/2 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

but two flies, his choice would be the ''^Reuben Wood'' and 
brown hackle. 

Fly-fishing has become a fine art; but let not the use of 
bait be too severely condemned, as by that method the 
fisher frequently succeeds, when he fails with the fly. 

A very superior device for entrapping the wary trout and 
other fish is Wood's Patent Trolling Outfit, consisting 
of 170 ft. large braided line, and a Canandaigua Lake 
spoon and sinker. If not found on sale at the fishing- 
tackle stores it may be obtained by addressing Reuben 
Wood's Sons Co., Syracuse, N. Y. Price, 50 cts. each, sent 
post paid.* 

One doz. fish-hooks, running from No. i to 3, Limerick 
size. (The Aberdeen, Carlisle, Sproat, and Sneck hooks 
have nearly superseded the Limerick.) 

For bait-fishing at the buoys, take with you about two 
dozen good- sized, short-shanked hooks, with cream colored 
snells firmly attached to them. Bait-box and belt. 

Two or three braided-silk water-proof lines, assorted 
sizes. One trolling line. Six extra 2 yard trout-leaders. 
Landing-net, with ratan frame. Trout-basket and sling. 



OUTFIT FOR WOMEN. 



how to dress in camp. 

There can be no better dress for women than a blazer, 
or Eton costume of strong, storm serge, with the skirt a 
little shorter than for ordinary wear. This suit affords 
perfect freedom of motion. With this, a light weight flan- 
nel, and one or two silk or cotton shirt-waists, will make 
sufficient changes. Of course this costume may be made 
as cheap, expensive, or ornamental as the owner pleases. 

* George B. Wood and Charles W. Wood, sons of the late lamented Reuben 
Wooa, under the name of Keutoen Wood's Sons Co., will supply their brother 
anglers with all the minutiae of lines, flies, rods and other taclcle, at No. 324 
S. Salina St., Syracuse, N. Y. Their assortment is always complete in all its 
details. 



CAMPING OUTFIT. 473 

If made of gayly colored materials, the wearer will present 
a picturesqueness perfectly suited to the region.* 

Gymnasium dresses are very suitable for mountain ex- 
cursions.! 

The outfit should include the following articles : 

Two suits of flannel under-clothing. Flannel night-dress. 

Three pairs of woolen stockings. Thick red, or dark 
petticoat. 

Buckskin gauntlets, with armlets of firm cloth, or sheep 
or chamois skin, long enough to button at the elbow. 

Strong, loose gloves. Broad-brimmed, soft felt hat. 

Leather lace, or button boots, roomy and broad, with 
thick soles. Boys' canvas base-ball shoes are worn with 
great comfort. They are broad, thick, and cool. It is 
advisable to have both kinds, because a thorough drench- 
ing is not infrequent in mountain tramping. 

Rubber overshoes. Rubber-boots, ad libitum. Stout, 
warm slippers. 

Gaiters, or heavy cloth, or leather leggins. Fur cape, 
or woolen shawl. 

Mcintosh, or water-proof cloak, and cap. 

Air-pillow. Head-net. (See p. 468.) A well filled dress- 
ing case, containing soap, brushes, and other necessary 
toilet-articles. 

For various items that may be needed, consult the men's 
list. 



* Bret Harte's eldest daughter, Jessamy, makes her literary aebui in the 
Laaies' Home Journal in a most graphic article descrihing lite in an Adiron- 
dack camp. She says :— " Crimson is a picturesque color for the feminine 
camping-dress. A very striking costume for a young lady is a short kilt 
skirt, a little ahove the ankles, of some hlue material ; a short, hlue corduroy 
velvet jacket, hlue and white striped tennis skirt, russet leather leggings 
and Dig red felt sombrero. The men's get-up varies little from the ordinary 
mountain garb— short corduroy velvet shirt and leather leggings. The 
latter are essential both for girls and men on account of the enormous 
amount of underbrush one encounters. You cannot imagine how pictur- 
esque these costumes look around the roaring camp-fiLre in the evening, or 
in groups on the shores of some beautiful lake." 

t In mountain climbing, the pedestrian should always proceed with great 
moderation ; else there is no enjoyment and but little safety. None should 
attempt it but those of good health and sound lungs ; and then the dress 
should be perfectly adapted to the service. 



474 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

INSECT PREPARATIONS. 

The following mixtures will generally afford ample pro- 
tection from mosquitoes, black flies, punkies, etc. Nos. i, 
2, and 14 we have found perfectly effective, as well as 
agreeable and healing. They are white, pure and whole- 
some, and will not stain the skin. They are infallible even 
where tar and other mixtures fail. Formula No. 4 is ex- 
tensively used by travelers in South America, where insects 
are most numerous and poisonous : 

No. I. — One-half oz. of oil of pennyroyal poured into 

3 oz. of melted mutton tallow. Lard is sometimes used, 
but it is too soft and is not as healing. 

No. ^2. — Six oz. mutton tallow, 2 oz. camphor- spirits, 2 oz. 
oil of pennyroyal, ^ oz. creosote, or carbolic acid solution. 

No. 3. — Four oz. olive oil, 2 oz. oil of tar,*^ oz. oil of 
peppermint. 

No. 4. — One oz. carbolic acid solution, in 3 oz. melted 
mutton tallow; or 10 drops of the solution in a spoonful 
of water. 

No. 5. — Common petroleum is said to be perfectly effica- 
cious. We have never tested it ; but we fear the "remedy 
would be worse than the disease," as the odor is as offen- 
sive to man as to insects. It is applied by dropping it on 
a piece of cotton, which is squeezed out as dry as possible, 
and then rubbed over the face and hands. 

No. 6. — Four oz. glycerine, 2^ drs. oil of peppermint, 

4 drs. spirits of turpentine. 

No. 7. — Two oz. oil of tar, 1 oz. spirits of camphor, 4 oz. 
castor oil. 

No. 8. — Two oz. oil of sweet almonds, i oz. oil of penny- 
royal. 

No. 9. — Two oz. oil of cedar, 2 oz. olive oil. 

No. 10. — Two oz. common tar {not oil), 2 oz. olive oil. 
Thin with glycerine. 

No. II. — One oz. carbolic acid, 3 oz. glycerine. Also 
excellent for burns, cuts, bruises and ivy poison. 

* Tar, although it has a disagreeable odor, Is very healing, and makes the 
skin as soft as satin. 



I 



THE CAMP. 475 

No. 12. — One dessert-spoonful oil of tar, i teaspoonful 
oil of pennyroyal. Put this in a half-pint bottle, and cut 
it with a little alcohol. Then fill the bottle with kerosene 
oil. This is called the ^^Sportsmans Infallible.'' It ought 
to be a dead shot. 

No. 13. — Three parts olive oil, 2 parts oil of pennyroyal, 
I part glycerine, i part ammonia. 

No. 14. — Three oz. melted mutton tallow (or olive oil), 
I oz. spirits of camphor, i oz. oil of pennyroyal, i^ oz. ori- 
ganum, }l oz. glycerine, 5 drops carbolic acid. 

No. 15. — Glycerine and olive oil, each 2^ oz., oil of 
amber, 3 dr., oil of pennyroyal, 2 dr., tincture of iodine 
and carbolic acid crystals, each i % dr. 

No. 16. — Four oz. vaseline, ^ dr. carbolic acid. Melt 
and mix thoroughly. Vaseline will not get rancid, and is 
healing. This is an old western hunter's ''infallible.'' 

No. 17. — Quassia water (made by pouring boiling water 
on quassia chips) is quite effective. Bathe the face and 
hands often in the solution. 

No. 18. — One oz. oil of pennyroyal, 2 oz. castor-oil, 3 oz. 
of pine-tar. Let this boil gently over a slow fire. When 
sufficiently cool, pour the mixture in a large-mouthed 
bottle. 

No. 19. — Three oz. olive oil, i oz. oil of tar. 

The marvelous preparation called "Lollacapop"* is a 
positive antidote, and is sold all over the United States, 
and even in foreign countries. 

With any of these mixtures, carefully anoint every exposed 
part, and renew the same as soon as the odor begins to 
decrease. 

Burning camphor-gum will sometimes expel mosquitoes 
and other insects. 

Aqua-ammonia (hartshorn) is an excellent article for 
reducing the blotches and allaying the irritation caused by 
insect stings. 

'Manufactured by Reuben Wood's Sons Co., Syracuse, N. Y. 



476 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Ammoniated opodeldoc ; also chloroform-liniment, are 
highly recommended for this purpose ; likewise, Pond's 
Extract of Witch Hazel. 

Frequent applications of a weak solution of bi-carbonate 
of soda will also allay the itching and smarting sensation 
usually experienced. 

Applications of a mixture of lo drops of carbolic acid, 
(refined) and i oz. of rose-water, will have an excellent 
effect. 

In the early evening, when punkies are the most officious, 
it is customary to expel them by making smudges, on the 
windward side of the camp. This is done with small heaps 
of chips and bark, or better than all, /?^;z^/, partially ignited 
and smothered with turf or damp leaves, — causing a suf- 
focating smoke. Do not let the fire blaze up and endanger 
the camp and woods. 

THE CAMP. 

When a "Lodge in the Wilderness" is to be constructed, 
it should be remembered that wood, water, and freedom 
from insects, are the three great requisites. First, select a 
pleasant spot on a lake or stream, and near a good spring, 
if possible. These locations, if well-chosen, possess the 
charms of wild and often noble scenery. In the absence of 
a spring, the purest and loveliest trout-brooks await us 
everywhere. The site should be on a smooth knoll, or 
gentle slope, high and dry, so as to afford good drainage. 
Do not locate the camp at the base of a hill* on low ground, 
which may be inundated in a heavy rain-storm, or near 
dead or decaying trees which may fall and endanger life, or 
in forest so dense that it will exclude the sunshine. Is- 
lands, when available and suitable, are sometimes chosen 
for camping-grounds, as they are much less frequented by 
insects than the main-land. The lodge should be erected 
on a point, so that the wind may sweep away these pests. 
When the location is secured, and the spot cleared of un- 

*Sometlmes a trench is dug around the camp to provide for a sudden 
flood ; but tills necessitates adding a hoe or garden-trowel to the outfit. The 
jol) can he done with a hatchet. 

A small trench around the fire will prevent it from spreading, and will 
also serve to protect It from wat«r. 



THE CAMP. 477 

derbrush, drive two sharpened crotched sticks, 7 or 8 ft. 
long, into the ground from 6 to 12 ft. apart, according to 
the size required. Between these, place a stout cross- 
piece, fastening the ends with rope or withes securely to 
the forks of the uprights. On this, place the tops of from 
6 to 10 poles of sufficient length to make the inclosure 8 ft. 
deep ; the other ends resting on the ground, or what is 
preferable, a large log. Spread upon this frame- work large 
sheets of bark peeled from spruce-trees,"^ taking care to 
lap the edges so that water will not be admitted. Place 
bark, or bushes also at the ends of the shanty, and keep in 
position with upright poles, leaving the front open, like a 
shed. Spruce is the most desirable tree for camp-building.f 

A dining-room and a kitchen, simply bark canopies sup- 
ported by posts and not inclosed, may be easily erected. 

Tables are usually made by driving 4 forked sticks into 
the ground for legs, and covering the cross-bars with large 
pieces of smooth bark. 

*EuLES FOR Summer Campers, Issued hy The Forestry Commission. 
These rules must he ohserved or arrest will follow :— 

All hunters, fishermen, loggers, guides, tourists and others, lighting fires 
In or near the forest, for cooking, warmth, insect smudges or other purposes, 
must clear away all comhustihle material from within six feet of the place 
where fire is to be kindled, and must thoroughly stamp out, drench, or other- 
wise extinguish any such fire upon leaving it, either temporarily or perma- 
nently ; and hunters using firearms with inflammahle wadding are hereby 
cautioned against allowing fires to start from such causes. 

Smokers are cautioned in regard to fires arising from any carelessness of 
theirs, and their attention is called to the penalty for negligence in causing 
fires. Parents and teachers are respectfully requested to instruct children 
to avoid lighting fires in the forests or exposed places. 

Peeling standing trees of their MrTc/or covering camps or shanties is here- 
by prohibitea. For such purposes the tree must be jelled and all the available 
baric removed therefrom before another tree is cut down. The trees thus felled 
must be utilized for fire- wood, and such fallen timber as lies in the vicinity of 
the camp must also be used for fire- wood before any green standing timber is 
cut for that purpose. 

Such Eules, even if not enforced, should be strictly regarded 
when camping out, for the safety of the camp and the forest. we havc 
known a fire to burn invisibly under the vegetable soil for several days, and 
then to burst forth with dangerous power. 

+lf you find a camp unoccupied, but apparently not abandoned, it is al- 
lowable to use it temporarily, or until the occupants return ; but you should 
observe and respect the "law of the woods": 

^^AU sportsmen welcome to its use, 
But not abuse." 

Theft is rarely committed in the camps. 



478 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

With the axe and auger, comfortable rustic seats may be 
made for general use. A piece of burlap will be found 
very useful in making chairs. 

The camp, and the several articles of furniture com- 
pleted, we next turn our attention to a bed which is thus 
prepared : — Beginning at the rear of the cabin we push the 
butt-ends of balsam branches, i or 2 ft. in length, closely 
into the, ground at an angle of 45 degrees, leaning toward 
the head. These we "feather" with smaller branches of 
balsam or hemlock. The flat delicate sprigs of the grace- 
ful silver- fir {abies balsamed) form the best bedding used in 
the woods. We do not use spruce, as we would be un- 
comfortably pricked. The small flat twigs of cedar are 
far preferable to that. Upon this we spread a rubber- 
blanket (black side down), and a woolen blanket on that. 
We now have an elastic and a healthful couch, medicated 
with the rich, fragrant, and agreeable aroma of the ever- 
greens, and fit for the lodging- place even of those of 
hixurious habits, not to name the weary woodsman, on his 
return from a long row or tramp. 

A good camp-bedstead is built by placing the ends of 
small poles closely together upon two parallel bgs, driving 
a stake at each corner. Spread over this a layer of hem- 
lock, balsam, or cedar browse for a bed. Over this bed- 
stead a mosquito canopy may be placed to good advantage. 

We have tested, with satisfaction, a camp-bed recom- 
mended by the Trappers' Guide, which is made by sewing 
firmly together two strips of canvas sacking, about 6^ ft.- 
long and 2^ or 3 ft. wide, forming a bag with both ends 
open. Cut two poles, each 7 ft. long and about 2 inches 
in diameter, and run them through the bag, resting the 
ends in notches on two parallel logs. Then fill the bag 
with leaves, or the finest balsam or hemlock browse. Some 
omit the filling. This bed affords a good circulation of air 
and the occupant is rarely molested by creeping insects. 

Tents* are preferable to shanties, as far as insects are 
concerned, for they can be completely closed, thus shutting 

*We would advise every party to include in their outfit an "A" tent (water- 
proofed, if convenient) not weighing over 10 lbs. A large party would require 
a wall-tent. 



THE CAMP. 479 

out these noxious intruders. By placing a tent upon a log 
pen, about two ft. high, you are enabled to stand erect 
within it. Sparks from the camp fire may ignite the tent 
unless closely watched. 

A simple shelter-tent may be easily made by driving 3 or 
4 small poles in the ground at a suitable angle, lashing 
another pole to the upper ends transversely, and then 
spreading a rubber-blanket over the whole. 

About 8 or 10 ft. from the front of the tent or shanty we 
have a huge and cheerful camp-fire, (kindled with birch- 
bark) in constant operation. This produces a weird and 
brilliant spectacle. "The light shoots up among the tall 
trees, turning them into stately pillars, upholding a magni- 
ficent and interminable dome." Unrestricted by the con- 
ventionalities of the city, with fire-wood never scarce, and 
plenty of provisions, we are perfectly independent, and 
enjoy in the fullest degree the charms of forest-life. An 
old campaigner remarks that "the angler's camp should be 
a sylvan abode of perfect bliss." It has many times seemed 
thus to the writer. 

Do not lose your patience while camping out. The fret- 
ful temper of a single camper will often mar the pleasure 
of the entire company. Never find fault under any cir- 
cumstances. Always view the situation with a philosophic 
eye. The man who cares supremely for himself, without 
regarding the comfort of others, is not wanted in the 
woods. 

Remember to rest one day in the seven, and let that day 
be the Sabbath. 

Sanitary rules should be carefully observed. Absolute 
cleanliness should never be neglected. All refuse should 
be burned or buried. If thrown into a sink-hole, it should 
be partially covered with earth. The ground in front of 
the cabin should be daily swept. A bunch of birch twigs, 
\ attached to a sapling-handle, will make a suitable broom. 
Do not forget to thoroughly air the blankets and other 
bedding every morning, on a clothes-line ; not on the 
ground. Then fold and place them in the rear of the 
lodge. 



480 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In reference to medicines, toilet-articles, and kitchen- 
utensils, observe the good old household rule: "Have a 
place for everything, and keep everything in its place." 
"Order is Heaven's first law." 

Have constantly ready a good supply of wood, together 
with dry leaves, birch bark, or other kindling, for fires on 
Gool nights and in rainy weather. Don't omit those large 
back-logs. Wet days may be devoted to reading and writ- 
ing ; also to repairing {not paying) rents. 

Butter may be kept cool and fresh, by immersing the 
vessel containing it in a spring or brook. Pork and meat 
(well-salted) may be preserved in the same way. 

WHEN TO CAMP OUT. 

The months of May and June, while they afford the best 
trolling and bait-fishing, are objectionable on the score of 
wet and cold weather and the great prevalence of insects. 
In leafy June especially, the pearl of the seasons, the black- 
fly, that beautiful tormentor, appears in amazing numbers ; 
but the last days of the month, or the first ones of the next, 
witness iheir partial disappearance.* Mosquitoes and 
punkies, too, rapidly depart at the same time; hence, July 
and August are the favorite months for camping out. 
Through the period comprised in these months the woods 
are usually dry, and the climate delicious. Fly-fishing at 
spring-holes, and jack or shore-hunting for deer, are also 
most excellent at this season of the year. 

To the writer, the last days of September and the first 
ones of October are replete with delight. A more agree- 
able season to the tourist or sportsman can hardly be im- 
agined. Then the insects have disappeared; the air is 
pure, cool and bracing, encouraging exercise ; while the 
forest is rich in autumnal beauty, and the mountains are 

*Tlie black-ny (Lat., Simulium molestum) is the common fly in miniature. 
It is of very dark color and about 1-12 of an incn long. 

The punky (Lat., SimwZiz*m noDicwm,) is a minute, dipterous insect; in 
fact, so very small, that the Indians are justified in calling' it, ''no-see-em:' 
To the enterprising mosquito, the reader needs no introduction ; hut with 
all its importunities, it is a far less formidahle pest than the hlack-fly. 

All these insects cease to annoy us Ibefore midnight, hut resume opera- 
tions in the early morning. 



CAMP LIFE. THE COMMISSARIAT, 481 

transformed into magnificent bouquets — presenting one 
blaze of gold, scarlet and vermilion. 

We trust the reader will not infer from anything preced- 
ing this, that in the Wilderness, deer and fish may be had 
at the asking and without effort. Care and skill are requi- 
site in obtaining them ; but when provided with compe- 
tent guides, no party need experience a scarcity of trout 
or venison while sojourning in the "North Woods." Be 
careful, however, to observe the Game Laws.* {See a fol- 
lowing page.) 

PROVISIONS. 

Supplies of all kinds, as heretofore frequently noted, may 
generally be obtained at the different hotels. For the in- 
formation of those who prefer to carry their own provisions 
we will here give a list of articles, such as we should select 
for our own commissariat. 

Flour (white and Graham), Indian meal, oatmeal, Boston 
crackers, baking-powder, pork, beans, maple sugar, granu- 
lated or cut loaf sugar, tea, coffee, pepper, salt, dried fruit, 
canned fruit (possibly), butter, and Borden's condensed 
milk. 

Selover's "Self-Raising Flour" (Prof. Horsford's process) 
we have found an excellent article, being both convenient 
and healthful. It is ever ready for use, and soda, cream 
of tartar and baking-powders, are not needed when that is 
used. It is manufactured in various forms, including white, 
Graham and buckwheat flour, and Indian meal. It maybe 
procured of your grocer, or of John Y. Selover, Auburn, 
N. Y. 

Coffee and tea are best kept in tin-cans. 

Most of the above named articles should be put in rub- 
ber or canvas-bags, carefully labeled. They should have 
tie- strings attached, and stout loops of tape, by which to 
hang them up ; and all these small bags should be carried 
in grain, or large rubber-bags. Include several extra 
canvas-bags, different sizes. 

* Under the protecting care of the State the decline of trout and deer has 
heen happily arrested. They are much more plentiful than they were 5 
years ago. 

41 



482 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Indian pack-baskets, provided with oil- cloth covers, are 
most useful in carrying supplies over the portages. 

The list of provisions herewith appended contain ample 
variety for the camper's larder. Of course these may be 
varied according to inclination or circumstances. The 
average quantity of food a man requires daily in the woods, 
about 2% lbs., as given in ^'' Table No. 3," (people have re- 
markable appetites there ;) is founded on the writer's ex- 
perience of twenty-five years. By multiplying the several 
figures by the number in the party, and this result by the 
number of days to be spent in camp, you will learn how 
much is required for a given period. In preparing a list of 
supplies, you should always estimate regardless of any 
prospective trout, deer or other game* to be secured ; then 
your camp-stores will never be found wanting. You can 
easily sell any surplus to guides or hotel-keepers, at fair 
prices. 

SUBSISTENCE. 

RATIONS FOR ONE PERSON PER DAY. 

l.t 

Fresh and salt beef 20 oz., or pork. 

Soft bread or flour 18 oz , or hard bread 

Beans 3)^ oz , or rice, 

Sugar, .... 

Coffee (ground), . 

Salt, . . . . 

Candles, (sperm or adamantine). 

Soap, .... 

Vinegar, . 



2.1 



Pork, bacon or ham. 

Flour, oatmeal or corn-meal, 

Potatoes, 



12 


oz. 


, . 12 




• If 




If 








I 




% 






« 


4 


« 


. ■ . y^i^\\. 


5 


oz. 


4 


« 


. 16 


« 



*Among tlie Tiands of the forest, frogs are a gi'eat delicacy, and their 
capture, though cruel, is a source of amusement. To catch them, halt the 
hook with a hit of red nannel. 

tField allowance in the United States ai'my. 

tBy Gen. E. IT. Sherman (Ex-Sec. of the Commission of Fisheries) a 
veteran of twenty-five or thu-ty seasons experience in forest-life. 



CAMP LIFE. RATIONS. 



483 



Coffee, (ground) 

Tea, .... 

Sugar, 

Butter, . . ... 

Beans, 

Crackers, . 

Onions, 

Dried fruit, (apples, peaches or prune 

Baking-powder, 

Salt, . . 

Condensed milk. 



3.* 

White flour, .... 

Graham flour, .... 

Indian meal, .... 

Oatmeal (steam-cooked), or cracked wheat, 
Boston crackers, or hard tack, or sea biscuits. 
Rice, ...... 

Potatoes (in absence of potatoes increase 
4 or 6 oz.) .... 

Pork, 2^ oz , and lard >^ oz., or pork alone, 

Bacon or ham (boneless), 

Dried or canned beef. 

Beans, ..... 

Butter (if take no butter, increase pork 2 oz.). 

Onions, (Bermuda preferable). 

Dried peaches, .... 

Granulated or cut loaf sugar, 

Maple sugar, .... 

Coffee (ground), t .... 

Tea, ..... 

Condensed milk, y^^ can, or . 

Baking powder,(none needed if flour is self-raising) % 
Soda (to use when the batter sours), , . • /i 

Salt, . . . . . . K 

Pepper, . . . . . - Ti 



I 


oz. 


1 


<( 


¥ 




3 


(( 




u 


2 






il 








(( 








(( 








(( 






1/ 


a 


. i 


« 


tV can 


5 


OZ 


3 


« 




(( 


2 






u 


I 






(< 


2 




mi r 


t( 


UUl 

8 


a 




(( 


3 






a 


I 






n 


I 




, t/ 


i< 


i/i 




,1/ 


(( 


^72 




3/ 


<( 


74. 


(< 


I 






ii 


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,1/ 


{( 


. 1% 




13^ 


u 


• Vs 


(( 


1/8 


a 



*By E. R. WaUace. 

tA heaping table-spoonful of coffee is required for each cup to be made. 
It should boil but a few moments. A tea-spoonful of tea is needed for every 
cup to be prepared. 



4^4 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Tomatoes, . . . . . i oz. 

Candles (sperm or adamantine), . . ^ " 

Soap, . . . . . ^ " 

Canned delicacies may be added ; but bear in mind 
every additional pound increases your burden — an impor- 
tant item when carries are considered. 

Pork, flour, potatoes, tea and coffee are the staples in 
these lists. Slapjacks are the most common article of diet, 
and indeed, with maple syrup, the great luxury of the 
woods ; yet it should be said that a camp without beans 
would be a curiosity. 

With trout and venison added to the variety named, the 
best French cooks at Delmonico's could never cater to the 
wants of a guest who would eat with the eager zest of the 
average camper. 

To avoid being reduced to short rations, be frugal, and 
waste nothing in camp. 

When cooking, the pails, coffee-pot, etc., are hung over 
the fire on hooks suspended from a cross piece, placed on 
two crotched sticks, driven firmly into the ground, at each 
end of the fire-place. For the primitive mode, see accom- 
panying illustration: "A Lodge in the Wilderness."* 

EXPENSES. 

GUIDES. 

Guides charge for services from $2.50 to $3.00 per day. 
They furnish a boat, an axe, perhaps hatchet and auger, 
and sometimes cooking-utensils ; and carry all the luggage 
over the portages — though gentlemen will naturally assist 
them somewhat in this laborious operation. Guides also 
do the cooking, and attend to all the domestic duties in- 
cident to camp-life. It is customary for two individuals to 
employ one guide between them — thus reducing the cost 
one- half. 

And here let us record our respectful protest against the 
practice of penetrating these wilds unaccompanied by a 

*Tlie outfits and supplies should be transported in strong, well-strapped 
trunks, as they will pass as personal toaggage, and save mucli expense. 



CAMP LIFE. GUIDES. EXPENSES. 485 

guide. Such a proceeding is fraught with perplexity, hard- 
ship and absolute discomfort; and what is more, — although 
this is in opposition to general belief, — it is attended by 
but little economy. Those who are so unwise as to adopt 
such a policy, invariably do so to their great regret. Many 
are the vexatiDus hours utterly wasted, even when one is 
fully equipped with map, guide-book and compass, in seek- 
ing for inlets and portages, which the experienced guide, 
ever acute in woodcraft, would readily find. The physical 
and even mental natures of those unaccustomed to such a 
process, are taxed to the utmost, by bearing boats or bag- 
gage over the tedious carries, a task which the guide, " to 
the manner born," would accomplish with comparative ease. 
No ; these useful and trusty men, generally noblemen at 
heart if not in pretension, are really indispensable to those 
who visit the Adirondacks. We have presented the differ- 
ent routes, not that the services of guides may be dispensed 
with, but that our readers may be enabled to make a selec- 
tion from the various avenues that enter the Great Wilder- 
ness. 

Whichever path they may select, they 
"Cannot err 
In tMs delicious region." 

Boats may be hired independent of guides at 50 cents 
per day^ The expense of living, while in the woods, need 
not exceed $2 for each person, per week ; and even this 
figure may be considerably reduced. The approximate 
cost of a journey to the Adirondacks, and a sojourn for 
any period therein, may be easily estimated from the above 
data ; though it should be noted that the expense of such 
a tour will depend largely upon the taste and resources of 
the sportsman. If economical in his habits and willing to 
"rough it," he can make the trip a cheap one; if extrava- 
gant and luxurious, he may make it an expensive affair. 

To those desiring to purchase a boat suitable for the 
Adirondack waters, we submit the following : — 

What kind of boat is the best ? The first and main point 
to be considered is weighty for it must be light enough to 
be carried for miles, if necessary, by a single person. 
Steadiness is an important point, too, for how many have 



486 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



"missed that deer because the boat was so tottlish," to say 
nothing of the sufferings from tired cramped limbs and 
aching back occasioned by sitting for hours in a cranky 
boat. Capacity for luggage ; dryness, both for comfort and 
the safety of provisions ; strength, to enable it to stand the 
severe hardships it is subject to among the snags, rocks 
and rapids ; and last but not least, very fine lines to enable 
one to make rapid and especially silent progress through 
the water in search of "venison for breakfast." 

The question is, where is the boat that completely "fills 
the bill }" We must answer emphatically that those built 




by Mr. J. H. Rushton of Canton, St. Lawrence Co. do. Mr. 
Rushton has from boyhood tramped and camped through 
the North Woods, and knows just what is needed. The 
production of his boats is the result of study and experi- 
ment in trying to devise something to meet his own wants. 
In this he has succeeded far beyond his own expectations 
and far beyond any other builder, as the cruise of the 
"Sairy Gamp," attests. The Sairy Gamp was nine feet long, 
twenty-four inches wide, and weighed only ten and one- ha If 
pounds. Yet she carried the veteran "Nessmuk" safely on 
a cruise of over two hundred and fifty miles. The best 
size for the sportsman, however, is one 12 ft. long, 2 ft. 
8 inches wide, and weighing forty pounds, which is shown 



I 



CAMP LIFE. BOATS AND BOATING. 487 

in the cut (on previous page), fitted with Lyman's bow- 
facing rowing gear, for a single person. 

Another size is 13 ft. long, 2 ft. 10 inches wide, and 
weighs about 55 pounds. It has ample capacity for three 
persons and baggage. Any of these boats can be carried 
long distances on a neck-yoke, (see illustration on pages 
41-43) quite as easily as a pack of the same weight. Ma- 
terial and construction, are as foUaws : — Keel and stems, 
oak ; ribs, red elm ; siding, white cedar ^ the lightest and 
best wood for the purpose in the world. They are built 
lapstreak, eight streaks on a side, and the very fine lines 
they possess are obtained by a method peculiarly the 
builder's own, in shaping the streaks, which not only adds 
beauty, but strength, as it greatly lessens the strain put up- 
on the siding. They are further strengthened by the use 
of neat half-round ribs, which are put in but i^ inches 
apart, making the boat much stronger than heavy ribs 
placed farther apart. 

Mr. Rushton's business has greatly increased in the past 
few years. His factory now covers 15,000 square feet of 
floor, besides large storing capacity for finished work in 
other buildings; and he constantly employs a large force of 
skilled workmen on a great variety of very fine work. Fine 
sailing canoes are now a specialty with him.* 

THE PLEASURES OF BOATING. 

To one whose mind is unburdened with care, who loves 
to commune with nature in all her primitive wildness and 
beauty, who is, withal, an enthusiastic admirer of grand and 
picturesque scenery, we know of no enjoyment superior to 
that of floating near the shores of one of these charm- 
ing lakes at the close of a quiet day. If the evening is 
calm and pleasant, we may spend it most happily in the 
manner named. Inhaling an air richly laden with the 
balsamic sweetness of the fir, pine and hemlock, our ears 
drinking in the cheerful melody of the retiring songsters of 
the woods whose joyous lives are passed in leafy bowers, 

*Tlie fact should not be overlooked however, that the boats manufac- 
tured at Long Lake, Saranac Lake, and at some other points in the Adiron- 
dacks, remain unsurpassed for use in the that region. 



488 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

our eyes constantly delighted by the many shadowy points 
of romantic interest unfolded to us, we glide over the 
placid waters, wholly absorbed in the fascinating picture. 
Stars above us in the constellated heavens ; stars beneath 
us, gathering fresh brilliancy from their reflection ; stars 
around us, bedecking with diamonds the horizon's circle. 
Anon, night's radiant queen pours her gleaming rays in a 
flood of light upon the sleeping lake, arraying it in its robe 
of burnished silver. All is as peaceful as "the slumbering 
mist ;" all is as lovely as "an artist's dream." With a sigh 
of regret at parting from this fairy- like scene, but with 
hearts full of profound adoration for the "Great Architect" 
of all these glories of the earth and sky, we wend our way 
to our sylvan camp. 

THE CHASE. 

'packing" or "floating," as it is usually called, is the most 
common and picturesque method of hunting deer. To 
accomplish this, a pole about 4 ft. long is set uprightly 
in the bow of the boat, and kept in position by running the 
lower end through an auger-hole in the little deck, and 
placing it, securely wedged, in a socket in the bottom of 
the craft. On the top of the standard is fastened a jack- 
lamp, burning oil manufactured especially for this purpose, 
with 3 sides closed so as to throw all the light ahead, and 
furnished with a reflector. In its rudest style it is made by 
bending a section of birch-bark, about i ft. in length, 
around a half-circle of board or broad chip 7 or 8 inches 
in diameter. This forms a partial reflector, of semi-circular 
shape, and 2 or 3 candles afford the light. Our ancestors 
used a pine-knot torch. 

It is well known that deer, in the summer, especially at 
night, resort to the water and immerse themselves to the 
neck in its cool depths to escape the persecution of flies, 
and to feed on the lily- pads floating on the surface. 

When the arrangements are complete, and the sky is 
cloudy^ the sportsman with gun in hand, places himself be- 
hind the jack upon an improvised seat of boughs, and the 
guide or oarsman has a similar sitting in the stern. The 
latter then gently, and silently paddles the canoe, carefully 



CAMP LIFE. THE CHASE. 489 

exploring the darkly wooded shores of the lake or stream, 
until a deer is found. 

What wondrous scenes are revealed by the strong light, 
and what mysterious, sometimes unearthly, sounds are 
heard as the boat glides along. The dark, fantastic rocks 
jutting from the banks, put on every imaginable guise. 
The trees lining the shores are magically transformed into 
graceful pillars, splendid palaces, and grand cathedrals. 
Later in the night when the fog ascends, the leafy covering 
of the banks, veiled by the mist, becomes a series of lofty 
columns, arcades, symmetrical cones and pyramids, glitter- 
ing with burnished gold and silver, and the forest-wall a 
lace-work of the most exquisite workmanship. 

The leaves lend their gently murmuring sighs, the tremb- 
ling pine, that tree of sadness, is soughing with the wind, 
the tree-toad quavers from among the branches, the rac- 
coon calls to its mate and finds response, the hedgehog 
makes its peculiar bark while bristling with a thousand 
quills, the bull-frog with deep bass bellows hoarsely in his 
reedy covert, the wood-duck renders its lonesome cry, the 
sweet-voiced whip-poor-will pipes its plaintive notes, the 
loon tauntingly laughs his challenge while riding on the 
wave, the startled bat with whizzing wings darts through 
the air, describing confused involutions, the owls are hold- 
ing high carnival and with melancholy hoots dismally pro- 
test against this invasion of their precincts, the musk-rat, 
surprised in the midst of its gambols, in sheer alarm plunges 
into the water, (and let not the hunter be deceived and 
mistake it for the object of his search) the bear growls, 

, perchance, when disturbed by the unwonted illumination 
of its lair, and were the time removed 20 years into the 

! past, the scream of the panther and the howl of the wolf 

'would salute the ear. But hush ! A deer is sighted. The 
shy and cautious animal, ever on the alert, has discovered 

; the light, to him a strange and novel spectacle. Perfectly 
fascinated by the glare, and spell-bound, he views it with 
rapt amazement. The crouching forms of the hunter and 

'the paddler, being behind the lamp, are enveloped in abso- 
lute darkness and remain unseen, while to them is disclosed 

ji the spectral shape of the noble quarry, with head erect, ears 



490 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

thrown back, and eyes seemingly two balls of fire. Before 
the deer recovers from his astonishment, the sportsman 
fires, and generally, if not attacked by "buck-fever," secures 
his game. If the hunt is long continued, the cramped 
position in the boat and the rapidly cooling night, render 
it a very tedious and uncomfortable affair. 

"Driving" or "hounding" consists in pursuing deer with 
dogs. The hounds are put out in the forest near a lake, 
or group of lakelets, and the hunters are stationed on the 
shores, or in boats, near places called runways, which are 
paths made by these animals in passing to and from their 
feeding-grounds. Deer never run long; and upon being 
scented and driven from their cover, they soon take to the 
water, and are there, generally, despatched while swimming. 
The sport, though cruel, is intensely exciting ; and the bay- 
ing of the hounds, reverberating in undulating notes, among 
the mountains, now near, now afar, is the most acceptable 
music that the sportsman can hear. 

"Still-hunting" is the most manly and sportsmanlike of 
the three principal modes of hunting deer. The animal is 
cautiously sought for in the forest, without a dog, and when 
discovered, stealthily approached by the hunter. This way 
is successfully practiced only after a slight fall of snow, 
when it is easy to follow the tracks. 

"Deer-licks" (made by placing salt on a decaying log,) 
and "crusting," the latter a nefarious manner of slaughter- 
ing this graceful, beautiful and harmless creature, are hard- 
ly worthy of mention. 

The food of deer consists of twigs, bark, roots, grass, 
berries, nuts, acorns and aquatic plants. 




CAMP LIFE. THE OPEN SEASON. 49I 

THE GAME LAWS.* 

WHEN AND HOW DEER MAY BE KILLED AND TRANSPORTED. 

Deer may be killed, except by dogs, from Aug. 15 to 
Nov. I. 

Deer may be hounded from Sept. 10 to Oct. 11. 

Hounds or other dogs used for hunting deer, will not be 
allowed to run at large in the forests during the close sea- 
son ; and if found in pursuit of a deer within that period, 
they may be legally killed by any person. 

No person shall kill or take alive more than two deer in 
the open season. 

Only one carcass, or a part thereof may be transported 
from the section where killed, and that must be accom- 
panied by the owner. If it is after the legal season, and 
as late as Nov, 16, it must be proved by the possessor or 
seller that such deer was killed within the lawful period. 
This, however, has no application to the head and feet, or 
skin of the animal detached from the body. 

Crusting and yarding of deer are prohibited. 

Fawns shall not be killed at any time. 

Penalty for violating any of the above laws, misdemeanor, 
and %\oo fine. \ 

SMALL GAME. 

Black and Gray SquirrelsJ may be killed and possessed 
between Sept. i and Jan. i. Fine, for violation, $25. 

Hares (Wild Rabbits), between Nov. i and Feb. r.§ 
Fine, $25. 

*Tliese laws have special reference to tlie Adirondack Region. 
tFor using traps and other devices, the fine is $10. 
tBlack and Gray Squirrels are only found in the borders and near settle- 
ments. 

§ There are amendments to the Game Laws noW before the Legislature, 
which if passed, will allow the killing of hares from Aug. 15 to Mch. 15. 
Doubtless other changes will also be made. 



492 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

BIRDS. 

Web-footed Wild Fowl (Ducks, etc.,) may be killed be- 
tween Sept. I and May i. 

Snipe, Plover, Rail, etc., from Sept. i to Jan. i. 

Woodcock, Grouse, and Partridge, from Aug. 15 to 
Jan. I. 

No net, trap, or snare shall be used. Fine, ^[o. 

WHEN TROUT MAY BE CAUGHT AND TRANSPORTED. 

Brook or Speckled Trout, Brown Trout and California 
Trout, may be caught or killed between Apr. 15 and Sept. 
I. Fine, $25. 

Lake or Salmon-trout, and Land-locked Salmon, from 
May I to Oct. i. 

No kind of trout shall be disturbed while spawning ; and 
those less than six inches long, must be put back into the 
water. Fine, $to. 

No trout shall be taken out of the region except in the 
lawful season, and then must be accompanied by the owner. 
None shall be taken for the purpose of stocking a private 
lake, pond, or stream. 

Nets, seines, weirs, traps, fykes, and dynamite or other 
explosives, are prohibited. 

No fish, fry or spawn, except those just named, and Adi- 
rondack Frost Fish, shall be placed in the Adirondack 
waters. Penalty^ imprisonment in penitentiary and fine of 
$500. 

Never include the last date named in the legal season. 

ADDITIONAL RESTRICTIONS, 

For removing or defacing any notice posted by the owner 
of lands, the fine is $25. 

For poaching, or trespassing on such lands, $25. 

Shooting, hunting, and fishing on Sunday are not per- 
mitted. Fine, $10. 

The old law offering a bounty for bears, wolves, and 
panthers remains in force. 



CAMP LIFE. 493 

A CHAPTER ON WOODCRAFT. 



THE EXPERIENCE OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN LOST IN 
THE WOODS. 

It is the pride of the woodsman to be "at home" in the 
woods, and he is seldom willing to admit that he has been 
bewildered or lost;* but this occasionally happens. A more 
discouraging position can hardly be imagined than that of 
a man passing days and nights in the woods without food, 
knowing that his course, taken at random, is probably in 
the wrong direction, A woodsman with a good compass, 
ought not to be wholly lost, if he has some acquaintance 
with the country and meets with no serious accident, and 
especially if he keeps his matches dry, so that, even if with- 
out food, he can protect himself from the cold at night. 
In default of a compass, and with a cloudy sky, he may learn 
the direction from the tops of tall pines, or hemlocks, if he 
encounters them, which in the main will point towards the 
east^ from the influence of prevailing westerly winds. It will 
also be noticed that most of the moss on trees grows on the 
north side, and that the largest branches of spruce trees are 
on the south side. The anxieties of a lost man, who has 
spent several days in the woods wholly deprived of food, 
can hardly be realized, except by one who has had a similar 
experience. Among the multitude of such misadventures 
that must have happened in the Adirondack Wilderness, 
we are unable to learn that any good woodsman has ever 
perished ;f yet instances of great peril have doubtless 
occurred. Among verified cases may be cited the follow- 
ing : 

In 1868, Wednesday, Sept. 23d, Miles McCollum was 
hunting with a party at Big Wolf Pond. After putting out 

*lf you And that you are lost, Immediately retrace your steps as nearly 
as possible. Ttils will be greatly facilitated if you have had the forethought 
to break a bush or " blaze " a tree occasionally on the route. Do not lose 
control of your mental faculties. Always have matches with you when in 
the woods, and keep them in a bottle, or water-proof match safe. 

tWe have since learned of an exception. "Old Ab." Kellogg, a hunter 
and trapper, was lost in the woods in Oct. 1880 and has never since been 
seen ; neither have his remains been discovered. - A rifle recognized by some 
Loon Lake guides as his, was found near the old Carthage Road, in the fall 
of 1893. 

42 



494 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

his dog to start a deer, he lost his way. His companions 
searched for him unsuccessfully. He was in the woods 
three days and nights, and found himself at Raquette Pond 
(three m, from Big Wolf) on Saturday. His food consisted 
of a single partridge (ruffed grouse), which he shot— as he 
fortunately had a gun and two charges of ammunition with 
him — and several minnows caught with a pin-hook. 

Later in the same year, Charley Roberts of Lake Placid, 
was hunting from Long Pond, Bog River. His dog re- 
turned and he went to start him again, leaving his gun and 
Goat in his boat. He failed to fiad his way back, and after 
being lost for three nights and four days was found by a 
party from Cranberry Lake, on the outlet of Bog I^ake. 
His fellow hunters — Jim Wilson and others— had sought 
for him diligently, and had told the circumstances to the 
party which had the good fortune to find him. He had a 
few matches which supplied him with fire, or he would have 
perished, as the weather was cold, rainy and snowy. 

In the fall of 1844, Charles Fenton, the well known 
proprietor of the popular hostelry at Number Four, (see 
p. 96,) and his brother George, while engaged in setting a 
line of marten traps, extending from "Rock Shanty" to 
Beach's (Brandreth's) Lake, became bewildered, though 
they were perhaps not really lost. They occupied one day 
in making traps near the shores of a lonely little lake which 
they discovered, and which they christened "Moose Pond," 
on account of the ground in the vicinity being completely 
trodden up by an "army" of moose. The weather being 
fair, they made no provision for shelter, but at ten o'clock 
at night were surprised by a fierce rain storm, which soon 
drenched them to the skin. Rising in the morning from 
their sleepless bed of wet boughs, they resumed their occu- 
pation and continued it throughout the day, notwithstand- 
ing the continued violence of the storm. On the evening 
of the second day while preparing for a brush shanty, they 
found to their dismay that their matches were wet, and that 
it was impossible to light a fire. After holding a brief con- 
sultation, they decided to start for the "Carthage Road," 
which the State was then cutting through the Wilderness 
from Crown Point to Carthage. They knew that men were 



CAMP LIFE. LOST IN THE WOODS. 495 

working upon this road at Stillwater, and there they would 
find shelter and fire. They traveled in that direction about 
two miles, when it became so dark they could no longer 
see the needle of their compass. They had reached the 
summit of a mountain, and there they were compelled to 
await the morning. The pitiless storm still continued, and 
they almost perished with the cold. Repeatedly they dis- 
robed themselves and wrung the water from their clothing. 
They had to exercise violently, and almost constantly, to 
keep from perishing. "After about a month,'' said Mr. 
Fenton, "daylight gladdened our eyes. Talk about a polar 
night ; it can be nothing in comparison with the length and 
terrors of that hapless night !" As soon as they could see 
their compass they resumed their' journey, and in a few 
minutes discovered a lake, which they immediately named 
''Lake Terrors' They arrived at Twitchell Creek and in 
sight of fire at about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. There 
they waded 20 rods, in water 3 feet deep, to reach the bank 
of the creek, where they had to wait, exposed to the cut- 
ting wind, until some workmen on the other side, could 
build a raft to take them across the stream. 

In February, 1876, Edward C. Pierce left Hathorn's 
Camp at the outlet of Utowana Lake for Dunning's Winter 
Camp on Shedd Lake. Crossing Raquette Lake, he fol- 
lowed Brown Tract Inlet instead of South Inlet, went to 
8th Lake, supposing it to be Shedd Lake, thence to 7th 
Lake, mistaking it for Fonda Lake, thence in his aimless 
wanderings, to Lime Kiln Lake, and from there to Moose 
River, two miles from Moose River Tannery. There he 
was found by some lumbermen, lying in the deep snow in a 
pitiable condition. He had passed four days in the woods 
without food, and his sufferings from exposure and hunger 
were fearful. While sleeping by a fire one night, his moc- 
casins were literally burned off his feet, and on the follow- 
ing day, soon after stepping into a spring-hole, he found 
his feet were terribly frozen. Two days before he was 
found, he had passed near a lumber-camp without being 
aware of the fact. When we saw him five months after- 
wards, his feet, though entirely toeless, were healing, and 
he was hobbling about in comfortable .health. 



496 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

We are told in Street's "Indian Pass," that the father of 
the late Mr. Scott, of North Elba, became lost, while hunt- 
ing, many years ago. In a large ledge adjoining his even- 
ing camp, a vein of the richest silver glistened before his 
admiring eyes. He secured a specimen of the treasure, 
which was subsequently reduced and formed into a heart ; 
but after leaving the spot, in the confusion of intellect to 
which all persons are subject who are lost in the woods, he 
was never able to identify it ; and, to this day, guarded only 
by the grim "Genius loci," sleeps unknown this Potosi of 
the Adirondacks. 

There is a popular notion that when men are lost they 
wander in a circle ; and many stories of this kind are cur- 
rent. Hon. Mr. Ferdon, of Piermont, N. Y., gives an 
account of persons getting lost in a small swamp and 
making the tour of the same without emerging from it, as 
evidenced by their tracks in the snow ; and it is said that 
Charley Roberts (before named) found his own tracks and 
supposed they were marks of some other man running. 

Mitchell Sabattis, the Indian guide, says that he can 
always remember his crooks and turns when engaged in 
still-hunting, and thus invariably judge how to retrace his 
steps. Others. have not admitted this to be true in their 
own cases, but claim to have relied on their knowledge of 
the general features of the territory, the ridges, water- 
courses, &c.; and when unable to decide upon their proper 
route from their immediate surroundings, they have as- 
cended trees to learn the position of the hills, and other 
objects in the landscape with whose characteristics and 
relations they were acquainted. 

The wonder is not that men get lost in the forests, but 
that so many are able to traverse them and reach their 
destination. Still-hunters and woodsmen generally acquire 
a degree of skill and confidence in this respect which to 
inexperienced people must seem remarkable. But it is 
held by naturalists that this skill or instinct is possessed in 
a still higher degree by many animals, and they have 
resorted to numerous ingenious explanations to account 
for it. 



I 



I 



CAMP LIFE. ACCIDENTS. 497 

Dr. O. W. Holmes, in the Atlantic Monthly^ June 1863, 
p. 571, says : "One side of a man always tends to outwalk 
the other, so that no person can walk far in a straight line 
if he is blindfolded." If we accept this as undeniable, then 
a man in the woods who has nothing in particular by which 
to determine his course, might actually walk faster on one 
side and thus perform the circular movement. 

The rational explanation in the case of man seems to us 
to be, that his skill in traveling through the pathless woods, 
is the result of an educated judgment. The person may 
appear to act intuitively or instinctively, and yet a general 
knowledge of the forests, and confidence in himself, enable 
him to choose his course and travel safely. The possession 
of this power is acquired by training, but he may be unable 
to clearly explain it. 

ACCIDENTS. 

Bleeding from a wound on man or beast may be stopped 
by a mixture of wheat flour and common salt, in equal 
parts, bound on with a cloth. If the bleeding be profuse, 
use a large quantity, say from one to three pints. It may 
be left on for hours, or even days, if necessary. 

If your boat is capsized and you cannot swim, cling to it 
until you are rescued or it drifts ashore. Remember that the 
human body weighs only a few pounds in the water, 
and the head may be kept above its surface by placing one 
finger upon a piece of board, a chair or small box. With 
the other hand and your feet, you can paddle to the land. 
Keep cool, and there is but little danger. 

TO RESUSCITATE THE DROWNING. 

'It is important to avoid delay, and the very moment 
the body is taken from the water it should be stripped to 
the waist and the face of the patient placed downward. 
The clothing having been made into a roll to raise the pit 
of the stomach above the level of the mouth, all fluids 
should be forced out by pressure with the hands, one on 
the back just below the shoulder blades and the other 
opposite. Artificial breathing is produced by placing the 



498 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



roll of clothing under the body turned upon its back and 
then grasping the chest on either side of the pit of the 
stomach and gradually pressing forward and upward until 
the whole strength is used, and then suddenly letting go, 
the operation to be repeated with the regularity of natural 
breathing. The whole process, outlined rather than ade- 
quately described in this place, is so simple that a child 
may perform it if sufficiently strong, and no person should 
permit himself to be ignorant of it. Do not be impatient 
of results. Any time within two hours you may be on the 
very threshold of success without there being any sign of 
it. There are instances on record where breathing has 
been restored after having ceased for an hour or more." 







^^^^^^'M^, 



OvEB THE Carry with a Kushton Boat. 



SUMMER IN THE WILDERNESS * 



BY MRS. FANNY FREEMAN. 

Ho, the wild, shady forest, majestic and grand. 
Who would not sojourn there, when sunbeams expand, 
Communing with Nature, 'mid verdure so sweet. 
The world's cares forgetting, in such a retreat ? 

There, are miniature lakes, midst flowers and trees 
Whose branches make music when swung to the breeze, 
And a chorus most charming, with opera words, 
Intoned in its parts by the beautiful birds. 

And the garrulous squirrel, defying approach, 
If with aim on his larder you dare to encroach, 
So nimble and merry, he lays in his store, 
And ceases his labors when harvest is o'er. 

What joy in the morning to breathe the fresh air, 
And stroll through the wildwood, unburthened with care ; 
While climbing the mountains and fording the streams, 
Even age will look backward to youth's giddy dreams. 

When high in the heavens, the sun shineth bright, 
And weary with wandering, from morn's early light. 
What pleasure to rest, fully screened from its beams, 
And watch the gay trout in the cool, limpid streams. 

And mayhap in the quiet, while tarrying there, 
When the wild beast of prey, is secure in his lair, 
The fleet, mild eyed fawn at the water's clear brink 
Will gladden the sight as she comes there to drink. 

When the wanderings cease, at the day's quiet close, 
With naught then to hinder a night's sweet repose, 
The ear oft is greeted, while all else is still. 
With the wild thrilling notes of the shy whip-poor-will. 

The hermitage ended, there's a dread to depart, 
As Nature uncultured, has more charms than Art; 
Thoughts of intercourse social bring often a sigh, 
And seldom is uttered ihejina/ good-by. 

Syracuse, July, 1890. [Daily fouma/.] 

*TMs poem was written by Mrs. Freeman after she had passed her eigh- 
tieth birthday, and seems to indicate that even extreme maturity of age 
does not dull the enthusiasm felt for forest life> She visited the Adiron- 
dacks when she was over eighty-two years old; 



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ADIRONDACKS. 



PAGE. 

Animals 18 

Antiquity 164,358 

Area 23 

Birds 17 

Deforestation 16, 22 

Fishes 18 

Flowers 17, 462 



PAGE. 

Forest Commission 427, 477, 481 

Minerals 18 

Mountain Ranges 14 

Origin of Name 13 

Sanitary Qualities 20, 248 

Traditional Divisions 22 

Trees 16 



CHASMS, PLUMES AND GORGES. 



Ausable cnasm 277 

Avalanctie Gorge 326 

Cascade Laljes' Gorge 317 

Chateaugay Cliasm 199 

Chimney Pt. Gulf 93 

Cloven Rock 220 

Cold River canon 352 

Gill Brook Flume 300 

Hunter's Pass 342 



Indian Pass 352 

Mt. Colden Trap Dyke 356 

Opalescent Flume 357 

Panther Gorge 311 

Poke-0- Moonshine Gorge 286, 293 

Port Kendall Chasm . 221 

Washhond's Flume 303 

Whetstone Gulf 94 

Wilmington Flmne and Notch 275 



FALLS. 



Alice 284 

Artist's (Gill Brook) 300 

Ausahle 277 

Eeaver Meadow 297 

Big ( Wilmington Notch) 275 

Big {Ktene Valley) .297 

BlueMt. Cascade 407 

Bog {Raquette River) 160 

Bog River 461 

Bouquet {Split Rock) 290 

Brown's {Oswegatchie River) 145 

Bushnell's 297 

Buttermilk 436 

Chateaugay 200-203 

Chimney Pt. Cascade 93 

Clifford 295 

Col ton 158 

Copper 152 

Corinne 314 

Eagle 99 

Gothic Mt 308 

Fairy Ladder 314 

Hadley (Roclcweirs) 390 

High {Beaver River) ' . .100 

High {Big Inlet) 148 

High {Deer River) 95 

Hull's (Lower) .296 

Hull's (Upper) 314 

Jamestown 161 

King's 95 

Little 2r5 

Little River 144 



Lyon's 78 

Minnehaha 314 

Moody 161 

Mossy 314 

Opalescent 357 

Oswegatchle (8 falls above Humes')l36 

OtterCreek 82 

Panther Gorge Cascade 3ii 

Perceneld 168 

Phelps' 297 

Prospect {KuyaTiora) 35 

Rainbow 308 

Raquette 446 

Ribbon 308 

Roaring Brook 298 

RoundP 461 

Russell 297 

Saranac 211, 229 

saw.ver Creek 150 

Sherburne 295 

Silver Cascade 94 

South Inlet {Otter LaTce) 88 

South Inlet {Raquette Lake) 428 

Stark's 159 

Stile's 314 

Sugar River 77 

Trent 212 

Trenton 26 

Wallace's 326 

Walton 47 

Whlttaker's 95 

Wilmurt 43 



INDEX. 



509 



HERMITS. 



PAGK. 

Bowen ' 445 

Dunning-, Alva 76 

Follngsby, Capt 448 

Harris 107 

Hough, Carl 107 



PAGB. 

"Joe Indian" 159 

O'Kane, "Jimmy" 103 

Pezeeko, tne Indian 418 

Sabele, "the Indian of a Century". .398 
Smith, David 103,115 



LAKES AND PONDS. 



Abortive P. {Johnnie's L.) .100 

Adam L — 

Addison P 460 

AllenP 152 

Alvord L — 

Amber L 160 

Ampersand P 256 

Ampersand P. (Little) 256 

Anderson L — 

Anderson P 140 

Andrew L 351 

Antedeluvlan P 441, 464 

Anthony P. (Upper) 442 

Anthony P. (Middle) 442 

Anthony P. (Lower) 442 

Arnold L — ^ 

Arquet L 179 

ArthurP 107 

' Artist L 389 

Auger L 286 

Auger P — 

Ausable L. (Lower) 307 

Ausable L. (Upper) 309 

Avalanche L 355 



Baby L 40 

Bad Luck P 396 

Bailey P. (Hayes') — 

Baker P. (2) 177, 188 

Balsam L. (6) 46, 405 

Barnum P 287, 240 

Bartlett's P 366 

Barton P.. 291 

Bassett L. {Jumping-trout P.) 125 

Bay P 241 

Beech Mt. P. (Two-pound P.) 138 

BeaiL — 

Bear P. (i 2),ioo,i40, I6I, I8I, 189, 245, 

395, 405, 428, 4£2. 

Beaver L 98, 405 

Beaver P. (6) '. . .376, 395, 402 

Beaver Branch P. (Upper) — 

Beaver Branch P. (Lower) — 

Beaver Damp 98 

Beaver Meadow P. (2) 144, 459 

Beef P 233 

' Beetle L 405 

BeldenP. (2) 380,381 

Bell's P 83, 99 

Bellefontaine P — 

Bellows' L 420 

Ben's P 179 



Ben Smith's P 393 

Benthuy sen P — 

Berkley P 159 

Berry P 340 

Betner P. (Upper) 464 

Betner P. (Lower] 464 

Bigsby P 376 

Birch P 342 

BlrdP 393 

Btsby L. (First) 54 

Bisby L. (Second) 54 

BisbyL. (Third) 54 

Bisby L. (Fourth) 54 

Black P. (4) 181, 266, 392, 452 

Biackfoot P. (Upper) 89 

Blackfout P. (Lower) . , S9 

Bladder P 138 

Bloody P 369 

Bloody Moose P 376 

Blue Mountain L 405 

BlueP 242,271 

Bodey P 376 

BogL 116 

BogP 245 

Bonaparte L 130 

Bonlto L 389 

Boot Tree P 167 

Bonner P — 

lioreasP's. (3) 311 

Bossout or Barsout 149, 460 

Botheration P 397 

Bottle P. {Lake Rolana) 435 

Bord Edwards' P — 

Boundary P — 

Bradley P 205 

Branch P. {See Lake Titus) — 

Brandreth's L. {Beach's) .119 

Brandy P 266 

Brantingham L 79 

Brant L 395 

Breed Mill P — 

Bridge Brook P 452 

Brook P 397 

Brook-trout P — 

Bromley P — 

Brown P , — 

Brown's Tract P. (Upper) T6 

Brown's Tract P. (Lower) 76 

Bub's L 74 

Buck L 124 

BuckP. (6) J 107,187,233 

Buck Mountain P iso 

BugL 76 

Bullhead P. (2) 126, 130 

Bullhead P. {Burr's) 81 

BuUpout P 340 



5IO 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Bum P. (2) 360,464 

Burnt L — 

Burnt P 395 

Burnt L. (Little) 108 

Burnt Bridge P — ■ 

Butler P 375 

Buttermilk P — 

Butternut P 286 



Cage's L 138 

Calamity P 355 

Caledonia P. {Proteus L.) — 

Cameron P — 

Camus P 329 

Canactiagala L 55 

Carl'sP. — 

Carpenter L — 

CarryP.(£ig) Tl 

CaryP 435 

Cascade L. (Upper) ^Edmunds') oic 
Cascade L. (Lower) ( Ponds, f ■'' 

Cascade L. {John's) T4 

Cascade P 4io 

Caswell P 37 

CatP's(3) 441 

Cat P. ( 6 ) 241, 395 

Catamount P. (2) ...163,233 

Cat Mountain P 149, 460 

Catlln.L 381 

Catspaw L 82 

Cedar L. (4) lf)2 

Cedar L's. (3) 1st, 2d, 3d 399, 402 

Cedar P. (5) 84,400 

Center P. (2) 167 

Centerbars f — 

Chain L's. (7) 380,400 

Chain P's. (2) 188 

Chamber L 54 

Chamber's P. — 

Champlaln, L 213 

Chandler P 161 

Chapel P 299 

Charley P. (2) 117, 194 

Chase's L. (2) 92, 4-n 

Chase's P 

Chateaugay L. (Upper) 204 

Chateaugay L. (Lower) 204 

Chazy L 228 

Ciieney P 342 

Cherry Patch P 338 

Chub L. (4) 53. 67, 152 

Chub P. (3) 233, 396 

ChubP. (Kound) 89 

Chuck P 181 

Church P's. (4) 76 

Church P 160 

Cincinnati L 54 

Cisco L — 

Clamshell P 241 

Clear L 152 

Clear, L. {Big Clear Pond) 244 

Clear l. {North Elba) 323 

Clear P. (Fall L.) lU 

Clear P. {Loon) 462 



PAGE 
Clear P. (16) 37,71,116,149,154,161, 
187,188,236, 341,441. 

Clear P. (L'ower) 126 

Clear P. (Middle) 126 

Clear P. (Upper) 126 

Clear P. (Little ; Lake Brandon) . . .246 

Cleveland L — 

Cluster or Foij,r South P's 138 

CodP — 

Colby P 254 

Golden, L 355 

ColdL. {Bear) 101, 110 

Cold P. (Gould) — 

Cold P. (Spring) — 

Cold Spring P 460 

Colvin L 154, 459 

Combs L 67 

Comus (.lack's) L — 

Conery P . .'. 338 

Constable P 73 

Cook's L 419 

Cook (Davis) P 152 

CopelandP 375 

Copper L 85 

Copperas P 275 

Copperas P. (Little) -^itiS 

CoreyP — 

Corner P. (2) 400 

Cowhorn P 149, 460 

CrabP 366 

Cracker P . 109, 460 

Cranberry L. (Great) 153 

Cranberry P. (4) 46, 241, 429 

Cranberry L. (Little) — 

Crane P 366 

Crane Mountain P 395 

Crescent P 402 

Crooked L 109 

Crooked (Agan) L 98 

Crooked (Elbow) L — 

CrookedP. 160 

Crotchet P 397, 398 

Crowfoot P 340 

Crystal L 91 

Crystal 1^ 460 

CubP -- 

Curtis P 154 

Darn Needle (Oval) P 156, 459 

DavlsP — 

Dawson's P. (2) 446, 469 

Debar P 191 

Deep P. (2) 410 

Deer L 41 

Deer P. (10).... 46, 89, 124, 266, 381, 400 

Deer P. (Cedar Lake) 112 

Deer(^9'g)P 167 

Deer, Little P. (2) 109, 460 

Deer Fly P 194 

Delia (Newcomb) L 379 

Den's P — 

Desert P 124 

DesolateP 366 

Dexter L. (See Stoner Lakes) 420 



INDEX. 



511 



PAGE. 

Dleskaw P — 

Dillon P 153 

Dismal P — 

Dobesson's P 130 

Doc P — 

Dodge P -- 

Dog P 101 

urainP — 

Dry P — 

Dry cnannel P 271 

Dry 'rimber L 140 

Duane, L. {Long P.) 189 

Duck P. (10) 130, 1X8, 233, 265, 395, 442, 
460. 

Duck P. (Little) 240 

Duck Hole 379 

Dug Mountain P. (Upper) 399, 417 

Dug Mountain P. (Lower) 399, 417 

Dyer'sP 82 



Eagle L. (2) 76, 4JO 

Eagle P 191 

East P. (lO) 67, 84, 88, 107, 120, 178, 
271. 393. 

East Branch P. (Dexler^s L.) 178 

EcHoL..**. 418 

EdgecotnbP 375 

Efner L 392 

Egg (Deer) P 167 

Eldon (Elizabeth) L .427 

Elbow P. (2) 194,242 

Eleventh P 397 

Elk L. (Mita Pond) 841 

ElmL .416 

ElV L 155, 459 

Empty P — 

Ensign P 340 

Eureka P 46 

Everett P. — 

Evergreen L lOl, 108 

Evergreen P — 



Fairy P 1 44 

Pall L 418 

Fall's P 405 

Fathomless, L 394, 

Fathomless P — 

Fawn P 125 

Ferguson's P 391 

Fern L 230 

Fiddler's L 419 

Figure Eight L 195 

First L. {North Branch) 71 

First {Granger ) P — 

First and Second Chains, Bog 

River 455 

Hitchine's P... " 

Middle P :. " 

North P " 

First P " 

Second P " 

Third P " 



PAGE. 

Fish L. (East).. I Canada Lake , .„^ 
Fish L. (West). { or Lake Byrn. f ^^^ 

Fish P. (5) lOS, 245, 376, 395 

Fish P. (Little) 376 

FishCreekP. (Lower) 98 

Fish Creek P. (Upper) 98 

Fish Creek P. (Lower) 265 

Fish Creek P. (Middle) 265 

Fish Creek P. (Upper) 265 

FlshPoleP..... :... 155,460 

FiveP'S. (5) 149 460 

Five Acre P 125 

Flat P 

Flat Fish P 436 

Fiat Rock P 125 

Floodwool P 265, 271 

Flower, L .254 

Fly L 418 

FiyP 71 

Folingsby's P 448 

Folingsby's Clear P 268 

Folingsbv Jr. p 242 

Fonda {Sumner L.) 404, 428 

Forked L. (Big) .435 

Forked L. (Little) 435 

Foster's P 

Fountain L. {Round Pond) .381 

Fouri h P 156, 457 

Fox L 429 

Fox P {near Albany Lake) — 

Francis L 99 

Prank L 396 

Frank May's P — 

Friend's {Atateka) L 395 

Pulton Chain 65-76 

First 67 

Second 68 

Third 68 

Fourth 69 

Fltth 74 

Sixth. 75 

Seventh 75 

Eighth 76 



C^ 



47 



"G"L 

Ga.ge L 

GalP 149,460 

Game P 110 

Garoga L. (East).... 420 

Garoga L. ( West) 420 

Garrett P's. (3). 85 

George, L 369 

George L 110 

Giant's Wash Bowl 299 

Gibb's L 64 

Gill's P 137 

Giliman P — 

Glasby P 155, 460 

Goldsmith's P 233 

Goodenow P 380 

Good LuckL 421 

Goose {Moose) L 41 

Goose P. (4) 140,178, 365 

Goose Neck P 360 



512 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

GraS^R (7) 90, *i25,' 'mi 'm,'2dil 246, 
400 

Grass River P. (3) -- 

Grassy P ;•>,«• 'f^; 

Oravps' P 156,457 

Green L. (4): :....: 67,125,130,420 

Green P 2T1 

GreenP. (Big) 246 

Green P. (Little) - -245 

Green (Gourd) P. (Lake Francis) . .191 

Grlgg's L 125,139 

GUU L. (3) 45, 109, 149, 452 

GulIP.(3y. 156' ^^6, 452 

Gull P. (Little) 459 

H 

Hackmetack P 107 

Half Moon L 91 

Half Way P ;- 

Hall's P ••••391 

Hamilton L 417 

Hammond P 340 

Handsome P 442 

Hank's P 108 

HardscraDble (Little Engineer) L. . 41 

Harrington P 116 

Harris, L.... 377 

HatchP's. (2) 340 

Hawk (Emerald) L 110 

Hays'P 376 

qeadP — 

Heath P 144,155 

HedgeliogP 442 

Hell Gate L's. (2) 60 

Henderson, L 351 

Hewitt'sP 376 

Hick's P 1 44 

Higby Twin P's. (2) no 

High P. (2) 435,455 

Hitchcock L .. . 90 

Hitchcock P. (3) 103 

Hitching's P. (.see First Chain) 455 

HoelP 271 

Hog P 124 

Holcomh P 33S 

Honnedaga (Jocfc's) L 40 

Hope P 236 

Horn L 53 

Hornet P. (First) 457 

Hornet P. (Second) 457 

Horseshoe P. (3) 167, 191, 455 

Hot-water P 376 

Hough P 85 

Hour P. 397 

Howe's P 233 

Huckleberry L 152 

HumhugP 101 

Humes L — 

Hunter's P. (Lake Harkness) 351 

Hundred Acre P 100 

Hunt L 392 

Huntley L 396 

Hutchinson P — 

Hyer P — 



PAGE. 

HyslipP — 

r 

Independence L 71, 89 

Indian L. (3) , 130, 397,405 

Indian P. (3) 89, 375, 395 

Inman P 83 

Ingraham P 195 

Irish P. — 

Iron Mountain P — 

island P — 

Isley P — 

.T 

Jackson P 400 

Jake's P 124 

Jamie, L 351 

Jenkins' P 452 

Jenny L 392 

Jenny Creek L 185 

Jerseyfleld L 48 

Jessnp's L 403 

Jockey Bush P — 

Jock'sP 162 

Joe Indian P 159 

Johnnie Mack P 397, 398 

John's P A 156 

Johnson's P 341 

Jones' L 41 

Jones' P 237 

Jordan L 160 

It 

Reefer's P 100 

Kenyon P — 

Kettle Hole P loi 

Kibble P — 

Kiidare (Marsh) P 159, 160 

King's P — 

Kiver P 70 

KnobP 359 

Knowlton P — 

Knox P — 

3L. 

Lane's P 125 

Latham P 381 

Lead P 272 

Ledge P 271 

Lem's P — 

Lewey L 399,417 

Lewis P — 

LldaP 376 

Liger's L 137 

Llla (Smith's), L 114 

Lillian P 393 

Lily P. (2) 105,895 

Lily (Beawer) P 81 

Lily Pad P (5). . . .154, 195, 236, 340, 380 

Lime Kiln L 74 

LmcoUx (Black) T 290 

Line P — 

Little P 290 

Lizard P. (3) 366,395 

LoneP — 



INDEX. 



513 



PAGE. 

Lonesome P. (2) 255, 436 

Long L. (2) 137,436 

Long P. (20) 82, 83, 149, 161, 167, 180, 

286, 291, 338, 368, 375, 376, 395, 398, 

452, 457. 

Long P. {Big) 271 

Long P. (LiWte) (2) 245,272 

Loon L. (4) 105,231,395,396 

Loon P. (H) ...130,236,376 

Loon Hollow L 125 

Lost L. {Big Deer P.) 149, 460 

LostP 405 

Lost {Lonesome) P 144 

Lovely {Lonely) L 387 

Low L — 

Lulu L , — 

Luzerne,L 391 

Lycopodlum P — 

Macaulay P 254 

McCavenaugh P 179 

McCollumi^ 188 

McDonald P 271 

McKensle's P. {Highlana 2^.).- -254, 255 

Madawaska P I80 

Malcolm P — 

MarenusP 107 

Marsll P. (5) 179,233,375,460 

Martin P 181 

Marvina L. {Rouna Pond) 398 

Mason L 399,417 

Massawepia, L 163 

Massepla L 124, 139 

Meadiam L 186 

Meadow P — 

Medal P — 

MerrlllP... — 

Metcaif L 47 

Middle Branch L 84 

Mldward P 160 

Middle Settlement L 84 

Military P — 

Mill Creek P 395 

Miller's P 254 

Minerva P — 

Mink i< 396 

Mink P 376 

Mmk Creek P — 

Minnow P 409 

Mirror L 329 

MitcliellP's.(3) 403 

MitcHell P 436 

Mohtgan P .428 

MoMcan P .442 

Moonshine P 442 

Moose L 402 

Moose L. (Big) 73 

Moose L. (Little) 66 

Moose P. (7). ..90, 107, 246, 329, 381, 435 

Moosehead P 152 

Moose Mountain P 340 

Moreau P 389 

Morehouse L 47 

Morgan P — 



PAGE. 

Morlah P. , , 340 

Moshier P's. (4) 100 

Mosquito P 272 

Moss {Morse) L 74 

Moss L 311 

MottP 

Mouldy P 187 

Mount L 48 

Mountain P. (5)... 67, 205, 233, 240, 272 

Mountain Cascade P 85 

Mt. Joseph P 380 

Maxon P — 

Mud L. {Bog River) 456 

Mud L. (6). . . .48, 52, 130, 152, 195, 420 

Mud {Beaver) L 4I8 

Mud P. (20) 105, 106, 125, 154, 178, 179, 

181, 188, 236, 242, 265, 322, 395, 412, 

441,442. 

Mud {Lily Pad) P ns 

MU(l{Slush) P 242 

MudHoleP 86 

Mud TurtleP 271 

Murray P's. (2) 429 

Murtaugh P 83 

Muskrut P. (2) 101, 405 

]V 

Nameless P 

Narrow L. {Ackerman^s Pond) — 

Narrow L. {Long Pond) 380 

Nate's P 376 

Ne-lia-sa-ne {Albany) L 113 

Nelsons L ;iu9 

New P. (2) 291, 436 

Nichol's {Spring) P 290 

Nick's L 63 

NiCk'sP 149, 360 

Nigger P 338 

Noble's P — 

North L. (Big ; Long) 101 

Ts'orthL (Lower; Raven orShallow)loi 

Norta {Reservoir) L 41, 53 

North Branch L 48, 421 

North P. (6) 90, 366, 375 

North Jiast P — 

Norway P — 

Noxon P — 

In umher-two Line P — 

Nutmeg P 130 

O 

Ochre P 245 

Odor L 405 

Oliver P 376 

Olmstead P 155, 460 

One Acre P 

Ore-bed P !!,"875 

Oregon P. (2) 236,416 

Osgood P 237,240 

Osmore P 

oswegatchle P's 12'3'-126 

Oswegatchle L. {Long P.) 123 

Oswego P. ; 1 06 

Otter L. (3) 41,51,420 

OtterL.(Big) ' 88 



44 



514 



INDEX. 



FAOE. 

Otter L. (Little) 83 

otter P. (12) 71, 74, 107, 126, 149, 156, 
180, 233, 242, 380. 

OvenL 109 

Owen's P 338 

Owl's Head p. (a) 195,440 

Ox Bow L... 418 

Ox Bow P 399 

Ozonla (Trout)L 177 

F 

Paige P — 

Palmer Creek P's. (2) — 

Panther L. (2) 67,139 

Pantner P. (2) 83, 154, 458 

Paradox L. 359 

Paradox P 329 

Parmenter P — 

PartlowL 109,116,460 

Payne L — 

Peaked Mountain L 108 

Pember'sP — 

PenfleldP .-359 

Pepper-boxP 99 

Pharaoh, L 366 

Plckwacket P 381 

PlcoL 68 

PlgeonP 74 

Pine L. (3) 47,896,420 

PIneL. (Big) 83 

Pine L. (Little) 85 

Pine L. (Upper) 416 

PlneL. (Lower) 416 

Pine P. (4) 255,271,340 

Pine P. (Big) 241 

Pine P. (Little) (2) 44, 241 

Pine {Outm) P 167 

PlsecoL 418 

Pitcher P 83 

Pitchfork P — 

Placid, L 329 

Pleasant L. (Sageville) 415 

Pleasant L. (2) 452 

PlumadoreP 194 

PlumbleyP. 436 

PoleklUP 375 

Pond-wlth-a-rock-ln-lt 241 

Pork Barrel P 233 

Porcupine L — 

Porta-ferryL 135 

Porteous P. (Fourth Lake) 391 

Potter P 242 

Prairie L 420 

Preston P. (Lower) 351 

Preston P. (Middle) 351 

Preston P. (Upper) 351 

PrincessL 389 

Puffer P 397 

Putnam P 360 

PyramldL 359 

<^ 

Quebec P 180 

Queer L 429 

Quiet P's. (2) 138 



:r page. 

Ragged (Salmon) L 195 

Rainbow L 235 

Rainbow P 271 

Ramsey P — 

Raquette L 426 

Raquette (Lough Neagh) P 169 

RayBrookP. 255 

Raynor (FiesO P 116 

Red Horse Chain : 

Bear (Hurricane) P 110 

Beaver Dam (Goggle) P 110 

Burnt L 108 

Clear L 108 

Covey P... 109 

Mud-hole (Summit) P 109 

Nigger L 109 

Round, Little P. (Trout P.).. .109 

Salmon L ., 108 

Wltchhopple L 108 

RiceP 188 

RlchL 377 

Rily P 138 

River P. (2) 181,272 

RobbinsP. (2) — 

Robinson's P. (3) 329, 441 

Rock L. (3) 44,138,410 

Rock L. (Big) (2) 44.111 

Rock L. (Little) (2) 44, no 

Rock p. (9)63, 119, 123, 138, 160, 360, 398, 

410, 442. 

Rock P. (Little) 160 

Rogers' P. (2) 340,366 

Rogers' P. (Little) 366 

Renin's P 271 

RoundL 137 

Round (Middle Saranac) L 258 

Round (Sacandaga) L 417 

■Ronna (Bullet) V 300 

Round P. (Indian LaTce) 192 

Round P. (LaTce Kushaqua) 235 

Round P. (10) 81, 125, 322, 340, 395, 398, 

416, 462. 

RoseP 112 

RoslynP » — 

Rule'sP — 

Safford L. (Upper) 71 

SaffordL. (Lower) 71 

SaUleL 351 

Salmon (Josephine) L 119 

Salmon L. (Little) (2) 43, 118 

Salmon P 409 

Sampson P 161 

Sand L. (3) 52,98,138 

Sand P. (3) 92,342, 441 

SanfordL 351 

Saranac L. (Upper) 261 

Saranac L. (Lower) 250 

Saratoga L 387 

Sardine P 167 

Sargent P's. (3) 411 

Schroon L 360 

Scott P'S. (3) 354 

Seager'sP — 



INDEX, 



51S 



PAQB. 

Second L. {North Branch) 72 

Second L ... 391 

Second P. (2) 395, 39T 

Secret (Leonard) P 101 

Shallow L 429 

Shallow r n 

SheddL 404,428 

Sheriff's L 419 

Sherman P — 

Shingle Bay P — 

shingle Shanty L 112 

Siamele P's. (2) 39T 

Sid's P 138 

Silent P's. (2) 101 

Silver L. (2) 229,451 

Silver P. (2) lOT, 153 

Silver Dam P's. (2) 13T 

Silver LeafP 460 

Simon's P. (3) 89,272,460 

Simon's P. (Big) 452 

Simon's P. (Little) 452 

slsP 74 

Sister P's. (2) 73,120 

Skaneateles (Black) L 393 

Slang P 271 

Slender P 460 

sum P's. (3) 112 

Slim P. (Big) 441 

Slim P. (Little) 441 

SlyP 375,403 

Snag L 46 

Sommerville P. — 

sound, L 418 

South L. (Reservoir) 41, 53 

South Creek L 135,137 

south P. (7) 107, 120, 375, 439 

Speck P — 

Spectacle L's. (3) 421 

Spectacle P 340 

Spectacle P. (Upper) 242 

Spectacle P. (Lower) 242 

Spectacle P's. (3) (Stony Creek) ... 263 

Speriy P 442 

Spitfire P 243 

Split-rock P 396 

Spragut! P — 

Spring L 84 

Spring P's. (2) 98 

Spring P. (7). .188, 191, 205, 246, 271, 458 

Spring Hill P 366 

Spruce L 46 

Spruce Grouse P 460 

SpyL 419 

Square P 236 

Square P — 

Square P. (Big) 265 

Square P. (Little) 265 

Squaw L ..405 

squddle Hole; P's. (2). 137 

Star L 140 

Stephen's P 4io 

sterling P — 

Stillwater P 103 

Stockwell P — 

Stoner L's. (3) 421 

Stony L 83 



FAOK. 

Stony P. (2) 376,441 

Streeter'sL 146 

streeter'8 FlshP 138 

St. Regis L. (Upper) 289, 244 

St. Regis L. (Lower) 237,240 

St. Regis P 245 

Sturglss L — 

Sucker P 140 

Sunday P lOO 

Sunk P 125 

Sunshine, L loi 

Sunshine P 107 

Sutton P 435 

SwanP — 

Sweet's P — 

Sylvia L — 

T 

Tacalaga (Little Long ; Favm) L. . .418 

Tamarack P 149, 460 

Taylor P 230 

Tear-of-the-Clouds L. (L. Perkins). 310 

Teirt P — 

Terror L 112 

Thayer's (Aurora) L 112 

Third L 391 

Thirsty P 107 

Thirteenth P 397 

Three Pound P 457 

Thumb P 376 

Thurman's P — 

Titus, L. (Branch P.) 189 

Tide L 124 

TirrellP 409 

Toad P 460 

Tom Peck P 338 

Tooley P 152 

Town Line P 167 

Towner P — 

Train P 179 

Triangle P 154,468 

Tripp P 395 

Trout L. (4) 123, 151, 375, 421 

Trout P. (5) 76, 154, 2S6, 342, 381 

Trout (Buulton) P... ..159 

Trout (Little Rock) F 120 

TroutP. (Big) 455 

Trout P. (Little) 455 

Truman's P — 

Tule P — 

TupperL. (Big) 449 

Tupper L (Little) 463 

Turner's P 233 

Turtle (Little) P 125 

Turtle [Mtfdie) P 245 

Tuttle L 108 

Twenty-ninth P — 

Twin L. (Upper) 143 

Twin L. (Lower) 143 

Twin L's. (2) 190 

Twin P. (Upper) 125 

Twin P. (Lower) 125 

Twin P's. (2) 140 

Twin P.'s(2) 179 

Twin P's. (2) .205 

Twin P's. (2) 340 



Si6 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Twin P's. (Little) (2) 144 

Twin LUyP — 

Twin Pine P — 

Twin RockL 46 

Twin RockP 34 

TwltchellL 106 

Twltchellette P 107 

Two-story P 286 

TJ 

Unknown L. (2) 400, 429 

Unknown P 112 

UtowanaL 410 

UzP 452 



Valentine P 364 

Van De Whacker P's. (2) 342 

Vellle P — 

vialf L — 

Vroman L. (See Stoner LaJces) 420 

Walker's P — 

WaliL — 

Ward's P's. (2) — 

WarOner's P — 

WarmP 286 

Wasbburne P — 

WellerP 179 

WellerP. (Big) 266 

Weller P. (Little) 266 

Well's P 272 

West P. (6) 73, 84, 90, 393, 460 

West P. {Middle L.) 120 

West Canada Lakes : 

Blgor Middle L 403 

Brook Trout P " 

EastL " 

Moose P., (Little) " 

PUstouryL " 

Sampson L " 

Soutn L " 

West L " 

Wmtney L " 



PAGB. 

Whey P 272 

White L 51 

White P 460 

White Cedar P 352 

White LllyP 312 

White Pine P 272 

Whitney L. (See West Canada L's.)403 

Whitney P. (2) 159,181 

Whittaker L 399, 417 

Whortleherry P. (2) 83, 366 

Wide Water P 453 

Wilcox L 89 

Wild Goose P 107 

Willis P. (2) 242,376 

WllmurtL 46 

Windfall P .271 

WinkP 338 

Winnebago P 187 

Wltchhopple L. (See Red Horse Chain) 

WoK L. (3) 52, 138, 152 

Wolf P. (8) 138, 179, 180, 194, 342, 381, 
395, 409. 

Wolf P. (Big) 272 

Wolf P. (Little) 272 

Woodbury P 272 

woodhull L 51 

WoodhuU L. (Little) 53 

Wood's {Sylvan) L 105 

Woodwardla P 98 

Woodworth ( Woodruff) p 380 

Worcester P — 

Worden'sL 48 

Wordsworth L — 

Wormwood P's. (3) 83 

Wyman L — 



Yellow L. {North Creelc Chain) 101 

Zack P 380 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



Accidents. 497 

Adirondack News 377 

Adirondack Park 11, 465 

Adirondack Springs 219 

Adirondack Tribe 12 

Adlrondacks as a Winter Resort. . .250 

Advertisements 523 

Annals of Lake Bonaparte 128 

Appendix 523 

Banished for Ufe 198 

Battle of Fort Tlconderoga. . . .215, 216 
" " Lake Champlam .... 215, 221 

" " LakeGeorge 369 

" " North Elba 327 

" " Plattsburg 212 

'* " Saratoga 388 

"Blazed Line," The 63 

Bluff Point 224 

Buoy, The 55 



Camp Life, Outfit, Expenses, &C...466 

Camp Rations 482 

Camp Rules 477 

Carry, The 41 

Chase, The 488 

Clinton Prison 228 

Deer, and "deering" 488 

"Deserted Village," The 343 

Devil's Pulpit, The 451 

Discovery of Lake George 371 

" " " champlaln 213 

Dragon of the Forest 164 

Drowned Lands, The 169, 448 

Essex Co. Republican 286 

Fishing 55, 471, 480 

Forest Influence on Climate and 

Streams 22 

Fort Crown Point 218 

*' St. Frederick 218 



INDEX. 



517 



PAGB. 

Fort Tlconderoga 215 

" William Henry. 375 

Game Laws. 491 

Great Windfall, The 162 

Guides 484 

Hotel Directory 500 

ice Age, The 164 

Indian Carry .......262 

Indian Clearing {Canachagala) 67 

Indian Clearhig 404 

Insects 480 

Insect Preparations 4.4 

Iroquois, or "Six Nations" 12, 385 

Isola Bella 360 

John Brown's Grave 3'28 

John Brown's Tract 61 

Lesser Wilderness, The 92 

Lily, White Water .81 

Loon, The 378 

Lost Prince, The 197 



PAOB. 

Lost in the Woods. 493 

Macomb's Purchase — 61 

Manor of Wlllsborough 221 

Natural Bridge, (Indian River). ... 128 
Natural Bridge, (Schroon River) . . .394 

Old Forge 61,66 

Old MlUtary Road 112, 164, 417 

Old State Road 127, 358 

Pitcher Plant, The 82 

Pleasures of Boating 487 

RockRegglo 222 

Rogers' Escape 374 

Sabbath Day Pt 374 

Sixteen-Mile Level I80 

South Meadows 325 

State Dam 193 

Trout ; a 52 "pounder" 236 

Tug Hill {Lesser Wilderness) 92 

West Canada Creek 42 

1 Woodcraft 493 



MOUNTAINS. 

ALTITUDE ABOVE THB SEA OP THE MOST NOTED AND IMPORTANT MOUNTAINS 

IN THB ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS ; MOSTLY MEASURED UNDER 

THB SUPERINTENDENCE OF VBRPLANOK OOLVIN. 

HBIOHT. 
FEBT. FAGB. 

Discovery 1,582 290 

Dlx's Peak 4,916 342 

Edgar ( Approx) 2,000 154 

Everett (Kempshall) . . .2,500(Prox.)445 

Giant of the Valley 4,530 295 

Goodenow (Approx.) . . .3,000 377 

Gore 3,539 397 

Gothics 4,744 309 

Graves' 2,345 .458 

Gray's Peak 4,902 310 

Hamilton 2,000(Prox.) 48 

Hamim 276 

Haystack 4,919 SI2 

" Little 4,766 312 

Henderson 3,000(Prox.)35i 

Hoffman 3,727 367 

Holmes 2,121 416 

Hopkins' Peak 3,136 295 

Hurricane Peak 3,763 289 

Indian Face 2,536(Prox.)308 

Iron 2,ooo(Prox.)154 

Jerseyfleld .....2,323 48 

Joseph 3,000(Prox.)380 

Long Pond 2,268 318 

Long Tom (Silver Lake)2,604 457 

Lyon or Lion 3,809 228 

Macomb 4,371 293 

Marcy (Tahawus) 5,844 358 

Matteson 2,ooo(Prox.) 48 

Matumbla (Blue) 2,500 163 

Maxham 2,510 397 

McDonough 3,800(Prox.)276 

McGregor 1,200 389 

MclQtyre 5,113 363 

McKensle 3,789 255 

Morns 8,ooo(Prox.)463 



FEET. PAGE. 

Adams 3,500(PrOX.)295 

Ampersand (Moose) . . . .3,432 259 

Andrew 3,216 351 

Arab 453 

Averlll Peak 3,700 229 

AzuTe(Blue;St,Regl8R.)2,582 178 

Bald (Oswegatchle P's).2,000(Prox.)l26 

Bald (Crown Point) . . . .2,302 219 

Bald Peak (Moriah) .... 2,120 295 

Balm of Gllead 1,953 376 

Bartlett 3,715 309 

Basin 4,905 309 

Bassett 276 

Baxter's 295 

Bear ("Mt. Jo") 326 

Big Meadow 1,900 45 

Bllck 2,661 373 

Blue (EMMONS) 3,825 407 

Blue Ridge 3,000(Prox.)340 

BoOtBay ..2,531. .... .268 

Bouquet l,600(Prox.)289 

Boreas 3,726 309 

Bulwagga 1,260 219 

Burnt... 2,121 416 

Camel's Hump 3,54S. . . . . .295 

Cat 2,336(Prox.)l55 

Catamount (Thl-Pac) . .3,129 230 

Clark 276 

Cliff .4,000(Prox.)295 

Clinton (So. Mclntyre) .4,938 353 

Cobble HllL 1,936 289 

Colden (McMartln) 4,753 356 

Colvm.. 4,142 309 

Crane 3,289 395 

DeBar 3,011 186 

Devil's Ear 3,903 296 



5i8 



INDEX. 



HEIOHT. 
FEET. PAGE. 

Mooseliead 2,ooo(Prox.)i62 

Nipple Top 4,684 342 

North River 3,T58 343 

Norway (Terry) 2,666 277 

Norton's Peak 2,200(Prox.)205 

Owl's Crest 2,200( Prox. )195 

Owl's Head 2,826 440 

Pantlier 2,600(Prox.)402 

Pliaraoli 3,700(Prox.)366 

Pitch Off 2,700(PrOX.)318 

Poke O' Moonshine 2,i7i 293 

Porter 295 

Potash Kettle 1,735 391 

Pratt's (Smith's) 2,273 . . .115 

Ragged 4,163 256 

Rand l,30T 228 

Raven 1,982 ., . . .289 

Redfleld 4,688 3il 

Ressagonla (Saw Teeth)3,000(Prox.)309 



HKIOHT. 
FEET. PAGE. 
Rift 2,141 416 

Saddle Back 4,536 309 

Santanonl (St. Anthony)4,644. 351 

Sentinel 295 

Seward 4,384 351 

Seymour 3,928 256 

Skylight 4,890 309 

Slide, 3,000(Prox.)295 

Snowy(Squaw'sBonnet)3.903 399 

speculator. 3,041 416 

St. Louis (Bald) 2,295 68 

St. Regis 2,888 242 

Street 3,300(Prox.)353 

Wallface 3,893 353 

Wallface Precipice l,a55 353 

Whiteface 4,872 274 

Woli-jaws 4,000(Prox.)295 

Wood Hill 1,151 289 

Wrlght(NorthMcIntyre)4,000 353 



PEOPLE. (Also See HERMITS.) 



Abercromhle, Gen 215, 375 

Agan, P. H 98 

AgaSSlZ 449 

Alexander, RohertC 40 

Allen, Ethan 216 

Amherst, Lord 216 

Arnold, Benedict 

Arnold, Otis 

Averill, H. K 



Bailey, Isaac H 328 

Barse, Mills W 40 

Bartlett, Virgil 258 

Beach, the pioneer .427 

Beaujolais, Duke de 123 

Beede, Phlneas 303 

Beede, Smith 304 

Benedict, Prof. G. W 381 

Benton, CoL Zebulon H 132 

Blnney, Amos 449 

Boardman, Wm. H 40 

Boon, Garret 57 

Bonaparte, Joseph 128 

Bonaparte, Napoleon 129 

Brant,Joseph(2Via^erMlaneflrwa)165, 369 

Brantlngham, Thos 79 

Bremer, Fredrlka 277 

Brown, Frederick 327 

Brown, John of Ossawatomle 326 

Brown, John of Providence 61 

Brown, Oliver 327 

Brown, Watson 327 

Brunei, Mark Isambert 122 

"Buntllne, Ned" {E. Z. C. Jiiason)A10 

Burgoyne, Gen'l 216, 388 

Burnham, Fred. G 40 

Butler, CoL B. C 386 

Burr, Aaron 61 



O 



CaldweU, James 372 

Candee, Dr. J. Willis 102 

Cannon, LeGrand B 328 

Carruth, Wm. Herbert 328 

Champlain, Samuel de 213 

Chase, Ferd. W 231 

Chazy,Sleur 228 

Chittenden, S. B 328 

Clanin, Horace C ,.828 

Clark, Dr. John 382 

Clarke, Robert 344 

Cleveland, President 267 

Clews, Henry 328 

Colden, David C 350 

Colvln, Verplanck> .445, 459 

Cooper, J. Fenlmore 371 

Constable, William 61, 122 

Cowden, Elliot C 328 

Craft, Ephraim 96 

Curtis, George Wm. 36 

Dawson, George 169 

Des Jardlns, Simon 122 

Devlllers, Gen'l 371 

DeWltt, Wm. G 40 

Downie, Commodore 212 

"Drld," the Indian 62 

Durant, Dr. Thos. Clark 411 

Dyer, Rev 284 

Ely, Dr. W. W 260 

Emerson 449 

Prof. Ebenezer. 4io 



Fay, Christie R 184 

Fenton, Charles 97 

Fenton, Orrm 96 



INDEX. 



519 



PAGE. 

Fernow, Prot B. E 39, 105 

Fields, Kate 328 

Flower, Governor 254 

Forest Commission 427 

Fo8ter,Nat 62 

Fredenburg, Count Chas. de 211 

Freeman, Mrs. Fanny 499 

Fulton, Robert 410 



Gerster, Madame 432 

Gllliland, William -..220 

J GUman, Jolin Taylor 382 

! Goodelle, W. P 102 

Grant, Gen 389 

Greenleaf, James 61 

I H 

Hammond, s. H 195 

Harper, Alexander R 40 

Harper, Henry 8. 40 

I Harrison, Richard 184 

Harte, Jessamy 473 

I Hathorn, Chauncey 431 

Hayden, S. C 102 

Headley, Hon. Joel T 65 

Held, Ernst 72, 408 

Henderson, David 344, 355 

I Hendrick, "King," 369, 392 

I Hepburn, Hon. A. B 171 

Herreshofl, Chas. F 61 

Hlgley, Judge Warren 40 

I Hill, W.W 458 

' Hoar, Judge 449 

Hoffman, Chas. Fenno 358 

Holmes, John 449 

Holt, Harvey 313 

Hooper, Prof. F. W 320 

Hough, Hon. Franklin B 128 

Howe, Lord 216 

Howe, Dr. Bates 449 

Howland, Judge H. E 40 

Hudson, Hendrick 213 

Humes, Warren .140 

Hurlburt, "Dick" 58 



Ireland, Col. A. L. 



,361 



Johnson, Sir John 158, 165, 392, 427 

Johnson, Sir WUUam 371, 384, 414 

Johnson, "Mother" 446 

Judson, Chas. G 328 



' Kalm, the Swede 218 

I Keese, John 286 

Kellogg, Hon. Orlando 288 



LaFarge, John I3i 

Lee, Wm. H 328 

LeRay, J. S. (Compte de C7iaumont)128 
Livingston, PhlUp 61 



PAOK. 

Lockwood, Rev. Henry R 102 

Loomls, Dr. A. L 249 

LosRlDg, Benson J 858 

Louis— Philippe, King 123 

Lowell 449 

Lyons, Hon. Caleb 78, 131 

Lyons, LymanR 62 

Macomb, Gen. Alexander 212 

Macomb, Alexander. 61 

McCalla, Clifford P 277 

McCoUum, A. C 188 

McCormick, Daniel 61 

McCrea, Jane 369 

McDonough, Commodore 212 

Mclntyre, Archibald 350 

McKee, James 152 

McMartIn, Duncan 350 

Martin, Chas. E 336 

Martin, D. R 328 

Martin, Wm.F 252 

Metcalf, Col 47 

Miller, Hon. Warner 40 

Mills, AG 40 

Meacham, Thomas 186 

M endonca, Salvador de 300 

Monspensler, Duke de 123 

Montcalm, Marquis de 216 

Montgomery, GenT. 221 

Moody, Harvey 456 

Moody, Martin M 450 

Mooers, Gen Benj 198 

Morris, Gouvemeur 128 

Moshier, John Q 100, 102 

Moshler, W. D 102 

Murphy, Thomas. 328 

Murray, W.H.H 480 

Natanis, the Indian 438 

NlchoUs, Rev. Dr. S. J 40 

Northrup, Judge A. J 471 

Nye, William B 320 

O 

Olliver, Esq 86 

I» 

Pahud, Hon. Joseph 132 

Parkman, Francis 371 

Peebles. Chillus D 93 

Parmelee, A. B. & Son 192 

Pharoux, Pierre 122 

Phelps, Orson S 312 

Picquet, Abbe Francis 172 

Pilsbury, Capt. L. D 403 

Pocahontas, the Indian Princess.. .132 

Plumbley , Joel 437 

Plumbley, John E 437 

Pratt, Judge Daniel 115 

Prevost, Sir George 212 

Putnam, A,E 386 



i 



520 



INDEX. 



^^ PAGE. 

Raymond, Benjamin 158 

Read, Dr 261 

Remsen, Henry 49 

RWnelander, PWUp 416 

Richardson, R. J 102 

Ripley, George H 40 

Robbins, Geo. A 328 

Robertson, Archibald 350 

Rogers, Maj. Robert 374 

Romeyn, Dr. J. R 259 

Rushton, J. H 158 

IS 

Sabattls, Lewis Elijah 345 

Sabattis, Mitchell 43T 

Sabattls, "Capt." {"Qii£Dec")..A80, 438 

Scarona, the Indian Maiden. 360 

Schultz, J. s 328 

Scott, Robert G 322 

Seaman, Dr. Valentine 383 

Sherman, Isaac 328 

Sherman, Kev. John 34 

Sherman, Gen. Richard U 56 

Sigourney, Mrs 26 

Short, James 62 

Shurtleff, R. M 300 

Skene, Maj. Philip .390 

Smith, Chas. A 328 

Smith, "Den" and wife 176 

Smith, Gerrlt 327 

Smith, "Paul" 288 

Smith, R.H 102 

snell,S. H 138 

SneU, ''Sid" 138 

Snyder, O.L 40 

Stephens, W. Hudson 96 

St. Clair, Gen 216 

Steuben, Baron 50 

Stillman, W.J 449 

Stone, Wm. L 388 

Stoner, Mr. 421 



PAGE. 

Street, AlfredB 354 

Suikowskl, Prince 135 

T 

Talt, A. F 440 

Thorpe, T. B 69 

Toucey, Sinclair 328 

Townsend, Dr. Richard 150 

Trudeau, Dr, E. L 289, 249 

Tupper, Surveyor 450 

V 

Van Corlear, Arent 214 

Van Shoultze, the Polander 172 

Vanuxem, Prof. Lardner 66 

TV- 
Wales, Salem H 328 

Ward, G. C 328 

Ward, Dr. S. B 261 

Wardner, J. M 235 

Washburn, A 233 

Watson, Elkanah .223 

Watson, Wlnslow C 223 

Webb, Dr. W. seward 104, 422 

Wells, Frank H 102 

Wells, Hon. J. E 414 

Weston, Hon. Warren F 319 

Williams, Col. Ephraim 369 

Williams, Rev. Eleazer ("27ie Lost 

Prince'') 19T 

Williams, John E 328 

Willis, iN. P 371 

Wilson, Jas. Grant 117 

Wood, the pioneer 427 

Wood, Reuben 471 

Woodman, Horatio... 449 

Worden, t^eo. H 43 

Wright, "UncleJock" 40 

Wyman, Dr. Jeffries 449 

Wynant,A.H 300 



PRIVATE PRESERVES. 



PAGE. 

Ad'k Club Preserve, 130,000 acres. 350 

Ad'k League Club 179,ouo " 36 

Ad'k Mountain Reserve, 26,000 " 305 

Ad'k Preserve Ass'tion . . .4,800 " 396 

Beaver River Club 10,000 " 101 

Bouquet River Preserve 

Brandreth Preserve 24,000 " 119 

Catllu Lake Preserve 381 

Chlldwold Park 5,300 " 163 

Connell Preserve 7,000 " 149 

Hamilton Park 32,000 " 464 

Harewood Park 15,000 " 153 

Humes' Tract 30,000 " 139 

Hurd's Tract 75,000 " 175 



PAGE. 

Kildare Club 4,000 acres 160 

Litchfield Presei*ve 9,000 " 464 

Long Lake Tract 4,000 " 444 

Matteson's Mt. Home 3,000 " 45 

Me-Ha-Sa-Ne Park 188,000 " 104 

Oswegatchle Park 1,000 " 123 

Parmelee Tract 195 

Pickhardt's Preserve 366 i 

Ragged Lake Club 195 

Ray Brook Preserve 2,000 " 255 

Rogers' Tract 75,000 " 276 

Santanonl Preserve 11,000 " 379 

SunmerPark 431 

Vilas Preserve 50,000 '« 183 



INDEX. 



521 



RAILROADS. 



PAGE. 

Adirondack .395 

Adirondack & St. Law 185, 268, 422 

Ausable Brancn 230, 276 

Carthage & Adirondaok 127, 141 

Central Vermont 184 

cnateaugay 231 

Crown Point & Hudson River 359 

Delaware & Hudson 217, 288, 390 

. Fonda, Johnstown & Glov'lle..413, 414 



PAGE. 

Keeseville, Ausahle C. & L. C 288 

Lake Champlain & Morlah 339 

N. Y. Central & Hudson River 424 

Northern Adirondack 175 

Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain . . .184 

Rome, Watertown & O 25, 80, 424 

Saranac Branch 244,247 

Saranac & Lake Placid 247, 331 

West Shore 413,424 



RIVERS. 



I. Adirondack 343 

; A usable 272,273, 283,354 

Beaver 103 

Black 51 

Bog 455 

Bouquet 288 

Boreas 312 

Cedar 402 

Chateaugay. 200 

Chazy 228 

Chub 327 

Cold 445 

Deer 188 

Goodenow 380 

Grass 167 

Hudson 354, 381, 397 

Independence 87 

Indian 398 

ROUTES PROM 

I Prom Alder Creek Station 51 

" Amsterdam 413 

" Boonville. 57 

" Canton 157 

" Carthage... 126 

" Castorland 121 

" Chateaugay 199 

" Crown Point 358 

" DeKalb Junction 152 

" Fonda 4!l3 

" Fort Edward 368 

" Glendale 86 

" Gouverneur 149 

" Herkimer 422 

" Little Falls 421 

" Lowvllle 91 

" Lyon's Falls. 78 

" Malone 184 



Indian 128 

Jessup's 417 

Jordan 16O 

Marlon 410 

Moose 59 

Newcomb 379 

Opalescent 357 

Oswegatchie 153 

Raquette 426 

Red 405 

Rock 400 

Sacandaga 415 

St. Lawrence 199 

St. Regis 182 

Salmon 192 

Saranac 211 

Schroon 340, 367 

GATEWAYS. 

From Martinsburg Station 91 

" Massena Springs 173 

" Molra 175 

" Ogdensburg 172 

" Plattsburg 211 

" Port Henry 339 

" Port Kent 277 

" Port Leyden 77 

" Potsdam 158 

" Prospect 35 

" Remsen 49 

" Rouse's Point 209 

" Saratoga Springs 382 

' ' Tlconderoga ( Fort) Sfis 

" TrentonPalls 26 

Utica 424 

" Westport 288 



ROUTES, 

Big Moose Lake 70, 106 

Brandreth's L. Irom L. Lila 119 

Chain Lakes 380, 400 

Clear, Lake (Adirondack Lodge) . . .323 

Elk Lake ■. 311,341 

Indian Pass 326, 352 

Long Lake from Newcomb 380 

" '' " Raquette Lake. 434-436 

Mt. Marcy 310, 325, 341, 354 

North Branch (Moose River) 70 

Paul Smith's from Meacham Lake. . 189 
" " " St. Regis River.. 180 

" " to Upper Saranac L. . .243 



INTERIOR. 

Paul Smith's from Lower SaranacL.25T 

Raquette L. " Lake LUa . .119-121 

" " L. Saranac L. 257-262 

" " Blue Mt. Lake... 410 

Shallow L. from Raquette Lake. . . .429 

South Branch (Moose River) 66 

St. Regis River 177-180 

Tupper LaKes from Lake Lila. .lie 
" " ^' Cranberry Lake. 156 

" " " U. Saranac Lake. 270 

" " " Forked Lake.... 435 

" " " Long Lake 443 

Upper Iron Works 342 



I 



45 



522 



INDEX. 



VILLAGES AND HAMLEITS.* (See Routes fkom Gateways. 



PAGE. 

Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium.. 248 
Adirondack Upper Iron Works. ... .343 

Alden Lair (Boreas River) 376 

Alden Creek Corners 51 

Alpine. 131 

Ausable Forks 272 

Braver Falls 121 

Belfort 121 

Bellengertown 49 

Benson 412 

Benson Mines 143 

Black Brook 230 

Bloomlngdale 246 

Boreas River 340 

Brandon 175 

Caldwell 372 

Ctiesterrown 394 

Clarksboro 152 

Clayburg 229 

Colton 158 

ConkllngvlUe. 393 

Copentiagen 95 

Croghan 121 

Dannemora 227 

Dayansville 96 

Devereaux 421 

Dickinson Center 175 

Dodge's Landing 174 

Dolgevllle , 86 

D aane 196 

Edwards 150 

Elizabetniown 288 

Elslnore 229 

Fairfield 421 

Fine 145 

Forestport 51 

Fort Covington 199 

Fowler 150 

Franklin Falls 230 

FuUervllle 150 

Glens Fa Us 369 

Glo versville 414 

Grant 36 

Greig 86 

Hadley 390 

Hailesboro 1 50 

Hammondsvllle 359 

Harrisville 135 

Hermon 152 

Hope Center 413 

Indian Lake 397 

Indian River 397 

Jay (Upper & Lower) 276 

jayville 140 

Jock's Pond 162 

Jonnstown 414 

Keene Center 316 

Keene Valley. 295 

Keeseville 286 

Long Lake 437 

Luzerne 390 



FAOE. 

Lyon Mountain 209 

Lyonsdale 78 

Massena 173 

Merrlllsvllle 235 

Minerva 396 

Mineville 339 

Moose River 59 

Morehouse vine 421 

Natural Bridge 128 

NaumMrg 121 

Newcomb 377 

New Russia 288 

Newton's corners 415 

North Creek 396 

North Elba 326 

North Hudson 288 

North River 397 

Northville 414 

Norway 421 

Norwood 174 

Number Four 91 

Ohio 36 

Old Forsre , 66 

Olmsteadvllle 376 

Oswegatchle 140 

PartrldgeviUe 86 

Petersburg 229 

Plseco 419 

Pitcalm 135 

Placid. Lake 329 

Poland 424 

PottersvlUe 394 

Riverside 396 

Rogers' {AusaUe Station) 230, 276 

Russell 152 

Sigeville. 414 

Salisbury 421 

Santa Clara 175 

Saranac 229 

Saranac Forks 229 

Saranac Lake 247 

Schenectady 385 

schroon Lake 360 

Schroon River 340 

Smith's Landing 96 

south Colton 159 

Spring Cove 176 

St. Regis Falls 175 

Tahawus 342 

Thurman 390 

Trenton 34 

Tupper Lake 169 

Union Falls 229 

Vermontvllle 235 

Watson 91 

Wellstown 413 

Whitehall 390 

White Lake Corners 51 

Wilmington 273 

Wilmurt Corners 36 



* The most of these villages are merely passed through en route from the 
Gateways. 



APPENDIX. 



AND PLEASURE SEEKERS 

WILL FIND THE 

EoDie, Watertof fl k Mmim 1 1 

TO BE PRE-EMINENTLY 

The Route for Tourist Tra.vel, 



And it was constructed with that end In view. 



IT Is the great highway and favorite route for f ashlonahle pleasure travel. 
It reaches direct, and hy Its own lines, all of the Summer Pleasure Eesorts In 
Northern New York, the Western and Northwestern Adirondacks, and along the 
St. Lawrence River, and hy Its direct and Immediate connections furnishes 
the shortest and most deslrahle route to the Lower St.' Lawrence, the Saguenay, 
the White Mountains, the Sea-shore Eesorts of New England and the Maritime Provinces. 
On March 14th, 1891, the Rome, Watertown & Ogdenshurg R. R. was 
leased In perpetuity to the New York Central & Hudson River R. R., " The 
World's Greatest and Only Foar-Track Ralhoad." The lessee company, ap- 
preciating the value of its new acquisition, and its capahlllty of hecoming 
the largest and most Important summer resort and tourist traffic route In 
America, proceeded at once, with its usual enterprise, to raise to trunk line 
standard that portion of the newly acquired property patronized by the 
summer travel. This has heen accomplished hy hard work and the outlay 
of a large sum of money— nearly one million dollars— in permanent improve- 
ments and betterments, notably the relaying of the railway of the Kastern 
Division, "The Popular Black River Route," with the heaviest steel rails 
used north of the Trunk Lines, renewing and re-ballasting its road-bed, 
placing new ties and increasing the number of same per mile, replacing 
bridges with strong new ones of steel and iron, re-ballasting and improving 
the Syracuse Northern Line, and making various other Improvements on the 
R. W. & O. system, all of which enables the company to inaugurate a new 
era in Northern New York passenger train service. The improvement in 
equipment and service has kept pace with that of the road-bed and railway. 
Standard locomotives, capable of hauling the heaviest passenger trains at 
high speed, have been added to the motive power. The perfection and com- 
fort of the new passenger equipment will elicit the admiration of its patrons. 
New trains, the counterpart in make-up of the famous Limited trains on the 
New York Central & Hudson River R. R., will run on fast schedule time and 
without stops from Syracuse and from Utica to Clayton for the Thousand 
Islands, the St. Lawrence River and Canada pleasure travel, also to Norwood for 
the Adirondack Mountains, the White Mountains, Maine and New England sea-coast travel. 



k 



APPENDIX. 

Eoifi, Watertowa k MnMi Eallmi, 

N. Y. C. & H. E. B. K. Co., L.esHee. 

THE ONLY ALL RAIL ROUTt 

TO 

TifE TWusMB mimm 

" The LoveUest River Eesort in the World." 



THE RtVER ST> UWREM CE 

From the Thousand Islands, Cape Vincent, or Clayton, N. Y., to the Gulr, 
offers more attractions than any other traveled route in the world. Ttiv. 
route embraces the far-famed Thousand Islands, the marvelous Rapids, the 
awe-inspiring Saguenay, together with matchless scenery and stately Can- 
adian cities. The many charming pleasure resorts, including the favorite 
Canadian sea-hathing resorts, and the wonderful Ashing grounds near Cipe 
Vincent and Clayton, and again helow Quebec, present enticements not to 
be found elsewhere. Throngs of people from different parts of the we Id 
make this tour every summer ; and now that a tour in Canada ranks next 
in fashionable favor to a European voyage, the tour of the St. Lawrence 
has become the popular summer trip for the American people. The most 
elaborate description that can be written of the River St. Lawrence caL,aot 
convey a proper conception of its attractions. 

Business and professional men, tourists and pleasure seekers, scientists, 
scholars, sportsmen— in fact, persons of every class and walk in life, are 
gratified beyond measure with this great river. Unlike most tours, th? re- 
turning portion of this one is crowded with attractions, offering the Oce^u 
mo, the Gulf; the mountains, lakes and beaches of New England; or Me 
rivers, lakes, ahd fashionable watering-places of New York. In former years 
the routes to this charming region from Niagara Falls were very indirect, 
necessitating long delays, tedious transfers, and midnight changes, or (v!-e 
the unpleasant lake trip. 

The continued demand for a short line induced the managers o 
Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad to extend their line to the Tl ■ 
and Islands, Under the new management, in connection with the gi i 
four-track New York Central & Hudson River R. R., this line now offers 
superior advantages to the tourist which will increase the popularity 1' '.JiS 
long enjoyed as the best and only delightful route to the Thousand Isl "s. 
During the summer season this line is thronged with tourists, and justr , - 
it earned the title of the favorite route for fashionable pleasure travel. 



.^^-^ 



THg THOUSAND ISLAHDS. 

SCATTEKED In prodigal profusion along the noble St. Lawrence Eiver, 
from Cape Vincent and Clayton to Alexandria Bay and beyond— the 
channel in some places being twelve miles broad— are the island gems more 
than 1800 in number, known collectively as the Thousand Islands. They 
vary in size from a small mass of rock seemingly burdened to lift its bosky 
crest above the clear, deep water, to picturesque islands miles in extent, 
overspread with a rich and luxuriant vegetation. Nearly every island* large 
or small, is the pleasant summer home of its fortunate owner. The many 
beautiful cottages, of quaint and elegant design, or the more pretentious 
and stately castle-like structures of enduring stone, resplendent in gay 
streamers and pennants of every color, add to the natural loveliness of the 
scene an attractiveness that is bewitching, yet indescribable. The refined 
taste which has transformed these Island wilds into pleasant haunts is no- 
where more noticeable than in the many provisions for comfort and enjoy- 
ment which surround these summer homes, and make them pictures of 
delight and real contentment. The whole insular region is one of incom- 
parable beauty, and just the place one seeks for rest and refreshment during 
the warm days of summer. 

Laved by the clear, blue waters of the St. Lawrence, and fanned by gentle 
breezes which come laden with the balmy odors of balsam, pine and cedar, 
the islands are at all times delightfully cool and refreshing, and invite one 
to enjoy, pe)^ otium, the rare pleasures they offer. A spirit of rest and free- 
dom from all care seems to pervade the place, while the charm and fascinat- 
ing beauty of the scene give it the semblance of a spectacle in fairyland or 
the beautiful vision of a dream ; unlike a dream, however, the charm remains 
and the delights are real. As a resort, the Thousand Islands grow more 
popular every year, and the many Improvements made each season have 
added so much to the natural attractions of the islands that the transformed 
scene now appears more like the creation of romance. Every isle and danc- 
ing ripple pulsates with the breath of true poetry, and only a poet should 
sing the praises of the Thousand Islands. 

The scene does not close with the wane of day. As the setting sun gilds the 
nestling isles with his parting ray, and the lengthening shadows of evening 
slowly enfold all in gentle embrace, the glow of lights from one island is 
soon followed by the bright response from another, then another— each 
island marked by a distinctive device arranged in brightly colored Ughts 
peculiar to itself— until the illuminated spectacle rivals even Venice herself 
in the splendor of a carnival dress. 

Sporting in all its variety, both with the rod and the gun, is unsurpassed, 
the excellence and variety of the game yielding the tourist, as well as the 
sportsman, rare returns. To the invalid and to all afflicted with hay-fever, 
the pure, salubrious and Invigorating atmosphere renders this place of resort 
a delightful sanitarium. The hotels at Cape Vincent, Clayton, Round Island, 
Thousand Island Park, Westminster Park, Grinnell Island and Alexandria 
Bay, are new and modern in all their appointments, and offer accommoda- 
tions equal to any at the oldest and most frequented pleasure resorts. The 
conventionalities of ultra-fashionable resorts are not imperative in their 
demands here, and a sojourn of a few weeks or months among the Thousand 
Islands wUl be a season of pure enjoyment and refreshment. 



APPENDIX. 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

TRAHSPORTATIOH CO., 

AND 



STE-A.^s^BO-A.rr CO 

OFFER THE MOST 

Delightful Excursions | 

Of any Line of Summer Travel on the Continent, 
AND THEIR 

ELEGANT AND COMMODIOUS STEAMERS 



PASS IN SIGHT OF SOME OF THE 



GRANDEST SCENERY 

And most noted Historical Points in America, 

Land at many. Prominent Resorts, and give the Tourist an opportunity 
to visit the Forests, Streams, Lakes and Mountains of the 



^►^tE 



Mmmmmm mmm 

GEORaE RUSHLOW, 

Gen. Manager, Burlington, Vt. 



APPENDIX. 




APPENDIX, 



GREAT OPPORTUNITY 

FOR 

Capitalist®, IVIining Companies, 
Lumbermen or Sportsmen. 



THIRTY-TWO SQUARE MILES, OR 



-OF THE- 



Choicest Timber and Mineral Lands 



-IN THE- 



ADIRONDACKS! 

JLRE NOW OPPEEED POR LEASE ON PAVOEABLE 
TEEMS. 



This valuable property comprises the Catalan Forge (never lit) on the 
■Grass River, near Cranberry Lake, with all its necessary buildings, and 
a magnificent forest of various kinds of trees, including Pine, Hemlock, 
Spruce and hard wood, many of which are suitable for fine furniture. 

On this vast tract, in the town of Oakham, four miles east of Cran- 
berry Lake, is Iron Mt., which is composed almost entirely of pure 
Magnetic Iron Ore. Stumpage is so low in this section that charcoal 
burners will contract to burn at 6 cts. per bushel. 

I will lease these thirty-two square miles to responsible parties, con- 
struct a blistering furnace, also crucibles, so that fine steel for axes, tools, 
files, cutlery, etc. , can be produced cheaper than at any other accessible 
place in the world. For further particulars address, 

JOSEPH M. STRONG, 

1190 MADISON AVE., NEW YORK. 



APPENDIX. 



ralMllfi Tiffllier aM Miaeral Projerty 



-IN THE- 



ADIRONDACKS 



r^OI^ S-A-IjE OI^ IL1E.A.SE. 



THIS TRACT OF LAND CONTAINS 

1 5 O Sq -xjLSbJOG 1s/L±Xg& 

OR 

96,000 ACRES, 

Situated in Great Tract 2, Macomb's Purchase, in 
following towns : 

I. Sherwood, 2. Oakham, 3. Atherton, 4. Harewood, 

5. Jamestown, 6. Percefield, 7. Granshaw, 

and 13 and 15 adjoining on Tract 3. 

I Watered by Grass and Raquette Rivers and Cranberry Lake and 
many lovely lakes and streams besides. In this tract exist many 

IRON ORE BEDS OF THE RICHEST aUALITY, 

and it is mostly covered with the choicest trees of the woods. More 
than enough could be realized on the pines alone — converted into 
lumber — to meet the price of the purchase, while there would then 
remain a dense and beautiful forest. On the borders, included in this 
tract, is considerable good farm- land. 

To Capitalists and Miriing Companies who would invest money which 
would pay four-fold, to lumbermen who would quadruple their invest- 
ment, and to sportsmen who desire to secure an admirable private park 

\ and preserve, such an opportunity has seldom been offered. // will not 

\^be sold in parcels. For full information, address, 

JOSEPH M. STRONG, 

1190 MADISON AVE., NEW YORK, 



.\ 



APPENDIX 




R '06 



II 






a 



iniili 



A 



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